trips

When Sebastian Dollinger and his colleagues first drove into Yosemite National Park, they felt like they were entering the world at its finest — a prehistoric beauty of hulking rocks with every waterfall flowing in the valley.

It reminded Dollinger, who lives in Sweden, of the Swiss Alps in summer.

The moment didn’t last long.

As the group, in the park in early May for a fashion shoot for California luxury brand Robert Talbott, neared Mirror Lake in Yosemite Valley, Dollinger’s party felt like it had been overtaken by a massive swarm of bees as droves of other tourists buzzed around them, he said.

A tourist stands in front of an overlook near Yosemite Valley during a sunrise in mid-June in Yosemite National Park.

Tourists wait at the Yosemite Falls bus stop.

“I could have taken up climbing and gone up El Capitan just to escape the people,” Dollinger said, referencing Yosemite’s famous rock wall, “but I’m just a creative director.”

This summer, Yosemite is seeing a significant uptick in visitation, driven by the park’s internationally known splendor, its popularity on social media and a lack of its politicized reservation system. As droves of tourists flock to Yosemite, it raises the question: Is it still possible to have a fun time there despite the crowds?

Hopefully, yes, but that answer comes with a few heavy asterisks. Park-goers and local business owners say it’s crucial for those venturing into Yosemite this summer to plan their excursions outside peak times to avoid the worst of the crowds, and even then, pack their patience. The best-laid plans can still result in visitors facing significant lines at the park’s gate and restaurants, crowded hiking trails and a relentless search for parking.

By the end of June, Yosemite had seen at least 183,000 more visitors than last year, according to preliminary park visitor data. Just over 2 million people visited the park by the end of June, a 10% increase compared with last year’s visitation data.

Crowds pose for photos on the Mist Trail.

The increase in visitors is, in part, because the National Park Service is not using a timed-entry reservation system this year.

The National Park Service announced in February — after the agency under the Biden administration studied extensively how to best implement a reservation system — that officials would instead use “targeted management.” This has included sending congestion alerts to visitors’ mobile phones and encouraging visitors to venture outside the valley, as it represents only a fraction of its almost 1,200 square miles of parkland.

When asked how the agency planned to address overcrowding in Yosemite this summer, a National Park Service spokesperson who declined to give their name to The Times said in an emailed statement that temporary traffic delays can occur during peak times but aren’t evidence of “operational failure.”

“They reflect the reality of managing one of the nation’s most visited national parks while keeping visitors safe and protecting park resources,” the spokesperson said. “Claims of widespread ‘overcrowding’ are not an accurate characterization of current park operations. Visitors have benefitted [sic] from expanded access for months now, and we are seeing operational efficiency from managing traffic only when and where necessary, rather than blanketing the park with restrictions for entire seasons.”

Dozens of tourists hike their way up the Mist Trail in mid-June, one of the more popular trails in Yosemite National Park.

Visitors like Dollinger say this new approach is not working.

“After we hiked for about three hours, we met a couple from Japan, and when I talked to them they were almost in tears,” said Dollinger, who has visited other state and national parks in California. “They saved for five years to do this trip, flew to San Francisco from Tokyo, stayed in San Francisco and hired a car, and went to the park for five days, which I can only describe as hell.”

Not every Yosemite visitor that The Times spoke to for this story had as bad of a time as Dollinger, but no one disputed crowds being an issue.

Chidumebi Ajaero, who lives in L.A., said he was “very concerned” when he and his friends left for their trip in mid-April over how crowded the park would be.

It was Ajaero’s first time to visit Yosemite after moving to California about 2½ years ago from Houston. He has been to other national parks and said he knows they can get “quite chaotic” when busy.

Tents set up in Upper Pines Campground on a June weekend in Yosemite National Park.

Ajaero and his friends arrived in Yosemite on a Friday afternoon and were surprised to find there was no line to enter the Big Oak Flat entrance.

They set their campsite up at Upper Pines, a campground in the valley, and headed out early on the Mist Trail, which takes hikers to Vernal and Nevada falls via its large stone steps. There were a considerable amount of people on the trail with them, he said.

“It’s not until you get to the waterfall itself and you have the steps, and everybody is taking pictures,” Ajaero said. “There’s actually a line to move up. You’re just waiting for your turn to step up” to capture the waterfall.

Ajaero said he’s glad he went before Memorial Day, when visitation started to increase more significantly.

But because of how curated Yosemite Valley is, with a grocery store, souvenir shops and restaurants, Ajaero said it felt more like an amusement park than his trips to Joshua Tree National Park, where visitors are far more on their own.

Hikers walk on a boardwalk designed to prevent erosion in sensitive meadows.

“I didn’t love it as much as the other because of the commercialized feeling of it, and just the fact it never felt you were alone in Yosemite,” he said. “I think there’s too much going on.”

How developed Yosemite should be for its visitors has been a debate since the park’s existence.

Michael W. Childers, author of “The Mountains Are Calling: Tourists and the Unmaking of Yosemite National Park” (Nebraska), said people often use the metaphor of not wanting to turn the park into Disneyland, but a more apt comparison is how closely Yosemite resembles a resort.

Concessionaires have been in Yosemite since its beginnings, as the federal government didn’t have the money to construct its own amenities in the 1850s, he said. Yosemite Hospitality, a subsidiary of hospitality giant Aramark, manages much of Yosemite’s lodging, dining and activities (including the park’s Starbucks inside the valley).

Childers, an associate professor of history at Colorado State University, said his concern is that, since the late 1970s, conservative intellectuals have pushed to privatize the park even further.

He said the chaos being created by the Trump administration through cutting park staff and ending the reservation system is “very intentional” in the quest to argue the only way to manage the park is to privatize Yosemite.

“If you privatize the entirety of a national park, that means that your only one measuring stick is profit, and arguably, national parks are not solely designed for profit,” said Childers, an environmental historian of the American West. “They’re for experience. They’re for democracy. They’re for preservation of natural resources.”

Vehicles stop to pay the fee at the El Portal entrance gate.

Vehicles line the road near El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

One of park officials’ most significant management challenges started when tourists began entering Yosemite by automobile. Since 1913, people could enter in a personal vehicle, but visitation numbers remained reasonable until 1926 when the “All Year Highway,” a segment of the 140 Highway, opened.

This new thoroughfare created an easy and direct route to reach the park by car that avoided steep mountain roads, according to park history. The road’s opening resulted in a near doubling of total cars visiting the park in just one year, park staff said in an Instagram post.

“The summer of 1927 has clearly demonstrated that parking is one of the most urgent, menacing problems of the entire Yosemite Valley,” said Don Tresidder, president of the Yosemite Park & Curry Co., that year, according to the park.

And has thus remained for 100 years.

The first attempt in recent years to get a handle on car traffic was the reservation system, implemented initially to spread guests out during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 but rolled out in 2021, 2022 and 2024 as the park service tested how to best employ it to cut down on traffic and help more visitors enjoy the park.

“Over the past decade, many parks have seen significant increases in visitation and crowding in popular areas, especially during peak seasons,” the agency wrote in 2024 as it sought public comments on park management. “In some parks, the level of demand is exceeding the capacity for which infrastructure was designed or is outpacing the National Park Service’s ability to sustainably support visitation.”

The park service planned to use visitor feedback and research to guide how reservations would be rolled out in 2025. Environmental and park advocates argued for the reservation system, saying that it not only protected the wildlife and land, but also that it was popular among guests.

But when Trump started his second term in office, not only did park management strategy change, so did the way the federal government viewed the park service. Hundreds of park workers were laid off, although some got their jobs back. Others took buyouts, and overall there was a 24% decline in permanent workers, according to the National Parks Conservation Assn.

One of the reservation system’s biggest critics is Rep. Tom McClintock (R-Elk Grove), who said the system was decimating the economies of local gateway communities, the term used for the small mountain towns around Yosemite.

Parking lots are filled to capacity during peak hours, creating traffic congestion in Yosemite National Park.

“This is not to say that crowding in the valley hasn’t been a big problem, but the solution is better management and more capacity, not restricting access,” McClintock said on the House floor in June, noting the park had more parking, rooms and campsites before the 1997 flood destroyed infrastructure that he said wasn’t replaced.

Under the timed-entry system, visitors could still enter the park without a reservation if they arrived early — before 6 a.m. in 2021 and 2022 and 5 a.m. in 2024 — or after 4 p.m., and would be required to pay an entry fee for a three-day pass allowing them to reenter outside of peak hours.

But entering the park early or late in the day still wasn’t doable for everyone, including Ronny Shields, a father of two children from Ventura.

Shields, a lifelong Southern California resident, struggled to book a reservation when Yosemite implemented the system until he finally snagged one in 2024. His family had a great time and was eager to return.

In early June, Shields, his wife and kids, ages 4 and 7, made the trek back to Yosemite, staying outside the park at Tenaya at Yosemite in Fish Camp. Shields had researched and found information online suggesting the nearby southern entrance was less crowded.

His family arrived on a Saturday afternoon and entered the park without a wait. They found the valley was quieter than they’d ever seen it as people left.

Tourists stand in a meadow with a perfect view of Yosemite Falls.

For the rest of their trip, they entered the park before 8 a.m. or after 3 p.m., except for one day when they entered later in the morning and waited 40 minutes to enter. The other times, they found no wait.

Once inside the park before 8 a.m., their first stop was the Bridalveil Fall Trail, a short trek that takes visitors right to the base of the thundering cascade. When Shields and his family left the trail about 9:30 a.m., they noticed other guests couldn’t find parking.

They faced the same problem after they went to get food and then tried to park near the Lower Yosemite Falls trailhead. After 20 minutes, they found a spot — and joined the masses.

The trail “doesn’t feel like a hike — it feels like you’re in a crowded mall, but I think that’s the nature of the beast because it’s very short and very scenic,” Shields said.

Comparing his two visits to Yosemite, Shields said he preferred not having to deal with the reservation system, but that came with some caveats. He noticed far more visitors, although he’d expected even more. He saw more trash, several guests going off trail and trampling plant life, and far fewer park rangers to tell them to stop.

He said he didn’t see any park staff in the outdoor areas, and instead, he and his wife made sure to take their kids into the park’s buildings so they could speak to the rangers.

Tourists swim and play in the Merced River in Yosemite National Park.

“It’s nice for the kids to be able to ask questions and learn from people that love it,” Shields said. “Even I learned something.”

Jennifer Liu, a Moreno Valley resident, was at the park the same time frame as the Shields family and was able to mostly avoid the crowds on her backpacking trip through the park’s backcountry.

Liu meandered through the park using a few different trails, including the Sunrise Lakes route, to reach her ultimate destination: Half Dome on her birthday. She left her backcountry campsite about 4:30 a.m. to reach Half Dome by 6 a.m., catching the sunrise at 8,800-feet elevation from the granite monolith.

“I got lucky — the clouds cleared out and there was a nice sunrise,” she said.

Not in a hurry, Liu stayed at the top for four hours. Her fellow hikers sang her happy birthday, and she witnessed a couple get engaged.

Sunset over the Half Dome lookout in Yosemite National Park.

“By 10, when I headed back down, that’s when the crowd was starting to pick up,” Liu said, adding that she was grateful there was still space to navigate the dome’s cable system without being rushed by others.

As a means of crowd control, the National Park Service has attempted to funnel people out of the valley, where the majority of tourists spend their time and into its less frequented locations.

Park officials have tried to rebrand Hetch Hetchy, a massive reservoir surrounded by glacier-carved rock walls, by claiming that “many have compared Hetch Hetchy’s grandeur to the more well-known Yosemite Valley,” according to a recent update on the park’s website. (Previous versions of the Hetch Hetchy page made no such claim, according to archived versions of the website viewed through the Internet Archive.)

The park service doesn’t cite a source for such claims. California naturalist John Muir compared the two valleys’ beauties, but that was before Hetch Hetchy Valley was transformed by the O’Shaughnessy Dam into a massive reservoir.

“John Muir lost the fight over Hetch Hetchy, and the dam was built. And people who live in San Francisco today drink the water of Hetch Hetchy,” historian William Cronon said in the Ken Burns national parks documentary. “Muir died feeling that he’d been defeated by that, and that was a great tragedy at the end of his life.”

Still, Hetch Hetchy has long been whispered among Yosemite regulars as a place to find a little quiet.

That’s changed too.

An empty road under El Capitan in Yosemite Valley National Park.

“We used to have these secret spots we could tell people about,” said Elisabeth Barton, owner of Yosemite Basecamp in Groveland, which offers lodging, trips by local outfitters, gear and more. “‘Go to Hetch Hetchy,’ you’d say quietly and look over your shoulder. ‘Go to this waterfall’ or ‘Do this hike.’ … One of the things we’re noticing is, very quickly on a weekend, [the park] is sending out that alert that Hetch Hetchy is full or that Hetch Hetchy has ‘extreme visitation.’ It’s weird.”

Barton, whose company runs a visitor center in downtown Groveland, said there’s not much she and her team can recommend for people coming Thursday through Sunday into the park. It will be crowded regardless.

On a recent Saturday, Barton met a hiker who was devastated he couldn’t easily enter the valley without dealing with crowds. Barton let him in on a less popular trip that involved a great swimming hole, fish tacos at Whoa Nellie Deli, an adventure around Mono Lake and a drive through a stunning mountain pass. She recommended that he take a long way to reenter the park, enabling him to see the valley at a time he’d miss the crowds.

He called her a week later and told her to never recommend that to anyone ever again. He’d had a great day until he tried to reenter the park and instead waited four hours at the Tioga Pass in a line that stretched for miles. “You’re right, it was beautiful,” he told her, “but to what end?”

“I just wasn’t prepared for that,” Barton said. “It just broke me.”

Even sacred sites — with signage directing visitors away from the area — have been trampled by crowds.

The American Indian Council of Mariposa County, also known as the Southern Sierra Miwuk Nation, fought for decades to establish Wahhoga Village, which is an ancient village site and the last place that Indigenous people lived in Yosemite Valley before being driven out by the National Park Service.

Today, Wahhoga Village includes a traditional roundhouse, traditional cedar bark houses known as umachas and the only cabin that the park service didn’t burn when it evicted the remaining families from the site in 1969.

Wahhoga is not listed on Yosemite maps and is not intended to be used by those who aren’t either authorized or invited by the council to be there, said Deborah Tucker, a council member whose father advocated for years for Wahhoga.

But, Tucker said, in recent weeks, tourists have been found picnicking in the site. Hikers were tromping right through the middle of the village, led by a user-generated route on a popular outdoors adventure app, she said.

And while there, someone peed all over the village’s grinding stones, which are used for processing acorns into flour, along with other foods, said Tucker, whose father is Paiute and Shoshone and her mother was Choinumni, a branch of Yokut, tribes indigenous to the region.

Tourist beat the heat and float on tubes in a river in Yosemite National Park.

Under the current administration, “it’s a free-for-all,” Tucker said. “You can come up there and do what you want, park where you want and you’re disrupting not just sacred sites but other park sites that the park service has [established],” leading to littering and other pollution, noise that harms the birds and speeding cars that threaten the safety of bears and other wildlife.

