ski

SACRAMENTO — He made millions playing an indestructible action hero in the movies, but Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger sounded altogether mortal as he talked for the first time Wednesday about the pain and frustration he has felt since his holiday skiing accident.

At a news conference where he released his new budget, Schwarzenegger told reporters that since his surgery two weeks ago he has been in continuous pain.

“The operation was a very complicated operation,” he said, “and I don’t think I can ever remember having had pain — ongoing pain, 24 hours a day — like after this operation.”

In a statement put out last month after the Dec. 23 accident, the governor’s doctor described the surgery planned for Schwarzenegger as routine.

Schwarzenegger had previously said nothing publicly about his accident, and his staff had refused to confirm reports that the governor tripped and fell while standing on a mountain slope in Sun Valley, Idaho.

Adi Erber, a ski instructor who was with the governor at the time, said Schwarzenegger’s pole got caught in one of his skis, causing the fall. Schwarzenegger was then carried down the slope on a toboggan and taken to a hospital.

Asked for his own account of how the accident happened, Schwarzenegger offered a few details about his complicated medical history, which has included steroid use, a heart valve replacement, a torn rotator cuff and broken ribs. He said that he has also had an artificial hip put in — a procedure that, he maintained, helped cause the leg break.

Schwarzenegger said that because he was moving “at a very slow speed,” his ski stayed on.

Had he been moving fast, he said, the ski would have popped off, probably sparing him any real injury.

“I had an artificial hip that was replaced around five years ago,” he said. “Because it was vulnerable, the ski torqued the leg, and it broke the femur because of that. If I were to have that accident at 50 mph — and many times I’ve crashed at that speed — nothing happens.

“So this is what the unfortunate thing was.”

Soon after the injury, speculation bubbled up that the governor’s steroid use might have left his bones weakened, making him more susceptible to a break. Schwarzenegger has admitted using steroids when he was a champion bodybuilder.

The governor’s office released a statement from his orthopedic surgeon, Dr. Kevin Ehrhart, addressing the steroid question.

“Any suggestion that Gov. Schwarzenegger’s injury was sustained as a result of anabolic steroid use is wrong and has no basis in fact,” Ehrhart said. “His bone was completely healthy and rock solid.”

Normally upbeat in his public appearances, Schwarzenegger said the accident has left him shaken. He has looked thinner and somewhat drawn since the surgery.

At his inauguration last week, First Lady Maria Shriver clutched the governor’s arm as he took the oath of office — as if holding him up — and handed him bottled water afterward. Shriver also attended the governor’s budget address.

Schwarzenegger suggested Shriver has been at the receiving end of his darkened mood.

“So it’s really annoying to me, and believe me, there’s nothing I hate more than having an obstacle like this. So this is very frustrating to me. It’s very tough on my wife.

“When I get frustrated and have those obstacles, I’m very angry a lot of times,” he said, “and so I’m working through all of this and trying to get rid of this problem as soon as I can.”

peter.nicholas@latimes.com

AS someone with a fear of heights, dangling by a thin rope from a cable several hundred metres above a deep mountain valley is not on my bucket list. 

But here I am, suspended 2,000ft up with nothing between me and the valley below (a situation that could soon change as I feel the pastries I had for breakfast make their way back up). 

I have reluctantly agreed to take part in the so-called Aerolive experience, which is essentially a gondola without walls. 

“Aerolive invites you to slow down, take a deep breath and appreciate the sheer scale and beauty of the mountains,” teases the bumpf. 

Heavenly stuff, but no one has told my pulse, which is going like the clappers as I gingerly step nearer the edge. 

I watch in awe as my fellow daredevils lean out into the abyss and decide on a half in/half out strategy, which would typically be described as “chicken”.  

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Because yes, Aerolive is exhilarating and yes, the view is magical but my God it is also bloody ­terrifying. 

This mountain masochism is the latest thing to do in La Plagne — a French ski resort which has spent millions installing the superfast gondola from which I now teeter, to whisk visitors up to the top of its 3,080m-high Roche De Mio mountain. 

Of course, you don’t have to — literally — put your life on the line to get up here. Normal, sealed cabins are available.  

And while Roche De Mio is most definitely the highest, it is just one of numerous peaks in this vast Alpine resort, with its 77 lifts, 143 pistes and 225km of skiing.  

That nearly doubles when you add the runs and lifts in neighbouring resort Les Arcs, which offer a combined 425km of pistes — the third largest ski area in the world. 

You could spend a week here and not cover half the terrain, even if you bomb down a few slopes after hours on a sledge, which local ski firm Oxygene offers for around 40 euros. 

I gave their so-called Superluge Derby a go and wow, it’s probably the fastest — and most out of control — you can go on these mountains. 

Helpfully La Plagne is HIGH, with 70 per cent of runs above the treeline between 2,000m and 3,000m, which is perfect for a late break (I went in late March and conditions were ideal). 

