seas

Why Milos is unforgettable

We first noticed Milos as we travelled home from Crete, flying directly above it and deciding that was where we must go next. It didn’t disappoint. The island was calm, peaceful and strikingly beautiful. Milos isn’t well known, but it should be; the true home of the Aphrodite of Melos, displayed in the Louvre, Paris as the Venus de Milo. The northern coast was spectacular, shaped by volcanic activity and particularly picturesque. Sarakiniko is the perfect stop for photographs with its white rock. Truly an unforgettable trip.
Chris Rimell

Chasing waterfalls on the Pelion peninsula

We visited the incredibly beautiful Pelion peninsula in east, central Greece, and based ourselves in the tiny town of Damouchari, staying at the Kastro Studios above the village shop with a prime position overlooking the harbour and a one-minute walk to the white pebble beach. We swam in the harbour and off the beach, snorkelling with interesting fish and crustaceans, and took a very hot walk (take plenty of water) along the coast to the Fakistra beach where we cooled off under a waterfall and my daughter spent the afternoon doing handstands in the sea. Our walks included eating home-cooked meals at tiny roadside restaurants and drinking very strong coffee under a 1,000-year-old plane tree in a village square. A perfect, slow and really memorable trip full of exploration and fun.
Layla Astley

Beach boat trips on Symi

Getting the ferry from hectic Rhodes, we had heard that something special was waiting for us on Symi. Tucked away just off the Turkish coastline, this hidden little island in the Dodecanese was the perfect place to switch off for a week. Every day was a different boat trip to a new beach, such as Marathounda Bay, with its free-ranging goats searching for scraps between the sunbeds and stones. However, the true highlights were the shaded tavernas found on the edge of each shore where we refreshed ourselves to our hearts’ content with seafood, salad and a cold Mythos.
Steve

Strolling around Venetian palazzos on Syros

Syros – the administrative capital of the Cyclades – is a wonderful place. Between relaxed strolls around Venetian palazzos (large houses) and swimming off the rocks in Ermoupoli, we got a bus to the other side of the island to Galissas beach. Here, after asking locals, we made an anecdotal map and hiked to Agios Stefanos, a chapel in a cave almost in the sea. Watching the sunset there was a magical experience. The story goes that a fisher was saved here from being dragged under the sea by a giant octopus, after praying to Saint Stephen, and so he built this chapel to thank him.
Rosie

The healing power of Hydra

After my mum, June, died, our family decided to go somewhere warm of heart and chose Hydra in the Saronic Gulf, off the east coast of the Peloponnese. Still rumpled from our flight, we took a ferry from Piraeus and sailed off towards a kindly family hotel, the Hydroussa. A tiny, car-free island with a long history was explored in an afternoon. We mostly just took dips (in the clearest seas I’ve ever swum in), read, ate, remembered and gently healed.
Dawn

An archaeological gem near Preveza

The little-known archaeological site of ancient Kassopi was one highlight of our visit to the charming little port of Preveza, on the central west coast. The mountainside was drowning in wildflowers, and the bees, butterflies and lizards were our only companions – apart from the warden who seemed agreeably surprised to see us. We had the entire site to ourselves and wandering through the remains of the city and its third-century BC theatre, with an azure sea in the background, was an unforgettably romantic and quintessentially Greek experience. Later that day, we went dolphin-watching in the Ambracian Gulf, followed by wonderful Preveza prawns for dinner.
Gerald Willmore

Back in time on Antiparos

Most guidebooks recommend doing a day trip to Antiparos from Paros, its much bigger neighbour, but we stayed for five days – the best decision of our trip to the Cyclades. Like stepping back decades into a much less-touristed Greece, the island has a modest beauty and peaceful aura that charmed and calmed us. We stayed in Statheros Garden and enjoyed morning dips in the turquoise waters at Panagia beach, just a few metres away. Paros is only a few minutes away by ferry so there’s plenty of scope for exploring beyond beautiful Antiparos Town and Sifneiko bay.
Alice

Amorgos is as epic as in the Big Blue

The Big Blue is a film I have watched countless times and seeing the 11th-century monastery of Amorgos rise out of the rock face as Eric Serra’s soundtrack kicks in has stayed with me. Seeing it in real life when I travelled to this most charming of Greek islands was truly unforgettable.
Ed Simpson

