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WHEN you picture Dublin, pints of Guinness in the Temple Bar district tend to be the first thing that spring to mind.
But this city is hiding a stunning coastline, with charming seaside towns, craggy castles and beaches so beautiful they’ve earned the stretch the nickname of the Amalfi Coast of Ireland.
The Dublin Coastal Trail stretches from Balbriggan to Killiney, where cliff walks overlook white sandsCredit: AlamyEnjoy the scenic views at Glendalough Valley and upper lake in County WicklowCredit: Getty
Flights cost as little as £21 each way and take just over an hour, so it’s a no-brainer for a budget break combining city and sea.
I ventured along the Dublin Coastal Trail, which stretches from Balbriggan to Killiney, where cliff walks overlook white sands and there are puffin-spotting opportunities aplenty.
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It’s fully accessible by public transport, too. I picked up a Dublin Transport Freedom Ticket from £42, which offers 72 hours worth of travel on buses, trams and the Dart (the coastal train linking these spots).
The first stop on my adventure was Dun Laoghaire, a Victorian seaside town around 15 minutes from Dublin city centre by Dart.
My base was the Royal Marine Hotel, a majestic pink palace that once hosted Frank Sinatra.
A short walk brings you to the Forty Foot, a rocky bathing pool featured in James Joyce’s novel Ulysses and, more recently, on Apple TV’s Bad Sisters.
Locals brave the chilly water year-round, even on Christmas Day, so with the sun shining, I had no excuse.
Plus, visitors can soon warm up at the harbour’s new Helios floating sauna (£21.50pp) where a magnificent floor-to-ceiling window frames paddle-boarders and moored yachts.
Dublin’s is answer to Beverly Hills with medieval streets and cliffside mansions favoured by celebsCredit: AlamyJenna with a spaniel pup at coastal Irish pub The Bloody Stream in HowthCredit: Supplied
Tick off a steak dinner from Casper & Giumbini’s and a delicious treat from Teddy’s ice cream parlour and you’ve done Dun Laoghaire right.
My next stop along the coast was Dalkey, Dublin’s answer to Beverly Hills.
With winding medieval streets and cliffside mansions, it’s an A-list enclave where you might glimpse residents Bono or Enya.
But I wasn’t here for celeb-spotting. It was the seal-spotting I cared about.
A kayak tour (£77) with local guide Jenny took us past seals posing on rocks in curved banana shapes — a sign they feel totally chillaxed, Jenny explained.
We then paddled past bioluminescent moon jellyfish weaving around bladderwrack seaweed, before looping back to Dun Laoghaire, ready for dinner.
This time I gave Hartley’s restaurant a go, where baked salmon followed by a peanut butter brownie rewarded my slightly aching limbs. And if peanut butter brownies sound up your street, you’ll love Blackrock, just over five minutes away by Dart.
This suburb is a bustling hub of artisan bakeries and home to a vintage weekend market you could easily lose hours in.
Armed with a flat white and an iced cinnamon roll from trendy cafe Hatch, I hit the market to sift through a bohemian treasure trove of retro records, vintage dresses and jingling chimes.
This gem of a spot could only be topped by Howth, which might just be my favourite Irish suburb.
Here I met Mark, a local whose Coastal Hike With Pints & Puppies tour (GetYourGuide, £40pp) ticked off a dream combination of activities.
We headed for the Howth Cliff Path on a two-hour loop which offers hands-down Dublin’s most spectacular coastal views.
As we passed turquoise waters shimmering beneath moss-topped cliffs, we came to a lighthouse on a strip of land jutting out over the sea, otherwise known as the Nose of Howth.
In the distance was the small island of Ireland’s Eye, where playful puffins nest.
At local pub The Bloody Stream, Mark’s spaniel puppies (who are likely closer to adulthood by now) mingle with the group.
Mark told me he’s the happiest man in the world to show off the beauty of his town for a living, and I believe him.
If you’re wanting to venture further than Dublin, you can hop on a day’s coach trip with Wild Rover Tours.
The Kilkenny, Wicklow & Glendalough Day Tour (£37) gives you a fast-pass to the neighbouring counties’ best scenery.
Our tour began in Kilkenny, a maze-like medieval city packed with witchy history.
Kilkenny saw Ireland’s first witch trial — that of Alice Kyteler in 1324 — and today you can dine in Kyteler’s Inn, her rumoured former home, marked by the swinging sign of a black cat.
From there we rolled into Glendalough, a glacial valley famous for its glittering twin lakes. After an easy circular loop, we rounded out the afternoon at Cullens Sheep Farm, where farmer Richie led an impressive sheepdog-herding demonstration.
The best part, however, was getting to snuggle up with an adorable fluffy lamb.
You don’t get that at Temple Bar.
GO: DUBLIN COASTAL TRAIL
GETTING THERE: British Airways has return flights from London to Dublin from £42. See ba.com.
STAYING THERE: The Royal Marine Hotel has rooms from £111 per night on a room-only basis. See royalmarine.ie.
From this month the new rule will start coming in at all UK airports with it fulling in force by early 2027
Passengers arriving in the UK will be able to pass through e-gates without showing their passports(Image: Getty Images)
Anyone with a passport has been warned of a major change for all travellers – coming in early 2027. People who may hve been hit by delays getting back into the UK and tryin to use an eGate has been told of the rule change.
From early 2027, passengers arriving in the UK will be able to pass through the gates without showing their passports, according to the Home Office. East Midlands Airport became the first to offer the new system this week, which uses facial technology to scan passengers on approach.
After taking a photo, the system checks the passenger against verified immigration, travel and passport information. The gate then opens automatically once the checks are complete, meaning passengers do not need to place their passport on the e-gate reader.
If further checks are needed, travellers will need to put their passport on the reader or may be directed to a Border Force officer. After opening at the Leicestershire hub, the Home Office said all UK airports will have contactless e-gates by early 2027. Passengers must still carry their passports, though.
Here’s how it works:
passengers approach an eGate and have their photo taken
the system checks this live image against verified immigration, travel and passport information
the eGate opens automatically once these checks are complete
The system uses state-of-the-art facial technology to verify a passenger’s identity before the UK’s robust border security checks are carried out in full. Legitimate travellers can then simply walk through, without needing to place their passport on the eGate reader.
If further checks are needed, passengers will need to place their passport on the reader or may be directed to a Border Force officer, as happens today. Border Force officers will continue to monitor all eGates offering assistance, and passengers should keep their passport with them at all times.
Testing shows the new contactless system is up to 25% faster than using a passport on an eGate.
The phased rollout starts at East Midlands Airport, initially for British citizens, before expanding to more airports and other nationalities already eligible for eGates over the coming months.
Phil Douglas, Director General of Border Force, said: “This is a win for travellers coming to our brilliant country. By using state-of-the-art technology, we are making journeys smoother and faster, all while fully maintaining the UK’s robust border security.
“Our digital transformation also builds on our work this summer to extend eGates to children aged eight and above, making life a little easier for families.
Karen Dee, chief executive of AirportsUK, the trade body for UK airports, said: “This will be excellent news for the passenger and demonstrates how UK airports continue to be at the forefront of new technologies to keep our borders safe, while improving the travelling experience.
“It is vital that we have the fast, efficient borders that arrivals into the UK now expect, and we will work closely with our members and government officials to ensure a smooth rollout.”
Chris Wilson, Head of Terminal & Capacity Planning at Birmingham Airport, said: “We’re pleased to be one of the first airports in the UK to introduce UK Border Force’s contactless eGates.
“Working closely with our industry partners and government agencies, we have actively supported the rollout of the new UK Border Force system here at Birmingham Airport.”
Customers arriving into the UK will benefit from this new speedier and smoother arrival through the border. Millions of people already use eGates every year – the fastest way for legitimate travellers to enter the UK. This marks the latest step in the government’s efforts to modernise the UK border, delivering on the Immigration White Paper.
Earlier this year to e-gates at UK airports were expanded to include younger children allowing, children aged eight and nine returning to the UK to use e-gates.
The gates use facial recognition technology to check passengers’ identities against the photo in their passport, which is generally quicker than manual inspections. Children must be at least 120cm tall so they can be seen by biometric scanners, and accompanied by an adult.
Under previous rules, only passengers aged 10 and above were allowed to use the gates, forcing families with younger children to queue for passport booths.
In addition to the 13 UK airports with e-gates, children aged eight and nine are also now permitted to use them at ports in Brussels and Paris, where juxtaposed checks take place.
OCTOBER half-term is fast approaching, and keeping the kids entertained without spending loads can feel scarier than Halloween itself.
Luckily, you don’t need to spend a small fortune to keep the half term action-packed, with brilliant cheap and free events popping up across the UK.
Meet a whole host of strange and wonderful characters at Playful Park of Peculiar in LondonCredit: High Street Kensington
From giant inflatable monster takeovers, to ‘Wizard Schools’ and Hey Duggee-themed trails, there are options for families of all ages.
Here’s our pick of the best free and cheap family days out for October half-term.
Free
Spooky Season at the National Railway Museum, York
Visit the National Railway Museum between 24 October – 1 November follow a spooky storytelling trail through spectacular vintage trains.
Drop into free daily storytelling sessions, creepy craft workshops and more, while getting to see everything from steam locomotives to the Japanese shinkansen.
For even more hands-on action, grab tickets to the Wonderlab gallery, where the interactive science exhibits have been given a thrilling seasonal twist.
Tickets are free, just make sure to book online in advance.
The Playful Park of Peculiar & Halloween Trail, London
Head to High Street Kensington for a family-friendly Halloween trail that will lead you in and out of shops along one of London’s prettiest streets.
The free trail takes place from October 23 – 31, but if you visit on Halloween, you’ll also get to visit Big Kensington Vintage Flea market which will be specially stocked with Gothic furniture and florals.
Plus, from 4:30pm – 7.30pm that night, Holland Park transform into the Playful Park of Peculiar.
This is a free trail complete with decorations, illuminations and even live characters and performances to meet along the way.
Pendle Hill, Lancashire
For a proper scare this Halloween, head to Lancashire’s Pendle Hill, which is widely known as one of the UK’s most haunted spots.
The area is famous for hosting witch trials in 1612, and there are plenty of ghostly and historical walking tours that delve deep into its past.
Brave a guided ghost walk for £10pp and explore the very villages where the accused witches once lived.
After working up a fright in the dark, you can calm your nerves and warm up with a well-earned pint by a roaring fire in one of the area’s cosy local pubs.
Halloween trails, murder mystery and more on the English Riviera
Brave the hair-raising ‘Abbey After Dark’ scare trail at Torre Abbey, hunt for mini monsters at the illuminated Babbacombe Model Village, or explore ancient underground caves on a creepy ghost walk at Kents Cavern.
If you need a break from the scares, take a brisk walk along the stunning South West Coast path before warming up with a cosy pub lunch.
Derry Halloween Festival
Derry is home to the largest Halloween Festival in EuropeCredit: AlamyVisit Lightpool Festival in Blackpool to see impressive illumination displays for freeCredit: Alamy
Visit the home of Halloween this October half-term, as Derry celebrates the 40th anniversary of Europe’s largest Halloween festival.