Tucker said because the current administration seems fixated on money over conservation, she hopes that when people visit the park this summer, they will at least hold themselves accountable, showing respect for the land and its inhabitants.

“Clean up after yourself, maybe clean up after one another, and don’t take anything home with you that you didn’t bring,” Tucker said when asked what she’d say to the park’s visitors. “Enjoy that experience, and [you’re] welcome to come back again.”

THE school summer holidays are upon us, with six weeks to fill to entertain the kids.

If you’re looking for fun for the whole family without breaking the bank then this bumper list is for you – we’ve scoured the country for some of the best cheap and free attractions.

Summer of Play, Various Locations – from £9

The National Trust brings back its Summer of Play programme running from July to September across the country.

The events on the schedule are free but admission fees are around £10 and under.

At Arlington Court in Devon, find activities such as archery, giant slingshots, and a water play zone – great for keeping everyone cool in a heatwave.

Gibside near Tyne & Wear is packed with experiences such as racket sports, axe throwing, and classic games like a bean bag toss.

Pokémon fans will also delight in recognising their favourite character in trails across different National Trust sites.

Expect to get involved with trading card games and collect Mega Evolution stickers.

To find a site near you visit the National Trust’s Summer of Play website. 

Free entry but admission fees into National Trust sites apply

National Racehorse Week, Various Locations – free

From 22 to 31 August during National Racehorse Week, families have a chance to grab a free ticket for over 85 behind-the-scenes events across the country.

Choose between meeting racehorses or exploring training yards to learn more about a side of British racing that is often overlooked.

To find an event near you visit the National Racehorse Week website. 

Free tickets available on the National Racehorse Week website

North of England

Starry Nights in Lake District, Cumbria – free

The Lake District in Cumbria is home to many low-light Dark Sky Discovery Sites making it the perfect place to go on a stargazing trail.

Grab your camping gear and find budget-friendly campsites for £15-£17 on pitchup.com.

Some favourites includes North Lakes Campsite in Deanscales, Blaithwaite House in Wigton, and Cardewless in Carlisle.

Find the most isolated lake of Lake District at Ennerdale Water and venture east for the darkest skies in Cumbria. Look out for free stargazing events a few times a year. 

For those looking for a nighttime walk, head to St Bees Beach on the west coast when the tide is out.

Sitting above the Bassenthwaite Lake, Whinlatter Forest offers lucky stargazers a chance to spot the Milky Way. 

Free but campsite charges apply

National Railway Museum, York – free

The National Railway Museum in York is perfect for train fanatics.

Visit the Great Hall for the gold leaf stripes of Duchess of Hamilton, the Japanese high-speed rail nicknamed ‘bullet train’ or ‘Mallard’, the world’s fastest steam locomotive. 

For something extra special, check out Wonderlab:The Bramall Gallery for an interactive experience to test your engineering skills.

Free Entry. Wonderlab: The Bramall Gallery day passes start from £8.60.

Mere Sands Wood, Lancashire – free

Spot a variety of butterflies fluttering around at Mere Sands Wood in Lancashire on a guided walk through the reserve. 

Perfect for all members of the family, go on an easy two-hour walk and stop by different sites to find a range of beautiful butterflies and insects.

Alternatively if butterflies aren’t for you, go on the Tomato Soup at the Cafe Loop which is a 1.3 mile walking trail that ends with a bowl of soup.

Experiences are free but adults pay £6 for the Butterfly Walk

Manchester Museum, Manchester – free 

Manchester Museum is a great way to take the family out for a day and learn about what makes us human and how we connect with nature. 

Don’t forget to say hi to the giant T.rex, Stan, explore the lives of ancient Egyptians or marvel at archaeological objects.

This summer, discover the world of bugs from 21 July to 28 August in Bugtastic!

Take part in producing insect prints, designing comics starring superbugs, and make bug-like costumes.

Free entry although booking is advised for the Exhibition Hall. 

South and West of England

WhizzFizz 2026, Buckinghamshire – free

From 27 July to 1 August, WhizzFizz is holding a free summer festival across Buckinhamshire in Aylesbury, Chesham, and High Wycombe. 

The schedule includes an interactive board games show, collage workshops and poetry workshops for children. 

Sessions are free but participating kids are expected to be registered for the events. Adults are required to stay but don’t need a ticket. 

Free admission

Boating in Regent’s Park, London – from £3.40

Hop on a boat from now to September in Regents Park and take in the beautiful surroundings. 

A 30-minute boat journey ranges from free for toddlers to £6.50 for adults during off-peak hours.

Alternatively, the Children’s Boating Pond is £5.20 for a 20 minute session. 

Prices start from £3.40. Off peak hours are 11am-1pm on weekdays and 10am-noon on the weekends.

British Museum, London – free

The British Museum is at the heart of Central London with a large worldwide collection dating back two million years and the best part is that general admission is free.

This summer celebrate the 25th anniversary of John Constable’s birth with a free exhibition.

Explore a collection of Constable’s paintings where he depicted British landscapes from fields in East Anglia to the clouds of Hampstead Heath.

Free Admission

Shakespeare at the Globe Theatre, London – from £10

Experience 400 years of history in London’s original theatre district and transport yourself back into the time of Shakespeare. 

Enjoy classics such as Much Ado About Nothing, A Midsummer Night’s Dream and Julius Caesar this summer for £10 if you grab a standing ticket. 

Prices start from £10

Mudchute Park and Farm, London – free

Families with animal lovers in the group will delight in this free family farm on the Isle of Dogs. 

Find over 100 animals in the 32 acre farm including goats, pigs, and even llamas.

Before leaving, stop by the Mudchute Kitchen Cafe for delicious home-cooked food, cakes and tea. 

Free Admission

Smithsonian Starstruck at the Science Museum, London – free

Experience this free virtual reality experience at the Science Museum in London.

Visitors embark on a cosmic journey discovering galaxies, constellations and watch volcanoes on an exoplanet erupt into glitter.  

Free Admission

Summer in the Square, London – free

Taking place in Portman Square Garden in Marylebone from 7th – 12th July, this free festival brings families together with a range of activities. 

Choose from Wimbledon open air screenings, wellbeing sessions, and opportunities to get creative with watercolour sessions.

Kids can get involved with workshops hosted by Marylebone Youth Theatre, opt for Fairytales in Oz or The Tempest Tale. 

Free Admission

Uber Boat Audio Guide, London – £2.50

Board on to an Uber Boat and cruise down the Thames with a funny and educational twist.

For £2.50, learn history, TV and cinema facts that you can later impress friends and family with. 

£2.50 for audio guides

Lady Vale Walk, Bodmin – free

Take the family out for a chance to spot some of their favourite characters from The Gruffalo. 

Follow the signs for the Lady Vale Walk in Cardinham Woods near Bodmin to hunt for the Gruffalo characters along the path.

Don’t forget to bring the camera and take a picture next to the sculptures as you venture deeper into the forest. 

Free admission

Brighton Beach and Pier – £1

Brighton Beach is one of England’s top beach destinations with plenty of activities for the whole family. 

The Brighton Palace Pier is a £1 admission fee and boasts its own helter skelter for £3.

Other attractions include a soft-play area and Brighton’s largest arcade with classic games such as penny pushers and air hockey. 

Take a ride on the world’s oldest operating railway, Volk’s Electric Railway, where an adult return fare is £7 and a children return is £4.40.

Visit the Fishing Museum for free and discover the history of Brighton’s fishing village.    

Prices start from free to £7

Song of the Sea Cave, Cornwall – free 

Instead of splashing out for a holiday away, visit this hidden gem for a beach holiday.

Jump into this natural tidal pool at Nanjizal Beach in St Levan, Cronwall and cool off from the hot summer.

Nicknamed “Song of the Sea Cave”, this low tide pool will make you feel as though you’ve escaped to a warmer destination surrounded by clear waters.

Dip into the mermaid pool and watch the light glimmering through the narrow arch. 

Free admission

Central and East England

Silverstone Museum, Towcester – free 

This summer until 31 August, Silverstone Museum in Towcester is offering Kids Go and Eat Free for children ages 15 and under.

Explore immersive exhibits, iconic cars and learn about racers that have shaped the history of motor sports.

Highlights include a Mixed and Virtual Reality behind the story of Alberto Ascari, racing Scaletric cards on a 25-meter long track and a collection of championship winning vehicles. 

Prices start from free to £24 for adults when booking at least 1 day in advance.

Norwich Theatre Family Festival, Norwich – free

On 4 August, Norwich Theatre brings a dramatic schedule for the whole family with free workshops and interactive experiences. 

Those interested in crafts and set design should check out workshops in puppet-making and set-art.

For the thespians and vocalists in the group, there are storytelling workshops and community singalongs.

All workshops apart from Storytelling and Sensory Stories don’t require a booking and are available to drop in. 

Free admission but Storytelling and Sensory Stories workshops require booking. 

Cambridge University’s Botanic Garden, Cambridge – free

From 25 June to 1 September, adult tickets into Botanic Garden in Cambridge will be reduced as part of the Great British Summer Savings Scheme.  

Boasting different sections, the Botanic Gardens offers visitors to explore British wild plants to exotic tropical plants to beautiful roses.

On 15 July, visit the Garden’s Main Lawn for Sounds Green 2026 and enjoy swing and jazz from The Basin Street Brawlers with a standard entry ticket. 

Don’t forget to have a tea break on the terrace of The Garden Cafe when all the walking and dancing is done.

Children under 17 go free and adult admissions are £7.60.

Tudor House Museum, Worcester – free

Step back into time at the Tudor Museum in Worcester from Wednesdays to Saturdays from 10am-4pm. 

This summer, the Tudor House Museum brings a range of family activities on Thursdays to Saturdays exploring a different historical theme each week. 

Take home a family portrait at the Victorian Parlour, write top secret messages using wartime codes or design a banquet fit for royals. 

Free admission

Scotland

Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh – free

Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh offers the chance to hike up the remains of a dormant ancient volcano for free. 

Once you get to the top of this 2,000 old hillfort, enjoy the views of St Margaret’s Loch from the summit before climbing back down. 

Free Admission

Summer Family Fun, Edinburgh – free

From 29 June – 7 August, the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh is hosting Summer Family Fun on Mondays and Fridays. 

Drop in anywhere from 10am – 4pm with the family and discover weekly changing themes ranging from dinosaurs to space to ancient Egyptians for free.

Free Admission

Open Air Pool, Stonehaven, Aberdeen – free 

Jump into the UK’s only art deco, Olympic-sized lido at Stonehaven’s Open Air Pool in Aberdeen.

Now open for the summer, there is something for everyone looking to cool down from the heat.

Little ones under the age of 8 can enjoy splashing in a paddling pool (while accompanied by an adult).

If there are older kids in the group, slide down the playground of inflatables.

Catch the inflatables during the weekends from 1pm to 3pm in early and late season or all throughout the week from 3 July – 18 August. 

During the early and late season there is live music which can be enjoyed by everyone after the inflatables close. 

Day tickets start from free for under 5’s to £10.40 for adults. £1 deposit required for lockers.

Inverness Walk, Inverness – free 

If a hike up the hills at Inverness is on the itinerary, don’t forget to check out this walk around River Ness and Ness Islands. 

Explore Inverness by finding key sights of the city close to the station.

Highlights include the Inverness Cathedral designed by Alexander Ross, the Inverness Castle, and the floating Ness Islands.

On the walk, cross footbridges and spot fishermen catching salmon and birds frolicking along the river.

Free Admission

Northern Ireland

Street Art, Belfast – free

Belfast is known for its colourful streets and going on a Belfast Street Art Walking Tour may be the perfect way to learn how this creative community became so famous.

Starting from the Duke of York, go on a 2 hour walk and discover the artists who have transformed the vibrant walls of the Cathedral Quarter for £10.80.

Alternatively, download the Street Arts Cities app on your phone and go on a self-guided tour at your own pace for free. 

Prices start from free – £10.80

Ulster Museum, Belfast – free

Visit Belfast’s Botanic Gardens and drop into free workshops where kids can discover their inner fashionista or book into object handling sessions.

The interactive center offers ways to connect with creativity or learn about artefacts from different civilisations and natural wonders. 

Free Admission

17th Century Walls, Londonderry – free 

Marvel at the only walled city of Derry built in 1613-1618 and learn about the history and heritage it holds. 

Check out the impressive collection of 7 gates and cannons which have been carefully looked after and restored.

Free Admission

The Giant’s Lair, Slieve Gullion Adventure Playpark – free

Transport your little ones to the land of giants, fairies, and pixies with this free fairytale trail at Slieve Gullion Forest Park in County Armagh.

Walk the same path of mischievous Flynn the fairy and be careful not to wake the sleeping giant, Slieve Gullion.

Find fairy houses, sip on dandelion tea at the Giant’s table, pass the ladybird house and catch a glimpse of the naughty witch, Calliagh Berra. 

Free Admission

Wales

Caerphilly Cheese Festival, Caerphilly, Wales – free

Making a return, the Caerphilly Cheese Festival takes place on the 29th and 30th August at Caerphilly Town Centre and is free to attend. 

Explore the packed schedule consisting of food, drink and craft stalls, funfair attractions, street and music entertainers.

Don’t forget to gorge on cheese while you are there.

Free Admission

Cardiff Bay Barrage, Cardiff – free

For something free, families can choose to go on a stroll or an easy bike ride while enjoying the views of Cardiff Bay and the Severn Estuary.

Check out other facilities such as the children’s play area, Skate Plaza and adiZone outdoor gym. 

Free Admission

Margam Country Park, Port Talbot – free 

Near Port Talbot, there are plenty of fun activities for the whole family at this park with free entry. 

Visit the Fairytale Village and step into miniature houses with whimsical themes, play a game of giant chess and draughts, or wander through the willow cathedral. 

A unique feature is the Wood Vibrations Trail where kids have the opportunity to create music and appreciate nature.

Pass the giant musical instruments made from felled trees, grab a stick and watch them play their hearts out.

Free Admission, but car park charges apply (£8.90 for cars or £5.90 if arriving 2 hours before closing)

Holyhead Festival, Newry Beach – from free

From 23 July – 26th July, celebrate culture with the community at the Holyhead festival at Newry Beach with music, street food and craft stalls. 

There is also a programme of fun such as the Family Foam Sessions (With Peppa Pig) and fairground rides, although additional charges may apply (£5 and under) 

Free Admission. Foam Party tickets start at £2 for adults and £5 for children attending Peppa Pig sessions.

Trips to waterfalls, gardens, galleries, medieval forests and prehistoric caves will make the long school holidays a lot more fun. To help families explore affordably, throughout August buses in England will be free for kids and adult fares will be capped at £3 single. Or, if you arrive somewhere by train, you could buy a PlusBus ticket, which include unlimited local bus travel. Here are six ideas for family outings by bus around England.

Great North Museum, Newcastle

Painted mummy cases, fossilised dino teeth, a stuffed wombat, a fake merman … Newcastle’s Great North Museum: Hancock is full of things kids might love – and entrance is free. Some of the impressive Roman altars are lit with colourful projections and there’s a planetarium with shows (from £2.95). This summer’s exhibition Treasure: Hidden, Lost, Found (free, until 20 Sept) involves thoughtfully curated shiny stuff, from Roman coins to Viking silver unearthed across northern England. Lots of buses stop nearby, and a bus ticket gets you 10% off in the cafe.

