years

There’s a massive hole in the ground at the top of Whinney Hill – a shale quarry that once supplied raw materials for Accrington’s famous Nori brickworks (as used in the Empire State Building and Blackpool Tower). It’s fitting, as there’s a chasm-wide gap in history when it comes to this unprepossessing spot on the edge of the West Pennine Moors.

On the morning of 24 April 1826, about 1,000 weavers met on the hilltop to plan their day and, no doubt, get the lie of the land and the weather before setting off. A banking crisis in December of the previous year – dubbed the Panic of 1825 by historians – had hammered the cotton industry. Lancashire’s weavers, who had already suffered years of declining wages and living standards, faced destitution and even starvation.

Desperate, they decided to carry out large-scale breakages of power looms to send a symbolic message to their employers and the government. On that fateful April day, the first of four days of action, they would split into groups to walk many miles to Clitheroe, Oswaldtwistle and Blackburn – mill towns where they were met by soldiers, cavalry and yeomanry with guns and swords. By the end of their protest marches, at least six people had lost their lives.

The views, once you get past the fencing around the old quarry, now a landfill, are extensive – especially on such a pin-sharp winter’s day as I had when I recced one of the weavers’ walks with local guide and historian Nick Burton, who is leading this year’s remembrance walks for the Weavers Uprising Bicentennial Committee (WUBC) charity. Eight guided walks, taking place across Lancashire between March and August, will follow the routes used by the 1826 protestors as closely as ipossible.

We could make out the moorlands around Darwen to the south, Burnley to the east and Pendle Hill in the north. Behind and below us was Accrington Stanley’s Wham Stadium, which has a terrace named after Whinney Hill.

We opted for the Clitheroe route, as it would take us near to home. Like the weavers, we began on the old turnpike road, now the A680, which is dotted with Victorian and earlier properties. I spotted several Mill Lanes, old access points to workplaces now turned into housing estates. There were also plenty of Moor Lanes. We passed through Clayton-le-Moors – best known for its fell running team, once presided over by the legendary Ron Hill – and Great Harwood, another textile hub, and birthplace of printing and dyeing innovator John Mercer.

Things got greener around the Grade II-listed Martholme (former) railway viaduct, where we looked down on the River Calder. I was on familiar ground, having learned to drystone wall in the shadow of this 10-arched beauty. The Calder takes wild meanders here, as it approaches the River Ribble. We followed what was probably an old limers way (packhorse routes used by traders to carry lime) before climbing to a shoulder of the Nab, a prominent, wooded hill above Whalley, with its stirring Cistercian abbey ruins and Lancashire’s longest viaduct. With views all the way back to Whinney Hill and dramatic wintry shadows, it was time for tea and a butty. We were soon at the summit and with even bigger vistas north. As the sun crept away, it turned chilly. We more or less raced across the last few fields to get to Low Moor, where there was one final disappeared mill and clash between unarmed weavers and soldiers to note – whence to the New Inn in Clitheroe for a warming ale.

A total of 415 power looms were broken on the first day of the uprising. It wasn’t the first time workers had smashed technologies, many of which had been invented and developed in Lancashire. The spinning jenny was invented in Oswaldtwistle; Blackburn and Manchester were testbeds for the power loom. But the workers had been pushed to the limit; after tramping 10 miles or more, sometimes encountering resistance, they had to hike all the way home.

My second walk, a week later – on a colder, even crisper day – started and finished at blue plaque sites. It began in Haslingden, this time heading south. The first plaque, on the former New Inn, recorded that on 25 April 1826, handloom weavers were arrested for destroying 100 power looms in nearby Helmshore. They were charged with riot but released when an angry crowd protested. Some were transported to Australia for life. A bystander called Mary Hindle was sentenced to death, later commuted to transportation.

This route – taken by the weavers on the third day of the uprising – passed some pitstops for coffee and culture, including the Whitaker museum and art gallery, which has a social history collection featuring a painted panel capturing the moment handloom weavers smashed power looms in the Whitehead family’s mill in Rawtenstall. They destroyed 96 looms in just half an hour. A new commemorative WUBC banner, Rise Up!, by textile artist James Fox is on display. On 16 April, a newly commissioned sound and film installation by Blackburn-based artist Jamie Holman, responding to the original painting, will be unveiled.

From the windows of the gallery you can see Hardman’s Mill, with its 49-metre (161 foot) high chimney, which postdates the uprising. Before it was bought by self-made textile magnate Richard Whitaker, the grand mansion containing the museum was the home of George Hardman. It’s said he liked to be able to see the mill from the windows.

The weavers took action at Hoyle and Ashworth’s Mill at New Hall Hey, and Longholme Mill – a site now occupied by an Asda. A lot of east Lancashire’s textile buildings have been razed, but you can see traces of foundations or old walls in some places, as well as repurposed mills used as offices or carpet shops. Wherever you see a big supermarket, it’s worth checking the old Ordnance Survey maps on the excellent National Library of Scotland website. There’s a good chance that a supermill once stood where now we buy groceries.

In the centre of Rawtenstall, we passed the famous Mr Fitzpatrick’s temperance bar (where I always take a pint of blood tonic) and a vintage chippy called Old Man Greenwood’s, which has been serving splits (chips and mushy peas) and babby’s yeds (steak and kidney pudding) since 1932 (it also sells fresh fish). After passing the terminus for the East Lancashire heritage railway, underneath the aforementioned chimney, and through a small industrial estate, we were on a path running along the side of the River Irwell (all the way to central Manchester if you’re so inclined). The busy A56 wasn’t far away, but it was peaceful and pastoral, with herons and mallards, and lots of songbirds; the all-day frost made the scene bewitching.

At the border with Greater Manchester, on Plunge Road, we went down into the woodland beside Dearden Brook. All that remained of the mill here were crumbling stone walls, draped, Angkor Wat-style, in a century of undergrowth. From Edenfield, we had distant views over the valley to Musbury Tor – a sort of miniature Pendle Hill, its pronounced profile standing out clearly amid the level moortops.

A hard-to-read small blue plaque on a house in Chatterton, bearing the specious title The Chatterton Fight, informs passersby that handloom weavers “were fired on by soldiers of the 60th Foot. Four men and one woman was killed. A fifth man, an onlooker, was also later shot dead.” The local magistrate, William Grant, had read the Riot Act, giving a green light to the violence. Soldiers fired 600 bullets into a crowd of 3,000 people over a period of 15 minutes. You can listen to actor Maxine Peake reading their names out loud here, on behalf of the WUBC.

Lancashire historians believe the significance of the April 1826 rising, and the Chatterton Massacre, have been unjustly overlooked. But the events of those four days – brave and tragic – are a historical bridge between the Luddite risings, Peterloo and Chartism. In the heartfelt words of Dr David Gordon Scott, founder and chair of the WUBC – who began organising remembrance walks in 2022 – “walking in the protesters’ footsteps and feeling the solidarity that arises by participating in their journey, deepens our understandings and sense of empathy with those courageous souls who 200 years ago risked their lives in a desperate attempt to ensure that their loved ones had enough to sustain them in the bleakest of times”.

See weavers-uprising.org.uk for more information on the history of the Weavers’ Uprising, plus dates and booking information for the guided walks

Chris Moss is the author of Lancashire: Exploring the Historic County that Made the Modern World, published by Old Street Publishing (£25). To support the Guardian order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

This is the April 21, 2021, edition of the Essential Politics newsletter. Like what you’re reading? Sign up to get it in your inbox three times a week.

Outgoing presidents often leave decisions for their successors to take on.

Over the last two decades, and four presidents, how to end America’s longest war — in Afghanistan — has been among the largest open questions. President Biden inherited it from President Trump, who inherited it from President Obama, who took it from President George W. Bush. Unpopular, seemingly unending and unwinnable, the war is a case study in how the choices of one administration echo into the next.

Last week, Biden formally announced a deadline of Sept. 11 — the 20th anniversary of the terrorist attacks that provoked the U.S. invasion of Afghanistan — to end military involvement in the country.

“War in Afghanistan was never meant to be a multigenerational undertaking,” he said.

The prospective exit also has been years in the works. Obama promised to scale back U.S. involvement, but first he sent a surge of troops. Trump vowed several times to withdraw all troops, making chaotic progress that stopped short of a full exit. Biden is now the third president to make a similar commitment.

Whether he will follow through remains to be seen. My colleagues David S. Cloud and Tracy Wilkinson have extensively covered the American involvement in Afghanistan, from Trump’s growing tensions with the Pentagon over withdrawal to the lives of Afghanistan’s youngest generation, which was born into U.S. occupation.

Taken together, their work over the last few years reveals the deep roots of Biden’s promise, and the complicated history that will color his path forward.

The long path to leaving

January 2017: A president who promised peace leaves office after eight years of war

During his first presidential campaign, Obama pledged to end the war in Afghanistan, as well as in Iraq. He ended his presidency as the first two-term president to see U.S. forces at war for all eight years.