Families can tackle the ‘Awakening the Walled City’ trail, where the streets come alive with giant illuminated statues, creepy roaming characters, and thrilling fire shows.
Down in the city centre, the streets are packed with free entertainment and live shows to keep the kids entertained, with acrobatics, circus performers and spooky street theatre.
The fun wraps up on Halloween night with a costume carnival parade through the city and a dazzling fireworks finale over the River Foyle.
Halloween in the City, Manchester
From October 24 – 31, Manchester city centre will be taken over by giant inflatable ghosts and aliens as the popular MCR Monsters return to the city to celebrate their 10th birthday.
Families can join in the completely free monster birthday bash, featuring a Rave Yard disco, live storytelling and a brilliantly bizarre Monster Bake-Off.
Kids are also encouraged to don their best fancy dress alongside creepy creatures in the Walk the Plank monster procession.
To top it all off, little trick-or-treaters can tackle the Kids’ Halloween Hunt on New Cathedral Street to bag themselves a party bag stuffed with free sweets.
Lightpool Festival, Blackpool
Blackpool‘s Lightpool Festival is back with a bang this October half-term, celebrating its 10th anniversary with another completely free program of illuminated entertainment.
Running from October 21 – 31, the seaside town‘s landmarks will be transformed by mesmerising 3D projection shows and interactive artworks including neon jellyfish and giant glowing sculptures.
Make sure to visit the famous Tower Ballroom to catch the ‘Carnival Magic’ show, an explosive performance packed with puppets, fire-breathers, and dancers.
With zero cost to explore all the indoor and outdoor displays, it’s the perfect family evening out to brighten up the dark autumn nights.
£5 and under
Dressing up is encouraged for the Creepy Circus trail and Zombie Apocalypse Party in WeymouthCredit: GettyGlide through Scarecastle Tunnel in StaffordshireCredit: Canal & River Trust
The Creepy Circus, Zombie Apocalypse party & more, Weymouth – £2.75pp
Head on a haunted trail through Weymouth this October, and meet the cast of theCreepy Circus (made up of live actors) along the way…
Beginning in the city centre, you will explore the seaside town as a team, stopping to collect clues from witches and mystery circus characters.
The trail takes place from October 25 – November 1, from 10am – 6pm daily and costs £2.75pp.
Plus if you’re in Weymouth on Halloween night, there’s a Zombie Apocalypse party at The Donkey Social with totally free entry. Fancy dress is encouraged, and there’s prizes up for grabs, too.
Wizard School & more in Southampton – from £4
There’s plenty of spooky happenings in Southampton this October, with options for families of all ages.
Tudor House will offer free admission on October 30 on a Halloween-themed open day. The site is Southampton’s oldest museum, and was built in the late 15th century.
There will also be additional themed crafts, face painting and more from £4.
Families visiting on October 26 or 27 can take part in ‘Wizard School’ sessions, and even create their own wand to take home (£8 per child).
Scarecastle, Staffordshire- £5
Brave the dark depths of a two-mile long underground canal tunnel on a spooky ‘Scarecastle’ boat trip this October.
The tunnel opened in 1777, and helped to connect the Midlands canal network to Stoke-on-Trent and beyond.
Running daily from October 25 to 31, this historic tunnel is transformed into a floating Halloween tour packed with surprises.
Tickets cost £5 each. Pre-book your spot in advance online.
£10 and under
Take on the Enchanted Forest and Woodland Witches trail at Stockeld ParkCredit: Alamy
Southampton Ghost Tour – £10pp
The Southampton Ghost tour winds through underground medieval vaults and includes visits to haunted historic buildings such as the Merchants Hall, Tudor House and The Red Lion pub (which boasts an impressive 21 ghosts)
It starts at 6pm on Halloween night, but if you can’t make this one there are more options with various dates hosted by the likes of Dark Encounters and Get Your Guide.
Halloween at Stockeld Park, Yorkshire – from £9pp
At Yorkshire’s Stockeld Park, families can explore an Enchanted Forest on a Woodland Witches trail, tackle interactive challenges and even take on a giant Mummy Maze.
Beyond the witchy fun, there are tractor rides to pumpkin patches and even a Zombie Laser Tag arena.
For a special after-dark treat, you can grab tickets to the brand new Pumpkin Nights to watch spectacular fire-eating shows under the stars.
The events run every weekend throughout October, with event tickets priced individually. The cheapest event costs £9pp.
£15 and under
Explore the autumn colorus of the great outdoors this October with walking trailsCredit: AlamyCastle Howard Arboretum has 120 acres of woodland and rare red squirrels to seeCredit: PA
Illuminated Halloween trail, Moors Valley Country Park and Forest, Dorset – £14 per adult, £8 per child
As darkness falls, Moors Valley begins to glow with a spectacular illuminated Halloween trail packed with eerie encounters.
Wander beneath towering giant skeletons, dodge creepy characters like manic barbers, and tip-toe through a creepy carnivorous garden.
The route also features a brilliant food village where you can stop to sip a hot chocolate or toast some marshmallows.
The event takes place from October 23 – November 1. Pre-book timed entry tickets online, costing £15.75 for adults and £13 for children.
Kew Gardens is teaming up with Hey Duggee for an autumnal outdoor adventure trail for little ones this October half-term.
Kids can grab a map and explore the famous gardens while taking on interactive challenges, stopping to collect Squirrel Club badge stamps along the way.
After earning their final badge and grabbing a quick photo with a Duggee sculpture, there’s plenty more to explore such as the Children’s Garden.
Running daily from October 17 – November 1, the trail is completely free with standard garden entry. You can bag £10 entry tickets if you visit on a Tuesday throughout autumn.
Castle Howard Arboretum, North Yorkshire – from £12.75 per adult, £8.50 per child
Visit Castle Howard Arboretum this October half-term for a spectacular display of autumn colours across 120 acres of beautiful woodland.
After exploring hidden glades and tranquil lakes, you can sit down for a family meal in the cosy on-site cafe.
Make sure to look out for the resident red squirrels, named David Attenborough and Cinnamon.
Enjoy getting out in the fresh air this half term, with adult tickets from £12.75 and kids from £8.50.
Welsh School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, Carmarthenshire – £10pp
Pack your broomsticks, as the British Bird of Prey Centre is transforming into the Welsh School of Witchcraft and Wizardry this October half term.
Trainee wizards can get stuck into a timetable of spooky activities, including crafting their own wands and brewing potions.
You can also upgrade for £10 to a masterclass where you’ll learn how to fly an owl and more.
The event runs from October 26 – November 1, with all standard classes and bird shows included in your regular centre admission ticket (£14 per adult, £8.50 per child).
“THIS can’t be it, can it?” I thought as I gazed up and down the road.
Instead of the ornate Athens streets I’d become used to, here were rundown second-hand electrical shops, smashed windows and crude graffiti.
The iconic Athens skyline is a sight to beholdCredit: GettyThe bustling cafes in the Plaka quarterCredit: Getty
I checked my phone map.
Sure enough, tucked beneath a battered cellar door, flush in the pavement, was the entrance to Diporto, one of the city’s best-kept culinary secrets.
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Friends had tipped me off about this basement taverna in the Omonia district, serving real-deal Greek soul food and wine and, despite its dodgy entrance, it delivered in spades.
When most people think of Greek food, light salad dishes and dips spring to mind.
Out go the chilled dips, replaced by steaming pots of revithia (rich chickpea stew simmered with olive oil and lemon), piping-hot tomato and potato soups, grilled fish straight off the coals, and thick slabs of crusty sourdough.
Sitting next to massive vintage wine barrels, sipping house red from a metal jug, I was in food heaven.
Family-run bakery Feyrouz was another amazing spot secreted away down an alleyway, the heady scent of cumin, za’atar and toasted pine nuts wafting into the street.
The Sun’s Ryan Gray at the must-see AcropolisCredit: SuppliedThe tasty food at DiportoCredit: Alamy
Its signature street food includes lahmacun, a crispy spiced flatbread and peynirli, sourdough pasties stuffed with halloumi and spices.
It’s no wonder Time Out crowned Athens the most underrated winter city break in Europe.
With temperatures back in the UK plummeting, I was grateful for the relative warmth of 15C during my January trip.
Winter had clearly chased the tourists away.
Gone were the packed market streets and endless crowds.
I was free to roam around the Acropolis unfettered by the masses that gather in the summer heat and able to really appreciate just how awesome a spot it truly is.
The columns of the Parthenon rise almost 50ft while the view from the hill it stands on is spectacular.
Without the summer heat haze, the crisp sunshine reveals Mount Lycabettus towering next to it and the Aegean Sea visible behind the urban sprawl that lies at its base.
The dining room at DiportoCredit: SuppliedThe surprise door to top eatery DiportoCredit: Alamy
Thousands of years on, this ancient wonder hasn’t lost its magic.
Such remains are commonplace throughout Athens, with Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Olympian Zeus just some of the amazing ancient spots you find yourself wandering around, just a stone’s throw from the city centre.
Even in January, cafe culture is alive and kicking.
Wrapped in fleece blankets, locals huddle under outdoor patio heaters, sipping hot rakomelo (honeyed spiced brandy) in the historic Plaka quarter.
I climbed Mars Hill to catch the sunset over the city — an experience that’s usually a shoulder-to-shoulder fight in July, but in winter felt like my own private viewing platform.
What’s more, hotels are far cheaper in the winter, the lack of demand stretching your money much further than in the busier months.
This gave me the opportunity to try out a hotel chain I’d never used before and I was once again pleasantly surprised.
Bob W, which stands for “best of both worlds”, markets itself as somewhere between a local homestay and a lifestyle hotel.
They team up with nearby restaurants and cafes to bring locally produced food to your door in the morning for breakfast, while partnerships with local gyms mean guests have access included in the price of their stay, as well as the chance to join in with yoga classes and other sessions.
For just £40 a night at Bob W Akadimia, I had a sizeable design-conscious modern apartment, complete with a comfy double bed, living room area, huge bathroom with rainfall shower and a kitchenette.
It’s very tech forward — with check-in and even access to your room done via mobile phone — and all apartments feature high-speed wifi and smart TVs.
I would definitely recommend spending a night or two with Bob, much as I would visiting Athens for a little winter break.
Its combination of hearty winter stews, incredible archaeology, warmer weather and quiet, tourist-free streets means you can have a wonderful time getting to know the city properly before the summer rush transforms it into almost a different place.
GO: ATHENS
GETTING THERE: Fly direct to Athens in winter with easyJet from Gatwick and Manchester with returns from £79.
NOT only is the Algarve one of Europe’s most affordable holiday destinations, but also still gets some great October warmth.
But if you want to avoid the crowds, there are some barely-known-to-Brits islands that are just of the coast where you can enjoy gloriously quiet beaches.
Don’t skip over Faro when heading to the AlgarveCredit: GettyIlha Deserta is the place for Caribbean like sandsCredit: Alamy
To get to the Algarve, most Brits will fly into Faro before heading over to their resort along the coast.
