travel

Why Milos is unforgettable

We first noticed Milos as we travelled home from Crete, flying directly above it and deciding that was where we must go next. It didn’t disappoint. The island was calm, peaceful and strikingly beautiful. Milos isn’t well known, but it should be; the true home of the Aphrodite of Melos, displayed in the Louvre, Paris as the Venus de Milo. The northern coast was spectacular, shaped by volcanic activity and particularly picturesque. Sarakiniko is the perfect stop for photographs with its white rock. Truly an unforgettable trip.
Chris Rimell

Chasing waterfalls on the Pelion peninsula

We visited the incredibly beautiful Pelion peninsula in east, central Greece, and based ourselves in the tiny town of Damouchari, staying at the Kastro Studios above the village shop with a prime position overlooking the harbour and a one-minute walk to the white pebble beach. We swam in the harbour and off the beach, snorkelling with interesting fish and crustaceans, and took a very hot walk (take plenty of water) along the coast to the Fakistra beach where we cooled off under a waterfall and my daughter spent the afternoon doing handstands in the sea. Our walks included eating home-cooked meals at tiny roadside restaurants and drinking very strong coffee under a 1,000-year-old plane tree in a village square. A perfect, slow and really memorable trip full of exploration and fun.
Layla Astley

Beach boat trips on Symi

Getting the ferry from hectic Rhodes, we had heard that something special was waiting for us on Symi. Tucked away just off the Turkish coastline, this hidden little island in the Dodecanese was the perfect place to switch off for a week. Every day was a different boat trip to a new beach, such as Marathounda Bay, with its free-ranging goats searching for scraps between the sunbeds and stones. However, the true highlights were the shaded tavernas found on the edge of each shore where we refreshed ourselves to our hearts’ content with seafood, salad and a cold Mythos.
Steve

Strolling around Venetian palazzos on Syros

Syros – the administrative capital of the Cyclades – is a wonderful place. Between relaxed strolls around Venetian palazzos (large houses) and swimming off the rocks in Ermoupoli, we got a bus to the other side of the island to Galissas beach. Here, after asking locals, we made an anecdotal map and hiked to Agios Stefanos, a chapel in a cave almost in the sea. Watching the sunset there was a magical experience. The story goes that a fisher was saved here from being dragged under the sea by a giant octopus, after praying to Saint Stephen, and so he built this chapel to thank him.
Rosie

The healing power of Hydra

After my mum, June, died, our family decided to go somewhere warm of heart and chose Hydra in the Saronic Gulf, off the east coast of the Peloponnese. Still rumpled from our flight, we took a ferry from Piraeus and sailed off towards a kindly family hotel, the Hydroussa. A tiny, car-free island with a long history was explored in an afternoon. We mostly just took dips (in the clearest seas I’ve ever swum in), read, ate, remembered and gently healed.
Dawn

An archaeological gem near Preveza

The little-known archaeological site of ancient Kassopi was one highlight of our visit to the charming little port of Preveza, on the central west coast. The mountainside was drowning in wildflowers, and the bees, butterflies and lizards were our only companions – apart from the warden who seemed agreeably surprised to see us. We had the entire site to ourselves and wandering through the remains of the city and its third-century BC theatre, with an azure sea in the background, was an unforgettably romantic and quintessentially Greek experience. Later that day, we went dolphin-watching in the Ambracian Gulf, followed by wonderful Preveza prawns for dinner.
Gerald Willmore

Back in time on Antiparos

Most guidebooks recommend doing a day trip to Antiparos from Paros, its much bigger neighbour, but we stayed for five days – the best decision of our trip to the Cyclades. Like stepping back decades into a much less-touristed Greece, the island has a modest beauty and peaceful aura that charmed and calmed us. We stayed in Statheros Garden and enjoyed morning dips in the turquoise waters at Panagia beach, just a few metres away. Paros is only a few minutes away by ferry so there’s plenty of scope for exploring beyond beautiful Antiparos Town and Sifneiko bay.
Alice

Amorgos is as epic as in the Big Blue

The Big Blue is a film I have watched countless times and seeing the 11th-century monastery of Amorgos rise out of the rock face as Eric Serra’s soundtrack kicks in has stayed with me. Seeing it in real life when I travelled to this most charming of Greek islands was truly unforgettable.
Ed Simpson

A true adventure on Kefalonia and Ithaca

As a boy, I went to Kefalonia with my parents and stayed in the fishing village of Fiskardo in the north. Beautiful beaches, fantastic food and sun aplenty, yet a highlight for me was hiring a small motorboat with my father and darting across the bay to the island of Ithaca. We may have got a little carried away exploring, leading to us running out of fuel and having to be rescued! Nevertheless, it was a true adventure. My father passed in 2022, and our speedboat adventure is a memory I hold dear to this day.
Dan Law-Jones

Winning tip: wildlife deep in the Vikos gorge

We’ve just returned from a road trip in beautiful northern Greece, a highlight of which was the awe-inspiring Vikos gorge – the deepest gorge in Europe by ratio of depth to width. We frequently saw tortoises trundling along on our hiking route through the gorge, and also had a brief encounter with a horned viper (one of Europe’s most venomous snakes), underlining the array of wild creatures that are resident here, which include brown bears, wolves, Egyptian vultures and wild boar. We enjoyed the tranquility of the Voidomatis Springs, a crystal clear pool at the bottom of the gorge. It’s a perfect place for a dip if you’re feeling brave – the water is a bracing 4-7C year round!
Beatrice

Like many outdoors lovers, I love a last-minute camping trip.