Experts saw his legacy as mixed. He did reduce the number of troops in Afghanistan, cutting their ranks to 8,400, and his administration reduced American deaths — if not Afghanis’ — by relying on diplomacy and on drones to launch airstrikes. Yet intelligence officials said the U.S. faced more threats in more places than the country had seen since the Cold War. “We’re now wrapped up in all these different conflicts, at a low level and with no end in sight,” one expert told The Times.

August 2017: Trump presides over a stalemate and negotiated settlement

Trump the candidate ran as a tough-on-the-Taliban leader, promising a hard-fought and fast victory to end U.S. engagement. But Trump the president softened when it came time to reveal formal plans, Cloud and Wilkinson wrote with former Times reporter W.J. Hennigan. Fighting continued — to show U.S. forces could not be pushed out — while Trump promised that the 16-year war might end “some day” in a negotiated settlement. It was an acknowledgment that victory would elude a president who loved to win and refused to concede defeat.

“This entire effort is intended to put pressure on the Taliban, to have the Taliban understand you will not win a battlefield victory,” then-Secretary of State Rex Tillerson said. “We may not win one, but neither will you. So at some point, we have to come to the negotiating table and find a way to bring this to an end.”

By February 2018, the Trump administration proposed a defense budget that increased spending in Afghanistan by almost $2 billion, for a total of $48.9 billion in the next fiscal year.

December 2018: Trump presses for peace talks and announces a withdrawal of half of troops

That month, a series of announcements signaled Trump’s growing dissatisfaction with involvement in Afghanistan. Increased Taliban attacks had caused hundreds of Afghan civilian and military casualties a month, prompting Trump administration officials to press for a cease-fire agreement, but with dim prospects, Cloud wrote.

Less than two weeks later, administration officials announced a drastic plan: withdraw up to half of the 14,000 American troops serving in Afghanistan, potentially by summer. The backlash was swift from U.S. lawmakers, allies and even the Pentagon. Defense Secretary James N. Mattis was so furious that Trump would abandon allies in Syria and Afghanistan that he resigned in protest, as Cloud reported.

February-May 2020: A truce and a landmark agreement to withdraw

With 12,000 troops still in Afghanistan, the Trump administration brokered a temporary deal with the Taliban to reduce violence for a week in February, Wilkinson reported. The test was a success, and on Feb. 29, U.S. and Taliban officials signed an accord to end the war. The Taliban would prevent Al Qaeda and other terrorist groups from using Afghan territory to threaten the U.S., without renouncing its terrorist ties. In return, the U.S. would withdraw its troops within 14 months, setting a deadline of May 1, 2021.

The plan again drew backlash, from former Trump and Obama administration officials, who warned a complete withdrawal could backfire, Cloud, Wilkinson and Stefanie Glinksi reported. Even as conflict continued between the Taliban and the Afghan government into May, the Trump administration remained committed to removing troops.

November 2020: Hopes of exiting before the election dashed

Trump, hoping that a full exit in 2020 would boost his reelection prospects, made clear to advisors that he cared little about conditions in Afghanistan, Cloud and Wilkinson reported. He wanted out, period. By July, the number of troops on the ground had shrunk to 8,600.

But as the peace talks the U.S. hoped to broker struggled to get off the ground, administration officials said about 4,000 troops would have to remain into November. The Pentagon said too rapid a withdrawal would doom the talks, invite violence and cause American forces to have to abandon valuable equipment. Trump said he wanted a withdrawal by the end of his term in January, and in November — as he refused to concede his loss to Biden — he ordered troop levels reduced in Iraq and Afghanistan, to 2,500 in each country.

Trump’s relationship with Congress further deteriorated in December, in part over the bipartisan pushback to his withdrawal plans. It was among the reasons he cited in vetoing the annual National Defense Authorization Act, Cloud and Jennifer Haberkorn wrote.

April 2021: Biden says it’s “time to end the forever war.”

When Biden took the oath of office on Jan. 20, 2,500 troops remained in Afghanistan. But the new president faced the decision of whether to honor Trump’s May 1 deadline for withdrawing them — the final exit from the war, Cloud wrote. Once again, Defense Department officials pressured the president to delay a full withdrawal as the deadline the Trump administration negotiated with the Taliban approached.

On April 14, Biden made his decision public: The drawdown would proceed, but not so quickly. The U.S. would fully exit by Sept. 11, Cloud and David Lauter wrote.

“I am now the fourth United States president to preside over an American troop presence in Afghanistan. Two Republicans. Two Democrats,” Biden said. “I will not pass this responsibility onto a fifth.”

The top half of the front page of the Los Angeles Times on Oct. 9, 2001.

(Los Angeles Times)

Policing, policy and the Minneapolis verdict

— The conviction of former Police Officer Derek Chauvin for the murder of George Floyd reenergized a push for sweeping criminal justice reform by President Biden and leading Democrats, who said Tuesday’s verdict was just the first step on the path to national healing, report Evan Halper, Eli Stokols and Sarah D. Wire.

— Anticipating an uproar, Facebook said it would crack down on violent content, hate speech and harassment ahead of the Chauvin verdict. But as Brian Contreras reports, critics are wondering why the platform doesn’t take those precautions all the time.

The latest on the environment

— China, Japan and South Korea are the world’s biggest funders of coal-fired power plants around the globe — and the Biden administration is looking to win their agreement to deep cuts in their greenhouse gas emissions by the end of the decade, write Anna M. Phillips and Wilkinson.

— Biden will convene leaders from around the world on Thursday and Friday as he marks the United States’ return to the global fight against climate change, Chris Megerian writes. Three people with knowledge of the White House plans say Biden will pledge to cut U.S. greenhouse gas emissions at least in half by 2030.

— Solar panels, wind turbines and electric cars will go far in helping California and the Biden administration meet their aggressive climate goals — but not far enough. As time runs short, scientists and government officials say the moment to break out the giant vacuums has arrived, Halper writes.

More from Washington

— Vice President Kamala Harris traveled to North Carolina on Monday to talk about economic opportunities and electric school buses as part of the Biden administration’s efforts to promote its roughly $2-trillion infrastructure, clean energy and jobs plan, Noah Bierman writes.

— The Supreme Court is weighing whether immigrants granted temporary protected status can get green cards — and if the Biden administration will make that decision, David G. Savage reports.

— The Justice Department has brought charges against hundreds of people who stormed the Capitol during the Jan. 6 riot, but one of its most pivotal potential cases involves a man who never set foot inside the building, writes Del Quentin Wilber.

— After Jan. 6, many of the nation’s largest corporations pledged that they would suspend donations to elected officials who opposed the certification of Joe Biden’s victory, hindered the peaceful transfer of power or incited violence. The vast majority kept their word, report Seema Mehta, Maloy Moore and Matt Stiles.

— What is there left to say about House Speaker Nancy Pelosi? Plenty, it turns out. In a new biography, Pelosi dishes on chiding Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and using the nickname “Moscow Mitch,” writes Wire.

So much seems to cost too much nowadays.

The expensive nature of everything is a popular topic on Reddit and the subject of countless papers and think pieces.

Plus, every time you drive, you can see the escalating average cost for a gallon of gas throughout the state that ranges from $5.77 in Orange County, $5.78 in San Diego County, $5.80 in Los Angeles County and $5.86 in San Francisco County to the high of $6.57 in Mono County, according to AAA.

It can easily make anyone think having fun is unaffordable.

Fortunately, our Travel and Experiences team has put together a list of 75 fun things to do for under $20.

Here is a selection of those picks, while the entire list should be explored.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

Paddle a swan boat in Echo Park Lake (Echo Park)

Cost: $13 per hour, $7.50 for those under age 18.

On warm days, it’s hard to beat a ride on the swan boats at Echo Park.

They’re powered by foot paddles, and the pedaling is easy because you’re in no hurry. Maybe you’ll want to do a circuit of the lake (really a man-made reservoir). Maybe you’ll sidle up to the towers of whitewater rising from the mid-lake fountain.

Maybe you’ll wait until after dark (because the swans light up).

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

Experience L.A.’s esoteric history at the Philosophical Research Society (Los Feliz)

Cost: Free to visit, workshops and lectures from $10 and up.

Located at the intersection of Los Feliz and Griffith Park boulevards, the Philosophical Research Society has long been a place of mystery, intrigue and, for some, apprehension.

The Mayan Revival campus painted in Southwestern shades of clay, cream and sage was built in 1935 by the celebrated author and esoteric lecturer Manly P. Hall.

Today, it hosts a dizzying array of events each week including poetry readings, death cafes, sound baths, a weekly class on Buddhism, tarot and astrology salons and musical performances — some of which have a suggested donation of just $10.

If you visit, make sure to make time to browse the excellently curated metaphysical bookstore.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

Find the perfect meditation spot at the Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine (Pacific Palisades)

Cost: Free.