But I highly recommend staying in the city as it is home to Ria Formosa, a group of islands.
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I was told about the islands by a local, as I had never heard about them or even seen them promoted as a holiday destination.
But just a few euros by boat (taking around 20 minutes) you’ll find empty beaches that rival Caribbean.
But don’t expect to see any huge holiday resorts or even houses, as no-one lives on the island.
Instead, the boardwalk stretches around the coastline, making it a gloriously peaceful walk.
There is one building on the island, however, which is a restaurant called Estamine.
It first opened in the 1960s, but sadly burnt down in 2021.
Thankfully it has since been rebuilt and it’s worth the boat ride – after all, where else can you go to a desert-like island just to see a restarant?
The only thing on the island? Estamine RestaurantCredit: Unknown
The huge glass windows mean you still get fantastic views, albeit the Portuguese wine and freshly caught fish help too.
Otherwise if you want something a bit more built up, try Isla Armona instead.
There are a few houses and cafes, with a pathway winding through the boat pier to the beach.
Yet that peace and quiet remains, with the stone cottages covered with flowers and tiled patterns.
Get to the soft sand and you can grab an ice cream and a drink before sitting on the beautifully quiet beach.
It still remains quiet however – the boat gets onto the island at one end, with along single path winding through the tiny cottages to the beach on the other side.
However, this beach is just as quiet, with just a small bar serving drinks and snacks.
Now is a great time to go – it’s 27C next week and you can still get flights to Faro for under £20.
If you need somewhere to stay, I highly recommend splashing out on 3HB, which was Faro’s first 5* hotel.
Rooftop restaurant, chic bedrooms and friendly staff all make it worth the stay.
Parking will be vastly improved, too – in the first five years there will be two new car parking areas for flyers.
Nick Barton, Chief Executive Officer at Birmingham Airport Limited, said: “The £2bn proposed investment is unprecedented at Birmingham Airport and will take our airport close to 30m passengers.
“This level of ambition sends a strong signal of support and confidence in our airport and wider region.”
Birmingham Airport has assured local residents that in 2041, the noise impact will be similar to how it is today because of quieter aircraft.
They have also said they will be net zero by 2033; they list energy efficiency, alternative fuels and renewable electricity as a few reasons why.
The West Midlands Mayor, Richard Parker, said: “It’s set to bring thousands of new jobs, better international links, and unlock vital backing for local businesses and supply chains.
“This consultation gives local people and business owners a chance to have their say and help shape the airport’s expansion so that it brings lasting benefits for our communities.”
Mont Blanc is hiding behind the clouds, but the Aiguille du Midi spears the sky above a mountainside ablaze with russet, gold and tawny tones. The maples flare red; rowan trees are dusted with crimson berries.
Our little group has trundled up to Mont Lachat station (altitude: 2,115 metres) on the Tramway du Mont Blanc, the century-old cog railway that climbs improbably steep slopes from the French alpine town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. Operational since 1909, the railway was once intended to reach the 4,809-metre summit of Mont Blanc, but war, glacial terrain and waning funds put an end to that ambition. But even from Mont Lachat, the view is a showstopper. On one side, the Bionnassay Glacier slips scenically down the slope, a buzzard soaring over the milky-green glacial lake at its base, while on the other the Chamonix valley basks in soft autumnal sunshine.
Autumn is golden season in the Alps, when you can find quieter hiking trails, lower prices and air crisp enough to stir the senses without nipping your fingers. Once focused purely on winter sports, the region’s resorts have spent years building up their summer credentials to offer hiking and biking through flower-strewn meadows. Now they’re marketing their shoulder season, too, to meet a growing demand for off-peak escapes.
The little spa town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, 50 minutes from Geneva and sandwiched between its glitzier neighbours Chamonix and Megève, is perfectly placed to take advantage of this trend. Unlike many resorts, the town of 5,800 doesn’t fall silent once the snow (or summer crowds) melts away, in large part thanks to its thermal waters, which were discovered at the beginning of the 19th century.
A year-round gondola called Le Valléen now links the train station in the village of Le Fayet, farther down the slope where the thermal spa is located, to Saint-Gervais proper. Opened in late 2024, it means you can arrive by rail from London via Paris and reach the heart of the resort without needing a car. “If you go to Megève in the shoulder season there’s no one there,” says long-serving mayor Jean-Marc Peillex. “That’s not the case here. The secret is that instead of thinking about tourists, you think about the people who live here. Then the tourists will be happy too.”
A gondola heads up Aiguille du Midi. Photograph: KI Photography/Alamy
Saint-Gervais (850 metres) may lack Megève’s polish but it has its own quiet charm: a medieval fortified house, a 17th-century church with geometric stained glass windows, elegant belle époque buildings near the spa and a thriving market every Thursday. Several excellent restaurants stay open year round, and our hotel, the chocolate-box Coeur des Neiges, offers rooms at less than half the summer or winter rate, making it an ideal base for autumnal exploring.
From here we take the Mont Blanc tramway one stop to Motivon, at 1,400 metres, then hike for an hour without seeing another soul; the only sound is the gentle clanging of cowbells. Our destination is the Distillerie Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc, one of Europe’s highest microdistilleries at 1,365m. It’s actually set in a converted donkey shed with windows framing pine forests and plunging valleys, shelves fashioned from old skis and two gleaming copper distillation stills.
This is where Scotsman James Abbott, kilt and all, produces some 450 bottles a year of single malt whisky (in a Speyside style), along with vodka, the traditional herbal liqueur génépi and a superb mountain gin infused with ingredients such as blueberries and wild herbs from the nearby slopes.
The Tramway du Mont Blanc, the century-old cog railway that climbs ‘improbably steep slopes’. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy
“The locals noticed that when I went to parties, I took whisky, not wine,” James laughs. “They said: ‘Why don’t you make your own – you drink enough of it.’” It turns out he does it rather well: the whisky sells for €95, the gin for €50, and both go down beautifully after a day in the mountain air before we hop back on the tramway.
Although the tramway stops running from the end of September, there’s no shortage of scenic hiking trails fanning straight out from town which are accessible later in the year, plus a free, year-round bus service linking the villages that make up the commune of St-Gervais. We’re due to take it the next morning for a walk from Saint-Nicolas-de-Véroce, whose baroque church is resplendent with blue-and-gold interiors and frescoed ceilings, but a heavy rainstorm postpones our plans.
That’s not a problem when just down the road (or a free cog lift ride down the mountainside) are Les Thermes de Saint-Gervais, which have been soothing weary bodies since 1806, when notary Joseph-Marie Gontard discovered the springs. The mineral-rich waters, packed with sulphur, magnesium, calcium and zinc, bubble up from underground at 39C, feeding a three‑hour wellness circuit.
We drift between pools of different temperatures, move lazily from sauna to steam room, enjoy the rainforest spa and wallow outdoors as jets of water pummel our backs while the gondola glides silently overhead. Who cares about the rain?
Les Thermes de Saint-Gervais. Photograph: Leblanc Catherine/Alamy
By the time we emerge, the storm has cleared, so we continue to Saint-Nicolas. From here, a steep two‑hour trail winds up to the Refuge du Mont-Joly, a century-old wooden inn that smells of woodsmoke and melting cheese. Normally there are sweeping views of Mont Blanc from the terrace, but today the peaks are shrouded in cloud.
We might not be able to see the mountains but we can taste their produce, notably in the enormous portion of blueberry tart that follows a tartiflette big enough to satisfy a sumo wrestler. As I tuck in, snow begins to fall. By morning it will be gone, melted by the late-summer sun. But now it lies thick and soft outside, turning the world white, as if the Ice Queen from Narnia might step through the door at any moment. That’s autumn in the Alps for you.
The trip was provided by the Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc tourist board. Doubles at the Coeur des Neiges from €108 room-only, or from €76 room-only at Plan B at Le Fayet. The Refuge du Mont-Joly is closed from the end of March to late May, and from November to mid-December.
The Tramway du Mont Blanc now stops at the Nid d’Aigle lookout (2,380 metres), after the line was extended in July
IF the average holiday home isn’t quite cutting it with the kids, you’ll love these ones.
With whole role-play villages, ziplines and even ballpit rooms, these are the five best family-friendly Airbnbs in the UK.
Imagine at High Parks
Imagine at High Parks sleeps up to six and has a huge play village for kids insideCredit: Air BNBImaginations can run wild at the village shop, tearoom and stables with a rocking horseCredit: Air BNB
This pretty farmhouse might look like your average Airbnb – but inside, it has a secret wing that’s dedicated to children’s play.
It’s a paradise and will definitely inspire play as inside you’ll find a tearoom with an oven, cups and mugs and even a stable with a rocking horse.
The village shop has a real-life counter with a cash machine and around the corner is a cinema.
There’s also a hotel that is actually where the children’s rooms are and each is kitted out with single beds and made to feel cosy.
Outside there’s even more for kids to enjoy as there’s a huge wooden climbing frame with a basket swing, see-saw, toddler swing and slide.
The climbing fort is set amongst a huge garden so there’s plenty of room to run around too.
One visitor wrote: “I stayed with my two children aged 8 and 5, they were so excited when we arrived and said it was the best holiday house ever.”
As for the rest of the property, it can sleep up to six guests.
It has a light and airy living room with high ceilings, and wooden beams across the ceiling.
There’s also a modern kitchen with a dining area, the master bedroom is on a mezzanine level.
Three of the bedrooms have a single bed, two of which have views across the garden, and bedroom five has a cot.
Surrounding the house is a patio area, a great spot to sit and enjoy the views in the summertime.
Inside this farmhouse is a huge play room with a climbing frame and foosballCredit: AirbnbThere’s even a heated indoor swimming pool and outdoor playpark tooCredit: Airbnb
Tredethick Farm Cottages is in the top 10 per cent of homes on Airbnb and is a particular hit with families.
Inside, kids and teenagers will enjoy playing in the games barn which has a pool table, table tennis table, indoor slide and sand pit – the home even has an heated indoor swimming pool.
When the weather plays ball, children can enjoy the outdoor playpark and balance bike track.
As it’s on a working farm, there are morning animal feeding sessions held at least three times per week with the goats, pigs, chickens and guinea pigs.
In the summertime, guests can book pony experiences.
There’s also a heated indoor swimming pool for splashing about and a private garden for playing in.
Meanwhile, adults can take advantage of the hot tub and relaxing in front of the fireplace in the living area.
The home sleeps up to four guests in its two bedrooms, one with a king- size bed, the other with two singles.
A four-night stay in April 2027 for a family of four starts from £1,000 – or £62.50pppn.
Fun City Stay, Essex
You’d never expect this Airbnb in Essex to be a fun houseCredit: AlamyKids will love the soft play room that has its own ballpitCredit: Air BNB
Just outside of Colchester in Essex is this beautiful Grade-II home which looks like it should be a cosy retreat, and it is – but there are lots of surprises inside too.
Along with its open kitchen-diner, large living room and Disney-themed bedrooms is a play room called Narnia.
Not only is it a soft play, but it has a huge ball pit that children will love.
