winter

ON hearing that I was going to Malta, my grandfather insisted I check out a street in Valletta affectionately known as “The Gut”.

A quick Google search revealed that this “historically notorious” alleyway used to be the city’s premier red-light and entertainment district for British and American servicemen.

Given that Grandad was in Malta during his Navy days in the 1950s, I dread to imagine what he had in mind when suggesting I go there above anywhere else in the country.

Nevertheless, I’m glad I followed his advice because, in the 70-odd years since, it has cleaned up its act.

Located at the opening of The Gut at the time of my visit, (but now in St George’s Square) was Fifty Nine Republic, a restaurant that has featured in the Michelin Guide five years in a row.

Its head chef, Maria Sammut, is one of Malta’s greatest culinary assets — named “Best Maltese Chef” in recent years — and serves some of the finest fare in Valletta.

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Her prawn tacos perfectly showcase the best of Maltese seafood — giant, juicy prawns fried in a satisfyingly crispy batter, with bright and delicate pickles elevating each mouthful — which you can enjoy in the sun of St George’s Square, opposite the opulence of the Grandmaster’s Palace.

Something I doubt my grandad did too often on his nights in the city.

It was a well-earned meal, too, after a morning spent getting to know Malta’s more adventurous side.

While the stereotypical image of a tourist in Malta may be that of an older person seeking some relaxing winter sun, there is plenty in the way of activities for holidaymakers with a penchant for getting the adrenaline pumping.

I am typically not that type of person, which I realised as I found myself dangling from a cliff face with little more than a bungee cord and a metal hook for safety, doing something called via ferrata.

It involves scrambling along precarious ledges, using fixed steel cables to ensure anyone who falls is just about kept alive.

So, instead of doing the crossword with a cuppa — my normal morning routine — I had to rely on my minimal upper body strength and uncharacteristically delicate footwork to take me from the bottom of a sheer cliff face right to the top.

As a man who struggles with vertigo, this didn’t come easily, but the impressive landscapes — rugged cliff tops and lush greenery stretching out until they met the shimmering blue sea on the horizon — made it more than worthwhile.

What’s more, I was surprised at how quickly I started to enjoy myself.

The combination of warm weather, pushing 20C in February, spectacular scenery and trying something exciting put a spring in my step — ironically, the last thing I needed as I clambered up to the summit.

Delighted to have survived, I tested my resilience further — horse riding through the countryside of Bidnija village.

Yet this turned out to be an altogether more peaceful affair, as my steed — the majestic Romeo — begrudgingly bore me on his back and clip-clopped through some tranquil and verdant scenes.

Aloe plants rose out of the ground, looking like large desert cacti, making me feel like I was in my own John Wayne movie.

I even tipped the brim of my hat to passers-by as I rode towards the sunset, thoroughly enjoying an activity I would never before have thought to try.

The same thing happened on repeat throughout my visit.

Whether it was e-bike riding along the Dingli Cliffs — the highest point on the island, with vistas stretching for miles over sapphire seas — or abseiling on Gozo, the second-largest island in the Maltese archipelago, my perceptions about what I enjoy doing were constantly being challenged.

That’s not to say I didn’t make the most of a chance to relax in the warmth, while thick grey clouds at home were refusing to let any sunlight through.

Staying at the Marriott Resort & Spa meant I could unwind after my exertions and, come early evening, I could be found on a sunbed by the outdoor pool on the 13th floor, overlooking St Julian’s Bay.

The hotel also has an indoor pool, a gym better equipped than most actual gyms, and a spa offering a range of treatments and massages, including couples’ options.

After a wind-down by the pool, evenings were spent exploring the extensive selection of bars and restaurants.

Although I couldn’t try all the highly recommended eateries, I was particularly impressed by Trattoria AD 1530.

This charming Michelin Guide restaurant is located in the fortified medieval town of Mdina, which Game Of Thrones fans will recognise as King’s Landing from series one.

It perfectly showcases the Italian influence on Maltese cuisine, with its seafood pastas particularly worth a taste.

Then there was Sole by Tarragon, which offers beautiful harbour views, locally-caught seafood and Mediterranean classics.

