holidays

Provence in bloom – exploring its flower festivals and the ‘perfume capital of the world’ | Provence holidays

As I take my seat in Galimard’s Studio des Fragrances, in the Provençal town of Grasse, I limber up my nostrils for the task ahead: to create my own scent from the 126 bottles in front of me. Together they represent a world of exotic aromas, from amber and musk to ginger and saffron. But given that I have left the grey British winter behind to come here, I am more interested in capturing the sunny essence of the Côte d’Azur.

Here in the hills north of Cannes, the colours pop: hillsides are full of bright yellow mimosa flowers, violets are peeping out of flowerbeds and oranges hang heavy on branches over garden walls, even though it’s not yet spring. It is the perfect antidote to the gloom back home, and the chance to bottle these very scents is a joy.

Over the next two hours, with the help of perfumery expert Manon Zamoun, I blend my own perfume that I name “Mimosa trail”. The scents (natural essences or synthetic aromas), are set out on three shelves, the top shelf for the high notes, the bottom for base notes, with the heart notes in between. I sniff, blend and decant; it’s the most rewarding chemistry lesson of my life.

The bottles’ labels are turned away from me so my choices are led by my nose not my brain. I’m surprised to find I liked parma violets and patchouli, while rose d’orient and fleurs de lilas don’t make the cut.

Galimard is Grasse’s oldest perfume house, established in 1747. The trade grew out of the town’s leather tanning industry; with scents created to cover the pong, it became the “perfume capital of the world”. Its other two famous perfume houses, Molinard and Fragonard, opened in 1849 and 1926 respectively, later joined by big names such as Dior, Guérlain and Chanel.

But beyond perfume, Grasse is a delight to wander – a maze of yellow-hued streets, overlooked by towering palm trees and, today at least, a welcome blue sky, though there’s still a little chill in the air. I take comfort in the fact it’s 10 degrees warmer than it is back home because I’m here to fast-forward spring with a short road trip between the lesser-known villages and towns of the Côte d’Azur.

Grasse, where the perfume industry developed initially to cover the smell of the town’s leather tanning trade. Photograph: StockByM/Getty Images

En route to Grasse, I’d stopped at Tourrettes-sur-Loup for another of the region’s flowers: violets. When seen from the south, the village is a jumble of terracotta-roofed houses clinging to a clifftop. It’s known for its tradition of growing the small, purple blooms, and has supplied the perfume industry since Queen Victoria visited in the late 19th century while wintering in Nice, 18 miles (30km) south west of here. The queen gave her name to the variety that was, in her day, cultivated by 40 families in Tourrettes and, thanks to its long stalk, was traditionally given in small posies between Christmas and Valentine’s Day.

At La Bastide aux Violettes, a small museum on the outskirts of the village, I discover more about the flower and its history, and inhale its sweet, delicate scent in the greenhouse, where they grow in vertical columns. There are now only three producers, including Jérôme Coche and his family, who turn the petals into products such as crystalised violet sweets. The village still celebrates the end of the season with La Fête des Violettes in late February/early March, which attracts about 12,000 people (some on coach trips from Italy) with carnival floats, dancing, music and a flower and produce market.

Out of season the village is quieter, awaiting the summer crowds. Wine bar-restaurant La Cave de Tourrettes is buzzing with life though, even on a wet Wednesday evening, and my two-course meal is a superb beef tartare with grana padano, caper berries and cornichons, followed by pork filet mignon and orange-scented sweet potato with braised leeks (mains from €25.50). The next morning, the sky is a blaze of blue and I eat breakfast on the balcony of my townhouse apartment, with a lovely view of the valley towards the Mediterranean.

A cafe in Mandelieu-la-Napoule decorated with mimosas. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

The sun is also shining in Mandelieu-la-Napoule, on the coast, my last stop. Mimosas were just starting to come into bloom on the dramatic route between Tourrettes and the village of Gourdon, which winds through the Gorge du Loup, with its waterfalls, tunnels and steep cliffs – but down on the coast, spring has really sprung.

La Route du Mimosa is a trail through the most impressive blooms, covering 80 miles from Bormes-les-Mimosas to Grasse. Around the town of Mandelieu-la-Napoule – which hosts the Fête du Mimosa, a weekend of celebrations to mark the start of the season in February – there are group hikes into the hills organised by the tourist office, as well as farms to visit and shops where producers have turned its delicate flavour into jams and cordials, and its scent into candles and soaps.

For a thrilling ride and to gain some local knowledge I’ve booked a three-hour tour with La Grande Vadrouille (€160 for one or two). Local guide Daniel Saffioti welcomes me to ride in the side-car of his Chang Jiang Pekin Express motorbike. Daniel knows all the best routes from Mandelieu to Tanneron, a town farther inland where you find mimosas in abundance. After donning my helmet and sunglasses, we set off along the coast road, La Corniche d’Or.

This sinuous route southward to the Cap d’Esterel offers astonishing views of Cannes and its backdrop, the snow-capped Mercantour mountains of the Alpes-Maritimes. Along the road, mimosas burst between palm trees and over the garden walls of luxurious villasWe double back toward Mandelieu, and then motor on into the hills, stopping for a rest just outside Tanneron, where the landscape is a tapestry of olive groves, eucalyptus trees and lavender fields awaiting their summer blooms. A closer inspection of a mimosa tree allows me to breath in its delicate scent and see its fern-like leaves and tiny flowers up close – like little yellow pompoms electrified by the sunshine. Daniel tells me how they were introduced by the British, having been brought from Australia (they are a kind of acacia) and how council workers work hard to keep them from taking over the landscape and roadsides, such is their propensity to thrive in the Provençal climate.

Our tour finishes in Mandelieu and after bidding Daniel farewell, I sit on the terrace of the Biskota cafe for lunch and a mimosa-infused lemonade. In the evening is the opening of the Fête du Mimosa. Gingham-clothed tables and benches are laid out for locals to sit and drink wine and street performers, some on stilts, dance through the crowds. Tomorrow there will be floats adorned with flowers, but tonight a firework display shoots up over the crenellated walls of the waterside chateau. I breath in the sulphurous tang that hangs in the air; it may not be the floral scent of spring, but it doesn’t matter – I’ve got a bottle of that in my bag.

The trip was provided by Côte d’Azur Tourism and Mandelieu-La-Napoule Tourism. La Borgarda in Tourrettes-sur-Loup has a one-bedroom apartment from €195 a night and a three-bedroom townhouse from €330 a night. The Pullman hotel has doubles from £130. Perfume blending at Galimard’ Studio des Fragrances is €99pp

Carolyn Boyd is the author of Amuse Bouche: How to Eat Your Way Around France (Profile, £10.99). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com



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UK hidden valley home to wild ponies and Iron Age hillforts

Nestled in the Cheviot Hills, College Valley in Northumberland is home to wild ponies, roe deer and ancient ruins including Iron Age stone circles, hillforts and a well-preserved Romano-British settlement

Tucked away in the Northumberland hills lies the lush College Valley, teeming with stunning wildlife and ancient ruins.

Maintained by the College Valley Estate, this expanse of countryside is immaculately kept and readily accessible for both walkers and cyclists.

Wandering through the meadows, you’ll encounter wild ponies, roe deer, hares and wild goats, according to Northumberland National Park.

Hethpool

Leaving your vehicle at the Hethpool car park, you can discover remnants of an Iron Age stone circle. The area offers picnic spots along Great Hetha, with ancient fortifications perched above the Hethpool Linn Pools, where you can take a refreshing dip during summer, reports Chronicle Live.

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Northumberland is famed for its rugged coastline, ancient castles and unspoiled natural beauty. Sykes Cottages has a range of places to stay starting from £38 per night

Come autumn, you can witness sea trout and salmon jumping upstream towards their spawning grounds.

Approximately 2,800 years ago, during the Iron Age, communities built timber roundhouses surrounded by substantial wooden palisades. Opposite Hethpool House sits a well-preserved Romano-British settlement.

History

People have lived in this area at least 7,000 years, with traces of late Stone Age farmers.

During the early Bronze Age, when temperatures were warmer than today, farming reached higher altitudes. Various terraced fields and numerous burial cairns survive from this era.

Given its closeness to Scotland, the valley suffered significant devastation during battles between English and Scottish armies throughout the 14th to 16th centuries. Border Reiver raids resulted in the land being plundered.

Hillforts

Northumberland claims Britain’s highest concentration of hillforts, and College Valley is no different. Scattered across the Cheviot Hills, these ancient Iron Age fortifications provide a glimpse into prehistoric settlements.

As an added benefit, they also offer spectacular vantage points overlooking the undulating hills.

Wildlife

Covering more than 12,000 acres, College Valley hosts an abundance of wildlife including flora, trees, birds and even Exmoor ponies to admire.

Bear in mind – mobile phone signal is virtually non-existent and only 12 vehicles are permitted entry daily. If you fancy a longer break surrounded by nature, you can reserve one of the numerous holiday cottages on offer.

Visitors can see everything from the extinct volcano Cheviot Massif to the enchanting Collingwood Oaks.

Tucked away at the valley’s head, just a mile from the Pennine Way, lies Mounthooly Bunkhouse.

Housing 24 guests across three rooms, this charming bunkhouse offers walkers, cyclists and all visitors unique accommodation in a beautifully remote part of the valley.

With beds starting from £17 per night, you may be inclined to prolong your visit and discover more of what the valley has to offer, safe in the knowledge you can return to hot showers and a log burner.

One TripAdvisor review stated: “What a wonderful valley to visit, either walk or to drive through, they only allow 12 cars a day to drive through and you need a permit £10 you can book online.

“It was so peaceful and in May the colour of the gorse it just beautiful. The memorial to the pilots that crashed during WW2 over the Cheviot Hills is so moving.”

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Perfect walk for kids this half-term with gorgeous views and Harry Potter bridge

The trail is an 8.5-mile family-friendly walk through the Peak District with stunning viaduct views, tunnels and plenty of cafes along the flat, accessible route perfect for pushchairs

Featuring views of a bridge looking like something straight out of Harry Potter, this Peak District ramble will delight youngsters without being too demanding on their small legs this half-term.

The Monsal Trail is a beloved Derbyshire spot that traces the route of the old Manchester to London Midland Railway line, which closed down in the 1960s.

These days, it serves a different function – guiding ramblers along the path, through tunnels and across the magnificent railway viaduct.

A recent visitor described their experience on TripAdvisor, stating: “For enthusiasts of railway walks, this route stands out as one of the finest in the UK.

It offers a captivating combination of stunning views, numerous tunnels, and impressive viaducts that showcase the area’s historical and engineering heritage.”

Along the way, there are three cafés-two conveniently located directly on the trail and one set slightly back-providing excellent opportunities to rest and refresh. “

The Route

To reach the trail’s starting point, you’ll need to begin behind Hassop Station, walking past the front of the building and proceeding beneath the bridge.

The route then continues as you pass Longstone Station, Headstone Tunnel and the Monsal Viaduct – all standout and characteristic features of this walk.

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Two shorter tunnels await before you arrive at Miller’s Dale Station. To reach the trail’s end, you’ll need to press on along the viaducts, bearing left beneath the dramatic cliffs of Chee Tor towering above – completing an 8.5-mile route.

What makes this walk so beloved and ideal for a half-term outing is how accessible it is; suitable for pushchairs, wheelchairs and young children alike.

