hikes

PUERTO Rico is known for salsa, pina coladas and street parties.

But following Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny’s performance at the Super Bowl half-time show this year, interest in the Caribbean island — which is a US territory — has surged.

And on my first visit, it didn’t take me long to realise what all the fuss was about.

Landing in capital San Juan, I made a beeline for Bad Bunny’s favourite neighbourhood, Santurce, a hip and arty spot littered with bright and enormous murals — the biggest of which stretches ten storeys high.

In the day, the streets here are peaceful, with quiet cafes spilling on to the pavement and a well-known elderly man selling flowers to passers-by.

Don’t let that fool you, though.

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The scene completely changes come Friday and Saturday nights, when locals cram into the many bars and party on the streets to live music.

It’s a great spot for a boogie and for those who love to let their hair down.

But if, like me, you’re not much of a party animal, you might prefer the region of Ciales, around 40 miles to the west, which offers sweeping, unspoilt countryside.

Instead of late nights stomping until sunrise, this area is all about early mornings and waterfall hikes.

You’ll never struggle to find a decent coffee to fuel those dawn starts, either.

After all, Puerto Rico is famous for producing some of the best in the world.

You’ll be able to pick up a brew anywhere, with makeshift stalls perched on the side of the road and halfway up mountains.

I even found one suspended from a treehouse. Called FinCafe, it serves its brews with a twist.

How does a ginger and cinnamon flat white sound?

FinCafe also offers tours of its plantation across the road. Book with Sofrito Tours (sofritotourspr.com).

Heading even further west, out of the countryside and towards the coastline, I stumbled upon some of the most beautiful seaside spots, including Crash Boat Beach.

Once a military site (hence the name) this shore is now a gorgeous stretch of white sand bordering clear blue seas.

Be prepared to jump off the fishing pier if you visit. It’s a cherished tradition here.

If you are keen to have a go at surfing then make your way to Jobos Beach, a few miles along the coast from Crash Boat.

Those who are new to the sport can book a private or group lesson with local group MOKU (mokusurfshop.com).

The staff are incredibly patient.

They even pushed my board against the might of the ocean to try and help me catch a wave.

You’ll find that all the exertion will build up quite an appetite — and lunch at the surrounding coastal restaurants is the best way to refuel.

I became very partial to a Medalla Light beer or an Ocean Lab Mambo, which has a hint of passion fruit and is delightfully fresh after a day of swallowing salty seawater.

Beers can be paired with local snacks such as fried fish, crab fritters and plantain chips.

You can bet your bottom dollar that it will be some of the freshest grub you have tried, too.

Much of the food in Puerto Rico is sourced from the island.

Pa’l Monte, in the small town of Rincon, is the place to head for proper hearty meals.

Try traditional mofongo, which is fried and then mashed plantain, topped with prawns, meat or veggies.

If you are more of a cheese fan then Vaca Negra is where to head. You can even have a go at making your own cheese (see vacanegra.com).

After busy days of surfing, exploring and gobbling back delicious food, the comfy beds at El Oasis, a retreat in the hilltops of Aguada, offered great respite.

With nothing but the call of the coqui tree frogs to disturb the peace, this spot felt like living in pure paradise.

And I can’t help but feel a little jealous that Bad Bunny gets to call this home.

WASHINGTON — President Bush, formally abandoning the central pledge of his 1988 presidential campaign, declared Tuesday that preserving a healthy economy will require new taxes.

“It is clear to me that both the size of the deficit problem and the need for a package that can be enacted require” a series of measures including “tax revenue increases” as well as spending cuts, Bush said in a written statement issued after a breakfast meeting with congressional leaders of both parties.

He specifically mentioned the possibility of trimming “entitlement and mandatory” spending programs, a reference to Social Security, Medicare, Medicaid and other benefit programs. He did not specify the type of tax increase he had in mind.

With his statement, Bush abandoned his campaign pledge–”Read my lips, no new taxes”–and opened the door to a “grand compromise” with Congress that could narrow or even close the federal deficit. Richard G. Darman, Bush’s budget director, has been advocating such a compromise almost since the day Bush took office.

At the same time, however, Bush may have sparked a full-scale revolt among conservatives in his party, many of whom believe that higher taxes are far worse for the country than continued deficits. He may also have given up what many Republican strategists see as the party’s most important issue–low taxes.

Rep. Robert K. Dornan (R-Garaden Grove) said the President’s announcement that he would consider raising tax revenues set off a “firestorm” among conservative Republicans.

“I signed a letter today . . . that said, ‘Mr. President, we hope that (tax) rates are untouchable, that they are absolutely radioactive.’ ”

Rep. William E. Dannemeyer (R-Fullerton), one of the most fiscally conservative members of Congress, said, “The Democrat game plan all along in this Congress has been to break George Bush of his promise not to raise taxes and so to lay the foundation of a campaign against him by saying he broke his promise and he can’t be trusted.

“And frankly, I’d disappointed in Mr. Bush. I thought he was smarter than falling for that.”

Democratic leaders, by contrast, welcomed Bush’s new stance, which was prepared, word by word, during the breakfast meeting.

Administration and congressional negotiators, who have been meeting since May 9 to try to craft a deficit-reduction package acceptable to all parties, have discussed a host of potential tax increases.

Some proposals, such as increased “user fees” and hikes in tobacco and alcohol taxes, might be relatively easy for Bush to embrace. The Administration has already proposed roughly $20 billion in new user fees and other minor revenue increases.

But Tuesday’s statement was made necessary because Democratic leaders said that package was unacceptable. And while White House spokesman Marlin Fitzwater said it was up to the negotiators to decide what to do next, he pointedly refused to rule out broader tax increases.

Republicans, however, may find it difficult to accept Democratic demands to increase income taxes for the wealthiest Americans. “I can’t see Democrats agreeing unless there are (income tax) rate changes that ensure that (the final package) is not unfair to the poor and middle class,” said House Ways and Means Committee Chairman Dan Rostenkowski (D-Ill.).

Budget negotiators hope to work out a final package before Congress leaves Washington for its August recess.

Before Tuesday’s developments, said Senate Budget Committee Chairman Jim Sasser (D-Tenn.), the budget talks “were stalemated, going nowhere. The President broke an impasse.”

Bush himself told reporters at the White House Rose Garden Tuesday afternoon: “It is essential that these talks get moving and get moving faster. I want to see this economy grow. I want jobs. I want to see the deficit down.”

Democratic leaders had insisted when the talks began that they would not get involved in specific negotiations unless Bush publicly admitted that a tax increase would be needed.

At the time, the White House insisted that all issues were “on the table” and that Bush would impose “no preconditions” on the talks. But Democrats had insisted on a more explicit statement.

After Bush gave them what they had sought, Democratic leaders appeared solemn and reserved as they struggled to avoid seeming to take political advantage of Bush’s retreat.

“We hope this is not going to be the subject of a political campaign effort,” said House Speaker Thomas S. Foley (D-Wash.) “Someone who wants to complain about taxes being raised will have to complain against both parties.”

When the negotiations began, Democrats feared that Republicans would maneuver them into a corner–forcing them to call for a tax increase and then campaigning against them as “tax-and-spend” liberals.

Many Republican candidates for the Senate this fall already have been doing just that, much as Bush had done in 1988. In that year, Bush’s favorite line–”Read my lips, no new taxes”–formed the centerpiece of his standard stump speech.

Tuesday’s statement not only abandoned that pledge but also gave up on a central tenet of the Republican political philosophy for the past decade–that the deficit is caused by too much spending, not by too little revenue.