My advice — order the sea bass, one of their nautical-themed cocktails and the caramel and banana dessert.

I’ll just have to go back and try all the ones I missed another time. I’ll see if my grandad has any more hot tips.

HAVE you ever dreamed of becoming a famous Olympian?

It might be out of reach for most of us mere mortals.

But at one resort in Italy, you can feel pretty close to it — especially if you’re skiing alongside one of Britain’s greatest Olympic snowboarders.

I joined two-time Winter Games star and World Cup winner Jamie Nicholls on the slopes of the dreamily named Milky Way (Via Lattea) ski area in the Italian Alps.

The snowy realm played host to the stars of the Turin Winter Olympics in 2006 and you can feel like a hero as you ski off from the original starting huts of the giant slalom or downhill black runs.

Remnants of the Games can be seen everywhere from the former bobsled track ­— a giant concrete cobra now disused and frozen in time ­— to the vertigo-inducing ski jump, as well as the downhill slopes.

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The main athletes’ village — now a four-star hotel — dominates the village of Sestriere, from where more than 400km of pistes stretch all the way to Montgenevre in France.

I was staying at a smaller former athletes village in Pragelato, which is now owned and run by the all-inclusive holiday giant, Club Med.

It is the company’s only village concept, with the many chalets housing 350 rooms and surrounding a main hotel building to give it a cosy feel.

Club Med celebrated its 75th anniversary last year and the mantra from its founder, Belgian Gerard Blitz, is: “The purpose of life is to be happy. The place to be happy is here. The time to be happy is now.”

The always smiling, helpful and friendly staff try their best to make this true every day.

Every evening, a show including music, dancing and theatre is performed for both children and adults in the main bar, and the partying goes on long into the night.

Club Med was the original all-inclusive holiday company and packages include ski passes, ski lessons and all food and drink from a main ­buffet restaurant serving delicious local pasta, meats and cheeses, as well as a pizza trattoria and a fine dining option.

And what is exceptional about Club Med Pragelato is that it also has four restaurants on the mountain where you can eat out and drink for free as part of your package.

This means you can make the most of your day’s skiing as you don’t have to trek back to your hotel for lunch.

Olympian Jamie is a convert and regularly takes his family — wife Jenny and their two young daughters, Lily and Rosie.

He said: “It’s just very easy. You don’t have to think — everything is done for you.

“You drop the kids off at the kids’ club, they get them dressed, they get their ski boots on, they get them off to ski school . . .  it’s no faff for you.

“They really put the kids at ease. They’re very energetic, very fun, so it takes their mind off them leaving their parents.

“My eldest has always been a bit scared of doing stuff on her own, but they are really good at making sure that they feel happy and OK.

“They’re very flexible in terms of when you want to pick your kids up after ski school.

“You can go and eat lunch with them and then bring them back, or you could just leave them there the whole day at the kids’ club.

“For family holidays I’ve not experienced a better one.”

Access to the slopes is also simple — just a one-minute walk to the cable car up the mountain. The skiing at Pragelato offers everything from beginners to the most hardcore advanced.

Avalanche kits are also available for those who want to do some of the endless back-country woodland routes and mountain-top off-piste adventures.

Ski lessons are included for free and there is a kids’ club all day and in the evening so you can enjoy ­supper in peace.

And while the children are being entertained, the adults can slip off to the spa for a massage and to chill and repair tired limbs in the ­hammam steam bath and sauna.

With so much included, the price is definitely not cheap.

In fact, you might need some of that Olympic gold and silver to afford a family holiday here.

However, if you value the stress-free convenience, it’s definitely worth it.

Some of that Olympian spirit could even rub off on you and who knows, your dreams of becoming an Olympian might just come true.

WHILE most Brits are busy planning their summer holidays right now, the clever ones are thinking further ahead.

Club Med has just launched its Winter 2026/27 Sale, and all you’ll need to pay right now is a £150-per-person deposit – but you’ll need to act fast.

Club Med Winter 2026/7 Sale: Pay £150pp deposit

The Club Med sale, which runs until midnight on Friday (27th March), offers tiered discounts across a huge range of sunny destinations for departures between November 2026 and May 2027.