Whether or not you’re familiar with the work of Paramahansa Yogananda, who founded the Self-Realization Fellowship in 1920, if you live in Los Angeles you owe him a debt of gratitude for the smattering of lush, meditative gardens in Southern California that are still open to the public today.

Among those is Lake Shrine, a beautifully landscaped 10-acre property in the Pacific Palisades surrounding a spring-fed lake that is dotted with quiet meditation spots.

It is free to visit, but you will need to make a reservation online before you go. (Reservations open each Saturday at 10 a.m. for the week ahead, and they can fill up quickly.)

(Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)

Cozy up with a flick at the Paramount Drive-In Theater (Paramount)

Cost: $14 per adult, $7 per kid (ages 3-11).

For a night out that feels as cozy as a night in, head to the Paramount Drive-In Theater. In the comfort of your own car, you can spread out, munch popcorn and make all the commentary you want without getting looks from other moviegoers.

Tickets are purchased on arrival, and the parking lot is huge, so you’re bound to secure a good view of the big screen. There is a concession store on site with candy, chips and drinks, but you are free to bring all the snacks you want from home. Recline your seat all the way back, relax and enjoy the show.

Check out the entire list here.

The week’s biggest stories

(Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

Heat wave and environmental news

Los Angeles mayor, city council news

Cesar Chavez fallout

California governor’s race

Crime, courts and policing

What else is going on

Must reads

Other meaty reads

For your downtime

(Illustrations by Lindsey Made This; photograph by Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Going out

Staying in

L.A. Affairs

Get wrapped up in tantalizing stories about dating, relationships and marriage.

Have a great day, from the Essential California team

Jim Rainey, staff reporter
Hugo Martín, assistant editor, fast break desk
Kevinisha Walker, multiplatform editor
Andrew J. Campa, weekend writer
Karim Doumar, head of newsletters

How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to essentialcalifornia@latimes.com. Check our top stories, topics and the latest articles on latimes.com.

A FERRY route connecting the UK to Scandinavia could return after almost 20 years.

Brits could get a direct link to the ‘Gateway to the Fjords’ without setting foot on a plane.

There are talks of restarting a ferry route that could link Newcastle to Bergen in Norway for the first time in 18 years.

Historically, this route existed for over 140 years, and is being looked into being brought back by Newcastle City Council.

DFDS Seaways was the last company to operate the service – but this ended 18 years ago on September 1, 2008.

The crossing was usually overnight and the sailing lasted up to 22 hours – depending whether or not it stopped at Stavanger.

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In 2022 Bergen Cruise Line revealed that it was hoping to re-introduce a ferry service between Newcastle, Stavanger and Bergen starting this year.

The Newcastle City Council leader Karen Kilgour said in January of this year that she would “love to see the return of the ferry.”

The service was first introduced in 1890, just two weeks before World War Two.

It continued on and off for over 140 years which resulted in a special relationship forming between the two cities with Bergen even providing Newcastle with a Christmas tree each year.

This tradition continued right up until 2022 – the giving of a Christmas tree stopped, but the cities’ mayors now swap baubles each festive season.

Talks about bringing back the ferry route are still in the works.

Despite a journey across the seas not being available, Jet2 has direct flights from Newcastle to Bergen, taking just one hour and 25 minutes.

One-way flights in April with Jet2 start from £69.

Sun writer Emily-Jane Heap visited the Norwegian city to explore its natural wonders and pretty harbour.

She said: “If you take a stroll around the cobbled streets you will find an array of quirky gift shops, cafes and bars, as well as the vibrant Bryggen Nightclub.

“And the one-day Norway In A Nutshell tour is a must (£192pp, see fjordtours.com), showcasing the best of this country’s breathtaking nature.

“The carefully curated experience begins early, taking you straight from the city centre through more than 60 miles of wild mountain terrain on the Bergen Railway.”

When it comes to eating, Emily says to head to the Skyskraperen restaurant at the top of Mount Ulriken.

Here you can try ‘traditional Nordic food surrounded by nature’ – like grilled trout or a duo of beef.

There’s plenty of places to stop for a drink too – grab a pint of locally brewed lager from Ægir at the Flåmsbrygga Hotel.

For more, here are the beautiful destinations you can get to from the UK without flying including the ‘British Fjords’ & Caribbean-like islands.

And here’s another ferry route that could become a reality this year connecting Scotland to Europe.

TWO towns are back on the railway map for the first time in 60 years after new stations finally opened.

New stops have welcomed passengers again following a massive £185million project to restore long-lost rail links across the West Midlands.

Willenhall and Darlaston stations now sit on the line between Shrewsbury and Birmingham New Street via Wolverhampton — giving locals a direct route into the city.

The first train pulled in early on Thursday morning, marking the end of decades without rail services.

Both stations were shut in 1965 during the infamous Beeching cuts, when more than 2,000 stations across the UK were shut down.

Services will now run roughly every hour on weekdays and Saturdays, with no trains stopping there on Sundays.

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Commuters can expect to pay around £8.90 for a peak return from Willenhall to Birmingham, or £6.40 off-peak, while Darlaston passengers will pay slightly less.

From Darlaston, a peak return costs £8 and an off-peak ticket is £5.90.

The stations come with lifts, shelters, ticket machines and cycle racks, plus parking for 300 cars at Darlaston and 33 at Willenhall.

Pat McFadden, the MP for Wolverhampton South East which covers Willenhall, used the new trains recently, describing them as “clean, modern and easy to use”.

He added: “This is going to save people a massive amount of time. It’s going to enable people to take up jobs they probably couldn’t have taken up.

“It’s a transport boost, it’s a morale boost and it’s an economic boost to both towns.”

Walsall Council leader Mike Bird said the openings are “a major milestone for communities and a real boost for the borough’s future”.

Before we enter the clouds on snow-capped Helvellyn, I glance back down at Ullswater. The early morning sun is bursting around the dark corners of High Dodd and Sleet Fell, sending a flush of light across the golden bracken and on to the hammered silver of the lake.

Further away to the south, ragged patches of snow cling to the high gullies. The nearest village, Glenridding, can barely be seen behind the leafless trees and all I can hear is the gurgle of the stream. It is the quintessential Lakeland scene: the steep slopes above the water, the soft colours and hard rock, all combining into something inimitable. And judging by the photographic and artistic record, it is one that has hardly changed since the Cumbrian wind first ruffled a Romantic poet’s curls.

Our best loved national parks – the Lake District, Peak District, Eryri (Snowdonia) and Dartmoor – all officially opened 75 years ago, in 1951. It was the result of a long campaign, arguably begun by one of those Romantics, William Wordsworth, a poet whose particular love for the Lakes led him to observe that the area should be “a sort of national property, in which every man has a right and an interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy”. The resident of Dove Cottage at Grasmere fought, successfully, against railway building, noting the stupidity of destroying something precious in the pretence of increasing its influence.

That niggling dilemma has dogged the national parks ever since, but if Wordsworth were here now, I think he might approve, at least at first glance. The fate of some Alpine beauty spots has been avoided: no high-rise buildings break through the trees, no sports infrastructure litters the summits, and engineers have not blasted tunnels for bigger, faster, road and rail connections.

The planning process is tortuous, and woe betide anyone who likes a colour not in the Farrow & Ball catalogue, but our national parks survive, without sacrificing too much of their original charm.

Back in the 1970s my dad began taking me on his hiking trips. In those days, I didn’t share his excitement at “the views”, but I instantly grasped the magic of swimming under waterfalls, scrambling along ridges and sitting on mountain tops to eat hard-boiled eggs dipped in salt. He took us to all the national parks, and introduced us to their highlights. It was the start of a lifetime of exploration.

Dartmoor

The only area in England and Wales that has legal wild camping, Dartmoor is also the most threatened. A recent report detailed the sorry decline in biodiversity on its sites of special scientific interest (SSSI), but the truth is it remains in a better state than many other places. What makes Dartmoor special is the sheer extent of heathland: over 11,000 hectares of heather, gorse, bilberry and moor grasses, inhabited by birds, lizards, snakes and some rare butterflies. The top bird here is the red grouse, recently recognised as a distinct species, making it only the second reliably identifiable endemic British bird species.

Dartmoor’s reputation for other, more controversial species, is firmly established. On my first visit as a boy, I was reading The Hound of the Baskervilles and also glued to reports of escaped large cats. When we hiked past the infamous prison, and dad told us about “the Mad Axeman” inside, Dartmoor was firmly established in my head as the single most exciting area of Britain. I’ve never had reason to change that view.

Arguably the most evocative place is Wistman’s Wood, which is accessed from Two Bridges hotel, but popularity tends to destroy mystery and this is now an Instagrammed honeypot. Other excellent woodlands can be found down the Lydford Gorge near Tavistock or the Bovey Valley near Lustleigh, a village of thatched roofs where a cream tea is the acme of snackery. Try the Primrose Tearooms.