This summer, there’s also a Tales on the Tyne trail across Newcastle of giant Peter Rabbit sculptures and other, smaller “fluffles” to raise funds for St Oswald’s hospice. The waterfront hotel INNSiDE Newcastle, near the station, hosts a Tynetastic Peter sculpture, plus art and reading events. Its riverside restaurant has a bambino menu and under-11s get free meals until 6 September. The hotel offers family-friendly rooms (from £119 for four in August, room-only), activity hampers and a free soft-drink minibar.

In stylish Ouseburn, a short bus ride away, the Biscuit Factory gallery hosts three further fluffles, free kids’ activities, rabbit-themed food and a roof terrace. Bus 306 runs regularly all the way out to Tynemouth for an afternoon on the beach under castle-topped cliffs. Back in the city, the art deco Tyneside cinema has selected films at £5 each week and kids’ classics over the summer.

Forest fun near Hatfield, Essex

Open every day and free to enter, the National Trust’s Hatfield Forest has 400 hectares (1,000 acres) of Frisbee-ready flowering fields and shady woodland. Incongruously close to Stansted airport, the forest was once a royal hunting ground and is still home to hundreds of deer, some descended from Henry I’s original 12th-century herds. You can follow a boardwalk through twisting hornbeams, ramble across buttercup-carpeted meadows, build a den and hear yaffling woodpeckers.

Bus 509 from Bishop’s Stortford stops outside The Green Man, a short walk from the forest’s edge. Briefly follow the road signed Hatfield Forest and turn right up the path just after the bridge to find a map and gateway.

The lakeside picnic tables and alfresco cafe are a delightful mile away, past cattle-grazed pastures busy with butterflies, and 1,000-year-old trees. With no car to get back to (parking costs £9), make this a linear walk. Loop through woods to Thremhall Priory or follow the Three Forests way for 4½ miles to the village of Hatfield Broad Oak and catch bus 305 (not Sundays).

In Bishop’s Stortford itself, there’s a riverside splash pool and playgrounds near the recently revamped castle mound. South Mill arts centre has kids’ crafts for £2 and Much Hadham Forge museum has a free event on 27 August, featuring a Tudor storyteller, to celebrate 450 years since their Elizabethan murals were painted. Half-timbered Much Hadham is 20 minutes from Stortford on hourly bus 35 (not Sundays).

Cave art in Nottinghamshire

The Welbeck Estate’s walking map includes an easy-going, sculpture-dotted trail to Creswell Crags, where a bus ticket gets you free entry to the museum and 10% off in the cafe. A stroll through the limestone gorge is spectacular, past ponds and caves where prehistoric humans lived and left rock art on the walls. Bus 209 from Worksop stops every couple of hours (not Sundays) near the Dukeries garden centre and Welbeck courtyard at the start of the trail.

Welbeck has a free museum and gallery in converted outbuildings. Highlights include the pearl earring Charles I was wearing when he was beheaded and a red chalk Madonna by Michelangelo. The award-winning Harley cafe next door serves local food (kids’ soup £5, cheese on toast £6).

Half-price Harewood, West Yorkshire

Like many big country houses, Harewood usually charges adults well over £20 for a day’s worth of paintings, porcelain and landscaped gardens. But arrive on the frequent bus 36 from Leeds or Harrogate, and you get 50% off walk-up ticket prices. This gives you access to the art-filled house, the Capability Brown parkland and gardens with scented borders, waterfalls and bridges in thickets of bamboo.

For kids, there’s a wooded adventure playground with zipwire and slides, a treehouse and a willow maze. They can also borrow a nature safari bag, complete with map and compass, torch, binoculars and magnifying glass. And the summer holidays are packed with extra offers, all free with a ticket: den-building, gardening, statue-cleaning, dressing up, circus skills, and mid-August workshops by Tibetan monks.

Inside, there’s an exhibition of glamorous photos by Cecil Beaton (until 4 October). Alternatively, a 5-mile circular walk from the bus stop takes in deer, buzzards, rolling parkland and the Muddy Boots cafe. Half an hour away on the 36 bus, Leeds has the free five-storey Royal Armouries museum overlooking the dock.

Word-class art indoors and out in Norwich

Elisabeth Frink’s ostrich-like structures stalk through waterside woods. Antony Gormley’s cast iron figures stand poised on rooftops and walkways across the brutalist University of East Anglia (UEA) campus. Henry Moore’s bronze forms recline on the lawns, and angular steel beasts by Lynn Chadwick crouch under a model of Vladimir Tatlin’s tower. The free sculpture park at the Sainsbury Centre is packed with iconic names from 20th-century art and architecture and set in 140 hectares of parkland that are yours to explore, with centuries-old oaks, wild rabbits, and free family-friendly tours and trails.

Inside the Norman Foster-designed gallery (pay what you can), relaunched in 2023, the works are eclectic. You can wander from ancient Chinese tomb figures to a dynamic new installation via a work by Picasso. Kids might like the glass box you can stand in to “become a work of art” near John Davies’ hyper-realistic Bucket Man. The ambitious summer exhibitions look at the meaning of life and aspects of play. Show your bus ticket in the cafe for a 10% discount.

Bus 25 from the station or city centre runs frequently to UEA and stops close to the Sainsbury Centre. It passes the huge square keep of Norwich Castle, which reopened last year after a £27.5m renovation project. There are sound-and-light shows on the old stone walls of the Great Hall and a £2.50 twilight ticket if you visit an hour before closing time.

Wildlife watching in the Lakes

The mossy, fern-fringed waterfalls at Aira Force are 45 minutes on bus 508 from Penrith station. The route runs beside Ullswater with views across the lake to bracken-cloaked Hallin Fell. It’s one of the trips in a new book on Where to Watch Wildlife in Britain By Low-Carbon Transport, along with 100 other car-free trips to nature-rich sites across the UK.

Look out for dippers, dragonflies and red squirrels. The area offers varied and spectacular walks, such as a pushchair- and mobility scooter-friendly stroll through the woods at Pooley Bridge or a hike up Gowbarrow Fell.

Walk through sunflowers in Gower

At the westernmost tip of the Gower peninsula, Rhossili Bay is a gloriously wide sweep of sand, backed by dunes and licked with waves perfect for bodyboarding and surfing. Wild ponies graze on the southern headland, while walkers time their trip across to the serpent-like Worm’s Head promontory to not get cut off by the tide.

In summer there’s an added draw: 100,000 sunflowers. A 20-minute walk from the Worm’s Head National Trust car park, the flowers hit their peak from late July into August. Across the site there are pick-your-own fields, a trail to follow between wooden animal structures and giant swings (for the photo ops as much as the fun).
Entry to the sunflowers £4 weekdays, £4.50 weekends, rhossilisunflowers.co.uk

Fabulous forest play in Dorset

Deep in the woods at Moors Valley country park are giant ant nests and snake pits, huge hawks and spiders, all stars of Forestry England’s play trail. It wiggles for a mile through the trees with tunnels to crawl through, slides to whiz down and crocodile-shaped balancing beams. There’s also the inclusive beehive with double-width slide and quiet areas for those requiring less stimulation.

New for this year is Woodland Rhapsody, a musical play structure with gravel-filled rain makers and drums to bang, and the Timber area, which tells the story of a forester’s job, with pulleys to sort seeds, timber tangles to climb and a big wooden harvester with steering wheel and levers to operate.
Free (car parking charges apply), moors-valley.co.uk

A wine (and wildlife) hike in the Surrey Hills

Wine hikes, with scenic trails linking vineyards, are often associated with mainland Europe, but here’s a great English alternative, using the North Downs Way.

Start at Albury Vineyard (take the 32 bus from Guildford train station), where the self-guided wildlife walk through the vines passes bat and barn owl boxes, bug hotels, beehives, wildflower meadows and a pond. It’s then a seven-mile stomp to Denbies Wine Estate to board the vineyard “train”, the carriages hooked up to the back of a Land Rover. Other shorter walking loops start and end at Denbies Estate, passing artist James Tunnard’s wavy wooden seat, Radius, and up Denbies Hillside, which is alive with butterflies and wild orchids – the perfect picnic spot.
Albury Vineyard wildlife walk: free (suggested donation £10 a group to Surrey Wildlife Trust), alburyvineyard.com. Denbies vineyard train tour: £12.50 adults, £6.95 children, denbies.co.uk

Spot dolphins in the Moray Firth

About 200 bottlenose dolphins live in the waters north of Inverness, the most northerly colony in the world. They are a hardy bunch, hunting and swimming around the Moray Firth and beyond all year, but sightings of them throwing fish and leaping from the water are more frequent in the summer months.

The Scottish Dolphin Centre at Spey Bay is not only a good place to get the binoculars out (there are plenty to borrow – keep an eye out for ospreys, seals and otters, too), but also a hub of marine learning. Housed in a former 18th-century fishing station, there are tours of the old ice house, an interactive dolphin exhibition with live wildlife cameras, plus river rambles and nature-themed holiday clubs during the Scottish school summer holidays.
Free, holiday clubs £1.50-£3 per child, dolphincentre.whales.org

Celebrate David Hockney in West Yorkshire

The late David Hockney’s oil painting Salts Mill depicted the building’s Victorian facade glowing orange and the Yorkshire hillsides glinting emerald green. It was a present for Jonathan Silver, Hockney’s friend, who transformed this former textile mill into a cultural hub, and it hangs in the entrance to the building.

Upstairs there are more of Hockney’s works in the 20 Flowers for 2025 and Some Bigger Pictures exhibition, which runs until January 2027. It’s a free, inspiring space – perhaps pick up a sketch book and paints in the shop afterwards. Plus there are burgers and pizzas at Salts Diner for lunch, the Peace Museum (also inside the mill) to potter around, and a lovely walk along the canal to Bingley.
Free, saltsmill.org.uk

Visit the Quentin Blake centre in London

Revered illustrator Quentin Blake has been championing a museum of his craft for 20 years, and in June, aged 93, he opened the Quentin Blake Centre for Illustration, a permanent home for the art form in an 18th-century waterworks in Clerkenwell. Blake is most famous for his scribbly style, as seen in his illustrations for Roald Dahl’s stories, but all kinds of work is celebrated here, from comics to graphic murals. Plenty is free to wander: a library in the former Engine House, a cafe in the Boiler House, as well as the gardens.

Paid exhibitions delve into Blake’s extensive archive and spotlight contemporary illustrators. Budding artists can try out fabric painting and printmaking at the Creative Studio during the summer holidays (Wednesdays, 10.30am-12.30pm).
Exhibition: £15 adults, £6 children, under-5s free, family tickets from £23 (1 adult + 3 children), qbcentre.org.uk

Count butterflies on the Hampshire Downs

The wildlife charity Butterfly Conservation predicts it’s going to be a bumper summer, thanks in part to a massive migration of painted lady butterflies from Africa. Its Big Butterfly Count runs until 9 August – the world’s largest butterfly survey – and last year 125,000 citizen scientists each spent 15 minutes outside noting numbers of butterflies and moths.

The organisation’s Magdalen Hill Down nature reserve on a chalk hillside just outside Winchester would be a good place to count – 46 hectares of chalk grassland, wildflower meadows and woodland, which are home to butterflies such as the adonis blue, chalk hill blue and brown argus.
Free, butterfly-conservation.org

Monastic life on a Pembrokeshire island

The first monks arrived on Caldey Island off Pembrokeshire’s south coast in the sixth century. Today, the Cistercian order are as well known for their chocolate and lavender perfume-making as for their vow of nightly silence (with no unnecessary speech during the day). It’s 20 minutes by boat from Tenby to this peaceful escape, where paths wind through woodland and along cliffs to the working lighthouse, soft sands of Priory Beach and a chocolate and fudge kitchen.

This summer, there’s a new natural play area and the Monastic Story Hall, which charts the island’s history and explores monastic life, as well as highlighting the unique wildlife here, which includes red squirrels, hedgehogs, seals and Manx shearwaters.
Adults £24.95, children £12.95 (under-4s free), family (2 adults + 2 children) £64.95, caldeyislandwales.com

Watch history come to life in County Durham

Each summer, on Saturday evenings in Bishop Auckland, Boudicca battles against the Romans. Vikings invade, knights joust and a full-size steam locomotive chugs across a 7.5-acre stage as part of Kynren – An Epic Tale of England. With a 1,000-strong cast, the outdoor show whips through 2,000 years of history, and now has an equally dramatic daytime counterpart, Kynren – The Storied Lands.

The five daily shows offer a journey through time and legend, with immersive re-enactments and live-action storytelling, featuring swooping birds of prey, charging horses, ancient monsters from the deep, a Viking village and a maze-like Victorian imaginarium.
From £30 adults, £20 children, 18 July-12 September, kynren.com

A bat safari by punt in Cambridge

Bats might have their big moment at Halloween, but the best time to see them fluttering around is the height of summer, just after sunset. One of the most atmospheric ways is on a Bat Safari Punting tour along the River Cam. The trips take place every Friday and Saturday evening in summer – departure times vary depending on dusk. Run by the local wildlife trust (with 50% of ticket sales going towards its work), guides use bat detectors to listen for the clicks and squeaks from pipistrelle and Daubenton’s bats along the riverbanks of Grantchester Meadows. In late July and early August there’s a chance to see the mothers and pups in tandem flight in the night sky.
Family row for two £63, three £73, scudamores.com

Take a dip along the Thames

There has been talk of floating lidos and river swimming in London for years, and this summer a spot at Ham, in the west, became the capital’s first designated bathing water area on the Thames.

Elsewhere in London, Sea Lanes Canary Wharf opened a 50-metre six-lane pool in June, bobbing in Eden Dock and designed for swimming lengths, though over-8s who are strong swimmers are welcome. Plus, there’s a summer programme of free open-air cinema, mini golf and other fun around Canary Wharf for afterwards. For younger children, the free Royal Docks Summer Splash at Royal Victoria Dock has a paddling pool, deckchairs and sandpits.
Sea Lanes: pay-per swim £10, sealanescanarywharf.co.uk. Summer Splash: free, 24 July–16 August, royaldocks.london

Waterworld in Staffordshire

North-east of Birmingham, Cliff Lakes is part of a series of human-made lakes along the River Tame, formed from former gravel pits and sand quarries. Today, the tranquil waters are home to a host of activities: open water swimming lanes (popular with training triathletes), boating and wakeboarding, a paddleboarding school and the UK’s largest aqua park with floating assault courses. The newest challenge this summer is the X Tower, a 12-metre-tall inflatable with six slides – four with kickers to send thrill-seekers high into the air before splashdown (age 12 and over). There’s a dedicated kids park for younger water babies, while Aqua Chimp is a high ropes course suspended above the water.
£25pp (over-6s) including parking, wetsuit, aqua socks and buoyancy aid, clifflakes.co.uk

Henry Moore in London and Hertfordshire

Henry Moore and his wife, Irina, moved to rural Hertfordshire from London in 1940 after their home was damaged in the Blitz. For the next 46 years the sculptor worked at Hoglands, creating some of his best-known works. The farmhouse and outbuilding studios have been preserved as the Henry Moore Studio & Gardens, his huge works sitting, as he envisioned them, among the lawns, orchards and woodlands. This year, the Sheep Field Barn reopened as a gallery with hands-on spaces for messy monoprinting sessions and collaborative sculpture workshops.