Nobody can be blamed for not thinking ahead to next winter: we’re barely out of the last one, after all.

But this is a great chance to guarantee some much-needed winter sunshine and – just as crucially – futureproof your next big holiday against the rising costs that have been predicted amid surging prices and cancelled flights.

Club Med tends to run very short-term deals on its packages; the last one we spotted was back in February, on ski holidays in the Alps.

In this new flash sale, you can save up to 15% on Superior rooms, while Deluxe rooms, Suites and Villas are slashed by 20%.

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Club Med Winter 2026/7 Sale: Pay £150pp deposit

It is particularly good news for families, with kids under six staying for free and the largest discounts applied to high-capacity villas.

There’s also a brand-new South Africa resort available to book, where thrill-seekers can surf the waves or fly over sugarcane fields on a trapeze.

You can even add a safari at the Vikela Safari Lodge to spot Africa’s legendary Big Five game animals (lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo).

Families looking for a tropical paradise may prefer Punta Cana in the Dominican Republic, which features a dedicated acrobatics playground and white-sand beaches.

Parents can even treat themselves to the Tiara space, where free Champagne is served every evening from 6 pm.

Couples can escape to Marrakech La Palmeraie, tucked away in Morocco’s oldest palm grove, with tranquil courtyards and top-tier food.

If you want to dodge the noise of the city’s souks, the Riad Luxury Space offers a private oasis for an intimate getaway.

Best of all, you don’t need a huge layout to secure these rates.

A low deposit of just £150 per person locks in the current price, protecting your 2027 holiday budget against future price increases.

Club Med Sun resorts on sale this week

From gorgeous Caribbean islands to bustling desert retreats, there’s a massive selection of world-class resorts included in Club Med’s sale.

• South Africa: Beach and Safari – book here
• Punta Cana, Dominican Republic: All-inclusive paradise – book here
• Marrakech, Morocco: Gateway to the Red City – book here
• Cancun, Mexico: Luxury beachfront – book here
• Maldives: Ultimate island escape – book here

With the 20% discount applied automatically, these high-demand spots are expected to move fast.

If you want to bag a winter sun bargain without the eye-watering price tag, you’ll need to move fast before these deals vanish on Friday.

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War, which saw Iran attack Qatar facility, has caused ‘high, volatile’ gas prices that could hit EU storage projections.

The European Union has urged member states to start early on meeting next winter’s gas storage targets after Iranian attacks on Gulf energy facilities caused prices to surge on global markets.

Energy Commissioner Dan Jorgensen sent a letter Saturday urging the bloc’s members to get to work “as early as possible” in the coming months to “mitigate pressure on prices and avoid [an] end-of-summer rush”, asking them to consider cutting their so-called filling target by 10 percentage points to 80 percent.

The move came days after Iran attacked Qatar’s Ras Laffan Industrial City complex, which provides about 20 percent of global supplies of liquefied natural gas (LNG). The attack, which came amid the US-Israeli war on Iran, was in retaliation for an Israeli attack on the Iranian South Pars gasfield.

State-owned QatarEnergy said that Iran’s attack on Qatar, which has been targeted throughout the duration of the war, knocked out 17 percent of Doha’s export capacity and would affect exports for up to five years.

The slowdown will mainly harm Asian buyers, including China, Japan, and India, which buy some 80 percent of QatarEnergy’s LNG.

But Europe, which only sources around 9 percent of its LNG from Qatar, will nevertheless be exposed to increased competition, with tanker traffic leaving the Gulf via the Strait of Hormuz throttled by the war.

Natural gas prices in the EU have risen by more than 30 percent since the start of the war on February 28, spiking after Israel’s attack on Iran’s critical South Pars gasfield and subsequent Iranian attack on Qatar’s Ras Laffan.

Jorgensen said that the EU’s gas supply, which has mainly been furnished by the United States since the bloc weaned itself off Russian energy over the Ukraine war, remained “relatively protected at this stage”.

“But, as a net energy importer on global markets, the resulting high and volatile global prices may also impact the EU gas storage projections,” he cautioned.

Jorgensen warned that developments “threaten regional and global security”, urging member states to refill stores early over a longer period.