Nearby is Haytor Rocks, a magnet for climbers, and everyone else. It’s beautiful but popular. For tranquillity, try the military firing ranges: there’s nothing like an M115 Howitzer to deter most hikers, or perhaps it’s simply the need to check live firing times. It does seem to put visitors off, and there are wonderful viewpoints to be found, such as Yes Tor and High Willhays.

Eryri

In Eryri, the hunt for peace and tranquillity has one rule: avoid Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). Any other peak will be quiet in comparison. If you must go up Wales’s highest mountain, I suggest taking a less-frequented path, like the Watkin or Rhyd Ddu and go early – and I mean headtorch early. Another good option is the Ranger Path (Cwellyn), where the wind blew me off my feet as a nine-year-old. You might escape the crowds, but you can’t escape the weather.

Yr Wyddfa’s Crib Goch, one of Britain’s greatest ridge scrambles, can be a bit of a trial when oversubscribed, but there are many fine alternatives. Try Crib Lem on Carnedd Dafydd, accessible from Bethesda, or the Idwal Staircase, a tougher challenge that some might prefer to do roped up. Steve Ashton’s book Scrambles in Snowdonia is the essential guide.

One feature I love about Eryri is the way its industrial heritage has been repurposed to contemporary needs: the various slate mine attractions and the steam railways go from strength to strength. Bala Lake Railway has started work on extending its line into Bala town, a significant addition.

Lake District

The opening of the first parks triggered a wave of interest in hiking and a demand for route information. Like many others, my dad discovered Alfred Wainwright, whose hand-drawn pictorial guides are still a good way to find routes. Wainwright’s own favourite was Haystacks Fell, with an ascent from Buttermere via Scarth Gap. My own initiation into the joys of scrambling started with Wainwright routes up Lord’s Rake on Scafell Pike and Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark, both serious undertakings.

Scrambling and its sister sports, fell-running and scree-racing, have a proud history in Lakeland. Over in Wasdale, sheep farmer Joss Naylor was an inspiration. As a teenager, I witnessed his hell-for-leather approach to scree slopes, transforming them from places to be avoided into a new challenge.

Wasdale, with its historic inn, remains a favourite. If the trail to Scafell Pike is often busy, look out for classic treks like the Mosedale Horseshoe, taking in Pillar, a stiff challenge when torn shreds of cloud are whistling around your ears. For the sure-footed, the climbers’ trail passing beneath Napes Needle is another gem. The Needle is a satisfying climb with historic importance. Photos of early pioneers the Abraham brothers, standing on top in their 1890s hobnail boots, fuelled interest in the new sport of rock climbing.

Across to the east, the 17½-mile trek from Pooley Bridge to Troutbeck over High Street is an absolute gem, with sustained panoramas on a clear day. Another classic is theKentmere Round, which normally starts at St Cuthbert’s church, near Staveley. For sheer delight in Cumbrian topographical names, the Kentmere Round is a must: Yoke Fell is followed by Wander Scar, Toadhowe Well and Shipman Knotts, among others. The best advice is to find a fell with an unfamiliar name, get the OS map and devise a route. Asking a local also usually pays off.

After an epic day of snow and ice on Helvellyn, I take my own advice. I am staying at Another Place hotel along the Ullswater north shore. The lakeside panorama tells the tale of changing times: there are paddleboards and kayaks on the water; groups heading off on wild swims; and a mobile sauna by the shore. Hotel director and local man David Vaughan tips me off about a favourite walk, on nearby Gowbarrow Fell.

The path starts at Aira Force waterfall, a well-known attraction, and the car park is busy. Beyond the falls, however, things are quieter. At 481 metres, the Gowbarrow summit is not high, but the panorama is superb. Further on comes the real climax: a balcony walk around the contours and above the lake.

A kestrel swoops past, close enough to see the wind ruffle its chestnut feathers. At the end, the path drops down to the woods and there’s a young woman, hesitating. Her kit looks fresh from the packet.

“Is there any scrambling up there?” she asks nervously.

“No,” I say, noticing her immaculate nails. “But there’s lots of mud.”

She takes a deep breath and grins. “OK.” Then sets off. Joss Naylor, my dad and the Romantic poets would all be proud. Our parks are still doing their best for us.

Accommodation was provided by Another Place, The Lake, in Ullswater, which has double rooms from £125 B&B. Further information, visit nationalparks.uk

March 20 (UPI) — A U.S. district court has sentenced former Bolivian anti-drug chief Maximiliano Dávila to 25 years in prison for conspiring to import large quantities of cocaine into the United States.

Dávila, 54, was convicted of coordinating cocaine shipments and using heavy weapons to protect drug trafficking operations while serving in senior law enforcement roles in Bolivia under former President Evo Morales.

The sentence, imposed Thursday by U.S. District Judge Denise L. Cote in a Manhattan court, concludes a legal process that began with his arrest near Bolivia’s border with Argentina in 2022 and his extradition in December 2024, Bolivian newspaper La Razón reported.

Dávila served as head of Bolivia’s Special Force to Fight Drug Trafficking, the country’s main anti-narcotics agency, until November 2019. His tenure placed him among the most influential figures in Bolivia’s efforts to combat drug trafficking.

However, his career was marked by allegations of ties to criminal networks, which later led to international investigations, according to local outlet Red Uno.

Prosecutors in New York said Dávila used his position to facilitate drug trafficking operations rather than combat them, turning his office into a logistical hub for organized crime.

They said he ensured safe passage for aircraft carrying cocaine from Bolivian airstrips to intermediate destinations in Central America and the Caribbean, with the drugs ultimately bound for the United States.

According to the investigation, Dávila provided armed protection for cocaine shipments, Bolivian newspaper El Deber reported.

In 2022, the U.S. State Department offered a $5 million reward for information leading to his conviction, underscoring his alleged role in regional drug trafficking networks.

In addition to the 25-year prison sentence, Dávila will face five years of supervised release. His defense has indicated it may appeal, though legal experts say the strength of the evidence makes a reduced sentence unlikely.

SCREEN star Sydney Sweeney is rolling in dollar frills — after her new lingerie line helped to quadruple her fortune. 

The American actress is now worth $40million, up from $10million just two years ago. 

The news came as Sydney, 28, showed off a range of sexy pink and white underwear from her Syrn brand. 

The Seductress line launches next week after her original designs sold out in the US. 

Sydney launched the business on the back of becoming one of Hollywood’s most in-demand stars. 

She was worth some $10million in 2024 thanks to roles in black comedy The White Lotus, teen drama Euphoria and the rom-com movie Anyone But You. 

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Lucrative deals with Armani Beauty, Ford and Samsung followed — while controversial adverts for clothing brand American Eagle saw sales shoot up, along with Sydney’s profile and potential earnings. 

Last year she raked in $7.5millon for her role in hit psychological thriller The Housemaid. 

Sydney launched Syrn in January in a bid to take on fellow celebs Rihanna and Kim Kardashian — who have become billionaires through their clothing brands Savage x Fenty and Skims. 

The star’s racy photo shoots have seen her criticised for not being a “girl’s girl”. But hitting back, Sydney said: “People will say, ‘Oh, she’s doing this for guys’. 

“I’m like, ‘What’s more ‘girl’s girl’ than owning your body and doing it for yourself?’.” 

Iran’s strike on Qatar’s Ras Laffan gas facility will cut an estimated 17% of the country’s Liquefied Natural Gas export capacity for up to five years, officials say. The damage is a major blow to the global energy market, which could disrupt supplies to Europe, Asia and beyond.

March 19 (UPI) — Prosecutors said that if Marius Borg Høiby, son of Norway’s crown princess, is found guilty, he should serve more than seven years in prison for the 39 charges he faces.

The charges include four rapes and assaults, rape and domestic abuse, multiple breaches of restraining orders, and drug and driving offenses.

One charge of violation of a restraining order has been dropped.

Høiby, 29, pleaded guilty to several minor charges but denied the rape charges.

The final day of the trial is Thursday, but it could take months for the judges to give a verdict.

Several alleged victims have testified, including Høiby’s former girlfriend, influencer Nora Haukland.

In all four rape cases the victims were either asleep or incapacitated. Early in the trial, Høiby told the court, “I don’t sleep with women who aren’t awake.”

His mother is Mette-Marit, who is married to the crown prince of Norway. Høiby is her son from a previous relationship. He grew up in the royal family, but is not an official member of it.

Mette-Marit was a friend of the late sex offender Jeffrey Epstein, which was revealed from one of the Epstein files releases from the U.S. Justice Department. Her health has declined due to pulmonary fibrosis, and she has said needs a lung transplant.

The prosecution asked the court for Høiby to be in prison for seven years and seven months. It also asked that he be banned from contacting one of his alleged victims for two years and asked that several devices, including three iPhones and a MacBook, be confiscated. It also wants his driver’s license to be taken away for two years, and for him to have to take a new driving test after that time is up.