There’s a special kind of magic when the stars align, you snag a reservation and realize you’ll soon be sleeping under the stars in a place you’ve never been.

But given the popularity of California’s campgrounds, is it really possible to book a campsite on short notice? In this edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will explain not only how you can but also where you will be more likely to find open spots (even, if lucky, on a holiday weekend).

L.A. sits within a quick drive to both the San Gabriel and Santa Monica mountains, two expansive ranges that offer multiple opportunities.

But first, I want to share what I learned in my conversation with Mike Lee, owner of Campsite Tonight, a website and app that monitors campgrounds throughout California for cancellations so its users can book sites.

One of the expansive views of the San Gabriel Mountains that can be found at Chilao Campground.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I’ve long been a skeptic of using private websites to book a campsite on public lands. But given Lee is an avid camper, dad and Californian running the site on his own, I wanted to hear him out.

Lee was motivated to take over Campsite Tonight a few years ago after finding himself frequently frustrated with how challenging it was to book campsites at state and national parks in California at times when his busy family could take a vacation.

Campsite Tonight frequently scans several websites throughout California and several other states (including Utah for those dreaming of a trip to Zion National Park). His site checks the popular campgrounds every 12 seconds for cancellations while less popular campgrounds are scanned often but less frequently.

He also offers data for popular campsites too, so users can learn more about when to look. For example, at Yosemite’s Upper Pines Campground, Lee includes that 11 a.m. Pacific is the peak hour when cancellations appear (and about 31% of reservations there are booked within seven days of arrival).

A tent in the evening light at Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite National Park.

(William Hale Irwin / For The Times)

Lee’s app offers limited-but-still-useful features to free users, including some ability to search for open sites, and is $29.99 a month or $59.99 a year for advanced features, including the option to more rapidly book a campsite at a national park by essentially linking your Campsite account with your Recreation.gov account.

Running the website has “taught me, as I’ve looked at the data more and more, that last-minute camping is actually pretty achievable,” Lee said while sitting inside a tent in a campground near Yosemite. “The biggest thing is being flexible. Before, if I didn’t book it in advance or if I didn’t get [a site when I wanted], I would never look again. Now I look more.”

Lee said he’s noticed fewer cancellations on long weekends, although there will still be families that can’t make their trips. After we initially spoke, Lee built a page specifically to scan for campsites available over Fourth of July weekend. I was surprised by just how much remained open.

Leo Carrillo State Beach.

(Mike Cilantro / For The Times)

Scanning the page on Tuesday, I noticed a spot at Leo Carrillo State Park. Although it was for Wednesday night, I was tempted. Multiple campsites remained open in Los Padres National Forest, even over the weekend. A random campground in Sequoia National Forest made me look at just how far of a drive it would be from my apartment. And I noticed there was even a spot free at a Big Sur campground on Sunday evening. “No, you can’t, er, you shouldn’t drive that far for one night of camping,” I told myself. (Should I, though?)

That said, there are several first-come, first-served campgrounds near L.A., especially in Angeles National Forest, for those who’d like to stay closer to home or can’t find something online.

Here is a quick guide to what I recommend trying to snag. Given it’s a holiday weekend, it will still be more challenging, but if you can leave early Friday, I don’t think it’ll be impossible to camp at one of these spots.

For those looking for simple car camping (beginner)

A campsite at Chilao Campground with a large campfire ring.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Each of these campgrounds are in Angeles National Forest, offer piped water and vault toilets, and have sites with picnic tables, parking spots and campfire rings.

• Chilao Campground: A large campground with 84 sites spread over two loops, Little Pines and Manzanita. Its landscape features large boulders, sweeping views and pine trees (especially the eponymous loop). Piped water is available, although it is at times turned off, so please check the campground website before heading out. The Chilao Visitor Center, open on the weekends, is nearby.

A campsite in Chilao Campground shaded by several pine trees.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

• Crystal Lake: A 120-site campground north of Azusa. It sits at 5,539-feet elevation and features great views of nearby peaks, including Mt. Islip and Windy Gap. Visitors can fish in Crystal Lake when it’s deep enough and find a hot meal at Crystal Lake Cafe and General Store.
• Monte Cristo: A campground with 19 individual drive-in sites, including some with large shady sycamore trees. A small seasonal creek runs through the middle of the campground and has small pools in spring and early summer. (Note: Because of its proximity to L.A., this one can fill up quickly.)

For adventurers willing to plan just a bit, even last minute (intermediate)

Oak Flat Campground.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

These sites offer their own escape, but because they lack potable water (unless otherwise noted) and are farther away from L.A., they require more planning than those on the “beginner” list. Each site has picnic tables and campfire rings. The campgrounds below are in Angeles National Forest unless otherwise noted.

• Horse Flats: A shaded 26-site campground that offers easy access to nearby trails, including Mt. Hillyer and the Silver Moccasin Trail.
• Oak Flat: A campground north of Castaic just off the 5 Freeway with 20 sites situated around a nice small meadow shaded by several oak trees.
• Musch Trail Camp: This small-but-charming backpacking campground in Topanga State Park features flush toilets and sinks and requires only a one-mile hike in, a trek that’s on the easier end of moderate.
• Sawmill: A rustic eight-site campground whose main challenge, outside of its lack of water, is just reaching it, as campers must take a steep gravel road off Pine Canyon Road (see website for information on road closure).

For experienced trekkers looking for quick escapes (expert)

One of a handful of sites at the Valley Forge Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

These backpacking sites offer backcountry adventures for those with the time and the right gear.