The EU requirement for member countries to maintain gas reserves at 90 percent of capacity to meet winter heating and power demand underpins the region’s energy security.

Having cut that target by 10 percent, the energy commissioner noted that, in case of “difficult conditions” and a commission assessment, the countries could deviate by up to 20 percent.

Oil prices have also soared since the start of the war by more than 50 percent.

March 16 (UPI) — Even before a round of mid-May blizzards started blanketing an area stretching from South Dakota to northern Michigan on Saturday, a partial government shutdown already was making air travel miserable for Americans.

Extreme winter weather snarled all manner of transportation across the Midwest, while airports in Atlanta, Charlotte and elsewhere on the East Coast were slowed by pounding rain, on top of an increasing number of TSA employees either calling out sick or quitting their jobs because they are not getting paid.

As of early evening on Monday, there were 21,549 total flights delayed in the United States and 5,159 flights that were canceled, Flight Aware reported.

The Department of Homeland Security, which is home to the Transportation Security Administration, has not been funded since Jan. 30 amid a debate in Congress over funding the Department of Homeland Security, of which TSA is a part.

Democrats and Republicans in Congress disagree on adding guardrails for DHS agencies involved with immigration amid a crackdown by the Trump administration, which has left TSA unfunded.

The nation’s air traffic controllers, customs agents and TSA agents missed their first paycheck over the weekend, which has led to hundreds of TSA employees quitting their jobs, the New York Post reported.

The partial shutdown already had affected security and other services at airports, leading to long lines and advice that travellers arrive at the airport even earlier because of how backed up they have been.

On Sunday afternoon, as airports, travellers and millions at home prepared for winter weather to roll through overnight, the trade association Airlines for America, which represents both passenger and cargo airlines, sent an open letter to Congress pleading for them to fund TSA on predictions of what is already happening.

The CEOs, which include the leaders of the biggest U.S. passenger airlines, as well as FedEx and UPS, said that without funding TSA they expect travel issues during spring break, the World Cup and other national travel dates to be as chaotic as they were last year during the longest government shutdown in history.

Making matters worse has been a wide range of extreme weather across the country, from steady showers and a tornado watch shutting down Charlotte Douglas International Airport several times this morning — with the same occurring at major airports in Atlanta, Newark, Washington, D.C., Chicago, Detroit and Minneapolis, the Charlotte Observer reported.

The weather is not expected to let up, either, with the National Weather Service predicting that while the Midwest will get a bit of a break, severe thunderstorms with damaging winds and some tornadoes — as of early afternoon more than 34 million people were under tornado watches between Florida and New Jersey — expected later into the evening.

Athletes in T-shirts, fans applying suncream – have these been the Summer or Winter Paralympics?

If you were to listen to American Patrick Halgren, who called the conditions at the Milan-Cortina Games “tropical” and “like surfing”, you would think the former.

Until you were told he is a skier.

Since the 1992 Games, the Winter Paralympics have always been held in March, usually starting just shy of a fortnight after the conclusion of the Winter Olympics.

That means conditions during the Games have often been more spring-like than winter, with temperatures peaking at 26C four years ago in Beijing.

While such temperatures have not been felt in Cortina, it has been warm, and until a huge dump of snow fell the night before Sunday’s final day of competition, snow had only been seen on the groomed competition pistes.

A blazing sun on several days of competition, mixed with some rain, had caused snow on the courses to turn soft and slushy, which in turns sticks to athletes’ skis and snowboards.

Last weekend a third official training session for the Para-alpine skiing downhill events was cancelled in a bid to maintain the piste conditions.

While many athletes have praised the efforts of organisers to keep the tracks in as good a condition as possible, conditions on Friday during the men’s giant slalom events were far from ideal, with British visually impaired skier Fred Warburton describing it as a “bathtub of Slush Puppie”.

His guide, James Hannan, said: “The snow surface was changing every single gate, so we never knew how the ski was going to react.

“It was almost like survival of the fittest.”

It certainly proved that way during the sitting event, which followed the visually impaired and standing races: 18 athletes from a field of 37 failed to make it to the bottom of the course.

“The organisers need to look at scheduling with obvious changes of the climate that we’re experiencing,” said Warburton.