Fitzwater, explaining Bush’s decision, said that closing the deficit without new taxes would require spending cuts so large that they “would be unacceptable to all parties.”

The White House estimates that the federal deficit will be roughly $160 billion in fiscal 1991, which begins on Oct. 1. The Gramm-Rudman deficit reduction law would require about $100 billion in across-the-board spending cuts unless the President and Congress agree on a new budget plan.

To mollify conservatives, Bush aides spent much of the day circulating word that the White House was not agreeing to anything beyond the approximately $20 billion in new user fees and related taxes that Bush has already advocated.

“I’m not changing my mind at all” on taxes, Bush insisted during a 45-minute session with 15 Latino reporters from around the country.

Vice President Dan Quayle echoed the theme. “It should not be viewed as a change of policy,” he said in an interview in Los Angeles, where he was raising money for GOP candidates. “This is a deficit reduction summit, not a tax increase summit.”

Asked if he would now admit that Bush was breaking his campaign pledge against new taxes, Fitzwater responded with a laugh: “Are you crazy? . . . Everything we said was true then, and it’s true now. We feel he said the right thing then; he’s saying the right thing now.”

Democratic leaders reacted with some anger to the White House damage control efforts.

“The President’s statement is clear and unambiguous,” said Senate Majority Leader George J. Mitchell (D-Me.). “He said that it is clear to him that tax increases are required. This is a new statement by the President. Any attempt by White House officials or other Republicans to describe the statement otherwise are totally inconsistent with what occurred today.”

Even Fitzwater conceded as much as he listed a series of factors that had forced Bush to change his mind.

The most important was the weakening of the economy since Bush took office. Fitzwater noted that economic statistics continue to show interest rates higher and growth rates lower than the White House had hoped. Bush advisers and most Democratic economists hold deficits at least partly responsible, a point conservatives dispute.

Moreover, the mounting cost of the savings and loan bailout has swelled the deficit, Fitzwater said.

Not all members of Bush’s party, however, were willing to abandon their belief that new taxes are worse than continued deficits.

“Any tax rate increase now threatens recession,” Rep. C. Christopher Cox (R-Newport Beach) said in a statement. “Just the prospect of a tax increase is like a dagger pointed at the jugular vein of the American economy.”

Within hours of Bush’s statement, 90 Republican members of Congress signed a letter to Bush declaring “we were stunned by your announcement that you would be willing to accept tax revenue increases as a part of a budget summit package.”

Rep. Ron Packard (R-Carlsbad), who represents southern Orange County, said he was “a little bit disappointed and a little bit surprised, because I think it was in a way caving in on the issue.”

“A tax increase is unacceptable,” the GOP congressmen wrote. “We will not vote for a budget package that increases tax rates for the American people.”

Sen. Phil Gramm (R-Tex.), one of the authors of the Gramm-Rudman law, said that an agreement may not be worth having if it means a tax increase.

Times staff writers George Ramos and Robert W. Stewart in Washington and Cathleen Decker in Los Angeles contributed to this story.

GEORGE BUSH ON TAXES Oct. 12, 1987: “There are those who say we must balance the budget on the back of the workers–raise taxes again. . . . I am not going to raise taxes again.” Announcement of candidacy in Houston. Jan. 16, 1988: “I want to be the President who finally whips the budget into shape by holding the line on taxes.” Televised debate with five Republican rivals in Manchester, N.H. May 31, 1988: “I’m not going to propose a tax increase.” After meeting with campaign economic advisers at summer home in Kennebunkport, Me. June 14, 1988: “That’s the difference–as plain as day–between us. Tax cuts vs. tax hikes. I will not raise your taxes, period.” At Cincinnati rally, comparing his position with that of Democratic front-runner Michael S. Dukakis. June 24, 1988: “I’ve ruled them all out.” At a Cincinnati news conference, when asked if Bush included excise taxes or other “revenue enhancers” in his rejection of new taxes. July 9, 1988: “If you go to Yosemite Park with your trailer . . . you may have to pay a little more.” At Atlanta news conference, conceding that costs of some programs might rise for users but asserting that voters understood the difference between user fees and tax hikes. Aug. 18, 1988: “My opponent won’t rule out raising taxes, but I will, and the Congress will push me to raise taxes, and I’ll say no, and they’ll push again, and I’ll say to them ‘Read my lips: no new taxes.’ ” Acceptance speech, Republican National Convention, New Orleans. Jan. 31, 1990: “That budget brings federal spending under control. It meets the Gramm-Rudman target. It brings that deficit down further and balances the budget by 1993 with no new taxes.” State of the Union address, discussing budget he proposed to Congress. March 13, 1990: “You know my position and I have no intention of changing that position.” At White House news conference, when asked if he could promise no new taxes this year. May 24, 1990: “Things are complicated out there on this subject. . . . I’d like to do it exactly the way I propose. I’m now enough of a realist to realize that it might not be done exactly that way.” At White House news conference, when asked if he could fulfill his campaign promise. June 26, 1990: “It is clear to me that both the size of the deficit problem and the need for a package that can be enacted require . . . tax revenue increases.” Written statement after meeting with congressional leaders. PROJECTED IMPACT OF VARIOUS TAX INCREASES

Revenue Impac Proposal Next Year Fossil Fuels Tax fuels linked to global $23 warming Social Security Raise tax on benefits to 12 high earners Energy Impose 5% tax on wide range 14 of energy sources Gasoline Raise tax to 21 cents per 12 gallon from 9 cents Stock Market 0.5% tax on stock and bond 8 transactions Cigarettes, Raise 32 cents per pack and 10 Alcohol 25 cents per ounce Income Increase top income tax 4 rate to 33% Acid Rain Tax sources of air 3 pollution Estate Tax capital gains held 2 until death

t (in billions) Proposal Five Years Fossil Fuels $163 Social Security 100 Energy 80 Gasoline 59 Stock Market 58 Cigarettes, 51 Alcohol Income 42 Acid Rain 22 Estate 10

Source: Congressional Budget Office

PERSPECTIVE ON CHANGE–White House feared that Democrats would quit budget talks and blame Bush. A15

OTHER COVERAGE: A14

It’s a rare day when you cannot hike somewhere in Los Angeles.

But as I write this, L.A. County is under an extreme heat warning through Thursday evening. California recently saw its first storms of monsoon season, which I learned is the reason I found myself earlier this week whining about the humidity. We’ve now entered the period of summer when you need to plan your trips with heat in mind.

In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will highlight three hikes around L.A. where, if you go early, you can enjoy a quick, shady jaunt in nature. But first, let’s talk summer trail safety.

How to hike safely in L.A. in summer

• ⌚Avoid hiking in the hottest part of the day. This will vary by day and region, but I typically plan to leave the trail by 11 a.m. in summer, or hike in the evenings, around 6 p.m.
• 🫗Pack more water than you normally need. Dehydration is a major reason that adventurers out on a day hike need to be rescued. It’s generally recommended to drink at least 1 quart every two hours (the amount in your typical Nalgene bottle). In summer, you will need to increase that. During summer, I also like to carry electrolyte powder and gummies.
• 🌤️ Check the weather forecast of where you’re heading. If headed to Angeles National Forest, which includes the San Gabriel Mountains, take a look at the “Current Conditions” tab to find relevant weather information. The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area has a similar page here. If hiking in an L.A. park, remember that, because the region has several microclimates, temperatures can vary widely across the county.
• 😎 Wear sun protection. This includes a sun hoodie, wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. I also recently started regularly carrying the hiking umbrella that I reviewed in last year’s Times Gift Guide.
• 🥵 Know the signs of heat illness. Heat cramps can be the first signal from your body that something is amiss, usually presenting as painful spasms in your legs and/or abdomen. Next comes heat exhaustion. Symptoms include clammy skin, nausea, cramps, vomiting and headache. “Don’t ignore a headache when hiking in hot weather!” the American Hiking Society cautions. “This is serious stuff. Stop. Drink. Rest.”
• 📲 Tell someone where you’re going. Complete this form (or something similar) and share it with a friend or family member. Place an additional copy on your vehicle’s dash if driving to the trailhead. The last thing you want is to be injured without anyone knowing where you are.

