TRAVEL

A family’s long-awaited Easter getaway turned into a nightmare after travelling hundreds of miles only to find their booked resort shut and fenced off

After months of planning a relaxing family break abroad, one couple thought they had everything organised down to the last detail. But what awaited them at the end of a nine-hour journey across Europe was something they never could have prepared for.

The couple, who asked not to be identified due to the man’s occupation, had booked a stay at the Waterside Elegance Sky Pad at the Your Nature Resort in Belgium through Booking.com last October. Having previously visited the resort, they were eagerly anticipating their return with their two young sons in April, only to arrive and discover the site appeared to be closed.

Instead of checking into their accommodation and settling in for a long-awaited family holiday, the couple claim they were met by locked entrance gates, construction fencing and an eerily empty car park. Signs displayed outside the resort also appeared to indicate the site was no longer operating.

The Waterside Elegance Sky Pad is a luxury duplex cabin located within the 280-hectare Your Nature Eco Forest Resort in Antoing, Belgium. The £105 million resort has reportedly been fenced off and forced into bankruptcy, leaving holidaymakers stranded after it allegedly exceeded €15 million in losses, according to Forbes.

In a lengthy Reddit post, the man explained how the family’s entire trip had been carefully planned around the needs of their children, including their eldest son who is autistic and non-verbal. But after arriving at the resort entrance and, by chance, speaking with a site manager, the couple claim they were informed the resort had gone into administration months earlier in October.

This is despite Booking.com allegedly repeatedly reassuring the family their holiday would go ahead as planned, with emails recognising the reservation remained valid. The Reddit post also claims the company accepted tourism tax payments and issued a check-in voucher just weeks before the family travelled to Belgium.

“If you think your holiday is secure because you have a confirmed booking voucher, think again,” he warned.

Speaking to The Mirror, the man detailed how the family were left scrambling after the revelation, with hundreds of pounds spent on Le Shuttle crossings, fuel, food and overnight accommodation in France. He also claimed Booking.com later suggested alternative accommodation options, though the family considered them unsuitable.

Booking.com is understood to have refunded the original accommodation costs, though disputes between the two parties are said to remain ongoing.

The family are seeking compensation for more than £400 in additional travel expenses incurred during the ordeal. They claim the online travel agency is refusing to accept liability, despite allegedly issuing a separate payment of 150 EUR which they say they have refused to accept.

In the Reddit post, the man referenced provisions within the Consumer Rights Act 2015 and Consumer Protection from Unfair Trading Regulations 2008, arguing the family relied on written assurances when booking non-refundable travel arrangements. However, no court has ruled on the claims and Booking.com disputes wrongdoing.

A Booking.com spokesperson told The Mirror: “We’re sorry to hear about this customer’s experience. When a property chooses to list on Booking.com they must agree to our terms and conditions, which includes keeping their room availability up to date.

“If an accommodation partner wants to end their agreement or remove their listing, we have simple processes and clear guidance to help them do this. We can confirm this property is currently closed on our platform, and that we’re also in touch with the customer to offer support.”

Consumer experts regularly advise travellers to retain booking confirmations, receipts and written correspondence when arranging holidays online. According to Citizens Advice, customers may have rights if services are not provided as described, although compensation outcomes can vary depending on individual circumstances and booking terms.

The town has been named one of the best places to live in the UK thanks to its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops and easy access to London,

In recent years, I’ve made it my personal quest to discover towns and villages right on my doorstep. I’m lucky enough to call Kent home – also dubbed the Garden of England – which means I’m absolutely spoilt for choice when it comes to stunning towns and villages. One town that keeps pulling me back is Royal Tunbridge Wells. My most recent trip was my third visit to the town – and it certainly lived up to expectations.

Located just 30 miles from London, this spa town has become a go-to location for commuters and boasts a rich history stretching back to the Iron Age. Its famous chalybeate spring transformed it into a fashionable retreat during the Restoration era, attracting visitors seeking its healing waters and the legendary Pantiles. Today, tourists still pour in, lured by the Pantiles – a stunning Georgian colonnade sitting at the town’s centre – alongside its boutiques, quirky cafes, restaurants, bars, and the chalybeate spring.

What really makes the town stand out is its exceptional ‘Royal’ title, a distinction held by just three towns in England. King Edward VII granted the prefix in 1909 to acknowledge its enduring appeal with the Royal Family.

With all this going for it, it’s little surprise Tunbridge Wells was crowned one of the best places to live in the UK for 2026 by Muddy Stilettos.

The town earned praise for its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops, easy access to London, and, naturally, the legendary Pantiles.

The publication stated: “Forget those letter-writing retired colonels: this spa town now pulls in well-families chasing a best-of-both-worlds commuter lifestyle. With yoga studios, art galleries galore and the Garden of England’s apple orchards on the doorstep, this town has it all.”

The town also secured 10th place in the UK in last year’s Better Lives Index.

Compiled by the International Longevity Centre, the index assessed 359 UK districts across nine measures: gross domestic household income, life expectancy at birth and at 65, economic activity for over-16s, inactivity among 50 to 64-year-olds, pollution density, child poverty rate, avoidable mortality, and the ratio of house prices to earnings.

Despite somewhat changeable weather during my visit, I made the most of the driest day to wander through the town centre and soak up the atmosphere.

For the rest of my trip, I unwound at The Spa Hotel – a historic sanctuary nestled within 14 acres of beautiful grounds just beyond the town centre.

This was our third visit to the hotel, which has firmly established itself as a personal favourite, owing to its tranquil spa facilities, mouth-watering dining options, welcoming staff and luxurious rooms.

On this occasion, I was fortunate enough to wander the grounds, uncovering breathtaking countryside vistas, a picturesque pond and spring flowers just waiting to burst into bloom.

It comes as little surprise that the hotel has become a sought-after wedding venue, something we witnessed first-hand on the second day of our stay.

The stunning hotel boasts a restaurant and bar, a heated indoor pool, a gym, steam room, sauna, and a brand-new Wellness Suite.

So, should the weather prove unsuitable for venturing into town, there’s still a wealth of activities to enjoy within the hotel itself. On earlier visits, snow and thunderstorms had confined us indoors for entire weekends, yet with room service, superb spa amenities and a cosy bar, being kept inside felt far from a hardship.

Despite feeling delightfully secluded in the countryside, the hotel is just a stone’s throw from the town centre. A short five-minute drive brings you into town, with ample parking on hand. Alternatively, you can take a leisurely 20-minute stroll downhill, or, as we opted to do, catch a local bus from right outside the hotel entrance.

The town itself ranks among the most stunning I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. The Pantiles are a particular highlight — a collonaded walkway that transports you back in time, with the majority of its buildings dating from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Many of the shops and cafes in the Pantiles are independent, with Collared, a dog accessory and gift shop; Trevor Mottram, a kitchenware shop; and the cosy cafe Eggs Eleven among my top picks.

During this trip, we finally sampled the celebrated water from the chalybeate spring. At the far end of the Pantiles, a vending machine dispenses glass bottles of this distinctive, iron-rich mineral water, renowned for its unique flavour.

Uncovered by Lord North in 1606, the mineral spring rapidly earned a reputation for its extraordinary healing properties, thought to remedy everything from ailments and infertility to hangovers and obesity.

In 1629, the Queen of England drank the spring water and shortly afterwards gave birth to Charles II, who was said to owe his life to the famous waters. The spring also drew other royals, including James I, Queen Anne, and Queen Victoria.

The water itself tasted remarkably pure – considerably better than tap or many bottled waters, without any of the usual chemical aftertaste. The glass bottles also make delightful keepsakes, ideal for reusing as vases or candleholders.

The remainder of the day I spent wandering around the town, browsing shops and enjoying the sunshine. If you’re eager to shop, Tunbridge Wells has plenty on offer, from independent boutiques to familiar brands like Anthropologie, Space NK, LUSH and Fenwick, many of which are located in the town’s shopping centre, Royal Victoria Place.

After spending the day browsing the shops, we headed to Roddy Burger, a local independent eatery renowned for its freshly prepared food. Arriving among the first customers, we ordered a succulent chicken burger, a halloumi burger, chips, and beer-battered pickles. Both burgers were exceptional, washed down with a non-alcoholic lager for me and an ale for my husband. It was my first experience of battered pickles, and I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious they were – the salty, sharp pickle worked brilliantly with the crispy batter.

The team were genuinely lovely, and the restaurant’s quirky interior and lively music created a chilled, inviting atmosphere. If you’re after a laid-back dinner venue, I’d absolutely recommend popping in.

While I didn’t manage to visit Halstead Bakery on this occasion, I’ve only ever heard glowing reports about it. Situated on the same road as Roddy Burger, this independent bakery is celebrated for its handcrafted bread, pastries, and baked treats made using local, seasonal produce. It holds an impressive 4.8 out of 5 rating on Google, with customers singing its praises for “incredible pastries and great coffee.”

One review states: “Delicious fresh bakes with innovative and vibrant flavour combinations. We’ve had so many different things from this bakery – the croissants are crispy, puffy and cooked to perfection; their speciality scones are not to be missed; and the cardamom buns are fragrant and moist. Friendly atmosphere and helpful staff. Highly recommend!”

I’ve also popped into Fine Grind on the High Street during a previous trip, a delightful coffee shop that boasts it has served “the best brews in town for 13 years,” according to its Instagram. The coffee is truly outstanding, particularly when enjoyed alongside one of their cakes or pastries. A word of warning: it becomes extremely busy at weekends!

One of the greatest advantages of visiting Tunbridge Wells is its excellent transport links. Regular buses operate in and out of the town centre, while trains can reach London in roughly 45 minutes. Although my journey from the Kent coast takes over two hours, those travelling from Canterbury, Ashford, or Maidstone can arrive in just 60 to 90 minutes, depending on their chosen route.

The local taxi services in Tunbridge Wells are also excellent, though Uber operates in the area too if you’ve got the app.