“Both the Olympics and Paralympics want to be top spectacles of skiing and allow athletes to put their best work down.

“We need to look at the schedule and move it forward in future. That’s way beyond my pay grade, but it seems pretty logical to me.”

Warburton’s words echoed those of retired American Paralympic snowboarder Amy Purdy, who this week said in a video on TikTok: “I don’t believe that the Paralympics should be happening right now.”

Her comments came after the snowboard cross course had to be adjusted following numerous crashes in training, partly because of its design but also the warm conditions.

British Para-skier Menna Fitzpatrick says she is already looking to the future after missing out on a medal at the Milan-Cortina Winter Paralympics.

The 27-year-old, who is Britain’s most successful Winter Paralympian, suffered an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) injury late last year and postponed surgery to compete at her third Games.

But after finishing fifth in her final event in Italy, the women’s visually impaired slalom, she told BBC Sport she wants to make it to another Games.

“Every end of a cycle marks a new challenge and my plan is to hopefully make it to France in 2030,” she said.

“I first learned how to ski in France so it’s almost like going home. That will be a really cool one for me to aim for.”

Fitzpatrick and guide Katie Guest saved their best finish for last after two sixth places in the super-G and giant slalom and ninth in the Alpine combined.

Austrian Veronika Aigner maintained her dominance with her fourth gold of the Games, finishing four seconds clear of compatriot Elina Stary.

Despite not coming away with another medal for her collection, Fitzpatrick was keen to focus on the positives.

“I think it’s been a really successful Games for us, considering where I was before, so I’m really happy, especially with the performance today,” she added.

“We really went out there and pushed it, and are really happy with the result.

“As an athlete you always hope for your absolute best skiing in a race. It often doesn’t happen like that and as athletes we’re really hard on ourselves when things are tough.

“It’s been a challenging two weeks, but just knowing that I’ve got these performances within me, even if the preparation didn’t go quite to plan, gives me confidence.”

When Zyw was diagnosed with MND, he was working as a sommelier and wine buyer in London. His first symptom was his left thumb going numb.

Initially misdiagnosed as carpal tunnel syndrome, Zyw “had no reason to think about this impossible, improbable diagnosis at the time”.

A third of those diagnosed with the devastating disease die within a year, half die within two. Zyw is one of the “lucky ones”.

While his disease has progressed slowly, he has now lost most of the functionality in his hands, and the muscles in his upper body are wasting away.

A return to snowboarding was one of the positives in the dark aftermath of his diagnosis.

Having learned to snowboard as a child on a dry slope in Edinburgh, he competed as a freestyler into his early 20s before a knee injury put paid to that.

“I learned very quickly that the only aspect of this diagnosis in my control is my attitude towards it,” he added.

“I couldn’t affect how quickly the disease was going to manifest itself, how quickly I was going to fall off a cliff, how quickly I was going to lose motor functions.

“When I held on to that positive message, every day became easier and that’s what I’ve done every day since.”

The Davy Zyw Fan Club has been out in full force at the Games, flying British and Scottish flags and donning blue beanies emblazoned with his surname to watch him in action.

On a bus up to the snowboard park, an impromptu chant of “No Davy, No Party” sounded out, renditions of which carried on throughout the day.

Among those singing course-side were Zyw’s wife Yvie and four-year-old son Aleksander, who was “shouting his head off in celebration and admiration” as his daddy whizzed past during the opening run.

That race, however, did not end as he had hoped – in hospital with two broken ribs after a heavy crash, having already injured his knee in official training.

Such is the pain from his broken ribs, he cannot laugh nor sneeze but nothing was going to stop him being back in the start gate for Friday’s banked slalom.

In that, he finished 19th – but that is irrelevant. This Paralympic experience was never about the medals or results.

“Two years ago I wouldn’t have been classifiable as a Para-athlete and in two years’ time I’m not going to be a competitive snowboarder,” he said.

“So I’m in this sort of tragic period of my diagnosis where I’m ill enough to be classified as a Para-athlete, but well enough to still be able to rip down on my snowboard.

“I’m grateful for the fact that the Games have come at this moment, because in a few years’ time it wouldn’t have been possible.”

Through skiing, he has achieved that.