The level terrain allows for an effortless stroll through the dales, whilst the multiple refreshment points dotted along the way make it perfect for little ones requiring a quick loo stop or energy boost.

Cafés

Before your adventure even kicks off, you can pop into Hassop Station for breakfast, all-day brunch, lunch and loads of sweet treats.

Alternatively, you can simply pause for a cuppa, getting fuelled up before a lengthy ramble through the Peak District at this handily positioned café.

It also features shops for a quick browse, stocking books, accessories, homeware and more. Plus, as it’s the trail’s starting point for many visitors, they offer bike hire to tackle the route in style.

One customer commented: “Visited the café three times in our week. By far the best place for breakfast, lunch, coffee and cake. Also the best Bakewell slice we had! The trail is stunning and such a great café to visit before and/or after was a great find we’ll be returning for!”

The refurbished Refreshment Room at Millers Dale Station provides another excellent place to pause for delicious food and refreshments during your journey.

The building stands as a stunning homage to the railway history of the trail and provides ample room to relax or shelter from the weather, complete with toilet facilities and refreshments.

One visitor said: “Stopped here for a bite to eat after a walk, absolutely wonderful café! The coffee was one of the best I’ve tried! Lovely customer service by all staff. Will 100% be going back.”

Where to stay

The Monsal Trail lies in the heart of the Peak District, with Bakewell positioned at one end and Blackwell Mill, near Buxton, at the opposite end.

This positioning makes it a favoured route for visitors exploring these major towns who fancy extending their stroll into a weekend break. Alternatively, it’s just over an hour’s drive from Derby city centre.

Bakewell is famous for the much-loved Bakewell Tart, available in practically every café and coffee shop throughout the town. The area also boasts numerous pubs offering more substantial meals following a lengthy day’s ramble.

Buxton, meanwhile, is a spa town, renowned for its natural spring water and status as Britain’s highest market town. Visitors typically choose a weekend break here for the spa facilities, tranquillity and easy access to excellent walking and cycling routes.

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I went to the African town with a beautiful Italian-style attraction… but without the crowds or the price

ARE you not entertained? You will be if you are at a gladiators’ colosseum with no queues and no crowds for just three quid.

El Jem is the world’s third-biggest Roman amphitheatre, but it is not in Italy. You’ll find it in Tunisia instead.

The Amphitheatre of El Jem, Tunisia, showing the arena and tiered seating under a blue sky.
Tunisia’s mighty El Jem amphitheatre rivals Rome’s Colosseum — but with no queues and entry for just £3Credit: Getty
The Mediterranean coastline at Monastir, Tunisia, featuring a sandy beach with thatched umbrellas, a Tunisian flag, and a castle in the background.
Life Of Brian was filmed in MonastirCredit: Getty

The 35,000-seat stone structure dates from the 3rd century AD.

Built by local imperial official Gordian, later emperor Gordian II, it is as spectacular as the 50,000-capacity Rome Colosseum it is based on, minus the £15.80pp admission and crowds. 

At some point you will likely be told Russell Crowe’s epic movie Gladiator was shot at El Jem. Unleash hell on that film “fact” as it wasn’t! 

But if you want to channel your inner Maximus Decimus Meridius in a real gladiatorial arena, there is ample space. 

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It is well preserved despite being plundered for local construction after the Romans left, then bombarded by Ottoman troops in the 17th century when rebels sheltered inside.  

Today it hosts summer classical music concerts and offers a fascinating insight into Roman times. 

My wife Debbie and I were amazed how much freedom to, er, roam we had when we visited in early September. 

No queues to get in, no forests of selfie sticks – we went straight in to the underground chambers where lions, tigers, leopards and bears were kept. 

Then we headed up past the posh seats (close enough to the action for blood splashes!) to the lofty third tier for great photo opps from where the plebs jeered and cheered. 

We finished in the arena where gladiators – in what was imperial outpost Thysdrus in Roman times – battled those animals and each other and criminals were executed by being thrown to leopards. Lion v bear fights? Yep, that too. 

Take a sun hat, as this place is on the edge of the Sahara and can get ferociously hot. But there is a shady cafe for a cooling drink or ice cream.





While Sousse is brilliant for soaking up the sunshine year-round, with September temperatures in the high 20s, heading out to discover more of this fascinating country makes a perfect break from the sunlounger. 

You can visit El Jem (in the town of the same name) by taxi or train if you are staying around Sousse or Monastir, but we joined an excellent all-day coach tour with easyJet holidays’ partner Musement from our Sousse hotel (£60pp, with lunch). 

While Sousse is brilliant for soaking up the sunshine year-round, with September temperatures in the high 20s, heading out to discover more of this fascinating country makes a perfect break from the sunlounger. 

Our day-trip itinerary also included the 670 AD Great Mosque of Kairouan, one of the most prominent in Islam, and the ornate ‘Barber’ Mosque, where guide Ibrahim offered a toe-curling “snippet” about 17th-century circumcision techniques.  

There’s a genuine movie moment at the final stop in charming, historic Monastir. 

The Ribat, an 8th-century Islamic fort, featured in Monty Python’s Life Of Brian but, whether you are the Messiah or just a very naughty boy, it is a must with the tower offering fine views over the mausoleum of Tunisia’s first president, Habib Bourguiba, the beach and marina. Like El Jem, it’s social media selfie heaven. 

Definitely a thumbs up for this gladia-tour. 

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L.A. music history is all around. Here are 26 sites worth visiting

As a child, I spent nearly every weekend with my best friend shooting hoops and jumping fences throughout Hollywood.

It was always amusing seeing tourists — especially foreigners — line up around buildings and outside nightclubs and lounges that held no meaning to me, at the time.

These monuments I ignored as a youngster became the must-see places of my teenage years and early 20s.

It was at the Viper Room where a 20-year-old me was tossed out of line trying to crash the same venue where Pearl Jam had played.

I was first scandalized by the price of a drink for a date’s $10 cocktail at the Troubadour in West Hollywood (I think I was making $6.50 an hour at the time). But I had to visit one of Jim Morrison’s favorite haunts.

So I was delighted when The Times entertainment team compiled its list of 26 legendary music sites in L.A.

It was fun to see favorites, but more importantly, to read about new places and legends.

Hopefully, there’s a spot that intrigues you. Let’s take a look at a few selections.

Capitol Records (Hollywood)

The most famous tower in all of music was never overtly intended to look like a stack of LPs and a stylus needle.

“The building was not designed as a cartoon or a giggle. To have it trivialized with the stack-of-records myth is annoying and dismaying,” architect Louis Naidorf has said of his Capitol Records Building. “There’s not a thing on the building that doesn’t have a solid purpose to it.”

That was no obstacle for it becoming emblematic of both Los Angeles and the record business. It’s still home to one of the most renowned recording studios on Earth, and its silhouette remains a Hollywood icon and a symbol of Los Angeles on par with the Hollywood sign nearby.

Memorial wall for musician Elliott Smith.

(Ken Hively/Los Angeles Times)

Elliott Smith Wall (Silver Lake)

The beloved singer-songwriter Elliott Smith posed at the swooping mural outside Solutions speaker repair in Silver Lake for the cover of his LP “Figure 8” in 2000.

After he died by suicide in 2003, the wall became an unofficial memorial for Smith, where fans left touching notes, song lyrics and nips of liquors mentioned in his songs.

While the wall has been cut out in spots to make room for various restaurants — and it’s often covered in more flagrant tagging — it’s still a living connection to one of the city’s most cherished voices.

John Mayer (right) and McG aka Joseph McGinty Nichol owners of Henson Studios.

(Jason Armond/Los Angeles Times)

Chaplin Studio (Hollywood)

John Mayer calls it “adult day care”: the historic recording studio behind the arched gates on La Brea Avenue where famous musicians have been keeping themselves — and one another — creatively occupied since the mid-1960s.

Known for decades as Henson Studios — and as A&M Studios before that — the 3-acre complex in the heart of Hollywood has played host to the creation of some of music’s most celebrated records, among them Carole King’s “Tapestry,” Joni Mitchell’s “Blue,” Guns N’ Roses’ “Use Your Illusion” and D’Angelo’s “Black Messiah.”

Charlie Chaplin, who was born in London, began building the lot in 1917 in a white-and-brown English Tudor style; he went on to direct some of his best-known films, including “Modern Times” and “The Great Dictator,” on the property.

The Lighthouse Cafe (Hermosa Beach)

The Lighthouse Cafe might seem familiar from its cameo in the Oscar-winning movie “La La Land,” but this jazz cafe was once instrumental in shaping the West Coast jazz scene.

The beachside spot first opened as a restaurant in 1934 and was changed into a bar by the 1940s. It first started to play jazz in 1949 when the owner let bassist Howard Rumsey host a recurring jam session. The jams quickly began to draw both a vivacious crowd of listeners and a core group of budding jazz musicians.

Over the years, musicians like Chet Baker, Gerry Mulligan, Miles Davis and Max Roach all made regular appearances at the Lighthouse. Today, the venue still hosts jazz brunches every Sunday and other musical gigs throughout the week.

For more, here is the entire list.

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What’s the difference between EES and ETIAS? Everything you need to know about the new travel rules this year

LOTS has and is changing in the world of travel and it can be confusing to keep up – but there are two vital changes for Brits.

Last year a new system known as the Entry/Exit System (EES) was introduced and later this year, the European Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS) will be introduced.

Both ETIAS and EES impact Brits travelling to EU countriesCredit: Getty

Both impact Brits travelling to much-loved holiday destinations including Spain, France and Greece.

But what are they both and how are they different?

EU Entry/Exit System (EES)

EES stands for Entry/Exit System and is a new digital border system in Europe.

Anyone who is not a European national, which includes Brits, and is travelling for a short stay (up to 90 days within any 180-day period) within EU countries will now be tracked when they enter and exit that country.

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In order to do this, a new system was put in place where travellers scan their fingerprints and have their photo taken when they are at the border of an EU country.

If you have not done this before, you will have to register at a kiosk when travelling to a participating country.

However, this is usually done as a selection process as the new system is being rolled out in phases until April 2026.

If you are selected, your passport will be scanned, as well as your fingerprints and your photo will be taken.

You will also be asked some questions about your travels, such as why you are visiting the country you have arrived into and where you will be staying whilst you are in the country.

Your data will then be stored in the Biometric Matching Service for three years.

If you travel again within these three years to EU countries, you will only need to scan your face or a fingerprint.

Children under 12-years-old will not need to give their fingerprints.

The system has been introduced to hopefully make border checks faster and more modern.

EES is already being rolled out and requires you to scan your fingerprint and faceCredit: Getty

It also allows authorities to track who comes in and out of the Schengen Area – which is a zone in Europe that allows passport-free travel under a common visa policy.

Some of The Sun Travel team have experienced EES already.

Sophie Swietochowski, Assistant Travel Editor, said: “I travelled through Alicante Airport the other day, guided to the EES kiosks set just prior to border control, where the traditional passport stamping system is still in place for Brits.

“The assumption by airport staff was that every Brit getting off the plane wouldn’t have registered yet.

“There was a high number of kiosks, where staff were busy guiding Brits through the registration process: first, language selection; then passport scan (just like the one at electronic border control); next a facial picture; then fingerprint scans are taken.

“For me, along with about 30 per cent of the other travellers around me, the kiosk wouldn’t register my fingerprints, so I was sent to border control where my passport was stamped in the traditional way.