• Glenn Camp: A 10-site forested haven next to the West Fork of the San Gabriel River that’s reached via a seven-mile paved road that can be hiked or biked; no restrooms available, so campers will need to follow Leave No Trace principles.
• Valley Forge: Reachable via 2.4-mile hike along the Gabrielino Trail from Red Box Picnic Area, this six(ish)-site campground has picnic tables, campfire rings, vault toilets and is a sylvan refuge of mighty pines next to the pristine West Fork of the San Gabriel River.
• Cooper Canyon: A backcountry campground shaded by towering old pine trees with about five sites, offering vault toilets, campfire rings, klamath stoves, large picnic tables and bear-proof boxes. Because of the Angeles Crest Highway closure, you will need to reach the site either by walking the closed road or Pacific Crest Trail.

Regardless of where and when you go, I hope you have a wonderful time enjoying our public lands. Please remember to practice the Leave No Trace principles and, in short, leave it cleaner than you found it!

3 things to do

A volunteer waters plants in the nursery at North East Trees in Ascot Hills Park in El Sereno.

(William Hallstrom)

1. Restore native plants in Ascot Hills
North East Trees, a climate resiliency nonprofit, needs volunteers from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday at its native plant nursery in Ascot Hills Park (4371 Multnomah St.). Participants will get hands-on experience working with native plants as they help water and restore habitat. Learn more at the group’s Instagram page.

2. Sketch plankton in Playa del Rey
Nature Nexus Institute, an environmental equity nonprofit, will host two beach ecology sketching events: an online option Tuesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. and then an in-person event on July 12 in Playa del Rey. Learn more at the group’s Instagram page.

3. Check out the birds in Calabasas
Two National Park Service volunteers will host an easy bird walk from 8:30 to 10 a.m. Saturday at King Gillette Ranch in Calabasas. Participants will walk less than a mile at an easy pace, stopping often to observe the birds. Children are welcome. Register at eventbrite.com.

The must-read

A visitor walks on the Redwood Canopy Trail at Trees of Mystery in Klamath.

(Andrew Cullen / For The Times)

If you’re sitting there, daydreaming over your next adventure, consider this California wildlife factoid: Our state is home to 139,000 acres of protected public lands where nearly half of the world’s remaining old-growth redwood forests live. The allure of walking beneath these giants is what drew writer Edwin Goei to head to Humboldt County. Goei maps out a guide for The Times of how an Angeleno can make the long-but-worthy trip there (including how to snag an $80 round-trip flight). “I learned that Humboldt County — including the cities of Eureka, Arcata and Ferndale — is full of treasures beyond its abundance of the Earth’s tallest trees,” Goei wrote.

Excuse me while I go research flights there.

Happy adventuring,

P.S.

You have until Monday to snag a free California State Parks Historian Passport. In honor of both Juneteenth and the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, the state is offering the pass — which typically costs $50 — to anyone who registers for it through ReserveCalifornia.com, but just for a few more days. The pass will be good through the rest of 2026 and will allow unlimited entry for up to four people to state historic parks and museums that charge a per-person admission fee or a vehicle day-use fee. I was amazed that it took less than 10 seconds once I was logged into my ReserveCalifornia account to secure my pass. Enjoy!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

IF you’re dreaming of sun-soaked beaches, crystal-clear waters, and glam hotels but your bank account is saying otherwise, you don’t have to cancel your summer plans just yet.

While traditional holiday hotspots like Spain and Greece are reliable, they are becoming increasingly expensive.

Luckily, there’s a handful of stunning European destinations offering amazing holiday vibes for a fraction of the cost.

How about the white sand beaches of Albania, or the affordable resorts of Montenegro

We’ve rounded up three incredible, wallet-friendly European countries where your money stretches further.

This means spectacular package holiday deals starting from just £159pp.

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Albania

Bathed in sunshine for over 300 days a year, Albania offers stunning natural landscapes, sweeping beaches and cheap hotels that feel ultra-luxurious.

The coastline blends the dramatic, rugged scenery of the Balkans with the sparkling, turquoise waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas.

Your budget stretches remarkably far here compared to holiday hotspots like the Greece or Italy.

For a mix of golden beaches and historical sites, head to Durres, where you can climb the Venetian Tower or explore Roman ruins for free.

For wallet-friendly restaurants and stunning landscapes, try Sarande, which is home to the Butrint National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with scenic thick forest overlooking the shore.

Or head to Vlore to stroll its pretty old town lined with boutique cafes and shops, hop on a boat trip to visit stunning sea caves and stay in one of its super glam hotels for a very affordable price.

OUR TOP DEAL

The four-star Ames Hotel & Spa in Vlore is a glamorous hotel with its own private beach and spa.

It’s a small, friendly hotel that is perfect for couples, where you can spend your days taking beach walks and unwinding in the sauna and steam bath.

The deal we’ve found is for early October, which would still be nice and warm with temperatures sitting at 24°C.

The five night stay with breakfast at the Ames Hotel & Spa in Vlore, including return flights from London Luton, is for £219pp.

Montenegro

More and more Brits are catching on to Montenegro as their next holiday destination, with its other-worldly beaches and affordable package holidays.

Budva is a buzzing coastal spot with a walled medieval Old Town to explore, and even an island you can visit called Sveti Nikola dubbed by locals as ‘Hawaii Island’.

For a spot of sunbathing, head to Mogren Beach, where towering limestone cliffs shelter two sandy coves with turquoise waters.

Similarly, spots like Ulcinj and Bar are great value coastal towns – Ulcinj is home to Velika Plaza, or ‘Long Beach’, an eight-mile stretch of sand with shallow waters to paddle in and activities like kite boarding.

