Travel Desk

The city has been highlighted by Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards: Best of the Best Restaurants for 2026, which is based on first-hand reviews from millions of travellers over the last year

A charming UK city with medieval streets and a towering minster is also home to the country’s best restaurants.

While the silver-spoon-holding residents of foodie capitals London, Manchester, and Edinburgh may consider themselves to live in the UK’s culinary epicentre, they’re wrong.

The newly released Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards: Best of the Best Restaurants for 2026, which is based on first-hand reviews from millions of travellers over the last year, shows there is one UK city with a far higher concentration of great eateries than anywhere else, despite having a population almost 50 times smaller than London.

The standout is York in North Yorkshire.

The city of 200,000 had the highest-ranked restaurants of anywhere in the UK, with Brazilian joint Casa Brazilian Rodizio ranking eighth worldwide. The family-run, authentic Brazilian rodizio-style restaurant aims to “provide an unforgettable authentic taste, service and experience for an unbeatable set price!” By all accounts, it has succeeded.

“Went out for a family meal yesterday, the food was absolutely amazing, the place was astonishing. The meat tasted rich, and the buffet had so many amazing options,” wrote one of Casa Brazilian Rodizio’s reviewers among the thousands awarding it 4.9/5 stars.

Other York restaurants performed really well in the UK rankings, with Buongiorno, Enoteca By L’uva and Damastique making the top 25 in the ‘best casual dining’ list. Legacy At The Grand also found itself at number seven in a rundown of the UK’s best date-night restaurants, and Melton’s reached the same spot on the ‘best fine dining’ rundown. And finally, the family-run Turkish outfit Kapadokya 50 was named one of the UK’s best hidden gems.

York’s rise to become the country’s premier gastronomy spot is an interesting one. The medieval city has always tempted in history buffs with its minster, Jorvik Centre and Quilt Museum, and it’s long boasted of having more pubs than days of the year to drink in them, a fact that seemed suspect when I lived there a decade ago and is almost certainly not true now. But the foodie revolution that’s taken place there is a more recent and quiet phenomenon.

A new crop of young chefs has been putting the city’s food in the spotlight, in backstreets from Micklegate to The Shambles. Among the gang is Tommy Banks, one of the youngest chefs in the UK to win a Michelin star, who leads Roots York in the city centre. His cooking relies heavily on homegrown produce, farm-to-table tasting menus, and unique preservation techniques.

Another is Ahmed Abdalla, head chef at Legacy inside The Grand hotel, who creates modern British tasting menus with classic Yorkshire ingredients. And Joshua and Victoria Overington run Restaurant Mýse, a place that specialises in local Anglo-Saxon culinary heritage.

The Michelin Guide lists 16 restaurants in York and its surroundings, three with stars and a Michelin Green Star, including Roots and Mýse.

Eduardo Caetano, owner of Casa Brazilian Rodizio, opened the restaurant 11 years ago. “The philosophy of the restaurant is casa, which means home. When you come in, you come into our home. You are my guest. If the food is not good enough for me, it’s not good enough for me,” he told the Mirror.

“The offering in York is an extremely competitive market, there are loads of places to eat. I love that there are so many family businesses here. For me, York is the only place in the world that feels like home.”

In terms of places in York he loves to eat, Eduardo recommended Delrio’s Italian Restaurant. “I love going there,” he added.

It’s not just in high-end restaurants that York is excelling; its casual dining scene is also strong. Recent additions doing well locally include authentic Neapolitan pizzeria Cresci Pizzeria, which has become a citywide favourite, while the gut-busting sandwiches of Browns in Heslington remain a cheap, filling option.

This all sits against a backdrop of the Shambles Market, York’s main daily open-air market, located at Silver Street in the heart of the city. Come early November, it is joined by the Christmas Market, with Alpine chalets filling up Parliament Street and St Sampson’s Square. Whether you find festive fare charming or a logistical impediment, stallholders not only bring a real buzz to the city, but plenty of gastro-delights.

You can get loaded on artisanal hot cocoa, locally made gin, scratchings, high-end crumble and much more.

Similarly, the long-term culinary heritage of York is evident in its fantastic pubs, many of which also serve up delicious food. The House of Trembling Madness is a wonderfully wonky pub that pairs cheese boards and yards of ale, while Valhalla York on Patrick Pool is a Viking-themed ale house serving hearty meat and cheese boards alongside local mead and ales.

The success of York as a food city is no accident. The city has actively invested in growing this reputation through events such as York Restaurant Week, now one of the UK’s biggest events of its kind since its 2019 launch, with the most recent edition doubling to two weeks and featuring over 100 participating venues. The previous October’s event saw over 22,000 vouchers downloaded, bringing in nearly £400,000 for local businesses, a 70% jump from the year before.

I did my first solo hike during a sunny September, seven years ago. After a summer of feeding and ferrying four noisy teenagers (and their friends) around, I was exhausted. But despite being bone tired, I had barely moved. I yearned, above all, for time on my own, for the chance to walk without interruption (and at the pace I chose), and for the silence of some empty wilderness.

But I was nervous. Not of being on my own, but of what might happen to me with no one around to help (breaking a bone, encountering a psychopath, being chased by a bull, getting fatally lost). I could have found a companion or joined a group, but my need for silence and solitude outweighed my fears.

It seems that many women feel the same: in the UK, the proportion of women solo hiking surged by 27% between 2020 and 2022. In America, 41 % of female hikers report regularly walking alone. And yet many women, although keen to do something similar, feel intimidated. According to researchers at the Munich University of Applied Sciences who are studying solo female walkers, 30% of women interviewed said they would like to hike solo but are hesitant.

In truth, women have long enjoyed a tradition of solo walking. From religious pilgrims to goat herders to 19th-century adventurers, there have always been women wandering, radically alone, through wild landscapes. But for those new to it, I’d say the best way to overcome your fear is to do it – and I’ve learned some simple ways to make the experience fun, not daunting.

That first solo hike followed a French canal. It was beautiful but sometimes felt a little too abandoned. It was also bereft of facilities, and frequently involved a long, complicated walk to my accommodation. So here are some of the things I now look for in a route: no discomfort-inducing stretches of urban wasteland; wide open landscapes (ridgeways, cliffs and hilltops are favourites); excellently waymarked, well-maintained paths (like national trails); navigation-lite routes that follow rivers, (lively) canals or coastlines; and countries/regions with a tradition of hiking.

I do my research with care, and I’ve always returned home exhilarated, revitalised and high on my own bravado. I’ve learned to avoid the trails where I might feel uncomfortable. I know now which landscapes calm me, and which trails are (almost) impossible to lose my way on.

For the last seven years, I’ve walked solo every autumn. Indeed, autumn is the perfect time for a liberating, empowering and restorative (solo) hike. Falling leaves improve visibility, temperatures are pleasant, and the days are still long enough to ensure I can reach my destination before dark. Importantly, there are lots of other walkers around – but without summer’s hordes – and the landscape is autumnally crisp and colourful.

If you’re new to solo walking, start with a single day. If you want to try walking for multiple days, consider paying for your luggage to be transported (or use a specialist tour operator who will plot your route, arrange accommodation and move bags). Otherwise pack as lightly as possible. Take a non-digital map and a stick/walking poles, and let someone know your arrival time. Study every aspect of your route – including transport options and the weather – before you set off.

FOUR GREAT ROUTES FOR SOLO HIKERS

The Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

The Swiss Alps are one of my favourite places to walk alone. Swiss women are keen solo hikers (so no one bats an eyelid at yet another single woman), the waymarking is superb and the scenery is jaw-dropping. Because this is a nation of farmers and hikers, there are always people (and a phone signal) around. And yet – because of the mountainous terrain – there’s often a genuine sense of wilderness and solitude. The Bernese Oberland is overrun with tourists in summer, but come to this Unesco world heritage site in autumn and you’ll be walking, calmly, in the footsteps of dozens of 19th-century women who once came here specifically to hike alone. Base yourself in the car-free villages of Wengen or Mürren, and expect to find farm-cafes with homemade cakes and honesty boxes in the remotest of spots.

The South Downs Way

From Eastbourne
To Kingston, near Lewes
Time 2 days
Distance 19 miles

The UK has plenty of well-kept trails, but top of my list is the (expansive, clearly signposted) South Downs Way. In summer the Eastbourne to Alfriston clifftop stretch heaves with tourists, but in autumn you’ll share the panoramic views – dazzling sea, dramatic chalk cliffs – with a handful of dogwalkers. Just a few steps off the trail are cultural hotspots like the pretty village of Alfriston, Charleston Farmhouse (museum home of the Bloomsbury set), and Rodmell, where you can visit Virginia Woolf’s house. So you’ll never feel completely disconnected.

The Cleveland Way

From Saltburn
To Filey
Time 4 days
Distance 52 miles

The Cleveland Way was the UK’s second official national trail, meaning the route is well maintained, the signage is excellent and the scenery is glorious, covering coastline and windblown moors. The moors can feel bleakly exposed in the wrong weather, so opt for the four-day coastal section, Saltburn to Filey, with its quirky towns and villages. This is Yorkshire so expect plenty of conversation with passing walkers and the chance to feel romantically windswept – an intoxicating blend for the solo hiker who wants to feel alone in nature, but not too alone.

The Fishermen’s Trail, southern Portugal

From Praia da Luz
To Sagres
Time 3 days
Distance 27 miles

The Fishermen’s Trail is far too hot in summer, but when I went (November) the temperature was just right, the sea was warm enough to swim in, and there were enough solo female hikers to feel pleasantly companioned. With some rocky scrambling to make one feel suitably youthful, and sufficient sandy coves to squeeze in a siesta, this route (a chain of old fishing villages) also has abundant, inexpensive accommodation and fresh seafood galore. Like other sea-hugging routes it’s (mostly) impossible to get lost – just follow the coastline.