“On the return leg, Brits have to go to the same kiosks, this time in departures. They will be asked to go through the same process before passing through border control to reach the non-Schengen gates.”

Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter, said: “On my arrival at Vilnius Airport in Lithuania, I was quickly ushered towards the new EES machines for registration.

The new system allows individuals to be tracked as the enter and exit EU countriesCredit: Getty

“Luckily I was one of the first off the plane and had plenty of time to do so.

“The first thing I had to do was select my language, then it began the process.

“It will scan your passport first, then take a photo of you, and then scan your fingerprints.

“I was then asked a few questions about my trip, like if I had proof of accommodation, what my citizenship status is, if I had a return travel ticket, money to fund my holiday and medical insurance – where you answer yes, no or other in some cases.

“Registration took just a few minutes, but I then had to queue up at border control for almost an hour.

“Here they still stamped my passport and asked further questions like the name of my hotel and proof of my return journey.”

The system is expected to be fully operational by April 10, 2026 – which means if you travel after then and haven’t yet been registered, you will be at that point.

The participating countries for the EES are:

  • Austria
  • Belgium
  • Bulgaria
  • Croatia
  • Czechia
  • Denmark
  • Estonia
  • Finland
  • France
  • Germany
  • Greece
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • Italy
  • Latvia
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxembourg
  • Malta
  • Netherlands
  • Norway
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Romania
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Spain
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland

European Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS)

On the other hand, ETIAS is a completely different system and stands for European Travel Information and Authorisation.

This is a new system that will allow visitors to enter countries within the Schengen Area and other participating countries.

Sounds like EES, right?

Wrong – ETIAS is essentially a visa waiver that is linked to your passport and says you can visit a country.

Whereas EES is the system that tracks you when you eventually visit that country.

ETIAS is essentially a visa waiver that is linked to your passport and says you can visit a countryCredit: Getty

Any national who is visa-exempt, including Brits, will have to get ETIAS authorisation.

It will be valid for up to three years, or until your passport expires – whichever is soonest.

To get ETIAS authorisation, you will need to visit the official ETIAS website and follow the instructions on its portal.

The application should only take a couple of minutes to complete, but it may take up to 30 days to be approved – so it is best to be prepared.

Unlike EES, you will also need to pay for ETIAS – like you would do with an ESTA for America.

ETIAS will cost €20 (£17) per person, but travellers under 18 and over 70 do not need to pay the fee (though they still have to apply for one).

ETIAS hasn’t started yet, but is expected to begin in late 2026, with a specific introduction date to be announced by the EU closer to the time.

These 30 European countries require visa-exempt travellers to have an ETIAS travel authorisation

  • Austria
  • Belgium
  • Bulgaria
  • Croatia
  • Cyprus
  • Czechia
  • Denmark
  • Estonia
  • Finland
  • France
  • Germany
  • Greece
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • Italy
  • Latvia
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxembourg
  • Malta
  • Netherlands
  • Norway
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Romania
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Spain
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland

In other important travel news, there are 37 new flights launching from a major UK airport this year.

Plus, the UK’s busiest train station with 100million passengers finally gets go ahead for controversial £1.2billion expansion.

ETIAS will be introduced later this yearCredit: Getty

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All the food and drink banned on easyjet flights in 2026 — full list

Watch out for the 100ml limit on some types of food

Picking up a snack or beverage during your flight can make a real difference to your travel experience when jetting off on holiday. Carriers like easyJet offer a wide selection of refreshments and nibbles available for purchase.

That said, these items can come with a hefty price tag, and when you’re travelling with the whole family, the bill can quickly spiral. Fortunately, passengers are typically allowed to bring their own food on board, though certain products are completely banned.

Exact regulations differ between airlines, but there are standard restrictions that apply across most UK carriers in 2026.

EasyJet permits passengers to bring their own food on flights, whilst also providing an assortment of snacks and beverages for sale during the journey.

The airline urges travellers to familiarise themselves with particular rules concerning the importation of certain food products at their destination, reports the Express.

EasyJet said: “There’s a 100ml limit for liquid food, like soup or custard. Different countries have different regulations about importing food and drink, so make sure you check the rules for your destination.

“You can bring alcohol bought in the airside departure lounge into the cabin, as long as it’s unopened. Alcohol must be lower than 70% abv, and packed either in an airport shopping bag or in your cabin bag. It’s strictly forbidden to drink any alcohol that has not been purchased on board the aircraft and those found consuming their own alcohol may face prosecution.

“You can bring hot drinks on board if you’ve bought them at the airport and they have a lid on.

“The 100ml liquid limit doesn’t apply to baby food, milk or sterilised water, provided that the total amount is no more than two litres. You may be asked to taste it for security reasons.”

Banned food and drinks on easyJet flights

  • Any liquid food over 100ml, like soup, yoghurt or custard
  • Bottles of alcohol that have been opened. Alcoholic beverages may only be consumed if purchased on board during the flight.
  • More than two litres of baby food or formula
  • Hot drinks without a lid on

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12 of the best free or budget activities across the UK to keep the kids busy in half term

Collage of a dinosaur costume, a person in a "Dino Expo" vest, silhouette cutouts of historical figures, ostriches, and a Viking reenactment.

TREAT the kids to a fantastic half-term day out this week without breaking the bank.

There are superb free and low-cost events across the UK promising a lot of laughs at festivals, farms, forests, castles and animal parks. Trisha Harbord has selected a dazzling dozen.

Treat the kids to a fantastic half-term day out this week without breaking the bank, including a stay at ButlinsCredit: supplied

FESTIVAL FUN

WITH a name like Super Duper, it is bound to be a great family festival.

For four days in half-term, Manchester is transformed into a giant playground with free activities in public spaces, cultural venues and landmark destinations such as the Central Library and Great Northern Warehouse.

There is storytelling with CBeebies, crafts, dancing, music workshops, shows and sports. Get a photo beside a Formula 1 car, or try the Lego workshop.

There will also be a carnival with a Victorian carousel and stalls, in St Ann’s Square.

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GO: From February 18-21. Free. See visitmanchester.com

MARITIME MARVEL

Pick up a pass from Portsmouth Historic Quarter’s Visitor Centre to access heritage sites for freeCredit: PR Supplied

EXPLORE 300 years of fascinating maritime heritage for free.

Pick up a pass from Portsmouth Historic Quarter’s Visitor Centre to access the boathouse, exhibitions and beautiful gardens.

Fantastic artwork installations include the new Standing With Giants — silhouettes of military figures, including Winston Churchill — to celebrate wartime sacrifice.

You can also see iconic vessels including the aircraft carrier HMS Queen Elizabeth, currently docked here.

GO: Free. See portsmouthhq.org.

BRICK SAFARI

THERE’S a new destination for Lego fans — Longleat Safari Park.

The Wiltshire estate is celebrating its 60th anniversary with a Brick Week, including tiny versions of animals, from lorikeets to giraffes.

Families can build creatures, structures, trees or plants, to become part of the brick safari.

Longleat’s Scott Ashman said: “It’s 60 years since the first drive-through safari outside of Africa.

“The brick safari will grow throughout the week.”

Enjoy adventure playgrounds, the railway or lake’s jungle cruise before driving to meet the real animals.

GO: Until February 22. Adult from £39.95, children £29.95, under-threes free. See longleat.co.uk.

FABULOUS FORESTS

RAIN or shine, get the kids outside with Forestry England.

There are trails, cycle courses, play areas and stargazing in woodlands across the country, including Hicks Lodge, Leics; Gisburn Forest, Lancs; and Kent’s Jeskyns Community Woodland.

A highlight is the Room On The Broom trail, based on Julia Donaldson’s famous story, at sites across the country, with themed activities to help the witch find her hat and wand.

An adventure pack costs £4 and includes a lanyard, stickers and spell cards.

Many forests also have a Gruffalo orienteering course, with giant sculptures littered among the trees.

GO: For free and low-cost events, see forestryengland.uk.

HORSING AROUND

Falkirk boasts the biggest steel horse heads in the world, standing at 100ft tallCredit: Alamy

MARVEL at the magnificent 100ft horse head sculptures that are the pride and joy of Falkirk.

The Helix: Home Of The Kelpies offers tours to learn about the engineering and how they represent the country’s history and industry, with horses having played a huge role in the development of the area.

There are exhibitions about the steel horse heads — the largest in the world.

And the surrounding Helix parkland has an adventure zone and splash play.

It is also perfect for walking and cycling.

GO: Tour for adult £8.50, child £3.50 (free with an adult ticket), under-fives free. See thehelix.co.uk.

ANIMAL KINGDOMS

Zoo tickets are discounted at top attractions around the country – with a variety of eventsCredit: PR Supplied

LET the kids play at being vets, with a third off zoo tickets.

Vets In Action runs throughout this week at London Zoo and Whipsnade, Beds.

Youngsters will be shown how to do a health check on real animals while practising on cuddly toys.

At London, they will join a rescue mission to save precious Darwin’s frogs from extinction.

And at Whipsnade — a 600-acre site with 11,000 animals — kids can learn about the conservation and well-being of the chimpanzees.

GO: Until February 22. Adult tickets from £29 and children £20.30, under-threes free. Use code WEB30 at londonzoo.org and whipsnadezoo.org.

ADVENTURE TRAILS

NATIONAL Trust properties have a huge selection of events for little outdoor adventurers.

Croft Castle, near Leominster in Herefordshire, has a Wildlife Detectives trail where kids track down clues among the trees.

The 17th century manor house, complete with turrets and towers, has a secret garden and play area with rope swings and balance beams among 1,500 acres of parkland.

There is a welly hunt at Charlecote Park, Warks; orienteering at Wentworth Castle, South Yorks, and a Winnie the Pooh exhibition at Nymans, West Sussex.

GO: Croft Castle family ticket costs from £42.50. Detective trail with a prize costs £3. See nationaltrust.org.uk.

MAGICAL RESORT

HAVE a spell-binding time in Blackpool as the resort bursts into life for the February Festival of Circus and Magic.

There are free spectacular shows, live performances and hands-on workshops for four days at venues including the Blackpool Tower.

Street entertainers roaming through the town centre include singer Elton

Wrong driving a white piano. Try your hand at puppetry and circus skills.

Last year’s Britain’s Got Talent winner, magician Harry Moulding, headlines a show at the Pleasure Beach Resort.

GO: From February 19-22. Festival free. Harry’s show from £12.50. See visitblackpool.com/febfest.

PERFECT PASS

The Jorvik Viking Centre in York provides a fascinating journey back in time for visitorsCredit: PR Supplied

PACK in a host of attractions in York, there is something for all the family.

Most famous sights are just a short walk from one another and you can take your pick from 35 with a one-day pass.

They include the 7th century Minster — one of the world’s most magnificent cathedrals — the Jorvik Viking Centre, which is a fascinating journey back in time, and The Cocoa Works — a yummy lesson in chocolate-making.

Why not take a sightseeing tour down the River Ouse to hear about York’s history with City Cruises?

GO: A day’s Visit York Pass costs from £65 per adult, child £40. See yorkpass.com.

BARGAIN GARDENS

HERE is an offer you can’t refuse — pay what you can afford to enjoy a major attraction.

Throughout February, Cornwall’s Lost Gardens of Heligan, which normally cost £28 an adult and £12.50 a child, are letting families choose their own admission price.

The Neon Jungle roller rink is a highlight this half-term — skate to a playlist of retro hits.