“These are very serious acts,” said state attorney Sturla Henriksbø. “It is among the most serious offenses in our criminal code to apply to violations of integrity. And it should entail a strict and tangible reaction in each case.”

Police attorney Andreas Kruszewski said Høiby should not be given a “penalty discount” because of media attention.

“The fact that you commit criminal acts after the media spotlight has been directed at you as a well-known person contributes to the fact that he should not receive a reduction in sentence,” Kruszewski said.

CEO Saad al-Kaabi says QatarEnergy may have to declare force majeure on long-term contracts for up to five years.

Iranian ⁠attacks on Qatar have wiped out ⁠17 percent of its liquefied natural gas (LNG) export capacity, causing an estimated $20bn in lost annual revenue and threatening supplies to Europe and ⁠Asia, QatarEnergy’s CEO says.

Saad al-Kaabi told the Reuters news agency on Thursday that two of Qatar’s 14 LNG trains, the equipment used to liquefy natural gas, and one of its two gas-to-liquids facilities were damaged in Iranian strikes this week.

The repairs will sideline 12.8 million tonnes of LNG production per year for three to five years, he said.

“I never in my wildest dreams would have thought that Qatar would be – Qatar and the region – in such an attack, especially from a ‌brotherly Muslim country in the month of Ramadan, attacking us in this way,” al-Kaabi said in an interview.

His comments came hours after Iran on Wednesday launched a series of attacks on oil and gas facilities across the Gulf region after the Israeli military bombed its South Pars offshore gasfield.

Tehran has been firing missiles and drones across the Middle East in response to the United States-Israeli war on Iran, which began on February 28.

It also has essentially blocked the Strait of Hormuz, a critical Gulf waterway through which about one-fifth of the world’s oil and LNG supplies transit, fuelling soaring petrol prices and global concerns about rising inflation.

Iran’s attacks on energy infrastructure have heightened tensions with its Arab Gulf neighbours, who have condemned the strikes as a violation of international law.

Iranian Foreign Minister Abbas Araghchi said on Thursday that his country would show “ZERO restraint” if its infrastructure is struck again as the Israeli attack on the South Pars gasfield continued to spur condemnation.

“Our response to Israel’s attack on our infrastructure employed FRACTION of our power. The ONLY reason for restraint was respect for requested de-escalation,” Araghchi wrote on X.

“Any end to this war must address damage to our civilian sites.”

‘Stay away from oil and gas facilities’

During Thursday’s interview with Reuters, al-Kaabi said QatarEnergy may have to declare force majeure on long-term contracts for up to five years for LNG supplies bound for Italy, Belgium, South ⁠Korea and China due to the two damaged trains.

“I mean, these are long-term contracts that we have to declare force majeure. We already declared, but that was a shorter term. Now it’s whatever the period is,” he said.

QatarEnergy had declared force majeure on its entire output of LNG after earlier attacks on its Ras Laffan production hub, which came under fire again on Wednesday. “For production to restart, first we need hostilities to cease,” al-Kaabi said.

The damaged units cost about $26bn to build, al-Kaabi said. He also told Reuters that the scale of the damage from the attacks has set the region back 10 to 20 years.

“If Israel attacked Iran, it’s between Iran and Israel. It has nothing to do with us and the region,” he said.

“And so now, in addition to that, I’m saying that everybody in the world, whether it’s Israel, whether it’s the US, whether it’s any other country, everybody should stay away from oil and gas facilities.”

A woman has shared how she managed to travel the world without spending a single penny – and she is sharing her favourite things about the life-changing experience

In an ideal world, everyone would be able to live out their dreams without worrying about the costs involved. But while most of us work to earn a living, one woman has revealed how she has managed to travel the world without spending a penny.

Sarah, known on social media as @sarahmonaco99, explained how she achieved this lifestyle – revealing that her “entire salary is 100 per cent disposable income. No rent. No food. No bills.” She shared that she lives and works on a yacht, where “everything onboard is covered”.

She said: “Accommodation, three meals a day, toiletries, travel to and from the boat – I have not paid a single living expense in two years. My first full season, I saved enough to put a deposit on an apartment. I was 24. My friends doing 9-5s are still saving. I’m not saying this to brag – I genuinely couldn’t believe it was real.”

Explaining how she got into the industry, she added: “Most people find their first season through Yotspot, Bluewater, or Saltwater Agency. No experience needed for entry-level roles. Just show up willing to work hard.”

Commenting on her post, one user said: “If I didn’t have a cat, I would so do this.”

Others were curious about the reality of the job, asking questions about working hours and expectations onboard, with one user writing: “Are you obligated to party with guests?”

In another post, Sarah shared some of the wild experiences she’s had while working on yachts, including gifts and behaviour from ultra-wealthy guests.

She said: “Rating the most unbelievable things billionaire guests did on our yacht…”

Giving the first example an 11/10, she said: “Moved the boat at midnight because the stars weren’t ‘visible enough’. Woke the captain at 12am. We sailed for two hours. The stars were the same.”

She rated another moment 10/10, adding: “Ordered £4,000 worth of groceries for a five-day charter – Wagyu beef, fresh truffles, three types of caviar. Ate none of it. Left it all on the boat when they disembarked. We ate like royalty for a week.”

She also revealed that the crew were tipped £11,000 by one millionaire because they “seemed like they needed it”.

Finally, she recalled one guest complaining that the Mediterranean Sea was “too blue” and asking if they could find somewhere with a “more interesting” water colour.

In the comments, users shared their amazement at the lifestyles of the ultra-rich, with many wishing they could experience that level of luxury.

One user said: “Those drinks look good.” Another added: “How do I get this job?”

METALLICA’S James Hetfield is engaged to his stunning girlfriend Adriana Gillett, four years after his divorce from his wife of 25 years.

The musician, 62, proposed to his other half underwater while swimming with sharks in an elaborate proposal.

She took to her Instagram to share the exciting news along with some pretty cool pictures.

In the snap, both can be seen wearing snorkelling gear in the water as James holds up a sign that reads: “Adriana Gillett will you marry me?”

A second picture shows a huge fish as they get up close to the sea creatures during their expedition.

Adriana captioned it: “The BEST birthday trip surprise. Swimming with whale sharks on Friday the 13th with the most unique, special and romantic proposal a Pisces could ever imagine.

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“In a sea full of fish, we caught each other. Thank you God for putting us together.”

Fans rushed to the comments section to send the couple their well-wishes as they enter this amazing new chapter.

One person gushed: “This ROCKS and makes me so happy!! Congratulations Addy & James!!”

Another enthused: “YES!!!! Fantastic!!! It’s been incredible to see the beautiful journey you both have been on and continue to travel. Much love and congratulations to you both!!!”

Somebody else commented: “Congratulations to the two of you! We are so happy for you.”

Yet another said: “Congratulations! No surprise, you two are one in a million.”

While a fifth follower added: “What a whale of a tale this is!!! Congratulations you two!!!”

The couple began dating in 2023 following his divorce from Francesca Tomasi the previous year.

The pair had been married since 1997 and have three children together – Cali, Castor and Marcella.

They filed for divorce in 2022, citing irreconcilable differences.

The guitarist has been open about his battles with addiction over the years and was forced to enter rehab in 2019.

This led to Metallica having to postpone their tour dates in Australia and New Zealand.

Sharing a statement on social media at the time, the band penned: “We are truly sorry to inform our fans and friends that we must postpone our upcoming tour of Australia and New Zealand.

“As most of you probably know, our brother James has been struggling with addiction on and off for many years.

“He has no, unfortunately had to re-enter a treatment program to work on his recovery again

“We are devastated that we have inconvenienced so many of you, especially our most loyal fans who travel great distances to experience our shows.”

The iconic heavy metal band was formed in Los Angeles in 1981 by James and drummer Lars Ulrich.

The current lineup is comprised of the founding members along with longtime lead guitarist Kirk Hammett and bassist Robert Trujillo.

They’ve released 11 albums over the last four decades and are one of the most commercially successful bands’ of all time.

This stunning 17th century estate was home to the Jones family for centuries and is now a real-life time capsule open to visitors

Near Moreton-in-Marsh in Oxfordshire sits a magnificent estate, which once belonged to the very same family for centuries.

Originally constructed as an enormous display of wealth and influence in the early 17th century, it has since transformed into a public space where visitors can explore and immerse themselves in British history.

Chastleton House remained a constant fixture within the same family for hundreds upon hundreds of years, as the estate continued to stay in their possession, handed down through the generations.

Today, the property stands in Oxfordshire as a genuine time capsule, barely altered, featuring an impressive great hall, gallery room and numerous collections that once belonged to the distinguished family.

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Guests can wander the grounds and take a guided tour of the rooms that contain countless memories for the Jones family.

One visitor wrote on TripAdvisor: “Beautiful house and gardens with discrete but attentive guides. From the entrance to the exit, a fantastic visit. A huge family home with a fascinating past.”