He first experienced the sport on a trip with friends, but it was only two years ago that he realised this was his way to make his mark on the world.

“I touched the snow, and I never turned back,” he said. Etienne wanted to become the Caribbean nation’s first Winter Paralympian.

“At first skiing meant freedom to me, and then I realised it was inspiration. That is what the Paralympics are about.

“It is a message of hope to disabled people and the rest of the world.”

With US restrictions on Haitian immigration rights making it difficult for him to travel to train, last year – supported by his employer Bank of America – Etienne relocated from New York to London to be closer to the mountains of Europe for weekend training.

“Sometimes I’m leaving the office at 2am because I have work I need to finish before I get on a 6am flight to get to Switzerland,” he told the Wall Street Journal, external.

On Friday, after just 80 days on snow in his life, he achieved his dream of racing at the Milan-Cortina Winter Paralympics.

Aided by a 12-month grant from the International Paralympic Committee’s Sport for Mobility programme, he has joined athletes from El Salvador, Montenegro, North Macedonia and Portugal in making their nations’ debut at the Games.

His result, a disqualification on his second run of the standing giant slalom, is secondary to his story.

“Haiti has a skier. That’s the most beautiful sentence I have heard in a long time,” he said.

“On the first run I proved that Haiti can ski competitively. Before the race, I had won.

“I get to say that there is hope, I get to tell the Haitian youth that if I can do this today with one leg, they can do anything.

“I’ve gone from the earthquake rubble to the top of the Dolomites with the very best skiers in the world.

“Anything is possible. I get to show young Haitians that all is not lost.”

Adicoff, from Sun Valley, Idaho, has been skiing since childhood – dabbling in both alpine and Nordic skiing before alpine was deemed too dangerous.

He competed against sighted rivals at junior level. After being selected for the US Para-Nordic team in 2013, he went to the 2014 Games in Sochi while still a high school student.

A first Paralympic medal came four years later in Pyeongchang when he finished second behind Canadian Paralympic legend Brian McKeever in the 10km classic event, but he retired after the Games before returning for the 2022 Beijing Games.

Despite high hopes of gold, Adicoff achieved two more individual silvers behind McKeever before anchoring the US team to relay gold for his first Paralympic title.

But it left Adicoff wanting more and with the retirement of 16-time Paralympic champion McKeever the division was wide open.

The American seized his chance to dominate, with World Cup and World Championship success ahead of the Games.

Unlike at Beijing, where supporters did not travel because of the pandemic, athletes at these Games have benefited from being able to be watched by friends and family and Adicoff’s entourage have been enjoying the experience.

Whether they are waving giant faces of Adicoff and his guides Reid Goble and Peter Wolter or wearing hats with his name on it, their presence has been felt at the Tesero Cross-Country Centre

Adicoff, who has another medal chance in Sunday’s 20km event and is also set to go in Saturday’s 4×2.5km mixed relay, may not be able to fully see them while he competes, but he has taken it all in and joined in the post-race celebrations.

“To have so many people that came out and supported us and are going to continue to support us throughout the week. It’s so nice having friends and family here,” he said.

“You see all those white hats up there? It’s so fun to have.

“I love skiing, love ski racing, so it makes finding the motivation kind of easy.”

Near the top of the Grimsel Pass in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland, a small crowd had gathered to take photographs. We were surrounded by bulky mountains and rippling glaciers, but all eyes were focused on a silvery granite chalet with apple-red shutters, its foundations deep in snow.

It was early February and, one after another, we posed in front of it as if standing beside a celebrity. Which in a way we were, because the proud building was the Grimsel Hospiz, the country’s oldest recorded mountain inn and a place that predates Westminster Abbey.

First documented in 1142 and originally built as a simple hostel – either by the Order of Saint Lazarus or the Augustinian monastery of Interlaken, no one is quite sure – today’s much-modernised Grimsel Hospiz is marooned on a spur of sheer rock and snow at 2,000 metres (6,562 ft). Over the centuries it has been inhabited by monks, used by shepherds, needy travellers and soldiers, ravaged by fire and buried by an avalanche. The mountains reach up, but it is surrounded on three sides by plunging ravines and the frozen Grimselsee, which thaws to turquoise ice floes in spring. The scenery is stupendous.