While I thoroughly enjoy my visits to Tunbridge Wells, one aspect consistently lets it down: the general reception of locals. Although hotel and hospitality workers are invariably pleasant and accommodating, I discovered the atmosphere around town to be rather less welcoming. People frequently barged past without apologising or acknowledging when I held doors open, which left me feeling somewhat unwelcome.

Hailing from a small town, I’m accustomed to a neighbourly environment; people smile while passing and chat at the till. Perhaps I’m simply unaccustomed to the more distant character of larger towns, where residents are less acquainted with each other.

If you’re thinking about a laid-back staycation this summer, Royal Tunbridge Wells is a brilliant option — ideal for browsing shops, exploring historic sights, or just taking it easy without venturing far. Just bear in mind, you might not receive the warmest welcome from residents…

All tourists have been urged to follow a simple travel rule to avoid bringing bed bugs home from their holidays. It’s vital travel advice for people to take note of

As many of us begin planning trips abroad, there’s a crucial piece of advice you need to hear if you want to avoid bringing bed bugs back with you. It’s travel guidance worth heeding, as nobody wants to be landed with such an unpleasant problem after returning from their holidays.

The pests tend to dominate the headlines each summer, and now luggage is being hauled out of storage once more, the anxiety resurfaces for many travellers. Yet if you assume a swift inspection of your hotel bedding will suffice, James Rhoades, expert, founder and CEO of ThermoPest, cautions that we’re all searching in entirely the wrong place.

This isn’t the first expert guidance of its kind to emerge either. Previously, another tip was also shared to help prevent people carrying bed bugs home.

Peeling back the sheets to hunt for bed bugs might seem like common sense, but in practice, it’s largely futile. “The biggest mistake travellers make is checking the sheets,” said James.

“Bed bugs don’t hang around in open spaces; they hide in seams, frames and behind headboards. By the time you see one on the sheet, they’ve been there for a while.”

Put simply, you need to investigate more thoroughly if you’re serious about staying pest-free. Bed bugs are masters of concealment.

They don’t lurk in the centre of the mattress where they’re easily spotted. Instead, they gather in narrow, sheltered areas close to where people rest.

The key areas to inspect include mattress seams and piping, the edges and underside of the mattress, behind the headboard (a notorious hiding spot), cracks and joints in the bed frame, and gaps in nearby furniture.

What should you be looking for?

Not merely live bugs — which are small, flat and roughly the size of an apple seed — but also rust-coloured stains (their droppings), pale shed skins and tiny clusters of eggs.

Miss those, and you could miss the problem altogether. Until it quite literally bites you on the bum!

The real danger isn’t simply a disturbed night’s sleep; it’s what unfolds after you check out. Bed bugs are seasoned hitchhikers. They burrow into suitcase seams, clothing folds and even inside shoes — and it doesn’t take long, either.

James explained: “Even a single night’s stay in an infested room is enough for bugs to transfer into your luggage. Then, once you’re home, they spread quickly, into carpets, furniture and other rooms.”

Should you spot any signs of bed bugs, don’t simply request the room next door. He added: “Bed bugs can easily spread between rooms.

“Instead, it’s a much better idea to request a room in a completely different part of the building, ideally on another floor. And keep your luggage sealed until you’re sure the new room is clear.”

That’s the golden rule — don’t unpack immediately. Keep your suitcase on a luggage rack, positioned away from the wall, or even in the bathroom while you thoroughly inspect the room. Otherwise, you could end up bringing back more than you anticipated. It’s a straightforward travel rule to stick to.

Nine-thirty on a sunny Tuesday morning, and the platforms at Nice-Ville station are buzzing. Office workers nudge their way past backpackers, passengers clamber on to trains heading east to Monaco and Italy, or west to Antibes and Cannes. My husband and I, however, are heading away from the glittering coastline and boarding the Train des Merveilles (Train of Wonders) into the Alpes-Azur mountains.

Back on track last December after a programme of major works closed the line for a year, it’s one of the most spectacular train routes in Europe, a two-hour journey that climbs 1,000 metres in 100km, linking Nice with the medieval town of Tende, surrounded by the soaring peaks of the Mercantour national park.

It’s barely 10 minutes before the suburbs of Nice begin to melt into low hills, scattered with auburn-roofed villas and copses of chestnut trees. Once the ascent begins, it’s easy to see why maintaining the line, begun in 1883, is a serious task. More than 100 bridges and viaducts – and almost as many tunnels and retaining walls – stitch the track together, along with ingenious helical loop tunnels, which gain altitude by following a series of bends inside the mountain itself.

It’s a breathtaking ride, the hills gaining height and heft, until a great mountainscape begins to unfold before us; jagged peaks that make the valley road below seem little more than a thin sliver of ribbon.

Many passengers ride straight up to Tende and set off to hike the mountain trails that lead off from the town. But we want to see a little more, and disembark first at Sospel, a medieval town where the 13th-century Pont-Vieux straddles the Bévéra River. It’s market day and, even in such a small town, there are flower and vegetable stalls, great wheels of cheese and delicious looking breads. We stroll the quiet streets, past crumbling baroque churches and gothic-style houses. It’s amazing to think we are barely an hour from Nice – it feels like we’ve been transported to an entirely different region of France.

The higher we go, the more the feeling of stepping back in time grows. At La Brigue, the gateway to the Mercantour national park, the tangle of medieval streets feel barely raised from their winter sleep; the town only really comes alive in summer, when the hikers arrive. La Brigue’s claim to fame is the Chapel of our Lady of Fountains, a couple of miles outside the town. Named for the seven springs that trickle through the rocks nearby, parts of the church date back to the 13th century, when, legend has it, villagers built it as a sign of gratitude to the Virgin Mary after prayers for a new water source for La Brigue were answered. While the facade is unassuming, the interior is truly extraordinary; its walls and ceiling are covered in 15th-century frescoes by Giovanni Canavesio that are so vivid the church is sometimes called the Sistine Chapel of the Southern Alps.

By the time we arrive in Tende, where the houses cling to the mountainside, we are 800 metres above sea level and there is nothing but wooded slopes leading to high peaks and a crisp, clear silence. We follow the modern main street through the clustered, medieval houses of the old town up to the ruins of Chateau Lascaris, where the views stretch to the distant peaks of the Marguareis massif, the last mountains before Italy. It’s quite a pull, and afterwards we reward ourselves with mammoth croque monsieurs at Stella Alpina – part outdoor equipment shop, part rustic eaterie. Around us, hearty looking chaps in Lycra cycling tops are tucking into pints of lager and platters of local cheese and cured meats.

Much restored, we dip into the Musée des Merveilles, where we learn (through our fractured French) that the area is home to one of Europe’s largest Neolithic and Bronze Age rock-engraving sites. The town’s more recent (relatively speaking) history is tied to the Salt Road, a mule train route between the Piedmontese Alps and the Ligurian coast, used from the middle ages until the 18th century. Built as the last French stop-off along the trade route, it partly explains why a town of such a size was located in such an isolated, mountainous location.

Next morning, we’re back in Nice, from where we head along the coast to Antibes. It’s such a bonus, being able to explore so easily; 40 minutes later, we’re strolling past gleaming yachts in the marina and on to the 16th-century ramparts, to sit in the sunshine and watch the kitesurfers whisk across the bay. We head to a restaurant on the Place Nationale, where I eat crispy fritto misto (mixed fried seafood) and try to ignore my husband tucking into buttery, garlicky snails. The following day we take the 10-minute hop east for lunch in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, where the streets ooze belle epoque glamour, and the Plage de la Petite Afrique makes the perfect spot for a paddle and a pile of mussels, thick with cream and garlic.

Food, inevitably, plays a big part in our time in Nice too. As touristy as the old town is, we find two absolute gems; a recommendation sends us to Acchiardo (on Facebook), where the fourth generation of the Acchiardo family serves up classic local dishes such as daube Nicoise – a rich, slow-cooked beef stew and duck breast with fig sauce. The second, Les Bar Des Oiseaux (on Instagram), we simply stumble across. It’s a classic bistro, with wood panelling painted with flawless reproductions of artworks by everyone from Joan Miró to Paul Klee and Roy Lichtenstein. My bourride (a traditional Provençal fish stew) was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten.

And that’s the beauty of Nice. It’s both a destination itself and a gateway to very different worlds, all of them just a train ride away. The Train des Merveilles is unarguably the highlight; those extraordinary twists and turns, the grandiose scenery, wild and untouched, so different from the busy streets of Nice. But to pack all of it into one short trip is to make the very most of this diversely beautiful region; a trip des merveilles indeed.

The trip was provided by Mama Shelter hotels and the Nice Côte d’Azur tourist board. Doubles at Mama Shelter Nice from £114 B&B. The Train des Merveilles runs daily from June-September, with an onboard guide on the 9.30 departure. A regional rail day pass with Ter Zou!, including the Train des Merveilles, is €20

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city, offers plenty of surprises, as I found out during a trip to the city in May

Wandering through the streets of a lesser-known European city that days earlier I knew very little about, a piece of street art featuring three grandmas wearing reflective sunglasses caught my eye.

‘Silence, please!’ was the clear instruction accompanying the mural as, full of curiosity and intrigue, I tentatively stepped inside the entrance of a colourfully-painted courtyard of apartments to take a peek.

I saw a couple of tourists grabbing phones from their coat pockets, working their way around the vibrant little snicket and snapping photos. A small but exciting place to stumble upon, it felt like something of a hidden secret.

And one I came across in Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city. It is a place that has long lived in the shadow of its postcard-pretty capital Vilnius, located an 80-minute drive away, but one full of little surprises.

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Between the wars, while Vilnius was under Polish control, Kaunas was the country’s temporary capital. In that time, it found itself producing one of Europe’s richest collections of architecture, which was recognised by UNESCO in 2023.

As I wandered through the confines of the Yard Gallery, I soon realised Kaunas was worthy of far more than just a quick stop-off. It has a creative soul I had not encountered in many other places during my travels.

The free-to-enter open-air street display was started by artist Vytenis Jakas who, having noticed some had become alienated, wanted a way to bring neighbours together and commemorate the lives of former Jewish residents.