Kew Gardens in London is having its own Moore moment, displaying 30 of his sculptures for Henry Moore: Monumental Nature (until 31 January 2027), with a family trail including prompts for sketching and games.
Henry Moore Studio & Gardens: £23 adults, £11 children, under-5s free, family tickets from £38, henry-moore.org. Kew Gardens: £24 adults, £2 children, under-4s free, kew.org

See osprey fledglings in Mid Wales

Ospreys disappeared from the UK in 1916, the victims of persecution and egg-collecting, but populations have been slowly recovering since the 1950s. In Wales there are now five breeding pairs that return each year to lay their eggs after wintering in west Africa. Telyn and Idris, one of these pairs, are now raising three chicks, which hatched at the end of May, at the Dyfi Osprey Project outside Machynlleth.

The centre’s YouTube channel has more than 20,000 subscribers following their progress. At the Cors Dyfi nature reserve, visitors get a front-row seat – the observatory tower less than 200 metres from the nest, and this summer those chicks will begin to fly, then learn to hunt for themselves.
Adults £8, children £4, dyfiospreyproject.com

Biking in Robin Hood country

Forestry England’s Sherwood Pines is an activity-filled corner of Sherwood Forest, north Nottinghamshire, more popular these days with mountain bikers than merry men. The 1,336-hectare (3,300-acre) woods has a network of trails for all abilities: advanced dirt jumps, single track downhills filled with berms and rollers, and the four-mile Maid Marion family loop for gentle off-road cycling (bike hire available). The new Pedal and Play trail allows the next generation of freeriders to learn on three loops of increasing skill, including one wide enough for adaptive bike users. King John’s Castle with its wobbly bridge, climbing tree and dungeon, is opposite for a post-pedal play.
Free (parking charges apply), forestryengland.uk/sherwood-pines

A tidal swimming pool tour on the Fife coast

In the early 20th century, tidal pools were all the rage as bathers discovered the health benefits of salt water. Up and down the coast rugged lidos were created, which fill with seawater at high tide, offering a sheltered swim away from waves and currents. The pools at St Monans, Pittenweem and Cellardyke sit on the Fife coast and have been revamped in recent years by community-driven projects. Start at boulder-edged St Monans; then at Pittenweem add a round of mini golf which funds the pool’s upkeep; and after finishing at Cellardyke have wood-fired pizza and coffee. This stretch of East Neuk is strung with pretty fishing villages (each with top-notch fish and chips) linked by the beautiful Fife Coastal Path.
Free, cellardyketidalpool.com, thewestbraes.co.uk, St Monans

Cosmic land art in Dumfries and Galloway

A 400m-long path lined with giant standing stones cuts north to south across the gently rolling hillsides of southern Scotland. This isn’t the mysterious work of Neolithic man, but of American visionary land artist Charles Jencks.

The pathway splits his Crawick Multiverse down the middle: on one side are the spiralling mounds of the Milky Way and Andromeda; on the other, a semicircle of trees, boulders and rusted scrap collide in jagged formations, representing the birth of a billion new stars as galaxies slam into each other. The 22-hectare site was an abandoned opencast mine, and Jencks turned tonnes of excavated earth and rock into an otherworldly sculptural installation.
Adults £8.50, children £5, crawickmultiverse.co.uk

Surf on a Blue Flag beach in North Shields

Each year the Blue Flag awards (or equivalent Scotland Beach awards) recognise the cleanest, safest, most environmentally well-managed stretches of coast in the UK. In 2026, 144 made the cut, from the gorgeous curve of Gyllyngvase Beach near Falmouth to the remote Sands of Breckon in Shetland.

Among them is the dune-backed, mile-long Tynemouth Longsands, the north-east’s year-round surf hub, 50 minutes from Newcastle on the metro. Both Longsands Surf School and Tynemouth Surf Co offer board hire and lessons for all ages, and in summer the swell is also dotted with kayakers and paddleboarders. Head to Longsands Fish Kitchen for fish and chips after.
Tynemouth Surf Co, kids’ lessons from £15 for 1.5 hours. Longsands Surf School, kids’ lessons from £22.50 for two hours.

Springwatch in County Fermanagh

BBC’s Springwatch had a new home this year with Chris Packham and Michaela Strachan broadcasting live for the first time in Northern Ireland at the National Trust’s Crom Estate. Set along the shores of Upper Lough Erne, this is one of Ireland’s most important nature conservation areas, with a tapestry of habitats: ancient oak-tangled woodlands, reed-fringed wetlands and flower-filled meadows.

The programme followed the estate’s red squirrels, pine martens, otters and birds of prey across its 810 hectares, and throughout the summer young wildlife watchers can borrow a tracker pack to find some of the animals themselves. For older children there are guided canoeing sessions on the lough (over-12s), or hire a rowing boat for all the family to mess about on the water.
Adults £9.50, children £4.75 (under-5s free), nationaltrust.org.uk

Thrills and red squirrels in the Cairngorms

The Cairngorms national park is great for outdoor adventures of all kinds. Head to the Landmark Forest Adventure Park near Carrbridge for action-packed attractions from a high-ropes course to a bouncy aerial net challenge, treetop trails, a water raft ride and a 10-metre climbing wall. Away from the high-tempo thrills, spot red squirrels among the Scots pines and climb the 105 steps of the forest tower to survey the Highland scenery through the telescope at the top.
Adults from £31, children from £29 (under-3s free), landmarkpark.co.uk

AS a travel writer and a mum of a seven-year-old boy who frequently solo parents on trips abroad, there is no gadget or toy that makes my life easier when travelling than the Yoto player. 

From plane journeys to passport control queues, coach transfers to quiet moments by the pool that allow me to read a few pages of my long-ignored book, the little machine is worth its weight in gold. 

But let’s face it, they aren’t cheap. The Mini Yoto Player costs £59.99 and then you have to pay around £7.99 to £9.99 for every story card.

Still well worth it, in my opinion, but a pain on the purse strings nonetheless. 

So it’s music to my ears, and doubtless millions of other parents to learn that Yoto have released seven hours of free audiobooks for kids this summer holidays, which they’re calling their ‘summer travel audio collections.’ 

Created for kids ages 3-14 and divided into two themed listening experiences – On the Road and A World of Adventure – the collection blends stories, music and educational content curated specifically for travel days.

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The On the Road collection includes: Journey Jams – upbeat music for family singalongs and long drives for kids aged 3-10, Biggest Ideas: Garrett Morgan, Inventor of the Traffic Signal – that introduces kids to the inventor behind traffic lights for kids aged 6-10, and Yoto Classics: The Wind in the Willows  for kids aged 8-14. 

The A World of Adventure collection includes: 5-Minute Stories from Around the World – bite-sized global tales for kids aged 4-7, Songs for Little Explorers – playful music and discovery-themed songs for kids aged 3-10, and Yoto Classics: Treasure Island – the classic pirate adventure reworked for younger listeners, for kids aged 8-14.

Yoto Content Director, Jess Tarrant said: “Travelling with kids can be a lot of fun, but it can also be overwhelming. We know parents are constantly looking for ways to keep kids entertained while reducing screen fatigue during long travel days. 

“Yoto was built for moments exactly like this: helping kids stay engaged, curious, and independent whether they’re in the backseat, at the airport gate, or winding down after a busy day of adventure.”

Yoto’s free summer travel playlist collections are available until September 1 through the Yoto App.

Yoto also has a new free Daily Draw Along collection, themed around rail and holidays, in partnership with Trainline.

The Draw Along collection acts like a creative travel companion for children, with each episode guiding them through a different scene inspired by trains, holidays and the things they might spot along the way.

Young travellers can design their own dream train or an under-the-sea train, head off on a mountain trail or a rollercoaster adventure.

Available until September 1 via the Discover section of the free Yoto app, the collection features 12 guided drawing episodes.

They’re inspired by what children may see or experience as they travel, and you don’t even need a Yoto player to use these guides.

Winning tip: a boat tour in County Fermanagh

The MV Kestrel has been taking boat tours out from Enniskillen on Lower Lough Erne for as long I can remember. We were brought out as primary schoolchildren on a geography field trip and I was recently a passenger for a civilised stag party. It’s popular for a reason: the tour (adults £15, under-12s £11) passes the old alma mater of Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett (Portora Royal School), and stops at the sixth-century monastic settlement on Devenish island. The silence out here has to be heard (or rather not heard) to be believed. The lough is beautiful regardless of the weather – and with this being Fermanagh, if you don’t like the weather just give it 10 minutes.
Tom

A fun-packed day on Glasgow’s riverside

My family loves a day trip to Glasgow’s Riverside Museum (free entry) on the north bank of the Clyde, quite near the Kelvingrove art gallery. It’s a great place for all generations to explore, and we love that it has interactive displays for children and a wealth of detail on Glasgow’s technological and industrial past for adults. Quite often there will be pop-up events, and the museum regularly runs holiday activities and workshops for families. It also has a purpose-built skateboarding spot outside and just over the Govan footbridge, there is the Maple Leaf, a newly opened artisan bakery that produces Scotland’s best croissants.
Katie

Bowled over by Bolsover in Derbyshire

I’ve lived 30 minutes from Bolsover Castle (adults from £15.38, children from £7.65, free for English Heritage members) for more than three years, but only decided to visit when trying to entertain my visiting parents and nephews (aged from two to 75). It was brilliant. The site has gardens and ruins to explore, a wall you can walk on and a castle to climb, but we also loved the interactive activities. In the basement, my nephew was wide-eyed at how his voice echoed through the chambers.
Sarah Rose

A wetland wonder in London

Not many Londoners know that there is a real treasure of a nature reserve just 20 minutes from the city centre by tube, perfect for a free family day out. The Walthamstow Wetlands is a protected area in the Lee valley, easily reached via Tottenham Hale station. I often spend a day there with my kids in spring and summer. We make up a picnic together, take a bird guide, a flask of tea and a pair of binoculars each. That, and a sense of curiosity and appreciation, is all you need for a great family day out. My teenagers especially enjoy the circular bird walk, viewing platforms and hides to enjoy unusual wildlife. There are also guided walks and talks about the wildlife.
Nigel

Inspired by a family reading of Laurie Lee’s As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning, we decided to follow his footsteps and have a walking day in the Cotswolds. It was brilliant. The sweet rolling hills stretching from Broadway to Bourton-on-the-Water are easy on the feet and easy on the eye for youngsters, parents and grandparents alike. The paths are well signposted and straying into little villages like the Slaughters – with their honey-coloured houses, village greens, pubs and tea rooms – is a joy. And don’t miss the National Trust’s Hidcote and Upton House for heavenly buildings, gardens and views over the Cotswolds.
Nicoletta

Be inspired by Isaac Newton in Lincolnshire

The National Trust’s Woolsthorpe Manor (adults from £15, children from £7.50), with its mix of history, science and a great picnic spot, has everything for a brilliant outing. It’s where Isaac Newton grew up and sheltered from the plague, and the house tells this story in a fascinating, family-friendly way. The gardens are a beautiful and peaceful spot to enjoy an ice-cream – next to the famous apple tree, of course. The discovery centre’s activities and experiments are brilliant for budding scientists of all ages. It’s our favourite stop off the A1 – a lovely day out which packs a punch for its small size.
Laura K

A quirky destination in the Yorkshire Dales

The Forbidden Corner (adults from £16.99, children from £14.99, pre-booked tickets only) on the Tupgill Park estate on the eastern edge of the Yorkshire Dales offers a day of mysteries and surprises. We loved exploring its maze of tunnels, secret doors, strange statues and hidden passages. It’s wonderfully quirky and just as entertaining for adults as for children. We also walked round the estate, discovering the herb garden and Fish Temple. We enjoyed a picnic, but you could eat in the cafe or restaurant.
Susanna B

A magical woodland in Gloucestershire

Puzzlewood (adults from £9.90, children from £8.50) is one of our favourite hidden gems in the UK. Within the ancient Forest of Dean, this magical woodland feels as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. Our children loved winding through the twisting paths, clambering over mossy rocks and discovering hidden corners, while we enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere and spotting TV and film locations. There’s also a small farm, picnic areas and a cafe, making it easy to spend the whole day here. If your family enjoys outdoor adventures with a touch of magic, I can’t recommend Puzzlewood highly enough.
Susanna Callaghan

A country park in Bedfordshire

Rushmere country park in Bedfordshire is our favourite summer day out. Our boys love the woodland play areas and den-building, while the walking trails through the trees are perfect even on hot days because there is plenty of shade. We usually take a picnic and stay the whole day there without spending very much at all. There are wildlife trails, cycling routes and lots of open space for football or games. It feels miles away from everyday life, and is perfect for families wanting an affordable summer adventure.
Nicola Hart

Fruit-picking in Surrey

When my family needs an easy summer day out, we head to Crockford Bridge farm in Surrey to fill our baskets with juicy strawberries, raspberries and rhubarb before rewarding ourselves with homemade gelato from local favourites Gelateria Danieli, served in the Wilding Barn. There are up to 24 flavours – some made using fruit grown on the farm – plus excellent vegan sorbets. Afterwards, the children can burn off any remaining energy in the playground. We leave with sticky fingers, punnets of fruit and the feeling we’ve made the most of a summer afternoon.
Carrie

Ambassador Cruise Line is offering a triple discount on holidays with hundreds to save on once-in-a-lifetime trips

The summer holiday season is officially here – and those who are bored of lazing on a beach every year might want to try something a little different by embarking on a cruise. While the cost factor may usually be enough to put travellers off the idea, one popular cruise line has launched some huge discounts on holidays for 2026 and beyond.

Ambassador Cruise Line is offering a series of stacked deals on voyages setting sail from ports across the UK. With more than 200 holidays to choose from, there’s 20% off to be had on selected cruises running from London, Liverpool, Newcastle and more in a sale running until July 29.

Holidaymakers can also score an additional 5% off all no-fly cruises using the code SMILE5, on top of all other sale offers, with just hours left to nab this deal. And to top it off, Ambassador is offering an extra 15% off a handful of its winter sun trips with the discount code SAILMORE15 – giving holidaymakers the chance to save up to 40% in total on a cruise to the likes of the Caribbean or Canary Islands.

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One of the biggest deals gives passengers the chance to kick off the New Year in style with the Gems of the Caribbean Sea cruise setting sail from London Tilbury on January 5 for an incredible 42 nights. Calling at 14 countries, stop-offs include iconic destinations such as Barbados, St Lucia, Jamaica and Antigua.

At £3,415 per person, this six-week trip doesn’t come cheap – but those who book before 9 am on Friday, July 17 and stack their discount codes can get on board from £2,049 with a huge 40% saving, working out at less than £49 per night. And the beauty of a cruise is that travel, accommodation and dining are all included in that price.

Get up to 40% off Ambassador cruises

From £202pp

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Ambassador Cruise Line is offering multiple discounts on holidays from the UK to the Mediterranean, Caribbean, Canary Islands and more.

