retreat

Inside Topanga’s ‘Disneyland for dogs,’ a luxury canine retreat like no other

Almost three decades ago, Joe Timko and Randy Neece were wandering through Disneyland, saw Goofy trailing around the gardens and made the connection.

This, but for dogs?

A Disneyland-inspired wonderland for their canine counterparts is what they were thinking. Timko, who Neece describes as “the most impulsive person in the world,” had no hesitation.

“That’s what we should do!” he says.

Dogs run around at the Wonderland yard.

Dogs run around at the Wonderland yard.

That offhand vision has since expanded into Canyon View Ranch, a five-acre luxury retreat tucked into the hills of Topanga that its clients refer to as Disneyland for canines. Designed by married couple Timko and Neece, who worked as a trainer and TV game show director, respectively, this dog boarding retreat is like no other. Think multiple bone-shaped pools, a chauffeured shuttle service, behavioral and weight loss programs, 35 feet of underground tunnels and dedicated lands à la Disneyland, including Adventureland for the bigger hounds and Munchkinland for the little ones and older sports.

Dogs here wake promptly at 5 a.m. for morning exercise, eat breakfast at 6, take scheduled naps at 8, enjoy a “biscuit break” at 5:30 p.m. and are finally tucked in for “lights out” at 8. Ranch activities include hurtling through agility courses, swimming beneath a massive artificial waterfall and roaming sprawling fantasy playgrounds built expressly for their entertainment.

A map of the ranch drawn by Nina Rae Vaughn, the same artist who illustrates Disneyland's official park maps.

A map of the ranch drawn by Nina Rae Vaughn, the same artist who illustrates Disneyland’s official park maps.

(Canyon View Ranch)

Dog owners say that as soon as they pull into the driveway, their pups realize exactly where they’re headed and “start going bonkers,” says Neece. When they’re let loose, they enter Canyon View Ranch with the abandon of children running down Main Street, U.S.A.

Getting to the ranch requires a journey up winding hills, past signs that read “Please Be Kind,” on roads flanked by cacti, chaparral and coastal sage scrub. It looks nothing like the city.

Today, Canyon View Ranch boards around 60 dogs at once, often with a waiting list stretching six months or longer. There is no limitation on how long they can stay, and many of the dogs I meet today have been here for several weeks, totaling thousands with the ranch’s $100 nightly rate. Dogs travel from all over to get here, from Las Vegas to Dubai. Their owners include schoolteachers and secretaries alongside some of Los Angeles’ wealthiest families.

“We could be watching over all the jewelry in their safe,” Neece says, “and it wouldn’t matter as much as their dog.”

On this Wednesday morning, Neece and Timko lead the way through the property. Neece is calmly and casually kind, like a faithful bloodhound without jowls. Timko is sprightly, a live-wire Chihuahua. The two of them live on-site in what looks like a family home straight out of a 1990s Disney film, a white colonial home with blue shutters. There are 20 staff on-site. For Neece and Timko, the job is 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Munchinkland is for smaller and less energetic dogs at Canyon View Ranch.

Munchinkland is for smaller and less energetic dogs at Canyon View Ranch.

A man cuddles dogs welcoming him.

Dogs follow animal care specialist John Highland.

“I have the best job in the world,” says John Highland, former veterinary technician and now one of the ranch’s animal care specialists, as the dogs stream into Adventureland.

A great many dogs run up to me, tails wagging, tongues lolling. Neece and Timko lead me eastward of Adventureland toward the dandelion-headed alpacas, Stumbelina and Sparkle. Other animals on-site include a stable full of horses and Cowboy the tortoise, who is about the size of a lawnmower and whose head protrudes from what looks like a Venus flytrap made of bone.

“They help bring the flavor of fun, and that’s exactly what we want to do here,” Neece says. “We want it to be an escape, just like Disneyland.”

Neece was raised 15 minutes away from Disneyland and developed an obsession with it early on. “I’ve read every book imaginable,” he says. “I have this really deep appreciation for Walt Disney’s vision.”

Every detail of Canyon View Ranch evokes the legendary Anaheim theme park. The property has its own illustrated map, drawn by Nina Rae Vaughn, the same artist who illustrates Disneyland’s official park maps. The dogs’ sleeping quarters are modeled after the park’s Pirates of the Caribbean ride, with its fort-like corridors made of sun-dried brick, the walls strewn with overgrown jungle vines. At Christmas, snow machines cover the grounds while lights are strung through the trees and holiday music plays all day.

The Disney vision has now come full circle. Several members of the Disney family are clients: Roy P. Disney and his wife, Sheri. His sister, Susan Disney Lord, is also a client, along with her children.

Canyon View Ranch even has what Neece describes as its own “Mickey Mouse”: Max the Tibetan terrier. A statue of him sits out front, honoring the first dog Timko and Neece owned together. “Usually, Tibetan terriers come in black and white, but we wanted Max, who came in earth tones, because he matched the furniture,” says Neece. The terrier, it turned out, was a champion, and the owner wouldn’t sell him unless the couple promised to show him. They agreed, and in 1997, Max won best of breed at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show. “All of this started because we made the decision to buy that dog,” says Timko.

Randy Neece, left, and Joe Timko spent years creating a "doggie Disneyland."

Randy Neece, left, and Joe Timko spent years creating a “doggie Disneyland.”

Neece and Timko gaze over the canyon view from which inspired the ranch’s name. After 26 years, they’ve watched three generations of dogs come and go. “One of the things we didn’t count on when we started this was the emotional toll,” says Neece. “Yeah,” Timko adds, “every loss hurts.”

