scenic

The West Highland Line has been named the world’s most beautiful railway, but does Scotland’s iconic 164-mile train journey truly live up to the hype? I boarded the train through the Scottish Highlands to find out.

“I think this is the most beautiful train line I’ve ever been on.”

Those words genuinely escaped my mouth as my wife and I rattled through the Scottish Highlands, skirting the edges of glistening lochs, weaving between ancient mountains, and crossing hauntingly stark yet stunning moorland.

“You’ve been on it before,” she kindly reminded me. Thankfully, my tendency to experience something and then completely forget about it doesn’t diminish its beauty one bit.

The legendary West Highland Line departs Glasgow and plunges deep into the west coast, steaming alongside the Clyde to Helensburgh, before heading north via Garelochhead and Loch Long towards either Oban or Mallaig. Shortly after escaping Scotland’s largest city, the undulating, wind turbine-topped hills begin to swell as the Highlands draw near.

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The railway carries you northward along the coastline, passing through the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. At Crianlarich, the track divides, continuing either past Loch Awe towards Oban, or climbing high up to Rannoch Moor.

The line traverses the moorland for 23 miles, ascending to over 400 metres and offering unrivalled vistas of one of Europe’s last remaining wild places: an enormous expanse of blanket bog, lochans, rivers, and rocky outcrops where curlews, grouse, roe deer, and red deer roam freely.

The Moor captured near-national fascination during the Victorian period, when initial fear and mild disgust at its wild and forbidding character transformed into devotion. Among the early travellers were the poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy, who visited in 1803 and tentatively described the place as “desolate and extensively wild”.

Just seven years later, Scotland’s greatest champion, Sir Walter Scott, published his celebrated poem The Lady of the Lake. The work showcased Loch Katrine in the Trossachs, south of Rannoch Moor, thrusting it into the spotlight. Inspired visitors descended on the region to witness how “Summer dawn’s reflected hue to purple changed Loch Katrine blue” for themselves.

Travelling north to the Highlands and back again a few days later, we experienced both faces of this remarkable landscape. During our night journey, the glens and Munros loomed against the train window, making our tiny illuminated carriage feel insignificant as it rattled along. On the bright, sunny return trip, the breathtaking vistas — sparkling lochs nestled beneath sheer mountains capped with lush greenery — felt more reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria than bonny Scotland.

Without doubt, the most iconic spot along the route is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, immortalised in the Harry Potter films as the path of the Hogwarts Express. Passengers cross this magnificent structure en route to Mallaig, the terminus of the 164-mile line.

However, spending an afternoon at the viaduct may be worth reconsidering. During my visit, a persistent drizzle dampened the spirits of the crowds of Potter enthusiasts, many of whom appeared rather deflated by what was on offer: two pipers playing sombrely and some railway infrastructure. Add to that the fact that the locals of the 100-person village are fed up with the crowds, and the choice to give it a miss seems straightforward.

Mallaig is a far superior option, boasting excellent whale-watching excursions that provide frequent sightings of the cheerful minke pods inhabiting the waters.

There are numerous other attractions to discover along the route.

Corrour, Britain’s highest-altitude railway station, draws Trainspotting enthusiasts due to its prominent appearance in the film. It is equally picturesque and captivating. There are no roads here, so visitors head directly onto the walking trails via a quick meal at the Corrour Station House.

Another gem is Tyndrum. This former mining settlement is now the smallest location in Britain to boast two railway stations. They enable travellers to branch off, climbing steeply up the glen towards the north or west.

For me, the town marks the final stop in the Lowlands, the spot where you pause before heading across the Moor and into the mountains. Such adventures require fuelling up on fish and chips or curry at the superb Green Welly Boot Stop while watching its wonderful collection of birds.

The West Highland Line is far more than just a train journey. Step aboard and you’ll find yourself rubbing shoulders with forestry workers heading to work, mountain bikers, walkers, local schoolchildren, and railway enthusiasts eager to discover whether a route once crowned the world’s most beautiful truly lives up to its reputation. It’s a living tapestry of Scotland at its finest: mountains, moorland, lochs, wildlife, and history, all rolling out before you at a gloriously unhurried pace.

ONE railway with some of the best views in England is dishing out tickets for £1.50.

The Settle & Carlisle Railway is celebrating 150 years of being one of Europe‘s most scenic train journeys and is treating its passengers to a bargain offer.