Another top deal comes on the Gems of the Adriatic & Mediterranean Autumn Sun holiday, which also has 40% off if passengers book before 9am on Friday, bringing prices from £2,903 per person down to starting at £1,742. Setting sail from London Tilbury on November 3 for 31 nights, this journey has 15 ports of call across seven countries, from beauty spots in Greece and Croatia to hidden gem destinations in Morocco and Tunisia.

And for those seeking a shorter and more budget-friendly option, there’s also the Autumn Escape to the Canary Islands, which not only has 10% off all cabins and an extra 5% off on top, but is also on a Cruise of the Week offer, spelling an extra 10% discount. Now available from £991.50 per person, this 14-night holiday from London Tilbury promises “volcanic landscapes, lush forests, and stunning beaches” as it visits Madeira, La Palma and Tenerife.

Meanwhile, those who plan ahead can also bag a buy-one, get-one-half-price deal on Ambassador cruises from April 2028, meaning passengers can bring a loved one along for less. But this isn’t the only cruise line offering savings on holidays departing from the UK.

Fred Olsen is also running special offers on selected winter sun cruises, such as the Mediterranean & Canary Islands Warmth holiday in November 2026. Passengers can get a half-price drinks package and a free flight at the end of the cruise back to London or Manchester.

Half-price drinks and a free flight are also available on the Canaries Escape with the Fleet Fiesta. As well as a discount for solo travellers on B-grade cabins.

In addition, TUI Marella Cruises is also offering a selection of last-minute cruise deals for summer holidaymakers, although it’s worth bearing in mind that these also include flights. Top offers for the summer holidays include the Mediterranean Medley trip sailing from Palma on August 1 for seven nights, now priced from £1,114 per person with a £712 discount.

Another option is the Aegean Delights cruise from Cyprus for seven nights from August 5. Now £1,095 per person with a discount of £822.

I HAVE normally necked far too much Ouzo the night before to rise with the sun during a holiday in gorgeous Greece.

But my eyes are being opened, literally, to a much more wholesome and healthy way to start the day here on the island of Crete.

While my downward dog should arguably be put down, as my balance has gone walkies, the sound of the Cretan Sea gently lapping at the shore does make a sunrise yoga session surprisingly satisfying.

Never mind sinking sambuca shots, this is how holidays should be — relaxing, restful and geared towards recuperation.

I’m staying at Giannoulis Santa Marina Plaza, a 4* adults-only hotel tailored to a quieter and more authentic Cretan vacation.

Superbly serene, with a calming, child-free environment, it’s right on the golden, sandy, Blue Flag-rated Agia Marina beach.

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My double room is small but comfortably formed, with an ensuite bathroom, TV and compact balcony to enjoy the sunrise over Kri-Kri island (more on that later).

With just 51 rooms and suites at this boutique hotel, even at full occupancy you’ll always get a sun bed.

The food is as good as you’d expect in Greece — super souvlaki, terrific tzatziki, outstanding olive oil — but the jewel in the crown is the hospitality.

From reception staff to the waiters and cleaners, this family-run resort is full of welcoming faces, attentive and always ready with a friendly “kalimera” (good morning) or “kalispera” (good evening).

The majority of guests are couples, over 50, enjoying the easy-going vibe.

By day, the only activity is people rising from a sun lounger for a refreshing dip in the pool or sea.

By night, it’s all about a game of cards on your balcony or a casual al fresco dinner by candlelight.

Crucially, this tranquil base is only 20 minutes — by bus, right outside the hotel, or taxi — from Chania, Crete’s charming old town, where ancient architecture meets a more modern city.

It’s an easy-on-the-eye cultural hub, with shops carved into honey-coloured stone walls, restaurants, cute cafes and churches.

After a few relaxed hours searching for souvenirs down its narrow, cobbled streets and snapping away at the beautiful Venetian harbour and 16th-century lighthouse, it’s time for a change of location, as I head west along the coast to Giannoulis’s sister hotel, Cavo Spada.

A much larger complex, with 150 deluxe rooms and suites, this sporty 5* leisure and spa resort is more suited to active holidaymakers. With tennis and padel courts, an assault course, a running track and indoor and outdoor gyms kitted out with top-quality equipment, its facilities are so good that the Swedish Olympic team use it for their training camps.

You can take part in a calendar of events ranging from spinning to body combat.

But that’s not my idea of a holiday.

Instead, I take advantage of the ­all-inclusive board to sample the decent cocktail menu at the bar overlooking the huge lagoon pool at the heart of the resort.

After over-exerting my right arm with the repeated lifting of a pina colada from table to mouth, I head to the on-site spa for a full-body massage, followed by a sauna and steam room.

Clearly a gem of a resort for keep-fit couples, it’s also a good option for families, with a kids’ outdoor playground and indoor play room.

And it’s just a short taxi ride from Kolymbari port, where I clamber aboard a catamaran for a half-day at sea. Destination — Kri-Kri island.

Our deckhand tells us of the ancient Greek mythology that Kri-Kri — AKA Thodorou island — was created when a massive sea monster and its child were turned to stone by Crete’s protector Poseidon, God of the Sea.

Now it’s a breeding ground for the protected Kri-Kri wild goat.

And while anchoring up for some paddleboard play and a snorkel in clear azure water, it’s fun to see if you can spot any of the cliff-climbing goats.

Having worked up an appetite thanks to all that, well, relaxing, back at the hotel’s Azzuro restaurant I really get stuck into a sensational a-la-carte option with Michelin star-worthy food.

After another cocktail workout (my right arm really is doing the heavy lifting on this break), I educate myself with two mainstays of Greek culture.

A complimentary olive-oil tasting session (FYI: trust the Cretan chef and store your olive oil in the fridge) is followed by wine-tasting with the hotel’s maitre d’.

I could quite easily finish a bottle of the white — an indigenous Vidiano.

But like I have done since arriving in Crete, I’m taking it easy — I’ve got another yoga session at sunrise.

FORGET garden centres, DIY jobs and lazy weekends at home – a growing number of Brits are flying to European cities for just a few hours before heading home the very same day.

Called “extreme day tripping,” the new trend is thanks to cheap return flights costing less than a meal out.

These adventurous travellers manage to squeeze in croissants in Paris, canal cruises in Amsterdam and pizza in Milan without booking a hotel room.

Lisa Houston, from Edinburgh, caught the extreme day trip bug after taking her son to Paris in January.

“My son had recently split up from his girlfriend and I wanted to give him something completely different to look forward to,” she said.

“He hadn’t been abroad since he was seven, so I surprised him with a day trip to Paris.

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“We saw Les Invalides: Napoleon’s Tomb, sailed down the Seine, ate croissants in a little Parisian cafe and stood gazing at the Eiffel Tower. He absolutely loved it.”

The pair flew out at 7am and returned home the same evening.

“The flights were about £100 each, but you can often get them much cheaper,” Lisa said. “It was enough time to enjoy the city without feeling rushed.”

The trip sparked a love for Lisa and has since ticked off Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Milan and Dublin, with Barcelona, Paris and Poland still to come later this year.

One of her biggest bargains was Copenhagen, where she managed to secure return flights for just £34.

After spotting photos of the colourful waterfront district of Nyhavn on Instagram, Lisa booked the trip and spent the day exploring the Danish capital.

“By lunchtime I was sitting outside a cafe with Nyhavn behind me,” she said.

Despite the early starts – often leaving home before 3am to catch the first flight – Lisa insists it’s worth every minute.

“I treat the whole day as the adventure, not just being in the destination,” she said.

Like other Extreme Day Trippers, Lisa gets some inspiration from a Facebook Group of like-minded people but said the appeal fitting in holidays around busy schedules.

“I’ve got a busy job, a granddaughter living with me, elderly parents and caring responsibilities,” she said.

“Sometimes I just need a day that’s all about me. Telling people that I’m ‘off to Paris to have lunch’ is my vibe these days.”

She estimates most of her trips cost around £150 in total, including flights, food and attractions.

“I think it’s brilliant value for money – in a couple of hours you’re somewhere you’ve never been before, seeing things you’ve only dreamed of. That’s priceless.”

Another Extreme Day Tripper is Emily Benham from Essex, who recently flew to Pisa with her daughter for the day.

“We left home at 4am and arrived in Pisa at 11am,” she said.

“Our flights were £125 each – I would have preferred them to be £75 or under as I think part of the fun is keeping it as cheap as possible but my daughter chose the destination and it was worth it.”

“A highlight was seeing the Leaning Tower for the first time. It was breath-taking.”

The pair spent eight hours exploring the city, visiting the cathedral, eating pizza and wandering the back streets before heading home that evening.

“It was my first extreme day trip and I’ve already booked another one to Frankfurt with my brother and sister,” she said.

For Cassie Goodfellow, from Bathgate, an extreme day trip was the perfect way to celebrate turning 40.

After spotting inspiration online, she booked a return flight to Copenhagen and spent 12 hours exploring the city solo.

“Most people thought I was a bit crazy,” she admitted.

“They couldn’t understand why I’d travel abroad for just a day or the fact I was doing it solo, But the memories and experience made it worthwhile.”

Flights cost just £63 return, while her total spend for the day came to around £160.

“The highlight was wandering Copenhagen’s beautiful streets and landmarks,” she said.

“I was surprised by how much I managed to fit into one day.”

Looking back, she says it was one of the best things she has ever done.

“There’s something exciting about proving you can have a meaningful travel experience in a single day,” she said.

“I’m already thinking about where to go next.”

Some stories never get old. The poems and songs from Greek mythology – tales of tragedy, love and loss, war and revenge, jealous gods, magic and monsters – have been retold through the ages for good reason. Like all stories that really resonate, they deal in the flawed nature of humankind.

To the ancients, though, they were far more than legends; they explained the universe. From the Earth’s origins and the stories of constellations to ideas of justice and morality, they shaped the arts and sciences, and carved a shared cultural identity. Visiting Greece today, it’s clear how deeply rooted the myths still are in modern culture. From the capital (named after wise Athena) and beyond, this is a country steeped in legends.

Blaze a trail in the footsteps of heroes and monsters, but pay due respect to the gods – particularly Zeus (king of all, commanding the sky), and his brothers Poseidon (ruler of oceans) and Hades (overseer of the underworld) – lest, like Odysseus, you inadvertently anger them and spend the next 10 years trying to get home.

Navel gaze with Zeus at Delphi

When Zeus wanted to find the world’s centre, the story goes that he released a pair of eagles. One flew east; the other west. They met “in the middle” – on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, at Delphi, navel of the ancient Greek world. While Athens’ Acropolis occupied Greece’s political centre, Delphi was its spiritual heart. Apollo established his temple here, and the seat of the oracle. Anyone seeking guidance – from lowly shepherds worrying about their goats to kings mulling matters of state – headed up the mountain to consult Apollo through his tongue-speaking vapour-sniffing priestess Pythia. Answers were considered divine truth, but notoriously cryptic (a bit rich after a three-day slog).

Today’s pilgrims are better-served by the present-day town of Delphi, beside the stunning archaeological site. Its tavernas and hotels, terraced into the southern edge of the cliffside, share the jaw-dropping panorama. Eat, drink and seek guidance at Apollo’s old pillars. Gawp at the impressive amphitheatre, framed by the peaks of Mount Kirfi, and the Pleistos valley below (a million-strong grove of ancient olive trees). Gaze west as the sun sets over the Corinthian gulf. Eagles or no eagles, you will feel yourself at the centre of the universe.
Where to stay: Kastalia Boutique Hotel, Delphi, doubles from £62 room-only, kastaliahotel.gr

Bathe in Hades’ river in Epirus

When the infernal heat of July and August hits, the only reasonable response is a refreshing dunk in a shady river. I favour the Acheron (as recommended by Circe to Odysseus when he needed a fast route into the underworld). Seek out this “River of Woe” – one of the five rivers encircling Hades’ realm of the dead. Not the happiest destination for the poor souls Hermes delivered to its banks, a coin for the ferryman clamped in their cold dead mouths. But for us? Absolutely delightful.

Cool, clear waters wind from the Tomares mountains, through the Acheron valley and out to sea. Its banks are fringed by lush forest and verdant hillsides. Visit Mesopotamos for the Necromanteion (oracle of the dead) and the fishing hamlet of Ammoudia where the river slows and spreads out to a delta (watch for otters) before pouring into the deep blue sea.

Swim, raft or zipline at the scenic Acheron Springs near Glyki. Head into the mountains, to the historic Souli watermills, and a laid-back taverna or Paradosiako, (literally a “traditional cafe”) by a stream, all rough-hewn tabletops on giant stones.

For the most magical trip, round the mountain to the Gates of Hades, where the river cuts through towering limestone cliffs, like an entrance to the other realm. Electric-blue dragonflies, bright butterflies and raptors fly overhead. Strong currents and deeper pools mean that some care is needed. Like Orpheus, Heracles and Odysseus, you’ll want to make sure to return from the underworld.
Where to stay: Atman Eco Lodge, near Glyki, doubles from £103 room-only, atmangreece.com

Float up to Nestor’s cave at Pylos

Homer’s “Sandy Pylos” is a handsome seaside town with a great deal going for it. Strategically placed inside the deep, well-protected – and gorgeous – Navarino bay, it was the site of a triumphant naval battle against the Ottoman empire during the war of Greek independence (proud locals re-enact it each October). It features prominently in both the Odyssey and the Iliad as the manor of wise old King Nestor (Nestor’s Palace, nearby, is Greece’s best preserved Mycenaean monument). It’s also an easy distance for a day trip to ancient Messine, a wonderful and underrated archaeological site.

Guarding Pylos itself is the well-preserved Ottoman castle, Niokastro, but I prefer the old ruined Paliokastro to the north of the bay. It overlooks Voidokilia, a bay where turtles nest. No sunbeds, no cafes, just piles of soft sandy dunes, backed by wetlands hosting hundreds of migratory birds and rare reptiles. You’ll want to go down there. Nestor’s cave is here, the spot where a precocious infant Hermes hid the cattle he stole from Apollo. If you can’t face another ascent, float in turquoise water and stare up at its gaping entrance.
Where to stay: Dio Pigadia ecovillage and farm, cottages from €50 a night, tiny cabins from €25, dio-pigadia.com

Marvel at Mycenae’s Lion Gate

Mycenae, the bronze-age citadel, is steeped in myth, founded, the ancients believed, by Perseus, son of Zeus. This is the legendary homeland of Agamemnon, king of “well-built Mycenae, rich in gold” as Homer had it (archaeological excavations confirmed his accuracy). The acropolis straddles a hilltop in the Argolid plain, overlooking the Saronic gulf’s approaches towards Nafplion and Argos. Strategic for the Mycenaeans, breathtaking for us.

You’ll want to stop at the Lion Gate entrance, an impressive example of megalithic architecture: a pair of lions are sculpted in stone relief. I stood with my father and stared. He always found the myths rather nonsensical, but even he had pause for thought at these Cyclopean walls, colossal blocks, 20 tonnes apiece.

