trips

‘Gateways to heaven’: readers’ favourite trips in Europe’s mountains | Travel

All the fun of the funicular in Switzerland

No doubt your first thought on hearing the words “double-decker” is of a bus. But in the Swiss village of Stans, an old wooden funicular carriage ascends to the station, where a double-decker cable car awaits. Inside, a spiral staircase leads you to an open upper viewing deck. At the summit, the views back to Lucerne are superb, and there are alpine marmots to spot too. There was a wedding ceremony going on at the summit on our trip!
Martin

Liechtenstein’s Route 66

Looking across the Three Sisters. Photograph: GanzTwins/Getty Images

Steinbock, marmot and elderflower jam are in abundance on Liechtenstein’s Route 66 track – a  multi-day hike that is popular with locals, but little known to others. The route traverses the Drei Schwestern (the Three Sisters), where you’ll experience white knuckles and lush valley views. After an easy 5km hike, you land at the first mountain hut, where a succulent homemade three-course dinner awaits you. Befriend the other walkers over a game of cards, as golden hour lights up the mountains.
Inez

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Picturesque French Pyrenees

Luz Saint Sauveur is surrounded by tall peaks. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

Luz Saint Sauveur in the French Pyrenees is the gateway to heaven. Whether it be by bike, car, motorbike or on foot, stunning surroundings, wildlife-a-plenty and quaint French shops await you at this picturesque market town. Eat the local saucisson, drink the jurançon white wine, marvel at the blue skies in the shadows of the legendary Tour de France Cols, jump in canyons and be merry with the surroundings. Simply beautiful and fun for all ages.
Will

High on the hog in Donegal

Muckish is a flat-topped mountain to the north of Glenveagh national park. Photograph: Steven Granville/Getty Images

For mountain scenery without Alpine crowds, head to north-west Donegal. Errigal gets the attention, but don’t overlook flat-topped Muckish, whose name comes from the Irish for “pig’s back”. Drive the small roads around the Poisoned Glen and through Glenveagh national park, where each bend reveals another reason to stop. Allow far longer than the satnav suggests: our best moments came from pulling over for an unexpected view rather than racing between sights. Pack walking shoes and a picnic, then reward yourself afterwards in a cosy pub. Here, a mountain day can include Atlantic beaches and a well-earned pint.
Niamh Kerr

The quiet side of Italy’s Dolomites

Alpine hut Rifugio Agostini was the highlight of Ben Bryant’s trip. Photograph: Johannes 86/Getty Images

The Brenta Dolomites seem to go strangely unnoticed, while the main Dolomites heave with Instagrammers. We based ourselves in Pinzolo, an alpine town an hour north of Lake Garda, then took the lift from Madonna di Campiglio for a three-day hut-to-hut trek, tackling two via ferrata routes across knife-edge ridges and limestone spires. Rifugio Agostini was the highlight: a warm welcome and hearty mountain food after a hard day’s climbing, with jagged peaks filling every window. We descended into the town of Molveno for a well-earned aperitivo by the lake.
Ben Bryant

A spectacular climb in Kosovo

The Lumbardhi River in Prizren. Photograph: Engin Korkmaz/Alamy

After exploring Kosovo’s historic monasteries and wartime memorials, we escaped to the Sharr mountains national park, a 40-minute drive south of Prizren. The road winds through the spectacular Zhupa valley and follows the bubbling Lumbardhi river through its steep-sided gorge. At Prevallë, we left the car and began what turned out to be a strenuous climb over rocky paths and grassy slopes. We kept expecting the summit to appear, but every turn revealed another, until we finally reached our destination and were met with spectacular mountain views. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves at Hotel Krojet with coffee and a reviving glass of raki.
Roy Messenger

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Peaceful paths above Lake Como

The Via dei Monti Lariani passes close to Mount Bregagno.
Photograph: Mauritius/Alamy

This spring, my partner and I hiked the Via dei Monti Lariani, a 78-mile (125km) trail through the mountains on the western shore of Lake Como between Cernobbio and Sorico. Skirting the border between Italy and the Swiss canton of Ticino, the route passes through mountain pastures with views towards the Alps, and remote villages shaped by a history of cross-border smuggling. The accommodation is a highlight, ranging from Alpine rifugios to agriturismi, where we sampled regional specialities, including polenta uncia, polenta with local cheese and butter, and pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta with cabbage and potatoes. Quiet trails, excellent food and complex history made it an especially rewarding route.
Ross Cameron

Grand canyons of the Spanish Pyrenees

Santa Engràcia, high in the Pyrenees. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

This summer my family and I stayed at Fox House in the tiny village of Santa Engràcia in the Tremp valley, in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. Perched on a cliff edge, the beautifully renovated guest house has panoramic views, eclectic art and a warm homely feel. Laura and Carl were excellent hosts, creating a relaxed atmosphere and serving delicious evening meals. Days were a mix of poolside downtime and outdoor adventure, including rafting, mountain biking, canyon kayaking and swimming in crystal blue lakes.
Maria