Meet the Home Farm animals, including piglets, goats and donkeys, take part in question-time sessions and try horse tail-braiding. There’s a shop and cafe, too.

GO: Skate session £10. See heligan.com.

CUT PRICE FUN

BUTLIN’S is slashing day visit prices until February 26. There is 20 per cent off at Minehead and Skegness, and ten per cent off at Bognor Regis.

Families have access to the Skyline Pavilion at all resorts, with a packed schedule of shows and activities including Dino Expo, where kids come face-to-face with pre-historic predators.

There are fairground rides, Splash Waterworld pools with slides and flumes, football, plus arts and crafts sessions.

Bognor Regis has a four-storey soft play centre for 200 children, and the sister parks have playgrounds with climbing towers and trampolines.

GO: Adult day pass now costs from £29, child £12. See butlins.com.

CUDDLY ENCOUNTERS

Visitors to Park Hall will get an early taste of spring at a lambing festivalCredit: PR Supplied

IT always feels like spring is on its way at a lambing festival.

Get up close to the cuddly newborns at Park Hall Countryside Experience, Shrops, and, if you are lucky, see a birth.

The team will be on hand to educate youngsters on the new arrivals.

There are lots of other animals too including ponies, pigs, alpacas and chinchillas, on the farm near Oswestry.

And there are fun activities galore, with indoor play areas, science and music rooms, tractor and barrel train rides, go-karts, an adventure course and a 130ft zip wire.

GO: Until February 22. Ticket £14.95. See parkhallfarm.co.uk.

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Britain’s smallest town named one of the coolest spots in the country with cosy pubs and coastal walks

A PICTURESQUE riverside town in Essex has been named one of the coolest destinations in the country.

Manningtree in Essex is known for being the smallest town in Britain, but this gem of a spot has a lot packed within it.

Manningtree in Essex is known for being the smallest town in BritainCredit: Alamy

According to The Sunday Times, Manningtree is best “for the Essex girl 2.0″ with “understated charm, overwhelmingly indie high street and stellar sunsets”.

The town, which is sat on the River Stour, is believed to get its name from ‘many trees’ and is within a short distance of the Dedham Area of Natural Beauty making it an ideal base for walks and cycling.

In the town itself there are lots of Georgian and Victorian buildings.

Matching its tiny size, the town also has a tiny beach – Manningtree Beach.

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One recent visitor said: “Beautiful area for both sunrise and sunsets.

“Plenty of free easy parking right by the river side.

“Walk into town grab some food and then sit on one of the many benches and watch the sun go down.”

The town is also ideal for a coastal walk, and if you want to grab a bite to eat, head to Italian restaurant Lucca, which serves wood-fired pizzas and classic pasta dishes.

Just outside of Manningtree you will find Mistley Towers, which were designed by Robert Adams.

The towers were originally a parish church that was built in the 18th century in a Georgian style, but today only the two towers remain.

The town has a number of independent shops to explore as well.

And then there’s Manningtree’s oldest pub – The Red Lion – which has a cosy atmosphere inside with a roaring fireplace.

Customers can even bring their own food to the pub, whether that be fish and chips, Indian, Chinese or even pizza and then cutlery is provided free of charge.

When there you can head to Mistley Towers which is all that remains of an 18th century parish churchCredit: Alamy
Trains go over the Manningtree Viaduct for amazing views along the wayCredit: Alamy

All you need to do is order a tipple.

Many of the local takeaways will even deliver directly to the pub.

The pub also hosts an array of events including open mic nights, comedy shows, craft sessions and Six Nations nights.

One recent visitor said: “I adore The Red Lion, it’s my go to place if I want a cheeky beer/cider or what have you – with friends or on my own.

“Always a lovely welcoming and friendly atmosphere.”

If you fancy something a little different, Visit Essex has a self-guided tour that you can follow inspired by the 17th century East Anglian witch trials.

During this period, around 300 people were tried for witchcraft and 100 were executed as they were believed to be ‘witches’.

The Red Lion is the oldest pub in ManningtreeCredit: Helen Wright

There are a couple of places to stay too including The Crown Pub and Hotel.

Inside, guests will find four rooms, each with its own elegant style.

The rooms are also dog-friendly and cost from around £110 per night.

The city of Colchester is just a 23-minute drive away as well, where you can explore Colchester Castle or head off on a historic walking tour.

For more on places to visit across the UK, here are 17 of the UK’s best hidden gems to visit in 2025, according to our travel experts.

Plus, here are five top hidden gem attractions in the UK according to experts from Venetian palaces to hidden gold mines.

The small town even has its own beachCredit: Alamy

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I visited the UK’s smallest city with pretty high street and 26 nearby beaches

“IT’S definitely your best picture ever.”

That was the verdict from my son when I proudly showed off my hot-off-the-easel painting after an inspiring “art experience” on a weekend break in Wales.

Pembrokeshire’s golden beaches are the big draw and even in winter they are breathtakingCredit: Alamy
Lucy Shersby enjoyed an inspiring ‘art experience’ on a weekend break in WalesCredit: Supplied

It was the highlight of my time in St David’s, Pembrokeshire, with Coastal Cottages.

The location is the UK’s smallest city — more of a village with a stonking great cathedral attached.

Our base was the cosy Goat Street Cottage — a traditional end-of- terrace kitted out in a very comfortable country style.

It sleeps five and has everything for a short break, a longer holiday or even a family Easter or Christmas.

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The centre of St David’s is a few yards away and yet it’s incredibly quiet.
Pembrokeshire’s golden beaches are the big draw and even in winter they are breathtaking.

The water was turquoise, the skies blue and the sand seemed to go on for ever.

This is a national park lined by a stunning coastal path. At Whitesands Bay, surfers were catching the waves.

The fact the water was icy made no difference.

There isn’t just one beach here — the St David’s Peninsula has 26.

Solva, a quaint inlet, and Newgale — backed by massive pebble bank — were among our favourites.

We were the odd ones out as we didn’t have a dog. Among the walkers they were almost compulsory.

There are signs everywhere for dog ice cream, dog menus and home-made dog treats.

Many of Coastal’s 400 cottages welcome four-legged visitors too.

Ours had a dog bed in the living room although pets are not allowed on sofas or upstairs.

The crashing waves were our muse when we met artist Jill Jones for a two-hour lesson booked through the cottage’s concierge service.

Jill is a human dynamo who, after a 30-year career in graphic design, built her own studio in Talbenny loaded with art equipment.

Our base was the cosy Goat Street Cottage — a traditional end-of- terraceCredit: Supplied
It sleeps five and has everything for a short breakCredit: Supplied

MAGICAL MEMORY

She has a unique technique and doesn’t believe in doing more than a few strokes with one brush.

So every few seconds we had fresh brushes in our hands with the used ones tossed into a large bucket.

Her step-by-step teaching was truly motivating.

It was the first time in years anyone had really shown me proper acrylic painting skills so I could achieve a result I wanted to hang on my wall.

The concierge service can also deliver hampers of Welsh produce or flowers to your cottage or book activity days ranging from boat trips to spa treatments, cooking classes or flying lessons.

It turns a cottage stay into a magical memory.

Pleased with our masterpieces, we treated ourselves to a hearty and delicious Sunday lunch at The Castle pub in Little Haven.

Back in St David’s, there was just time for a final browse of the shops.

The cosy cottage stay in St David’s turned into a magical memory, with lots to explore nearby

Arts and crafts abound, from the Goat Street Gallery to Solva Woollen Mill and the Window On Wales which had so many covetable gifts it felt like Etsy on steroids.

For the family back home, we grabbed some handmade treats from Chapel Chocolates and the MamGu Welshcake bakery.

If you want to eat out on a Sunday evening, be warned. Despite having a three-Michelin-rosette restaurant and a tapas bar, the town was mostly closed — but this was in winter.

Luckily Saffron met our needs for a final Indian meal.

At the Oriel Y Parc visitor centre we topped up the EV — the break had already recharged our human batteries.

GO: St David’s

STAYING THERE: A week at Goat Street Cottage for up to five starts from £620 in total.

See coastalcottages.co.uk or call 01437 765 765.

OUT AND ABOUT: The Art Your Way experience with Jill Jones, booked through Coastal Concierge, costs from £55 per person.

For more info, see coastalcottages.co.uk.

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‘I’m a flight attendant – here’s what really happens if you die at 30,000 feet’

Former flight attendant turned travel expert Jane Hawkes has told the Mirror what really happens if a passenger dies aboard an aircraft, while dispelling one widely circulated myth

A former flight attendant has opened up about what really happens should a passenger die at 30,000 feet, and the strict procedures crew members must adhere to.

Sadly, the fact is, we will all die one day, and we cannot always decide where this final parting with take place. With thousands of travellers jetting all across the world every day, it’s of course inevitable that not everybody who boards will reach their destination with their eyes still open. Fortunately, should such a sad event come to pass, you’ll be in good hands with the cabin crew, who will be specially trained to deal with this sort of onboard tragedy with care, dignity, and above all, discretion.

The Mirror heard from travel expert Jane Hawkes. Now a consumer champion, who specialises in travel, in a former life, Jane worked as a stewardess for a major UK airline. And as you might imagine from a job dealing with people from all walks of life amid the clouds, Jane, like all those in her profession, has to be prepared for the unexpected at all times.

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Discussing the skills required of all those who serve in the sky, Jane, from Gloucestershire, told the Mirror: “They’d have to go through aviation medical training to provide CPR if needed, to provide basic first aid, at least onboard an aircraft.” Within this training, flight attendants are also warned that there may be occasions when they are unable to resuscitate a passenger, after which point they will need to deal with a very different set of protocols.

According to Jane, who is now a Consumer Champion at ladyjaney.co.uk : “Obviously, if the passenger cannot be resuscitated, is showing no signs of life, then they would ask if there was a doctor or medical professional onboard because it’s not a crew decision to officially pronounce death. They would ask for a medical doctor, and they would then move them to a less visible area if possible. It could well be that the aeroplane is full. If the aeroplane is full, if all seats are taken, then they will just have to keep the body in the seat that it’s in, perhaps move it to the side, So at least move it somewhere so it’s in a side position if possible, because obviously, we dont want to be heavinga body around from one side of the aircraft to another and then cover the body.”

The crew will then make sure to wrap the deceased in blankets “as much as possible”, with a focus on preserving “dignity”. Jane explained: “Bodies, obviously, after they’re deceased, they’re not the nicest things to be around, and that’s the priorities, it’s safety and dignity. This is not a safety issue; this is a dignity issue in many respects, and it is unfortunate, of course, if it’s a long flight because that body will remain in situ for quite a long period of time.”

As challenging as this situation might be, Jane says it’s “very, very, almost completely unlikely” that the plane would divert in this instance, for a whole host of reasons, especially that, with no life left to save, this wouldn’t be considered a medical emergency. Indeed, it’s far more likely that the flight will continue on its intended journey, with the crew left to deal with the practical realities of having a body on a plane. This will naturally involve making sure to keep other passengers relaxed and as in the dark as possible about what’s going on.

Jane emphasised: “It’s kept very, very discreet, about as discreet as you can possibly do in the circumstances. Particularly if you’re the person who ends up sitting next to said body, which is still a possibility. They move people around as much as they possibly can, but you can’t magic seats up out of nowhere.”