While Bar is home to unique attractions like Red Beach, a cove with a maroon-coloured shore, and King Nikola’s Palace, a castle-turned-museum surrounded by lush green gardens.

Visit Becici for endless golden beaches dotted with loungers, activities like paragliding and paddleboarding, and high-end hotels for cheap.

OUR TOP DEAL

The Eurostars Queen of Montenegro hotel is in Becici, where a pristine stretch of beach is backed by a line of luxurious yet affordable hotels, visited by the likes of Madonna and Angelina Jolie.

The hotel itself has a huge wellness zone with a Turkish bath, tropical shower, saunas and whirlpool – as well as a sprawling outdoor infinity pool.

Rooms alone usually cost between £200 – £250 per night, however we’ve found a very affordable deal.

We found a deal for a five night stay with breakfast at the Eurostars Queen of Montenegro in Becici, including return flights from London Stansted, for £325pp.

Bulgaria

You might already know about Sunny Beach, but Bulgaria is home to a whole host of affordable coastal resorts that you may never have heard of.

Just south of Sunny Beach, Nessebar is the affordable and arguably more beautiful neighbour.

Both the north and south beach offer soft sands and clear, shallow water – plus a strip of seafront bars and restaurants that feel less chaotic than the party vibes of

This ancient city feels like an open air museum, with and Old Town packed with 20 ancient Byzantine churches and a fascinating ancient fortifications.

Further up the coast you’ll find Golden Sands, a resort that earns its name with a two-mile beach backed by a buy promenade lined with buzzy restaurants and seafront bars.

This family-friendly resort town also has plenty of attractions and activities like Aquapolis Water Park and off-road buggies.

OUR TOP DEAL

Perla Golden Sands is an action-packed, family-friendly hotel backed by the vibrant greenery of a natural park.

The hotel has plenty to do for kids, including an adventure playground, kids club, evening shows and activities like table tennis and horse riding.

And a week-long holiday is an absolute bargain.

We found a deal for a seven night stay with breakfast at the Perla Golden Sands with return flights from London Luton for £209pp.

*Prices correct at the time of publication.

A hiker has shared a video of herself exploring a stunning coastal town which is just over an hour’s train journey from London and offers visitors the luxury of a hidden beach with its own shipwreck

A hiker has highlighted a breathtaking town which boasts a secluded beach complete with its own shipwreck. Zoe Tehrani, who is based in the London, posted footage of herself climbing down a rusty ladder onto the shingle beach before setting off on a winding trail across the cliff face.

“There might also be a creepy tunnel that used to be a smuggling route,” she enthused in a TikTok video. Zoe went on to describe her journey, explaining she boarded the train at London St. Pancras and travelled for 66 minutes.

The town she visited is Dover, which has a railway station located just a 10-minute walk from the coastline. “It’s not the most scenic to get there, but at least there’s a mist tunnel along the way,” Zoe continued.

“I followed signs for the White Cliffs of Dover, passed colourful houses, headed up the chunky hill then at the top the trail levelled out nicely.”

Zoe then aimed her camera down towards the beach, and headed off once more on another winding trail, making a steady descent. She warned that inside the smugglers’ tunnel there are no lights, which is “a little bit creepy”.

“There’s a few things you need to know about this beach,” she added. “It’s underwater at high tide, so it needs to be out a bit – and you don’t want to sit [directly] below the cliffs because they are crumbling.”

Zoe decided to take a swim in the Channel, which meant carefully picking her way through seaweed to reach the water.

“You definitely want sea shoes for this one,” she suggested. “And it’s much nicer to get in when the tide is a little higher, so I chilled for a bit, had some lunch and then it was perfect.”

The White Cliffs of Dover paths are managed by the National Trust, which advises online: “There is a wheelchair-friendly footpath that leads to a viewing point, ideal if you just want a short route to see the famous cliffs.

“This all-weather path is built with a staggered incline, which allows for a few breathers on the way up. At the top is one of the best views of the cliffs, with the rolling green landscape and sheer chalk edge, dropping to the sea below.”

Venturing further along gives walkers a choice of routes, which are steeper closest to the cliff edge and more gentle further inland.

“These will take you to Fan Bay Deep Shelter and South Foreland Lighthouse,” the National Trust continues. “Beyond the lighthouse, you can continue walking the coast path to St Margaret’s, Kingsdown, or even Walmer or Deal.

“The ground can be uneven and the weather unpredictable, so please wear stout shoes and dress appropriately.”

Responding to Zoe’s clip, one TikTok user commented: “[I] went. Worth it for the views and the challenge but the beach/water is pretty bad. And the ladder was so scary, almost vertical.”

While a second person praised: “Stunning area.”

One British expat was left completely overwhelmed and exhausted after ditching her life in the UK, and revealed what no one talks about when making such a huge change

Many of us have contemplated what it would be like to ditch the UK and move abroad. One Brit who made it a reality found the move came with surprises and heartbreaking challenges.

Maria Randall, who hails from London, had been on a spontaneous three-day holiday with her husband when they made the brave decision to leave the UK in favour of sun-soaked Croatian rays. Just three weeks later, with their dog in tow, the couple boarded a one-way flight in the summer of 2023, filled with excitement ahead of their new life on the Adriatic coast.

But the reality of the mega move quickly sank in, and Maria found herself overwhelmed and drained.

“I was exhausted,” the 54-year-old told creatorzine.com. “People imagine moving abroad is exciting and glamorous, but I felt strangely numb. Everything had happened so quickly that I had barely had time to process it. I was excited, scared and wondering whether I had completely lost my mind.”