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Early history

It’s thought that some form of settlement has stood in Chastleton for over 1,000 years, but by the 16th century, the site of the house as we recognise it today was owned by the Catesby family.

That was until Walter Jones bought the land and previous house from Robert Catesby, and it remained within his family for 400 years.

He demolished what remained of the original property and constructed a stunning building in its place, completed in 1612.

His acquisition was intended to mirror his illustrious legal career, and he sought to establish himself as a country gentleman, having now become a landowner.

Throughout the following century, the Jones family continued to form unions with several well-established gentry families, helping to cement this standing.

The final direct descendant of Walter Jones, however, was Arthur Jones, who inherited the estate in 1813 and carried out some structural enhancements to the residence.

Following his death, the property stayed within the family, though not with a direct descendant; rather, it was handed down to a distant cousin by marriage named John Henry-Whitmore Jones.

The final chapter of this family tree’s ownership concluded in 1991, when the National Heritage Memorial Fund purchased Chastleton and transferred it to the care of the National Trust.

Regrettably for the final occupants, the expense of maintaining the building was becoming far too substantial.

Preservation

The National Heritage Memorial Fund acquired Chastleton in 1991, and the majority of its original contents remained precisely as they were before it was transferred to the National Trust.

In an effort to maintain that mystical ambience that can only be attributed to centuries of tales and memories on the grounds, there was a plan to preserve the house, not restore it.

With this, they merely repaired parts that were damaged, which took a total of six years, to ensure the building was structurally sound and stable.

The stunning home was later reopened for the public to witness all its magic up close in 1998.

Visiting

It’s thought that one of the true treasures of the house is the Long Gallery, boasting the longest-surviving barrel-vaulted ceiling in the country. Due to neglect, the plasterwork required some refurbishment, which occurred in 1904.

Part of the room’s splendour is attributed to the mask heads located at the west end of the room, extremely rare survivals from the 1600s era, believed to have been used as a weapon to ward off evil spirits.

Beyond the confines of the house lies a vast, impeccably maintained garden, offering a sense of tranquillity and relaxation. Contributing to this glory is the Jacobean Pleasure Garden, also known as the Best Garden – a name that speaks volumes about its beauty.

To fully appreciate it all, visitors can embark on the Wilderness Walk, designed to provide not just a soothing stroll around the gardens but also the very best views of the house and the ever-changing gardens through the seasons.

One recent visitor said: “The house is amazing, a time capsule of a grand country house decaying over the years, with the fantastic result of being able to see how things really were without Victorian (or other) alterations. And top tip, do enjoy the Chastleton Teas at the church right next door.”

The property welcomes visitors from mid-March onwards with opening hours of 1pm until 5pm. Adult admission is priced at £15, while children’s tickets cost £7.50 and families can purchase a ticket for £37.50.

All the predictions, drama and pageantry of Hollywood’s biggest night will play out at the Dolby Theatre this afternoon as the 98th Academy Awards get underway.

How many awards will “Sinners,” directed by Ryan Coogler, win from its record-setting 16 nominations? And will Coogler win best director? Our critic says, “no.”

Tonight is also a big evening for our entertainment team, which has been producing features, previews, explainers, predictions and so much more.

Let’s jump into some of that work.

How and when to watch

My colleague Katie Simons provided some show basics, like it’s 4 p.m. Pacific start time.

The 2026 Oscars will air on ABC, and those with cable subscriptions can also watch by logging into the ABC app or abc.com.

The telecast will also stream live on Hulu, YouTubeTV, AT&T TV and FuboTV. Internationally, the ceremony will be broadcast in more than 200 territories. You can check your local listings here.

When the red carpet viewing gets underway

“Chicken Shop Date” host Amelia Dimoldenberg will return, for a third-straight year, as social media ambassador and correspondent for the official red carpet, which will kick off at 3:30 p.m. on ABC and Hulu.

For extended coverage, E! will begin its red carpet broadcast at 1 p.m. ABC’s coverage begins at 12:30 p.m., followed by “The Oscars Red Carpet Show,” hosted by Tamron Hall and Jesse Palmer.

“Sinners” is picking up steam heading into the show

My colleague Greg Braxton wrote about how award prognosticators believe Sinners gained positive press after its stars — Delroy Lindo and Michael B. Jordan — were called a racial slur at the BAFTAs.

Jordan’s and Lindo’s handling of the BAFTA incident, along with warmly received victories for the “Sinners” cast at the Actor Awards on March 1, has given the Warner Bros. release unexpected momentum leading up to Sunday’s Oscars ceremony.

Although it received a record-breaking 16 nominations, the film has been largely overshadowed through much of awards season by Paul Thomas Anderson’s political thriller “One Battle After Another.”

And Timothée Chalamet of “Marty Supreme” had been considered for months as an almost-certain lock for lead actor. But the events in past weeks have seemingly positioned “Sinners” for upset wins in the picture race and lead actor for Jordan.

Who’s going to win?

Our critic Amy Nicholson and our expert Glenn Whipp believe they know the winners and the snubs.

Nicholson believes “Sinners” should win for best picture.

Nicholson wrote that the Jim Crow-era murder musical is the best kind of smart filmmaking, a barn-burner about religion and art and race that ditches the speeches for scenes of action and romance.

Every character — from Miles Caton’s rebellious guitarist and Jack O’Connell’s lilting vampire to Wunmi Mosaku’s soulful witch and Michael B. Jordan’s bootlegging twins Smoke and Stack — has been scarred by life in 1930s Mississippi.

She also said the film “Eddington” should’ve been a contender (perhaps a nod to “On the Waterfront”). Ari Aster’s merciless black comedy drags us back to May 2020 when tempers, temperatures and misinformation were heating up across America.

Dueling civic leaders Sheriff Joe (Joaquin Phoenix) and Mayor Ted (Pedro Pascal) agree that COVID has yet to arrive in their New Mexican hamlet.

Whipp wrote that “One Battle After Another” vs. “Sinners” is very much a 1A/1B situation, with Anderson’s epic having the slight edge.

But with the Oscars, quality is often secondary to an awards narrative. Both movies have cultural relevance.

Both won critical acclaim and, to a degree, commercial success. (Though “One Battle” wasn’t the blockbuster “Sinners” was, it still grossed more than any other movie in Anderson’s career.) “Sinners” scored 16 Oscar nominations, the most in history; “One Battle” was close behind with 13.

There’s much more to read in the above links. Enjoy them and the Oscars.

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When I think of the solidarity of musicians, I recall an iconic scene from the film “Titanic.”

It’s the one where a quartet plays “Nearer, My God, to Thee” as the great, “unsinkable” ship sinks into the North Atlantic Ocean.

They attempted to offer calm amid a sea of panic as passengers and crew feverishly boarded lifeboats. The events were based on a true story and historians note that the body of the Titanic band leader Wallace Hartley was found floating in the ocean “with his music case strapped to it.”

Even in tragedy, we seek music to bring us solace.

Much closer to home, musicians from Pacific Palisades, Altadena and other affected areas have been challenged to keep the music going after losing instruments, studio equipment and business along with their homes in the January 2025 fires that claimed the lives of 31 people.

One organization, Altadena Musicians, launched the app Instrumental Giving to connect donors who can spare an old piano or a gently used cello with those who lost similar instruments.

KC Mancebo, an Altadena Musicians advisor, spoke with The Times about the group’s mission and success.

The campaign’s genesis

It started with composers Brandon Jay and his wife, Gwendolyn Sanford, who saw their Altadena home, music studio and several instruments destroyed by the Eaton fire.

Shortly after the fire, Jay posted about the lost equipment and what each piece meant to his family.

He said the response from that post — hundreds of people offering their instruments and other types of aid — left him “overwhelmed and gobsmacked.”

He called friends and helpers from throughout the music industry, including Mancebo, chief executive of the event production and talent booking agency Clamorhouse, hoping to offer to others the same help he received.

Mancebo had been helping homeowners navigate fire insurance paperwork and processes.

“Brandon Jay asked, ‘Why don’t we start gathering instruments for our friends,” Mancebo said. “We had 25 friends in the Palisades and 15 friends in the Eaton fire that lost everything, so we and others got involved.”

How’s it going so far?

The organization has passed out around 3,500 instruments to 1,200 families since the first donations in late January 2025, Mancebo said.

The donations range from ukuleles to Steinway & Sons pianos.

“We’re providing instruments to anyone from children who lost their first instruments to people who lost their entire studio,” she said. “The need is great.”

The gifts have come from individual donors and corporate benefactors such as JBL, which has provided speakers and equipment, as well as guitar makers Fender and Gibson, among others.

Rebuilding from the ashes

Mancebo lost her Westside home eight years ago because of a defective dryer that caught fire, she said.

“I went through the whole process of insurance, permitting and rebuilding and we didn’t have FEMA or anyone to help,” she said. “I want to provide that help to those in a similar situation.”