I’ll leave the last word to writer Mathilde Blind, who (aged 19) walked alone through the Bernese Oberland in 1860 (no phone, no GPS, no bra, no waterproof trousers): “For once I felt truly free.”

Annabel Abbs is the author of The Walking Cure and Windswept: Why Women Walk. She was a guest of InnTravel on its Coastal Algarve and Fishermen’s Trail route, and of MACS Adventures on its Highlights of the Bernese Oberland route.

LOOKING to bag a bargain at sea? Now is THE time to embark on a booking.

The UK’s annual CLIA Cruise Week runs until Sunday and there are great deals to be had.

After a record 2.54million Brits headed up the gangway in 2025, it is time to join the party.

Nigel Thompson shares his pick of the offers to book now.

EASTERN CARIBBEAN – 14 nights from £1,349pp

JET away from selected UK airports on November 13 to join P&O’s newest ship Arvia in Barbados for a round-trip visiting Martinique, Saint Kitts, Tortola (British Virgin Islands), St Maarten, Antigua, Saint Lucia and Grenada.

Includes transfers and gratuities — and on applicable Select Price bookings up to December 17, get extra on-board spending up to £350 per cabin.

GO SI

Spain’s tiny island that thousands of tourists visit – but you won’t have heard of

SANDS GOOD

I found a UK beach with crystal clear water & no crowds that felt like Greece

See pocruises.com.

PORTUGAL, MOROCCO & MEDITERRANEAN – Seven nights from £449pp

SAVE £111pp on a winter warmer itinerary on Celestyal Discovery, sailing from Lisbon (overnight) to Tarragona (for Barcelona) via Tangier, Valencia, Majorca and Sete.

Soft drinks, wifi and gratuities are included, although flights cost extra. Departs on December 12.

See celestyal.com.

FRANCE, SPAIN & PORTUGAL – 14 nights from £1,115pp

ADULTS-only Ambassador Cruise Line’s Ambition sails a no-fly Easter trip from Tilbury, Essex, on March 24, 2027 visiting Honfleur, Le Verdon (for Bordeaux), Vigo (for Santiago de Compostela), Cadiz, Malaga, Lisbon and Leixoes (for Porto).

Use code CLIA10 during Cruise Week to get ten per cent off, with up to £400 on-board credit per cabin also on offer.

See ambassadorcruiseline.com.

RIVER NILE, EGYPT – Seven nights from £1,279pp

SAVE £778 per couple on a Tui River Cruises all-inclusive round trip from Luxor, flying from Gatwick on October 20.

Tui Bahareya will have overnight stays in Luxor and also call at Edfu, Kom Ombo and Aswan.

Passengers get two included shore excursions, 25kg luggage allowance and transfers, with tips and service charges covered.

See tui.co.uk/river-cruises.

WEST MEDITERRANEAN – Six nights from £2,835pp

BOUTIQUE brand Explora Journeys’ Explora II departs for Malta from Barcelona on March 14, 2027, with 30 per cent discounts on offer.

Visit La Spezia (for Pisa/Florence), Civitavecchia (for Rome), Naples and Sicily (Syracuse), with passengers enjoying benefits such as nine culinary experiences, in-suite dining, unlimited drinks, wifi, spa access, wellness activities and gratuities.

Flights extra. See explorajourneys.com.

RIVER MAIN, GERMANY – Four nights from £675pp

IT is never too early to start thinking about Christmas — and you can get a festive fix on a four-night sailing aboard Viva Cruises’ Tiara, departing on a round trip from Frankfurt on December 14.

The itinerary ticks off Wertheim, Wurzburg and Miltenberg and comes with a £100 flight credit offer, selected premium drinks, one complimentary high tea, welcome bottle of prosecco, wifi and gratuities.

See viva-cruises.com.

MEDITERRANEAN & PORTUGAL – Nine nights from £2,515pp

GOT cash to splash? Grab a half-price luxury voyage on adults-only Oceania Sirena, sailing on January 4, 2027 from Civitavecchia (Rome) to Lisbon via Livorno (for Pisa/Florence), Genoa, Nice, Marseille, Barcelona, Alicante, Motril (for Granada), Cadiz and Lisbon.

The deal includes a balcony cabin, speciality dining, gratuities, wifi and either wine and beer by the glass or shore excursion credit.

Flights extra. See oceaniacruises.com.

RIVER RHINE AND DUTCH WATERWAYS – Seven nights from £1,299pp

SAVE up to £750pp on an all-inclusive voyage from Rotterdam (overnight) to Mainz, Germany, aboard Saga River Cruises’ Spirit of the Rhine, departing on October 26, 2027.

En route, it visits Zaandam and Arnhem in the Netherlands and Germany’s Cologne and Rudesheim.

Bonus extras include flights, nationwide return chauffeur service to the UK airport, transfers, excursions, wifi and gratuities.

See travel.saga.co.uk.

ALASKA & CANADA – Seven nights from £1,404pp

THE Last Frontier’s glaciers, mountains and wildlife await on a Holland America Line round trip from beautiful Vancouver.

Koningsdam sails on May 1, 2027 and visits Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay and Ketchikan with scenic cruising along the Inside Passage.

Cruise Week extras include £25pp deposit, alcoholic drinks package, one night’s speciality dining, $100 shore excursion credit, premium wifi, $100 on-board credit and pre-paid gratuities.

Flights are extra. See hollandamerica.com.

IF you want an affordable hotel that feels way above its pay grade, you’re in luck.

Here is everything you need to know about staying at Holiday Inn Bloomsbury.

Where is the Holiday Inn Bloomsbury?

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the capital, Bloomsbury is known as a literary hub.

And the newly refurbished hotel has rooms inspired by 20th century British writers, artists and other creatives.

What are the rooms like?

There are 317 in total, each of which is fresh and bright.

I stayed in a Premium Room, which was bigger than typical London hotel rooms with enough room for a small sofa, desk and a bathroom of dreams.

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It also had little extras that make a trip special: earplugs, an eye mask and pillow spray.

I felt as though I was staying in a luxury hotel without the huge price tag. Rooms start from £199 per night for a King Premium. See ihg.com.

What is there to eat and drink there?

Dinner is served in the Artful Critic, which has a laid-back vibe and is open for food and drinks from 10am until 1am.

The menu showcases British classics: burgers, pasta, pizzas and curry plus daily specials. If you’re travelling with kids under 12, they eat free. Bonus.

Breakfast is served in a different area and as well as fruit, pastries, cold meats and cheese, there was an extensive hot selection.

There’s also an on-site Starbucks concession.

What else is at the hotel?

The hotel has an onsite gym and if you are travelling for work, the WiFi is really good.

Rare for London, there is an on-site car park.

But the hotel couldn’t be better placed for getting around London.

It is just a few steps away from Russell Square tube station and five minutes away from The British Museum.

Is it family friendly?

Kids under 17 eat and stay free. There are also family rooms where connecting rooms and cribs are available on request. 

Is there access for guests with disabilities?

For easy access there are a variety of features like wheelchair accessible rooms accompanied with grab bars, tall toilets, and handrails in bathrooms. 

For Orville Peck, the best Sundays are basically all the same. And they are pretty similar to every other day of the week too. The masked country singer (and now actor) got sober three years ago and has figured out a routine that helps him stay clear-minded and present with the people in his life whom he cares about.

In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.

“If I don’t keep up that routine, especially on a day like a Sunday, it quickly falls into no day feeling fun,” he says. “[The routine], which to some people is like, ‘Oh God, that looks like hell,’ is fun for me because it is fun for me to show up for myself.”

Peck’s latest album, “Mule,” which details his sobriety journey, is out Friday. That same day, he’s headlining the Hollywood Bowl, one of his favorite venues in the city.

Peck currently lives in the Hollywood Hills and has been in Los Angeles, on and off, for 18 years. “It’s definitely home to me,” he says. “I met my partner there. I’ve had some of the most important moments of my life in Los Angeles. I will always love this city.”

It’s also particularly conducive to his new lifestyle. “There’s a ton of other crazy people going to the gym and swimming and going to [12-step] meetings every single day,” Peck says. “So I’m in appropriately obsessive company for sure.”

This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.

5 a.m.: Early to rise

I wake up painfully early. I’ve been doing that since I was a toddler. I used to hold my mother’s eyelids open in the morning to get her to wake up.

When I wake up, the first thing I will do is meditation. I do transcendental meditation. I find every other form of meditation impossible. I’ll do TM for 20 minutes. My partner started doing it and I saw how much he was benefiting from it, so I decided to go and take the course and just loved it.

And then I’m an avid journaler, so I usually journal for probably about half an hour in the morning.

7 a.m.: Caffeination and hydration

I will make a very large iced coffee. I’m not snobbish about coffee, I’ll drink whatever.

I also fill up a massively obnoxious water bottle that has times on it that I carry everywhere. It looks like performative hydration, but it’s literally because if I don’t challenge myself to drink water, I just won’t drink water at all. It’s basically to shame myself into drinking water.

8 a.m.: Pool time, Part 1

I get to a public pool and I do laps. I grew up in South Africa and you’re forced to play every sport known to mankind. I always excelled at swimming, so it’s the one thing I still love to do. I just started up [again] within the last year.

I work out a lot, but when I’m at the gym, I don’t do any cardio. I’m never going to be on a treadmill or anything like that. Swimming feels like a fun way to keep me engaged.

10 a.m.: Meal prep

Then I go meet back up at home with my partner. We’ll go take our dog for a walk or we’ll go to a farmers market to get some produce for the week.

Then we’ll go grocery shopping because I love to cook. I will go to whatever is easiest. I’ll frequent a Gelson’s or a Ralphs or a Whole Foods. If I’m going to Whole Foods, I’m not doing regular grocery shopping. I want brands. I like a Coca-Cola.