One visitor wrote in their review: “The soft play was a huge hit with the children and kept them entertained for hours!”
Another added: “We had a fantastic stay here for a family getaway! Everything was perfect. The soft play room was amazing for the children.”
In the kitchen is a seven-foot table that can transform into a pool and table tennis table.
In total, the home can sleep up to nine guests across its four bedrooms inspired by Disney’s Madagascar, Pirates of the Caribbean, The Jungle Book and Aladdin.
The Narnia room is available to book at an additional cost, as is the hot tub.
Country cottage and treehouse, Salisbury
The pretty cottage outside of Salisbury has its own hot tub and treehouseCredit: Air BNBFrom the treehouse, the whole family can check out the 100-foot zip lineCredit: AirBNB
This beautiful countryside cottage is tucked away in a private 80-acre woodland near Salisbury.
Next to the pretty Airbnb is where the kids are likely to spend most of their time – up in the treehouse.
Once up there the whole family can take it in turns zooming through the woodland on the 100-foot zipline.
It’s definitely a hit with previous visitors, one said: “So much space for the children to run around in, an incredible tree house with zip wire (just as much fun for the adults).”
Another added: “The kids were in their element with the zip line, treehouse, and lake-endless adventures right on the doorstep.
“It felt like a little paradise for them, and gave us all such a chance to properly switch off and enjoy time together.”
The home is nestled in a private 80-acre woodland near a secluded lake. Enjoy tranquil trekking trails, or relax by the secluded lake.
The country cottage has a kitchen, living room, bedroom and bathroom downstairs – the further two bedrooms are upstairs.
While the kids are enjoying the activities, parents can soak in the wood-fired Dutch tub.
On arrival there’s complimentary tea, coffee, sugar, 1 litre of organic milk, locally produced apple juice, cornflakes, oats and cereal from the hosts.
The home can sleep up to six guests across its three bedrooms.
The base price is based on a two person occupancy – it then increases by £40pppn (there is no charge for infants).
There’s an offer of 20 per cent off on weekly stays and 40 per cent off on monthly stays.
Halula’s House of Fun has its own ballpit room with a slideCredit: Air BNBOutside it has a climbing frame and trampolineCredit: Airbnb
For the ultimate family and friends holiday, the Halula’s House of Fun has it all.
It can sleep up to 21 guests – it also has a swimming pool, swim up bar, hot tub, indoor slide and ballpit and children’s play area.
The whole house will be like a play park for the kids thanks to its bright decor and plenty to do. One of the rooms has a rainbow slide that goes straight into the ballpit.
Kids will also love the huge movie room with snug sofas and projector screen.
Outside, there’s a climbing frame, playhouse, trampoline and play cars.
Between April and October, the outdoor swimming pool is open for business too.
All six bedrooms have their own theme – and there’s even a cosy book nook for bedtime stories.
It’s not just kids that will love this house, it’s possible parents might enjoy it even more, it has a pool house, bar and hot tub.
The home sleeps up to 21 guests across seven bedrooms
LOOKING for a new drink spot? Well, the best bars in the world have just been revealed.
The50 has just announced its list of the ultimate bars – and three of them are in the UK.
The Connaught Bar is the top bar UK bar on the world best listCredit: Kensington LeverneMoebius Milano came second on the list and is inside a former textile factoryCredit: The 50/PA
The Connaught Bar has been named the best UK bar on The50 list landing at number eight.
The publication praised it for its cocktails which “are near unimpeachable – a few of its signatures are genuine neo-classics – and the hospitality is as warm as it is indiscriminate”.
You’ll want to start saving for some of the cocktails though – opt for the The Vintage Martini Cocktail made from Gordon’s Dry gin 1970s, Martini Extra Dry vermouth 1970s and you’ll pay a whopping £150.
Another cocktail called the Silver Jubilee Rob Roy will set you back even more – a huge £2,210.
The judges particularly liked the new BRB cocktail that’s a “a melon-spiked paloma” which you can enjoy for a much more modest £26.
It’s reportedly a popular spot for celebrities too with the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Cameron Diaz and Taylor Swift having all checked into the Connaught Hotel.
Also on the list is Satan’s Whiskers which is in Bethnal Green and came in 29th spot.
It has a very different look to the Connaught Bar with a more grungy feel.
The judges recommended the bar’s Miami Vice which is a frozen strawberry daiquiri and piña colada in one glass.
Cocktails at the Connaught Bar can cost between £26 to £2,000
Another top UK bar called The Waltz has been described as a ‘serene hideaway in Shoreditch, and ‘a perfect little piece of Japan‘.
The menu is split into two sections; In Season and Evergreen – there there always new drinks to try especially as one is based on the 72 Micro-Seasons of the ancient Japanese calendar.
Going back to the very top of the list, the bar that landed in the top spot is Bar Leone in Hong Kong.
The 1970s Roman-inspired bar has with intimate lighting, vintage tiled floors where you can pick Italian classic cocktails like negronis, martinis, old fashioneds.
Alquimico in Columbia is inside a 100-year-old colonial mansionCredit: The 50/PAUp on the roof is an enormous terrace
This win means it has now won the top spot in The 50 Best Bars Asia and the global edition twice.
Second on the list is Moebius Milano in Milan which is inside a former textile warehouse.
The seating is situated around a huge 700-year-old olive tree that that is the height of two floors.
It has weekly live music performances from jazz, bossa nova to soul.
Bar Leone in Hong Kong has been voted the best bar in the worldCredit: The 50/PASatan’s Whiskers is another of the best bars in the world – and it’s in Bethnal GreenCredit: Satan’s Whiskers
This is followed by Alquímico in Cartagena which has an enormous open-air tropical-style tiki-bar.
It’s on the third floor of a 100-year-old colonial mansion where the bar is found.
Following on in fourth and fifth place is Bar Us in Bangkok, and Line in Athens.
Coming in sixth spot is the Handshake Speakeasy in Mexico City which has a secret underground basement bar where hip-hop is played and there are cocktails on tap.
FORGET kid-friendly Halloween events of pumpkin picking and trick or treating… this is the ULTIMATE nightmare zone.
This October marks 30 years since Tulleys Shocktober Fest first launched at Tulleys Farm near Three Bridges in Surrey.
The UK is home to Europe’s biggest scarefest with flamethrowers, live actors and chainsawsCredit: Cyann Fielding
If you are wondering what on earth a ‘Shocktober Fest’ is, it is exactly what it sounds like; a festival packed full of heart-stopping scares and 100 per cent adrenaline.
Tulleys Shocktober Fest is Europe’s largest scream park with 12 scare mazes full of live actors waiting to make you jump with real chainsaws (don’t worry, the chains have been removed), decaying dolls and a whole load of literal smoke and mirrors.
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Be warned: it is strictly not for the faint-hearted.
The haunts have varying levels of scariness but I took no notice, deciding to enter The Chop Shop first.
It felt like stepping straight into a morgue, with the temperature plunging the second I crossed the threshold.
The stench of oil and grease lingered in the air. Before I knew it I was standing in a garage beside a mangled car.
Out of the dark, a human-pig creature lunged at me with a chainsaw, squawking into my ear and setting the tone for the rest of my night.
Electrick Circus was next and certainly one to avoid if you have coulrophobia (an intense fear of clowns).
With sparks flying and sinister tricks lurking in the dingy corners, the abandoned circus was more like a scene ripped from a horror movie with Sparky the clown leading an army of dead clowns to make my stomach lurch.
Meanwhile, the award-winning Doom Town was the real-life version of Shaun of the Dead, complete with a zombie-infested Greggs takeaway where a worker chased me out when I was bold enough to ask for a sausage roll.
It’s at Tulleys Farm in Surrey, around half an hour from central LondonCredit: Unknown
The Village Coven of 13 sent my pulse through the roof.
The maze felt endlessly long, kicking-off in a pitch black room filled with thick smoke.
For what felt like hours, I stumbled disorientated in the dark desperately hoping to find the exit and not accidentally grab something more sinister.
The maze then spills outside to an eerie cemetery where witches lurk in the shadows, chanting spells over your shoulder.
The park has 12 different scare mazes to experienceCredit: JIM CAREY PHOTOGRAPHYAnd there are loads of live actors walking around to scare you as wellCredit: Tulleys FarmThere are thrill rides tooCredit: Tulleys FarmEven a Greggs has been taken over by zombies at the parkCredit: Unknown
One stalked me right up to a closed door but what awaited me on the other side was far worse.
Stepping through the gateway, I thought I had entered a furnace.
Mimicking witches being burnt at the stake, the room was scorching, thick with smoke and crawling with dark figures ready to scream down my neck.
I felt lucky to escape in one piece.
Other highlights include the award-winning Wasteland Penitentiary – an abandoned prison haunted by escaped inmates – alongside new scare mazes; Appleton Sawmill, Appleton Farm and The Cellar Returns.
All bring different scares, thrills and blood-curdling screams but for the ultimate test of your bravery though, try Hell-elements.
You’re hooded and forced to navigate through total darkness with only a small rope to guide you.
Deprived of my sight, I felt like the jump scares hit ten times harder.
New scare mazes for this year include Appleton Sawmill, Appleton Farm and The Cellar ReturnsCredit: Tulleys FarmAround the park there are plenty of food vendors too and barsCredit: Cyann Fielding
The maze plays on the four elements: chilly wind breeze past your neck, suffocating heat takes your breath away, damp mist sends a shiver down your spine and the scent of fresh earth overwhelms your senses.
Not being able to see the scare actors felt like a blessing in disguise until one breathed wetly on my collarbone.
Outside the mazes you aren’t safe either and if you arrive thinking you can avoid frights, then you are VERY naive.
Around the entire attraction, scare actors roam ready to pounce on you at every unsuspecting moment.
The production is staggering with the attention to detail being Hollywood-level from the cinematic sounds and flicking lights to minute cracks down brick walls and huge cauldrons with roaring fire.
There’s thrill rides too and a new show called House of Hades for when you need a break from the haunts, with transfixing fire stunts and daredevil performers – it is tantalising, thrilling and super sexy.
You won’t go hungry either as there are food vendors around the entire grounds from huge chicken burgers to tasty pasta dishes – though you’ll have to fork out extra cash for these.
There are loads of bars as well, with alcoholic drinks reasonably priced.
Tickets range from around £60ppCredit: TulleysThough I would recommend getting fast tracksCredit: Cyann Fielding
Imagine all your worst nightmares in one place and that’s what you’ll get out of Tulleys Shocktober Fest… I couldn’t think of a better way to test my bravery this spooky season.
What to know about visiting
There are a variety of different tickets available with the most popular being the XScream Pass costing between £46.95 to £69.95pp, depending when you visit.
It includes unlimited access to all haunts, park entry, street theatre, live music, food courts and free car parking.
Or you can get an XScream Pass with a number of fast tracks included.
For three fast tracks, it costs between £66.95 to £89.95, for six between £86.95 to £109.95 and for one for each maze (12 total) it costs between £126.95 to £149.95.