Mancebo said it took eight years to recover and rebuild her home.

“No one is fine after the first year,” she said. “Everyone needs help.”

Brentwood resident Amy Engelhardt, a singer/songwriter, composer, lyricist and playwright, donated her Kawai Upright Piano to the Altadena Musicians organization on March 10, 2026.

(Courtesy of Amy Engelhardt)

One person’s goodbye is another’s hello

Brentwood resident Amy Engelhardt, a singer/songwriter, composer, lyricist and playwright, loved her Kawai upright piano she purchased through a PennySaver ad in 2000.

“It was a deal for the starving artist,” she said. “I paid so little and I always considered it a gift.”

Since then, Engelhardt said she has written all of her music on that piano. She didn’t, however, play it while recording her Grammy-nominated vocal group, the Bobs.

Still, she donated her piano this week to a woman who lost her home. The instrument would not be making the permanent move with Engelhardt back to New York, where her playwriting services are in demand.

“I did get emotional about it, but it’s OK,” Engelhardt said. “It’s comforting knowing that someone else will love it and create their own memories.”

Those interested in donating can check out https://altadenamusicians.org.

The week’s biggest stories

(Hiro Komae / Associated Press)

War with Iran

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A selection of the very best reads from The Times’ 143-year archive.

Have a great day, from the Essential California team

Jim Rainey, staff reporter
Hugo Martín, assistant editor, fast break desk
Kevinisha Walker, multiplatform editor
Andrew J. Campa, weekend writer
Karim Doumar, head of newsletters

How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to essentialcalifornia@latimes.com. Check our top stories, topics and the latest articles on latimes.com.

Zoe Markos, who appeared on Neighbours as an extra before landing a speaking role, has revealed what it’s really like working on the soap opera and let slip some backstage secrets

An actress who previously on a huge soap opera has opened up on what it’s really like on set.

Neighbours first aired in 1985 and initially ended in 2022, however, the show was later revived by Amazon before its final cancellation in 2025.

Over its long history, the Australian serial drama launched the careers of global stars like Margot Robbie, Kylie Minogue, Russell Crowe, and Liam Hemsworth but what is it actually like to be on the set of Erinsborough?

Zoe Markos first joined Neighbours in 2012 as an extra before eventually landing a speaking role in 2025 as Louisa Palamountain and she’s now shared some behind-the-scenes secrets that viewers might not know.

Speaking to JoeFortune, Zoe explained: “The studio is literally Erinsborough, built to feel like a real town. Walking around, you genuinely feel like you’re in an actual town because of how well it’s been designed. The sets are much smaller than they look on TV.

“For example, when you’re pretending to make juice or cook something, none of the utensils actually work but it doesn’t matter because the illusion is perfect.

“What really blows me away is how much history is packed into those sets. Especially when I was involved on the production side, I got to see props, furniture, and chairs dating back to the 1980s, all carefully preserved.

“They even have old VHS tapes of episodes that haven’t been digitised yet. It’s incredible. I think most people don’t realise just how much history was made in that studio and on that show. It’s truly remarkable.”

Zoe went on to share some bizarre rules she had to follow on set, revealing: “You can’t actually talk, so you have to mime.

“For example, if you’re opposite someone or asked to have a conversation on set, you just can’t speak. It’s probably common on all shows, but in party scenes, for instance, they don’t play the music, so you have to dance without it. It can feel a bit awkward.

“Another thing is that you really have to be very quiet and not make any noise, which is kind of funny when you think about it. Those would probably be some of the little secrets about being on set that people don’t usually notice.”

Moving on to clothing, Zoe added: “As an extra, it depends on your role. If you are part of the main background, like a work guard or a specific set role, they usually provide your costume. If you are just a regular member of the community in a scene, they might give you clothes or accessories.

“If not, they will send a brief to your manager or directly to you if you do not have one, explaining what you can and cannot wear.

“Generally, they avoid patterns like polka dots or anything too busy. They prefer plain clothing with no logos, and you definitely cannot wear anything that could be copyrighted.”

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The village was evacuated in 1943 when residents were given just one month to leave – now frozen in time, it’s a haunting tourist attraction

A deserted Dorset village stands as a unique place in Britain, a relic from the past that hasn’t been erased from memory. Tragic events forced inhabitants to abandon their cherished homes many decades ago.

Tucked away on Dorset’s breathtaking Jurassic Coast, a visit to Tyneham village feels like travelling through time. Visitors can catch a window into the existence of the residents who were compelled to desert the village during the Second World War.

It was 1943 when the thriving settlement of Tyneham saw their world turned upside down forever. Britain was deep into World War Two when the military commandeered the village for training operations.

This meant heartbroken locals were handed just one month’s warning to evacuate their properties where countless families had resided for centuries.

The wartime government seized Tyneham village and its surrounding territory to establish a training facility for the Allied forces, due to its proximity to the Lulworth firing range.

Residents were convinced they were sacrificing their properties for the nation’s benefit and expected to come back after the war ended.

A message was attached to the church door, which stated: “Please treat the church and houses with care. We have given up our homes where many of us have lived for generations, to help win the war to keep men free. We will return one day and thank you for treating the village kindly.”

Tragically however, the villagers were never able to return to their homes in Tyneham as even after World War Two concluded, the village and surrounding area remained a training ground for military exercises.

Today the village, still preserved in time after more than 80 years, serves as a ‘thought-provoking and interesting’ visitor attraction. It welcomes guests at certain periods throughout the year and tourists praise its ‘fascinating insights into the lives of residents’.

When the village closes to visitors, the gates preventing entry are secured at dusk each evening.

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One TripAdvisor review states: “This deserted village has such an interesting history. The boards within the church detailing the villagers fight to be allowed to return to the village and the current position are very moving.”

Another TripAdvisor user called it ‘a wonderful place – very atmospheric and sad but in a way that keeps drawing you back to visit’.

Tyneham’s final resident, Peter Wellman passed away aged 100 in April this year – the centenarian made one last journey to the village in 2024, to revisit the location where he was born and raised.

During his 2024 visit to Tyneham, Peter recalled his early years, telling the Dorset Echo at the time: “We had no electricity, no mains gas and no running water – we had to pump that from near the church.

“I remember going to the beach and fishing and we often had mackerel. We were happy until we got moved out.”

Tyneham village sits within the Isle of Purbeck, though it’s not truly an island but rather a peninsula surrounded by the English Channel in Dorset.

A POPULAR ride at Thorpe Park has closed after nearly 40 years.

The Chertsey-based theme park’s Rumba Rapids was a river rapids ride where passengers would board a boat able to carry up to eight people at a time.

The ride originally opened back in 1987 as ‘Thunder River’ and was Thorpe Park’s first thrill ride, but has not been running since the end of the 2025 season.

Jack Silkstone, a theme park vlogger, posted a reel on Instagram announcing the news.

The post states: “After 39 years of soaking thrill seekers, Rumba Rapids at @thorpeparkofficial has now permanently closed.

“Join me as I take a trip down memory lane to look back at the history, rethemes and memories of one of Thorpe Park’s longest-running attractions.”

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Thorpe Park has shared the video to its Instagram story, as well as commenting on the video: “Thank you for helping us pay tribute to such an iconic ride!”

In an official statement, a Thorpe Park spokesperson told Sun Travel: “After nearly four decades of making a splash, Rumba Rapids at Thorpe Park has permanently closed.

“First opening as Thunder River in 1987, the iconic water raft ride has been soaking generations of thrillseekers ever since.

“While we don’t have plans to share just yet on what’s next, we’re always reviewing our line-up of world-class rides and attractions to make sure Thorpe Park remains the UK’s most thrilling theme park.”

Riders would begin at the highest point of the ride on a turntable belt before turning sharply and heading down a curve to make the boat spin.

The boat would then head into a tunnel with a waterfall effect, before exiting the tunnel and entering the wave section of the ride.

The riders would then pass under a bridge and pass a photo opportunity.

The Rumba Rapids was the park’s second-oldest ride at the time of its closure.

Taking to social media, several fans have expressed their sadness at the news.

One person commented: “Sad times. I always enjoyed going on this to have a break and a chill from all the coasters.”

Another person said: “End of an era, the soundtrack alone was ICONIC.”

Over the years the park has been rebranded a few times, including in 2002 becoming Ribena Rumba Rapids with the colour theming changing from yellow to purple and the ride got its own soundtrack.

In 2007, the partnership with Ribena ended and the ride became Rumba Rapids.

A decade later the ride was re-themed to fit in with the design of the Jungle area of Thorpe Park.

Thorpe Park also recently announced that they would be closing the waterpark after more than 35 years.

Instead, Amity Beach pool will be replaced with a new attraction called The Launchpad, which will be a recharge zone.

In other theme park news, an English seaside theme park has scrapped its entry fees and will soon have a huge new ‘showstopper ride’.