I’d say I’m cooking usually about five or six nights a week. I’m very organized — I’m a Capricorn, if you can’t tell. I usually have a whole menu of what I’m going to do for the week, so I’ll get everything I need for that.

I will read a recipe or see a recipe I like, and then I will just freestyle it. I used to work in restaurants, so I feel pretty confident about it. But in terms of the style [of cooking], I’m best at recipes that take a long time, so anything that requires lengthy flavor building, like stews or curries.

Noon: Pool time, Part 2

Back at the house, we’ll have some lunch, something easy by the pool. So more swimming.

2 p.m.: Gym time

I’ll work out either at the house or go out to the gym. I’ve been sticking with a weight training routine for a couple of years now, but I try to evolve the exercises all the time because I get bored really easily.

Sometimes I work with a trainer. I filmed “Street Fighter” last year in Australia, so I did a ton of different training and martial arts training for months. It opened up my horizons to a lot of different forms of working out that I just didn’t know before. I’ve got a pretty big encyclopedia to pull from at this point.

4 p.m.: Recovery

I’ll usually head to a 12-step meeting, I’ll either catch one online or try to find one in person because there’s a lot around L.A.

6 p.m.: Not cooking tonight

On the weekend is where we will typically order in or eat out, maybe with some friends. Some places I love to order in from are the Sisters Cafe, which is Vietnamese, and Jon and Vinny’s.

9 p.m.: Early to bed

Both my partner and I are 80 years old at heart. We always have grand plans about watching a movie or whatever, and then we’re both inevitably snoring by 10 p.m. at the latest.

I used to live my life like a psycho maniac doing everything unhealthy. It definitely didn’t involve going to 12-step meetings and swimming laps at seven in the morning. It was whatever the opposite of that is.

When I went through the first two years of my sobriety, I went through a lot of trial and error in terms of overdoing it with things like therapy and mindfulness, and then also underdoing it as well. It took me a couple of years to really find what are the things that make me feel good about myself, make me feel grounded, make me feel accountable, and still feel like I’m living a happy life and not just white-knuckling 12 hours of, essentially, therapy every day. So I’ve found the things that really work for me.

There’s days where I will totally not do every one of those things. There’s days where I’m too lazy to go swimming and there are days where I’m like, “I don’t want to go to the gym.” I’m not militant about it. The other thing I’ve learned is to be easy with myself.

If you’re looking to add more magic to your life after watching Practical Magic 2, one woman has praised a village which feels like the real deal – and it’s in the UK

The highly anticipated sequel to the cult classic film Practical Magic recently premiered in cinemas. But while it’s always magical to return to the universe of your favourite film, what if you could visit a real life Practical Magic village?

In the book and the film, the Massachusetts small town where the Owens family lives appears to be the idyllic small town. And with the added element of having witches living there, many fans dream of visiting. But one village in the UK also has a unique connection to witches, making it the perfect alternative.

One holidaymaker named Emma decided to share snippets of her visit to the Hampshire village, naming it a ‘real life Practical Magic village’.

“POV: You found a real life Practical Magic village in England,” she wrote in the overlay text of the TikTok video, showing the various witchcraft and magic-inspired shops, as well as the wild horses that are known to explore the village of Burley.

Burley is a small village in Hampshire, located in the heart of the New Forest. It’s famous for its associations with witchcraft, as it had a self-proclaimed witch living there in the 1950s. However, there is plenty of other things to do there with an opportunity for walking, cycling, and horse-riding trails, plus horse-drawn carriage rides through the forest.

Emma added in the caption of the post: “Today, the village is filled with cosy cafes, witchy boutiques, and wild horses roaming down the streets.”

The village still maintains the ancient New Forest tradition of “commoning,” meaning ponies, cattle, and donkeys wander freely through the streets.

“It genuinely feels like stepping straight into the Owens family hometown,” she said. “Gather your coven and save this for your next UK day trip.”

Why is Burley considered a ‘witchy’ village?

Burley is associated with witches primarily because it was home to a woman named Sybil Leek. The famous self-proclaimed “white witch” lived in the Hampshire village during the 1950s.

She became a media sensation by openly practicing witchcraft shortly after the UK repealed the final Witchcraft Act in 1951. She regularly walked through the village wearing a long black cloak with her pet jackdaw, Mr. Hotfoot Jackson, perched on her shoulder.

But as locals were upset by her presence, Sybil decided to move to America where she continued to study and write about the occult and astrology.

Burley has since embraced its witchy history, as there are several shops specialising in magic, including A Coven of Witches, which was not only named by Sybil but you can also find a portrait of her hanging above the fireplace.

YOU’VE probably strolled past the Tower of London at least once – but did you know it’s the city’s oldest tourist attraction?

Parts of it have been open to the public since 1661, and it’s just started a new tour to meet eight of its feathery residents.

Called the Ravens Experience, the new early morning tour gives visitors a chance to meet all eight permanent residents, and early access to the tower itself.

The ravens are very important to the Tower of London as the legend is that if the birds ever leave, the country will fall to ruin.

Dubbed a ‘truly unique early mornings experience’, the new tour starts at 8.15am.

It begins with a 45-minute talk from a Yeoman Warder (a guardian of the Tower of London) about the ravens – before the cage is opened.

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Visitors can learn more about the ravens named Harris, Jubilee, Poppy, Edgar, Georgie, Chaos, Henry and Poe.

There’s a chance to take pictures and see them being released into the tower too.

The ticket also includes early entry to the Tower which means you skip the admission queue and are first in line as the Crown Jewels exhibition opens

And ticket holders get access to all public areas of the Tower of London.

Tickets for adults are £90, children between 5-16 are £50.00, concession tickets are £70 and under 5s go free – you have to book the tour in advance.

Building work first started work in 1078, so the historical attraction has been standing for almost 950 years.

Parts of it were first accessible since 1661 when the Crown Jewels were first put on display.

Other events at the Tower of London include Halloween special when the past will ‘creep back to life’.

There will be special visits from the ghostly past residents including a poet, pirate a queen, an astronomer – even a bear.

The Halloween trail is more family-friendly than scary and will take place between October 24 and November 1.

For those on Universal Credit, general admission tickets cost £1 each.

It was recently announced that the Tower of London will undergo a £70million project as it opens community spaces and learning centres.

CHEAP all inclusives aren’t just for Brits lucky enough to afford foreign holidays – there are some great value breaks with free food and drink in the UK too, if you delve deep enough.

Pay one price upfront and all your food, drinks, snacks and entertainment is provided on tap, meaning you can leave your wallet and your worries in your room – the issue is, most people have no idea they even exist.

All across the UK, secret staycation packages have started popping up with food and drink offers included in your booking.

The Sun’s Travel team have found some fab deals to book now, including autumn half term holidays and frugal festive breaks:

All prices are per person per night.

Butlin’s, Bognor Regis, £28pp a night

Famous for its family-friendly facilities, Redcoat entertainment and huge indoor waterpark, Butlin’s is now offering even more value for money with their new all-inclusive food and drinks bundles.

Available in Bognor Regis and Skegness, savvy guests can choose from a variety of packages starting with the budget-friendly Food Court deal, which includes both a buffet-style breakfast and dinner served in a sit-down restaurant.

Expect full English breakfast, an omelette bar, plus cereals and pastries and tea, coffee and juices.

Dinner options include a nightly roast option and dishes like piri-piri chicken and lasagne, as well as a salad and dessert bars – and it’s eat-all-you-want.

These cost £25.95 per day for adults (age 15 up), £15.50 for 6-14 year olds and £7.50 for 2-5 year olds, under 2’s go free.

You can also upgrade to slightly fancier options like Off-Peak Premium Dining, a time-restricted package in The Deck, The Yacht Club and Coast restaurants.

These cost £33.95 per day for adults (age 15 up), £19.50 for 6-14 year olds and £9.50 for 2-5 year olds, under 2’s go free.

All offer buffet-style dining, but with additional grill, pasta and wok stations.

Or there’s the premium DineAround package that lets you pick whichever resort restaurant you’d like to dine in, instead of being given a designated place to eat.

This includes family favourite, The Firehouse Grill – which serves burgers, nachos and chicken platters.

The DineAround package costs £36.95 per day for adults (age 15 up), £22 for 6-14 year olds and £10.50 for 2-5 year olds, under 2’s go free.

As part of the Showtime Bundle, all-inclusive drinks can also be included on all-dining packages, with alcohol served from 11am (only sold on certain holiday dates). 

Enjoy Madri lager, Bacardi Rum and Gordon’s Gin at Bognor’s all-inclusive bars like the Beachcomber Inn and Hotshots, as well in restaurants and show venues like Centre Stage and Studio 36.

The food and drink bundles on Showtime Breaks start from £28 per person, per night for a family of four.

This includes mid-week festive breaks. Butlins.com

Parkdean Pendine Sands, Carmarthen, £26pp a night

One of the best things about an all-inclusive holiday is not having to cook, and Parkdean Resorts have just launched an add-on dining package in several of their parks.

At various locations, including Pendine Sands in South Wales, you can now go all-inclusive with your stay.

Packages start from from £80 per adult and £30 per child (under 12) per break (Monday to Friday only).

The deal includes breakfast, lunch and dinner in the on-site restaurant, a dedicated kids’ menu, and unlimited hot and cold drinks all day (although, sorry folks, booze is extra).

Unlike Butlin’s, the all-inclusive deal at Parkdean includes three meals a day and is usually a sit-down meal rather than a buffet.

You can expect dishes like Churrasco steak and fries, katsu curry, pizzas, salad bowls, as well as milkshakes, soft drinks and Costa coffees.

The downside is it’s only available Monday to Friday and the very few dishes – chicken and rib combo, for example – that are priced over £19.99 will add a £5 surcharge.