Walls bloom with street art, with the powerful words of John Lennon’s Imagine immortalised on one, and a giant elephant and seagull stopping you in your tracks on another. There are more understated features, like mirror mosaics, stained-glass windows, and photograph memorials to past residents. It felt distinctly lived in, with cars parked outside, refuse bins and clothes lines draped around the murals.

My stop in Kaunas being fleeting, it was time to join Lithuania Travel and visit one of the country’s oldest and largest art museums, M.K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, devoted to the local genius.

I explored the cosmic and dreamscape-like fantasy world of the artist and composer’s sounds and images, which told the story of his more than 300 paintings and 400 musical compositions.

The Trail of Angels virtual reality experience was an unexpected pleasure. Via a headset, I found myself immersed in the paintings, swirling around on a fully-rotating chair, floating through symbolic forests. What felt gimmicky on paper beforehand proved to be unexpectedly moving and peaceful.

It is not just art, but food, which has a firm place in the city’s creative ambitions.

I took a stroll along the length of Liberty Avenue, Kaunas’ most prominent and longest pedestrian street, flanked with trees, shops and cafes, and the awe-inspiring neo-Byzantine Catholic Church of St Michael the Archangel.

In the church’s shadow is Sija, a barely five-month-old restaurant which is set to have its food featured in the Michelin Guide – despite its infancy and only having four members of staff.

Inside, I met owner and chef Rakas Vasiliauskas and partner Greta Rutkauskaite, whose vision is to celebrate exclusively Lithuanian cuisine.

So much so, even lemon, pepper and oil are omitted. I tried a trout, presented with cucumbers, kefir and purple potato. A particularly tasty dish that showcased the best of local ingredients without the typical theatrical fuss.

Elsewhere, DIA restaurant left a lasting impression with its luxurious decor, mirrored ceilings and a full-blown tree acting as a centrepiece to one table. But its food was even more memorable.

Lamb, accompanied by pea-mint puree, cuttlefish tuile, chicken jus, pea pods, baby carrots and baby potatoes, came together to create an exquisite dining experience I will not forget in a hurry.

There is a feel of history and reinvention in Kaunas, with every restored facade or repurposed courtyard offering a frequent reminder of where it has been and where it is going. It is perhaps the mural of the sunglasses-wearing grans which captures the spirit of the city most, acting as a symbol for a place which has endured, adapted and emerged with its sense of humour and style still intact.

Book it

UK flights from London Luton Airport to Kaunas with Wizz Air start at £19.99 per person.

“DOES the hunchback of Notre-Dame still live here?” my eight-year-old daughter Molly asks, as we look up at the gleaming white towers of Paris’ recently restored Notre-Dame cathedral.

Although we don’t find any secret medieval residents inside, we do adore gazing at the gold stars dotted across the sky-blue ceilings of the side chapels, and the stunning stained-glass windows that cast rainbows of light across the floor.

The five-year restoration project – after Notre-Dame burned down in 2019 – cost more than £600million and involved around 2,000 craftspeople, with 1,200 oak trees sourced from French forests – and the results are miraculous.

Entry is free, but save queuing time by booking ahead (Notredamedeparis.fr).

Stairway to heaven

We’re staying at NoPi Chic, a gorgeous Airbnb just off the main drag in Pigalle and down the road from the Moulin Rouge.

The two-bedroom apartment has high ceilings and a treasure trove of objets d’art. The kids’ room comes with the cutest bunks, and we love climbing the classic Parisian spiral staircase to our front door.

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Each morning, I sit on the balcony with an espresso watching locals on their baguette runs, while Sundays are market day on nearby Rue des Martyrs, where tables are laden with cheese, wine and paintings.

Just five minutes’ walk away is Bouillon Pigalle, a modern French bistro, where Molly and her older brother Elliot, 11, marvel at the black-and-white uniformed waiters buzzing about.

We order a litre of citronnade, £8.85, which the kids speedily drain, before digging into oeufs mayonnaises, £2.20, as a starter, and demolishing steak frites, £10.90.

Our puddings – crème brulée, £3.30, and chocolate mousse, £3.25 – are also a triumph (Bouillonlesite.com).

Vuitton & Views

The next day, we head to the incredible Fondation Louis Vuitton in north-west Paris, designed by architect Frank Gehry using thousands of custom-carved glass panes, making the building resemble a boat.

Kids can borrow iPads that guide them through the gallery’s modern and contemporary art exhibits.

From the top terraces, we soak up the view over the city and the Eiffel Tower, before heading next door to Le Jardin d’Acclimatation, included in the entry fee, to explore its landscaped gardens and amusement park, complete with fairground rides, mini golf and a house of mirrors.

A family ticket costs £27 (Fondationlouisvuitton.fr).

Another gem we all adore is Passage Jouffroy, one of a series of 19th-century covered arcades.

The kids love roaming around Pain d’Epices, a magical toy shop (Paindepices.fr), while the original, stunning site of the oldest chocolatier in Paris, À La Mère de Famille, which opened in 1761, sits close by on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.

The chocolates here really are miniature masterpieces (Lameredefamille.com).

That evening, we check out Bouillon Julien, half an hour’s walk away from our apartment.

The jaw-dropping art nouveau paintings and glasswork must make this bistro one of the capital’s most beautiful.

The food is excellent, too.

We order the avocado and prawn cocktail, £4.35, then yet another steak and chips with an amazing house butter, £11.25, washed down with a carafe of merlot, £6.90 (Bouillon-julien.com).

Santé to being well-fed and well-cultured!

PASSENGERS are facing travel chaos this bank holiday following a signalling issue impacting routes to Heathrow Airport.

There are major delays on the Elizabeth Line and Heathrow Express trains wreaking havoc for those trying to reach the airport today.

Earlier this evening, customers travelling to Heathrow Airport have been hit with severe delays to their journey.

A signalling failure in the London Paddington area has meant there’s a reduced service on the Elizabeth Line and Heathrow Express trains.

Trains running between London Paddington and Heathrow Airport or Reading may be cancelled, delayed by up to 45 minutes or revised.

These delays are expected to last until the end of the day.

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According to Heathrow Express’ website, there are delays in both directions with only two trains departing every hour.

Meanwhile, the Elizabeth Line has reported severe delays between Paddington and Heathrow Terminals while a signal fault in the Southall area is fixed.

The service is also severely reduced, with some stations currently not being served.

On the National Rail site, they advise those travelling from the east to change at Whitechapel for service to Heathrow Terminal 4.

At the moment, services for Heathrow Terminal 5 will terminate before reaching Heathrow, so passengers are advised to arrive at Heathrow and use the free terminal transfers available at the airport.

Transport for London have said that tickets are being accepted on London Underground.

But for those travelling to Heathrow, the Underground doesn’t offer much of a solution.

This bank holiday the Piccadilly Line is undergoing planned engineering works, with no service from Hyde Park Corner to Uxbridge or Northfields.

However, tickets are being accepted by Great Western Rail and local bus services in order to get passengers to Heathrow Airport.

A spokesperson for Great Western Rail said: “Network Rail are currently investigating a signalling issue affecting the relief lines just outside of Paddington.

“To help keep trains running, some services are being reduced – and we’re advising customers travelling to or from Paddington to check before they travel.”

TfL said: “The Elizabeth line services are currently impacted by signalling issues in the Hayes & Harlington area.

“There is a severely reduced service, with some stations not being served, though we are currently looking to increase services.

“There is alternative ticket acceptance with GWR and local bus services.”

THE American city of Philadelphia may be known as the home of brotherly love – but loves a good fight.

Its name combines the ancient Greek words philos, which translates as love or friendship, and adelphos, meaning brother, because founding father William Penn envisaged it as a haven of tolerance and peace.

But the US state of Pennsylvania’s largest city is also, of course, where the Rocky movies were filmed — and everywhere homage is paid to cinema’s most famous boxer.

Philly also has another claim to fame, though, as the place where the American Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776 — and this year marks the 250th anniversary of that treaty. So there is plenty to explore.

Our base was the Loews Philadelphia hotel, a 20-minuite drive from the airport and just yards from the City Hall — topped by a 37ft statue of William Penn.

The hotel is also handy for many a fine restaurant and bar — including the historic McGillin’s Old Ale House bar and restaurant.

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The beer taps here have been pumping out ale since 1860 and the kitchen cooks up the city’s most famous dish — Philly cheesesteak.

This feast was the perfect introduction to my stay in town — layers of finely cut beef and sauteed onions shaped into a long roll and drenched in melted cheese.

Just forget that your arteries are closing as you eat it — and enjoy.

We did.

Less than a 20-minute walk from here is Independence Hall, where that treaty was born.

Before entering, do swing by the Liberty Bell, just opposite, which rang out as America’s founding fathers, also including George Washington, finalised America’s break from mother country Great Britain.

Sadly, the 3ft-high bronze bell, which weighs nearly a ton, no longer rings out due to a crack that opened up in the 19th Century.

But on special occasions, it is tapped with a mallet.

Bell ticked off, as you step inside Independence Hall you are transported back 250 years, with history all around you.

It is free to enter but tickets at busy hours are limited so make sure you book your time slot well in advance.

Number one attraction is the room where the Declaration of Independence was signed, as well as the US Constitution 11 years later.

For a spot of culture, not far from Independence Hall is the Barnes Foundation — possibly the greatest art museum that, er, no one has ever heard of.

And then just a 15-minute walk up the road is the place for your must-have Philly holiday snap — next to the Rocky statue.

This 8ft 6in bronze tribute of Rocky Balbao stands at the foot of the 72 steps up to the Museum of Art which the underdog slugger played by Sylvester Stallone famously ran up as part of his gruelling big-fight training.

If all the sightseeing leaves you working up an appetite, there are plenty of fabulous eating places to choose from.

One such is the Reading Terminal Market, which is home to more than 75 stalls selling every food delicacy you can possibly imagine — and then some.

Or, for a proper sit-down feast, the Gran Caffe L’Aquila is a good bet — and particularly renowned for its award-winning gelatos.