3 shady hikes around L.A.

As I’ve said many times, the best hike is where you are. The three hikes below all feature early-morning shade, but if they’re farther than you can drive or reach by transit, check out this guide I wrote about how to find shady hikes near you. I returned to it when writing this piece to remind myself of my own tips!

OK, let’s imagine the air blowing from your office fan or air conditioner is actually a light mountain breeze as we explore these three great hikes. Adventure awaits!

Sycamore trees cast shade over a trickling creek in Sullivan Canyon near Brentwood.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Sullivan Canyon Trail

Distance: 8.8 miles out and back
Elevation gained: 1,200 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Brentwood and the Pacific Palisades
Accessible alternative: Inspiration Loop Trail at Will Rogers State Historic Park

The Sullivan Canyon Trail is an 8.8-mile out-and-back trek along a seasonal creek, shaded by tall sycamores (easy to identify because of their mottled bark) and thick old coast live oaks. There are a few options to explore the canyon, including a loop, but that will include a more exposed route.

To start the most shaded option, you’ll walk past a green gate on Queensferry Road and head down a short, steep paved road. (The walk back up will be the hardest part of the entire hike.)

After about a fifth of a mile, you’ll head northwesterly onto the trail, a wide dirt and gravel road. I immediately felt like I’d been transported into a fairy-tale scene where someone in a carriage would come heading down the trail toward me. Instead, it was a mountain biker, which was less enchanting, but fine nonetheless.

Quickly, I noticed there’s a tree swing builder who loves this canyon. I spotted two swings, one of which I stopped and enjoyed because, why not?

I was surprised to see that the Sullivan Canyon creek, which is about 6.2 miles and starts (per this map) near San Vicente Mountain Park, was still flowing. You will cross the creek and its offshoots a few times, an easy enough task in the summer months when the water is lower.

As you navigate the creek, you’ll notice tadpoles swimming about. I was charmed when I noticed one of these larval amphibians use a leaf to camouflage its movements as it darted to and fro in a shallow pool. That’s one way to trick a bird looking for a snack!

A gopher snake lounges on the trail in Sullivan Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I was admiring the chaparral growing up the canyon walls and the late-blooming wildflowers when I gasped. A few feet ahead, a snake sunned itself on the trail. I used iNaturalist, a citizen science app, to photograph the reptile. The app AI identification system informed me it was 82% sure this was a gopher snake. I laughed to myself, thinking about telling the rescuers after I was struck, “I was 18% sure it wasn’t a rattlesnake!” I passed without issue, but will note that both species are common sights in the canyon.

You do not have to hike the entire length of the trail to enjoy Sullivan Canyon. Because the first 2 miles in are fairly flat, this is a great hike for when you’d like to walk and talk with a friend. Or you could bring a child who needs to frolic, as there are multiple large old trees with thick branches low to the ground, tempting even an older millennial outdoors journalist to try to climb them.

The only downside to this hike is the parking situation. When I arrived, I quickly realized my first task would be to solve a bureaucratic riddle. There were signs noting parking was prohibited from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and then other signs with just arrows pointing in various directions.

Puzzled, I asked a driver in an REI shirt who was standing nearby, as I figured they were probably outdoorsy. They confirmed that amid the arrows, there were gaps where people are allowed to park. As I packed up my bag to head on the hike, feeling semi-confident that my car wouldn’t be towed, a mountain biker pulled up next to my car and asked where he could park. I laughed to myself, suddenly a newfound expert on where to park on Queensferry Road! (And if you want the history of how and when these parking restrictions went into place, you can read this 1998 Times story.)

But even with the parking headaches, Sullivan Canyon remains a treasure worth exploring for the shade, light breeze and beauty it offers to early-morning hikers.

Left, Millard Creek runs alongside this hike to the Dawn Mine; and right, a view of the San Gabriel Valley and beyond from the Millard Canyon area.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Dawn Mine Trail

Distance: About 6 miles out and back
Elevation gained: About 1,550 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Altadena
Accessible alternative: Gabrielino Trail near NASA’s JPL

This 6-mile jaunt to the Dawn Mine offers hikers a shade-lined path along Millard Creek where it’s common to spot California tree frogs and newts, along with a host of native shrubs and trees.

To begin your hike, you can either parallel park near Nuccio’s Nurseries, taking care to obey all parking signage, or if those spots are all taken, park nearby and order a rideshare to drop you at the trailhead. I had cell reception with Verizon here, so it should be possible to order a ride back to your vehicle.

Millard Creek in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From here, you have two options to reach the Dawn Mine trailhead.

1. Follow Chaney Trail road for a mile until you reach Mt. Lowe Motorway (called Mt. Lowe Road on some maps), where you’ll turn east. Chaney Trail road offers limited shade, so start early.

2. Walk about half a third of a mile north from Nuccio’s, and then near a bend in the road you’ll take the Chaney Trail, a winding dirt path north, for about half a mile where it’ll meet up with Mt. Lowe Motorway. (This option is also about a mile, although distance will depend on where you park.)

Headed northeast-ish on Mt. Lowe Motorway, you will walk just over a third of a mile before heading off the pavement and onto a trail. You’ll reach Millard Creek in about two-thirds of a mile.

You’ll head east and northeast until reaching Dawn Mine, which former Times outdoors writer John McKinney noted was a literal gold mine from 1895 through the 1950s. These days, it’s a figurative gold mine for local history buffs or those who want to take a cool selfie.

Millard Creek in the San Gabriel Mountains near Altadena, as seen in January.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

It is not safe to enter the mine, but you can enjoy the frigid breeze coming out of its mouth. Mountain air-conditioning!

I’d advise turning around from here. You might notice on your map that it’s possible to make a loop, and although that route offers great views, it’s exposed and not ideal on the hotter days of summer.

Franklin Canyon Reservoir north of Beverly Hills.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Franklin Canyon Park loop

Distance: 1.2-mile loop with options to extend (see map)
Elevation gained: About 200 feet
Difficulty: Easier end of moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Nearest: The hillsides between Beverly Hills and Studio City
Accessible alternative: Franklin Canyon Drive loop

Franklin Canyon Park is 605 acres of public land north of Beverly Hills that features chaparral and oak woodlands. The park has three bodies of water: the 3-acre Franklin Canyon Lake, Heavenly Pond and Wild Pond.

To reach the park, you’ll enter through either the northern or southern gate. (The northern gate was closed for months while the L.A. Department of Water and Power completed a project.)

Take good care as you drive into the park, as there are a few tight corners with low visibility.

Upon arrival, I’d recommend taking a 1.2-mile loop, which I’ve mapped out here, that will take you past the lake and ponds and up into the park’s hillsides. Whenever I’ve visited the park, I’ve found it to be cooler than the nearby neighborhoods, thanks to its water and abundant shade provided by oaks, sumac and other trees.

To begin your hike, you’ll park in the large dirt main parking lot. Head south on Franklin Canyon Drive, where you’ll quickly find a trail entrance with wooden steps that lead down near Franklin Canyon Reservoir. I hope you’re greeted by the sound of quacking waterfowl like I was!