While booze is extra, you can get a pint of Carling for £5.95 or Madri for £6.55, while a glass of Pinot Grigio is £4.30.

However, as all holiday-parkers know, you can still bring your own drinks or buy some in the resort supermarket to drink on the deck of your caravan once the kids go to bed.

Warner Hotels, Norton Grange Coastal Village, Isle of Wight, £114.50pp a night (adults only)

With hotels, holiday villages and resorts dotted across the UK, Warner Hotels specialises in adults-only holidays.

Several properties in Hampshire and on the Isle of Wight now offer all-inclusive deals that include alcohol, which is brilliant for couples and friends wanting a stress-free stay.

With Christmas coming up, you can also get the deal on Warner Hotels’ themed breaks, such as the Turkey and Tinsel weekend.

These can sometimes be cheaper than standard breaks like Weekend Live with Motown and Soul, where you pay more for specialist entertainment.

However, all breaks include some kind of evening entertainment, such as live tribute acts to Tina Turner, Celine Dion and George Michael.

All three-and-four night breaks include half-board accommodation, all entertainment, and a variety of alcoholic drinks from 6pm until midnight.

At Norton Grange, meals are served in the Market Kitchen restaurant, where you have buffet breakfasts with hot food bars and omelette stations.

For dinner, guests can enjoy three-courses with chef specials like rump steak and king prawns, as well as salad bars, carvery stations, wok show kitchens.

If you get peckish in the afternoon, you can also add a classic afternoon tea for £22.50 per person, served in the lounge.

Be aware that drinks are only included from 6pm to midnight, but include brands Carling lager, Doom Bar Cask Ale, Bell’s and Gordons.

But the rule is single measures only and only two drinks per guest, per round.

Get the deal: Warner Hotels, Lakeside Coastal Village, Hampshire, £259 per person for a two-night break. warnerhotels.co.uk

Potter’s Resorts, Hopton-on-Sea, Norfolk, £209pp

Often voted the best holiday park in the UK, Potter’s offers a slightly elevated experience, which is refelected in the price.

Family-run Potter’s was the first UK’s all-inclusive holiday and is hugely popular with Brits.

Potters Resorts have two locations – Five Lakes in Essex and Hopton-on-Sea in Norfolk, famous as the home of World Indoor Bowls Championships.

Both resorts offer three or four night breaks, including four meals a day, all soft and alcoholic drinks and a daily activity programme.

Five Lakes has a golf course – and both locations have a West End-style show each night.

While most breaks in both parks are adults only, there are some family-friendly dates offered at Hopton-on-Sea. 

With four meals on offer every day, there’s little chance of going hungry.

At Hopton-on-Sea, all meals are served in the elegant The Garden restaurant, with its domed ceiling, or the Gallery, which is a little more intimate.

In both resorts you can expect a full cooked breakfast buffet, a three-course lunch, with dishes like scampi and fries, chicken tikka masala, and salads and cold meats.

For dinner, you can order dishes such as deep fried filo prawns and steamed fillet of cod, as well as a nightly carvery.

Then, if you’re still hungry after all that, the chefs offer a late-night dish every night from sausage rolls to bowls of chilli.

All-inclusive drinks are available from 3pm on arrival day to 10.30am on departure day and you can expect brand-name spirits like Jameson’s whisky and Bacardi Rum, as well as draught and bottled beers, wines and plenty of no-alcohol options too.

Plus, when it’s too early for a tipple, try one of the barista-style coffees with your favourite syrup.

Get the deal: £629 per adult, £479 for 10-17 year olds, £379 for 3-9 year olds and £30 for under 3’s for a three-night break this October half term. pottersresorts.com

Z Hotel Gloucester Place, London, £55pp

Fancy an all-inclusive city break? Look no further.

Spread across a row of restored Georgian townhouses in the heart of Marylebone, Z Hotel Gloucester Place is within easy reach of Regent’s Park, Madame Tussauds and the Wallace Collection, while Oxford Street is a short bus ride away.

Standard rooms are smart and comfortable, however, it’s well worth upgrading your stay to the Z Club experience.

Few people know this, but if you book a Z Club Junior Suite, you’ll get complimentary breakfast, an all-day snack menu, afternoon cakes, a cheese buffet each evening, plus unlimited wine, fizz, cold beers and soft drinks.

Snacks like ham and cheese toasties, chicken and avocado sandwiches, a cheese board are available from the moment you check in at 3pm until late into the night.

Packets of crisps and nuts are also complimentary. There’s also a nice terrace garden to enjoy a sundowner or two, including a good selection of wines like Malbec, a pale pink rosé and two different white wines.

Cans of pop and cold bottled beers and ciders, including Punk IPA and Peroni are also on offer.

Get the deal: Rooms are priced from £110 per room, per night thezhotels.com

Ennerdale Country House Hotel, Cleator, £79pp a night (adults only)

After a hike around the hills and fells of the Lake District, this classic country house hotel near Ennerdale Water is a real treat.

Great Little Breaks offer two-night stays throughout the year at Ennerdale Country House Hotel, a Grade II listed house with five acres of landscaped gardens and Italian fountains.

It includes bed and breakfast, lunch and dinner on both days, unlimited tea and coffee, plus free-flowing house wine, draught beer and soft drinks between 6pm and 10pm each night.

Meals are served in the Fountain Room restaurant, which overlooks the hotel’s beautiful gardens.

Breakfast includes a full English and a simple buffet with pastries and cereals, lunch is soup and a sandwich, while a two-course dinner from the ever-changing table d’hote menu often includes dishes like fish and chips, and herb chicken.

However, if you fancy something like steak off the a la carte menu, you’ll be charged a supplement.

Get the deal: From £159 per person for a two-night stay based on two adults sharing. (Over 25s-only). greatlittlebreaks.com

Lavender Hotels Collection, £32.25pp

The Lavender Hotels Collection is a trio of properties across Lancashire, each offering value all-inclusive packages.

Higher Trapp is a country house with panoramic views across the Pendle Valley, the Old Mill has a similar vibe but with a leisure club and a pool, while Everglades in Widnes is a little more contemporary.

An overnight stay includes a £25pp dinner allowance, drinks including unlimited house wine, draught beers and branded spirits from 6pm until 11pm, plus a full English breakfast in the morning.

If you are visiting with kids, the £25 dinner voucher isn’t extended to them, but kids meals start from £8.

All inclusive drinks include SRS lager, Magner’s cider, house red and white wines, and some branded spirits like Gordon’s Gin and Bells whiskey.

Drinks are only served in the Resident’s Bar between 6pm and 11pm –one glass per person, single measures only.

Guests can book the AI Ultra package for another £12.50 and get upgraded draught beers like Stella Artois and Guinness, flavoured Whitley Neill gins and Fever Tree mixers, as well as more premium wines like Baco de Seta Prosecco and Berri Estates Merlot.

At Higher Trapp, dinner is served in Fitzy’s Restaurant, a cosy space with beautiful views over the Ribble Valley. The £25 meal allowance will get you a 8oz steak and chips, but note that sauces like béarnaise, or brandy and pepper will cost you an extra £4.

Other meals come in around £16 to £19 mark, which allows a little wiggle room for extras. At the Old Mill, you’ll dine in the Sir Robert Peel restaurant on the first floor, which has lovely high-beamed ceilings.

The meal voucher here includes a starter and a main, but some dishes like curried mussels and lamb shank do attract an additional charge.

Get the deal: From £129 per room, per night (currently offering 25% off all autumn breaks) lavenderhotels.co.uk

TWO picturesque UK train routes will close for a number of weeks as part of a £22million upgrade.

The first route to close will be the West Highland railway line, which is well-known for being used in the Harry Potter films, from November 9 to 17.

The picturesque train journey which links Glasgow to Oban and Mallaig and crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct, will undergo a £13million upgrade.

Work will be carried out between Helensburgh, Fort William and Mallaig and includes repairing parts of the track.

There will be replacement buses during the closure period.

Gerry McQuade, capital delivery director at Network Rail Scotland, said: “The West Highland Line is one that people really depend on, whether they’re travelling to work, visiting family or exploring some of Scotland’s most spectacular scenery.

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“This work is about making sure the route continues to provide a dependable service for the communities and visitors who use it every day.”

And it isn’t the only route in Scotland that will close for an upgrade.

The scenic Kyle Line between Dingwall and Kyle of Lochalsh will close for three weeks starting at the end of November.

No trains will run between Dingwall and Kyle of Lochalsh from November 28 to December 18.

Work will be carried out on the Carron Viaduct, as well as Inverness Station.

The £9million project is expected to take a few weeks with four miles of track being renewed.

McQuade said: “The Kyle line is one of Scotland’s most scenic and important routes, connecting communities across the Highlands.

“This £9m investment will allow us to carry out a significant amount of work in a short period of time, helping us keep the railway safe, reliable and resilient for the future.”

A family theme park near a seaside town with more than 30 attractions and tickets starting from £16, has been named the UK’s best for this year, but not everyone has heard of it

With the warm summer days a distant memory, thoughts are turning to how we can spend our time when the weather isn’t dependent. Theme parks are a great option, with any worries about the weather quickly vanishing as you whizz around an exhilarating ride or venture around the colourful site packed with attractions.

The UK is brimming with entertaining and family-friendly theme parks, whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or want a day out that’s suitable for all ages. While we’ve all heard of Alton Towers, Thorpe Park and Legoland, they’ve been pipped to the post by a lesser-known attraction for the title of the UK’s best theme park.

Pleasurewood Hills near Lowestoft in Suffolk was crowned ‘Theme Park of the Year’ for under 1 million visitors, in this year’s UK Theme Park Awards, presented by AttractionTickets.com. Located near the Suffolk coast between Corton and Gunton, the biggest theme park in East Anglia has 30 fun-packed rides and attractions across its 59-acre site, from family favourites to thrill-seeking ventures.