I called it posh ice cream — and got a glare.

If, on the other hand, you want to find out what the locals really eat, book on to a Streats of Philly Food Tour and open your eyes, and mouth, to no end of tasty treats.

There are several tours to choose from, many led by chef Jacquie who grew up in the area and seemingly knows everyone in town.

I opted for the Italian Market tour and, over the course of two and a half hours, sampled fare including pork sandwiches, local cheeses and cannolis.

But do just remember not to eat anything before you go — the helpings were so generous that, after I later made for the airport to return home, I had to practically roll on to the plane.

OUR Spotlight On column takes an in-depth look at the best things to see and do in popular holiday destinations, as well as shining a light on some of the lesser-known spots.

This week, we are highlighting Vancouver in Canada, which will be hosting World Cup matches.

The Sun’s Assistant Travel Editor Sophie Swietochowski said: “Vancouver is possibly the best spot in the world for holidaymakers that want to blend nature with a city break.

“The glorious Grouse Mountain is around a 15-minute from Downtown and offers nighttime skiing or glorious hikes in summer, while its main park borders the ocean and is a great place for spotting wildlife, including whales if you’re lucky!

“When you’re not soaking up the great outdoors, the shopping and restaurant scene is absolutely pumping with new trendy spots cropping up on a monthly basis.”

MUST SEE/DO

Granville Island is a popular spot, for a very good reason.

TOP SPOT

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SHOW TIME

New ‘world-class’ £54million museum set to open in one of UK’s prettiest cities

The former industrial hub is littered with quirky crafts shops selling handmade goods that you won’t find anywhere else.

There are food markets too, selling the freshest of fish caught in local waters, as well as warm doughnuts and artisan pickles.

Harry Styles is reportedly a big fan of Hobbs Pickles.

HIDDEN GEM

While wellness may not be at the forefront of your visit to Vancouver, it has become huge on the local scene. Circle Wellness is a unique spa experience that will leave you feeling refreshed.

Visitors will get access to their own converted shipping container to undergo a therapy circuit of hot stones, a cold plunge pool and Himalayan salt chamber.

BEST VIEW

Many associate Vancouver’s mountains with skiing, but while it may be a popular sport in winter, that is not all there is to do.

Grouse Mountain is just as gorgeous in the spring and summer months.

It is celebrating its 100th commercial birthday this year and you can join in the celebrations by soaking up its beauty on one of many hiking trails or by mountain biking along its craggy paths. The views will blow your socks off.

Or take a stroll around Stanley Park, which is larger than New York‘s Central Park and has a sea-wall walk from which you might be able to spot whales.

RATED RESTAURANT

There’s no shortage of excellent sushi restaurants, thanks to Vancouver’s waterside location.

Some of the best sushi can be found at Miku Restaurant, which does an excellent deal with ten pieces of sushi, rolls and nigiri, plus appetisers and miso soup.

But you can pretty much sample any cuisine you wish in this city.

For cracking Vietnamese food, head to Anh and Chi, or for tapas, Como Taperia.

BEST BAR

Stanley Park Brewing occupies a prime spot in the park and is a great spot for ale lovers.

It brews its own tipples inhouse and you can sample a selection by ordering the beer flight or paddle.

If you are after something sophisticated, The Keefer has been voted the best bar in Canada and serves punchy cocktails.

Boozy drinks are described as “prescriptions” on the menu, with a section dedicated to concoctions inspired by sound.

HOTEL PICK

The 4H Westin Bayshore is well located by Stanley Park and near the main shopping hub.

There is a decent cocktail bar downstairs where mixologists like to get creative, incorporating theatrical props into the drinks.

There is an on-site spa and gym too.

Rooms cost from $224 per night (around £120). See marriott.com.

Shocking images caught the hours long queues bank holiday travellers faced in Dover and Folkestone on the hottest days of the year so far

Bank holiday travellers have been plunged into chaos as some drivers were forced to wait nearly five hours for ferries at Dover.

Brits looking to escape the UK for the long weekend and hot weather were dealt with a massive blow as thousands of cars were kept waiting in sweltering temperatures. Shocking images showed massive queues at the Port of Dover as people tried to catch ferries over to mainland Europe.

The port issued a warning to travellers and the new EU border checks were suspended to help ease the massive congestion on one of the hottest days of the year so far.

Motorists heading to the Eurotunnel for the LeShuttle railway reported delays of an hour or more to check-in in Folkestone.

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Motorists, on Saturday morning, faced delays of up to two hours to reach the port then a wait of up to two and a half hours to complete immigration and processing before getting on their ferries.

The news entry/exit system (EES) involves people from third-party countries, like the UK, having their fingerprints registered and photograph taken to enter the Schengen Area.

The port, in a statement to holidaymakers amid the travel chaos, warned this bank holiday was the first major period it has faced with the new EES system in place.

It said: “We recognise that the border process is slower with the current EES system, and this May Half Term is the first peak period since its introduction.

“French border teams are doing their best within the parameters given and are working with the highest available resources. We are continuing to work hard with them and our other partners to reduce wait times and get you on your way as quickly as possible. It is extremely important to stick to main routes on your journey to the Port, as not doing so causes extra delays and access issues for our local community.”

‘Are you caught up in the Dover queues? Contact us at webnews@trinitymirror.com

In a desperate bid to ease congestion, the French authorities suspended extra EU border checks under the EES, the port announced. It also said anyone who has missed their ferry crossing because of queues can travel on the next available slot free of charge.

Holidaymakers also faced hours long waits at Dover on Friday, but the congestion has appeared to ease on Saturday afternoon. In an update around 1.15pm on Saturday, the port said the processing time for tourist traffic had dropped to 50 minutes.

Despite this, the port said there were “still queues in the check-in plaza for tourist traffic and approach lanes for all ferry operators”. More than 8,000 travellers are expected at the port on Saturday.

The travel nightmare comes on a long weekend where multiple temperature records could be broken – with parts of the UK possibly hotter than the Seychelles on Saturday. Records could be broken for the the hottest May day in the UK and England, currently 32.8C; the hottest May day in Wales, currently 30.6C ; as well as the UK and England’s hottest bank holiday, which sits for now at 33.3C, according to the Met Office.

Highs of 30C are likely to be seen in the south of England on Saturday after the UK saw the hottest day of the year so far when temperatures hit 28.4C in Heathrow, Cambridge and Cranwell in Lincolnshire on Friday afternoon. This would be hotter than the temperatures forecast for popular holiday spots like Split in Croatia and even Victoria in the Seychelles.

The UK Health Security Agency (UKHSA) issued amber heat health alerts on Friday morning for the East Midlands, West Midlands, the east of England, London and the South East. They will remain in place until 5pm on Wednesday and replace less severe yellow alerts which were previously issued.

The alerts mean there is likely to be “a rise in deaths, particularly among those aged 65 and over or with health conditions” and increased demand on all health and social care services, according to the UKHSA website. Yellow alerts have been issued for the north-east and north-west of England, Yorkshire and Humber, and the South West.

I’M not ashamed to admit that hotel breakfast rooms have seen me in some right states.

No make-up, unbrushed hair, sunglasses on to disguise a hangover, and shorts that, yes, could be my pyjama bottoms.

No matter how early I set my alarm to make that 7.30am-to- 10am breakfast slot, it’s always a last-minute rush to get there.

After all, who wants to get up at the crack of dawn on holiday?

But finally there’s a solution — a newly made-over hotel chain squarely aimed at people who love a lie-in — and possibly multiple morning meals.

At Tent Hotels — they have nine properties in Spain, seven across Majorca then one in Girona and one in Malaga — brunch runs from 7am until 1.30pm.

OH GAUD!

I visited the Spanish city with famous 114-year-old attraction & TUI city breaks

ISLE GO

European city ‘perfect for island hopping’ with world-best beach & bars in the sand

And the best part? You can go back to load up your plate as many times as you like.

So if you try to be healthy at 9am with a fruit plate and a smoothie, then regret it, you can return at 1pm for a sausage sandwich, a plate full of pastries and three cappuccinos.

When I stayed at the Tent Bahia de Palma, in the Majorcan resort of S’Arenal about eight miles from capital city Palma, the buffet was overwhelming. It had everything from pastries to a full fry-up, salads and open sandwiches.

At one point I even considered a slice of pizza to go with my chicken sausages — surprisingly nice — and Spanish tortilla.

It’s a good thing the gym at the hotel is open 24 hours a day — but then again, so is the bar.

And after a few hours spent digesting my trip — OK, two trips — to the brunch buffet on the hotel’s Instagrammable red-and- white checked sunbeds by the pool, it was time to explore S’Arenal’s beach.

Here, the water is unbelievably clear and the sand — which I watched being lovingly raked each morning — is white and gloriously litter-free.

The main beach is flanked by a strip of bars, as well as wooden umbrellas for shade, and children’s play areas.

The bars all offer fabulous views of the ocean — but be warned, they shut at 6pm, so sunsets are best watched from the sands.

If you’re looking to snorkel, the island’s famed rocky-inlet beaches, called calas, are on the island’s south coast.

The most easily accessible from Tent Bahia de Palma is Cala Mosques. It’s ten minutes from S’Arenal on the 504 bus, then a five-minute stroll through the posh Cala Blava area, to find the steps down to the cove.

As you walk down the hill, you’ll spot a small sandy beach surrounded by majestic rock formations and lapped by the bluest water you’ve ever seen.

Take a mask and snorkel and you’ll be able to spot saddled sea bream and parrot fish — but watch out for brave locals jumping off the cliffs into the sea.

If you want to swap beach bars for the island’s capital, Palma, it’s just a short trip from S’Arenal — the 504 bus takes 15 minutes and costs just over £2 one way.

But remember to tap on and off the bus with your bank card to pay the correct fare.

Get off at Le Seu, the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma, which was built between 1229 and 1601. It’s one of the biggest cathedrals in Europe. Entry is 11 euros, or 30 euros for a guided tour.