In the course of her own career, Jane has had colleagues who’ve had to deal with this sort of heartbreaking situation, dealing with it by moving the deceased to a “less visible area” if possible, which may include the crew rest area. Meanwhile, passengers are given “very little information”, and may simply be alerted that there’s been a medical situation, with no further details.

Encouraging people to show compassion in this sort of devastating situation, Jane noted, “They will speculate, you see, this is it. People do speculate, and I think it’s quite worrying in that kind of instance. I think if anybody is on a plane and this happens, or they suspect that it’s happened, then just maybe bear in mind the dignity of the deceased and also those travelling with them. Because it may well be that there’s someone else. If you’re thinking about someone elderly, this was an elderly passenger that I’m thinking if in particular, it can happen anywhere at any time, but it happened on an aircraft.”

For many of us, this isn’t where we’d choose to spend our final moments, but Jane hopes that passengers will be reassured by the professionalism of the crew, who will be looking out for them “when the chips are down”. Of course, as pointed out by Jane, such instances demonstrate just how vital this sort of job actually is, with stewards and stewardesses being far more than simply “glorified hostesses in the air”. Stressing just how varied this role can be, Jane told us: “They are primarily there for your safety and well-being, and things like this are part and parcel of it. Sometimes they’re judge and juries, sometimes you’ve got restraint. So it’s much more than just serving you tea and coffee. In fact, that is just the fluffy bit that goes on top.”

On this topic, Jane has addressed rumours that flight attendants will go to extreme lengths to make it appear as though a deceased individual is still alive, perhaps “putting a hat on them so they can look at the TV or something.” As per Jane, nothing could be further from the truth. Jane said: “The crew are just going to keep it as simple and dignified as possible. You know, they’re not going to create a drama, a scenario where it looks like someone is still there. So I think, maybe dark glasses and a hat aren’t going to be the case. Looking towards the screen, positioned, you know it’s just not going to happen.”

Once the wheels hit tarmac, the crew face another challenge in terms of getting passengers disembarked safely and calmly, while continuing to preserve the privacy of the deceased and any loved ones who’d been travelling with them. It’s at this point that the emergency services will come on board. Outlining this process, Jane shared: “It could be, it depends on the procedures at whatever destination it is, it’s most likely that they would get the passengers off, and then they’d remove the deceased. So that is the most likely outcome. However, so people may notice then, while they’re getting their things together, that something’s not moving. So that may be noticed.

“But it could be, it could potentially happen that the body might go off first. But I think the best thing to state is that the emergency services will board and then the body will be taken off the aircraft. But passengers are usually allowed to leave their seats first. So you’ll clear the aircraft, and then you’ll deal with that.” She added, “In a medical emergency, you’d all be staying seated, and the medical and the passenger would go off first. So people might start to think, ‘it’s a medical situation they’ve come on the aircraft, but they’re waiting for us to get off first. They might think that’s a bit odd. But then they’ll realise perhaps there’s a bit more of a serious medical situation.”

Of course, once the body is off the plane, there will be further responsibilities to face, including a potential repatriation process. While it’s an ending few would imagine for themselves or a loved one, there is comfort to be found in knowing that, should the worst come to pass, cabin crew will be prepared and equipped to deal with such a sensitive situation.

Do you have a story to share? Email me at julia.banim@reachplc.com

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‘The most quietly romantic town we have ever visited’ – the enduring charm of Chiavenna, Italy | Italy holidays

The ancient settlement of Chiavenna, in Lombardy, near Italy’s border with Switzerland, was once well known among travellers. “Lovely Chiavenna … mountain peaks, huge boulders, with rippling miniature torrents and lovely young flowers … and grassy heights with rich Spanish chestnuts,” wrote George Eliot in 1860.

Eliot wasn’t the only writer to rhapsodise about this charming town. Edith Wharton described it as “fantastically picturesque … an exuberance of rococo”. For Mary Shelley it was “paradise … glowing in rich and sunny vegetation”, while Goethe described it as “like a dream”.

For those pioneering travellers, gentle, sunlit Chiavenna marked their arrival in Italy, having crossed the Splügen Pass, one of the earliest transalpine routes connecting northern Europe to the south. Today, few tourists bother with Chiavenna, heading instead to the better-known Como that lies 60 miles (100km) to the south. They are missing a treat.

Intrigued by the praise once heaped upon this mysterious town, with a picture-perfect location at the foot of the snow-flecked Alps, I decided to spend a week here with my husband. Surrounded by thick chestnut woods and bisected by the crystal-clear River Mera, Valchiavenna (the town’s valley) holds numerous surprises too, from the area’s crotti (natural caves), to a B&B in the ornate villa once inhabited by the great 18th-century painter Angelica Kauffman. It also has dozens of magnificent hiking and cycling trails through a spectacular landscape of waterfalls, glacially sculpted rocks, mossy woodlands, ancient mule tracks and abandoned villages. With barely a tourist in sight.

I travelled from Zurich, taking a train to St Moritz, then a bus over the spectacular Maloja Pass, down 20 vertiginous hairpin bends (known as tornanti) carved from the rock face of the Alps, with sweeping views – lakes, peaks, forests – in all directions. This €20 one-hour bus ride also stops off at the Swiss village of Stampa (birthplace of the artist Alberto Giacometti and home of the Museo Ciäsa Granda, which is dedicated to him), as well as Sils Maria village, home of the Nietzsche-Haus, where Nietzsche spent seven formative summers in the late 19th century, and now a museum. Meanwhile, my husband travelled to Chiavenna by train from Milan, a journey that skirted the scenic shores of numerous lakes, including Lake Como.

The remote Rifugio Uschione. Photograph: Paolo Valentini

Our first day was spent hiking 6 miles upriver along the beautiful Via Bregaglia, a 24-mile hiking trail running from Soglio in Switzerland to Chiavenna, to reach one of the region’s best-known restaurants, the family-run, Michelin-starred Lanterna Verde. After feasting on trout caught minutes before from their own lake, we took the bus back to explore Chiavenna’s old centre, which dates from the 15th century (the medieval town was destroyed by fire). Described by an Italian friend as “like Verona but without the amphitheatre, crowds and chain stores”, the network of cobbled alleys containing ornate frescoed buildings and elaborate fountains is testament to its past as a wealthy trading town.

Chiavenna is home to dozens of crotti, natural cellars embedded in the rocky flanks of the surrounding mountains. Before the advent of refrigeration, the crotti were used for storing wine, cheese and cured meats, and often as places to socialise. Today several operate as restaurants and bars: at Crotto Ubiali and Crotto Ombra, we tucked into two of the town’s signature dishes: sciatt – melt-in-the-mouth buckwheat fritters stuffed with cheese – and gnocchi alla chiavennasca – bread-based dumplings served with melted butter and crispy fried sage. At Crotto Belvedere, we sipped local wine – try Opera, a delicious white from nearby vineyards, that arrives in a bottle labelled with the work of a local artist.

On our second day we explored the Parco delle Marmitte dei Giganti (“giants’ cauldrons”), which slopes up from the town’s eastern edge a mass of mineral-rich green stone (pietre verdi) natural craters, caused by glacial erosion over thousands of years. From here, hiking trails fan out, tantalisingly, in all directions. We took the 50-minute path to Uschione, an empty, roadless village of stone houses, a church and cemetery, perched high above the valley and wreathed in soft wisps of cloud. Four hundred people once lived here, but today the only inhabitants are long‑eared sheep and Mendi who runs the Rifugio Uschione (doubles from €160), a rustic yet stylish priest’s house where we spent an utterly silent night of perfect sleep. The next morning we took a mossy path upwards to explore abandoned forest crotti, before turning northwards to bask in panoramic views across the valley and up towards the soaring Rhaetian Alps.

Palazzo Vertemate Franchi in Piuro is the only building that survived a landslide in 1618. Photograph: AGF/Alamy

Back in Chiavenna, we headed to the Palazzo Salis B&B, once home to Angelica Kauffman. Here, a lavish frescoed room, complete with antique furniture, painted ceiling, chequered marble floor and breakfast on the terrace costs from €130. After stopping for cups of cappuccino and cioccolata calda (melted dark chocolate with a splash of thick cream) in Sierra Nevada, the town’s cutest roastery, we walked a mile north to Piuro for a tour of the most eye‑popping renaissance villa: Palazzo Vertemate Franchi. The sole surviving building from a 1618 landslide that destroyed the entire village and killed more than 1,000 inhabitants, the palazzo (advance booking and guided tours only) boasts exquisite marquetry, fantastical frescoes and elaborately carved panelling.

Giddy from all these unexpected delights, we strolled a further mile to the dramatic Acquafraggia waterfalls. This double waterfall tumbles 1,300 metres in a series of cascades, and was described by Leonardo da Vinci as “making a beautiful sound and a marvellous spectacle”. With our cheeks gently misted, we climbed the ancient mule path (2,867 stone steps) up to the abandoned village of Savogno, where old stone houses cling precipitously to the mountainside.

A day later, we drove up the 51 tightly twisting, hairpin bends to explore the Splügen Pass. This 40-minute journey climbs 1,780 metres and propelled us into an utterly different, much chillier landscape. We spent a contented night at the legendary coaching inn Albergo della Posta, (doubles from €130) in the tiny hamlet of Montespluga. Little has changed here in 75 years – the 10 bedrooms are cosily panelled in pine, and retain their original furnace stoves.

Leonardo da Vinci was among admirers of the Acquafraggia waterfall. Photograph: Aerial Vision/Alamy

With Shelley’s words about the pass in our heads – “naked and sublime … dim mists, chilling blasts and driving snow” – we walked a three-hour circular path to the Lago di Andossi, revelling in the landscape’s bleak austerity, with its eerily turquoise lakes, luminously green lichen and treeless, craggy peaks. This route also forms the beginning of the 20-mile Valchiavenna cycle path, which took third place in the Italian Green Way Cycle Road awards of 2022. Bike hire is available from Adam’s Bike Tours, and we vowed to return one day to cycle the route.

And then it was back to Chiavenna to investigate the Saturday market, sample its three gelaterias, explore the towering Parco Paradiso (a terraced botanical garden built on the site of the original castle), and to amble around the cloistered church of San Lorenzo, with its gloriously carved 12th-century font. We finished at Chiavenna’s high-security Museo del Tesoro or “treasure museum”, home to the extraordinary La Pace – a jaw-dropping, 11th-century bible cover with the finest goldsmithing and enamelling imaginable, encrusted with emeralds, rubies and pearls. It is yet another reminder of the important role Chiavenna once played in Europe’s history.

We ended our trip by pigging out on the locally inspired tasting menu – it was our wedding anniversary – at the family-run Villa Giade (which also has sleekly modern, reasonably priced bedrooms with the best views in town). Over glasses of wine from the local Nebbiolo grape, we pondered Chiavenna’s many hidden charms, before agreeing that this could be the most quietly romantic town we had ever visited.

For more information, visit valchiavenna.com

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UK’s top 25 ‘pub capitals’ ranked – see if your town has made the cut

The Mirror’s data team has crunched the numbers and found where in the country has the highest concentration of pubs – see if your hometown has made the cut in our rankings

The pub capital of the UK has been crowned, and it’s a beautiful part of the country with cosy inns and rolling hills.

It’s been a rough year for the pub trade. Many are facing increasingly tricky futures. A report by UK Hospitality has warned that six venues will close every day this year without support – a total of more than 2,000. That far outstrips the 378 that closed in 2025, according to the Institute for Licensing. The British Beer and Pub Association worries pubs will need to sell an extra 1.3 billion pints of beer a year to offset surging taxes.