Some highlights include the park’s wild mouse roller coaster, Marble Madness, the Jolly Roger, a stomach-churning drop tower, and the water flume ride, Water Fun Factory. But that’s just the start of their offerings, with plenty more rides that are suitable for all ages.

There’s Woody’s Wheel to savour the coastal vistas, the Flying Elephants, the pirate ship, Shiver me Timbers, the small coast, the Egg-Spress and Wavebreaker, and an exciting waterslide down a winding course. In addition, visitors can watch a sealion or colourful bird show, before visiting the indoor soft play area, Woody’s Cub House, take a drive in a safari car, and ride the carousel or Woodland Express.

Elsewhere, Pleasurewood Hills’ flagship roller coaster is the towering Wipeout, which stands more than 130ft high and whizzes guests around its twisting, turning, looping, and rolling track, before reversing on itself for the “ultimate backwards thrill”. However, it’s currently closed after it broke down over the summer, leaving riders stuck on board for up to three hours, with it expected to reopen by the end of October.

Following this, one of the theme park owners, Freddy Stokes, said their ‘Theme Park of the Year’ award had not been something “we were expecting to win”. The UK Theme Park Awards were based on public votes held prior to the issues with the Wipeout ride.

Pleasurewood Hills is open from 10am until 4pm on Saturday and Sunday during off-peak seasons, and additionally opens Monday to Friday during the October half-term, with opening times varying. However, you don’t have long to visit as the theme park will close for the season on Sunday, 1 November, with an opening date for 2027 yet to be confirmed.

Online tickets for the Suffolk theme park start from £16 per person, while they can also be purchased on the door from £29 per person. For more information, visit the Pleasurewood Hills website.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

TUCKED away in the English countryside is a quiet village that has attracted some big names.

It has pretty cobblestone cottages, traditional pubs all with the backdrop of rolling green hills and no, it’s not in the Cotswolds – but it looks like it could be.

East Dean, a small village in East Sussex, has become the country’s ‘quietest celebrity hotspot’, according to The Telegraph.

Artist Grayson Perry, interior designer and hotelier Olga Polizzi, and Line of Duty actress Gina McKee are all said to call the area home.

It was also once home to Edith Nesbit, the author of The Railway Children.

Most famously, it is the location where Sherlock Holmes retired.

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The fictional detective said in the last novel, called His Last Bow, that he retired to “a small farm upon the Downs, five miles from Eastbourne”.

Author of the series Sir Conan Doyle lived nearby too.

There’s even a blue plaque outside the house on the green that reads “Sherlock Holmes, consulting detective and bee keeper, retired here 1903-1917.”

200 years ago, the village wasn’t exactly a celebrity hotspot – instead it was used by smugglers.

What is now the village pub apparently served as a secret meeting place and retreat for contraband runners.

It’s called The Tiger Inn and sits at the centre of the village on the green and has been described as a ‘quintessentially English pub’ by visitors.

Previously, it’s won Rural Pub of the Year for the South East and has had multiple recognitions from the South East Sussex CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) – including winning Country Pub of the Year.

It serves up very British dishes too from Ploughmans, to fish and chips and sausage and mash.

One visitor wrote on Tripadvisor that it’s “an incredibly beautiful place, one of the best pubs in the South East.”

Another described it as an “amazing village pub on the green.”

It’s not just food – visitors can book a stay at the inn from £90 – or £45pppn.

There are other options when it comes to staying in the village too, including camping at Newhouse Farm Wild Camping which has 72 pitches.

You can pitch on the grass from £30 per night for two adults.

There are also four pods including The Sett, which can sleep up to four people from £100 per night – or £25pppn.

The village is actually quite close to the seaside too – in the car it’s a four-minute drive to beauty spot Birling Gap where you can look out over the Seven Sisters cliffs.

If you fancy taking a walk, you can start at the Tiger Inn and venture towards the sea front which will take around an hour and a half.

For more of a beach, there’s nearby Cuckmere Haven, which is a 13-minute drive away.

The beach was voted one of the best for spring earlier this year thanks to its mild temperatures and incredible views.

TRAVELLERS will soon be able to have a freshly made cocktail on Eurostar trains in a two-floor bar.

Eurostar boss Gwendoline Cazenave has revealed that the new Eurostar Celestia will have a double-decker bar on board.

Speaking to The Times, she revealed that the cocktail bar in Eurostar’s Premier lounge at St Pancras, London, will be “the design of the bar on the new Eurostar Celestia”.

Celestia is the fleet of 50 double-decker trains ordered last year for €2 billion (£1.7 billion).

Inside the lounge, mixologists make more than 300 cocktails a day and visitors can expect to find a variety of seating options from large tables to cosy chairs as well as a large selection of complimentary magazines.

Eurostar Premier travellers, Carte Blanche and Étoile members can access the lounge up to two hours before their train’s departure.

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Deliveries of Celestia will begin in 2031 and each train will be able to carry 20 per cent more passengers.

As a result, for the first time there will be more than 1,000 passengers onboard.

The trains will transport passengers from London to Frankfurt, Germany, four times a day and Geneva, Switzerland, three times a day.

Cazenave said: “Because it’s going to be a double-decker, it’s going to be a double-decker bar.

“It’s going to be as exciting as a speakeasy bar. That’s what we’re building, and I hope it’s going to be as nice as this place.”

Eurostar is also launching services to Antwerp from London four times a day from December 14.

The announcement comes as Virgin Trains prepares to launch services from London to Europe by 2030.

Italian firm Trenitalia has also promised high-speed cross-channel services by 2029.

FOR the first time in 12 years, Dubai Airport could be knocked off its top spot for the world’s busiest airport.

It’s set to be overtaken by a hub in South Korea which has indoor waterfalls and peaceful gardens – while London Heathrow stays at number two.

Incheon International Airport could become the world’s busiest airport for international passengers, according to preliminary data from the Airports Council International.

The data reveals that Incheon served 38.4million international passengers during the first six months of 2026 which could see it given the title.

Prior to this, Dubai International held the crown of the world’s busiest airport for international passengers for over a decade.

Last year it saw 96.2million international passengers in one year.

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But due to the Iran War, footfall has decreased, and it’s predicted to fall outside of the top five.

However, Dubai International is still predicted to have seen 70million passengers by the end of the year.

According to the initial reports, London Heathrow is set to retain second place, recording 37.79 million passengers in the first half of the year.

It came in second place last year with 79.8million international passengers in 2025.

Expected to be in third place is Singapore’s Changi Airport, which has seen 34.53million international passengers pass through in the first half of this year.

Incheon International Airport first opened in 2001 as a hub for northwestern South Korea – about 25 miles away from Seoul and has seen visitor numbers skyrocket.

It has had an increase of 18 per cent this year with some traffic from flights taking different paths due to airspace closures.

South Korea has seen a surge in popularity in recent years thanks to K-pop as well as its fashion and food.

For anyone travelling across, to Incheon International Airport, they’ll find it’s modern and bright with high glass ceilings, plenty of natural light and indoor gardens.

The botanical zones have features like waterfalls as well as vertical gardens with trees and orchids to give it a calming feel.

Terminal 2 is designed to appear like an art museum with rotating installations, sculptures, and even interactive exhibits.

The airport also has a spa and sauna, capsule hotels, children’s play areas – outside is a 36,000-square-meter flower field and plane-spotting park.

One passenger was so impressed by the airport that he called it the “future of travel”.

Another called it “Korea’s most beautiful terminal”.

Incheon International Airport also ranked seventh in Travel + Leisure’s ‘World’s Best Awards’.

These airports were declared the best by readers who voted in their thousands for their favourites in multiple categories for the publication.

Official statistics will be released by the ACI in its World Airport Traffic Report next month.

From the long sandy beaches of the Baltic coast, to the clubs and galleries of Berlin, via the castles of Bavaria and the hiking trails of the Black Forest, Germany has so much to offer. We’d love to hear about your favourite travel experiences and places.

The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hall of Lonely Planet wins a £200 voucher to stay at a Coolstays property – the company has more than 3,000 worldwide. The best tips will appear in the Guardian Travel section and website.

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The city is also considered one of the most beautiful places in the world

A recent study by Go2Africa named the most overcrowded destinations in the world by analysing the number of visitors and comparing them with population figures. The experts said: “This gives us a better idea of where tourism might be overcrowding local areas.”

The data revealed that Vatican City is the most overcrowded place in Europe, with “an incredible 7,709 tourists to every resident”. The experts explained that “while this ratio is extreme, it comes with context: Vatican City, based within Rome, is just 0.44 square kilometres in size and is a place of pilgrimage and cultural significance for many people around the world”.

They added that its tiny population of 882 “consists mainly of clergy, diplomats, and officials, making it unlike any typical country”.

However, tourists describe the city as “too crowded to enjoy”. On TripAdvisor, one person said: “I have never seen crowds as big. We saw approximately 1,000 people lined up outside waiting to buy tickets.

“We had booked ahead, so we thought we had skipped the queue. We had, but when you get into the Museum, you join a line of more than 1,000 people filtering through, crammed together like sheep. It’s like this for the entire visit. It’s so busy that you don’t even get a chance to stop at any of the exhibits.”

Other people said it was “horrifically crowded” when they visited. “We went to the Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel and could not believe how unbelievably crowded it was.

“There was no way to see, let alone enjoy the art. For about three hours, everyone inched forward, carried by the mass crowd.”

Why are some destinations so overcrowded?

According to experts at Tourism Analytics, one of the main factors is that “the cost of international travel has dropped in recent years, making quick trips more feasible and frequent”.

Budget airlines have kept airfare “artificially cheap,” which encourages “more weekend city-breaks and long-haul vacations”.