Palma’s streets are lined with tapas restaurants and bars and the capital’s pedestrianised Passeig del Born has a lot of them, as well as a mix of high-end shops and historic buildings.

Stroll down the tree-lined road like Majorcans do after work, or step into the back streets to find Bar Espanya — a traditional tapas bar full of locals eating pintxos — small tapas snacks laid out on the bar — for £2 a plate.

I polished off a tuna paté on bread and Iberian ham croquette pintxos, but they also had prawns, deep-fried cheese and sobrasada, which is a cured pork sausage.

After dinner, don’t miss Palma’s most dramatic place to enjoy a cocktail, Bar Abaco — a no-reservations spot in an old house filled with flowers and very over-the-top decor.

With piles of fake fruit, massive bouquets and a fountain in the courtyard, it’s like stepping into an episode of TV hit The White Lotus.

I recommend getting there soon after it opens at 8pm — and it’s well worth a trip to the loos to fully explore the mansion and snap a few pictures away from the “no photography” signs downstairs.

Just a few minutes’ walk away — and on the way to the bus stop that will take you back to S’Arenal — Bar Rita is a beautiful, old locals’ bar that lies in the shadow of the Nostra Senyora dels Socors church.

With eight tables in a square, a cash-only rule and glasses of white wine for around £3, it’s the perfect place to end the night.

ALBANIA’S capital Tirana has just been ranked the third cheapest city for a weekend break in 2026. 

And when it comes to the accommodation, it pips the rest on the affordability scale. 

But its low prices are just the start. It’s great for food, bars and quirky sightseeing . . .  

WHY SHOULD I GO? 

THE city is one of Europe’s most underrated destinations. It has a fascinating history, which has been marked by periods of occupation and a harsh dictatorship that lasted until the 1990s. 

This has left its mark on the city skyline, which is a striking mix of brutalist, communist-era buildings and quirky architecture, including Tirana’s Rock — a 26-storey building uniquely shaped like a face. 

Plus, with round-trip flights from just over £30 — and only taking three hours — and temperatures that reach 34C in summer time, visiting is a no-brainer. 

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OH GAUD!

I visited the Spanish city with famous 114-year-old attraction & TUI city breaks

STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? 

THE centre is very walkable, with wide, tree-lined boulevards that criss-cross the main squares and key attractions. 

For a comprehensive introduction to the city, join the on-foot Tirana Free Tour, which departs five times a day from outside the Opera House. 

You will likely begin at Skanderbeg Square — the city’s main central plaza, named after Albania’s national hero.  

From here, you will be within easy reach of several attractions — The National Historical Museum, Et’hem Bej Mosque and Opera House. 

If you want to venture farther afield, Kruje is an historic town 12 miles north of Tirana. Buses from the main terminal cost less than £1, or you can get a taxi for around £25.  

The town is home to medieval castle ruins and has a bazaar packed with beautiful Albanian rugs and cashmere, which make perfect souvenirs. 

The mountain backdrop is a showstopper, too.  

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? 

A MUST-visit is the House of Leaves — former HQ of the country’s secret police. 

It is now a museum exploring the extensive surveillance and spying that Albanians endured during the dictatorship. 

And for cracking views, don’t miss a cable-car ride through Dajti National Park, a short taxi ride north of the city centre.  

There are a wide array of activities at the top of the mountain, including mini-golf and a shooting gallery, but those seeking a more relaxing experience should visit just before sunset to witness the stunning golden hour.  

For some proper R&R, head to Ritual Spa and Hammam.  

Hidden behind an unassuming door on the second floor of an apartment building, the space opens up into a beautifully curated sanctuary complete with wellness areas, including a sauna, steam room and salt room. 

Treatments are cheap, too, with facials from £22 and hour-long massages for under £40. 

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? 

ALBANIAN food is a hearty, homely blend of Mediterranean and Balkan flavours.  

Oda restaurant in the Zona 1 area of the city is properly authentic, serving stuffed peppers, slow-baked lamb with yoghurt and flaky homemade pastries filled with cheese and spinach. 

You can dine outdoors under the shade of pomegranate and lemon trees while a roaming folk band brings the garden to life with traditional music. 

For budget-friendly bites, try the street-food stalls at the New Bazaar in the Pazari i Ri neighbourhood.  

Be sure to get your hands on a byrek — a filo pastry stuffed with meat or cheese that you can pick up for less than £1. 

I FANCY A DRINK… 

A WANDER through the lively streets of the Blloku neighbourhood will reward visitors with stylish speakeasy-style bars.  

During the dictatorship, this area was reserved for the communist elite and ordinary Albanians were not allowed to enter. 

But today, it’s the epicentre of nightlife in Tirana — and everyone is welcome. 

Start at Mugo, a chic bar with a low-lit, leafy garden, serving cocktails dressed with sugared fruit and edible flowers, all for under £10. Nunu, just across the road, is equally indulgent.  

Then continue along Pjeter Bogdani Street for a ready-made bar crawl, where casual drinking spots spill out on to the pavement and pints come in at under £4. 

For a proper Albanian night out, head to Ava Club, where DJs mix Balkan tracks with electronic beats and crowds whip white handkerchiefs through the air — a lively tradition that gets the whole place buzzing. 

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? 

FOR a central base, stay in the Tregu Cam district, or Blloku if you want somewhere a bit livelier. Budget, mid-range and boutique options are available in both districts. 

But for something basic yet reliable and very well located, look to the Tirana International Hotel, which has affordable rooms, an on-site casino, two restaurants and a bar. 

I’VE lived on Kent’s trendy coastline for more than five years, so I think I can legitimately call myself a local now.

After ditching London in my late twenties, I’ve lived in both Margate and Folkestone, while spending my weekends exploring the other seaside towns.

In the last 15 years, Kent’s seaside towns have arguably seen the biggest transformations of the whole British coast.

That’s due to a combination of new investment, an influx of ‘down from Londoners’ moving in and a reignited love of the traditional seaside break among Millennials.

But which town you should visit depends on what type of trip you’re looking for.

So here are my top tips for seven of the best Kent beach towns and villages, from what to do and where to eat, to the best hotel and things to do under a fiver.

Whitstable

One of the more established Kent seaside towns, Whitstable is famous for its annual Oyster festival and has been a popular tourist destination for the last few decades – long before towns like Margate saw a resurgence.

Eat and drink in Whitstable

Blueprint Coffee and Books is the kind of place where you’ll go in for a cappuccino but come out with magazines and a candle.

The pastel pink Wheelers Oyster Bar is where everyone goes for their seafood (and for good reason) but if you fancy something other than fish, Harbour Street Tapas is the place for Spanish sharing plates.

In the summer months, the Old Neptune pub is a must, where the pub garden is right on the beach. Or try Porto Wine Bar, tucked a bit further down for staff who really know their wines.

Don’t forget an ice-cream – Bear’s Ice Cream Imaginarium has everything from classics to more unusual flavours like celeriac and wasabi. Yes, really.

Best things to do in Whitstable

Harbour Street is home to some fantastic vintage shops to explore. I picked up a jumper worth £69 for a fiver, so it has some treasures if you look hard enough.

There’s also Whitstable Harbour, still a working harbour, to explore as well as the free-to-visit Whitstable Castle with beautiful gardens and a kids’ play area.

Really fancy a dip? Brave the water with the other cold water swimmers but make sure to warm up in the Sea Scrub Sauna, one of many around Kent.

Where to stay in Whitstable

The Marine Hotel is a classic coastal B&B, with big chunky king size beds and windows thick enough to keep out the sea breeze.

The restaurant is where you will join the locals on a Friday night with a classic but hearty menu making you grateful for the proximity of your room.

Rooms from £125. See marinewhitstable.com.

Under £5 in Whitstable

Why not test your crabbing skills?

Head to the end of the harbour and pick up a crabbing net from one of the stalls which are usually under a fiver and see what you can catch.

Margate

Nicknamed Shoreditch-on-Sea, Margate is known for being one of the trendiest beach towns in the country.

As well as having one of Kent’s rare sandy beaches (most are shingle) this has also seen a huge increase in cool wine bars and restaurants.

Eat and drink in Margate

Start your day at Big Shot Diner for a cup of tea while looking out over the beach, or the Bus Cafe for a great full English breakfast.

When it comes to fish, the best chippies in town are Peter’s Fish Factory and Beach Buoys, so expect queues out the door, or for a fancier sit down affair, head to Angela’s.

Pizza by the slice is best at Palm’s Pizzeria, best chased by a pickleback shot (whisky and pickle juice).

There are some great wine bars too but my favourite place to go are the pubs in Margate.

Try Rose in June for fun food and drink pop ups or the 18th century George & Heart House, which also has rooms above if you fancy staying the night.

Best things to do in Margate

The beach itself is beautiful but for more adrenaline-fuelled fun, head to the free-to-visit Dreamland.

You can pay for rides, or just take in the retro-style attraction – come in the summer for the fantastic live music line up ranging from Lovebox to Bastille.

Or did you know Margate is home to Europe’s only Crab Museum? It’s certainly quirky but one to visit as its free, although they rely on donations.

And of course there is the free Turner Contemporary art gallery as well, which is reopening on May 23 with a new exhibit.

Where to stay in Margate

Lots of boutique hotels have opened in Margate in recent years, and one of the best is Guesthouse No.42.

One of just four in the UK, it even has the town’s only rooftop bar, which overlooks the beach.

Rooms start from £141. See guesthousehotels.co.uk.

Under £5 in Margate

The bizarre Shell Grotto remains a mystery as to why or how it was built – but its a beauty to see.

Concession tickets start from £5, kids tickets are £2.

Folkestone

Named one of the best places to live in the UK last year, Folkestone has seen a huge rise in popularity in recent years, partly because of its speedy, 52-minute train from London.

There are some new openings to be excited about too, including the Lower Leas Cliff funicular.

Eat and drink in Folkestone

After it’s success in Margate, Pomus opened their second small plate restaurant in Folkestone. It’s one of the smarter places in town, but service is just as friendly with a rotating menu of locally caught produce.