From the top of the highest runs, the views across the bowls are spectacular and there are plenty of big, wide runs. 

And when your legs get tired, you are spoilt for choice for places to stop, from cosy chalet-style joints serving all the Savoie usuals — such as tartiflette and fondue — to more modest snack bars pumping out croque monsieurs. 

So you don’t blow a hundred euros every lunchtime, I’d suggest nipping over to Plagne Bellecote, where cheaper snack bars abound but the view is still cracking. 

If you do fancy spending a few bob and you can’t visit the mountains without a blast of electronic dance music, there is a Folie Douce-style bar on the way down to Plagne Village called La Bergerie. 

It’s a straight rip-off of the Val d’Isere original Folie Douce and features DJs, half-naked dancers and, of course, some dude on a saxophone. 

Getting a big round in here is only for the brave, though. I bought three pints and am still paying off the credit card bill.  

But it’s a good laugh for a quick stop and hey, you’re on holiday. 

I stayed just down the hill from Bellcote in a Ski Beat chalet in one of La Plagne’s smaller satellite villages, Plagne 1800. 

It’s a charming little place with a few bars and restaurants but most importantly, it’s about a five minute ­totter from the lifts. 

This is my second year on a Ski Beat package and again the service was first class and the food top quality. 

While Plagne 1800 is a sleepy hamlet, there is enough to keep you entertained if you’re not quite ready to turn in at 9pm. 

I spent a few nights in the rowdy La Mine Bar, themed on a “traditional English pub” and it has made a pretty good fist of it. 

You can watch Premier League matches here and neck a few proper pints but, with its wooden beams and Gore-Tex-clad clientele, you still feel like you’re in the Alps.

Musical acts take to the stage most nights and, depending on how smashed you are when you ask them, they’ll play requests. 

The only, er, downside is you have to walk back up the hill when you’ve reached capacity. 

Where’s that windowless lift when you need it, eh? 

Ski holidays have gathered a reputation for being some of the most expensive getaways, but how much will a weekend on the slopes really set you back? Oliver Radcliffe went to find out

Ski holidays have a reputation for being on the pricey side. The very pricey side. Holidays to the Alps are increasingly thought of as a reserve for only the richest, as the Mirror’s trip to Megeve last year highlighted. But it doesn’t have to be. A day on the slopes in Austria’s Gastein Valley might not be as expensive as those new to the mountainside life may think (although it’s certainly all relative).

Spread across the trio of resorts of Bad Gastein, Bad Hofgastein, and Dorfgastein, the valley forms part of the region of SalzburgerLand, one of the lesser-known alpine destinations. Yet compared with some of Europe’s biggest-name resorts, the cost of skiing here remains reasonable.

While a local dry slope can offer a cost-effective start for beginners, nothing beats real snow for the authentic experience. A trip to the Angertal ski school could be the perfect place to build your skills and get you able to take on the slopes.

One really handy feature of the region is its Guest Mobility Ticket, which provides free public transport throughout the entire region.

So what does a realistic day on the mountains actually cost?

Do you have a travel story to tell? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

The lift pass

The biggest hidden expense for any skier is the lift pass. This is your ticket to the mountain’s ski lifts and gondolas, which transport you to the top of the slopes so you can ski down. Without a valid pass, you won’t be able to ride the lifts. Passes can range from single-day tickets to multi-day, weekly, or even season-long access, with prices varying widely.

In the Gastein ski area, a one-day adult ticket costs €69.50 (~£59). A six-day pass costs €344.50 (~£293), which works out at around €57.40 (~£49) per day, so staying for a few days noticeably reduces the daily cost.

The pass gives access to the main Schlossalm–Stubnerkogel ski area linking Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein, as well as the higher-altitude Sportgastein sector.

Ski hire

If you’re not travelling with your own equipment, rental is the next major cost. At the Angertal Skizentrum in Bad Hofgastein, a day’s rental starts from around €26 (£22) for skis and poles and €14 (£12) for boots.

For weekly rentals, expect to spend around €129 (£110) for skis and €65 (£55) for boots. Snowboard rental is priced similarly.

Ski lessons

For beginners, learning can also be the most expensive part. A three-day beginner’s course can set you back around €294 (£250), including 12 hours of lessons with a dedicated instructor.

Lunch on the mountain

Food prices in the mountains are slightly higher than at your local spot, but Austrian mountain huts are usually gentler on the wallet than some French mega-resorts.

A typical slope-side lunch might include €10–€15 (£8.50–£13) for dishes such as goulash soup or Tiroler gröstl, another €6 (£5) for a drink or coffee, and another €7 (£6) for a slice of strudel. Kaiserschmarrn, the sweetened shredded pancake, costs a little more at around €15 (£13)but it will keep you full well into the evening.

Altogether, €15–€25 (£13–£21) is a realistic spend for lunch and an espresso on the mountain.