Continue in the southerly direction, appreciating the gnarled coast live oaks and sound of shy red-eared sliders plopping off their logs into the water. This short trail will lead you back up to the road where you’ll walk south for just a bit before turning onto the gentle path that loops around Heavenly Pond. This is an especially good spot to find turtles and ducks.

A turtle rests on a hunk of wood in the Heavenly Pond in Franklin Canyon Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From Heavenly Pond, continue south on the paved road, following it past the private residence to the wooden steps at the reservoir’s southern end. Take these stairs down onto Chernoff Trail. You’ll quickly spot toyon and pine trees, among other natural delights. Soon, you’ll bear right (or northeast) to take stairs onto the road. Cross the road and continue northeast onto the trail. Take the next set of steps up past thick bunches of black sage.

Continue north on Blinderman Trail, following as it bears east before it loops back around west. Along the way, you’ll pass well-maintained benches and bridges. If it’s already sunny out, please consider shortening your jaunt up these steeper trails in Franklin Canyon and consider repeating your excursion around the ponds.

At any point you need to refill your water bottle, there are water fountains near the Eugene and Michael Rosenfeld Auditorium, which is just southeast of the main lot.

***

Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove takes a turn on a tree swing attached to a sturdy coast live oak branch in Sullivan Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

We are so lucky to have an abundance of public land tucked throughout L.A. I hope you find blissful shade, trickling streams and the experience you need out there!

3 things to do

Hikers talking and connecting on a previous Better Future Club hike.

(Amanda Sayeg)

1. Make new friends on a hike in L.A.
The Better Future Club will host a short hike at 9:30 a.m. Saturday in Griffith Park. Participants will gather at the Trails, a cafe in the park, before heading out. Register at luma.com.

2. Chill out with the mountain chickadees near L.A.
The Antelope Valley Audubon Society will host a birding field trip from 8 a.m. to noon Saturday at Chilao Visitor Center in Angeles National Forest. All experience levels welcome. Society members will bring extra binoculars, but guests are encouraged to bring their own if they have a pair. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Saunter down Santiago Creek in Orange
The Santiago Creek Greenway Alliance will host a five-mile community bike ride from 1 to 3 p.m. Sunday in Orange. Riders will meet at the Sports Center at Grijalva Park parking lot (368 N. Prospect in Orange). The group will take the Santiago Creek Bike Trail to the Santiago Park ECO Center in Santa Ana. Register at eventbrite.com.

The must-read

The Hansen Dam Aquatic Center in Lake View Terrace is said to be the largest pool in America. The center features public swimming, its own beach, pedal boats, a large water slide and fishing.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

I personally love “Gray May” and “June Gloom,” the times when Los Angeles is overcast for several days in late spring and early summer. It makes choosing a hike easy, as I don’t need to exclude every single exposed path or fire road from the possibilities of where I will go on a particular day. We are now entering what I’ve laughingly dubbed, mostly in my head, “You Fry July!” Although the L.A. temperatures are nothing like what my friends and family back in Oklahoma are experiencing, our dry heat is getting hotter as we move more fully into summer. That’s why, instead of hiking, consider taking a dip at one of these 24 affordable L.A. pools. Or take a dip after a morning hike. Either way, stay cool, stay hydrated and stay safe, friends!

Happy adventuring,

P.S.

Two weeks ago, I wrote about great first-come, first-served campgrounds near L.A. where you can often find a spot, even when arriving last minute. A reader later commented on my story that Google Maps had taken them on a harrowing back road to reach Horse Flat Campground. My heart dropped, as I worried I had sent a Wild reader into danger. I quickly checked which route Google Maps was recommending — and I got big mad. Google Maps was showing that Angeles Crest Highway was closed just east of Red Box Picnic Area, which was inaccurate. I contacted Google (crickets from them) and the California Department of Transportation, who quickly corrected the route to accurately portray where the highway is actually closed. The best way to know about closures along Angeles Crest Highway is to check the California Department of Transportation’s QuickMap tool. Please be safe out there!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

IT MAY be sizzling at the moment – but set your sights on winter breaks to bag some real value.

Now is the best time to book a Christmas getaway, says Sophie Swietochowski, with prices as low as they go for the next few weeks. You can try out these top deals . . . 

WINTER SUN IN EGYPT

THOSE wanting to spend Christmas on the beach in luxury lodgings should set their sights on Hurghada.

It’s around a five-hour flight, temperatures will reach 23C and you’ll be waited on hand and foot.

You can score a cracking deal with easyJet if you book before July 21, using the code FOOTBALL26.

There’s £100 off a seven-night B&B getaway to the 4H Cook’s Club El Gouna with a new price from £876pp based on two sharing and including flights from Bristol on December 19.

TIME TO GO

I went to the new historical live-action theme park in the UK with NO rides

WAT-ER RUSH

The UK’s best leisure centres that are more like waterparks

See easyjet.com/en/holidays.

SANTA IN LAPLAND

IF bucket list is what you’re after, that’s what you’ll get when you whisk the kids off to Finnish Lapland.

Who wouldn’t dream of seeing Santa Claus on Christmas Day?

The Suomo resort will take your breath away, with its thick woodland coated in fresh snow, and cosy wooden lodges where you can hunker down with some wine or a board game around a roaring fireplace.

Along with feeding the reindeer, little ones will get to join the elves filtering through letters and go husky sledding or tobogganing, all while wrapped in their snowsuit and boots — free for all guests.

The four-night package costs from £1,890pp based on a family of four sharing and includes all of the experiences mentioned above, plus flights from Stansted on December 23.

You’ll stay in the Scandi-decorated Arctic Circle Hotel with all meals included and a meeting and gift from Santa.

See canterburytravel.com.

MICKEY IN PARIS

DISNEY doesn’t come cheap, no matter what time of year you visit, but if you book now you can bag seriously good deals over Christmas.

Disney Enchanted Christmas brings the magic from November 7 to January 6 and this season, for the first time, the joy will spread beyond Disneyland Park as you celebrate in Arendelle style in World Of Frozen.

Queen Anna, Elsa ,Olaf and friends, will welcome guests into the Kingdom of Arendelle at Disney Adventure World, plus there are carol singalongs and character meet-and-greets.

Three nights’ room-only in Disney’s Santa Fe hotel is from £745.96pp based on a family of four sharing, flying from Heathrow on December 23.

This price includes four days’ worth of park tickets for the whole family.

See disneyholidays.co.uk.

AMSTERDAM MARKETS

SOME cities simply come alive in winter ­— and Amsterdam is undoubtedly one of those.

The frosted canals of the Netherlands city are lit up by old-fashioned lampposts and pokey cafes serve up piping- hot mugs of Choco- mel spiked with rum to give it some extra warmth.

The Christmas markets will be in full force in the lead-up to the big day.

But these are not your stereotypical tat stalls — everything here if authentically Dutch.

Don’t forget to sample the oliebollen — warm doughballs dunked in powdery icing sugar.

Check in at the 4H Leonardo Museumhotel Amsterdam City Centre which is slap-bang in the heart of the action.

Four nights’ room-only costs from £485pp based on two people sharing and including flights from Liverpool on December 23.

See onthebeach.co.uk.

SKIING IN ANDORRA

Few scenes are more spectacular at Christmas time than those from the top of a snow-drenched ski slope, the sun reflecting off the mountain-scape.

Crystal Ski has some great deals at the moment, including this one to Andorra. The resort of Grandvalira is perfect for both pros and beginners, with one of the largest ski domains in Europe, home to a whopping 215 km of interconnected slopes, meaning there’s great variety.

