I’ve found the best place in the world for safari
I SKULK swiftly through the labyrinth of shrubs. The grass is so tall it strokes my shoulders with each stride.
Fresh dung and paw prints in the sandy pastures point to South Africa’s most famous mammals lurking nearby — but they stay hidden.
Suddenly, among the chorus of bird call, a rustle and a huff from the nearby shrubs sends adrenaline surging through me.
My feet spring into action before my brain, as I pelt in the opposite direction, following the urgent calls of my rifle-carrying guide.
We had found ourselves mere metres from two wild buffalo, part of the elusive Big Five and one of Kruger National Park’s deadliest animals.
In the east of South Africa and arguably the most famous park for safari in the world, Kruger is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year.
It’s not been much of a start to its birthday, though.
Severe floods ripped through the plains in the early days of this year, wreaking havoc.
But nature is resilient and the wildlife here always bounces back fast.
That’s in part thanks to the committed rangers, who are continually working on the park’s infrastructure and a fierce anti-poaching programme.
And their work meant my chances of spotting wildlife hadn’t been diminished.
In fact, within 24 hours of checking into Rhino Walking Safaris’ Plains camp, I ticked off the Big Five — lions, leopards, buffalo, rhino and elephants — almost twice over.
Full credit goes to the guides accompanying me, James and Orance, who know precisely how to spot clues, including claw marks on trees, with their hawk-like eyes.
Earlier that day, we had pulled to a halt for a lion sleeping in the road.
He was within touching distance.
Not that you’d risk extending an arm beyond the truck.
You have a greater chance of a lion fleeing than attacking, though.
Guide James tells me the Kruger lions are used to seeing trucks of humans.
They’re still very much wild, but they generally feel safe in our presence, which makes for spectacular observing — that’s if you manage to spot one (more tips on that).
Next it was hippos braving dry land after the blistering heat had subsided, an agile leopard creeping through the long grass, then elephants shaking the last of the green fruit from the branches of a Marula tree.
Smiling broadly, I returned to my luxury safari tent, which featured wooden twin beds, a private bathroom with a shower head that dangles from a tree branch and a large decking area from which you can lazily watch wildlife, beyond the small electric fence.
Rhino Walking Safaris owns a 12,000 hectare private concession within Kruger and its Plains camp is near a popular watering hole, so the chances of spotting creatures even during downtime is high.
Buffalos, a wildebeest named Steve, baboons, and even a duo of young rhinos called by.
With only four tents and no wifi, strangers become friends and you’re wholly immersed in the experience.
The real highlight for me, however, was the morning walks.
A 4.45am alarm may sting, but observing the misty pink sunrise from beyond a buffalo’s resting place makes it all worthwhile.
There’s something magical about safaris on foot, treading the same path as the animal you’re tracking, away from all things man-made and with the exhilaration of imminent danger.
Guides carry rifles, although they’re so knowledgeable about the creatures around us, they’ve never had to fire them.
Morning walks come with snacks and coffee, followed by a brunch feast at camp, a few hours of downtime and high tea.
Then it’s the afternoon game drive with sundowners (in my case a healthy pouring of gin), an 8.30pm three-course dinner back at camp and 10pm stargazing — or bedtime for those whose eyes are too weary.
Exhaustion is combatted by sheer adrenaline, but there are also plenty of less rural camps offering more laid-back itineraries where lazy mornings can be enhanced by spa treatments or dips in the pool.
Mdluli Safari Lodge, on the western periphery of Kruger, has a spectacular infinity pool overlooking a watering hole.
The very large safari tents, of which there are 50, are raised on stilts and come with greater levels of creature comforts such as aircon, plugs in rooms, internet access and a swinging egg chair on the decking.
Choice of game drives is plentiful. You can head out at pretty much any time of day, on short sunset safaris or day-long drives.
We even managed to squeeze in a final early sunrise ride before our transfer to the airport, admiring a mob of dwarf mongoose rustling at the edge of the road.