However, as gloomy as the overall picture is, there are still thousands of incredible pubs across the country, and areas where the trade is, if not booming, then thriving in a relative sense.

The Mirror’s data team has crunched the numbers and found that the drinkers in the Derbyshire Dales are more well stocked with pubs than anywhere else in England and Wales. The rural council has a total of 152 pubs and bars within its borders, according to our analysis of government data.

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That works out as the equivalent of 25 for every 10,000 adults living there.

That’s the highest rate for any local authority in England and Wales, excluding two areas where extremely low population numbers skew the figures – the City of London (188 pubs and bars, equivalent to 132 per 10,000 adults) and the Isles of Scilly (six pubs, equivalent to 29 per 10,000).

Westminster has the next highest number of pubs relative to its drinking-age population. The London borough’s 407 boozers works out as 23 for every 10,000 resident adults.

Powys also has 23 per 10,000 adults with a total of 259 pubs.

That’s followed by Pembrokeshire with 21 per 10,000 adults, then four council areas with 18 pubs for every 10,000 adults – Westmorland and Furness, North Yorkshire, Gwynedd and Ceredigion.

You can see how many pubs there are for every 10,000 adults in each council area in the country by using our interactive map.

London councils fill the top 10 list of areas with the most pubs relative to their geographic size.The City of London’s 188 pubs and bars works out as the equivalent of 169 for every square mile (with the area famously known as “the Square Mile” being slightly larger than a square mile).

Westminster’s 407 pubs is equivalent to 49 every square mile. In Islington, there are 40 pubs every square mile, while in both Camden there are 29, in Hackney 22 and in both Kensington and Chelsea and Hammersmith and Fulham there are 20 every square mile.

Liverpool has the highest density of pubs outside of London. The city’s 502 boozers works out as nearly 12 for every square mile, the 11th highest ratio in England and Wales.

Manchester’s 432 pubs work out at nearly 10 per square mile. Portsmouth’s 139 pubs are nine per square mile, Blackpool’s 114 pubs are also nine per square mile, Norwich’s 127 are eight per square mile, as are Brighton’s 244 pubs and Bristol’s 321.

Wales and England’s 25 pub capitals

  1. Derbyshire Dales
  2. Westminster
  3. Powys
  4. Pembrokeshire
  5. North Yorkshire
  6. Westmorland and Furness
  7. Gwynedd
  8. Ceredigion
  9. Carmarthenshire
  10. Staffordshire Moorlands
  11. South Hams
  12. Denbighshire
  13. Monmouthshire
  14. North Devon
  15. Cotswold
  16. East Lindsey
  17. West Devon
  18. High Peak
  19. Malvern Hills
  20. Herefordshire, County of
  21. Shropshire
  22. Isle of Anglesey
  23. Calderdale
  24. Great Yarmouth
  25. Amber Valley

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Ancient woodland filled with waterfalls, grottos and hidden ruins

The 120-acre National Trust site near Masham features 18th-century grottos, waterfalls and ruins hidden within ancient woodland on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales

In North Yorkshire, near the market town of Masham, lies an expansive woodland haven brimming with hidden gems that stretch back to the 18th century.

Hackfall Woods stands as a magnificent 120-acre expanse of ancient forest, attracting visitors with its enchanting atmosphere and stunning views. The Woodland Trust-owned site holds grade 1 listed status, owing to its 18th-century remnants and historic garden features.

Perched on the fringe of the picturesque Yorkshire Dales, Hackfall nestles within a dramatic and rugged gorge carved by the River Ure.

Following years of neglect and deterioration, the woodland has been carefully restored to its original splendour, now welcoming keen walkers and explorers across Yorkshire.

History

Whilst today Hackfall appears as an untouched wilderness, it was actually carefully crafted to achieve this wild aesthetic by a renowned landscaper in 1731.

John Aislabie bought the estate and, working with his son, reimagined it as a seemingly natural landscape dotted with decorative features for visitors to admire.

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The design was cleverly conceived to showcase the pre-existing panoramas and natural characteristics, amplifying the area’s inherent beauty.

Yet following their considerable efforts, Hackfall endured decades of abandonment and disrepair, before being purchased in 1932 by an owner who stripped the site of its trees. The structures had fallen into disrepair, and flooding had worn away the once-stunning water features.

In 1989, the Woodland Trust stepped in to save the site, securing it on a lease of nearly 1,000 years, with support from organisations including the Hackfall Trust and English Heritage.

Since that time, this magnificent woodland has been formally designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, alongside recognition as ancient semi-natural woodland.

It continues to attract visitors from throughout the country, eager to witness the waterfalls, sculptures and historic ruins.

One visitor recounted their experience on TripAdvisor, writing: “Hackfall is a beautiful and peaceful woodland brimming with nature, trees, plants, birds, wildlife, streams, ponds, castle ruins, great views on a hillside alongside the River Ure. It’s a super place for peace and quiet, for individuals, for families, suitable for all ages to explore and get away from it all.”

Wildlife

Nature enthusiasts are guaranteed a memorable experience at Hackfall, renowned for the remarkable diversity of species that inhabit the area.

From bird life to flora and insects, the woodland is bursting with biodiversity, and countless sightings have been documented here, particularly by dedicated birdwatchers.

The website showcases an extensive array of creatures visitors might encounter, from kingfishers to dippers, grey wagtails and woodpeckers. Guests can also anticipate spotting stoats, foxes, badgers, butterflies and little lemon slugs.

Access

Given the challenging landscape, featuring numerous steep footpaths, Hackfall is only suitable for those confident navigating steps and inclines, as wheelchair access isn’t available.

The woodland offers up to four entry points, with the two most frequented located at the top of the site and featuring the steepest routes.

To access these, you’ll need to start from the minor road linking Grewelthorpe to Masham. The entrance has no barriers, and as you follow the trail, you’ll quickly discover it’s a gentle gradient with a handful of steps.

Free parking is available nearby at the Woodland Trust car park, situated roughly half a mile before Grewelthorpe Village. Some walkers alternatively opt to park in the village of Masham.

Bear in mind there are no toilet facilities within the woodlands themselves, with the closest public toilets located back in Masham. While this is typical for most woodland rambles, visitors will be delighted to learn that not only are they welcome, but their dogs are too.

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Ancient ‘supernatural’ stone fort with stunning views across five counties

The site is an ancient ring fort perched on a hilltop in County Donegal, offering panoramic views and steeped in Irish legends dating back centuries

The Inishowen peninsula isn’t merely the location of Ireland’s most northerly point, but also hosts one of the country’s most captivating monuments, perched atop a hill in Donegal.

The Grianán of Aileach attracts numerous visitors to Ireland, shrouded in mystery as the 6th or 7th century ring fort is steeped in folklore and legend.

Standing majestically on an 800-foot hilltop, the monument historically served as the Royal residence of the Northern Uí Néill, a dynasty descended from a legendary Irish monarch.

Constructed from robust, thick dry-stone walls, it provides breathtaking panoramic views. While much of the structure underwent restoration in 1870, it’s believed to have been initially built during the 6th-7th century, with the earthworks themselves tracing back to 1700 BC.

Legends

Research indicates the fort may have been originally built before AD 800 by an ancient Irish king, Áed Oirdnide, king of Cenél nÉogain. He governed what would have been a modest kingdom situated within the Inishowen peninsula.

From this imposing hilltop, he would have commanded views across his own lands whilst simultaneously surveying the new Donegal territories now under his control. Essentially, the structure functioned as a political declaration and a means to assert additional authority.

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Another tale traces the fort’s origins back to the era of the Tuatha de Danann, a mythical race said to possess supernatural powers, also referred to as the Fae Folk. The Dagda, one of the revered and divine chieftains of the Tuatha, shares a particular link with this ancient location.

Legend has it that following the death of his son Aodh, the Dagda built a stone fortress to serve as both burial place and memorial. The Metrical Dindshenchas, an ancient Irish manuscript, is thought to explain the site’s name, lending credence to this tale.

The Setting

From the fort, there are sweeping views across both Lough Foyle and Lough Swilly, and locals claim that on particularly clear days, you can glimpse up to five of Ulster’s nine counties.

One impressed guest said: “This ring fort was the most impressive one I’ve ever seen. The views from here highlight why it would have been constructed in this location. They are beautiful. The structure is in very good condition. I stood in the middle and just turned around to appreciate this site.”

Whilst the panoramas from the modest peak are stunning, perched at 250 metres above sea level, there’s virtually nothing surrounding it apart from unspoilt countryside. The only nearby facility is the visitors’ car park, making for a straightforward stroll to the main attraction.

Another visitor said: “This is a beautiful landmark and well worth a visit. Thankfully, the monument is now open, and we were able to go early in the evening. They also have a wishing well that our kids were able to throw money into. Well worth a visit.”

Local attractions

If you fancy a pit stop during or after your journey, the liveliest spot in the vicinity is Londonderry. Located just a 15-minute drive from The Grianán of Aileach, it boasts numerous restaurants, pubs and cafes where you can grab some food.

Alternatively, if you’re enjoying the countryside and prefer somewhere more off the beaten track for refreshments, venture towards Newtown Cunningham. Here you’ll discover several eateries, including Scarpello and Co, Coyles Bar and Restaurant and Kate’s Kitchen.

Should you wish to continue your adventure, just an eight-minute drive from the monument will take you to Inch Wildfowl Reserve along the coast. This stunning location features a magnificent 8 km wilderness walk and hosts an impressive array of wildfowl and geese.

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‘I’m a Cotswolds local and these are 5 places to go for a pub lunch’

A Cotswolds local has shared her five favourite spots to go for a bite to eat when you’ve completed your long country walk and need something hearty and delicious

Who can resist a hearty pub lunch after a refreshing walk, soaking up the stunning natural beauty around them? It’s simply an unbeatable experience.

It feels like a well-earned treat, and there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction that comes after a good bout of exercise. That’s why a local woman from the Cotswolds has shared her top picks for a pub lunch if you’re visiting the area, but she warns that you “must” book in advance to avoid disappointment. Ali listed five of her favourite local eateries, all of which sound absolutely delightful and are worth checking out sooner rather than later.

1. The Kingham Plough, Kingham

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Ali enthused: “My all-time favourite pub in the Cotswolds. Incredible roasts, consistently great food, faultless service and one of the prettiest villages around.”

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “We had a lovely dinner with family and friends. The food, especially the more sophisticated dishes, was very good, the ambience pleasant, and the service enjoyable.”

2. The Lamb, Shipton-under-Wychwood

“Outstanding food and such good value evenings (think chicken night, curry night, etc). They also own a few other brilliant Cotswolds pubs that are just as good,” Ali noted.

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “Roast Chicken – best I’ve ever had (obviously apart from my wife’s and mother’s). It’s really very exceptional. I would go as far as saying I would travel to the Lamb just to eat the roast chicken. Fabulous deal on Thursdays – an entire roast chicken plus trimmings for £30.”

3. The Fox at Oddington, Oddington

Ali praised it, writing: “A Daylesford-owned pub and a local favourite – especially on Thursday nights. Amazing pizza, beautiful interiors and a great atmosphere.”