With previous visitors noting that queues can be as long as two hours for a single maze on some nights, I would definitely recommend purchasing a ticket with at least three fast tracks included.
The dates further away from Halloween are likely to have less wait times at each haunt, which is worth bearing in mind too.
The attraction is for teens and adults, though I think this one should certainly be left for those brave enough and with a healthy heart.
The nearest train station is Three Bridges, which is less than half an hour from central London.
You’ll then need to jump in a taxi for five to 10 minutes to get to the farm.
And be warned, all that screaming may leave you without your voice the next day…
While none of the routes are new for Brits, more routes also mean lower prices.
The flights are already on sale, with the cheaper options if you book sooner rather than later.
The Greek island of Rhodes is getting two new flight routesCredit: AlamyCity break destinations like Porto will also be easier to get toCredit: Alamy
Ryanair CMO Dara Brady, said: “These are the first of our new Summer 2027 routes to go on sale, with more exciting additions to be announced as Ryanair continues to expand Europe’s largest route network.
“Customers looking to secure the lowest fares for their Summer 2027 travel should head to the Ryanair app/website and book now to get ahead of the curve.”
Virgin has offered a first glimpse into its new cross-Channel rail service that will provide services between London, Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam in one of its striking, high-speed trains
The new Virgin rail service will provide additional services from London to Paris(Image: Getty Images)
Virgin has offered a sneak peek at its new high-speed trains that will provide daily services from the UK to three major European destinations. The new cross-Channel rail service is set to rival Eurostar, with anticipation already building ahead of its launch, which is currently expected for 2030.
Plans include 20 daily return services between London, Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam as part of the new cross-Channel offering. With an estimate of about 7.5million seats every year, it’s expected to make it even easier for travellers to journey between the UK and European hotspots, while boosting tourism and creating up to 1,000 new jobs.
The rail operator offered a sneak peek of its trains with renderings of the sleek, futuristic black-and-red train, which the company says will be able to reach speeds of up to 300km/h. The firm has also hinted that it will recreate the likes of Virgin Atlantic’s Clubhouses as “pre-departure and onboard social spaces” where passengers can relax before their journey.
Passengers will be able to earn Virgin Points when using the rail service through their Virgin Red loyalty platform, which can then be redeemed on future train journeys, flights, hotels, cruises and other experiences.
Josh Bayliss, CEO of Virgin Group, said: “Virgin has a proud history in UK rail. With our latest venture we are drawing on more than four decades of experience across travel and hospitality to create something genuinely new. This time, we’ll be connecting London with some of Europe’s greatest cities and giving passengers a distinctive new choice in cross-Channel travel.
“Virgin has always thrived on challenging the status quo and aimed to provide our customers with a great experience. We’ll bring the same approach to the cross-Channel route, making the journey something to look forward to as much as the destination.
“We’re confident that more journeys between the UK and Europe will be made by train. We’re adding capacity for millions more international rail journeys each year, growing the market as a whole. We’re looking forward to seeing our distinctive red and black trains travelling across Europe.”
Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com
This means the driver alone oversees both the train’s movement and door operations, rather than having a second conductor on board.
The dispute centres on the first stage of the new railway, serving six stations between Oxford and Milton Keynes.
Trains on this route will stop at Oxford, Oxford Parkway, Bicester Village, Winslow, Bletchley and Milton Keynes Central.
According to RMT general secretary Eddie Dempsey, the proposals would be a “significant risk” to safety and existing train manager roles.
He added: “RMT will not accept the watering down of safety on the rail network.”
However, Chiltern Railways has rejected the claim that the new services would compromise passenger safety.
Interim managing director Tony Baxter said: “We have run most of our trains with the driver in control of the doors for decades, safely and as approved by the independent rail regulator.
“It also means over 100 new permanent jobs at Chiltern, and no changes to the roles of existing colleagues.”
The operator also stressed that every East West Rail train will have two staff members on board – a driver, and a colleague to look after and assist passengers and check tickets.
The company has said it remains committed to working with RMT to solve the dispute.
What changes will be in place over the weekend?
According to Chiltern Railways’ website, the majority of passengers will “experience a near normal train service”.
There will be no services for Stratford-upon-Avon or Leamington Spa for the entire day.
Passengers will instead need to travel via Dorridge, taking a West Midlands Railway service between Stratford-upon-Avon and Dorridge.
Customers have been assured that tickets will be valid via Dorridge at no additional cost.
A further four long distance services will only operate part of their journeys:
0644 Stourbridge Junction to London Marylebone – will start at Banbury
0819 Stourbridge Junction to London Marylebone – will start at Birmingham Moor Street
1802 London Marylebone to Stourbridge Junction will terminate at Birmingham Moor Street
1932 London Marylebone to Stourbridge Junction will terminate at Banbury
Certain trains in and out of London Marylebone will have additional stops at Wembley Arena for passengers heading to the Girlguiding Big Gig pop concert.
IF you’re after an insanely affordable holiday, then there is a fantastic travel website you need to know about.
Opodo offers flights, hotels, car hire and package holiday deals for prices that will make you do a double take.
Opodo offers incredibly affordable package holidays, as well as deals for individual flights and hotelsCredit: Getty
We’ve found hotels in Marrakech from £16, return flights to Barcelona from £21 and even entire Tenerife holidays from £147pp, to name but a few.
So whether you’re looking to book a family holiday, a couples getaway or even a solo travel retreat, here’s our round-up of the best Opodo deals right now.
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Browse affordable deals on Opodo – package hols from £92pp
Alicante – £117pp
Visit Postiguet Beach on a trip to Alicante, Spain from £117pp with OpodoCredit: Getty
Hop on a two-and-a-half-hour flight over to Alicante to soak up some rays on a stunning stretch of Spanish coast, with sizzling highs of 25°C in October.
Postiguet is the main beach here, sitting at the foot of Mount Benacantil and watched over by Santa Barbara Castle.
Once you’re done topping up your tan, you can hike up to the spectacular castle to soak up panoramic views of the Mediterranean coastline for free.
With package deals from £117pp, a quick sunny Spanish getaway might be closer than you’d think.
Browse Alicante package holidays from £117pp
Rome – £119pp
Visiting the Colosseum is free on the first Sunday of every monthCredit: Alamy
You do not need to spend a fortune to visit Rome, with Opodo’s package holiday deals starting from £119pp.
Rome is a giant, open-air museum where simply wandering the cobbled streets to toss a coin in the Trevi Fountain or marvel at the Pantheon costs absolutely nothing.
Plus if you time your trip to include the first Sunday of the month, visits to state museums, attractions and even the Colosseum offer free entry.
Head across the river to the buzzing Trastevere neighbourhood for authentic €3 pizza by the slice and €5 Aperol Spritzes.
Browse Rome package holidays from £119pp
Cheap flights
Here’s our selection of bargain flights we found with Opodo Prime
If you’re signed up to Opodo Prime, you can bag super cheap flights like the ones we’ve found below.
Opodo Prime plans start from £8.99 a month and can save you hundreds per year on flights, hotels and more.
Tenerife stays warm in the winter and is only a four hour flight away from the UKCredit: Getty
Tenerife is a classic, affordable winter sun destination, with highs of 26°C in October and still sitting at toasty highs of 24°C in November.
The flight is only four hours from the UK for these sunny temperatures, and once you’re there, there are loads of ways to enjoy all that sunshine.
Stroll the sweeping volcanic beaches of Costa Adeje, enjoy €3 tapas in traditional tavernas or go whale watching on an unforgettable boat tour.
Make sure to check out Siam Park, a paradise for waterpark fans which has been crowned the world’s No.1 waterpark for 10 consecutive years by Tripadvisor.
Browse Tenerife package holidays from £147pp
Athens – £162pp
Tick off a trip to the impressive city of Athens in Greece from £162pp with OpodoCredit: Getty
Ancient historical sites, snazzy rooftop bars, amazing Greek food – Athens is an underrated choice when it comes to city breaks.
The famous Acropolis of Athens is a must-visit. To stretch your cash, buy a €30 combo ticket which gets you into seven major archaeological sites.
When it comes to cheap eats, you can grab some delicious pork or chicken gyros stuffed with chips and tzatziki for around €3, before hitting the bars for a €2 Mythos beer.
This deal includes a stay at the Sparta Team Hotel, which is only a 12-minute taxi ride or 20-minute walk away from the Acropolis.
Browse Athens package holidays from £162pp
Cheap hotels
Here’s our selection of bargain hotels we found on Opodo (prices per night)
Paris – £92pp
Stroll along the Seine in Paris for fantastic views of the city and its famous landmarksCredit: Alamy
Enjoy a chic getaway to the French Capital with friends or your partner for under £100 each.
Take in the city with strolls along the Seine, or venture to the cobbled hills of Montmartre to take in sweeping views of the city from the Sacre-Coeur basilica.
For a budget-friendly feast, skip the expensive restaurants and hit up a local boulangerie. Grab a fresh baguette, a wedge of creamy brie, and a cheap bottle of supermarket wine for a delicious Parisian picnic.
Midcentury pop culture expert Charles Phoenix thinks Long Beach gets a bad rap.
“It is very underrated in the grand scheme of all of Southern California, but there is a lot to see and do there,” says the Ontario native, who uses the word “time-honored” repeatedly when describing his favorite attractions in the seaside community. “I often refer to it — under my breath — as the New Jersey of Los Angeles. It doesn’t get much respect, yet it’s loaded with attractions.”
In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.
When he isn’t gushing over Long Beach, the humorist and author hosts nostalgic slideshows and double-decker open-air bus tours of Midcentury architecture during Modernism Week in Palm Springs. His next event, “LosAngelesland,” is a lively retro slideshow featuring vintage Kodachrome slides taken by Los Angeles locals and tourists in the 1950s and ’60s. The show is scheduled for Oct. 17 during Modernism Week’s October festival in Palm Springs and a Halloween-themed version on Oct. 24 at the Anaheim Fall Festival. Phoenix will also present “Disneyland: Live Retro Slide Show Celebrating the Original Magic Kingdom in the 1950s & ’60s!” at the Hilbert Museum in Orange on Oct. 18.
Phoenix lives in a Midcentury Modern home in Claremont, but he’s always happy to spend a day in Long Beach. His ideal Sunday includes eating clam chowder-topped biscuits at a floating restaurant, shopping for vintage treasures along 4th Street Retro Row, cruising around Naples in an electric Duffy boat and ending the day at a classic diner from 1939.
“There’s more to do in Long Beach,” he says. “I could keep going, but there’s only so much space in this column.”
This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.
8 a.m.: Wake up early and say thanks
When I wake up, I usually have nonfat yogurt, chopped walnuts and one or two types of fresh fruit. Then I walk through my house, and whatever room I walk in first — either the living room or the den and say, “I love you, house.” Those are the first words I speak out loud.
