futuristic

AZERBAIJAN is nicknamed the Land of Fire and is a fascinating mix of Eastern and Western culture.

Antoinette Cumberbatch shares her account of discovering the country’s delicacies, hot weather, rich history, plus a party scene reminiscent of Miami.

Watching US rapper Busta Rhymes work the screaming crowd in the balmy 32ºC heat, I feel like I’m in Miami.

In fact, I’m actually dancing the night away beside the Caspian Sea at Azerbaijan’s lively Dream Fest, held each July.

It takes place 35 minutes’ drive from the enthralling capital, Baku, at Sea Breeze Resort on the golden coast, also home to a huge array of sports activities and buzzing beach clubs.

Fish Box serves up excellent sushi, from £13.50 a platter, and with my spacious one-bed pad at White Villas, I get a private garden. Villas sleeping two start from £110 a night (Seabreeze.az).

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Fire Starter

Hours earlier, I’d explored another side of Azerbaijan, which straddles Europe and Asia, discovering why it’s nicknamed the Land of Fire.

On the outskirts of Baku, the Ateshgah Fire Temple vividly brings this to life.

Here, history isn’t tucked behind glass – instead, fire flashes red-hot between ancient stones from an altar in the middle, and I duck through low doorways to learn how merchants stopped here while travelling along the Silk Road. Entry costs £6.50 (Ateshgahtemple.az).

Another eternal flame is Yanar Dagh, a hillside of natural gas where fire burns continuously at a scorching 1,000ºC.

I finish my fiery sightseeing with a visit to Baku’s Bar19 at Flame Towers, an imposing structure by day and a dazzling sight at night, serving up city views alongside Flame cocktails – a sweet mix of Bacardi, Passoã, amaretto and lime juice, £13 (Fairmont.com).

Come morning, I stroll along the city’s waterfront, Baku Boulevard, to take in more futuristic landmarks, such as Deniz Mall and indoor arena Crystal Hall, plus the world’s largest flying flag in State Flag Square.

Then I explore Icherisherer, the official name for the Old City and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000.

I wander the labyrinth of passageways, where cats sleep in doorways and locals sell goods including carpets and pillbox sheepskin hats, haggling to nab one of the latter for £12. In other corners, I find locals offering home-made Turkish delight and playing draughts.

A few minutes’ walk from Icherisherer and an array of designer shops, is Art Gallery Hotel, set in a grand Art Deco building with walls adorned with striking pieces.

Luxurious rooms feature quirky headboards, gold lamps and large showers, and stays start from £85 per night (Arthotelbaku.com).

Dumpling Day

Sitting among retro ornaments and mismatched furniture at restaurant Ryumochnaya By Beerbasha, I feast on delicious pasztet – a chicken pâté with jam – £2.20, and moreish chicken Kyiv, £5.65.

The most surprising but incredible dish is a sweet tomato salad with cherry sauce, £5.25 (@Ryumochnaya_beerbasha).

At the more traditional Novbahar, I fill up on dushbara – tiny dumplings in a savoury broth, £2.60 – gutab flatbread filled with pumpkin, £1.30, and succulent grilled beef saj, £17.50. The local pinot grigio pairs nicely, too (Novbahar.az).

As my trip draws to a close, I climb the 12th-century Maiden Tower – 28m high and one of Baku’s most recognisable landmarks – for the sea views.

Entry costs £6.50. But for vistas of the entire city, I find Highland Park unbeatable.

The funicular up to its beautiful gardens costs less than 50p and, as I soak up the panoramic view of Baku, it leaves me awestruck. Just like Azerbaijan itself.