My visit began on a PostBus, the yellow stagecoaches that reach the parts of Switzerland that the railways can’t. I was south-east of the village of Meiringen, having taken a train to Innertkirchen Kraftwerk, a station built 100 years ago to service the hydroelectric power plants hidden deep in the mountains. The towering stone pines, the tumbling cliffs, the dripping snow, the sky only peeking through – it might have been the landscape of JRR Tolkien’s Middle-earth.

As the bus worked its way higher up the Aare Gorge, we saw that the road ahead was closed for winter. Instead, we were dropped at a high-security shutter leading to an underground hydropower station operated by Kraftwerke Oberhasli AG. The renewable energy plant opens for public tours and, moments later, a minibus appeared from behind the steel door to take us deeper into the mountains. We hopped on board.

A road blasted into the granite, dark and narrow, then crept through a maze of tunnels, ending four miles (6.4km) later at a tiny cable car station that opened to daylight. We looked up at the Grimselsee reservoir and Spitallamm Dam, a 113 metre-tall arch of stone above which we were soon to soar. For a century, the high-altitude lake has stored glacier meltwater to generate green electricity. Now, for visitors like me, it forms part of Grimselwelt, a Swiss Alpine tourist region, serving as a backdrop to a great tract of lonely winter wilderness.

The picture of the Grimsel Hospiz developed as we rose on the cable car, like a photo going from faded to sharp. The uninhabited valleys beyond led to the Unteraargletscher, an eight-mile leviathan of ice and the Alps’ fifth-largest glacier. From the cable car, I made out a group of horned ibex as they clambered with ease over the col.

It was the Celts, then Romans, who first used the Grimsel Pass, but it has been an important locus in Alpine culture for centuries: a trade route between Berne and Upper Valais in the middle ages, a strategic camp for raids and war campaigns between Swiss, French, German and Austrian armies, a setting for pioneering glacier research. All these aspects combine in a single story at the Grimsel Hospiz.

What lends the mountain inn so much credibility today is its environmental outlook. Located within the Unesco World Heritage Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch region, the 28-room hotel is in the midst of a critical wildlife habitat, meaning all winter sports are banned. Ski gear is prohibited by the hotel’s management and it cannot be transported on the cable car. The Alps have always been the preserve of travellers keen on activities that take serious effort, but here is an antidote to every other winter destination, a rare meditative place where doing nothing is the only thing to do.

The only activity on offer is snowshoeing and even that is restricted to a 500-metre loop around the inn’s tower-like granite porches and wooden and copper-roofed chapel. It might be “the shortest winter trail in Switzerland”, as manager Markus Meier put it, but it still took me an hour as I kept stopping to take photos.

Inside is a fantasy mountain inn, the result of sensitive restorations: a huge wooden door creaks open and you step into corridors leading to cosy double rooms, intimate lounges, fireplaces and a restaurant where dinner is accompanied by one of 250 bottles from one of Europe’s highest-altitude wine cellars. Back in 1932, the guesthouse caused a sensation as the continent’s first electrically heated hotel. Now, the building is sustainably powered by clean energy and waste heat from the hydroelectric plant below.

As evening fell, it was time for the inn’s only other activity: staring at the flaring sunset and night sky from its outdoor wooden barrel sauna and hot tub. The air was bracingly cold, the constellations appeared and it was just me, the burbling water and the mountains stretching away into darkness. Forget any thoughts of Alpine heroes such as George Mallory or Edward Whymper. That night, down to my cossie in -10C (14F), tiptoeing across the snow in a pair of felt slippers and dwarfed by mountains, I was the bravest man in the Alps.

At nearly 2,000 metres, dinner is another event. The four-course menu produced by Slovakian chef Roman Crkon is hardly the stuff of traditional refuges. I’ve had my share of mountain meals, but I’ve never had veal sweetbreads, scallops, chicken with truffle cream and a cheese board at high altitude. In 1544, a local chronicler wrote that the Grimsel Hospiz was all about “good wine, brought by pack animals across the mountains”. Looking at the card games and excessive drinking around me, little had changed.