A true adventure on Kefalonia and Ithaca

As a boy, I went to Kefalonia with my parents and stayed in the fishing village of Fiskardo in the north. Beautiful beaches, fantastic food and sun aplenty, yet a highlight for me was hiring a small motorboat with my father and darting across the bay to the island of Ithaca. We may have got a little carried away exploring, leading to us running out of fuel and having to be rescued! Nevertheless, it was a true adventure. My father passed in 2022, and our speedboat adventure is a memory I hold dear to this day.
Dan Law-Jones

Winning tip: wildlife deep in the Vikos gorge

We’ve just returned from a road trip in beautiful northern Greece, a highlight of which was the awe-inspiring Vikos gorge – the deepest gorge in Europe by ratio of depth to width. We frequently saw tortoises trundling along on our hiking route through the gorge, and also had a brief encounter with a horned viper (one of Europe’s most venomous snakes), underlining the array of wild creatures that are resident here, which include brown bears, wolves, Egyptian vultures and wild boar. We enjoyed the tranquility of the Voidomatis Springs, a crystal clear pool at the bottom of the gorge. It’s a perfect place for a dip if you’re feeling brave – the water is a bracing 4-7C year round!
Beatrice

The views are remarkable. From one window, gorse-gold hills roll west towards mountains patched with snow. On the other side, fields of new spring lambs slope down to a silver sea. Elsewhere, the bus crosses wide estuaries and cascading burns. There are thatched crofts, rocky bays and birch woods starred with anemones. One of the most remarkable things about this scenic 111-mile, 3½-hour trip on bus X99 is that it costs just £2.

Until March 2026, a single from Inverness to Scrabster on Scotland’s north coast was £28. Now, thanks to a new bus fare cap in Orkney, Highland and Moray, no journey in the area costs more than £2. The bus is timed to coincide with the Northlink Ferry to Stromness, Orkney’s second biggest town, and I’m heading there to explore by bus.

The ferry’s dining room serves Orkney smoked-cheddar macaroni cheese and Orkney fudge cheesecake. Afterwards, I stagger out on deck for blustery views of the Old Man of Hoy, its red sandstone glowing in the sunset. Scrabster to Stromness (£22-£26 each way for foot passengers) is the only ferry route that passes this 137-metre-tall sea stack off the coast of Orkney’s most mountainous island. A seal weaves through the waves below, among wide-winged gannets and sleek guillemots.

I’m staying in a little whitewashed cottage called the Shed up the Lane, 10 minutes’ walk from the ferry port and just off paved Victoria Street with its shops and galleries. I can stroll from a flat white in elegant Stromness Coffee to dark island cake at Julia’s Shed via the Pier Arts Centre, a stylish light-filled gallery full of works by Barbara Hepworth, Ben Nicholson and others.

From April to October, bus X1 runs every half an hour, with an hourly service to the neolithic village at Skara Brae. Baby rabbits hop over the fields and sand martins are nesting in the cliffs nearby. You can still see where people slept, ate and kept bone tools on slab-built shelves 5,000 years ago. In summer, a ticket includes Skaill House, a delightful crow-stepped mansion. It was built by a 17th-century bishop, whose great-great-great-great-grandson, William Watt, first rediscovered Skara Brae in 1850 when a violent storm exposed the long-buried stone-age houses.

I get the bus to the Ring of Brodgar (free) and, with no parked car to get back to, hop back on after a two-mile linear walk to the Stones of Stenness (also free). Sandwiched between one salty loch and one freshwater, the area includes an RSPB reserve. I follow a flowering loch-side trail, where redshanks and oystercatchers forage on the shore. Swans are nesting near the Bridge of Brodgar and one pair have built their causeway-nest from seaweed.

Bus X1 heads towards St Margaret’s Hope and I get on, meaning to go all the way. The hour-long journey crosses the Churchill Barriers linking four islands, passing the Italian chapel on Lamb’s Holm, and ends near the Murray Arms, known for its seafood. But it’s beautiful weather outside and already past lunchtime. Another passenger recommends the Loki Seafood Shack, hidden on an industrial estate near Stromness. A few minutes later, I’m sitting in the sunshine eating fresh, hand-dived scallops with chilli jam and griddled hake with red Thai butter. The shack is run by chefs Leigh Gould and Alan Skinner. Leigh explains how the scallops are sustainably harvested by scuba divers, “just like picking potatoes out of a field, except the potatoes are under water”.