Plus, the European theme park you won’t have heard that’s revealed a huge £78million expansion plan and you can fly there for £14.

The U.S. Navy has conducted at least one new round of live-fire tests of its prototype electromagnetic railgun at the White Sands Missile Range (WSMR) in New Mexico. The service had shelved its railgun effort in the early 2020s, at least publicly, after work that had shown promise ran into technical hurdles. A railgun is now set to be a key feature on the future Trump class “battleships.”

A brief mention of the new railgun testing is included in a document highlighting achievements by the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Port Hueneme Division (NSWC PHD) in 2025. NSWC PHD, which is part of Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA), primarily operates from Port Hueneme in California, but it also maintains a detachment at White Sands. The U.S. Army manages the WSMR, which other branches of the U.S. military also use for a wide variety of research and development and test and evaluation activities.

The “WSD [White Sands Detachment] tested a railgun to collect critical information about high-velocity firing during a three-day campaign at White Sands Missile Range (WSMR) in New Mexico,” the year-in-review document says. “The testing in February [2025] was a joint effort between WSD and NSWC Dahlgren Division in Virginia and conducted for Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA)’s Joint Hypersonics Transition Office.”

The railgun had originally been installed at a land-based test site belonging to NSWC Dahlgren in Virginia. The Navy announced in 2019 that it had moved the weapon to the WSMR. Plans to conduct at-sea testing of the weapon were repeatedly delayed and never materialized.

TWZ has reached out to NAVSEA for more information about the three-day test campaign last year and its objectives, and to ask whether any other live-fire testing of the prototype railgun at WSMR has occurred since 2021. That year, the Navy had announced its intention to close out work on the railgun and effectively put what was left of the program into storage.

“Railgun hardware will be realigned to maximize its sustainability to facilitate potential future use,” the Navy had said at the time. However, there do not appear to have been any disclosures of further testing of the weapon before now.

The video below shows the prototype railgun being fired at the test site in Virginia in 2016.

Electromagnetic Railgun – First shot at Dahlgren’s new Terminal Range

Without more information, it is hard to say what the purpose of the February 2025 tests may have been. That the testing was done in support of the Joint Hypersonics Transition Office (JHTO) could point to the railgun having been used for work unrelated to the weapon itself. Established in 2020, the JHTO is broadly tasked to facilitate the development of new hypersonic technologies and help transition that work into formats that could lead to operational capabilities. As a pure test asset, the railgun might offer an additional way to launch suitably sized payloads at extremely high speeds, but there are other ways available to do that kind of work, and it is not clear that using the weapon in this way makes sense. The U.S. military has been working to expand various aspects of its hypersonic test infrastructure, in general, in recent years amid a surge in new development efforts in that space.

At the same time, as noted, the Trump class “battleship” effort, also known as BBG(X), has also now breathed new life into the prospect of an operational U.S. naval railgun. President Donald Trump rolled out plans for new large surface combatants, which are expected to displace around 35,000 tons and also be armed with a mix of missiles (including hypersonic types), traditional 5-inch guns, and laser directed energy weapons, as you can read more about here.

Whether the Navy has any plans to pick up where it left off with the railgun prototype currently at WSMR, which was developed by BAE Systems, or pursue a new design, is unclear. General Atomics, which has done railgun development work for the U.S. Army in the past, has expressed interest in being involved in helping arm the Trump class warships. Construction of the lead ship in the Trump class, to be named USS Defiant, is not expected to begin until the early 2030s.

General Atomics – Multi-Mission Medium Range Railgun Weapon System [1080p]

Railguns, which use electromagnets rather than chemical propellants to fire their projectiles at very high velocities, have historically presented significant technological challenges. They have significant power and cooling requirements, especially if the intent is to be able to fire multiple shots in relatively rapid succession. This, in turn, has generally meant that railgun installations are physically bulky due to the need for large energy storage batteries and cooling systems. Firing projectiles at very high speeds at any kind of sustained rate also imparts significant wear on the barrel. A worn-out barrel reduces range and accuracy, and creates potential safety hazards.

Electromagnetic Railgun Firing Hypervelocity Projectile @ Mach 7

At the same time, a practical operational electromagnetic railgun offers the promise of a very capable and flexible weapon that can be employed against a wide variety of targets at sea, on land, and even in the air, and do so at considerable range. This includes being able to intercept incoming threats, including ones that may themselves be moving at hypersonic speeds. A railgun also offers magazine depth and cost benefits compared to traditional surface-to-air and surface-to-surface missiles, given the smaller size and unit price of its rounds.

As an aside, just in the past year, Japan has announced significant progress with its naval railgun program, including the first known instance of a railgun mounted on a ship being fired at sea at a real target vessel. In 2024, it was reported that Japanese authorities had met with U.S. Navy representatives to discuss leveraging the latter’s previous railgun work, which raised the possibility of further collaboration in the future. Japan’s Acquisition Technology & Logistics Agency (ALTA) also has a formal agreement with the Franco-German Research Institute of Saint-Louis (ISL) to cooperate on the development of railgun-related technologies.

The ATLA video below shows previous live-fire testing of a prototype railgun at a facility on land.

試作レールガンの射撃

Other countries have also been pursuing railguns, particularly for naval use. A prototype railgun mounted in a large turret notably appeared on a People’s Liberation Army Navy (PLAN) ship in 2018, though the exact status of that program is now unclear. There has also been a very public naval railgun development program underway in Turkey in recent years.

Turkish electromagnetic railgun unveiled to experts – Anadolu Agency

If nothing else, the test firing of the Navy’s prototype railgun at the WSMR last year shows that it remains functional, at least to a degree, as the service now looks ahead to fielding an operational weapon of this type on the Trump class.

Special thanks to user @lfx160219 on X for bringing the railgun entry in the NSWC PHD 2025-year-in-review document to our attention.

Contact the author: joe@twz.com

BRITAIN’s third busiest airport has shut one of the terminals for good.

The terminal, which first opened in 1962, has closed as part of the airport’s £1.3billion transformation.

Manchester airport is turning into a two-terminal operation under the new layout.

All airlines have moved into the expanded Terminal 2, which now handles more than 75% of passengers, while Ryanair flights will operate solely from Terminal 3.

Chris Woodroofe, managing director of Manchester Airport, said: “While this is the end of an era for Terminal 1, it’s really the start of a whole new chapter for Manchester Airport.

“We’re proud to connect the North to the world and our £1.3bn investment in Terminal 2 means that we’re now bigger and better than ever – serving our passengers in a setting that rivals any airport Terminal across Europe.

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“It’s also allowing us to continue our growth and operate more flights to more destinations every single day. And we’ve achieved this at the same as making things more simple and straightforward for our passengers.

The closure also frees up space for new facilities at the airport, including hundreds of extra seats, a new bar called Sporting Chance and an Italian restaurant.

More than 2,000 signs across the airport have been replaced to reflect the changes, alongside a new parking system where all car parks are labelled P1 to P16 to make them easier to find.

The redevelopment forms part of the long-running Manchester Airport Transformation Programme, launched in 2015 to modernise the airport for future growth.

The first phase of the revamped Terminal 2 opened in 2021, with the full expansion completed in 2025, paving the way for Terminal 1 to be decommissioned.

The overhaul comes as Manchester Airport continues to grow, serving a record 32 million passengers in 2025.

This February has become the busiest on record with more than 2.05 million travellers.

BULLDOZERS have moved in on one of Britain’s most iconic seaside amusement parks, but thrillseekers have been thrown a lifeline.

Generations of holidaymakers have flocked to the legendary amusement park for more than a century of candyfloss and white-knuckle rides.

But Coney Beach Amusement Park in Porthcawl, South Wales, is now being reduced to rubble after bosses padlocked the famous gates for the very last time in October.

The park hosted a farewell fireworks display as it bowed out of the UK holiday scene for good.

The beloved attraction first opened way back in 1918 to entertain returning American WW1 troops, taking its legendary name from the iconic pleasure beach in New York.

Now, the massive plot is being completely flattened to make way for a mega-money waterfront regeneration project backed by the Welsh Government.

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This sweeping revamp will see the vintage arcades and dodgems replaced by up to 980 new homes, alongside a string of modern cafes and restaurants.

While gutted locals have mourned the loss of a true seaside legend, council chiefs insist the drastic facelift is the only way to secure the resort’s booming economic future.

However, devastated fans of traditional fairground magic won’t be left high and dry when the summer holidays roll around.

A new seasonal funfair is set to pitch up at the nearby Salt Lake site to ensure Porthcawl keeps its crown as a top tourist magnet.

Launching just in time for the Easter break, the brand-new family attraction will boast an epic big wheel, classic rides, and mouth-watering food stalls.

Run by the veteran showmen at Studt’s Events, the fully-stewarded site will even share its prime waterfront spot with the dazzling NoFit State circus this April.

It means that while the historic Coney Beach might be gone forever, the brilliant British tradition of seaside thrills is very much here to stay.