At the same time, “accommodations via home-sharing apps are readily available, and package tours remain inexpensive”. This affordability, combined with flexible booking platforms, has lowered barriers to travel, leading to mass tourism.

At age 14, Glen Walsh started surfing because of a crush. He was a boogie boarder until the object of his adoration told him, “What are you riding that for? You should be surfing. Get a surfboard.” So, he did. “I was terrible at it, but I kept going. I was super persistent.”

That resilience proved useful. As a gay teenager in Santa Monica, Walsh was often called slurs on the Venice Pier. “You think you’re like a unicorn — a weirdo,” he says. He felt at odds with the local surf community. To Walsh, surfing was “super straight, very hypermasculine, very intimidating.” Yet his love of the ocean — and sure, crush-worthy surfers — kept him returning to the water. “I wanted to be around them, and surf with them,” he says.

When Instagram launched in 2010, Walsh began posting one of his early loves — only this time, it was morning surf conditions. Every morning, before surfers paddled out, the longtime Venice resident described swells, winds and surf conditions to his followers, becoming for some the town’s trusted surf chronicler.

A “Surf Swim” sign greets beachgoers at Venice Beach — a stretch of coast where daily surf reports and grassroots organizing have helped break down traditional surf stereotypes.

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

His videos combined informative dispatches with the laid-back vibe of surfer ASMR. “Light offshore wind. Clean, glassy barrels,” he declares softly to the camera as gray waves break behind him. “Lumpy close-out with hollow barrels with low tide, fam.”

At first, the account functioned like a group chat for local surfers. “Friends were asking me how the waves were, and I was texting them. I figured I’d jump on Instagram and start doing it for them,” says Walsh, who has been a Venice resident for 15 years.

What began as a practical update for a handful of friends eventually attracted followers in London, Berlin and Tokyo — people who checked in daily to see whether the surf was firing in Venice Beach. The account has amassed over 10,000 followers, inspiring imitator accounts. “Now it’s just for everybody,” says Walsh. “I built a community around the surf reports. It really blew me away. I didn’t realize that people were so interested.”

His surf reports have made him an unofficial mayor of Venice surf culture, getting recognized at the beach town’s local hangouts like Hinano Cafe and the Cow’s End. “People stop me and tell me they love my surf reports. They don’t even surf, but they see it every day,” says Walsh. “I always tell people I’m very popular between Washington Boulevard, Lincoln Boulevard and Rose Avenue.” His nickname around town is Glenice Venice.

However, the real triumph wasn’t becoming recognizable around Venice — it was finding other queer surfers, something that felt elusive in Walsh’s youth in Southern California. “I had met a lot of other surfers from all over the world and built a queer community of surfers here in L.A.,” says Walsh. “It was pretty awesome.”

Walsh saw an opportunity to use his surf report to not only report on the condition of the ocean — which is especially unpredictable during our current El Niño cycles — but to also create a burgeoning queer space in the Venice surf scene. “I could set up a community-based surf report for everybody, and the fact that I happen to be queer made it a little more unique,” he says. He began to connect with gay surfers, organizing trips with them and building lasting friendships. “It was just a lot of fun, building a little team.”

Later, Walsh became a co-producer and music supervisor of a movie about homophobia in surfing titled “Out in the Line-Up” that premiered at film festivals across the world in cities such as New York, San Francisco and Sydney, Australia. “The movie kind of spoke for itself. It was a worldwide issue — homophobia in surfing.” Since then, Walsh has served on panels about queer people in the surf world. Last June, the film had a 10th anniversary screening in Venice, hosted by the Venice Surfing Assn. “At some point, I brought some diversity to this culture. I put my name on it,” he says.

In recent years, others have joined Walsh’s efforts to create a burgeoning queer surf scene at Venice Beach. In 2020, Shelly Guidera relocated to Venice and noticed that there wasn’t a strong queer presence in surfing. “My friend and I were maybe the only queer people some of these surfers had ever seen,” she says. Shortly after, Guidera started Dream Team Surf, a collective for queer surfers to meet up and build camaraderie.

Its mission is simple. “It’s all of us looking out for each other,” Guidera says. “ Having a team of people makes the experience that much more enriching and safe.”

Surfers ride the waves near the Venice Pier, where Glen Walsh does his daily surf reports.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

Early on, Guidera was inspired by Walsh’s uplifting presence in the Venice surf scene. “This person is respected in the community for what he brings, which is knowledge and insight and fun and flair,” says Guidera. In turn, Walsh has championed Dream Team Surf.

In January 2025, Dream Team Surf hosted a Pride beach party with a banner that read: “Trans bodies belong on the beach.” In some San Diego area beaches, Guidera says, queer representation can still feel like an anomaly. “It’s so funny because it’s like these people have maybe never seen a woman in a bathing suit with hairy legs,” she says. “I’m like, ‘Oh my God, it’s not that deep.’”

Guidera is certified in surf therapy, taking courses through Groundswell Community Project, a surf therapy program that uses surf to promote holistic healing. The mental health benefits of surfing are lifelong, Guidera explains. “Growing up as a swimmer, surfing was a form of play and wellness,” she says. “It eased the brakes on competition and the structure within competitive swimming.”

Group photo of Dream Team Surf, which hosted a Pride beach party.

(Sara Werner)

Even if you don’t shred waves, being in the ocean can promote healing. “To give people access to the ocean that is in and of itself a form of wellness,” she says. “There’s a level of surrender and humility that comes with surfing and that comes with being in nature. … You have to be so present in such a way that makes you a stronger person.”

Like Guidera, Walsh also works as a surf instructor with a similar goal to instill confidence in his students. “I was teaching a lot of people to surf, mostly women who didn’t want a straight man to teach them how to surf because it feels vulnerable enough,” says Walsh. “I try to break down the stereotypes and have a little fun with them and let them become a kid again.”

When done correctly, he argues, surfing can invite expansiveness. “I love seeing people out there. Feel the fear and do it anyway,” says Walsh. “And creating a lifestyle around it — going to different beaches — and meeting friends.”

THERE are certain holiday compromises I’m willing to make – a slightly disappointing balcony view, early rises for sun lounger dashes or the hotel buffet serving chips for breakfast.

But booking a holiday and then discovering there’s nowhere to watch the football? An absolute no from me.

At some hotels, watching the match means squinting at a television above reception, with the sound off.

But at others, it’s treated as part of the holiday.

By that I mean dedicated sports bars and even enormous outdoor screens beside the pool which show the matches.

So I’ve picked eight hotels where Premier League fans should be particularly well catered for – with all-inclusive deals starting from £355pp.

But a quick note before we jump in: exactly which matches are screened can depend on local broadcasting rights and the hotel’s entertainment schedule, particularly when several big sporting events clash.

So if there’s one fixture you absolutely cannot miss, it’s always worth checking directly with the hotel before you travel.

1. Philoxenia Hotel, Halkidiki – from £355pp

The Philoxenia Hotel offers a much more peaceful way to keep up with the Premier League.

Football is shown around The Local Bar, the hotel’s main bar and lounge, with indoor tables and comfortable communal seating, along with an adjoining outdoor terrace where you can take your drink before or after the match.

It isn’t a full-on sports pub covered from wall to wall in screen – instead, it gives guests a relaxed place to gather for the bigger fixtures without having to leave the hotel.

The hotel itself is surrounded by pine and olive trees, with a large outdoor swimming pool and a beach around five minutes’ walk away.

There’s a buffet restaurant, children’s facilities and a pool bar, too.

This is the one for someone who wants a quiet, traditional Greek beach holiday but would still like to know there’s somewhere nearby when the Premier League weekend begins.

A five-night all-inclusive stay in October comes in at just £355pp.

Not only is this the cheapest hotel in my selection, but other board options are also available if you want to bring the price down further.

2. Barcelo Royal Beach, Sunny Beach – from £405pp

For a more serious football setup, Barcelo Royal Beach is difficult to beat.

Premier League matches are among the sports shown at the Red Lion Pub, a British-style bar within the hotel gardens.

It sits directly in front of the children’s pool and one of the adult pools, so you barely need to leave your sunbed to watch the match.

There are numerous tellies and four big screens, with the ability to show two different sporting events simultaneously – useful if a Premier League fixture clashes with another match or even another sport altogether, as it also shows rugby and F1.

The pub has around 200 seats inside (and another 100 in the garden), English commentary is available and its weekly sports schedule is displayed at the entrances.

There’s also a pool table, darts, live music and karaoke, plus familiar British beers on draught.

The wider hotel has a huge lagoon-style pool, children’s facilities and a position close to the beach and the centre of Sunny Beach – ideal if you want a proper package holiday with a ready-made football pub included.

You can get a full seven-night all-inclusive holiday here for £405pp. Bargain!

3. Muthu Clube Praia da Oura, Albufeira – from £430pp

Muthu Clube Praia da Oura is a brilliant compromise if not everyone travelling cares about the Premier League.

The resort has a lounge where live football is shown, with indoor seating, tables and bar service.

This means having somewhere comfortable to sit down and follow the match properly without having to venture onto Albufeira’s Strip and fight for a view in a busy pub.

The communal setup also means the biggest Premier League fixtures can attract a bit of an atmosphere among British guests, rather than leaving you alone with your phone beside the pool.

Meanwhile, anyone who couldn’t care less about the score can remain around the swimming pools, walk down to Praia da Oura beach or take advantage of the hotel’s spacious grounds.

The apartments provide more room than a standard hotel bedroom, while the bars and nightlife of Albufeira are within walking distance if the result leaves you in the mood to celebrate… or in urgent need of somewhere to forget it happened.

And this October, £430pp gets you five nights with all your meals and selected drinks included.

If you’d rather explore Albufeira’s restaurants and bars, you can always pick a cheaper board, although at under £500 for five nights all-inclusive, it’s pretty hard to beat.