These pistes are often praised for their world-class ski schools that exceed many others in Europe, plus it’s a little more affordable than the Alps.

Seven nights’ half board at the 4* Residence Pas de la Casa Alaska is from £825pp based on two people sharing including flights from Gatwick on December 20.

See crystalski.co.uk.

For the first time in 48 years, Japan has changed its visa fee, rising by a staggering five times for foreign nationals, who will need to pay an extra £55 when visiting

Japan has dramatically hiked its visa fees for tourists, with the cost of entry now a whopping five times higher.

From Wednesday, 1 July, many foreign nationals travelling to the country home to Mount Fuji will be required to pay 15,000 yen (£69.99) for a single-entry visa, a sharp rise from the previous 3,000 yen (£14). Meanwhile, multi-entry visas will now set travellers back 30,000 yen (£139.98), jumping up from 6,000 yen (£28).

This represents a staggering fivefold increase, meaning visitors will fork out an additional £55.99 for a single trip, or £111.98 for a multi-entry visa. Remarkably, this marks the first time Japan has raised its visa fees since 1978 — a full 48 years ago.

Foreign Minister Toshimitsu Motegi said the changes were made to “reflect inflation and exchange rate fluctuations”. He added: “We do not anticipate that it will have an immediate impact on inbound tourism.”

The updated visa fees will apply to all applications submitted on or after 1 July, 2026, as the nation continues to experience a surge in visitor numbers. Last year alone, Japan welcomed a remarkable 42.7 million international tourists, with iconic destinations such as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka remaining amongst the most sought-after, reports the Express.

The good news for Brits is that Japan has reciprocal visa exemption arrangements with 74 countries and regions, allowing citizens to enter for short-term stays without a visa. UK passport can stay for 90 days visa-free.

Japan’s new visa charge places it among the pricier destinations to enter globally. Other nations with steep tourist visa costs include the UK, where a standard visitor visa costs £135, and Ghana, where travellers from non-African nations pay $260.

Some countries levy per-night charges, with Bhutan ranking among the most expensive. A daily sustainable development levy of $100 is imposed per adult.

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) advises that Brits travelling to Japan must make sure their passport remains valid for the duration of their visit. The FCDO states on its travel advice page: “No additional period of validity is required. You need a blank page for your visa stamp.”

In guidance on obtaining a visit, the Foreign Office adds: “You can get a visa on arrival in Japan for tourism or business for up to 90 days. You do not need to apply before you travel. If you need a multiple-entry visa, you must ask the immigration officials when you arrive. If you want to stay longer, you can apply at your nearest immigration office for an extension for another 90 days. Your passport must be valid for the period of the extension.”

The FCDO adds: “For long-term stays or to work or study, you must meet the Japanese government’s entry requirements. Check which type of visa you need. It is illegal to work in Japan without the correct visa, no matter how informal or temporary the work.

“If you overstay your permission to remain in Japan, you risk arrest, detention and a heavy fine. For residency information, see the Japanese Immigration Services Agency website and read about living in Japan.”

While there is no advice against travelling to Japan, the FCDO has warned about “global travel impacts due to escalation in the Middle East.” They stated: “Escalation in the Middle East has caused widespread travel disruption, including airspace closures, delayed and cancelled flights.

“Your travel plans may be affected, even if your destination is not in the Middle East. Before you travel:

• Check travel advice for any countries or territories you are transiting through
• Check for the latest updates from your airline or tour operator
• Review your travel insurance policy for coverage
• Monitor local and international media for the latest information and sign up for travel advice email alerts.”

For more information on travel to Japan, visit the Foreign Office travel advice website.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

I was alone in the forest in my favorite place for the first time in years, so I did the only logical next right thing. I lay down.

There I was, sprawled next to Millard Canyon Falls, listening as the water roaring down the cliff and cool air whooshed past my face. I gained a new perspective when I gazed at an upside-down waterfall. What’s the point of hiking if we don’t play around?

In today’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I provide you with three great hikes where rivers and waterfalls are still flowing. It’s essential information as we head into summer and temperatures start to rise.

If you were to force me to choose my favorite hike, I would stubbornly refuse to pick just one, but my list would include these three.

That’s why I really want to urge you, my dear Wild reader, to treat these places with the reverence they deserve. That includes:

• Refreshing your memory on the seven “Leave No Trace” principles.
• Packing a small trash bag in which you can store empty food wrappers, toilet paper and garbage you spot along the way.
• Observing wildlife from a distance, including California newts, which you shouldn’t pick up because it’s rude and, more important, because they can secrete a neurotoxin through their skin that can be lethal to humans.
• Remember to practice good hiking etiquette.

OK, let’s talk about where your next favorite hike will be!

Millard Canyon Falls in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Millard Canyon Falls

Distance: 3.3 to 4.3 miles (see below)
Elevation gained: About 900 to 1,100 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: Paved segment of Gabrielino Trail from Windsor Boulevard

This 3.3- to 4.3-mile hike to Millard Canyon Falls will take you through lush hillsides and beneath the shade of coast live oaks and bigleaf maples as you walk alongside, and sometimes through, Millard Creek. Your journey ends at Millard Canyon Falls, a gorgeous 50(ish)-foot waterfall that gushes past massive boulders perched at the top of the cascade.

This hike is usually much shorter (about 1.5 miles), but a road closure in place since the Eaton fire lengthened it. I will explain more about the closure later. It is important to note, though, that Chaney Trail is the name of the roadway and an actual trail, both of which you’ll take on this hike.

To begin your hike, you can either parallel park near Nuccio’s Nurseries, taking care to obey all parking signage, or if those spots are all taken, park nearby and order a rideshare to drop you at the trailhead. I had cell reception with Verizon here, so it should be possible to order a ride back to your vehicle.

Millard Creek in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From here, you have two options for reaching the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead.

1. Follow Chaney Trail road for about 1.66 miles to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead. This route will be exposed, so you’ll need to start early if you choose this option.

2. Walk about half a third of a mile north from Nuccio’s, and then, near a bend in the road, you’ll take the Chaney Trail, a winding dirt path that I was delighted to find is in great shape. (Shout out to Restoration Legacy Crew, a volunteer trail maintenance group, for its amazing work in the Millard Canyon area!)

That trail is a bit overgrown in a few spots, so you’ll want to wear pants (or take the road). Additionally, make sure to lightly stomp before heading into overgrown areas, as this helps alert any snakes snoozing in the shade of your presence.

The view from the ground looking up at Millard Canyon Falls.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You’ll take Chaney Trail for about half a mile, pausing to catch your breath and take in the increasingly great views of the San Gabriel Valley. You will next cross over Mt. Lowe Motorway to take the Sunset Ridge Trail down. (See map for greater detail.)

You will boogie down a few switchbacks for 0.7 miles, enjoying shade provided by bay laurels and sumac trees, listening to the sweet songs of canyon wrens and spotted towhees. (That’s who was singing to me, anyway!)

You will reach the Millard Canyon campground, which is closed for overnight camping but does feature a few nice picnic tables shaded by massive coast live oaks. With the creek flowing nearby, I wouldn’t blame you if you stopped and had a little snack here.

Millard Campground in Angeles National Forest. It is closed because of damage from the Eaton fire.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

That said, you have finally made it to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead! Just northwest of the campground, you’ll find a little arrow pointing you northward onto the trail. From here, you will gain minimal elevation, and can actually just frolic. It is about half a mile to the waterfall.

As I mentioned, this trail is usually shorter and easier to access, as there’s a large parking lot near the trailhead and more parking along the roadway.