“When Max died, Joe struggled for weeks,” says Neece. “I later realized that a lot of it translated into him worrying about losing me next.”

In the late 1980s, while still working on TV sets, Neece learned he was HIV positive. “It was a death sentence then,” he says.

Larger dogs play in the Wonderland yard.

Larger dogs play in the Wonderland yard.

He survived, one of a comparatively small number of his generation who did. He returned to television briefly, working on two more game shows, one of which included one of his biggest paychecks. (“‘Match Game’ built Canyon View Ranch,” he laughs.)

But something had shifted. “When you go through something like that,” he says, “you really start taking inventory of your life. There’s something about that that frees you up to take a risk. I was ready to reinvent myself.”

The couple sold their house in Laurel Canyon and bought the Topanga property in the late ’90s from Melissa Sue Anderson, who had played Mary Ingalls on “Little House on the Prairie.” Slowly, year after year, they planted every tree alongside ranch foreman David Barrios, dug every tunnel, built every waterfall and themed land, until the place began to resemble the idea they’d first imagined while watching children crowd around Goofy.

Now, late in this hot August afternoon, dogs of every size race through underground tunnels and emerge from the other side even more manically happy than when they entered. The Pomeranian munchkins in Munchkinland skitter around, sniffing wagging butts. A Labrador sprays his friends with water soaked into his fur from the bone-shaped pool. If there is such a thing as the Rainbow Bridge, Canyon View Ranch must be what it looks like on the other side.

Dogs follow John Highland, head trainer, at the Canyon View Ranch.

Dogs dip in a pool and follow John Highland at Canyon View Ranch.

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I went on a romantic couples retreat without the kids

WHEN it comes to booking a family getaway, holiday parks always tick the right boxes for us.

But taking a kid-free, romantic mini-break at one? That probably wouldn’t have made the checklist.

Take in the stunning views and beaches around St Ives Bay Park Credit: Getty
The Sun’s Gemma and partner Liam walk along Towans beach Credit: Supplied

After a blissful weekend in one of the new Butterfly Lodges at St Ives Bay Park, however, I’m more than happy to add it to the list.

The Cornish park has the air of a fancy hotel — only without the steep price tag.  

Snuggled in the golden sand dunes facing the wild Atlantic Ocean on the three-mile, award-winning Towans beach, the front row lodges — all wooden boards and fishing net decking — look more akin to a project from Grand Designs or George Clarke’s Amazing Spaces than a static caravan.

And the luxury look is mirrored inside, too. The master bedroom is kitted out with orange and teal velvets, wooden surfaces and an ultra comfortable super-king bed.

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Plus there is a stylish sideboard in the spacious entrance hallway, mood lighting and sofas and throws worthy of a smart New York apartment.  

Even the bathrooms were a cut above — stylish matt gold taps and smart black framed shower screens. 

And if we had decided to bring the kids, there was also a second bedroom with twin beds that could be converted into another super king, as well as two bunks above, each with their own TV and curtain for privacy.

Looking out towards our private decking area, however, we were a little relieved we’d left our children at home.  

Inside one of the luxury Butterfly Lodges Credit: Supplied
The nearby town of St Ives in this stunning part of Cornwall Credit: Getty

This meant we could enjoy the splendid St Ives sunset views from the hot tub, glass of bubbly in hand, without the fear of being dunked at any minute. Bliss.

Aside from the lavish accommodation, one of the best highlights of a grown-up getaway to St Ives Bay Park is the location.

It goes without saying that this part of Cornwall is utterly stunning and there are walking routes aplenty from your doorstep.

Although if you’re after something truly spectacular, the seven mile hike from Porthcurno (around a 40-minute drive away) to Land’s End along the South West Coast Path is a must.

We started in the white sandy cove of Porthcurno beach which, framed by craggy cliffs and with the clearest blue sea, could have easily been mistaken for a cove in Thailand.

The water, of course, is a tad colder, but some brave souls, including a wetsuit-clad teenager, were having a great time being hurled around in the huge foamy waves.

A steep climb up some stairs carved into the cliffs followed, and then beautiful beach, after beautiful beach, after beautiful beach along the coastal path, from tiny little fishing cove Porthgwarra to the lofty rocks and golden sands of Nanjizal Bay.

It’s a taxing hike, but the views make it totally worthwhile.

Grand Designs lodge on Towans beach Credit: Supplied

Just make sure to plan ahead as the buses back from Land’s End to Porthcurno, where we had parked, are a little unpredictable, so we were stung for a costly taxi ride.

It’s not just glorious beaches and cracking rambling trails that our park was surrounded by either.

The town centre of St Ives is a 15-minute car ride from the lodge and is home to some brilliant little restaurants.

On our first night we had visited Porthminster Beach Cafe, a gorgeously relaxed place that received a mention in the Michelin Guide for its delicious seafood dishes — we tucked into a delicious monkfish curry and a yummy piece of halibut loin with artichoke and chicken butter sauce.

For something a little more casual, though, Talay’s Thai Kitchen really hit the spot.

The pleasingly spicy roasted duck red curry and juicy weeping tiger steak really added some warmth to our windburnt cheeks post hike.

Stuffed and tired after the day’s exertions, it was back to the lodge for a recuperating sunset soak in the hot tub.

We ended the night hunkering down in the gorgeous living area as the wind buffeted the lodge from the Atlantic beyond.

And there hadn’t been a mini disco or mascot in sight. How’s that for an affordable romantic getaway?

GO: ST IVES

STAYING THERE: Four nights’ self-catering at the Butterfly Lodge at St Ives Bay Park costs from £495 in total, arriving in November.

See awayresorts.co.uk

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