4. Magic Aqua Rock Gardens, Benidorm – from £440pp

At Magic Aqua Rock Gardens, watching the Premier League can become part of a pool day.

The hotel has an enormous outdoor LED screen beside the swimming pool, which is used for sporting events – as well as films, concerts and music videos.

That means you could potentially follow one of the weekend’s big matches from the poolside on your sunbed, rather than sacrificing two hours of Spanish sunshine in a dark television room.

There’s a swim-up bar in the pool and a daytime snack bar nearby, making it relatively easy to collect another drink or something to eat without missing a goal.

The hotel even has an indoor television room, offering another option for matches that don’t make the outdoor entertainment schedule.

Beyond the football, it’s an African-themed family hotel with waterslides, a splash area, swimming pools, entertainment and a rooftop adults-only chill-out space.

It’s the strongest family option on the list: the children get a waterpark holiday, you get all-inclusive food and drink, and there’s a giant screen waiting when the Premier League kicks off.

And at £440pp for a full week all-inclusive this October, it’s also one of the best-value packages I found.

5. AX ODYCY, Malta – from £445pp

AX ODYCY gives you a modern Malta hotel and a football-friendly gastropub in the same building.

Premier League fans can head to Cheeky Monkey Gastropub, the lively bar and restaurant attached to the hotel which has a massive television with indoor tables, bar seating and a spacious outdoor terrace overlooking the Qawra seafront.

And because it’s a full gastropub rather than a television in the hotel lobby, you can order burgers, wings, sharing platters and drinks while keeping an eye on the match.

The venue attracts local customers as well as hotel guests, helping the bigger fixtures generate some genuine atmosphere.

There’s plenty of seating for groups, while the terrace gives anyone less interested in the football somewhere to sit without abandoning the rest of the party.

The hotel has several pools, loads of restaurants, children’s facilities and rooftop areas, all overlooking the Mediterranean.

It’s a smart option for families or couples who want more than a sports bar, but would certainly prefer to have one just downstairs when the Premier League is on.

A five-night all-inclusive stay costs from £445pp, with even cheaper board options available if you’d prefer to spend more of your holiday eating and drinking around Malta.

6. Radisson Resort Ras Al Khaimah Marjan Island – from £655pp

If you want reliable sunshine long after the European summer has finished, why not try Ras Al Khaimah?

The Radisson Resort Ras Al Khaimah Marjan Island offers a winter-sun alternative to Dubai’s more expensive hotels.

The place to look for the Premier League is RBG Bar, the resort’s dedicated beach-facing sports bar.

It has a relaxed indoor seating area, an outdoor terrace, retro-inspired pub decor and games to keep you entertained before kick-off, plus draught and bottled beers, cocktails and food are all available from the bar.

It opens from late afternoon until 1am, which works well for many Premier League kick-offs once the time difference is taken into account.

The hotel itself sits directly on the beach at Marjan Island and has outdoor pools, children’s facilities and several places to eat and drink.

Crucially, it delivers the UAE beach-holiday experience without the enormous price attached to some of Dubai’s best-known sports hotels.

I found a five-night all-inclusive deal for just £655pp this October, an insanely affordable deal for a mid-haul holiday.

7. Iberostar Waves Bouganville Playa, Tenerife – from £670pp

Iberostar Waves Bouganville Playa is suited to supporters who want to watch the Premier League without their entire hotel feeling like a sports pub.

Football can be shown around the hotel’s communal bar and lounge area, where guests have proper tables, comfortable seats and bar service close at hand.

The hotels in Costa Adeje, right beside the seafront and close to Puerto Colon.

This is where you will find sports bars galore – try The Corner Sport Bar or Palms Sport Bar.

And the hotel itself has a large swimming pool, kids activities, entertainment and excellent access to the waterfront.

You can sit down with a drink, watch the match with other guests and then return to the pool or promenade when it finishes.

And the five-night all-inclusive package in November that I found is available from a very reasonable £670pp.

If you plan to spend more of your time exploring Costa Adeje, other board options are available for less.

8. Hard Rock Hotel Tenerife – from £850pp

Hard Rock Hotel Tenerife is definitely the premium option of this list, but it also has one of the best sports bars by far.

The action takes place in 3rd Half, a purpose-built sports bar on the ground floor of the hotel’s Nirvana Tower.

It has giant screens as well as smaller televisions positioned throughout the venue (helping guests get a good view from different seats) as well as an indoor bar and stage, a pool table and a semi-open terrace overlooking the gardens.

Football shirts, balls, trophies and other memorabilia line the walls, making it feel like an upmarket sports bar rather than a standard hotel lounge that happens to own a television.

Premier League football sits alongside LaLiga and other major sporting events on its screens. 

You can watch with an imported beer or cocktail and order burgers, pizzas, nachos, hot dogs or chicken wings from the match-friendly menu.

There are sometimes bands and jam sessions on the indoor stage later in the evening, so you can stay after the match rather than heading straight back to your room.

It’s also worth bearing in mind that this is a full-on five-star resort with loads of pools, a beach club, live music and more places to eat and drink than you’re likely to visit during a short break.

It’s expensive compared with the rest of the list, but very good for groups or couples where one person wants a luxury Tenerife holiday and the other has mentally organised the entire trip around the Premier League fixture list.

The four-night all-inclusive break I found in October comes in at £850pp – not cheap, no but this is the hotel to choose if you want to go all-out.

A NEW train ticket rule will be rolled out this weekend, allowing passengers to switch to rival operators for free.

The changes look to make disrupted journeys smoother for travellers and mean they won’t be forced to purchase last-minute pricey tickets.

Those left stranded after a train cancellation will be able to travel on services run by different operators at no additional charge, the government has announced.

The changes are set to be introduced on Sunday, September 20, and promise a smoother travel experience for those facing disrupted journeys.

Many travellers will be aware that cross-operator ticket acceptance is already available across all publicly owned operators.

However, as of Sunday, CrossCountry, Great Western Railway, Avanti West Coast and Chiltern Railways will all become part of the scheme too.

ON TRACK

Underrated English seaside town is getting a new fast train from London

FULL STEAM

First look at new Great British Railways trains being rolled out across the UK

Passengers travelling on any of the services included in the scheme can hop onto the next train if their original route is cancelled, even if it is a different service run by a different operator, without needing to buy a new ticket.

It must be departing two hours before or after your original cancelled service, and the new journey must be a “direct or reasonable alternative route”.

All that is required to complete a journey is showing customer support staff your original ticket to serve as proof of purchase.

Rail Minister, Lord Hendy, said: “This is a simple, common-sense change that puts passengers first.

“No one should be left stranded because of a fragmented railway when their journey is disrupted.

“We’re fixing the railway from the ground up, making it simpler, fairer and easier to use, as we move towards Great British Railways and put public service back at the heart of our railways.”

It is just one of the moves that comes as part of the government’s overhaul of the rail system.

Ahead of the establishment of Great British Railways, travellers can also expect to see pay-as-you-go services rolled out across Greater Manchester, the Midlands and the south-east thanks to a £156million investment by the Government into new ticketing scheme.

A new GBR website and app is also being designed to act as a “one-stop shop” for those heading out on a rail journey.

In one corner is bnb-side, a six-room bed and breakfast on the Isle of Portland – a tiny wedge of limestone tied by a narrow ribbon of shingle to the Dorset coast – that was created to help secure the future of the rock’s much-loved arts festival, b-side.

On the other is Airbnb, the San Francisco-based booking colossus. The battle between them is over the three little letters they share.

b-side says the “bnb” in bnb-side means what it has always meant: bed and breakfast. But lawyers for the Silicon Valley titan say the name of the guesthouse, perched on an outcrop just 4 miles long by 1.5 miles wide, threatens the global brand of the $100bn heavyweight.

“We thought the name was both really obvious and really cool,” said Rocca Holly-Nambi, director of b-side. “b-side was founded almost 20 years ago, so when we set up our BnB in 2024 to raise money for the festival, we just popped the ‘bn’ in front because it’s a universally recognised description of what we’re offering.”

Airbnb doesn’t agree. In May, it sent the first of three legal letters to the tiny social enterprise to demand it cease its attempt to register the B&B using the name it had used since it opened its doors.

“They won’t let us compromise by using a different case, an ampersand or an ‘and’,” said Holly-Nambi. “According to Airbnb, we can’t describe our BnB as a BnB at all.”

For bnb-side, losing the argument could mean more than abandoning a clever name. It would mean replacing signage and rewriting websites, social media and all other material referencing and advertising the B&B.

“That’s not just a huge waste of money – of which we don’t have much – and of the equally valuable time of our volunteers, but it would throw b-side’s core income stream into chaos,” said Holly-Nambi. “We’d have to painstakingly build our reputation and brand back up from scratch all over again.”

Raina Summerson, chair of b-side, is fuming and incredulous. “We opened bnb-side because we were completely dependent on public funding and wanted to be more financially secure,” she said. “bnb-side now generates almost half the festival’s annual £250,000 turnover. If it loses its name, we risk having to establish it all over again.”

Airbnb has opposed the name on three separate legal grounds: that consumers will confuse the two brands, that bnb-side could benefit from or damage Airbnb’s reputation, and that bnb-side will financially profit by misrepresenting itself as an official Airbnb service.

b-side is asking the Intellectual Property Office to reject Airbnb’s opposition in full, with costs awarded in their favour. The case is still under way, with no ruling having yet been made.