Even Maria’s first solo trip to the supermarket left her in tears as she got lost when Google Maps stopped working and felt deflated on arrival. And sadly, things didn’t get any better.

“I did not recognise any of the products on the shelves,” she recalled. “Something as simple as buying food suddenly felt difficult.”

Feeling overwhelmed and peckish, Maria innocently grabbed a cereal bar as she walked around the shop, only to be met with a furious local. “A man started shouting at me in Croatian, and I burst into tears,” Maria said.

“Later, I realised he worked for the supermarket and probably thought I was trying to steal the cereal bar before paying for it.

“Looking back now, it is funny. At the time, I wanted to get on a plane and go home. Coming from Britain, I was used to quieter and more reserved interactions. I genuinely thought people were arguing all the time. It took me a while to realise that what sounded aggressive to me was often just a normal conversation.”

As the couple began to settle into their new life in Croatia, their beloved dog sadly died shortly after the move. “Everything still felt unfamiliar and unsettled, and suddenly I was dealing with the loss of a much-loved family member as well,” she said.

Tragedy struck again when Maria lost her younger brother and mum, all within an 18-month period. She shared: “Nobody really talks about that side of living abroad. People see the sea, the sunshine and the photographs, but they do not see what it feels like when major family events happen hundreds of miles away.”

In addition to the family losses, Maria, who is severely lactose intolerant, faced her own health battles and was rushed to the hospital following a dairy contamination incident. “Being in an ambulance and then a hospital environment where I struggled to understand what was happening around me was one of the most frightening experiences I have had since moving here”, she revealed.

Despite the challenges and setbacks, things turned a corner. “I began to understand the culture. I started to appreciate the people,” Maria said.

“I made friends, many of them fellow expats who understood exactly what it was like to start again in a new country.” Maria even found herself taking on an unexpected business venture by running her own boat tour company, Island Discovery.

She explained: “It started as a conversation, then somehow I had a boat, then a website, then a skipper, then our first guest.” Maria’s skipper, Pasko, is actually someone she had met on a boat trip soon after arriving in Croatia.

“We stayed in touch, and when I launched Island Discovery, he was the first person I asked to join me”, she said. “Today I joke that he is my Croatian son.”

Maria has now settled into her life in the beautiful seaside town of Podstrana near Split, and is busy running boat tours around the Croatian coastline. Her love for the Adriatic Sea is part of why she stayed through the challenges she faced.

“There is something magical about the Adriatic,” she said. “The colour of the water still amazes me, and some mornings when I am walking my Jack Russell, Sid, along the coastline, I spot dolphins in the distance. Those moments never get old.”

While she misses parts of the UK, including Wagamama and “a proper Chinese takeaway”, Croatia has firmly become their home. “It is where I have built a business, it is where I have made friendships, it is where I walk Sid every morning,” Maria shared.

Today, she believes that many people underestimate the realities of uprooting their lives abroad. She also noted that Croatia has changed significantly in recent years, with higher rents, rising food and restaurant prices, and a “huge amount of development taking place”.

“Everywhere I look, there are new apartment blocks, villas and construction projects appearing, she said. “Personally, I think Croatia has changed significantly since joining the EU and later adopting the euro, although that’s just my observation.”

Despite this, it’s the place where Maria “rediscovered” herself and now calls home. “When I moved here, I thought I knew exactly who I was. What I did not expect was to spend my fifties learning about websites, social media, marketing, accounting, boating and how to build a business from scratch,” she explained.

“I realised I was tougher than I thought. I learned not to let other people dictate my mood. I learned to laugh at myself when things go wrong. Looking back, I do not think Croatia simply changed where I live. I think it changed who I am.”

Looking back, Maria said: “If I could give one piece of advice to the version of myself boarding that Croatia Airlines flight in July 2023, it would simply be, ‘buckle up, it will be one hell of a ride’.”

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

ANOTHER UK travel firm has entered administration after 15 years.

Travel Bespoke Ltd, which also operated under Chalet Bespoke, Ski Bespoke and Spa Bespoke, had closed after more than a decade of selling ski and chalet holidays.

According to The Herald, the company use to offer “bespoke luxury ski experiences”.

Many of the packages were to ski resorts across Austria, France, Switzerland, Canada and the USA.

And the packages could be booked with or without flights.

As for the chalet trips, many featured luxury accommodation with some including spa stays.

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It comes as the Midhurst, Sussex holiday company stopped being an ATOL (Air Travel Organisers’ Licensing) holder, which is the UK financial protection scheme that is run by the UK Civil Aviation Authority (CAA).

Due to this, anyone that had a holiday booked with the company will be refunded.

ATOL reported at the end of May that they had “contacted the affected ATOL protected consumers directly”.

It added: “If you have not been contacted and believe you are entitled to a claim against an ATOL protected booking, please supply your booking details with supporting documentation by email to claims@caa.co.uk”.

Travel Bespoke Ltd is one of numerous travel companies that have gone out of business this year.

Earlier this week Groupia Ltd – which focused on group trips such as hen and stag dos as well as weekend getaways – entered administration after 24 years, cancelling some holidays.

Other UK travel firms that have entered administration this year include luxury holiday firm Salamander Voyages with yacht holidays across Greece, Italy, Croatia, and Turkey as well as Regen Central Ltd, which used to sell package holidays.

A MAJOR airport in the UK is launching new overnight weekend trains for the first time.

Late-night airport passengers no longer need to break the bank to hail a cab.