Award-winning Rocksalt is the place for fish lovers, overlooking the harbour (and the oysters are a must).

Or for something more low-key, there is the local-loved Morley’s which has a small but classic menu – think burgers and pastas.

If there is one thing Folkestone isn’t short of, it’s pubs – try the Harbour Inn or The Pullman for friendly staff and local ciders.

And splash out for the evening by heading to the end of the harbour for a glass of fizz at The Lighthouse Champagne Bar, or a cocktail at Gaia Studios.

Best things to do in Folkestone

The Harbour Arm celebrated 10 years this year, and you can easily spend a day in the shipping container yard.

Along with food and drink stalls, there are independent shops selling everything from locally-made wine to clothing and dog treats. It also has lots of live music throughout the year and live screenings of films and sports.

Also nearby is The Boardroom for darts and shuffleboard (currently closed for a renovation), while the new Sea Scrub Sauna is the largest of its kind in the UK. Otherwise go for a wander along to the Lower Leas Coastal Park, which is getting a huge new playground too.

Where to stay in Folkestone

The London & Paris Hotel is one of the few boutique hotels in town, where every room overlooks the harbour.

Each room is coastal chic – think blue striped walls and vintage bathtubs – and they come with little touches such as complimentary binoculars and breakfasts delivered by hamper.

Rooms start from £71. See londonandparishotel.co.uk.

Under £5 in Folkestone

Grab an ice cream from Herbert’s Gelato with a rotating menu of interesting flavours such as hot cross bun or malted milk. From £3.90.

Ramsgate

From welcoming Queen Victoria in the 1800s to having the UK’s only Royal Harbour, Ramsgate has a rather regal history.

Now, it is a popular seaside town still slightly overlooked by its trendier neighbours Margate and traditional Broadstairs, but it is a great weekend break.

Eat and drink in Ramsgate

Get your morning coffee at Staple (along with an irresistible cruffin to go) with cafes also open in Westgate and Broadstairs.

But for the best places to eat, there are two top choices. First up is Marc-Pierre’s Kitchen restaurant where you will find some of the best seafood in town (with enough awards to show for it).

Otherwise curry fans should head straight to Flavours by Kumar.

It’s tucked down a tiny hidden side street but with big restaurants under his belt, including London’s famous Cinnamon Club, you’re in good hands (make sure to save room for the chocolate samosas).

End your evening at Noa Rooftop, which opened last year, for a crisp glass of wine to watch the sunset.

Best things to do in Ramsgate

Ramsgate has the UK’s only Royal Harbour, so it is the best place to spot the boats coming in and out for the day.

But its wartime history is best learned about at the Ramsgate Tunnels.

There are daily tours of the underground system that is also the largest UK network of wartime tunnels.

Search the knick-knacks of Petticoat Emporium, one of Kent’s biggest indoor markets with 200 traders and where you can pick up everything from vintage spoons to huge wicker chairs.

Where to stay in Ramsgate

Ramsgate is more B&Bs than boutique hotels, but one of the best in town is the The House at Ramsgate which dates back to 1780. With just 14 rooms which are cosy but modern, choose the Queen Victoria Room where she spent three months in 1835. Make sure to stay for the roast dinners too…

Rooms from £90. See thehouseatramsgate.co.uk.

Under £5 in Ramsgate

Of course, a visit to Ramsgate isn’t complete with a trip to the Victorian Pavilion – the UK’s (and technically) the world’s biggest Wetherspoons pub, so spend around £4.50 for a pint of Corona and head to the rooftop for views over the beach.

Broadstairs

With strong connections to Charles Dickens (who raved about the place while holidaying there), Broadstairs is your more traditional seaside town.

It has seven sandy beaches to choose from, so you’re spoilt for choice.

Eat and drink in Broadstairs

If you love a good coffee, you’re in luck – there’s Giant Coffee, who do unique hot drinks like cloud matchas (and are also in Ramsgate and Margate) to Forts who are known for their great coffees across Kent.

Fish and chips are a must at the beach and everyone heads to The Mermaid who do very large portions.

Chase it with an ice cream at Morelli’s Gelato which dates back to 1907, they sell huge towering sundae with all the trimmings.

But for dinner, you can’t go wrong with the award-winning Bar Ingo, a tiny restaurant with just a few tables but serving small plates inspired by basque dishes.

I’m still dreaming of the miso mushrooms after my last visit.

Best things to do in Broadstairs

Broadstairs has the beautiful curved Viking Bay sandy beach, so hanging out there is a must. Grab a paddleboard or rent a deckchair; you can do what you like to while away the day.

There are also the retro arcades at the top of the hill, which are a surefire hit with the kids.

Or you can explore some of the independent shops selling trinkets and gifts on the high street (my favourites are Home by SP and Arrowsmiths).

Where to stay in Broadstairs

One of the newest hotels in Broadstairs is Smith’s Townhouse, with just six bedrooms in the Georgian building. Stylish east London interiors are across the downstairs cafe and the rooms – Room Five even has Elton John’s former wardrobe.

They have some of the best coffee in town – perfect for a breakfast pick me up – but stay for a vibe in the evening where you can get cocktails and nibbles too.

Rooms start from £140. See smithstownhouse.co.uk.

Under £5 in Broadstairs

Broadstairs was once raved about by Charles Dickens, so a visit to the Dickens House Museum is a must.

Inside is the inspiration for Betsey Trotwood’s home from the novel David Copperfield.

Tickets cost £5 for adults of £2.50 for kids.

Deal

The town of Deal is quickly becoming a foodie hub, with some critically-rated restaurants popping up.

It also has a great art scene, with numerous galleries and frequent exhibitions from local artists.

It’s on the smaller side than Whitstable or Folkestone, but also makes it far more walkable.

Eat and drink in Deal

Popup Cafe is, despite it’s name, not a pop-up but a fantastic coffee shop where you’ll be hanging with young families and coworkers on their laptops.

Mostly known only to locals, the local Jenkins & Son Fishmongers opens at certain days to offer street food dishes; I regularly make a trip for the Monkfish Tacos.

For pubs, try the Caribbean style roast at The Port Arms, which shares an outdoor seating area with the nearby Kings Head pub – also worth a drink in.

The recently revamped Le Pinardier wine bar will transport you to a French bistro (without the snobby staff when you ask for a Pinot Grigio, however).

Best things to do in Deal

The high street is full of art galleries and independent sellers, my favourites being The Hoxton Store, Mileage and 123 High Street for gifts.

Explore the brutalist Deal Pier, restored twice in its history and now one of the last remaining of its kind, where you can weave between the fishermen for some of the best views in town.

Kids will love Deal Castle where they can explore the hidden tunnels and even play pretend with wooden muskets.

Otherwise try and visit on a Saturday morning to catch the local market that dates back to 1699 – and fill your pockets with antiques and cinnamon buns.

Where to stay in Deal

The Rose Hotel is one of the UK’s best boutique hotels, with just nine cosy rooms. Make sure to try the restaurant too, its one of the finest in town with a previous menu highlight being the chicken shnitzel.

Rooms from £110. See therosedeal.com.

Under £5 in Deal

Grab a bottle of beer at the stunning Deal Pier Kitchen to get beautiful ocean views, while being protected from the sea winds.

Hythe

The military history of Hythe shapes it, being one of the UK Cinque Ports.

Now, its a sleepy seaside town, less crowded due to it being off the beaten track and having no major train station.

Eat and drink in Hythe

Arrive early and get a coffee from the tiny, locally-run Mit Milche Coffee although expect queues out the door by mid-morning.

Gorge on some moules mariniere at The Waterfront with a table outside by the promenade, where you can expect a range of live jazz and DJ music on certain days.

If you’re in the mood for something fancier, just on the outskirts is Hide & Fox which gained a second Michelin star last year.

Just come hungry if you opt for the eight-course menu.

If the sea air is a little brisk, warm up in the Kings Head pub, one of the oldest and cosiest in town dating back to 1583.

Best things to do in Hythe

The Royal Military Canal is prime for low-key strolling, running for 28 miles and made as an anti-invasion defence again Napoleon in 1803 (although it was never used.)

There are also the Hythe Sound Mirrors which were huge structures build to “listen” for enemy planes and have now been left abandoned – but worth a visit to see the sheer scale of them.

Make sure to take kids to the famous Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway, with small train carriages running a small route via Dungeness.

Want to get your shopping kicks? Head to Malthouse Arcade on Fridays and Saturdays with trinkets galore across two floors.

Where to stay in Hythe

You don’t get much grander than the Hythe Imperial Hotel, overlooking the English Channel. Inside an 18th manor house, there are 92 rooms to choose from. Save time for a cuppa in the Snug or a trip to its Moet & Chandon Bar.

Rooms from £146. See hytheimperial.co.uk.

Under £5 in Hythe

Why not have a free game of tennis, with five courts open to the public at South Road Sports Facility (although save a few quid to buy some more tennis balls for any rogue hits).

WITH three boisterous boys who like to keep busy on seaside staycays, we were spoilt for choice at Parkdean’s Highfield Grange. 

It’s a balancing act finding fun for all the family when you’ve got a six-year-old daredevil, a tween who’s too cool for school and a teen moving towards late nights and lie-ins. 

But thanks to £5million of investment at the family resort in Clacton-on-Sea, Essex, Parkdean offers something for everyone.  

You can’t miss the new outdoor activities complex — the high-ropes course towers above its surroundings and you’ve got a sports dome, playground, bounce park, Off-Road Rangers, Bear Grylls escape rooms and an al-fresco eating area below. 

Inside, a fairground-themed adventure golf course has been created in one corner of Hat Tricks sports bar and interactive darts and shuffleboard have been added, as well as a soft play area for under-fives. 

We stayed midweek over the Easter holiday and I was wowed by how many activities were on offer — we could have done something different every day and still not have tried everything.  

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On the entertainment front, the highlights included live wrestling, a panto and a guest talent show, as well as bingo, gameshows, children’s discos and live music. 