Airbnb’s claim has hit a nerve on the proud, windswept outcrop. Cat Wightman, manager of bnb-side, said: “It’s pretty bitter. We’ve watched other small, local hospitality businesses go under, and local people unable to afford homes here, who have been negatively affected by the force with which the Airbnb market has conquered Portland. One person owns eight properties on the island, all of which are rented out on Airbnb.”

b-side obtained pro bono advice and is working with the law firm Stevens Hewlett & Perkins to defend them, but the process is still intimidating. “It’s terrifying but we’re not going to back down,” said Holly-Nambi. “We do things differently here in Portland.”

Craig Beaumont, a trademark attorney and senior associate at Barker Brettell, a law firm that specialises in intellectual property, said that for all Airbnb’s might, this would not be an easy or straightforward win for them.

“This feels like an uphill battle they’re embarking on,” he said. “BnB has long been widely understood as shorthand for a descriptive phrase, and descriptive phrases are available for the public to use.”

bnb-side are not the only company who agree with Beaumont: Companies House records show that in the past decade 14 accommodation companies with “bnb” in their name successfully registered their businesses.

Darren Meale, a partner and trademark litigation specialist at Simmons & Simmons, said it was no surprise the term was used so often. “It’s quite punchy of Airbnb to say they’re so well-known that they can monopolise a term that they only incorporated into their name in the first place because it was a descriptive one that everyone immediately understood, and then say that someone else using the term is going to confuse customers and damage them.”

Lee Curtis, a partner and chartered trademark attorney at IP law firm HGF, agreed that Airbnb “may be testing the limits” of the law. But he pointed to another risk for the lodging colossus.

“There’s a public relations angle to take into account,” he said. “Some companies may welcome getting a reputation for aggressive enforcement but that can backfire when the target is a community organisation, like this one.”

Airbnb has been approached for comment.

The provided text outlines the historical origins and modern observance of Cochabamba Day, a significant regional holiday in Bolivia. It explains that while the settlement was first established as Villa de Oropesa in 1571, the official anniversary honors a second foundation that occurred on September 14, 1574. The city eventually reclaimed its original Incan name, which describes a landscape defined by small lakes, and was formally elevated to city status in the late 18th century. Today, this date remains a point of civic pride, commemorated through public holidays and the naming of the city’s central plaza. Additionally, the article notes that the broader Cochabamba Department was legally organi … 

‘I don’t eat mozzarella outside Puglia,” says our friend Savio. “It’s not the same.” Savio is a very opinionated foodie, so I take his words with a pinch of good Puglian sea salt (see below). He was adamant about the superiority of the stretched-curd cheese from his home turf.

Puglia is also the birthplace of ingredient du jour burrata, which originated in Andria, a few miles from Savio’s home town of Barletta. Andria forms one part of the triangular Barletta-Andria-Trani (BAT) province, often passed over for better-known parts of Puglia, despite the cheese connection and Barletta having miles of palm-backed, sandy beaches.

About a century ago, in the hills outside Andria, farmer Lorenzo Bianchino was snowed in and couldn’t get his milk to market. To save what he could, he revived an old technique for preserving butter (burro, hence burrata), stuffing cream mixed with mozzarella scraps (stracciatella) in a casing of the stretched-curd cheese.

There are now several burrata makers in Andria, the most famous being Caseificio Olanda, which offers demos, tastings and a museum. Late one morning, we watch Riccardo “Dino” Olanda, son of the founders, work his magic. He adds almost-boiling water to the curds, then mixes with hands red from doing this every day. As he stretches and massages the curds, a smooth velvety mass forms. “See how it’s shiny?” he says. “Means it’s ready.” Working quickly, he squeezes out round lumps between thumb and forefinger into the familiar mozzarella balls. This action is mozzare, hence the name.

He also makes little knots and plaits before moving on to burrata. Taking a warm mozzarella ball, he works it into a hollow bag with his fingers then fills it with cream and stracciatella before tying the top with string.

Afterwards, a dairy-heavy meal totally worth the cholesterol and calories: mozzarella and burrata to start, then bread with chunks of caciocavallo (a stretched-curd cheese), and a dessert of heart-shaped fresh ricotta with strawberry jam or cocoa.

And, I have to say, Savio is right. The mozzarella and burrata have a juicy, elastic texture and a gorgeous cheesy, umami flavour; the salt and flavour leached out by the whey the cheeses later sit in. How will I ever settle for Tesco Finest after this?

Over the next few days, eating our way around the province’s restaurants and food producers, I wonder whether it’s because the ingredients are so good that this area has so many food obsessives, or the other way round.

Barletta sees few foreign tourists, but it is full of Italian life. There are lots of independent shops, a Norman castle and cathedral to visit, and every evening people pour into the bars, clubs and gelaterie of the sette strade, seven parallel streets in the old town.

Down the coast, Trani, with its sea-facing romanesque cathedral and pretty harbour, attracts some tourists, but they are not in evidence at 7am when the fishing boats return. The men complain of rough seas and a poor catch, but from the back of the boats they’re soon selling mullet, octopus, skate, fat sea snails, monkfish and palombo (small shark) to restaurateurs and fishmongers. Thirtysomething Nicola says he went out at midday and got back at 3am. When does he sleep? “Never.” A fifth-generation fisher, he began helping on the boats aged six.

We’ll eat fish later, but today is for pizza. Portento in Barletta is run by food nut Luigi Lacerenza. He has us try so many local products as antipasti – caprino goat’s cheese tasting of green mountains, grilled caciocavallo from an old couple who make just six a week and small-batch salami – that we’re almost too full for pizzas. But they are wonderful: one with sausage, olives, oyster mushrooms and yellow tomatoes; another with aubergines and grated cacioricotta.

In Cerignola, west of Barletta, Rosario Didonna used the money he won on a TV standup competition to turn his family’s deli into a cosy, wood- panelled restaurant, U’ Vulèsce (dialect for “peckish”). Rosario knows fishers by name, works with small farmers and wine producers, and invites nonne from all over southern Italy to demonstrate recipes in his kitchens.

We start with tasty goat prosciutto and plum-sized local olives called bella di Cerignola. Then an unforgettable prawn tartare served in sea urchin shells, hairy crab spaghetti (“the juice is better than lobster”), octopus with bean puree, and sea bass with orange mayo. He waves away our thanks: “I’m doing the best job in the world!”

Nicola Barbera at Masseria Barbera, a farm restaurant in the Alta Murgia national park, is equally inspired, but rather by what grows on the estate founded by his great-great-great-great-grandfather Riccardo, who fought with Garibaldi. Exuberantly bouncing us around the farm – it produces 90% of what the 100-cover restaurant needs – he shows us olives and vines, but also the “weeds” growing around them. “They’re eatable,” he says, grabbing handfuls of peppery rocket, and bitter but delicate wild chicory. From the abundant kitchen garden, he makes eight varieties of tomato sauce.

We tuck into a lot of this for lunch: a pie with white onions, anchovy and sultanas; courgettes with mint and garlic; spaghetti with yellow tomatoes. (“I call it bastard sauce,” says Nicola. “Those tomatoes take three times as long to pick.”) Then, something I never thought I’d eat: grilled donkey fillet. I feel bad about the patient, mild-tempered beasts, but this is healthy, low-fat food, never intensively farmed. It’s also the best meat I’ve ever tasted.

Good food is made better by good olive oil, and producers here include Muraglia, known for organic oil in hand-painted, rainbow-stripe ceramic bottles, and Sabino Leone, offering tours of its ancient groves and oil mill for €15, plus tastings.

This area also offers plenty to do between meals. Barletta was the home of Italian painter Giuseppe De Nittis, who hung out with Degas and Manet, and took part in the first impressionist exhibition in Paris, in 1874. Over 200 of his works are now displayed in the 16th-century Palazzo della Marra (€6).

At Europe’s biggest salt pan, Salina Margherita di Savoia, there’s an expanse of peaceful ponds with a snow-white salt mountain to climb. Another day, an exhilarating ebike ride in the Alta Murgia with Filippo Tito of Cycling ’n’ Trek, through dense forest to peer with awe into an old bauxite mine that resembles a mini grand canyon. We get back ravenous, but in this corner of northern Puglia, that’s a blessing.

Where to stay

Until this century, Barletta had little tourist accommodation. Pick of the few B&Bs is Antica Dimora (doubles from €97), a restored 17th-century palazzo run by Lilly and Riccardo Manna. There are three smart bedrooms with lots of plants and breakfast features different local specialities each day.

Lama di Luna (doubles from €230) is an organic farm in deep countryside, with six rooms set around an 18th-century stone courtyard. A well and solar panels make it energy and water self-sufficient; half of its 200 hectares are left wild, the rest are planted with olives, vines, almonds and cherries. There’s a cinema, a library and a large pool shaded by 600-year-old olive trees.

Where (else) to eat

Barletta’s 60-year-old Mosé bakery is revered for its krapfen filled doughnuts and sourdough croissants. There are also chocolates, ice-cream and cakes, all housemade, and great coffee.

Puglia has hundreds of gelaterie but experts rate Scoop in Canosa (which is called Puglia’s “Little Rome” for its catacombs, temple ruins and Roman bridge). Francesco Di Nunno makes ice-cream with local seasonal ingredients: raspberry and strawberry sorbets are available only in early summer; percoca yellow peach until mid-August.

There’s affordable fine dining at chef Luciano Matera’s Il Turracciolo in central Andria. Highlights for me are broad bean and chicory “meatballs”, bright green inside; a “hidden mushroom” under baked eggy topping; and pasta discs with whole and pureed green beans and peas.

At A Sud dell’Anima, chef Nadia Tamburrano uses modern techniques and hyper-local ingredients to make food of astonishing quality for a small hilltop town (Minervino, population under 8,000). Her antipasti explode with flavour thanks to house-cured capers and homemade mustard, syrups and purees. A main of sweetbreads wrapped in intestines feels a bit out-there, but is delicious, the intestines crispy as crackling.

The trip was organised by Unexpected Italy, which offers personalised itineraries for Barletta and the surrounding area