Thousands of travellers heading to and from London Stansted Airport will soon be able to catch trains through the night.

Stansted Express is launching a trial overnight service that will run every Friday night into Saturday morning from July 3.

The new service is aimed at passengers travelling on late-night and early-morning flights during the busy summer holiday season.

During the summer trial, trains will run every 30 minutes between 11.30pm and 5am, linking Stansted Airport with Tottenham Hale and London Liverpool Street.

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Most of the overnight trains will operate between Stansted Airport and Tottenham Hale, where passengers can connect with the Victoria line Night Tube to continue their journeys across London.

A handful of early morning services will also start from, or continue to, London Liverpool Street.

The journey from Stansted Airport to Tottenham Hale takes around 36 minutes, providing a quick link into the capital.

Rail Minister Lord Peter Hendy, said: “These overnight Stansted Express services will make a real difference to people arriving late or travelling for early flights – connecting them straight into London via the Night Tube.

“Alongside contactless ticketing at every London airport, we’re building a railway that works for passengers and drives growth across the country.”

The trial will be running until September 25, giving flyers more transport options during the busy holiday season.

Stansted Express will evaluate how many passengers use the late-night trains during the trial before deciding whether to make them permanent.

I was lucky enough to visit this gorgeous island and I can’t wait to go back.

Summer is here, and with that comes summer holidays. Living in the UK, we’re blessed to have Europe on our doorstep – but with so many options, how can you decide where you want to go? There’s the popular spots of course, places like Barcelona in Spain or Mykonos in Greece.

However, these destinations can quickly become overrun with other tourists who have had the same idea as you and what should have been a relaxing break can soon become an overcrowded nightmare.

Luckily, there are plenty of places that are just as beautiful but without the sky-high price tag and teeming crowds. One such place is a charming Greek island, just a few hours ferry ride from the bustling capital of Athens.

I was lucky enough to visit this island a few years ago, and it absolutely blew my mind.

It’s got the bright blue and shining white buildings that are iconic of Greece, as well as the crystal clear beaches – some of which look like they’ve been plucked straight from another planet.

There’s charm in every corner of the cobbled streets, as well as delicious food and laid-back beachfront bars.

This paradise is Paros, a pear-shaped island in the middle of the Aegean Sea. It’s the perfect spot to base yourself if you fancy a bit of island hopping, with its even quieter sister island, Antiparos, just minutes away by boat.

When you step off the boat at the main Paros port in Parikia, you are greeted by gorgeous beaches and a market square lined with tavernas and bars.

Bougainvillaea grows across the narrow streets, and there are plenty of boutique shops to explore, too.

Sleepy cats wander to and fro across the alleys, and if you fancy taking a day trip, you can hire a car, scooter or even a buggy to travel across the island to the other village of Naoussa.

Here, the town buzzes with life, and you can eat some of the tastiest seafood, freshly caught. It’s also home to one of the island’s most stunning beaches.

Kolymbithres looks alien due to its large, clay rock formations that line the bright blue, calm ocean.

If you fancy it, you can hire a sunbed – but the rock formations make a perfectly good bed in of themselves.

Some sections are small enough for one or two, while other, larger recesses can fit dozens. It’s a fabulous place to spend the day, dipping in and out of the water and sunning yourself on the white-washed cliffs that surround it.

Behind the bay, there are a few bars and taverns where you can buy drinks and snacks, then carry them back over to the beach. Make sure to take all your rubbish with you to avoid spoiling this beautiful bay.

YOU could soon have a staycation at a racetrack that has hosted Formula 1 stars.

Clay Pigeon Raceway near Dorchester is soon being demolished to make way for 226 chalets for a holiday park.

The karting track was once used by F1 drivers Lando Norris, Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button at the start of their careers.

The racetrack is also home to a disused clay pigeon shooting ground, hence the name and a caravan park.

Little details have been revealed about what the holiday park would be like and if the racetrack would be kept, though in addition to the 226 chalets, the George Albert hotel will also be expanded.

The racetrack has been open since the 1950s and was built on the grounds of a disused World War II military hospital.

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It stretches 815 metres in total and, according to its website, has hosted nearly every major championship to tour the UK.

There is also an onsite cafe.

Visitors could head to the track and try out karting, with different options for adults and juniors.

The track is also home to Motorsport Hub, with a pit area, professional timing systems for races and even a spares shop.

Events planned for this year will go ahead as planned including the Daniel Ricciardo Series which is a UK-based karting championship that the former F1 driver launched back in 2019.

Dan Parker, head of Karting Motorsport UK, told councillors: “The venue has played an important part in British karting for decades and has supported the development of competitors, officials and volunteers, clubs and all their families throughout the south west and far beyond.”

A NEW “world-class” arena is being plotted for an iconic UK seaside resort.

The Government has pledged £20million to explore the possibility of bringing the development to life.

A new indoor arena has been proposed for Blackpool, as part of the area’s continued bid to become the UK’s City of Culture for 2029.

Currently dubbed the Phoenix Pavilion Arena, the venue would become the focal point of the city’s wider regeneration strategy.

With a proposed capacity of 15,000 to 20,000, Carters Building Consultancy said the site would host major concerts, sporting events, festivals, trade shows and live performances.

It would also create a new waterfront hospitality area, with cafes, bars and restaurants facing the promenade.

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Blackpool South MP, Chris Webb, began a petition in November last year supporting the proposal, which has since been signed by thousands of local residents.

As a result, the Culture Secretary, Lisa Nandy, has now pledged £20million to explore the next stage of the development.