The roadway Chaney Trail was slated to reopen at the end of April. I frequently checked Los Angeles County Public Works’ road closure website, as I had planned to write about Millard Canyon once the road reopened. But when I checked the website, I saw that the reopening had been moved to the end of August. Huh?

I asked the public information officers at county Public Works about it and was told: “We are currently coordinating with our on-call emergency contractor to complete guardrail repairs on Chaney Trail, just north of the gate. Construction is anticipated to begin in July and be completed by the end of August, weather and field conditions permitting.”

Clockwise from top left: prickly phlox, golden yarrow, cliff aster and a type of larkspur. Center: A little bird on a dried out plant.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I passed a shiny new guardrail just north of the gate when I was hiking there earlier this week. I asked the agency whether there was some other guard rail missing. No, my friends. “The community raised concerns about the roadway narrowing included in this project, and we will be reconstructing the guardrail to address those concerns,” a spokesperson told me via email.

And now ends the saga of the Chaney Trail guardrail.

As for Millard Canyon, I will admit, it quite possibly is my favorite frontcountry natural areas. I was reminded of this fact when I visited this week. Although the road closure adds some steep mileage to reach the canyon, it’s worth it to me. I will be back. I hope to see you there!

The Fish Canyon Narrows near Castaic.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Fish Canyon to Fish Canyon Narrows

Distance: About 5.5 miles
Elevation gained: About 400 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: San Francisquito Creek Trail

To reach the Fish Canyon Narrows, you will take the Fish Canyon Trail (called Forest Route 6N32 or the Warm Springs Fish Canyon Truck Trail on some maps) on a 5.5(ish)-mile out-and-back journey. You will ascend into narrowing walls of sandstone, granite and conglomerate. A healthy stream flows throughout the canyon, giving you ample opportunity to cool off or have a picnic in a naturally occurring sound bath (which, when you’re lucky, will include a tree frog).

A quick note: This is the most rugged (read: least curated) of the three adventures mentioned in this list. There is no trail signage, and you’re in a less popular corner of Angeles National Forest. You might be entirely alone, especially if you hike this on a weekday. You should plan accordingly. Or skip it if I’ve already freaked you out. (I do this out of love!)

To begin, you’ll park on the road’s shoulder, and head east through a gate. Follow the roadway north and then south as it curves toward a dirt path. Follow the exposed dirt path northeast. You’ll trudge through multiple water crossings and be blessed with the occasional shade of sycamore trees.

The narrows are often cooler than the rest of the area. The first portion of this hike has little to no shade, so make sure to wear plenty of sun protection.

And if you leave the trail but aren’t ready to go home, head over to the swim beach at Castaic Lake. And if you’re not tired, there’s always the Cali Splash Park, a massive inflatable floating park. That’s a full day of adventure!

A hiker lies near the creek along the Icehouse Canyon Trail.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

3. Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle

Distance: Around 7 miles
Elevation gained: 2,600 feet
Difficulty: Challenging
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: West Fork National Scenic Bikeway

Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle is a 7(ish)-mile trek that runs mostly parallel to the gorgeous and crystal clear Icehouse Creek, which often features several short waterfalls as the water rockets down the mountainside.

As they trek through the canyon shaded by bigleaf maple, California incense-cedar and bigcone Douglas-fir, hikers might spot wildflowers including orange-yellow western wallflowers, light purple Grinnell’s Beardtongue and red western columbine.

Icehouse Canyon is popular on weekends and is best visited on a weekday if you can swing it. You’ll need either a $5 Adventure Pass, an annual America the Beautiful pass or other federal public lands pass to park.

To begin your hike, you’ll park at or near the trailhead — in the parking lot if it’s your lucky day. Otherwise, you’ll park along the roadside, taking good care to read signage and not block anyone’s driveway. Once while walking to the trailhead, I was greeted by a local dog whose collar informed me that he was allowed to meander about and knew how to get back home. I love small mountain towns.

After you park — and remember to display your pass, as forest service workers do ticket vehicles without them — you’ll head east to the trailhead.

A visitor cools down in the creek at Icehouse Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Immediately upon entering the canyon, you’ll be greeted with stunning beauty. Try not to become too distracted by the pools of water surrounded by large boulders. (No one will know if you skip the hike and just take a dip.)

About a mile into your hike, you’ll come to a crossroad where the Chapman Trail and Icehouse Canyon Trail intersect. Continue east on the Icehouse Canyon Trail. A mile farther, you’ll start the switchback portion of the trail, where you’ll gain about 1,200 feet in 1.5 miles. It’s a beautiful suffer fest.

Icehouse Saddle will offer you incredible views of the San Gabriel Mountains and Mojave Desert. You’ll likely meet other hikers here who are planning to continue their journeys to one of several peaks reachable from the saddle, including to popular spots like Cucamonga and Ontario peaks.

Hikers meander past boulders and large pine trees.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

It can be quite windy at Icehouse Saddle, so if you’re planning to have your lunch here (which I’ve done many times), consider packing a windbreaker.

The Times has been writing about hiking in Icehouse Canyon for more than 100 years, as city dwellers have long been drawn to its beauty. A July 1926 article about Icehouse Canyon started with a headline declaring, “Here’s a nice cool trip” in all caps.

“It is a trip which one will want to take more than once when its lure has gotten into the blood,” an unnamed Times journalist wrote.

May we all be so lucky to return again and again.

3 things to do

Docent Susan Hopkins leads a Pride Month hike during a previous year’s celebrations.

(L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation)

1. Celebrate Pride across L.A. County
The L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation will host several events celebrating LGBTQ+ Pride throughout June. Almost 60 county parks are hosting events, including from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dalton Park in Azusa; from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dr. Richard H. Rioux Park in Stevenson Ranch; and from noon to 2 p.m. Saturday at Crescenta Valley Community Regional Park in La Crescenta. For a list of all events, visit parks.lacounty.gov.

2. Walk for peace in L.A.
Los Angeles meditation nonprofit InsightLA will lead a free 12-mile Walk for Peace from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. The walk will start at Hollywood Forever Cemetery and end with community picnic at Tongva Park in Santa Monica. Register at insightla.org.

3. Repair trails in remote forest near L.A.
The Lowelifes Respectable Citizens’ Club, a volunteer trail maintenance group, needs volunteers on Saturday and Sunday to help restore an overgrown segment of the Gabrielino Trail in Angeles National Forest. Volunteers will either ride gravel bikes down a 5.5-mile dirt road or hike in. Previous trail work experience not required. Register by emailing trailwork@lowelifesrcc.org.

The must-read

The aedes aegypti mosquito, called the “yellow fever mosquito,” is well-known for spreading nasty illnesses like its namesake and dengue fever.

(Sameer Neamah Mahdi / Associated Press)

Here’s a sentence I didn’t expect to write this year (or ever): Google would like to release up to 64 million sterilized male mosquitoes in California and Florida to help combat mosquito-borne illnesses such dengue, Zika, chikungunya and yellow fever. “Google says it can harness technology to optimize a concept that’s been around for decades, but hasn’t worked at a large enough scale with mosquitoes to rein in disease,” Times staff writer Lila Seidman reported. The project is called Debug —although Google could have gone with WiFly.

I’ll see myself out.

Happy adventuring,

P.S.

You’re sitting there thinking about your weekend, wondering, “Is there anywhere I could go dressed as a shark?” Why, yes, there is! The Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cosplay for Science will co-host the Science Entertainment Aquarium Convention from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at the aquarium (3720 Stephen M. White Drive in San Pedro). SeaCon 2026 will feature a beach cleanup, a fictional marine biology panel and a cosplay contest, along with much more. Learn more at the aquarium’s Instagram page. Have a jaw-some time!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

ANOTHER UK airport has increased its drop-off fees in a move that has been slammed by passengers.