Campsite with a view in Austria

Camping Grubhof is on the Saalach River. Photograph: APA/Alamy

Camping Grubhof, in the small town of Lofer between Salzburg and Zell am See, is simply beautiful. It’s an immaculate campsite, surrounded by mountains. Lofer (and the campsite) have direct access to a huge network of cycle trails as well as to the beautiful village swimming pool (free with the local access pass). Walking high in the mountains, surrounded by cows with bells is simply beautiful. Come the afternoon, there’s time for an apple strudel at a mountain hut and a glass of radler low alcohol beer. There is a camping meadow where you can pitch a tent and cabins to rent, as well as the best shower blocks I’ve come across.
Mark

Winning tip: Stars, sunsets and glaciers in Italy

Rifugio Bertone has commanding views of surrounding peaks. Photograph: Universal Images Group/Getty Images

The views over Mont Blanc from Rifugio Bertone in Italy are incredible, but it’s the whole experience that makes it special – great food, proper mountain atmosphere, and the Balconata Val Ferret has some of the best walking in the area. It’s also near Courmayeur, which is a lovely town. Arrive for sunset, watch the light move across the glaciers, then look up at the stars as Mont Blanc disappears into the darkness. A brilliant place to eat, walk, breathe and simply take in the mountains. And it’s very affordable.
Eddie Campbell

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Will flights be back to normal by the weekend? Why UK airports are still cancelling trips and what they have said

HUNDREDS of thousands of British holidaymakers have faced travel misery this week after a massive air traffic control meltdown left them stranded.

A technical glitch on Tuesday (September 8) triggered chaos at major hubs across the country, leading to the cancellation of more than 2,000 flights arriving or departing the UK.

Female air traffic controller with a headset talking on a call in an airport tower, surrounded by desktop computer displays with navigation screens and airplane flight radar data.
A technical glitch on September 8 triggered chaos at major air transport hubs across the country Credit: Getty
Passengers sit and lie on the floor of Gatwick Airport with their luggage, waiting for flights.
It lead to the cancellation of more than 2,000 flights arriving or departing the UK Credit: Getty

With the weekend fast approaching, families are wondering: “Will my holiday still go ahead, and who is footing the bill?”

Here is everything you need to know about the current travel situation, why flights have still been grounded, and what aviation bosses are saying.

Will flights be back to normal by the weekend?

The good news for weekend travellers is that the disruption has significantly eased.

Aviation analytics company Cirium confirmed that cancellations are slowing down, with schedules expected to return to normal later today (September 10).

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Thousands more passengers affected as dozens of flights grounded at UK airports

While 399 flights were cancelled or did not fly on Wednesday, only a “handful” of flights have faced the axe today.

Provided there are no further technical hiccups, weekend flight schedules should run as planned.

Why are airports still cancelling trips?

Even when an air traffic control system is fixed, the aviation network takes time to recover.

Tuesday’s four-hour outage meant that by Wednesday, planes and flight crews were stuck in the wrong locations across the globe.

This creates a “knock-on” effect that airlines have to untangle before schedules can get back on track.

London Heathrow was the worst affected airport on Wednesday, with 79 out of 666 departure flights disrupted.

British Airways (BA) took the biggest hit among airlines, seeing 88 of its 507 scheduled departures affected.

What are airlines and airports saying?

Airlines are furious about the disruption.

BA said it was “sorry” to its customers, but stressed the meltdown was “out of our control”.

Taking a swipe at air traffic bosses, a BA spokesperson said: “Our customers and colleagues are tired of dealing with these issues, time after time. This needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.”

Meanwhile, Heathrow has assured passengers that it is working with airlines to ensure the majority of flights operate normally.

But the west London hub advised all passengers to double-check with their airline for the latest information before travelling to the airport.

Will I get compensation?

If your flight was cancelled or delayed due to the outage, you’re unlikely to see a payout.

The Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) has said that the National Air Traffic Services (NATS) meltdown is considered an “extraordinary circumstance”.

Under passenger rights rules, this means airlines do not legally have to pay out compensation for delays or cancellations caused by the incident.

But airlines are still legally required to “look after” passengers, meaning they must provide food, drink, and overnight accommodation if you’re severely delayed or rebooked onto a flight the next day.

Who is to blame?

NATS chief executive Martin Rolfe is facing mounting pressure to resign over the fiasco, with Ryanair boss Michael O’Leary branding Rolfe’s position as “untenable”.

Despite the backlash, Downing Street has said it still has confidence in Rolfe, who stated he takes “full responsibility” for the outage.

Transport Secretary Heidi Alexander confirmed the outage was due to a technical issue at NATS’ Swanwick site, ruling out a cyberattack.

She told MPs she did not believe the issue was “unavoidable” and ordered the CAA to conduct an independent, six-month review into what went wrong.

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