As a family, we thought the indoor golf was the best we’ve been to, thanks to the clever theming around fairground favourites like the ghost train, helter skelter and ferris wheel. 

We tackled both the high and low ropes — it’s great that you can book them separately or together, particularly if you have no head for heights.  

It meant I could try out the lower course first then decide whether to head up higher — although I found the low ropes more challenging than the upper course.  

My six-year-old completed both, with a little bit of help from his dad. 

If you’re after holiday staples like pedalling around the park on a kart or splashing in the pool, Parkdean has kept the core caravan-site classics and added lots of exciting new experiences on top. 

As a mum with an eye on the budget, I liked the range of activity passes that Parkdean had to offer.

The best value is the £100 Ultimate bundle, which covers 16 paid-for activities and can be shared by friends and family in the same holiday party, bringing the cost of each session down to £6.25. 

Other activity passes sre also available. 

There’s a big choice of accommodation, too, from value two or three-bedroom caravans to luxury lodges.  

If your staycay style is using your caravan as a base and being out and about exploring all day, this could be the perfect park for you. 

The bright lights of Clacton Pier, with rides, arcades and attractions galore, are just five minutes away by car, 20 minutes by bus or a 45- minute stroll. 

And from here, the beaches all the way up the Essex Sunshine Coast are easily accessible.

We enjoyed a swim or an activity in the morning, before heading out for the day then going back to the site to watch a show, grab some food or enjoy the arcade of an evening. 

There are loads of food options for those who fancy giving cooking a miss, including Scoop for sweet treats and the Thunderbird Strip Shack for fried chicken, with its outdoor seating under cover in the new activity hub. 

But we stumbled across the best fish and chips we’ve had in a while on our way back from the pier.  

Skinners — on a parade of shops just round the corner from Highfield Grange — was packed with locals and there were a couple of picnic benches outside where you could eat your chippy tea. 

If you’re visiting during school term time, take a look at the all- inclusive offer Parkdean launched at the end of last year at some of its sites, including Highfield Grange.  

For £100 per adult and £40 per child, you can order three meals a day at the on-site restaurant on a four-night midweek break, plus unlimited soft and hot drinks.  

Even though alcohol, starters and puddings aren’t included, it’s great value for money. 

Parkdean certainly packs a punch when it comes to offering affordable family fun and food on a best-of-British break. 

Major rule changes have come into force

Millions of holidaymakers head to Spain each year, with the nation being a firm favourite with those from the UK. Prior to Brexit, British travellers could enter Spain fairly easily.

However, since the UK left the European Union, new rules have come into force. For instance, your passport must display a ‘date of issue’ that falls within 10 years of your arrival date, and if you renewed your passport prior to October 1, 2018, it could carry a date of issue exceeding 10 years, rendering it invalid for entering the Schengen zone (which includes Spain).

As well as this, those travelling on a British passport can only visit the Schengen area for 90 days in any 180-day period. And if you’re entering Spain you’ll need to scan your passport, have a photo taken of your face, and scan four of your fingerprints, under the new Entry/Exit System (EES).

Once you have registered for travel under the EES, your digital EES record is valid for three years or until your passport expires if this is within the three year window. According to the Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO), alongside a valid passport, UK visitors may also be required to produce a return or onward ticket and/or proof of valid travel insurance at border control.

You may also need to prove you have enough money for your stay, and show proof of accommodation. This could be a hotel booking, or the address of a property you own. Alternatively, this could be an invitation if staying with friends, family, or a third party, such as a ‘carta de invitation’ completed by your hosts.

EVERYONE loves a family day out, but let’s face it, everything is better when it’s free.

The much-loved Cotswold Farm Park run by Countryfile’s Adam Henson, has scooped up a Tripadvisor Traveller’s Choice Award for the last 15 years.

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel.

To celebrate, the attraction is offering free tickets to children, toddlers and babies.

The T&Cs are that it’s one complimentary ticket to each paying adult and or senior guest, and the offer is only running until the end of May.

Families can take advantage of the offer through May half-term and on the bank holiday (but make sure to book in advance).

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The farm park is open seven days a week with plenty of activities to enjoy from feeding time with lambs and baby goats to jumping on its bouncy castle and trying out the zip wire.

When it comes to animals, visitors can get up close and personal with lots of breeds.

There’s Gillie the Jersey Cow, Marge the Middle White Pig, and Attenborough the Highland bull calf.

Feeding sessions with some of the youngest animals happen twice daily at 11.30AM and 3.30PM with lambs and baby goats.

There’s also a chance to watch chicks hatch as well as meet guinea pigs, rabbits and ducklings.

When it comes to playtime, children can head into the Adventure Barn – which is perfect for rainy days with didi cars and soft play.

Outside children can jump up and down on bouncy pillows, go on swings, zip wire, pedal tractors, explore the sandpit and climbing frame.

There’s a wooded area for bird-spotting and bee hive to take a look at too.

Between May 23 and May 31 the farm is celebrating Bee Wild Week with new activities like daily talks from the farm’s beekeeper-in-training.

When it’s time to eat, head to The Ox Shed Restaurant for all-day dining from breakfast to dinner, and pizza evenings every Saturday night.

Families from further afield can book to stay on-site at the campsites.

It has tent pitches to glamping tents, luxury lodges and new cabins.

A one-night stay on a grass tent pitch with electric starts from £67.

Head of Sun Travel (Digital) Caroline McGuire visited the farm park last year, she said: “Spring is easily the best time to visit any farm in the UK, as new lambs, chicks, calves and piglets all arrive noisily on the scene.

“Inside the Discovery Barn, which teaches children all about farm animals, my five-year-old son petted chicks and baby rabbits, and was lucky enough to see a lamb being born.

“We refuelled at the on-site Ox Shed restaurant, dining on burgers and loaded salads, washed down with apple juice and a glass of Adam Henson’s own pale ale for me.”

BBC presenter Simon Reeve has named a unique city as his favourite in the world – and it might surprise you

BBC explorer Simon Reeve has named a city perched at the crossroads of East and West as his ultimate favourite destination on earth. He revealed his profound love for a place where he described history and culture as almost something you can reach out and touch.

Simon has visited more than 130 countries during a years-long career as a broadcaster. His favourite location centres on a bustling metropolis that straddles both Europe and Asia and is home to a jaw-dropping structure regarded as “one of the most stunning buildings on the planet”.

He told The Express: “In terms of a city, I think Istanbul is not just spectacular, but you can’t go there and not smell the history and the culture there. You know, I love how it’s clearly divided. You’ve got your old bit.

“You’ve got your modern bit. You’ve got your Eastern area, as well – the other side of the Bosphorus, Asia, basically. It is the point where, for a thousand years and more, the East and the West have met.”

When discussing what he describes as his “favourite little quirky thing”, Simon turns his attention to Hagia Sophia – the remarkable former basilica, now a grand mosque, which stands at around 1,600 years old.

He went on to explain how this world-famous landmark remains open to visitors while maintaining its status as an “incredible building”. He said: “I’ll tell you my favourite little quirky thing actually, in many a way; there’s a building in Istanbul called Hagia Sophia, which was a church, then a mosque, is now sort of a museum, just open as an attraction.”

Simon went on: “But it’s an incredible building – one of the most stunning buildings on the planet, and up at the top, inside on the upper balcony, there’s a bit of graffiti carved into the balcony.”

He was referring to ancient Viking runes carved into the Hagia Sophia during its time as a church. The National Museum of Denmark has confirmed the Viking visitors as Halvdan and Are.

Atlas Obscura reports that the inscription likely reads “Halfdan carved these runes” or “Halfdan was here”, a find that Simon described as particularly captivating, dubbing it his “favourite little bit”.

For the presenter, discovering the story of the rune-carving Vikings was a “chill down the spine moment”, emphasising that people have been explorers since the beginning of time.

He noted that throughout history, humans have always felt compelled to leave their mark and engage with these “incredible sights”.

He added: “It’s just a reminder that our ancestors travelled, and they were quite similar to us, actually. They probably wanted a beer, a selfie, and to leave a little bit of a mark behind.”

The UK is a haven for seaside escapes and days out at the beach, but there’s one beautiful town, offering golden sand beaches and turquoise waters, that has been hailed as a ‘must-visit’

The UK is set for a scorcher, so what better time to make the most of the British sunshine than a trip to a coastal town offering unspoilt beaches and a traditional seaside charm?

Some regions across the UK are set for a balmy 30C on Saturday, 23 May and 32C on Sunday – just in time for the May bank holiday. The blistering temperatures are even set to surpass Ibiza’s Mediterranean climate, which will peak at 23C and 24C over the weekend, undoubtedly encouraging Brits to embrace the glorious British weather.

And what better way than a trip to the beach? One particular UK gem that has been hailed as a “must-visit” and an ideal “car-free staycation” is the beautiful town of Lyme Regis.

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Dubbed the ‘Pearl of Dorset’, Lyme Regis is famed for its dramatic golden cliffs along the Jurassic Coast, sprawling beaches, its picturesque harbour and a colourful town brimming with independent businesses. There are plenty of attractions for the kids to enjoy by the sea, including a range of water activities, alongside fossil-hunting beaches, coastal walks, and inviting waters for a refreshing dip!

Ice cream shops are a given in this town, with parlours dotted down the promenade, along with various eateries offering the classic British dish of fish & chips to enjoy by the sea, or a refreshing drink from one of their cafés with seaside vistas. And what’s more, it’s very walkable, so once you’re there, you can really make the most of the British sunshine.

Sharing a local insight into the unsuspecting walkable town of Lyme Regis, owner of Dorset & Devon Holiday Cottages, Gemma Matthews, said: “Lyme Regis is a perfect example of a traditional seaside town, which has the benefit of being walkable, yet it’s often overlooked in favour of bigger destinations like Brighton or Bath, and that’s exactly what makes it special.”

“In Lyme, we’re spoilt by our picturesque beaches, fascinating museums, such as the Dinosaurland Fossil Museum, and local tourist attractions like The Town Mill, all located within a five-minute walk of each other. You can easily spend a day exploring on foot, whilst stopping to browse the independent boutiques or grabbing a bite to eat on Broad Street, one of the town’s central roads.”