Inside are the ancient palace ruins, the tomb of Clytemnestra and the treasury of Atreus. Admire Mycenaean craftsmanship and culture in the museum – excavated artefacts include tablets in Linear B (the earliest attested form of written Greek). Don’t miss the copy of Agamemnon’s golden funeral mask (the original is in Athens).
Where to stay: Grand Sarai hotel in Nafplion, doubles from £130 B&B, grandsarainafplio.com

Poseidon’s love shack on Paxos

This is one for the romantics and lovers of nature – and is a laid-back holiday. It’s a rare treat to see the gods’ softer side, and the ridiculously pretty island of Paxos came about thanks to Poseidon at his most tender. The usually raging, storm-stirring god created this little Eden (now a protected site) in the throes of passion – his trident is the island’s emblem. Smitten at first sight by the sea nymph Amphitrite, who fled to the deepest ocean to evade him, a deeply infatuated Poseidon sent Delphin, a kind of charming dolphin, in pursuit to talk up his good side. It worked – she returned, as his queen (and mother of dolphins and seals).

Poseidon struck off the southern tip of Corfu to form Paxos – effectively one large olive grove – as their love nest, and placed Delphinus among the stars as a reward. Honour the couple by enjoying that uncannily turquoise sea, snorkel over beautiful (and protected) posidonia seagrass meadows, and look out for the dolphins that are often seen here (depicted pulling Amphitrite’s chariot along with seahorses that are very occasionally spotted in the area).

The famous blue caves here are said to be the pair’s love-shack-cum-palace, and attract numerous boat trips in season. Take care on approach to avoid disturbance to sealife. Visit lovely Lakka for its horseshoe bay and Gaios, the pretty little main town. End your days stargazing and remember to toast the five-starred Dolphin constellation in thanks for this paradise.
Where to stay: Village Life Penthouse from €195, paxosownersdirect.com

Susan Smillie’s book, The Half Bird, recounts her sailing voyage from the UK to Greece, and the mythical destinations she encountered along the way. To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

A UK travel company has entered administration with future trips cancelled.

Groupia Ltd, which used to create group-based trips within the UK and Europe including hen and stag dos, weekend adventures, spa days and ski trips, has shut down.

More than 750,000 people have travelled with the company since it opened in 2002, with destinations including Prague and Barcelona.

The company also traded under other names including Groupia Golf, GoHen, StagWeb, Groupia School Trips and Company Away Days.

According to the company’s website, Groupia Ltd entered administration on June 16.

The website states: “Nigel Fox and Christopher Marsden of S&W Partners LLP appointed as Joint Administrators.

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“The Company has now ceased taking new bookings, and arrangements are in place with ABTOT (a UK government-approved travel protection scheme) to support customers with existing bookings.”

For anyone who had an upcoming event or holiday on or before August 31, “ABTOT have arrangements in place”with events “expected to go ahead as planned”.

Travellers can use the company’s existing VIP booking system to manage their bookings.

On the other hand, if you had something booked from September 1 onwards, the website states: “Your event will unfortunately be cancelled and is subject to a refund claim.” 

You can claim back in different ways – either by requesting a credit card refund or a debit card back-charge, with different letters for each available on the company’s website for customers can send to their banks.

There is also an option for anyone who paid a different way to either credit or debit cards.

The website also warns that refunds might take up to six weeks.

A TRAVEL agent with decades of experience has revealed the ultimate throwback destination and says you can still get holidays for the retro pricing too.

Spain is a classic summer destination for Brits and one spot remains popular for good reason.

But Claire Watters, a First Choice travel agent, revealed that Majorca is the island that she sold more than anywhere else in the 90s.

She said: “In the ‘90s, if a family walked in wanting guaranteed sunshine, a short flight and a holiday that wouldn’t break the bank, Majorca was usually my first recommendation.

“Thirty years later, despite how much travel has changed, my advice remains exactly the same.”

Back in the 90s, a holiday to Majorca for a family of four cost around £349, which would be about £719 now.

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And holidays today could cost you the same… or even less.

A seven-night break for a family of four to Playa Moreia in Majorca, flying from London Southend on October 10 via First Choice costs £179 per person – £716 total.

When it comes to recommendations for travellers heading to the Spanish spot, Claire has loads.

She said: “Alcudia is the best area for families for me.

“It has a long, sandy beach with shallow water and a calm sea, which is ideal for younger children to paddle safely.

“You’ll find waterparks and plenty of watersports, boat trips, cycling routes, and nature parks, and there are also playgrounds, kids’ clubs, and family entertainment in many hotels.

“The all-inclusive options make things simple and budget-friendly, and you can walk around in a calmer resort that is more geared up for families.”

And for when it comes to discovering a beach spot, Claire recommends heading to the Blue Flag Playa de Muro.

She said: “The sea is very shallow for 50–100 metres, staying knee-deep for a long distance.

“The beach stretches nearly four miles, making it one of the longest beaches in Majorca.

“The water is calm, warm, and clear, with hardly any currents.

“Regular water testing, lifeguards, and rescue services keep standards very high. This makes it perfect for families, non-swimmers, and relaxing swims.”

For a day where you want to head off for a day trip somewhere, Claire says to head to Sóller and the historic railway, Caves of Drach tour & sunset boat trip.

She said: “Sóller and the historic railway is one of the best day trips for me.

“You can step back in time because the train dates from 1912, with original wooden carriages still in use.

“The scenery is incredible, as the route crosses the Serra de Tramuntana, which is a UNESCO World Heritage mountain area, with tunnels, viaducts, and views of orange groves.

“It is a unique experience because it’s not just transport, it’s a slow, scenic journey through the countryside that you wouldn’t normally see.”

Another spot is the Caves of Drach tour which “allows you to explore a huge underground cave system”.

Claire added: “It features Lake Martel, one of the largest underground lakes in the world.

“The visit ends with a live classical music concert on the water, which is so lovely.”

For something a little more romantic, Claire suggests hopping on a sunset boat trip.

She said: “Sunsets over the water give clearer, more intense colours and are great for those Insta-worthy photos and stories, with golden-hour views across the ocean and coastline.

“It often includes swimming, drinks, music, or food onboard, and it is great for families and couples wanting different scenery away from the hotel.”

Another must-visit spot for Claire is Cap de Formentor – a scenic drive with lots of different viewpoints.

“Each stop reveals a completely different view, so it’s like multiple viewpoints in one trip,” she revealed.

“It is an incredible sunrise and sunset spot, and it’s one of the most photographed spots in Majorca – I get that rare feeling of standing at the edge of the island.”

In the ’90s, two properties dominated Claire’s booking screen, and both remain icons of Majorcan tourism today: Club Mac and TUI BLUE Alcudia Pins.

“I must have sent thousands of families to Club Mac and Alcudia Pins,” Claire says.

“Back then, they were the gold standard for a hassle-free family holiday, and they’re still available to book on First Choice today, although I’m glad to say they’ve been updated.”

And when it comes to places to stay Claire still recommends Alcudia Pins, costing from £421 per person in October.

“Alcudia Pins is the location is hard to beat – it sits right on Playa de Muro, which is one of the best beaches in Majorca making this an ideal and great spot for families; the beachfront access alone makes a big difference,” Claire shared.

“It’s genuinely family-focused with lots of Kids’ clubs and activities, pools and entertainment and it’s close to the resort town for trips outside of the hotel.

“Also a good overall value hotel where customers can choose a self- catering or an all inclusive option giving them the choice to decide their board basis.”

Claire added: “In the ’90s, people thought Majorca was just cheap and cheerful.

“But even back then, those of us in-the-know knew it had some of the most stunning scenery in Europe.

“Today, the island has managed to preserve its traditional charm while upgrading its offering.”

My wife and I moved from London to Marseille a little over five years ago when our British passports still conferred “right to reside” in France. That first winter on the beach, in short sleeves, as our daughters played in the topaz-coloured Mediterranean and the sun set across an ever-clear blue sky, I understood why this part of southern France has always been popular with artists.

I was recently speaking about this with the painter Fanny Nushka and her sailor husband, Benoît Bouchet, on the terrace of Café la Muse in Marseille’s “coolest” neighbourhood. She said: “It took a long time to go back to blue. It’s like being in Paris and painting the Eiffel Tower. It’s dangerous to paint the Calanques [limestone coves] as an artist from here.”

We moved to Marseille for the same reason that has attracted countless artists: it’s cheaper to live here. Marseille’s affordability enables Fanny to paint full-time and Benoît to sail without being away from his family for weeks. Benoît runs daily catered cruises on a listed sailing yacht, Le Don du Vent. For €135, you get a taste of Mediterranean luxury with swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing in the unspoiled sea coves around Marseille, pausing briefly for wine and a lunch prepared onboard.

Céline Ghisleri, co-president of Provence Contemporary Art, which represents 62 arts organisations in and around Marseille, tells me the city has always had a dynamic art scene. However, the turning point came when Marseille was named European Capital of Culture in 2013. Since then, large institutions such as Frac Sud, Mac and the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (Mucem) have expanded the city’s offering with bigger exhibitions from more widely recognised artists.

This summer, the Mucem’s exhibitions are Bonnes Mères, a collection of contemporary and historical works on the theme of motherhood, and Clément Cogitore’s fascinating Ferdinandea, l’île éphémère, a body of work centred on the brief existence of a volcanic Mediterranean island. At the end of August, the art fair Art-O-Rama will be hosted at La Friche La Belle de Mai. La Friche (the Wasteland) was a tobacco factory and is now an enormous warren of a multidisciplinary arts centre that is always buzzing, especially in the summer when they set up a movie screen and food trucks on the roof. La Friche is emblematic of the art scene in Marseille: absolute chaos, but somehow it works.

Outside Marseille, Plein Sud, a network of contemporary art organisations between Monaco and Montpellier, produces a guide with travel itineraries. It’s how I discovered the charming Gallifet art centre in nearby Aix-en-Provence, which is only about 40 minutes from Marseille but exists in a completely different universe.

You couldn’t be further away from Marseille’s port city energy than Aix’s daily market at Place Richelme, where you can grab a coffee and, if you are lucky, an outdoor seat at the patisserie and salon de thé Maison Weibel. For lunch, I recommend Drôle d’Endroit (Funny Place). It is tucked down an alley off a sidestreet, but the meals are always pleasing and the atmosphere friendly. Another solid choice is Tita for Levantine street food.

As tiny and quiet as Aix is, it has an abundance of museums, such as the Granet Museum, the Caumont Art Centre and the Vasarely Foundation, but they tend to lean heavily on art that historians have already anointed. For example, it wasn’t until 1984 that the Granet acquired any works by the local boy done good, Cézanne, whose preserved studio is just up the hill.

That’s why it was refreshing to find Gallifet trying something different. The owners, Nicolas Mazet and Kate Davis, have a mission to bring contemporary art to conservative Aix. Located on the ground floor of an 18th-century townhouse, the courtyard’s striking red sculpture of a swimmer mid-stroke, by Diadji Diop, hints that Gallifet is more than just a home (the owners live above the art centre).

This summer’s exhibition features a retrospective of the photographer François Halard, with more than 100 works spanning more than three decades. Until the end of September, Gallifet also hosts a seasonal restaurant and chef’s residency. This year, two Paris-based chefs, Lisa Desforges and Bruno Hammerle, will use Provence’s abundant and delicious ingredients to create menus including entrees such as smoked ricotta gnocchi with peas and a peapod veloute. Gallifet also offers two apartments (from €200 and €160 per night), both decorated with pieces from previous exhibitions and filled with Provençal features such as marble fireplaces and tomette terracotta tiles.

A little further up the Rhône, Avignon nestles against the river, enclosed by preserved medieval walls. The Palais des Papes overlooks the renowned vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the north and lavender fields to the south. Each July, the town is taken over by the Avignon festival, one of the oldest performance arts festivals.

After a visit, take a walk along the most picturesque and charming street in Avignon, La Rue Peyrolerie. A winding medieval cobbled alley leads to an equally charming restaurant, L’Épicerie, situated in a square beside a small 14th-century gothic church with an ornately carved walnut-wood door. The cuisine is classic French, served in generous portions by friendly staff. Every time we visit Avignon, we dine here and have never been disappointed, but be warned that the terrace fills up quickly. This is a well-known and well-loved spot among locals. Another safe bet for outdoor courtyard dining is Numéro 75.

The most notable address for contemporary art in Avignon is the Lambert Collection, housed in two stunning 18th-century townhouses, Hôtel de Caumont and Hôtel de Montfaucon. The collection is the legacy of Yvon Lambert, a celebrated gallerist and collector who made his reputation in the latter half of the 20th century championing American artists such as Nan Goldin, Donald Judd, Lawrence Weiner and Cy Twombly. The collection continues to support up-and-coming local artists in its Antechamber of Summer exhibition. This year’s exhibition is by Melika Sadeghzadeh, an Iranian artist living and working in Montpellier.

Just south of Avignon, Arles has at its centre a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheatre, which hosts plays and concerts. The Vincent van Gogh Foundation and Luma host several exhibitions throughout the year, but the real treat comes in July during the Rencontres d’Arles. For 50 years, venues across town, from galleries to grocery stores, have showcased a wide range of contemporary and historical photography.

Recently, we went to Arles for its Festival of Drawing. After a wander through the picturesque medieval streets of the Roquette district on the east side of town, popping into venues as we went, we discovered the tiny restaurant Páou in the quaint Place Paul Doumer. The menu promised sharing plates starring local produce and wines. So we sat down for another meal at another terrace table, under another clear blue sky.

The moment came on about day four. A cloud-like mist was drenching our faces, hair and clothes, despite the thick canopy of trees overhead. My six-year-old daughter silently trudged uphill pushing her bike, her mouth set in a grim line. I looked again at the blue blob on Google Maps, which seemed, unfeasibly, to indicate we were on the right path. I thought, again, about the diminishing supply of chocolate in my backpack.

“See! I told you! We’re having an adventure,” I said with forced jollity. She didn’t even look up.

“This is not an adventure,” she said. “This is just pushing your bike up a big hill.”

One of my favourite recent photographs is of me (unusually), perched on the bonnet of our car, about to set off on a solo, two-week road trip from our Sussex home to the wilds of Scotland, taking in Eryri (Snowdonia), Lancashire, the Lake District and Yorkshire. I had no idea that the research trip I was about to embark on – for my book, which traces the story of British holidays over 400 years – was going to reveal my homeland as somewhere I barely knew.

As a southerner, it was the northern half of Britain that I needed to discover. I’d stitched together my route with visits to museums, archives and classic seaside resorts that had once blazed so brightly. I’d visited Cumbria before, but the Conwy coast, the Lancashire countryside, Blackpool, Morecambe, Scarborough? All these were unknowns.

My first stop was Eryri, where it turned out my hotel, the Royal Oak in Betws-y-Coed, had been welcoming artists such as JMW Turner since the late 18th century. Fifty years later, it became the hub of the country’s first artists’ colony, drawn here by the dramatic beauty of the dense, bottle-green swathes of the Gwydir Forest and the spectacular peaks of the Glyderau range and Moel Siabod.

Over coffee, hotel manager Katie Valentine told me about the artists who called the area home – David Cox, Henry Clarence Whaite and Thomas Collier among others – at least until Betws railway station opened in 1868. “At that point,” she said, “many moved to houses further up the valley, grumbling that the place was becoming flooded with tourists.” As I would discover on this journey, it seems overtourism is far from a contemporary travel trend.