10 a.m.: Drive to the coast for lunch on a floating restaurant
We’re going to start at the only floating restaurant I know of in the Western United States, the Chowder Barge. It stands out on its own, although it’s a bit tricky to find, so it’s a good thing we have GPS or we might never get there. It’s a little bit tiki, a little bit pirate and a little bit seafarer. There’s always an old wizard-like man sitting in the corner with a long beard that reaches the floor. When you’re on the barge and a boat passes by, you can feel it. The best thing there is their fried clams and clam chowder, which you can eat in a bowl or use the chowder as gravy. For breakfast, you could have biscuits topped with clam chowder instead of gravy. It’s the best clam chowder ever. If you want fried clams on top of the biscuits, that’s incredibly delicious. They also have an open-faced hamburger covered with clam chowder and fried clams or just clam chowder.
The place has a deep soul, and everything there is unique and time-honored.
1 p.m.: Go vintage shopping on Retro Row
Next I would go shopping on 4th Street, a.k.a. Retro Row, which is absolutely, in no uncertain terms, the best vintage shopping street in the Western United States — probably the Eastern and Midwestern as well. There are three stores there that I concentrate heavily on. The first is Sneaky Tiki Boutique, which is the destination of all destinations for what I wear all spring and summer and fall — vintage Hawaiian shirts from the ’50s and ’60s. They’re not Hawaiian shirts unless they’re made in Hawaii. Nobody has a better supply than Sneaky Tiki. I mean nobody.
A couple of doors down is another world-class vintage store, Meow. Meow is an institution in the world of vintage clothing, shoes and accessories. And it’s absolutely a spectacular themed environmental extravaganza, as is Sneaky Tiki. There are all kinds of vintage in there. So it is a feast for the senses and your wardrobe and accessory needs.
And then for your Midcentury home decor needs, there’s Xcape Modern. They’ve been there for probably 30 years, and it’s a little mumbo jumbo as far as the way it’s all laid out. It’s a little messy, but they have incredible Midcentury furniture and home decor, including patio items. It’s a spectacular, well-curated collection.
3 p.m.: Explore Rancho Los Alamitos
After that, I’d take a quick late-afternoon scamper around Rancho Los Alamitos. It’s really special, and it’s free, F-R-E-E, free. It’s this gorgeous, time-honored place; basically, you’re walking back into time. The family started building it in 1790 and finished in 1834. I love to look around and walk through the layers of time. The house is beautiful. The barn is beautiful. There are animals there too. It reminds me a little bit of old-timey Knott’s Berry Berry Farm. Chickens walk around, and it just has, again, this deep soul, layers of time, mature garden. And it’s impeccably kept, impeccably groomed. You can spend 20 minutes walking around there or you could spend four hours. And of course, the garden is absolutely out of this world.
It’s its own little world. It doesn’t know the rest of the world exists, which is the kind of place that I really, really love — a place that’s true to itself, time-honored and lost in its own wonderland. You know, it’s just so special to be able to escape to such a rarefied environment.
5 p.m.: Go for a ride on a Duffy Boat in Naples
From there, get ready for my favorite thing to do in Southern California: taking a Duffy Boat ride around Naples. I always rent from Anchors Away. The boats remind me of the Jungle Cruise at Disneyland. Most are white and blue, but a couple of years ago, around the time of the Barbie movie, they added some bright pink ones. You can pay a little extra for the pink boats, but the blue and white ones are just as fun. The boats seat about eight to 10 people, and you rent them for two hours and just cruise around. The canals are much bigger than those in Venice. They give you a map and two hours to enjoy the water. I usually drive the boat while my friends bring drinks, cookies, snacks and whatever they want to drink. I had no experience before my first time, but it’s easy and relaxing. It’s never crowded, the homes are beautiful, and of course, I always wear a captain’s hat.
8 p.m.: Late–night snack at a 1939 diner
After that, even if we’ve already had plenty to eat and drink, we usually end up at one of my favorite diners, Harbor House Cafe, on Pacific Coast Highway in Sunset Beach. It’s been open since 1939. So we drive a couple of miles down PCH, pile into the Harbor House and finish the day with whatever we want — dessert, more dessert, onion rings or a milkshake. It’s our spot to unwind. The onion rings are especially good. It’s an easy, time-honored place, just like everywhere I love to go. I like to soak in the history. After we leave, everyone heads home, and I drive back up the 605 Freeway to Claremont.
EasyJet chief executive Kenton Jarvis announced that the airline is removing a further 600,000 to 700,000 seats from its winter schedule, on top of 700,000 that have already been cancelled
The airline has cut over a million seats(Image: Reinhard Krull/Getty Images)
EasyJet is cutting thousands of flights this winter, with customers urged to check one date before their flight is due to depart.
EasyJet chief executive Kenton Jarvis told reporters in Brussels on 8 Octoberthat the airline is removing a further 600,000 to 700,000 seats from its winter schedule because of elevated fuel costs. This comes after it announced around 700,000 seats would be removed earlier this year, bringing the total reduction to between 1.3 million and 1.4 million seats.
EasyJet CEO Kenton Jarvis told the FT: “People are taking capacity out, we see that across all competitors,” adding that was “no surprise” given fuel costs. However, he admitted that the high cost of fuel had not been expected. “I honestly think it’s been quite a surprise for the industry that fuel has stayed as high as it is,” he said.
Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com
Jet fuel costs have doubled following the start of the Iran conflict, which led to the closure of the Strait of Hormuz. Although prices have started to fall, they remain far higher than airlines expected when the war began.
EasyJet passengers have been urged to check their tickets for one date. If your booking is cancelled, you may not get paid compensation. Whether you do or not depends on your flight date, when you were notified of the cancellation, the reason recorded for that particular cancellation and the timings of the replacement journey.
Under the law UK261, passengers notified between seven and 14 days before departure are entitled to compensation unless the replacement leaves no more than two hours earlier and arrives less than four hours later . Passengers notified fewer than seven days before departure are entitled to compensation, unless the replacement leaves no more than one hour earlier and arrives less than two hours later.
Compensation ranges from £220 to £520 depending on the distance, unless easyJet proves that extraordinary circumstances caused the cancellation. It is unlikely that they will be able to in this instance. Passengers notified at least 14 days before departure are not entitled to fixed compensation, although their refund or rerouting rights remain fully intact.
Refund and rerouting rights apply separately. Passengers who still need to travel should therefore compare the proposed replacement before accepting a refund. If another airline can reach the destination significantly sooner, the CAA says the passenger may have the right to be rerouted on that alternative service.
An easyJet spokesperson said: “Like all airlines, we review our schedule on an ongoing basis and sometimes make some changes. The changes to our winter flying represent a tiny proportion of our flying programme. We make any changes in advance and typically choose multi-daily frequency flights so customers can easily move to an alternative flight.”
The airline originally released more than 25 million seats across almost 138,000 flights between 19 October and 31 January, giving an average of approximately 181 seats per flight. On that basis, the latest reduction is equivalent to roughly 3,300 to 3,900 one-way flights, with the total winter cuts equivalent to approximately 7,200 to 7,700 one-way flights.
These are capacity estimates, not confirmed cancellation numbers. EasyJet has not published the affected routes, the proportion involving UK services or how many removed seats had already been sold. The airline has said it makes changes in advance and typically targets routes with several daily services so passengers can be transferred to another flight.
Anton Radchenko, aviation expert and CEO of AirAdvisor, said: “Airlines commonly describe these decisions as capacity management, but passenger-rights law examines the individual booking. If a flight was sold and subsequently withdrawn, the airline should be able to show when the passenger was informed, the specific reason that service was removed and what comparable rerouting was offered; a general reference to higher fuel costs would not, by itself, establish extraordinary circumstances.
“The most revealing cases will be passengers transferred between services on a route that operates several times a day. Moving someone from a morning flight to an evening departure may appear to be a straightforward consolidation. Still, the resulting arrival time can change the compensation position, and the existence of a substantially earlier flight with another carrier may determine whether the rerouting offered genuinely met the earliest-opportunity requirement.”
“Passengers affected by a schedule change should retain the original itinerary, the timestamped cancellation email and every replacement option offered. Those three records will be considerably more important to an individual claim than the airline’s overall capacity figure.”
A new passport rule will be introduced across 13 airports from this month, and it’s good news for holidaymakers as it could allow for a smoother travel experience
10:29, 09 Oct 2026Updated 12:18, 09 Oct 2026
Going through border control after landing back in the UK is about to get easier for British passport holders (Image: Getty Images)
Airports across the UK are rolling out new contactless technology that will allow Brits to pass through the e-gates without presenting their passports. This is due to an enhanced facial recognition system that will capture the returning passenger’s face at the e-gates and cross-reference it with their passport photograph already stored on file.
The upgraded technology, being introduced at the e-gates of 13 UK airports, will help to speed up security checks and is said to dramatically cut queues by up to 25 per cent, according to the Home Office. It will also provide British passport holders with a smoother journey home, as they no longer need to rummage around for their document or face lengthy border control queues.
Phil Douglas, director general of Border Force, said: “This is a win for travellers coming to our brilliant country. By using state-of-the-art technology, we are making journeys smoother and faster, all while fully maintaining the UK’s robust border security. Our digital transformation also builds on our work this summer to extend eGates to children aged eight and above, making life a little easier for families.”
To make the process more efficient, it’s been reported that airlines would forward passport photos of their British passengers to border control at each airport on the day of arrival, which would then be uploaded onto the e-gates system. Douglas added: “Because we know who’s coming and can load up that gallery of who is arriving, it’s not a one in 60 million check, it’s a one in tens of thousands check [because the system only needs to check against the passports of passengers travelling on that particular day].”
The phased introduction of the revamped system began on Tuesday, 6 October, and will initially launch at Birmingham and East Midlands airports over the coming weeks. By early next year, the new ‘contactless borders’ will be rolled out across other UK airports already equipped with e-gates.
Steve Griffiths, managing director of East Midlands Airport, said: “We’re delighted to be the first UK airport to have contactless eGates introduced by Border Force. As an airport committed to providing an effortless travel experience, we welcome any technological innovation that can help to safely make our customers’ journeys smoother, swifter and simpler. This complements changes that we carried out to our immigration hall recently to help improve the flow of arriving passengers through the area.”
Full list of 13 UK airports impacted
Birmingham Airport
Bristol Airport
Cardiff Airport
East Midlands Airport
Edinburgh Airport
Glasgow Airport
London City Airport
London Gatwick Airport
London Heathrow Airport
London Luton Airport
London Stansted Airport
Manchester Airport
Newcastle International Airport
While the system will initially be introduced for British passport holders using e-gates at UK airports, there are proposals to extend it to other nationalities holding biometric passports, including those from Europe, Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea, and the US. Officials hope it will streamline re-entry into the UK and prevent disruptions at border controls.
Passengers who cannot be identified at the e-gate under the new system would need to revert to the existing method and scan their passports instead. Should this also prove unsuccessful, they will be directed to a staffed border control desk where their passport will be manually verified.
Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com
A NATIONWIDE strike in Spain is expected to ‘bring the country to a complete standstill’ next month.
The industrial action will affect flights, public transport, shops, restaurants and museums.
Trips to Spain could be affected by a nationwide strike next monthCredit: Getty ImagesFlights are expected to be cancelled or face severe delays on November 11Credit: Getty
The shutdown is due to take place on November 11 when major trade unions in Spain will stage a 24-hour walkout.