Back in Stromness, I walk round the coast with views across sparkling Scapa Flow to Hoy’s volcanic mountains. On the way, Stromness Museum (£7.50/free for kids) is an old-school treasure trove. Exhibits cover 5,000 years, from a rare neolithic figurine to Orcadian poet George Mackay Brown’s rocking chair. There are harpoons and snowshoes, painted chests and carved whalebones. In a glass case of Victorian stuffed birds, I’m finally able to ID the colourful birds I’ve seen hopping around the beaches all day as wheatears.

Puffins, known locally as “tammie norries”, are returning to their nesting places for the summer. The best place on Orkney mainland to see them is around the cliffs in the island’s northwestern corner. Wild Orkney Walks is offering new bus-friendly tours for 2026, including the May-August Seabird City Experience (£40). It’s designed to fit the timetable for bus 8S, which runs close to the RSPB reserve at Marwick Head.

It’s still only April when I visit, so I plan to take bus 8S next morning and walk to Birsay, through the ruins of a 16th-century palace. The only sounds are cows, curlews and crashing waves. Near the village church, there’s an honesty box selling biscuits called fattie cutties and jars of rhubarb chutney. I cross the snaking low-tide causeway to the Brough of Birsay, admire a Viking church and look at the seabirds on the cliffs below the lighthouse. Then I follow the coast, where the turf is springy with budding thrift, clifftops gold with celandines, and fulmars chuckle from rocky nest-ledges. Waiting, near bird-rich Birsay beach, for bus 7 back to Stromness, three puffins fly past in the misty light. At the wood-panelled Ferry Inn, supper is a perfectly cooked slab of chargrilled salmon with green beans, pea shoots, fresh apple and pickled radishes.

With a few hours next day until my ferry, I get the bus to Kirkwall to visit St Magnus Cathedral. On the way, there’s one more prehistoric site: you can only visit Maeshowe chambered cairn on a guided tour via shuttle bus from the visitor centre in Stenness. The grassy banks are sprinkled with violets; inside, there is runic, dagger-carved Viking graffiti. Runes suggest ancient wisdom, but this is loo-door stuff: “Haermund Hardaxe woz ’ere.”

Bus travel means I can end with a drink. Orkney has two huge and centuries-old distilleries: Highland Park and Scapa. The harbourside Orkney Distillery, founded in 2016, is much smaller and has so far produced mostly gin. Their first single malt whisky will be ready in 2027. An engaging tour ends with tasters, after which it’s a four-minute stumble to the bus station. I spend the night, across the water, at Scrabster’s Ferry Inn. My £2 bus next morning is run by Ember (book ahead), the world’s first all-electric, intercity bus company with wifi and charging points.

Back in Inverness, the brand new Inverness Castle Experience (£20), presenting itself as a gateway to the Highlands, involves immersive sound-and-light shows scrolling across the Victorian castle walls. There are soaring eagles, thundering oceans and whispering stag-filled forests, while spectral voices say things like: “It’s a voyage, it’s a pilgrimage, it’s a saga.” Next door, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (free) has an amazing collection of Highland stuff: Caithness glass, a carved Pictish wolf, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s death mask … There’s time to stroll round Ness Islands, and enjoy live music in the Victorian Market’s food hall, before boarding the Caledonian Sleeper (seats from £54, twin cabins from £290). The night train will replace leafy riverside Inverness with grey London towers. But before I sleep, there’s sea bass and a glass of cold white wine as the sun sets over the Cairngorms.

The trip was supported by Visit Scotland with transport provided by Northlink Ferries and Caledonian Sleeper

Wars and territorial disputes are rewriting the rules of global shipping.

From the Strait of Hormuz to the Panama Canal, and the Red Sea to the Black Sea, maritime traffic is under increasing threat.

Is shipping becoming the new global battleground? And why are the decades-old laws governing the seas failing?

Presenter: James Bays

Guests:

Rockford Weitz – director of the Fletcher Studies programme at Tufts University

George Theocharidis – professor of maritime law and policy at the World Maritime University

Stavros Karamperidis – associate professor in maritime economics at Plymouth University