From Eryri, it was a short hop to Llandudno, a beach town so pristine it felt a little like a Victorian theme park resort. “In some ways it is,” Judith Phillips, trustee of the Llandudno Museum, told me. “The family who built Llandudno in the mid-19th century – the Mostyns – still own much of it now, and control everything from what colours people can paint their hotels to what businesses are allowed on the promenade.”

The Llandudno Museum made plain that much of our history is not in the great city museums, but in libraries, archives and small museums on quiet high streets, often run by passionate volunteers with an encyclopaedic knowledge of their local heritage.

Driving from Llandudno up to Lancashire along the North Wales Expressway, I whipped in and out of tunnels, emerging to see great swathes of the cobalt-blue Irish Sea stretching to the horizon.

Further into my journey, I was pointed towards early editions of the very first guidebooks to the Lake District, written by Thomas West and William Wordsworth, at the Armitt Library in Ambleside; shown handwritten letters by Queen Victoria at Blair Castle (including her personal recipe for potato salad); and told wonderful stories of Wakes Week holidays in Blackpool by the dapper Richard Croisdale at Blackburn Museum – their longest-serving volunteer, at a sprightly 90 years old.

Blackburn’s grandiose Victorian museum and Bolton’s neoclassical town hall stand as legacies of the era when Lancashire towns were affluent manufacturing bases home to tens of thousands of factory workers. The Georgian streets of Richmond are like a mini Bath, but steeped in Yorkshire heritage. But perhaps nowhere confounded my expectations more than Blackpool.

Arriving on a Friday night, the promenade buzzed with lights and life; the illuminations blazing all the way to the tower, kids skipping along the seafront entirely unaware they had been brought to one of the most deprived towns in the country. “We are a town of extremes,” said Claire Smith, co-owner of the chic Number One South Beach B&B. “We have pockets of absolute joy next to complete caverns of woe. There’s no blending. It’s either amazing or awful.”

Claire and husband Mark shared stories of Blackpool in the 1970s, not least his coming back from the pub as a teenager to find his parents had let his bedroom – along with their own – to guests, leaving them to sleep in the lounge. This was the era when guests queued in their dressing gowns to use the bathrooms, landladies locked the doors between mealtimes, and peach Melba was the height of culinary flair.

“They were simpler times, people expected much less,” Claire told me, a little wistfully. “But I do think people were happier.” There’s still plenty of joy to be found, though. When I visit the Pleasure Beach as it opens on a Sunday morning, families are streaming in; the first coasters rattling skywards; a general air of giddy excitement that is a stark counterpoint to the rundown streets elsewhere in the town.

So many of my preconceptions were corrected or reversed: the elegant St George’s Hotel in Llandudno showed me that not all grand dame seaside hotels are faded or old-fashioned. And while we do love to run down our own seaside resorts, I saw beaches to rival anything the Med has to offer, from Scarborough’s South Bay to Morecambe’s vast, empty sandscapes.

Beyond the seaside, it was Scotland that really blew my mind. Following in the footsteps of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, who toured the Highlands and Lowlands for six weeks in 1803, I headed up the western flank of Loch Lomond, entirely unprepared for what I was about to discover. Dusk was falling as I drove across Rannoch Moor – a silent, pockmarked moonscape that seemed entirely bereft of life, save for a lone pair of car headlights, somewhere up ahead. And then, in the distance, great, hulking mountains began to rise up, guarding the entrance to Glen Coe. It is a landscape so forbidding that when I pulled up at the Three Sisters viewpoint, I was genuinely relieved to see another couple, so I didn’t have to stand alone among the ominous peaks.

Scotland had stories, too: from the spruce and redwood trees planted in Glen Coe by Lord Strathcona in the 1890s to make his Canadian wife feel at home, to Queen Victoria taking the first ever fly-and-flop (train-and-flop, perhaps more accurately) at Blair Castle in 1844. Her visit was hosted by the 6th Duke of Atholl, who promised the security of his own private army (and who had to move out of his own castle during the royal stay). It was the beginning of a royal love affair with Scotland that led to the purchase of Balmoral in 1852.

When I got home from the long road trip – 13 days and 1,600 miles later – my husband took the same photograph of me perched on the car. It had been more of an adventure than I could have ever imagined – to lands unknown on the island I call home.

The Great Escape: Britain’s 400-Year Love Affair with Holidays by Annabelle Thorpe (£18.99, DK Red) is available now. To support the Guardian, buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com for £17.09

It’s midnight, in June. Powder pink and dark grey clouds drift across a pallid sky, the palette reflecting in the motionless water of Lake Inari. Islets of pine and just-budding birch create pools of distorted shade close to the horizon of this 420 sq mile (1,080 sq km) lake in Lapland, northern Finland. There is not a sound. It’s so silent, I barely breathe to avoid disturbance. Only me, the lake and a moonbeam-coloured moth, whose wingbeat is inaudible.

I am sat beside my car-sized campervan, with mesmerised reverence for the rose-tinged panorama. I do not wish to go to bed and miss this moment. And I am loving the wild freedom and deliciousness of being entirely alone, with nobody in the world knowing my exact whereabouts. Ordinarily, I would be long asleep by midnight, exhausted after a day of work and family life. But I have left my husband and (adult) children at home in England for an eight-week solo camping adventure through Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Norway, with the singular aim of reaching Nordkapp (North Cape) and Knivskjellodden, Europe’s northernmost point at the top of Norway, in time for midsummer.

Earlier in the day, I’d met Father Christmas. “If you’re driving north, be careful of the reindeer,” the costumed gentleman said as I sat beside him at Santa Claus’s Main Post Office in Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland, a place considered over-touristy in winter, but certainly not during my summer visit.

“We have 230,000 reindeer here in Finland, but only one of them has a red nose.” As it happens, I see countless reindeer, in Finland, as well as Norway and Sweden, creeping through forests and grazing at the coast. Not Rudolph to my knowledge, but many females with calves, all legs and ears.

My meetings with reindeer and the night beside Lake Inari are two of many memorable experiences on my road trip through the Land of the Midnight Sun, so called because north of the Arctic Circle the sun doesn’t set below the horizon during the summer months. It doesn’t set for long south of it either, including in Denmark, where (after I’d driven my campervan from the UK via Germany) my Nordic adventure started in Rødby, on the island of Lolland.

Other than reaching Nordkapp, I have no plan; no accommodation booked either. Instead, I am utilising the popular practice of Allemansretten (everybody’s right, as it’s known in Norway), which is also legal in Finland and Sweden: the right to stop off-grid overnight on uncultivated land, leaving without a trace. On my journey I’m able to park up and stay overlooking fjords, beside mountain passes, with lake or coastal views.

From the flat plains of Lolland, Denmark’s fourth-largest island, my route north takes me to Helsingør for the ferry across the Øresund to Helsingborg in Sweden, leaving a rear-view image of Kronborg Slot – “Hamlet’s Castle” – at dawn.

Luminous lupins and puce pinks litter the roadsides of my 370-mile cross-country route to Sigtuna, 30 miles north-west of Stockholm. The lakeside settlement of colourful timber houses is Sweden’s oldest town. Half an hour’s drive north is Linnaeus’ Hammarby, a pretty 18th-century farm that once belonged to Carl Linnaeus, the botanist who developed the binomial system of naming species we use today.

Hammarby is wonderfully representative of this Uppland region of Sweden. I walk 10 miles through the cultivated countryside along the Dannmark Trail between Linnaeus’s farm and Uppsala, a route he would walk with his biology students for nature studies. Students at Uppsala University (where Linnaeus was a professor) are celebrating finals when I arrive, mingling around ice-cream cafes and in floral parks and botanical gardens. Nearby, the vast twin spires of the city’s rust-red cathedral protrude above blossoming rowan trees.

From Uppsala, I follow the E4, a road that reaches the border with Finland, covering more than 600 miles over six days. Along the way I cross Scandinavia’s longest suspension bridge, the Högakustenbron, at the Höga Kusten, or High Coast, a Unesco world heritage site.

Vast stretches of empty road lined with little but pine trees provide a chance for contemplation. But it’s not until I arrive in the colourful town of Karasjok days later, having crossed from Finland into Norway, that I truly understand the scale of the Nordics. For Karasjok feels very far north, yet it is still a four-hour drive to Nordkapp.

Karasjok is the Norwegian administrative centre for the indigenous Sámi population of Sápmi, the cross-border cultural region that includes parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. The parliament building resembles a traditional lavvu tent and, nearby, Sápmi Park offers an introduction to Sámi traditions.

Leaving Karasjok, the road winds its way alongside Porsangerfjorden, passing fishing hamlets, waterfalls, shaly mountain cliffs and tremendous viewpoints before dipping beneath the Arctic Ocean by tunnel to reach Magerøya, the island upon which Nordkapp sits. I chance upon fine weather as I climb beyond Honningsvåg, one of Norway’s northernmost towns, over snowy mountain plateaux to reach Nordkapp. A tear forms in the corner of my eye. I am alone, about 2,500 miles from home by the quickest route, and I wish my family could see what I can. But this is a solo adventure, and I have reached my goal, staying up all night to watch as the midnight sun sends orange beams across the Arctic Ocean. Captivating.

It is not by the quickest route that I return home, though. My journey back south through Norway (and ultimately Sweden and Denmark, too) is contorted, meandering west and east. Picnics beside turquoise sea coves on the Lofoten Islands, watching pods of dolphins in the Norwegian Sea. Bulging rivers and thundering waterfalls in Saltfjellet national park. Then small farms and meadows with emerald stripes of hay, amassed buttercups, and long lakes through the region of Trøndelag. It is Norway bursting into colour after the bleached landscapes of the north. Occasionally I’ll put in a long stretch in one day – 200 miles or so. Other days, I simply stay put, enjoying the view or stepping out for long walks.

Atlanterhavsvegen – a 22-mile national scenic route across skerries and strung together by bridges – is captivating. Then Runde, one of Norway’s westernmost islands, renowned for a colony of puffins that breed on the cliffs here. A steep mountain walk across the island reveals clusters of people perching on cliff edges in the hope of witnessing the spectacle of birds coming in to roost.

But it is the east of the island where I park up and sit alone for days, watching an otter swimming among the lichen-speckled black rocks, alerted by a clatter of ducks and ducklings, shelducks, wigeon and oystercatchers. Keeping my distance, I observe parent gulls sheltering fluffed-up chicks as curlew call overhead. Orchids, sea campion, clover and a host of other flowers smother the coastal ground. A memorable time.

So, too, my wild camp at the summit of Sognefjellet mountain pass, the highest road in Scandinavia. I set out from Lom, an attractive town that sits between three national parks and possesses a famous stave church and the fascinating Norwegian Mountain Centre. The road, also a designated national scenic route, runs alongside the pretty Bovra River initially, then climbs into some of Norway’s wildest scenery. My overnight is cold, with huge frozen lakes of glacial blue and roadside snow above the height of the campervan. In the morning, as Nordic skiers and a pack of snowmobiles head out to nearby glaciers, I brush snowflakes from my windscreen to begin the descent to the green and luscious Sognefjord. It’s as if I have stepped through a wardrobe and imagined the wintry summer scene.

I appreciate that being alone by choice is entirely different to loneliness. I am often asked of my solo travels, “Don’t you ever get lonely?” I can feel lonelier, I explain, in a crowded room than camping in the wild. Yes, leaving family behind creates a sense of “wish you were here”; special moments I’d like to share. Then again, this adventure is understanding that the memory is mine alone. The thrill, the excitement, the calm and occasionally the trepidation. I’d do it all again tomorrow.

The writer travelled in her own campervan, using Scandlines ferries between Puttgarden, Germany, and Rødby, Denmark. In the UK and Europe, hire of Roadsurfer’s smaller vehicles starts at £49 a night

Bear right in Romania

Jeremy Clarkson described Romania’s Transfăgărășan Highway as “one unbroken grey ribbon of motoring perfection”. The route (the second highest in Romania after the Transalpina) with its hairpin bends and climbs over the mountain was thrilling. Although we’d been told bear sightings were possible, we didn’t anticipate spotting them literally on the roadside, with one hanging over a stone wall posing for photographs, taken through the car window. Because of the harsh winters in the southern Carpathian Mountains, the section of the road to Bâlea Lake is open only for a few summer months – it proved particularly beautiful.
Helen Jackson

Highlights of Ireland

In 2022 my wife and I set off on a 1,000-mile road trip around the island of Ireland after taking the overnight ferry from Liverpool to Belfast. After exploring Belfast, we stopped in Dublin, Kilkenny, Waterford, Cork, Dingle, Ennis, Galway, Castlebar, Sligo, Donegal, Derry and back to Belfast. We stayed in youth hostels, B&Bs, spare rooms, hotels (the Ellison Hotel in Castlebar was our favourite) and holiday lets. The scenery was incredibly varied, with the peninsula drive on the Ring of Kerry and the karst landscape of the Burren in Co Clare being particularly memorable. There were beautiful beaches (the wild sands of Glassilaun in Co Galway was our favourite), rich history and culture, superb food, characterful towns and cities, and, of course, the best pubs, and such friendly, warm people.
Joe

Around the fjords of Norway

My wife and I drove from Bergen to Vossevangen along the Hardangerfjord (the second-longest fjord in Norway), with a diversion to Flåm for a sauna and dip. Then we took the Myrkdalen road, which includes hairpin bends, waterfalls and an exciting descent into Vikøyri. We visited Nese, a secluded village on the western shore of the Arnafjorden. Then we took the car ferry over to Dragsvik, on to the village of Rysjedalsvika, then along the northern shore of the Sognefjord (Norway’s longest and deepest fjord) for another car ferry over to stay in Dingja on the coast, to do some fishing. Then all the way back to Bergen.
Nick Martin

Geothermal bliss on Iceland’s ring road

We started from Reykjavík and drove around the whole country on the ring road. We have done a few road trip holidays – this one was the most interesting. Every day we saw multiple dramatic landscapes and weather conditions, as well as very few other cars (we went in May). Iceland is an expensive country but being able to whale-watch and swim in geothermal pools made it worth it.
Jess

The road to Orkney

We drove up to Orkney, taking our time, stopping in Glasgow, Falkirk, Perth and Tain. As lovers of history and design, we stopped at the Falkirk Wheel and the Kelpies, as well as Scone Palace just outside Perth and Dunrobin Castle in Sutherland, the most northerly of Scotland’s great houses. But, really, you’re spoilt for choice with castles, brochs and standing stones. For us, the spectacular Caithness coastline was the main attraction – not least Dunnet Head, mainland Britain’s most northerly point. There are oodles of excellent eateries along the way – we loved the River Bothy in Berriedale and Paesano Pizza in Glasgow.
Tania

Romance in Bavaria

The Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road) was an early postwar successful example of a themed tourist route. It covers 286 miles through Bavaria from Würzburg to Schwangau. We drove the entire route, diligently following the tourist signs. On the way, we visited picturesque medieval towns, climbed the clock tower at the medieval walled town of Nördlingen – built entirely inside a meteor crater – and ended at the fairytale castle of Schloss Neuschwanstein. We sampled the hearty Bavarian cuisine, firmly centred on pork and sausages, enjoyed the local beer, and stayed in simple local hotels.
Marilyn

Winning tip: traversing Italy’s Abruzzo Apennines

Abruzzo’s Valle del Sagittario snakes between narrow limestone cliffs, giving a peek into Italy’s wild heart. From vertiginous Anversa degli Abruzzi, head south to Scanno, pausing to solve its riddle of stone stairways and cobbled alleys, made famous by photographers and artists (including Maurits Cornelis Escher). Continue through mountain pastures, still traversed by shepherds and flocks and the region’s endangered brown bear population. Take a deep breath at the Godi mountain pass (1,630 metres) and relish the sparkling turquoise of Lago di Barrea below. As you begin the beech-clad descent into the national park, look out for the aptly named roadside hotel: Paradiso.
Emma de Heveningham

A TINY island off the coast of Wexford could make for one of Ireland’s most spectacular summer day trips.