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The 73-mile route in the North of England is considered one of the most beautiful thanks to its views of the Yorkshire Dales and Cumbria countryside.

The railway is allowing passengers to ride the entire length of the route from Leeds to Carlisle – and everywhere in-between for £1.50.

You can buy one of these cheap tickets from now until May 22 for travel between May 22 and July 17.

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Alex Hornby, Northern’s Commercial and Customer Director said: “The Settle to Carlisle Railway is famous around the world for its spectacular scenery and community engagement.

“We want as many people as possible to share in the experience of this wonderful line, which is why we’re offering everyone the chance to travel for just £1.50 during the 150^th anniversary year.”

The stretch of railway has consistently been dubbed one of the most picturesque by the likes of Lonely Planet.

It said: “Passengers can feast their eyes on mile after mile of magnificent Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines scenery, interrupted only by stations so pretty you would expect to find them pictured on a box of biscuits.”

The line is part of the British rail network and serves both mainline and steam trains.

The most famous part of the route is the the Ribblehead viaduct which was first built in 1870.

It’s described as “a stunning piece of Victorian engineering” by the Yorkshire Dales National Park website.

They added: “Ribblehead viaduct is just over the border from Cumbria into North Yorkshire and is undoubtedly the most impressive structure on the Settle-Carlisle Railway.”

Bothy on Loch Torridon, Wester Ross

With its cheery, cherry-red tin roof, you can’t miss the sturdy stone bothy on the Ben Damph estate. The family-owned 5,868-hectare (14,500-acre) estate nudges up to Loch Torridon, and the bothy, constructed from the ruins of an old black house (a traditional thatched home), has views over the loch to the mountains beyond. Restored by a team of stonemasons, it has two rooms (each sleeping two) warmed by log burners. The furniture has been made from the estate’s timber by a local cabinet maker. Between the two rooms is a “sitooterie” with picture windows framing views over to Ben Alligin. There’s no electricity, but there is running water and a gas-powered hot shower next to the bothy; a compost loo is in the garden.
Sleeps 4, from £342.50 for two nights, bendamph.com

Gastropub and bunkhouse, Cairngorms national park

Squirrelled away among the trees on the banks of the River Spey and on the edge of Aviemore, the Cairngorms’ outdoor activity capital, the Old Bridge Inn is a gastropub with a handful of hip hostel rooms. The dogs-under-the-table inn has a roaring fire and is famous for its folk music sessions. By the riverside beer garden, paddle boarders, canoeists, wild swimmers and anglers make their way on to and into the river; while for climbers, hikers and mountain bikers, the forests and hills of the Rothiemurchus estate are on the doorstep. The bunkhouse has a vintage chic vibe, with seven en suite rooms and dorms and a kitchen – although if you don’t fancy cooking, head next door to the pub and tuck into Strathspey venison samosas with carrot and cumin sauce and roast hispi cabbage.
Dorm beds from £30, double rooms from £85, family rooms from £95, oldbridgeinn.co.uk

Hotel and bunkhouse perfect for exploring Glen Coe

Not much can match Glen Coe for jaw-dropping grandeur. This majestic glen is hemmed in on one side by the jagged peaks of the challenging Aonach Eagach ridge, and to the south, the buttresses of Bidean nam Bian. In 1692, one of the most infamous massacres in history took place here, government forces slaying the MacDonald clan as they slept. Today, it’s a giant outdoor playground, its bleak beauty drawing Munro-baggers, hikers and mountain-bikers. The West Highland Way also passes through the glen, with walkers bedding down in Kingshouse hotel and bunkhouse, a smart wooden hostel with charcoal-grey tin roof. The hotel’s glass-fronted restaurant gives panoramic views of the valley.
From £44 for a bunk, £54 for a bunk and breakfast, kingshousehotel.co.uk

Remote cottage on the car-free island of Ulva

Anyone who binge-watched Banjo and Ro’s Grand Island Hotel will know how picturesque the little community-owned, car-free Hebridean island-off-an-island of Ulva is. A short boat ride from Mull, it’s just 7½ miles long by 2½ miles wide. A 5-mile tramp from the pier (next to the excellent Boathouse restaurant) through dappled woodland and along a coastal track, brings you to Bearnus bothy. Perched above a beach where you can go swimming, this little off-grid cottage has been thoughtfully kitted out by Andy and Yvette Primrose, who also run the island’s hostel. Battery-operated fairy lights are strung around the bathroom – fill the old tin bath with water heated on the wood-burning stove. There are games, stacks of novels, guidebooks and maps, and Crocs and wellies to borrow for island yomps.
Sleeps 2, from £121 for a two-night stay, airbnb.co.uk