One recommendation after a day on the slopes of Bad Hofgastein is the brand new Hirsch und Maus, perched at the mountain peak. A traditional Wiener Schnitzel costs the equivalent of €21 (£18). For those fed up with beige carbs, a Caesar salad is around €19 (£16).

Après ski

Après ski is a key part of the skiing experience, but it can be expensive. After a day on the nursery slopes, a half litre of the local Salzburg brew, Stiegl, costs the equivalent of €6 (£5.30) at the trendy Angertal 1180.

That overall figure can drop if you book lift tickets early, bring your own gear, or choose shorter passes such as half-day tickets. Skiing will never be a budget activity, but not every resort caters only to those on six figures, where single-day lift passes often exceed €80–€90 (~£68–£77).

After the lifts close, many skiers swap their boots for bathrobes and head to the valley’s famous thermal spas, soaking tired legs in steaming mineral waters surrounded by snow.

Accommodation

A classic double room at Hotel Zum Stern costs €294 (~£250) per room per night. Shared between two people, that’s about €147 (~£125) each per night.

Five-day holiday estimate (per person)

Based on the assumption that you’d buy a lift pass for each of the five days of a five-day ski holiday, hire skis and boots for the week, and each day have a mountain lunch, a Schnitzel-style dinner, and one beer Apres ski, this is how much you could expect to spend.

• Lift pass, 5 days: €66–78.50 a day, €330–392 (£280–335) a week
• Ski and boot hire, weekly: €194 (£165)
• Lunch, 5 days: €15–25/day, €75–125 (£65–105) a week
• Dinner, 5 days: £16–18/day, €94–106 (£80–90) a week
• One beer a day, 5 days: €31 (£26.50)
• Accommodation, 5 nights: €1,470 per room, halved to €735 (£625)

Total (no lessons): €1,474–1,536 (£1,255–1,305)

• Optional 3-day beginners course: ~€294 (£250)

Total with lessons: €1,768–1,830 (£1,505–1,555)

This winter thousands of holidaymakers will be packing their thermals and heading for the ski slopes. We’d love to hear about your favourite smaller ski resort, one which has managed to hang on to its local character and charm, whether it’s in the Alps, the Pyrenees, Scandinavia or eastern Europe.

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While many may flock to the huge French resorts of Val D’isere or Chamonix, for a more intimate romantic ski getaway one hidden Austrian getaway scoops the title

There are ski resorts built for thrill seekers, and there are ski resorts built for those searching for glamour. Then there is the Gastein Valley in Austria, a place that seems designed for something else entirely – romance.

Hidden deep within the Alps in the province of SalzburgerLand, the valley’s twin spa towns of Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein combine sweeping mountain scenery, healing thermal waters and classic wooden ski huts that ooze quintessential Austrian charm.

While German may not be known as a romantic language, the Austrian alpine culture all but makes up for it with its cosy wooden lodges with roaring fires, extremely good local wines (I promise it’s not just Riesling), and let’s not forget about the fondue. Something I indulged in for the first time on a recent trip, surrounded by a roaring fire in said cosy lodge, at Bellevue Alm Gastein. Washed down with a good quantity of schnapps, of course.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

OPINION

With plenty of lodges to curl up in, it’s clear why the region has quietly gained a reputation as one of the Alps’ most romantic winter destinations. The resort of Bad Gastein itself is unusual. Rather than spreading gently across a valley floor like most Alpine resorts, it clings dramatically to the side of a steep gorge.

After a walk around the town during golden hours on a brisk February evening, looking at the mountain views and the marvels of architecture that surrounded me, it hit me – I’m in a Wes Anderson film. The streets were lined with grand pastel coloured hotels perched perilously onto the mountainside, just like in one of my personal favorite films, The Grand Budapest Hotel. I walked through the flakes, feeling as though I had just stumbled onto a film set with Ralph Fiennes and Bill Murray.

But this wasn’t just a figment of my imagination. The cult-classic director is said to have traveled to Bad Gastein, seeking alpine inspiration for the Oscar-nominated hit. Clearly, he found it. It is especially easy to spot when looking up at the façade of the Grand Hotel de l’Europe. The hotel looks out over a cliff, a gentle waterfall crashing below, with all but a bright pink 19th-century funicular distinguishing it from the film itself.

As I continued my wander, the noise of the waterfall offered its own theatrical backing track – and one that becomes even more magical in winter, when mist from the waterfall freezes into crystals and snow dusts the pastel-coloured buildings. This is a magic that has been enchanting people for centuries, with the town having inspired many Romantic composers.

Franz Schubert and Johann Strauss found musical inspiration from the valley, while it is said Mozart himself was born in Bad Gastein before his pregnant parents moved to the nearby city of Salzburg.

Today, that historic grandeur remains, giving the resort a slightly surreal atmosphere that feels part Hollywood and the perfect place for a day together on the slopes.

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