Dropping someone off at an airport can be pricey – and poses a risk of a hefty fine if you forget to pay the charge.

With many major UK airports hiking the price of their drop-off fees in recent months, Norwich Airport has now done the same.

The East Anglian travel hub operates flights to dozens of locations across the UK and Europe.

With airlines such as Ryanair, KLM, TUI and more in operation at the Norfolk airport, the hub sees thousands of passengers a week.

On June 1, the charge for drivers dropping travellers off was increased from £6 for a 30-minute stay, to £8 for just 20 minutes.

RAIL FAIL

New UK train service is suspended after just a week due to ‘mechanical fault’

GROUNDED

Badly-behaved Brits face being banned from flying for LIFE under new Labour rules

Now, the fee change is being criticised, with passengers and drivers calling it “disgusting” and “mad”.

Meanwhile, taxi operators are being forced to warn customers that the charge will be part of their cab bill when rides are booked.

Mark Streeter, boss of Norwich’s Courtesy Taxis, told Norwich Evening News: “The main annoyance from our side is that we tell customers it’s an extra £5 or so, and now it’s gone up with no warning. So either the customer or the driver has to pay more than expected.”

Norwich Airport has responded to explain that the drop-off fee increase is a result of growing business costs and worsening energy prices.

A spokesperson for Norwich Airport told The Sun: “We understand that no one welcomes increased charges. But our airport group is facing sharp rises in costs, including a tripling of business rates, higher employment costs such as National Insurance and rising energy costs.”

Admitting that there is no choice but to rely on the public to absorb some of the growing costs, the spokesperson added: “At the same time, we continue to invest millions of pounds in maintaining the airport infrastructure needed to provide an essential public service in our regions.

“We cannot keep absorbing these increased costs without passing some of the additional burden on to our customers.”

Norwich’s change in drop-off policy comes alongside Stansted Airport‘s similar changes.

The London airport took its 15-minute express drop-off charge from £7 to £10 in March, with stays of up to 30 minutes now costing £28 instead of £25.

Meanwhile, London Gatwick‘s fee for a 10-minute drop-off now costs £10, up £5 from when it was first introduced in 2021.

I felt frustrated as I hiked through the canyon.

Seemingly at every single turn, a hiker blazed past me, ignoring any semblance of trail etiquette.

A house party near the mouth of the canyon blared music that reverberated throughout the hillsides, blocking any chance to hear birdsong. Although I’m nonbinary, I felt my gender rapidly evolving into grumpy old man.

“The privilege of living here,” I grumbled to myself. “Never hiking on Memorial Day ever again.”

Then, I realized just how much my own attitude was ruining what could otherwise be a beautiful day outdoors. I paused, took a few deep breaths and made myself look at the flowers, take in the smile of a passing hiker, and say a few things I felt grateful for. This gentle reframing saved the day.

It was my first time hiking around Santa Ynez Canyon, and I laughed at myself for expecting serenity on Memorial Day, when seemingly half of L.A. heads to the beach and mountains for a quick escape. I had high expectations for the canyon’s Los Leones Trail. Several friends and colleagues had told me how beautiful it was. But those expectations were what put me in such a bad head space at the start of my hike.

I share this experience because I want to remind us all how lucky we are to live in a place where we can hike near the Pacific Ocean and then go swim and bounce in its waves.

In this edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will share three great hikes near some of the best (and cleanest!) beaches in Los Angeles County.

I chose trails near beaches that made our “15 best beaches in L.A. County” list this year, including two that feature tide pools. (Don’t know what a tide pool is? Check out my guide on how to explore them!)

A few quick things to remember:

• Plan for hotter temperatures as summer creeps up: 🥵 Make sure to pack more water than you typically need, especially on hikes with minimal shade.
• Bring your sun protection: Lately, I’ve been using my hiking umbrella that I reviewed for last year’s holiday gift guide. Its silver top deflects heat while its black underside traps harmful UV rays.
• Leave no trace: Please refresh your memory of the seven “Leave No Trace” principles, including being mindful of how loud you’re talking and not playing music audibly from your phone or a speaker.
• Tell someone where you’re going: Complete this form (or something like it) and leave a copy with a friend or family member, and another on your car’s dash. This will better ensure rescuers can find you, should an emergency occur.

OK, now that we’ve covered some essential safety measures, let’s dive into this week’s hikes. Soon, you could gaze upon a stretch of coastline from one of these hikes, only to go swimming later in the day at the same spot!

A popular lookout spot near the Los Leones Trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Los Leones Trail to Parker Mesa Overlook

Distance: About 7.4 miles out and back
Elevation gain: About 1,500 feet
Difficulty: Moderately challenging
Dogs allowed? No
Accessible alternative: Will Rogers State Park’s Inspiration Loop Trail
Beach to visit nearby: Will Rogers State Beach at Temescal Canyon

This 7.4-mile out-and-back journey in the Santa Monica Mountains starts with taking the Los Leones Trail about 1.3 miles up before joining with East Topanga Fire Road for a steep 2.4-mile trek to the Parker Mesa Overlook.

To begin your hike, you’ll park in or around the Los Leones trailhead near Topanga State Park. Hopefully, you’ll snag a spot in the small lot near the trailhead. This reporter did not get that lucky, but I did find there was plenty of street parking, although it adds a little mileage to the trip.

There are flush toilets and water fountains near the trailhead, which always feels like a luxury. And even just from the restrooms, you can already see the deep blue ocean, a visual hint of what’s to come.

A large swath of the L.A. County coastline is visible from the East Topanga Fire Road.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You’ll find the trailhead marked by a wood and rock archway with a “Los Leones Canyon” sign. From here, you’ll hike north along steep rocky stretches. Poles and shoes with good traction are essential. I saw multiple hikers fall without them.

Immediately upon entering, it’s easy to see where last year’s Palisades fire charred several trees along the hillside. There is a little bit of mustard popping up, but it’s not overtaking the California sagebrush and other native plants just yet. I was pleased to see wildflowers still blooming in this canyon, including bush monkey flower, cardinal catchfly and just a bit of canyon sunflower. There were also several sumac and Southern California black walnut trees.

Watch out for roots and rocks along the Los Leones Trail, as I noticed several that could easily catch the feet of tired hikers headed down.

From left: Douglas nightshade, bush monkey flower, and canyon sunflower.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

As mentioned, there was a loud house party at one of the houses down the canyon. Once I turned a corner about half a mile in, I could finally hear nature’s music over the All-American Rejects.

At just under 1.3 miles, you’ll find the Los Leones Trail meeting with East Topanga Fire Road (called the Paseo Miramar Trail on some maps). There’s an optional side quest here where you can take the fire road south to an overlook spot with a tree prominent on its bare hilltop.

Otherwise, you’ll take the East Topanga Fire Road northwest for about 1.8 miles before turning south to walk just over half a mile to the Parker Mesa Overlook. Along the way, you’ll find several spots to pause and take in the views.

To the east, you will see the wood frames of dozens of houses being rebuilt after the Palisades fire. It offers a sobering perspective on the long journey to getting one’s house back after wildfire.

I could also see downtown L.A., the Santa Monica Pier, the Palos Verdes Peninsula, sailboats and maybe some dolphins. (If you want to learn how to spot whales and dolphins from the trail, check out my tips on how to do just that!)

As hikers ascend the East Topanga Fire Road, the views of the Pacific Ocean grow only more expansive and panoramic.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

As I left the trail, I noticed the house party had ended, as had my bad mood.