Webb said: “This funding gives Blackpool the opportunity to properly test whether the project is commercially viable and put us in the strongest possible position to attract an experienced private-sector partner with the expertise to develop, operate and programme a world-class venue.

“It has the potential to attract visitors throughout the year, support our hotels, restaurants and local businesses, create high-quality jobs and strengthen Blackpool’s position as the UK’s entertainment capital.”

The investment will assess whether the construction of the arena is financially feasible and whether it would be the right investment for the area.

It also places the proposal in a better position to attract private investors.

This comes as part of Blackpool’s £2billion regeneration program set to transform the seaside city.

Completed projects include the Talbot Road tramway extension – which connected the Promenade to Blackpool North railway station – and construction is currently underway on a new £65million, high-tech university campus.

THE best islands in the world have been revealed and there is one in the UK that snuck into the top 50.

The 50 Best Islands in the World was revealed by Big 7, having run for seven years.

The study looks at everything from popularity on social media and travel trends to insights from the editorial team.

And coming in no.1 was Sri Lanka which was praised for “having it all”.

It said: “Whiling away blissful days beach-hopping along the 833-mile coastline is part of the charm, but Sri Lanka offers much more beyond the shore.

“Itineraries fill up quickly here, between the timeworn temples, colonial towns, misty mountains, and wildlife safaris in Yala National Park, home to tigers and elephants.”

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The Sun’s Assistant Travel Editor Sophie Swietochowski recently visited and said: “It was the off-grid excursions that gave me a real sense of what this region was truly about – a half-day cooking experience was just my cup of tea.

“And one night, an elephant stepped out from some undergrowth and plods slowly into the oncoming traffic, where drivers pulled to a casual halt until the lumbering giant disappeared.”

However, the only UK island to make the list was the Isle of Mull in Scotland, coming in 23rd place.

Making the list for its “rugged coastline and unexpectedly white sand,” it added: ” It’s an island of contrasts – where highland cows bathe in the calm, crystal-clear sea, and foamy waters crash into basalt columns.”

The island has everything from the coloured houses of Tobermory, as well as dolphin and seal watching – and even fluffy highlands cows on the beach.

While Mull was the only UK island to make the list, the nearby Achill Island in Ireland came in 8th.

It made the top 10 for its “soft pink sunrises and turquoise seas to moss-green hills and fiery sunsets.”

Europe fared well too, with many in the top 20 including Madeira (4th), Milos (10th), Ischia (15th), Ibiza (17th) and Corsica (18th).

Popular islands Brits will know such as Jamaica was in 19th, while Bali was in 20th and Mauritius was 24th.

Sardinia, Hvar and Key West all just made it into the top 50.

World’s 50 Best Islands

1. Sri Lanka
2. Mo’orea, French Polynesia
3. Socotra, Yemen
4. Madeira
5. The Galapagos, Ecuador
6. Great Exuma, Bahamas
7. Seychelles
8. Achill Island, Ireland
9. Koh Lipe, Thailand
10. Milos, Greece
11. Raja Ampat Islands, Indonesia
12. Madagascar
13. Ilha Grande, Brazil
14. Kangaroo Island, Australia
15. Ischia, Italy
16. Dominica
17. Ibiza
18. Corsica
19. Jamaica
20. Bali, Indonesia
21. Koh Rong, Cambodia
22. Yasawas, Fiji
23. Mull, Scotland
24. Mauritius
25. Salt Spring Island, Canada
26. Yoron Island, Japan
27. Munroe Island, India
28. Unguja (Zanzibar Island), Tanzania
29. Haida Gwaii, Canada
30. Sal, Cape Verde
31. Cocos Island, Costa Rica
32. Cuba
33. San Juan Islands, USA
34. Sardinia, Italy
35. Jeju Island, South Korea
36. Siargao, Philippines
37. Greenland
38. Caye Caulker, Belize
39. La Gomera, Spain
40. Hvar, Croatia
41. Isla Mujeres, Mexico
42. Waiheke Island, New Zealand
43. Benguerra Island, Mozambique
44. Hydra, Greece
45. Bozcaada, Turkey
46. Key West, Florida, USA
47. Mentawai Islands, Indonesia
48. Barbados
49. Eysturoy Island, Faroe Islands
50. Bissagos Islands, Guinea

The travel company was founded back in 2011 and operated three separate websites offering chalets, skiing breaks, and spa holidays. ATOL has now offered advice for any consumers who had breaks booked

A UK travel firm that offered a range of ski and spa holidays has ceased trading, with customers who have booked a package holiday being urged to take action.

Travel Bespoke Ltd was launched in 2011, and traded under three names: Chalet Bespoke, Ski Bespoke, and Spa Bespoke. The firm’s websites are now unavailable. The company was based in an office in Midhurst, West Sussex.

Ski Bespoke’s X page, which is currently still active, described the firm’s operations as offering bespoke ski trips to resorts in Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland, Canada and USA.

Financial protection scheme ATOL (Air Travel Organisers’ Licensing), confirmed in a statement that the company had ceased trading as an ATOL holder as of May 29. It said: “We have contacted the affected ATOL protected consumers directly. If you have not been contacted and believe you are entitled to a claim against an ATOL protected booking, please supply your booking details with supporting documentation by email to claims@caa.co.uk.”

The time limit for making a claim to ATOL is May 28, 2027. Its statement went on to explain: “Bookings sold as accommodation only, non-flight Packages & Cruise Only bookings which do not include a flight element are not covered by the ATOL scheme. Please contact your travel insurance or card issuer for further assistance.”