One glowing Tripadvisor review gushed: “Wow! What a pub… the vibes are on point as soon as you walk in the door. We went on a busy Friday evening without a booking, and after having a drink in the bar, we were seated at a table by James, who was an outstanding host!”

“The food was absolutely superb, we had steak tartare, and the nduja scotch egg for starters, both amazing, then had the Fox double burger and beef bourguignon.

“Hands down the best burger I have ever tasted, and the beef was amazing, both were generous portions, great value for money. The service was great the whole time. Shout out to James, who was great to chat with and looked after us!”

4. The Bull, Charlbury

Ali described it as: “Recently named one of the best pubs in the UK. The menu might look a little intimidating, but trust me – the food is fantastic. Pie night every Thursday.”

One Tripadvisor reviewer shared: “We had a great lunch at The Bull! It is somewhat full of Londoners in rust-coloured corduroy, but that didn’t spoil what was a lovely lunch!”

“You do need to book as it’s extremely popular. Be prepared that it is incredibly dark with only candles for lighting, but all in all, we had a lovely meal – the plates are small, but deceivingly filling! The staff are really nice, and the atmosphere is cosy, lighthearted and easy.

“One word of caution – if you order a Bloody Mary, it may blow your head off!”

5. The Chequers, Churchill

Ali said: “Clarkson’s local and currently undergoing a refurbishment. Reopening mid-March in a stunning village location – one to watch for great food and atmosphere.”

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “We had a lovely meal at The Chequers. The food was genuinely excellent – fresh, well-cooked, and full of flavour, with a great menu choice. What really stood out, though, was the staff. They were incredibly attentive without being overbearing, friendly, and made us feel very welcome throughout our visit.

“Everything came out promptly, and nothing was too much trouble. It’s clear they really care about the quality of both the food and the customer experience. We’ll definitely be returning and would happily recommend The Chequers to others.”

Which pub would you fancy visiting if you found yourself in the Cotswolds? Share your thoughts in the comments below…

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‘I’m a Cotswolds local and these are 5 places to go for a pub lunch’

A Cotswolds local has shared her five favourite spots to go for a bite to eat when you’ve completed your long country walk and need something hearty and delicious

Who can resist a hearty pub lunch after a refreshing walk, soaking up the stunning natural beauty around them? It’s simply an unbeatable experience.

It feels like a well-earned treat, and there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction that comes after a good bout of exercise. That’s why a local woman from the Cotswolds has shared her top picks for a pub lunch if you’re visiting the area, but she warns that you “must” book in advance to avoid disappointment. Ali listed five of her favourite local eateries, all of which sound absolutely delightful and are worth checking out sooner rather than later.

1. The Kingham Plough, Kingham

Content cannot be displayed without consent

Ali enthused: “My all-time favourite pub in the Cotswolds. Incredible roasts, consistently great food, faultless service and one of the prettiest villages around.”

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “We had a lovely dinner with family and friends. The food, especially the more sophisticated dishes, was very good, the ambience pleasant, and the service enjoyable.”

2. The Lamb, Shipton-under-Wychwood

“Outstanding food and such good value evenings (think chicken night, curry night, etc). They also own a few other brilliant Cotswolds pubs that are just as good,” Ali noted.

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “Roast Chicken – best I’ve ever had (obviously apart from my wife’s and mother’s). It’s really very exceptional. I would go as far as saying I would travel to the Lamb just to eat the roast chicken. Fabulous deal on Thursdays – an entire roast chicken plus trimmings for £30.”

3. The Fox at Oddington, Oddington

Ali praised it, writing: “A Daylesford-owned pub and a local favourite – especially on Thursday nights. Amazing pizza, beautiful interiors and a great atmosphere.”

One glowing Tripadvisor review gushed: “Wow! What a pub… the vibes are on point as soon as you walk in the door. We went on a busy Friday evening without a booking, and after having a drink in the bar, we were seated at a table by James, who was an outstanding host!”

“The food was absolutely superb, we had steak tartare, and the nduja scotch egg for starters, both amazing, then had the Fox double burger and beef bourguignon.

“Hands down the best burger I have ever tasted, and the beef was amazing, both were generous portions, great value for money. The service was great the whole time. Shout out to James, who was great to chat with and looked after us!”

4. The Bull, Charlbury

Ali described it as: “Recently named one of the best pubs in the UK. The menu might look a little intimidating, but trust me – the food is fantastic. Pie night every Thursday.”

One Tripadvisor reviewer shared: “We had a great lunch at The Bull! It is somewhat full of Londoners in rust-coloured corduroy, but that didn’t spoil what was a lovely lunch!”

“You do need to book as it’s extremely popular. Be prepared that it is incredibly dark with only candles for lighting, but all in all, we had a lovely meal – the plates are small, but deceivingly filling! The staff are really nice, and the atmosphere is cosy, lighthearted and easy.

“One word of caution – if you order a Bloody Mary, it may blow your head off!”

5. The Chequers, Churchill

Ali said: “Clarkson’s local and currently undergoing a refurbishment. Reopening mid-March in a stunning village location – one to watch for great food and atmosphere.”

A recent Tripadvisor review reads: “We had a lovely meal at The Chequers. The food was genuinely excellent – fresh, well-cooked, and full of flavour, with a great menu choice. What really stood out, though, was the staff. They were incredibly attentive without being overbearing, friendly, and made us feel very welcome throughout our visit.

“Everything came out promptly, and nothing was too much trouble. It’s clear they really care about the quality of both the food and the customer experience. We’ll definitely be returning and would happily recommend The Chequers to others.”

Which pub would you fancy visiting if you found yourself in the Cotswolds? Share your thoughts in the comments below…

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Major UK travel fee change effective from next week – are you affected?

Most UK visitors will need a key document to enter the UK, but this will depend on your nationality and reasons for travel

Travellers regularly encounter changes in regulations when navigating international borders. Now London Heathrow Airport has issued a reminder regarding new rules coming into force in days

Under the changes an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA), will be a legal requirement for certain people from this month. This £16 fee allows travellers to enter the UK for tourism, family visits, and other purposes for up to six months.

On X, formerly Twitter, the major airport said this week: “Starting 25 February, whether your final destination is the UK or you are connecting via Heathrow, eligible visitors will need an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Find out more on http://GOV.UK.”

While most UK visitors will need an ETA or visa to enter the UK, this will depend on your nationality and reason for travel. For instance, an ETA is generally required if you’re coming from Europe, the USA, Australia, Canada and certain other countries.

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Each person travelling is required to have an ETA, including babies and children. So, for a family of four, you’ll likely need to pay £64 in total, while a family of six will typically pay £96. Visitors can apply for an ETA on behalf of other people.

Anyone who has a British or Irish passport, or has permission to work, live or study in the UK, will not need an ETA. According to official Government advice, other exemptions include:

It’s important to remember that having an ETA does not guarantee entry to the UK. Those with a criminal record or who have previously been denied entry should consider applying for a Standard Visitor visa instead.

Beyond this, the UK Government highlights exactly what can and can’t be done with an ETA. For instance, the ETA allows:

Meanwhile, these five things are not permitted with an ETA:

  • Staying in the UK for longer than six months
  • Doing paid or unpaid work for a UK company or as a self-employed person, unless you’re doing a permitted paid engagement or event or work on the Creative Worker visa concession
  • Claiming public funds (benefits)
  • Living in the UK through frequent or successive visits
  • Marrying or registering a civil partnership, or giving notice of marriage or civil partnership – a Marriage Visitor visa is needed

Visitors can apply for the £16 ETA online or via the UK ETA app. To do so, they must have a passport, an email address, and a payment method, including Apple Pay and Google Pay. The payment is non-refundable once an application has been made.

For more information, head to GOV.UK here.

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UK’s cheapest city for pints at £3.60 is nestled in beautiful countryside

Tbut there are still some places where you can get a drink for less than £5.

The cost of a pint continues to creep upwards. Tracking down a boozer flogging pints for under a fiver has become nearly impossible, yet certain spots still won’t leave your wallet crying.

A report from takepayments has uncovered which UK cities offer the most wallet-friendly drinking experience. The research examined 34 major UK cities against 16 affordability measures, encompassing housing, transport, wages, and discretionary spending (such as the cost of a pint).

Each location received a score out of 10 for overall affordability, identifying where Brits can enjoy the cheapest tipple.

Derby emerged as the nation’s most affordable city for a beverage, with pints priced at a mere £3.60. That’s a bargain when you fancy unwinding after a day discovering what the city has to offer – and there’s loads to see.

Situated in the East Midlands within Derbyshire and hugging the River Derwent, Derby serves as an ideal starting point for venturing into the picturesque British countryside, boasting numerous walking routes and cycling trails, reports the Express.

Among the finest is the Vicar Wood & Mackworth loop accessible from Markeaton Park. This 6.1km ramble takes roughly 90 minutes, beginning at the Mundy Playcentre car park.

Winding through farmland and parks, it’s ideal for families. There’s also Calke Abbey – a dilapidated stately home boasting sprawling gardens and a remarkable natural history collection.

Originally an Augustinian Priory, the property was acquired by Sir Henry Harpur in 1622. The estate remained in the family for generations, and from 1924 onwards, Calke was left largely untouched, though it underwent gradual modernisation.

Today, the National Trust has preserved the house much as it was, offering a fascinating glimpse into life from a bygone era.

After exploring the residence and grounds, visitors can stop by the on-site cafe and gift shop – ideal for picking up mementos.

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UK’s most overcrowded spot is gorgeous but you need to do this to dodge the crowds

Fiona Whitty soaked in the beauty of one of the UK’s most breathtaking spots and found a novel way to get away from the hubbub for a little while

With a speed limit on the lake of 10mph this was never going to be a fast and furious boat ride.

But our slow and steady jaunt across Windermere was the perfect escape from the frenetic Lake District crowds back on the shoreline. Sauntering along at just two miles an hour in our dainty self-drive electric motorboat, fish leaping from the water next to us and dragonflies buzzing overhead suited us down to the ground.

Being electric, the boat was quiet and environmentally friendly. And thanks to the 10mph speed limit we didn’t have to worry about dodging water skiers and jet bikes – just the large pleasure cruises which bizarrely seemed to approach out of nowhere.

Our most stressful decision was whether to roll back to soft top or wait until the grey clouds above had dispersed. We chose to throw caution to the wind and throw it back regardless.

Author avatarMilo Boyd

I didn’t regret it one bit. The best way to avoid the tourist throng mooching around Windermere is definitely to get out on the water instead. Since lockdown, the iconic Lake District town has been struggling with visitor numbers. According to Visit Britain, the Lake Windermere cruises that leave from Bowness were the eighth most popular paid tourist attraction in England last year. In 2022, they attracted more visitors than Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, and St Paul’s Cathedral.

One of the best ways to slip the crowds, I discovered, is to jump behind the wheel and motor off yourself.

We’d picked up the boat from Windermere Lake Cruises’ Bowness Dock hire point and been advised that in our hour slot, we’d be able to motor around a mile up the water and back. The route took us past Windermere’s largest island Belle Isle, acres of woodland filled with oak, sycamore, beech and birch, grandiose fells with tops hidden in the clouds and beauty spots like Queen Adelaide’s Hill, famed for its views.

As backdrops go, it was as idyllic as they come. (£46 for two adults, each extra adult £8). Afterwards, we parked up in Windermere village and wandered through Elleray Wood – one of the forests we’d spotted from the boat – and up to Orrest Head, a 239 metre-high hill with a delightful outlook rippling out over the lake and the fells beyond.