Before heading home or ahead of your safari, a day in Johannesburg is worthwhile.
Holidaymakers travelling from the UK will fly into this city and it’s a poignant area for delving into South Africa’s troubled past.
June 2026 marks 50 years since the brutal killing of Hector Pieterson, a 12-year-old schoolboy, who was shot by police during the Soweto student uprising.
You can learn all about this tale, and the apartheid regime, on a tuktuk tour with Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (£35pp, sowetobackpackers.com).
We rolled through modern-day communities and old hostels, before passing Nelson Mandela’s former home, now a museum.
It’s a humbling experience.
Top it with a ride through untrodden pastures with the Big Five for an adventure of a lifetime.
Watching a David Attenborough documentary back in the UK, I feel a little smug.
A TV screen can’t quite capture that magic.
GO: KRUGER, S AFRICA
GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from Heathrow to Johannesburg from £598pp return.
See ba.com.
STAYING THERE: Two-person tents at Rhino Walking Safaris Plains Camp start from about £422pp per night, with a minimum stay of two nights, including all meals, walking safaris and game drives.
See rws.co.za.
Two-person tents at Mdluli Safari Lodge cost from about £323.50pp on a full board basis and including two game drives per day.
For more info, see southafrica.net.
TEN TIPS FOR BUSH HOLS
1. BRING LOTS OF CLOTHES: You’ll sweat a lot and clothes get grubby on both walks and game drives because of the dust. I often changed outfits twice a day.
2. EARTHY COLOURS: When you’re in the truck, it really doesn’t matter what you wear – although bring a fleece or jacket, even in summer, as it gets chilly. On walks you should wear neutral, earthy tones like beige, green or brown – no whites or brights. And don’t worry about buying chic or stylish garments for walks; comfort is key.
3. WAKE UP FOR THE EARLY SAFARIS: Even if you’re knackered and desperate to stay in bed, those early-morning game drives or walks are some of the most spectacular. This is when a lot of animals come out and some of the sunrises were even more impressive than the sunsets.
4. IGNORE THE WEATHER FORECAST: The Met Office and BBC Weather forecast rain for every day I was in Kruger. Yet it didn’t rain once. It’s best to come prepared for all eventualities – rain jacket, shorts, trousers and binoculars.
5. CASH FOR TIPS: Bring more than you think you’ll need. If you run out of money, it’ll be a struggle to get more and gratuities, although not always expected, are very common. We tipped our guides 200-250 rand per day. You’ll likely want to tip other staff too, such as cooks, cleaners and waiters.
6. BRING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT: Worldwide adaptors rarely work in South Africa – the sockets aren’t common. So order one online before you go and make sure to pack a battery pack if you plan to use your phone to take pictures and videos.
7. DON’T SELF-DRIVE: Self-drives are popular in Kruger and do give you a greater level of independence, but if you’re going for the first time, you’ll see heaps more with the help of a guide. These guides are experts and are connected with all the other guides in the area so will be first to hear of a sighting. They live on site so know exactly where certain herds rest.
8. BRING EARPLUGS: Remember, you’re in the wild, so if you’re a light sleeper, ear plugs are a must. I thought it would be sleep-inducing listening to the hum of animals at night. They were much louder than expected and I was woken up several times by a relentless owl.
9. DON’T JUST CHASE THE BIG FIVE: Everyone likes to say they’ve seen them, but some of my most magical experiences were with creatures I’d never heard of. Even the trees and flora we spotted were fascinating, as were the birds.
10. CHOOSE YOUR STAY WISELY: Camps have their own guides – and each guide or ranger varies in skill and expertise. Do your research and try to book a camp where two guides accompany you on safari as opposed to one – double the people means double your chances of spotting wildlife. We’d met people who were yet to spot a single one of the Big Five in a week, but we’d seen them all in a day and that’s thanks to our guides.