ATOL also has a claims information page where customers can check whether the holiday they’ve booked would come under ATOL protection, or whether they’ll need to look for alternative ways to claim their money back.

Travel Bespoke is not the only travel firm to go bust in recent weeks. Long-running firm Groupia Ltd recently went into administration after 24 years in operation. The company who operated brands including Groupia Golf, GoHen, StagWeb, Groupia School Trips, and Company Away Day, served over 750,000 holidaymakers before going bust.

By law, any UK travel company that sells holidays or flights is required to have an Air Travel Organiser’s Licence (ATOL) number, so always check your holiday is booked with a reputable firm.

This means that if the holiday firm you’ve booked with goes bust before you travel, you can apply to the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) for a full refund. If you’re already on holiday, the CAA has a responsibility to get you home.

However, you should also make sure you have travel insurance that covers a travel firm going into administration, as this can also cover additional expenses from having your holiday cancelled or being stuck abroad. Credit card protection can also be helpful in this situation. If you’ve paid for your holiday or flights on a credit card directly with the holiday company or airline, and spent over £100, you may be able to claim the money back through your credit card company.

Mastercard and Visa debit cards also have a chargeback scheme which is available for most UK high street banks. You can request your card provider reverses the transaction, giving you your money back.

Have a story you want to share? Email us at webtravel@reachplc.com

Looking to hire a car for your summer holiday? Which? has put together a ranking of some of the best and worst car hire firms, including those that have the most hidden fees and the ones likely to keep you waiting at the airport

Hiring a car can be an excellent way to explore somewhere new, but a recent survey by Which? Has revealed that one in eight car hire customers end up paying more than they expected to get on the road.

The consumer magazine surveyed over 3,600 people who’d hired a car in the past two years, asking a range of questions about their experience with customer service, value for money, ease of car pick-up and drop-off, and clarity around the overall cost.

Shockingly, 13% of participants in the survey ended up paying more than the price that they were quoted, showing that extras aren’t always made clear when customers are booking. These included surcharges for drivers over 70 and extra insurance costs that weren’t in the headline price.

Third from the bottom of the rankings was car hire giant Avis, a fixture at airports and other transport hubs. It has over 50 branches across the UK and thousands more across the world. While Avis scored highly for accurate descriptions, quality vehicles, and quick returns, it only scored two stars out of five for collection speed, and the clarity of its costs and conditions. With an average rental price of £55, it’s also far from being the cheapest option. Avis declined to comment.

Second from the bottom was Dollar, owned by the same parent company as Hertz, which also scored well for having accurate vehicle descriptions, easy-to-find locations, and easy returns. However, it received two-star scores when it came to collection speed and three stars for overall value for money.

When approached for comment, a Hertz spokesperson said: “We welcome feedback and are committed to providing a clear and transparent booking experience for our customers. Key information – including rates, inclusions, rental requirements and additional driver policies – is displayed throughout the reservation process and is available for review before payment.

“All Hertz customers also have access to a no-fee additional driver option through our free Gold+ Rewards loyalty program, which allows members to add a spouse or domestic partner at no additional charge.”

Coming in last in Which?’s survey was Goldcar. 28% of renters told Which? they had received additional charges, some of which weren’t deducted until after they returned home. Nearly a fifth of respondents said they had to queue for 30 minutes or longer to collect their car, also giving them two stars for customer service. One survey respondent said: “The risk of post-contract extras outweighs the cheaper price. Avoid at all costs.”

A spokesperson for Goldcar said: “Goldcar Spain is, of course, disappointed that the alleged experiences have been identified by Which? Travel. With regard to insurance cover, the company offers premium cover to provide a seamless process should damage occur during a customer’s rental. A customer, of course, has the right to choose to buy their cover separately; however, if this is the case, they will be charged for any damages that occur during the rental and will then need to claim the costs back from the chosen provider.

“Whilst the company has not been given the opportunity to see the footage referred to by Which? Travel is committed to investigating any incidents where a customer believes they have received service that does not match expectations for a low-cost brand.

“The company introduced a Code of Ethics for counter sales and a Guide of Good Sales Practices in 2021, both of which are reviewed annually based on customer feedback about their sales experience. If an employee breaches the Code of Ethics, they are immediately warned and penalised economically and if breaches are repeated they can be subject to termination of their contract.”

At the top of the rankings was Autoreisen, a Canary Islands-based car hire company that received five stars across all categories, despite also being the cheapest on average at £16 a day. It was named as a Which? Recommended Provider alongside the UK’s Arnold Clark, and the worldwide brand Alamo.

Arnold Clark was also the only UK rental firm that was awarded five stars for clarity of costs. One satisfied customer said: “There was no time shilly-shallying and no problem hiring in my age group (82). I was in and out in no time and dropped off back at my home.”

Guy Hobbs, head of travel research for Which?, said: “Too often we hear from holidaymakers who have faced poor customer service and unexpected charges that turn a seemingly cheap rental into an expensive one.

“The good news is that some firms show it doesn’t have to be this way. To get the best experience this summer, travellers should choose a reputable provider. Our Which? Recommended Providers are all excellent options, and using a trusted broker such as Zest Car Rental can provide extra reassurance and support if any issues arise.”

Which?’s rankings for best and worst car hire firms for 2026

1. Autoreisen
2. Cicar
3. Arnold Clark
4. Alamon
5. TopCar
6. Centauro
7. Enterprise
8. Sixt
9. Drivalia
10. Europcar
11. Thrifty
12. Budget
13. Hertz
14. Avis
15. Dollar
16. Goldcar

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