Later, just before bed, I slipped outside to gaze again at the stars. It was pine needle-drop quiet. Though I was separated from some of Switzerland’s most popular resort towns by only a few miles as the eagle flies, I felt engulfed by the Alps in their entirety. Tomorrow, another day with nothing to do beyond the confines of the inn awaited. But in a landscape like this, I was thrilled to have fallen off the map, out of time, into winter’s grasp.

The trip was provided by Jungfrau Region and Historic Alpine Hotel Grimsel Hospiz (Wednesday to Sunday only; grimselwelt.ch). Rooms from £165pp a night, including breakfast, afternoon tea, hot tub and wooden barrel sauna. A four-course dinner costs £85. Return bus, tunnel and cable car transfers cost £70

Fans tuning into the Winter Paralympics will have spotted figure skating missing from the programme at Milan-Cortina despite it being one of the most popular sports at the Olympics.

There are just six sports at the Games: Para-Alpine skiing, Para-biathlon, Para-cross-country skiing, Para-ice hockey, wheelchair curling and Para-snowboard.

For skating to be included in the Winter Paralympics, the International Skating Union (ISU) needs to become recognised by the International Paralympic Committee (IPC).

The IPC would also need to approve a range of conditions affecting how the sport is run – including venues, costs and deciding classification categories for competing athletes.

But there are growing calls from skaters for the sport to be included and the IPC says it is keen to expand the Paralympic programme.

No new sports have been added since Para-snowboard in 2014.

Speaking before Milan-Cortina, IPC chief Andrew Parsons said: “We have not reached the limit as per our agreement with the IOC (International Olympic Committee) in terms of the number of athletes in sports. But it is not only about the limit, it is about obviously the quality of the sport at an international level.”

“For example, we don’t have skating sports, we don’t have short course, we don’t have figure skating, because these sports are not on an international level,” he added.

The blanket ban imposed on Russian and Belarusian athletes in 2022 was reduced to a partial ban in 2023, allowing athletes from the two nations to compete as neutrals at the 2024 Paris Paralympics.

In September 2025, the IPC lifted that ban entirely but the four individual governing bodies in charge of the six sports contested at the Winter Paralympics decided to keep their bans in place.

In December, Russia and Belarus won an appeal against FIS – the governing body for skiing and snowboarding – at the Court of Arbitration for Sport (Cas), permitting their athletes in those sports to compete and accumulate ranking points.

As a result, 10 athletes were then awarded bipartite commission invitations to compete at the Winter Paralympics.

Bipartite commission invites are granted to individual athletes, rather than their international federation, and allow the participation of top athletes “who may not have had the opportunity to qualify through other methods due to extraordinary circumstances”, among other factors.

Ukraine’s president Volodymyr Zelensky called the decision “awful” while the country’s sports minister Matvii Bidnyi said it was “both disappointing and outrageous”.

“The general assembly lifted the suspension in September so we need to respect the democracy of our movement. The majority voted that way, so we need to implement their decision,” said Parsons.

“But I fully understand the disappointment, I understand the different opinions, and especially [those] coming from Ukraine.”

Asked what he would say to Ukrainian athletes, he said: “My message to them is that the best way to show the strength of Ukraine is on the field of play, by winning medals and by making sure their national anthem is played as many times as possible on Italian soil.”

In addition to Ukraine, teams from the Czech Republic, Estonia, Finland, Latvia, Lithuania and Poland are boycotting Friday’s opening ceremony in Verona in protest against the decision.

Officials from other nations, including the British government, will not attend for the same reason.

The Great Britain team will also not go to the Verona ceremony, but for logistical reasons – a decision that was made some time ago.

Many of the 25-strong British squad – including flagbearers Menna Fitzpatrick and Scott Meenagh – are in competitive action on Saturday morning, several hours’ drive from Verona.

Athletes from Belarus are expected to be in attendance at the opening ceremony, but at the time of BBC Sport’s interview with Parsons, no Russians were due to attend.

“Different countries, National Paralympic Committees, governments, athletes, they have been able to express their views freely, and that’s what we stand for as a democratic organisation,” said Parsons.

“We would like the focus to be more on sport rather than politics and this is what we are trying to do.”