The short trails around White Point Preserve meander through coastal prairie and coast sage scrub.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Vista Trail & Grasslands Loop Trail

Distance: From 1.6 to 2.2 miles
Elevation gain: About 250 feet
Difficulty: Easy, but does include hills
Dogs allowed? Yes, but not on beach
Accessible alternative: Paths around the White Point Nature Education Center and some portions of the Grassland Loop
Beach to visit nearby: White Point/Royal Palms Beach

This gentle 1.6-mile trek through White Point Nature Preserve in San Pedro combines two trails: Grasslands Loop Trail (0.8 miles) and the Vista Trail (0.8 miles). You’ll experience a coastal prairie, a rare habitat that used to cover an estimated 36 square miles, “extending north-south from the crest of the Ballona Bluffs to Palos Verdes and inland from the lee of the El Segundo sand dunes for three to six miles,” according to research compiled by the Urban Wildlands Group.

The White Point Nature Preserve, a 102-acre expanse, also houses a nature education center that’s open weekends from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. The preserve’s trails are open daily from dawn to dusk.

Maggie May, canine hiking companion of Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove, trots along the trail past native plants in the White Point Preserve.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The preserve was previously owned by the U.S. military and was a Nike missile site, a Cold War-era missile defense system. The Palos Verdes Peninsula Land Conservancy now manages the L.A. city-owned property, regularly hosting volunteer opportunities to continue the conservancy’s efforts to restore the preserve’s native plant system that was destroyed by human activities.

After your hike, you can head just west of the preserve to White Point/Royal Palms Beach, which Times contributor Jenna Belhumeur wrote in our beach guide offers “some of the most diverse tide pools in Southern California.”

To begin your hike, you’ll park either in a large dirt lot at the preserve or along the street. Then, it’s choose your own adventure. If you’d like to do both loops (see map), you could head west from the parking lot, briefly walking on the Grassland Loop before joining the Vista Trail. Take the Vista Trail clockwise as it wraps around the preserve.

Catalina Island is often visible from White Point Preserve.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

At the top of Vista Trail, the conservancy notes that: “Catalina Island is often visible less than 20 miles away. On the northeast portion of the trail are two gun emplacements built in 1942 as part of the US coastal defense system, each housing a 16-inch gun.” It was a clear enough day when I hiked the trail that I thought I saw a dolphin jump in the nearby water!

You can head from the Vista Trail and join back up with the Grasslands Trail to take its full loop around, too. There is also a nice path around the nature center with several educational signs about the local culture, flora and fauna.

The White Point Nature Education Center in San Pedro.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I visited the preserve on a weekday and found it to be somewhat meditative, especially when I realized there was a labyrinth near the nature center. The loudest sound was the crunching of my feet as I headed down the path, my trusted hiking dog Maggie May at my side.

The Nicholas Flat Trail in the Santa Monica Mountains, as seen last May.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. The Willow Creek Trail to Nicholas Flat Loop

Distance: 1.8 miles (with an option to extend)
Elevation gain: About 575 feet (more if you extend)
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? No
Accessible alternative: Nicholas Flat ADA Trail
Beach to visit nearby: Leo Carrillo State Beach

The Willow Creek Trail to Nicholas Flat Loop is a 1.8-mile jaunt through coastal sage scrub at Leo Carrillo State Park that quickly rewards hikers with breathtaking ocean views.

You start near the park’s campground and take the Willow Creek Trail about 0.7 miles northeast before it jags to the west. There, you will find a sign for an ocean vista lookout point, which I recommend as long as body and spirit allow. It’s steep but does provide panoramic views of the mountains and coastline.

From here, you can either take the Nicholas Flat Trail back down to the parking lot, or you can continue on another section of the Nicholas Flat trail that takes you north and eventually to a quaint stock pond in the Nicholas Flat Natural Preserve.

The hike to the stock pond is about 2.3 miles with about 1,100 feet of elevation gained. Round trip, it will add up to 4.6 miles to your hike, depending on whether you incorporate other trails in the preserve into your hike. I’ve found this stretch of the hike to be uncrowded and serene, albeit challenging on the way up.

What I love about this hike is, it’s a buffet serving up some of the best features of the Santa Monica Mountains hikes: great views of the ocean, gorgeous wildflowers and lots of lizards and birds skirting here and there along the trail.

Over the past two weeks, users on iNaturalist have documented golden yarrow, cliff aster, Blochman’s dudleya, Plummer’s mariposa lily and other native plants still with blooms. You might be able to catch wildflowers, too, if you hike it soon!

3 things to do

Volunteers are needed to help at one of the native plant nurseries that the Santa Monica Mountains Fund manages.

(Christina Jimenez, SAMO Fund)

1. Free plants of weeds in Thousand Oaks
The Santa Monica Mountains Fund needs volunteers from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday at its Rancho Sierra Vista nursery to process cuttings, transplant seeds and tend to more than 50,000 plants being grown for local restoration. Volunteers who give at least two hours of their time will be thanked with three native plants. Participants should wear outdoor working attire and bring a reusable water bottle and sun protection. Register at eventbrite.com.

2. Learn about mobility justice in L.A.
BikeLA, Los Angeles Walks and the Willowbrook Inclusion Network will host a soft launch gathering of a new community space from 3 to 5 p.m. Sunday at the Willowbrook/Rosa Parks Station. Guests can visit local vendors, including artists and small businesses, and see a portrait exhibit honoring mobility justice leaders. Learn more at the groups’ Instagram pages.

3. Celebrate the planet in Santa Ana
OC Habitats, a Santa Ana-based conservation nonprofit, will host the “Earth for Everyone” festival from 12:30 to 3:30 p.m. Saturday at 1505 E. 17th Street in Santa Ana. Several local groups, including Bolsa Chica Conservancy, California Native Plants Society’s Orange County chapter and Orange County Coastkeeper, will be in attendance. Guests can play games, listen to live music, win prizes and more. Register at eventbrite.com.

The must-read

A view of the “Texas Dip” on Borrego Springs Road, near where San Diego Gas and Electric has proposed running miles of high voltage power lines and structures through a long stretch of the Anza-Borrego State Park.

(Robert Gauthier/Los Angeles Times)

One of my favorite sounds while I’m out hiking is the strange, discomforting buzz that comes from large transmission towers often found in our mountains. Just kidding! That’s one of many reasons that environmentalists are puzzled as to why San Diego Gas & Electric has proposed a 140-mile transmission line that would cut right through Anza-Borrego Desert State Park — again. As Times staff writer Hayley Smith reported, experts say the project would disrupt habitat for the park’s 1,500 plant and animal species, including bighorn sheep who already face the U.S. border wall as a migratory barrier. In 2008, a project was proposed along a similar route through the park, “but it was rejected by the California Public Utilities Commission as ‘environmentally unacceptable and infeasible’ because it would result in more than 50 significant and unavoidable impacts to the park,’” Smith wrote. It remains unclear what, if anything, has changed since then.

Happy adventuring,

P.S.

The Santa Rosa Island Fire has been devastating for many of us in the outdoors community to witness. The fire started May 15 and burned more than 18,000 acres of the island’s southeastern end. Santa Rosa is the second largest island in California at about 53,000 acres. It is a special place for many reasons, including its Torrey pines, island foxes, lizards, spotted skunks and several rare birds. Do you have any memories from hiking or camping on Santa Rosa Island that you’d like to share? Please either reply to this newsletter if you received it in your inbox, or if reading from the Times website, email me at jaclyn.cosgrove@latimes.com. We might use your responses in an upcoming article or newsletter. Thank you for sharing what makes this place special!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.