Ardent walker and author Alfred Wainwright hiked up to this very spot as a young man and the views he took in sparked his obsession with the Lake District, leading to his famous Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells series. It was easy to see why.

With a hefty fill of peace, quiet and serenity under our belts we later headed to the adventure mecca of Zip World Windermere further up the eastern shore of the lake.

After doing a pretty good job of introducing high-octane fun to Snowdonia Zip World have since expanded into other UK venues too, like this one. But the remit remains the same – to thrill, excite and terrify. There are several activities at The Windermere site but my partner Tim and I thoughtfully volunteered our son Freddie, 16, and family friend Rory to take part in the most hardcore – the full trek treetop adventure course.

The two-to-three-hour circuit involved a series of obstacles designed to challenge – and seemingly scare the pants off you.

Freddie and Rory navigated see-saw planks, tightrope-style shimmies, zip lines and wobbly bridges all at up to an eye-watering 15 metres off the ground.

The aerial skateboards, where they had to balance on a moving plank of wood and watch their feet skid a lot faster than the rest of their body (while being very high up of course), was certainly one of the most entertaining bits for us observers to see.

It was great fun – both for the doers and watchers. (from £39pp).

We were staying about 40 minutes from Windermere by car at another beautiful spot – Landal Twin Lakes, nestled discreetly in woods in Tewitfield near Carnforth, just over the Cumbria border in Lancashire.

One of Landal’s newest resorts, it was small, laid-back and smartly kept with a series of beautifully appointed lodges set around – you guessed it – a pair of twinkling lagoons.

Ours had three bedrooms, with a huge master one up on a cool mezzanine level. Two bedrooms had en-suites and there was a further family bathroom to boot. We certainly never needed to queue for the loo.

But it was the enormous double-height, open-plan living area that really stood out, with floor-to- ceiling windows and patio doors at the lake-end letting the outside in and providing us with a stunning vista.

The wine cooler and dishwasher in the smart fitted kitchen added to the touch of luxury. Decking at the front also allowed us to enjoy fresh air and sunshine by the calming water while a hot tub, carefully concealed from neighbours by a high hedge, gave us a warm respite during cooler moments.

I could imagine snuggling up in the bubbles during a winter stay, snowflakes fluttering overhead and a romantic smattering of white icing crowning the lake.

The fact there were no other facilities on site – no spa, restaurant, entertainment or communal areas – gave Landal Twin Lakes even more of a peaceful air.

All in all, the accommodation was top-notch – and the setting bliss. We felt a world away from all life’s hustle and bustle.

When we could drag ourselves out of the hot tub for long enough the wider area offered plenty of walks, pretty villages and wonderful views over hills and coast.

A hike up Warton Crag rewarded us with the opportunity to survey the vast Morecambe Bay, with its wide sweep of sandflats and stretches of salt marsh.

Keen to explore the landscape more, we later motored over to Arnside, a quaint seaside resort at the River Kent estuary. To take advantage of the sunshine, we bypassed inviting pubs and cafes and instead sat on the pier to tuck into fish and chips – while dodging hungry seagulls.

Then afterwards, we headed to the quiet village of Silverdale, where we ambled down the beach, clambering over rocks and skimming stones with the Lake District fells standing majestically in the background.

Away from the coast and just down the road from Landal Twin Lakes lies Greenlands Farm Village, which offered family fun from archery and quad biking to a very well-thought-out indoor crazy golf course.

The on-site shop sold lots of locally produced goodies like craft ale, cakes and spirits – plus fresh milk from a nearby farm that you pumped out yourself from a churn.

The Longlands Inn across the road was a comfy and friendly place for a much-needed breather and a very tasty pale ale called Fell Walker from the Bowness Bay Brewery. It was nearly as relaxing as a slow and steady jaunt on Windermere.

GET THERE

Landal Twin Lakes is just off junction 35 of the M6. You’ll need a car to get around.

BOOK IT

A three-night stay in a three-bedroom lodge at Landal Twin Lakes for up to six people costs from £719. See landal.co.uk

MORE INFO

visitlakedistrict.com, visitlancashire.com.

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Tiny UK market town packed with independent shops and huge indoor food market

This small but mighty market town was put back on the map after it reopened its huge food market, and is now a bustling community attracting thousands of visitors

A small market town underwent a major transformation and is now a thriving hub for food, shopping and picture-postcard vistas.

The market town of Altrincham, just 30 minutes from Manchester, offers a serene escape from the bustling city. In a vibrant scene, Altrincham is brimming with independent shops, a booming food scene and family-friendly attractions, among its strong community feel and picturesque landscapes.

However, Altrincham wasn’t always a thriving hub that attracted visitors near and far. Just over a decade ago, it was a much quieter town, known simply as a rural area outside Manchester, with closed-down shops and a high street that lacked appeal to visitors.

But after the town reopened Altrincham Market in 2014 with a contemporary, trendy twist, it revamped the area. The Altrincham Market & Market House became “the catalyst for change” in the area and is said to have revived “the modern market town” by offering a huge culinary scene from independent eateries.

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Altrincham has since welcomed thousands of visitors to its covered market, located in a stunning Grade II-listed building with steel beams and arched windows. Nestled in the heart of the town, the market has a spacious seating area where visitors can sample the delights from six kitchens and two bars while dining among friends.

Described as an “Independent foodie heaven”, there’s wood-fired pizza from Honest Crust, Tender Cow’s flat iron steak and chips, or delicious filling pies from Great North Pie Co. There’s also a selection of craft beers to enjoy at Jack in the Box, as well as beverages at Reserve Wines and Market House Coffee.

The food market is open Tuesday to Saturday, 9am to 10pm, and Sunday, 9am to 6pm. The market also offers a shopping area, with traders selling vintage fashion, homeware, artisan goods and crafts, which is open Friday 8am to 3pm, Saturday 8am to 4pm, and Sunday 10am to 4pm.

Offering an exceptional day out, one visitor shared on TripAdvisor: “Sitting down in the old market halls in Altrincham is an experience you don’t want to miss. Around the tables are several restaurants where you can order various types of food/drinks/desserts. Casual atmosphere, beautiful location, great food.”

“Absolutely fabulous. Such a choice of food, wine and the atmosphere is wonderful. Loved it. Definitely worth a visit. We will be back very soon,” a second shared. As a popular hotspot, one added: “Really like it here, loads of choice to eat, but sadly not many market stalls now. Mainly focused on food. Seating can be tough at peak times, but if you walk around the full site, there’s usually something available. There’s an app to order food, but it’s a bit rubbish, so I just go to the stall and order there.”

Among Altrincham’s landscapes are green spaces and parks, along with paths along the picturesque River Bollin. Just a short drive from the town centre, there’s also the National Trust Dunham Massey Hall & Gardens, set within sprawling grounds with a deer park and country manor that was temporarily used as the Stamford Military Hospital during World War I.

Elsewhere in Altrincham, there is a catalogue of high-street and independent shops, along with a number of eateries, from the Italian Damo’s, Papa Dutch for pancakes, tapas dishes from Porta and Nahm Prik for some delicious Thai. Plus, there are bars to catch up with friends, including Costello’s Bar and Cheshire Tap, with Kennedy’s Irish Bar proving popular for a night out.

For something a little cosier during a day out and to grab a hot drink, there’s Gran T’s Coffee House, Two Brothers Coffee, and Rise and Grind Cafe. Visitors certainly won’t go hungry during a trip to the charming town.

Altrincham is also home to a sprawling ice skating rink, Planet Ice, for a fun-packed day out, with public sessions available, and to the ice hockey team, Manchester Storm. The Altrincham Little Theatre and the Altrincham Garrick Theatre present stage productions, while Inch Arts offers workshops and various events, so there’s plenty to keep everyone entertained.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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The luxe Oxfordshire glamping site with a Scandi-inspired spa and nearby vineyard

THE PAD

If sleeping in a hut doesn’t sound very luxe, how about one with a Dyson hairdryer, Le Creuset crockery and a dishwasher?

Nestled on the verdant slopes of Stonor Park Estate, Quercus is a whimsical en-suite hideaway – one of two on the Drovers’ Hill site – and is both cosy and elevated.

Quercus is a whimsical en-suite hideawayCredit: Mark Lord Photography
Inside is a log burner and a four-poster bedCredit: Supplied
The Scandi-inspired Reset Wild Spa is just a short stroll away.Credit: Supplied

With shuttered windows, a log burner and four-poster bed, it’s perfect for the ultimate reset.

Wake up to misty views of elegant Stonor House and roaming herds of deer, before firing up the barbecue for an alfresco brekky.

Take the relaxation up a notch by booking the miniature, Scandi-inspired Reset Wild Spa, just a short stroll away.

Dashing between its scenic outdoor sauna and cold-plunge tubs takes willpower, but the endorphin rush is so worth it.

One-hour sessions cost £25 per person (Resetwildspa.co.uk).

EXPLORE

Stonor’s 12th-century manor house is still family owned and is practically in your back garden.

Ogle the lush tapestry and intricate walnut furniture, then take a stroll through the quaint walled garden.

Go to Oaken Grove Vineyard for a vine-growing masterclassCredit: Filmmakers of London

Entry costs £13 per person (Stonor.com).

Exploring is thirsty work, so head to nearby Oaken Grove Vineyard, for a vine-growing masterclass.

You’ll learn everything from planting to harvesting grapes with super- knowledgeable owner, Phil, and there’s plenty of wine to wash it all down with, including a citrusy sparkling pinot noir rosé.

A two-hour tour costs £25 per person (Oakengrovevineyard.co.uk).

If gin’s more your thing, book a tour and tasting at Henley Distillery – another family affair – to sip on locally made classic, spiced, pink and fruit versions, while watching the stills gurgle and boil.

A one-hour tour costs £20 per person (Thehenleydistillery.co.uk).

Picturesque Henley-on-Thames is just down the road – be sure to rummage in Duke Street’s Tudor House Antiques, an Aladdin’s cave stacked ceiling-high with quirky figurines, vases and road signs.

REFUEL

Beat the afternoon slump with velvety Milo & Malteser gelato, £4.45 a scoop, at Gelato Henley (Gelatohenley.co.uk), or tuck into a sticky, fluffy lardy cake, £4.95, at Warings Bakery (Waringsbakery.co.uk).

For the perfect lunch pitstop, head to The Cheese Shed at Nettlebed Creamery, 10 minutes’ drive from your hut.

Tuck into pie and gravy at The Bull and ButcherCredit: Supplied by Mia Lyndon

Order the legendary toastie with organic cheeses and butter made on-site, £6.95 – it has the perfect balance of ooze and crunch (Nettlebed creamery.com).

Nearby Turville, where The Vicar Of Dibley was filmed, is postcard-pretty with chocolate-box cottages and cosy village pub The Bull & Butcher.

Feast on crumbly shortcrust Welsh lamb and mint pie with creamy mash, £19.80, beside the crackling fire.

It pairs perfectly with a pint of local sweet but hoppy Brakspear Gravity ale, £4.90 (Thebullandbutcher.com).

BOOK IT

Stays at Drovers’ Hill at Stonor cost from £150 a night (Stonor.com/drovers-hill).

PACK IT

.Hand-warmers, £14, Rockett St George
Toiletries bag , from £34.95, Bombaby.co.uk
Glossier Black Cherry Balm Dotcom, £16

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