The strike is protesting the escalating housing crisis – and it will be the country’s first joint general strike in almost 15 years.
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While it hasn’t been confirmed, flights across Spain are expected to face cancellations or delays.
Previous general strikes have heavily involved airport ground staff, air traffic controllers, and airline cabin crews causing lots of disruption.
It’s not just flights either – on the ground, public transport will be affected.
The strike is expected to impact trains including high-speed lines, the city metro, and buses which could face severe disruption.
Roads could be closed as well in cities like Madrid and Barcelona which are likely to see large protest marches.
For anyone already on holiday there at the time, the walkout could see some restaurants, museum and shops close too.
If they’re not shut, the opening hours could be reduced to holiday hours.
Advice for those due to travel on November 11 is to keep an eye on any updates from your airline.
Keep an eye on notifications on the airline for those due to fly on that dayCredit: Alamy
Many airlines operate flights from the UK to Spain like BA, EasyJetRyanair, Iberia, TUI, Jet2, Wizz Air and Vueling.
Disruption to flights on this day would be deemed as being an “extraordinary circumstance” which means airlines aren’t required to pay extra compensation.
However, airlines are legally required to rebook you or offer a refund.
A look at your rights if a flight is delayed or cancelled, when your entitled to compensation and if your travel insurance can cover the costs.
What are my rights if my flight is cancelled or delayed?
Under UK law, airlines have to provide compensation if your flight arrives at its destination more than three hours late.
If you’re flying to or from the UK, your airline must let you choose a refund or an alternative flight.
You will be able to get your money back for the part of your ticket that you haven’t used yet.
So if you booked a return flight and the outbound leg is cancelled, you can get the full cost of the return ticket refunded.
But if travelling is essential, then your airline has to find you an alternative flight. This could even be with another airline.
When am I not entitled to compensation?
The airline doesn’t have to give you a refund if the flight was cancelled due to reasons beyond their control, such as extreme weather.
Disruptions caused by things like extreme weather, airport or air traffic control employee strikes or other ‘extraordinary circumstances’ are not eligible for compensation.
Some airlines may stretch the definition of “extraordinary circumstances” but you can challenge them through the aviation regulator the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA).
Will my insurance cover me if my flight is cancelled?
If you can’t claim compensation directly through the airline, your travel insurance may refund you.
Policies vary so you should check the small print, but a delay of eight to 12 hours will normally mean you qualify for some money from your insurer.
Remember to get written confirmation of your delay from the airport as your insurer will need proof.
If your flight is cancelled entirely, you’re unlikely to be covered by your insurance.
A MAJOR airport has been hit by strike action with thousands of passengers facing cancelled strikes.
Ground handling group, Alyzia, are taking part in a national strike which affects airlines like Brussels Airlines, ITA Airways, Air Arabia and United Airlines.
Staff at Brussels Airport is staging a walkoutCredit: Getty
The airport expects only half of the flights handled by Alyzia to operate as planned.
Brussels Airport said that airlines working with Alyzia have contacted passengers directly to inform them about the status of their flight and their options.
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It added: “We regret the inconvenience caused by this union action.”
The strike action comes as workers protest against governmental policies.
According to FlightRadar which monitors movements of planes, Brussels Airport has had 103 cancellations today and 34 flights have been delayed.
As this strike is outside the control of individual airlines, it will be deemed an ‘extraordinary circumstance’, which means if your flight is cancelled you will not be entitled to compensation.
Public transport is also expected to be disrupted in Brussels today too.
The good news for Brits is that flights handled by Aviapartner will not be affected.
This includes major airlines serving UK destinations such as British Airways, easyJet, Ryanair, Tui, and Wizz Air.
The airport told The Independent that around 400 flights will still operate as usual today.
The strike is expected to affect almost 20 airlinesCredit: AP
Flight compensation rules
A look at your rights if a flight is delayed or cancelled, when your entitled to compensation and if your travel insurance can cover the costs.
What are my rights if my flight is cancelled or delayed?
Under UK law, airlines have to provide compensation if your flight arrives at its destination more than three hours late.
If you’re flying to or from the UK, your airline must let you choose a refund or an alternative flight.
You will be able to get your money back for the part of your ticket that you haven’t used yet.
So if you booked a return flight and the outbound leg is cancelled, you can get the full cost of the return ticket refunded.
But if travelling is essential, then your airline has to find you an alternative flight. This could even be with another airline.
When am I not entitled to compensation?
The airline doesn’t have to give you a refund if the flight was cancelled due to reasons beyond their control, such as extreme weather.
Disruptions caused by things like extreme weather, airport or air traffic control employee strikes or other ‘extraordinary circumstances’ are not eligible for compensation.
Some airlines may stretch the definition of “extraordinary circumstances” but you can challenge them through the aviation regulator the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA).
Will my insurance cover me if my flight is cancelled?
If you can’t claim compensation directly through the airline, your travel insurance may refund you.
Policies vary so you should check the small print, but a delay of eight to 12 hours will normally mean you qualify for some money from your insurer.
Remember to get written confirmation of your delay from the airport as your insurer will need proof.
If your flight is cancelled entirely, you’re unlikely to be covered by your insurance.
The menu will be influenced by the food and drink offered on Virgin Voyages, while seating will be inspired by Virgin Hotels.
Before and after boarding will also have spaces inspired by Virgin Atlantic Clubhouses.
Josh Bayliss, CEO of Virgin Group, said: “Virgin has a proud history in UK rail. With our latest venture we are drawing on more than four decades of experience across travel and hospitality to create something genuinely new.
“This time, we’ll be connecting London with some of Europe’s greatest cities and giving passengers a distinctive new choice in cross-Channel travel.
“We’re confident that more journeys between the UK and Europe will be made by train.
“We’re adding capacity for millions more international rail journeys each year, growing the market as a whole. We’re looking forward to seeing our distinctive red and black trains travelling across Europe.”
The new trains will be decked out in the famous red and blackVirgin Trains previously ran until 2019Credit: Alamy
Tucked away off a pretty shopping street in a beautiful art nouveau building is one of Stockholm’s oldest spas, Centralbadet where a day ticket costs from £23. As winter darkness descends, candles are lit around the pool and a quiet calm envelops you. Swimming by candlelight is a treat. Next a sauna followed by an ice-cold plunge. Afterwards a nightcap is in order so it’s a brisk walk in the cold crisp air to Fotografiska restaurant. It’s a great spot to savour one of Stockholm’s best views; the old town Gamla Stan and the twinkling lights on Lake Mälaren. Sarah Rochfort
‘Completely timeless and immersive’: birdwatching in Norfolk
A misty evening on Salthouse marshes. Photograph: Ernie Janes/Alamy
Birdwatching at the Cley and Salthouse marshes in Cley-next-the-sea, Norfolk. The two bird hides are meditative and relaxed spaces. The windows open directly on to the pools of saltwater where many different species of birds obliviously wander around. It’s a place that is completely timeless and immersive. Your only job is to gaze out at the birds. It’s a very popular spot for birdwatching but the atmosphere is friendly and quiet. Someone even let us have a go with their binoculars. We particularly enjoyed watching a nest of baby swallows huddled in the corner of the hide. The marshes cover a wide area and are so important for biodiversity, providing an essential resting place for resident and migratory birds. You might even spot a spoonbill, which have returned to the UK from 2010 after being absent for hundreds of years. Well worth a wellness visit, even if you don’t really know anything about birds (like me). Petra
Hampshire’s Scandi sauna huts
Hello Outdoors shepherd’s hut sauna. Photograph: Jason Ludlow/PR
A fresh ginger concoction, orange slices and a friendly sauna master greeted us at the Hello Outdoors shepherd’s hut sauna, which has a picture window overlooking the historic Lymington Sea Water Baths. The deep blue of the sky and water, Swedish sauna hats, the calming scent of our chosen essential oil, a soothing soundtrack and the option to ease the sauna heat with an exhilarating plunge in an ice-cold tub or more genial dip in the sun-warmed sea baths made for a very enjoyable and restorative couple of hours away from real life. We didn’t want to leave. Claire Edwards
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Forest bathing in Croatia
The village of Radoboj. Photograph: Zvonimir Atletic/Alamy
For five days in Radoboj, northern Croatia, we forest-bathed beneath the trees, walked slowly, practised breathing and meditation and ate simple local food. No luxury spa, no expensive treatments – just nature and time. I wore an Oura smart ring throughout. My resting heart rate fell markedly and, by day four, the ring recorded four and a half hours of restorative time. More importantly, I felt profoundly different. It completely overturned what I thought wellness travel was. Sometimes the most restorative place isn’t a spa. It’s a forest. Bex Hamilton
Bath time near Sofia, Bulgaria
The Bankya Central Mineral Baths. Photograph: PR
The natural mineral springs in Sofia mean bathhouses are a way of life. Bankya is on the outskirts of the city, so I travelled by bus to visit the Central Mineral Bath Bankya. This opulent bathhouse is owned by the Sofia municipality, meaning the atmosphere is a mix of the everyday council baths and extraordinary architecture from the early 20th century. You can visit from under €10 and, as well as the promised health benefits of the natural spring water, there is a thermal zone, a salt room, aromatherapy, saunas and steam rooms with an array of massages too. Sarah Collings
The perfect spa and skiing combo in Poland
A winter landscape of Zakopane and the Tatra mountains. Photograph: Zoonar/Alamy
While skiing in Zakopane, Poland, we made a lot of use of Terma Bania, an incredible pool and spa centre right in the heart of the ski resort. There is something magical about watching the sun go down in blissfully warm water and surrounded by snow. There is an astonishing array of saunas, pools and steam rooms, surrounded by mountain views. We discovered there are also several thermal pool and spa complexes in the surrounding area, and ended up spending as much of our holiday in the spas as we did on the slopes! Frances
The sauna at West Coast Wellness. Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/The Guardian
The Lochside Sauna at West Coast Wellness (£17 for 2.5 hours) in Evanachan sits on the shore of Loch Fyne. Hidden away from the single track road, a 10-minute walk takes you to one of the most peaceful saunas in the UK. From the giant window, sit back and watch the water of the loch (keep an eye out for dolphins), slowly preparing yourself to make the short walk down and take a dip in between the heat. Alternatively there is a cold water plunge which if anything is colder than the loch! The centre also offers yoga and pilates sessions and there’s the delicious Inver restaurant just around the corner. Lewis
Wild swimming and wildlife in North Yorkshire
Wild swimming at Pool Bridge Farm. Photograph: PR
Wild swimming at Pool Bridge Farm guarantees a wholesome retreat from the vibrant bustle of neighbouring York. Transformed from old fishing ponds, the sprawling site comprises four lakes and ample space for lounging and lunching. A revitalising dip is best paired with a stop in the sauna (£16.50), priming those brave enough for the raw, heady thrill of the next plunge. To top it off, head to nearby Wheldrake Ings nature reserve, one of North Yorkshire’s top wildlife destinations, especially for waterfowl. As the flood waters rise from autumn, so does the abundance of migratory birds. A serene natural scene to soothe the soul. Fin
Sensory walk in the Black Forest, Germany
My two teenagers and I stumbled on a wellness experience for the mind, body and soul while we were wandering around the Black Forest near our holiday base of Freiburg last summer. A friendly German walker with a tree branch for a stick and a large husky for a companion told us to try a barefoot sensory trail at Park mit Allen Sinnen (park of all the senses) as we walked along together through the forest. So we followed his advice. It involved walking barefoot over grass, sand, woodchips, stone, mud and more while trying to tune into our five senses. We began by putting our hands into hollowed-out trees with our eyes closed to guess what objects were placed there. There were bright, colourful flowers, natural scents to imagine and huts to relax and sit in full of sounds and smells to immerse ourselves in with eyes closed. We repeated these walks for three days, heightening our contact with our own senses – and treating ourselves to rye bread and cheese sandwiches with forest fruits berry juice from simple forest cafe cabins as a reward. Helen
Winning tip: County Donegal’s peerless sauna on the pier
A boat trip to the Sliabh Liag sea cliffs. Photograph: Christopher Hill /Scenic Ireland/Alamy
If you find yourself on the wild coast of south County Donegal, head to the Sliabh Liag Sauna at Teelin pier. After a day of hiking (and maybe one or two pints of porter the evening before), the small wood-fired sauna right on the pier was the perfect unwind. We followed it up by taking a sea dip in the bay just steps away. If you have plenty of time, combine the sauna with a nearby boat trip to the unforgettable Sliabh Liag sea cliffs towering 601 metres (1,972ft) above the sea. Peter Henry
I miss the ease with which I used to hop into my car, gear and dog loaded, and head to the Mt. Waterman trailhead deep in Angeles National Forest for a day of serenity and adventure. It was one of my go-to happy places.