An inn with rooms and fresh seafood on the Isle of Skye

Charlie Haddock fell in love with the Stein Inn on her way to the Outer Hebrides years ago. In 2019, she packed up her life in London and moved her family to the remote Waternish peninsula to run this whitewashed waterfront hostelry dating from 1790, the oldest inn on Skye. Charlie works front of house and in the kitchen, preparing the langoustine, lobster and crab landed just a few feet from the door (her son and daughter help out in the holidays). The five rooms, all with sea views, were spruced up in 2024 with dove grey tongue and groove, burnt orange headboards and modern artworks.
From about £80 B&B, thesteininn.co.uk

Eco-hostel on Rannoch Moor

Originally a timber-clad boathouse and stables, the old-school Loch Ossian hostel was built around 1895 on the eponymous loch’s shores by Sir John Stirling Maxwell, the owner of the Corrour estate. A passionate environmentalist, in 1931 he handed the building over to the Scottish Youth Hostels Association. Today, the ivy-green and white-trimmed award-winning eco-hostel, hunkered into the windswept wilderness of Rannoch Moor, is powered by a wind turbine and solar panels. It has compost toilets, a reed bed grey-water drainage system and non-toxic, bat-friendly paint. There is no access by car; catch the train to Corrour station then hike (20 minutes) or bike in.
Beds from £25 a night, hostellingscotland.org.uk

Hotel with panoramic loch views

Sipping your morning coffee in the sleek wooden extension of the Kylesku hotel, a 19th-century coaching inn in the north-west Highlands, you can watch the fishers unload their catch on the slipway through picture windows. Right on the water’s edge, overlooking Loch Glendhu, this gourmet bolthole on the North Coast 500 route has 11 rooms – four in the modern annexe, Willie’s Hoose, next door; two with a sea loch-facing balcony. The rugged Assynt landscape is a Unesco-designated geopark, and the hotel offers a range of activities, from guided storytelling walks to sea kayaking and photography workshops.
From about £109 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com

New architect-designed bothies in Argyll

A derelict croft was the first property to be turned into an off-grid, hillside hideaway on the Lochnell estate. It is lit by hurricane lamps, and outside there’s a wood-fired, sycamore-shaded, hose-filled vintage bath with views over the bay. Now, the Croft Collective’s next batch of bothies is about to be completed. Three architect-designed boltholes, named after birds you can spot along the shoreline – oystercatcher, curlew, kittiwake – will open in June. Just a pebble’s throw from the beach, wide-angled views over the Lynn of Lorne to the Isle of Mull in the west, and the Ardnamurchan hills and the mountains of Morvern, are framed by vast windows. Each bothy has a Japanese-style sunken bath, also with dreamy sea views, hammocks, and binoculars to scour the bay for seals, otters and eagles wheeling above.
From about £220 a night, thecroftcollective.com

Lochside conservation village, Wester Ross

On the shore of Loch Carron, Plockton is a 19th-century conservation village that’s picture-postcard pretty, with yachts bobbing in the bay and palm trees fringing the waterfront. The Plockton Inn has recently had a jaunty revamp – blowsily colourful rooms with floral feature walls, crimson chairs and navy paintwork are split between the old inn, Sorley’s House over the road and The Haven next door. After a day spent visiting nearby attractions such as Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most photographed in Scotland, tuck into creel-caught langoustine or “Plockton prawns” landed on the pier.
From about £170 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com

Cabin with brilliant sunset views on the Isle of Lewis

Watch the sunset from your bed in this cute cabin by working coastal croft Croft 10. The smallholding is grazed by a flock of Hebridean sheep, the ground scratched by hens (farm-fresh eggs for breakfast). The wooden cabin faces west for spectacular sunsets and an ever-shifting seascape. Scour the water for whales and dolphins, and the sky for birds of prey soaring above Broad Bay. Just under 8 miles from Stornoway on the remote Hebridean isle of Lewis, it’s walking distance to the restored Shulishader Steps. Clamber down to the cove, a wild swimming spot, for a dip. Or head out along the recently completed coastal path, the Point and Sandwick Trail.
Sleeps 2, from £120 a night , hostunusual.com