Offering further recommendations for a day or weekend escape to the charming town, Gemma said: “If you’re happy to stroll a little further, the Marine Parade links the bottom of the town to The Cobb, a harbour wall which is a great spot for taking in the seaside views, especially at sunset.

“But one of Lyme Regis’ must-see attractions can only be accessed on foot – and only at certain times of day. The Ammonite pavement is a one-of-a-kind collection of fossils embedded in a limestone rock ledge, which can only be visited during low tide when you can walk towards it from Monmouth beach. It’s experiences like this that make walkable destinations so special, which you’d completely miss if you were driving.”

For those looking to book an escape along the picture-postcard seaside shores, Dorset & Devon Holiday Cottages offers a variety of accommodation options, where you’ll feel right at home. There are also the likes of Sykes Holiday Cottages and Holidaycottages.co.uk, which offer a range of stays in the region.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

A UK city has been revealed as more expensive than London and Dublin for a two-night weekend escape – and it’s almost £150 more than what you’d spend in the capital

The UK’s most expensive destination for a weekend break has been named, and it’s not where you might think.

London can be notoriously expensive for an escape, from the extortionate cost of a hotel, booked entertainment, meals, and the price of a pint at a pub. It can quickly add up, and research from Post Office Travel Money found that, on average, it can set a couple back £527.50 for a two-night stay in the capital over the weekend.

In a bid to help Brits get the best bang for their buck, the Post Office revealed the 50 cheapest European cities in their ‘City Costs Barometer 2026‘, after comparing the price of various items required for a holiday. Sarajevo, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, led the way with the most affordable two-night stay for two, followed by Bucharest, in Romania, and Tirana, in Albania.

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Destinations in the UK failed to make the top 20, with Cardiff in Wales ranked at 21 following a total of £377.64, and London holding a spot at 34. But interestingly, the list also revealed the UK’s most expensive city for a two-night weekend stay for two, and it was almost double the price of a trip to Cardiff, and nearly £150 more than a stay in London.

With its iconic castle that towers 260 feet above the city, set against the dramatic volcanic landscapes, historic landmarks, and picturesque cobbled streets, Edinburgh in Scotland is a popular destination for holidaymakers. Yet with that comes a hefty price tag, and the Post Office named it as the most expensive UK city for that desirable two-night escape.

Ranked at 48 on the list, the Post Office experts found that the average cost of a two-night trip to Edinburgh for two people would be a total of £668.10. They discovered that a cup of coffee would set someone back £3.50, a bottle of beer £6, a glass of wine £5.60, a three-course evening meal £118, and a sightseeing bus tour £18.

But it was the accommodation that really pushed up the price, with travellers forced to pay an average of £462 for a two-night stay for two at a three-star establishment in the city. So if you’re looking to save some extra cash but still want to book a staycation, you might want to consider Cardiff, after all, it was revealed as the cheapest UK destination for a weekend getaway.

Most expensive European cities

1. Oslo £733.99
2. Copenhagen £670.65
3. Edinburgh £668.10
4. Geneva £644.22
5. Barcelona £641.03
6. Dublin £610.79
7. Amsterdam £609.18
8. Cork £602.38
9. Venice £579.92
10. Madrid £579.92

Cheapest European cities

1. Sarajevo £248.27
2. Bucharest £258.07
3. Tirana £262.85
4. Belgrade £265.13
5. Trenĉin £271.64
6. Riga £278.19
7. Lille £289.33
8. Vilnius £289.39
9. Strasbourg
10. Podgorica £332.45

Laura Plunkett, head of Travel Money at Post Office, commented: “Despite concerns about rising prices abroad, there are many European cities offering great value for money. Sterling has remained fairly strong, but in these challenging times, it will pay holidaymakers to do their homework before booking to see where their pounds are likely to stretch furthest, even for short breaks.”

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

One by one, the visitors descend through a tight tunnel cut through volcanic rock into the damp foundations of the Teatro Romano buried beneath Herculaneum, with the weight of 2,000 years of city above them. “This is a time machine,” the guide says, “and we are going back.” It is pitch black as film-maker Gianfranco Rosi’s camera finds torchlight catching the tourists’ transparent waterproof capes, making them appear like ghosts.

Released on the streaming platform Mubi this March, Rosi’s documentary Pompei: Below the Clouds threads a needle from classical antiquity to the present day. Presented in ashen black and white, without narration or interviews, it places the viewer inside the region surrounding Naples and leaves us there, each scene presenting a place and a moment in the area’s long history.

Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and most visitors see only a fraction of it before boarding the Circumvesuviana at Porta Nolana and riding the narrow-gauge railway east to Pompei or Herculaneum. In Below the Clouds, Rosi does not alight there. He stays on the train, camera in hand, and traverses this seismic landscape – from the Sorrentine peninsula, crowned by Vesuvius in the east, to the lesser-known craters of the Phlegraean Fields in the west. The train, Rosi says, is “my time machine”. His lens draws us into the Naples most visitors never see.

As a film-maker myself, who has lived and worked in Naples for the past 15 years, I was inspired by Below the Clouds to make my own pilgrimage, and boarded the overcrowded, noisy trains I usually avoid.

Before the Circumvesuviana reaches the archaeological site of Pompei, it skirts the Bay of Naples, passing through a number of overlooked towns characterised by a stratification of history visible in the architecture. Drawing into the station of Torre Annunziata, Rosi holds the camera on the visible layers of the town’s history: diamond-patterned Roman brickwork cut from nearby volcanic quarries, Doric columns from an excavated Roman villa, and the still-lived-in mid-century housing blocks rising above them. That Roman villa is worth stopping for. Believed to have been built for Poppaea Sabina, the second wife of Emperor Nero, Villa Oplontis feels like a secret discovery. Its frescoes are almost untouched, its colonnade pristine, and on this day, as always, there was scarcely another soul in sight.

Back on the Circumvesuviana, I head east to Somma Vesuviana. A team from the University of Tokyo has been excavating here for decades, slowly uncovering the Villa Augustea, the imperial estate where the Emperor Augustus is believed to have died in AD14. It was not the great eruption of AD79 that buried the villa, but a later one in AD472. The archaeological treasures still buried across the region are so numerous that tomb raiders have long burrowed into the soft volcanic stone looking for loot to sell on.

A second train line, the Cumana, runs in the opposite direction. It departs from Montesanto station in central Naples and heads west, reaching Pozzuoli in 25 minutes. At the end of the line lies a working port city of 75,000 people living in the basin of one of the world’s most geologically active calderas (volcanic craters). The lore surrounding Vesuvius has long overshadowed the dangers posed by the Phlegraean Fields, which rumble daily beneath the city’s foundations.

Stepping off the train at Pozzuoli, I was hit by the pungent sulphuric smoke drifting over the port. I had timed my arrival for a simple lunch at Abbascio ù Mare (a local favourite serving fish landed from the boats that morning) before visiting the Macellum of Pozzuoli, a 2nd-century Roman market near the harbour. Here, I found the clearest record of what is known as bradyseism, the movement of magmatic fluid and gas beneath the surface of the Earth that lifts and lowers the land, sinking entire towns and raising them again centuries later. Halfway up the ancient columns, I spotted bands of small holes in the stone. These were bored by molluscs when the columns once stood metres below the bay. Rosi’s camera follows the phenomenon underwater, descending into the submerged ruins of nearby Baia, where robed marble figures stand upright on the seabed as shoals of fish drift over mosaics and between their feet.

Between east and west, at the intersection of the Circumvesuviana and the Cumana, lies Naples – known to the Greco-Romans as Neapolis (the new town) because it was new compared with Pompei and Baia. In the centre of the city, at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, Rosi films Maria, the museum’s archaeologist, deep in the storage vaults. This is what he calls the casaforte (the safe of memory) – shelf upon shelf of fragmented marble torsos, legs and busts, the overflow of 2,000 years of excavation. These artefacts are down here, Maria says, until it is their turn to return to the museum floor above – a mirror, Rosi suggests to me when we speak, of society’s own hierarchies. Like Rosi, I am obsessed with these perfectly formed marble figures, the survivors of catastrophe, that live in the galleries of the museum upstairs among the frescoes and bronzes, pulled from the same volcanic earth that buried thousands of people under Vesuvius.

Rosi juxtaposes the marble torsos with shots of dismembered ex-voto, small metal plates shaped like individual body parts. These are offerings, often left in churches or street shrines along with prayers to saints in exchange for bodily cures.

At the small church of Santa Maria Francesca delle Cinque Piaghe in the Quartieri Spagnoli, one of my favourite corners of the city, hundreds of ex-votos in the shape of pregnant women have been left for the saint of fertility. These practices, still very much alive today, speak to the Neapolitan impulse to marry the sacred and the profane.

Rosi’s film ends in an abandoned cinema somewhere along the train line, its seats destroyed, its screen partly intact. Into this ruin, Rosi projects clips from Roberto Rossellini’s Journey to Italy, a film about the past, playing in a ruin, in a city built on ruins, above a city that was itself once buried. Like a Chronovisor (a mythical 1950s invention that supposedly broadcast actual historical events), the cinema is where the present tense becomes the past even as you watch it. Just like Naples. Just like Below the Clouds.

By the end of the film’s nearly two-hour runtime, the viewer has made the same journey as those visitors descending into the foundations of the Teatro Romano in Herculaneum to behold and reflect on a civilisation buried mid-sentence. Below the Clouds insists, however, that this confrontation does not require a museum ticket. “We are already living inside the catastrophe,” says Rosi.

Pompei: Below the Clouds is available on Mubi. Herculaneum, Pompei, Villa Oplontis, Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli are open to visitors. The Circumvesuviana runs from Napoli Porta Nolana east to Pompei and Herculaneum. The Cumana line runs from Montesanto station west to Pozzuoli. Sophia Seymour offers bespoke city walks and itineraries through Looking for Lila