But the segment of Angeles Crest Highway to reach the trailhead has been closed since last December when heavy rain destroyed several sections of the roadway. I could technically reach the trail by taking the closed highway 3.8 miles on foot from the closure’s start to the trailhead, or the Pacific Crest Trail for part of the way. But as I said, I miss the ease of it all.
This winter, Southern California is expected to be pummeled by a “super” El Niño that could bring record-breaking amounts of rain — and maybe snow — to the region. I have been worried about whether storms will blast away the progress that construction crews have made repairing Angeles Crest Highway, a 66-mile stretch of California 2 through the San Gabriel Mountains, along with causing more damage.
In anticipation of further closures of California 2 in the San Gabriel Mountains, I have compiled a list of trails that would be most inaccessible should the roadway close. I hope you can use the list below to either hike trails you’ve never tried or haven’t visited in a while.
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First, let’s talk about the current state of California 2.
Over the last four years, the route has seen multiple months-long closures after storms blasted out massive chunks of roadway, leading to lengthy repairs.
Since January, the California Department of Transportation and its contractors have worked on three emergency projects on Angeles Crest Highway. The work stretches over nearly 30 miles and includes about 40 places identified as needing to be repaired. The projects are noted below by postmile value, a numerical identifier used by state and federal officials to identify precise locations on a specific route:
From Postmile 79.2 in L.A. County to Postmile 1 in San Bernardino County; construction completed: 80%; anticipated completion date: Winter 2026/27
From Postmile 55 to 66.39; construction completed: 40%; anticipated completion date: Summer 2027
From Postmile 64 to 74.3; construction completed: 20%; anticipated completion date: Winter 2027/28
Crews have and will continue installing K-rail barriers around washed-out shoulders and road; repairing eroded slopes and embankments under the road; reconstructing shoulders and slopes to their “original design grades,” which is a feat of engineering I’m personally impressed by; and installing erosion control measures to better ensure a future storm does not cause the exact same issues that prompted previous repairs, according to a Caltrans fact sheet of the project.
Caltrans spokesperson Eric Menjivar said in an email Tuesday that at least some of the repairs are on hold as the agency obtains supplemental funding through an internal review process to finish the repairs.
Contractors have continued work to prep the roadway for El Niño, he said, including slope erosion control work.
An excavator works to repair a segment of Angeles Crest Highway.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
In terms of the timing of when we will start to see rainfall, it could be as early as this month.
“Forecasters say there’s a 75% chance this latest El Niño — a climate pattern characterized by warmer ocean waters in the central and eastern tropical Pacific — will be stronger than any other since 1950,” Times staff writer Iris Kwok wrote. “There is a 98% chance that El Niño will be ‘very strong’ for the three-month period ending in December, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s Climate Prediction Center.”
That’s why I wanted to dig into which trails would be most affected by a California 2 closure. Below, I’ve listed trails that are primarily accessed using a trailhead off the route, while also noting how hikers might still reach a peak or vantage point using another option.
I am not suggesting where damage will or won’t occur, but rather encouraging you to get out on these trails soon — especially if they’ve been on your list for a while — while it remains easy enough to drive to their trailheads. Additionally, we cannot predict how our trails will fare during a significant El Niño winter.
A sweeping view of Angeles Crest Highway and the San Gabriel Mountains from the Hoyt Mountain trail.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Here are trails primarily accessed off California 2:
The Gabrielino Trail is a multiuse trail frequented by hikers, bikers and horseback riders.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Grizzly Flat Trail: A challenging 7.4-mile out-and-back route where you climb up and then down the mountainside, reaching the Stonyvale picnic area where you can have a lunch break before clambering back up the mountain.
Hoyt Mountain via Grizzly Flat: A 4.6-mile steep jaunt up to Hoyt Mountain, a 4,415(ish)-foot peak in the front range of the San Gabriel Mountains in Angeles National Forest. There are multiple routes to reach it (see map), which you can read about in a previous Wild.
Switzer Falls and picnic area: The 4.6-mile Switzer Falls hike, one of the most popular in the forest, is primarily reached via the Switzer picnic area off California 2; note that my distance includes walking down from the parking area adjacent to the road, as the gate has been closed recently because of bear activity; if that trailhead became inaccessible, Switzer Falls could be reached off the Gabrielino Trail, but it’s a much longer hike (about 20 miles one way from Azusa, or about 8.8 miles one way from near Pasadena).
One cascade of Switzer Falls.
(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
Colby Canyon Trail: This difficult 9.2-mile out-and-back trail takes hikers to Strawberry Meadow, a flat area in the San Gabriels with nice views. Note: Do not attempt to use the mountaineering route to reach Strawberry Peak. There is an option, as noted on the map, to also hike to Josephine Peak during the same excursion.
Strawberry Peak Trail: This 7-mile out-and-back route takes hikers to the highest peak in the front range of Angeles National Forest. Said to resemble an upside-down strawberry, the summit is reached through a moderately strenuous hike that offers great views of the surrounding mountains. The route is exposed and should not be attempted on warm weather days.
Mt. Wilson area: If California 2 shuts down before Mt. Wilson Red Box Road, which leads to the Mt. Wilson Observatory, several trails will be either inaccessible or much more challenging to reach. That includes reaching Mt. Disappointment, Mt. Deception or Mt. Markham. Hikers would technically be able to access those peaks by first summiting Mt. Wilson, but that requires a 7-mile journey up Little Santa Anita Canyon where you gain about 4,800 feet. There’s a limited number of people who want to hike more after that.
Redbox to Valley Forge: A beautiful 4.8-mile out-and-back trek to Valley Forge Trail Camp via the Gabrielino Trail, where hikers can go farther in multiple directions should they choose.
The Vetter Mountain lookout tower in Angeles National Forest.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Vetter Mountain Lookout: A 5(ish)-mile round trip that includes a stop at a fire lookout where you will get sweeping views of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
Devils Canyon Trail: A 5.8-mile out-and-back stretch down 1,400 feet into a shaded canyon where a seasonal stream runs.
Mt. Hillyer from Chilao via Silver Moccasin Trail: A 6(ish)-mile journey in a corner of the San Gabriel Mountains that has both high desert vibes and pine trees — and boulders! (One of my favorites.)
Three Points to Sulphur Springs: This is a 7.4-mile out-and-back hike along the Pacific Crest Trail where you reach Sulphur Springs Trail Camp. The camp sits at 5,300 feet and features about six tent-camping sites. Its campsites are shaded by tall pine trees, ideal for hanging a hammock. It has vault toilets but no potable water or bear boxes.
And more!
There are obviously others, including some I’m not listing because I know they’re not in great condition. Additionally, several hikes remain accessible under the current closures only by hiking or biking to them. That includes the Burkhart Trail, Cloudburst Summit to Cooper Canyon Trail Camp, Throop Peak, and, as mentioned, the Mt. Waterman Trail.
I found a few hikes I’ve never done thanks to this week’s Wild. I hope it serves a similar purpose for you. Let me know if you get out there and where you go! If you received this newsletter as an email, you can simply reply, and your messages come right to me. See you out there!
3 things to do
Skaters meander through Little Tokyo during a previous CicLAvia event.
(CicLAvia Los Angeles)
1. Dilly-dally through downtown L.A. CicLAvia will host a 6.5-mile open streets event from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday via a route that connects Echo Park, downtown L.A., Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Arts District and Boyle Heights. Guests are welcome to walk, bike or use other people-powered mobility devices to traverse the route. See rules for e-bikes. Learn more at ciclavia.org.
2. Craft local clay in L.A. Clay artist Evelyn Hernández will host from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Sunday a hike through Griffith Park and teach participants along the way to identify clay and earthen pigments in their natural habitat. Attendees will also create a ceramic piece using locally processed clay. Tickets are $48.05 to $63.63 based on your economic ability to pay. Register at events.humanitix.com.
3. Haunt the hillsides near Atwater Village Dance Quest will host a Halloween-themed silent disco from 9:30 to 10:30 a.m. Saturday through Griffith Park. Attendees will dance along a 1.5-mile loop trail while wearing headphones with a curated playlist. Halloween costumes and flair welcomed and encouraged. Suggested donation of $15 to $25. Register at eventbrite.com.
The must-read
George Jensen records audio of geese and ducks during a Los Angeles Field Recording meetup at the Sepulveda Basin Wildlife Reserve.
(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)
One of the best parts of hiking is the unexpected sounds that nature provides, from the crunch of your boots on the sandy soil to the surprisingly thunderous sounds a covey of quail makes as it leaves a shrub (which has maybe scared a certain outdoors journalist more than once). And because L.A. has a club for truly everyone, there’s now a place nature sound lovers can go to really appreciate what they find outdoors, the Los Angeles Field Recording Club. “I feel like now everything’s so … doctored. But when you’re recording, this is what’s really happening. You’re hearing real sound. You’re engaged with the world in a real way,” said George Jensen, founder of the Los Angeles Field Recording Club.
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
Everyone is looking for a way to escape this heat wave, including the black bears of the San Gabriel Mountains. Wildlife photographer Robert Martinez shared a video this week of one of our ursine neighbors taking a dip into cool water deep in Angeles National Forest. The bear even takes time to exfoliate, using what appears to be a concrete barrier to scratch its back. Now that’s self-care!
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.