The breathtaking Saltee Islands are just a two-hour drive from Dublin — with a short ferry ride from Kilmore Quay bringing visitors straight to Great Saltee.

The islands are famed for their incredible wildlife, with puffin-watching a must for anyone visiting during the summer months.

Day trippers can spend around three-and-a-half hours exploring the stunning island, spotting seabirds, seals and dramatic coastal views.

And with return ferry tickets costing €40 for adults, it could be the perfect seaside escape to kick off the summer.

The islands are located just 5km off Kilmore Quay in Co Wexford — and a 20-minute ferry trip is all it takes to get there.

HIDDEN GEM

Island with only Irish cable car, whales & dolphins near most colourful village

Parking is available at Kilmore Harbour in the free public car park.

However, the little harbour is a busy spot during the summer months.

Visitors are advised to leave plenty of time to get to Kilmore Quay as parking spaces can be limited.

The ferry service picks visitors up at the top of the harbour in Kilmore Quay, beside the boat launching slip.

It brings passengers straight to Great Saltee, as permission to visit Little Saltee cannot be granted due to hazardous landing conditions.

But visitors can only access the island during certain hours each day.

Day trippers are allowed on the island between 11am and 4.30pm, and anyone landing on a boat outside these times will be asked to leave.

The popular Saltee Ferry is a daily service that runs from April to October every year.

A return ticket costs €40 for adults and €20 for children under 12.

Each ferry can carry up to 12 passengers at a time.

Visitors are advised to arrive at the ferry gate ten minutes before the trip.

A smaller transfer boat will meet the ferry just off the shore of the island.

It picks passengers up and brings them on the final part of the journey to Great Saltee.

Once you arrive, you will be given approximately three-and-a-half hours to explore the mesmerising island.

The ferry crew will give you an exact time to be back at the landing area for the return trip to Kilmore Quay.

The ferry trip can be booked in advance online at salteeferry.com.

The Saltee Islands are known as the most famous bird sanctuary in Ireland — and puffin-watching is a must on any trip there.

Puffin season is predominantly between May and June.

There are plenty to spot, so make sure to take lots of pictures.

One visitor said: “The trip of a lifetime. There were hundreds of puffins just a short stroll from the boat. If you sit quietly they’ll wander around you.”

But Discover Ireland chiefs have warned that the puffin population is in a dangerous position, and visitors are advised to keep their distance to avoid disturbing the wonderful birds.

As well as the magnificent puffins, the island is also home to an array of seabirds, from gannets and gulls to Manx shearwaters.

While exploring the picturesque island, you might also come across some friendly sea creatures.

Grey seals are known to breed around the Saltee Islands.

It is one of the very few places in eastern Ireland with a seal population.

Up to 120 animals are present in autumn and up to 20 pups are born annually.

The seals can regularly be spotted resting on the rocks around the island.

The Saltee Islands are among the most ancient islands in Europe.

As long ago as 3,500 to 2,000BC, people were living on the islands.

In December 1943, the Saltees were purchased privately by the late Prince Michael the First.

Since his death in January 1998, the islands have been owned by his five sons and one daughter.

Permission for people to visit the island was granted by the family in recent years — but visitors are asked to respect the island.

When the family is in residence, a flag will be flying at the house — which visitors are asked not to approach.

No one is allowed to stay or camp at the historic spot, but there is no admission fee for a day trip to the island.

But island chiefs have issued a major warning to visitors.

They said: “Please do not approach the nesting birds closer than six metres.

“The footfall is having a devastating effect on the bird population. Should visitors see photographers not obeying the signs, please explain to them that they are killing the birds and to use their lens instead of their feet.

“If things do not improve with the bird population due to the current footfall, we will be forced to close the island to visitors.”

WHEN it comes to date nights, one mum doesn’t just stick to dinner instead, she travels around the world.

Oliviyah Stevens and her partner Kyle have been to Italy, Morocco and Majorca after swapping dinner dates for holidays.

Oliviyah is a mum-of-five, with her oldest child being 14 and her youngest being one.

But she doesn’t let childcare come in the way of travelling, or love life, after discovering extreme day trips.

Oliviyah and her partner Kyle also go abroad every few months for what they call ‘date day’.

Oliviyah, who hails from Walthamstow, explained why she’s been swapping dates and family days out for travel.

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She said: “Everything in London is so expensive – the price of flying to Majorca is the same as an evening meal.”

In April 2026, the couple sorted childcare for their kids and took an extreme day trip to Majorca where flights cost them just £62 each.

In comparison, the average price of a meal at a mid-range London restaurant can be £60.

If you factor in alcohol and train or tube fares, it racks up the price.

Or if you take the whole family out for dinner, you’d be looking at over £100.

During their trip to Majorca, the pair managed to explore the island and even had time to take a boat ride.

On another occasion, the couple had their three-day break to Crete cut short due to a cancelled flight.

But rather than end the trip early, the pair took advantage of their childcare and flew to Morocco instead.

The pair got to enjoy the Moroccan sunshine and were back home within 30 hours.

On another occasion, the pair travelled to Luxembourg to see the Christmas markets.

Oliviyah travels on her own too when her partner can’t go with her – but she does it in one day so she’s back in time for dinner.

Her very first extreme day trip was to Alicante which takes just over two hours on a plane.

Oliviyah said: “The trip was amazing, I had well-needed downtime, and I managed to get through at least 30 pages of my book.  

“I got the bus from the airport straight to the beach and sat on the beach for an hour.  

“Then I got hungry so I went to a café on the beach.”

In total, Oliviyah has visited 20 countries and has just added Pescara in Italy to her list where she paid £30 for a return flight. 

Her kids don’t miss out though as Oliviyah does also take them on extreme getaways – they’ve been to Italy, Morocco and Bucharest.

Oliviyah said: “My first ever extreme day trip was one with our two younger kids and my partner to Italy for the day. 

“The flight out was at 7am and we came back to London at 11pm.  

“It was for Kaius and Kenyah’s birthday who are born a year and two days apart in Bergamo.  

“We went to a theme park called Leolandia – it was a lot cheaper than going to Chessington.” 

As for how she keeps costs low Oliviyah revealed: “I scroll through Skyscanner, look at whatever is available and just book it.  

“I don’t care about anything as long as it’s affordable and the flight times are OK.”

LOOKING back on all of her recent holidays, Helen Dalling recalled all the amazing adventures she had in such a short amount of time.

Over the course of one year, she managed to do more travelling that many could wish to do in a lifetime – and she did it without breaking the bank.

Seven countries, £2,000 spent, and more memories made than anyone could dream of.

It all started when Helen decided to see how many new places she could visit for as cheap as possible – and managed to keep costs low while making the most of each new adventure.

She did this by making each trip as short as possible, with some being ‘extreme day trips’ – where you fly in and out of a country within the same 24 hours – and others being just an overnight stay.

And despite packing in a full holiday experience each time, the total cost came in at around £1,600 including flights, airport parking, any hotels, sightseeing, food and drink, and spending money.

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“I’ve always loved travelling but as I’m getting older and I’ve got kids and I work full-time, I thought ‘I’m not going to see enough countries in the world,” Helen, who is from Milton Keynes, said.

“‘If I don’t start going to see a few of them, I need to do them quick and cheap’.

“That’s really why I started doing it.”

While Helen started her extreme day tripping in 2024, it was in 2025 that she really went all out – visiting seven new countries throughout the year.
She headed to Paris, Budapest, Geneva, Split in Croatia, Prague, Amsterdam and several places in Spain in 2025.

The 55-year-old stayed just hours in some places, and spent the night in others, and visited most with friends, while others she headed to alone.

She added: “I went to seven brand new countries.

“That’s what I really wanted to do, I thought ‘I’ve never been to Hungary so let’s go to Budapest’.”

Helen says she tries to keep costs as low as possible, by regularly searching for bargains on the websites of different airlines she knows fly from her nearest airport, Luton.

She added: “When I went to Paris, I was basically just browsing on New Year’s Day, not doing much else and I spotted that you could get a flight to Paris for £13, one way and £12 the other.

“I just booked it – and then when I told a friend, she booked it too and came with me.

“The Budapest flights were about £8.99 each way, you can’t even get them that cheap anymore.

“I’ve done others that were £15-£20 return; I just book them – when I see the price, I just go for it.”

While Helen does some of her trips solo, she often has friends tag along for the day.

She says she treats her trips as “an opportunity to catch up with a friend.”

She added: “Instead of going to London for lunch, let’s go somewhere for the day.

“I did Geneva twice last year, but the second one I did at Christmas was with a real old friend of mine who is really into her food.

“So we went and did a foodie trip to the Christmas markets in Geneva and just went for the day, she’d never done one.

“Everybody that I’ve done one with has said ‘oh my God, that was amazing’.

“I’ve got a bit of a queue of people wanting to go as well, but only so much money.”

Of all her trips in 2025, Helen says her adventure to Budapest, which cost £191 for an overnight stay, was the best – particularly for its Thermal Baths.

She said: “We just fell in love with Budapest.

“Every time we did something else afterwards, I just said to my friend ‘it’s not Budapest though, is it? It’s not Budapest.’

“It was February when we did that but the sky was blue and we had the best time.

“It was super cheap and everything just worked.

“It was so lush.

“We were just sat in these massive pools of boiling hot water with the cold air on our skin, just going ‘this is amazing.’”

Helen shows no signs of slowing down with her bargain trips either, having already undertaken several in 2026.

She recently visited Palma, Mallorca with a friend, for under £120 each.

They spent the day exploring the city, visiting a sky bar restaurant for lunch, heading to the beach to swim and even stopping for iced coffee at a beach bar.

Most recently, Helen spent the night in Lithuania, and even visited Albania for the day.

She added: “ I’m always buzzing after a day trip.

“I would definitely do it again, it’s a great way to visit countries you’d never visit by going on one holiday a year.

“Last year I visited seven new countries and it’s liberating.”

The Electronic Travel Authorisation fee for British holidaymakers travelling to this holiday hotspot has been scrapped, saving Brits around £40 and making the tropical destination even more accessible this summer

Travelling to a tropical holiday destination has just become even more appealing, as Brits no longer need to fork out a tourist fee.

British holidaymakers planning to discover the stunning country of Sri Lanka won’t have to worry about shelling out an extra tourist fee, as it was abolished from Monday, 25 May. The Sri Lankan government confirmed it had made its Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) free for UK visitors, scrapping the $50 fee (around £37) in an effort to draw more tourists to the South Asian nation.

The change has come into force for the UK, along with 39 other countries. Brits planning a trip to Sri Lanka will need to apply for a free ETA, which is a type of visa, prior to departure, and will be valid for 30 days.

Those wishing to extend their time in Sri Lanka can apply online via the country’s official Immigration portal. The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office confirmed: “You do not need a visa if you are transiting through Sri Lanka by air, if the connecting flight is within 24 hours of your arrival. Check with your airlines about transit times.”

However, the FCDO also cautioned: “If you overstay the period of your ETA (30 days), you risk being subject to immigration procedures that may include temporary detention, a fine, deportation at your own expense, a travel ban or refusal of entry to Sri Lanka in the future.”

To enter Sri Lanka, British travellers must also confirm their passport has an expiry date of at least six months beyond their arrival date. Should the passport fail to meet this requirement, holidaymakers risk being turned away at the border, reports the Liverpool Echo.

While travel to Sri Lanka faced restrictions earlier this year owing to the Middle East conflict, there is presently no Foreign Office guidance advising against travel to the nation for Brits. That said, they do caution that there have been “global travel impacts due to escalation in the Middle East.”

The FCDO outlined: “Escalation in the Middle East has caused widespread travel disruption, including airspace closures, delayed and cancelled flights. Your travel plans may be affected, even if your destination is not in the Middle East.

“Some flights from Colombo to the UK via Middle Eastern hubs may be delayed, postponed, or rerouted. British nationals in Sri Lanka should check the latest updates from their airlines and consider alternative carriers or routes where necessary.”

The FCDO advises that tourists should do the following things before they travel:

• Check travel advice for any countries or territories you are transiting through
• Check for the latest updates from your airline or tour operator
• Review your travel insurance policy for coverage
• Monitor local and international media for the latest information and sign up for travel advice email alerts

For further details, visit the Foreign Office travel advice page.

The ferry operator issued an important reminder for any passengers with bookings

DFDS has issued an important reminder to passengers travelling on its ferry services. Ahead of summer, many families are looking forward to their holidays and getting everything ready for their trips. For those making ferry crossings, the operator has issued a message about ‘travel documents’ to help ensure journeys are as smooth as possible.

Posting on social media, DFDS outlined advice for customers in a post on X. In the message, @DFDSLiveUpdates shared port information for passengers. It read: “Please have all travel documents and passports to hand and open at the photo page before arriving at booths.”

In the post, DFDS explained: “Keep your passports, booking confirmations, and any necessary ID easily accessible for check-in and border control.” As such, the guidance could be helpful to any customers with upcoming bookings.

As customers will know, they need to keep a record of their confirmation. They will also want to pack their luggage accordingly, ensuring they can easily access any documents they will need when travelling.

Passengers can find more information about the check-in and boarding process on the ferry operator’s website. The boarding advice states: “All passengers must present relevant documents upon arrival to the terminal for check-in.

“These may include a valid passport, booking confirmation, documents for vehicle or pet travel, and/or other required documents, depending on the rules and regulations of country you are travelling to. Routine security checks of passengers, luggage and vehicles are carried out in all ports before you board the ship.”

DFDS also shares border control updates, including guidance on the UK eVisa and ETA. The website explains: “Travel requirements to the UK are changing.

“The UK is transitioning from physical immigration documents, such as biometric residence permits (BRPs), passports containing visa vignette stickers and ink stamps, or biometric residence cards (BRCs), to eVisas.

“If you hold a UK visa and use a physical immigration document to prove your rights, take action now by creating a UK Visas and Immigration account to access your eVisa: www.gov.uk/eVisa.

“If you already have an eVisa, ensure your travel information is up to date by notifying the UK Government about the passport you intend to use if it is not already linked to your eVisa account: www.gov.uk/update-uk-visas-immigration-account-details.

“Those who are visa-exempt for short visits to the UK, i.e. visits of up to six months, will still need to obtain an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA), which is digital permission to travel.”