I visited the family-friendly US state with theme parks that rival Florida
THINK family fun, adrenaline- seeking and a Stateside holiday – and Orlando is most likely to spring to mind.
But the Florida tourist favourite is now being given a run for its money by the Texan city of San Antonio.
Sure, there’s no destination with more theme parks than Orlando — which has ten to choose from, including big-ticket names Disney and Universal — but San Antonio’s four are unique.
And, best of all, they are significantly less hard on the wallet.
First stop on my theme park crawl of the city was Morgan’s Wonderland, the world’s first ultra-accessible theme park and a prime example of what makes San Antonio so special for this type of holiday.
The thinking behind the 25-acre park’s “inclusive” billing is that there are genuinely rides for everybody to enjoy — families can truly participate together and have fun with one another.
Then there’s SeaWorld which, while also plying its trade in Orlando, provides a much more immersive and educational experience in Texas — really shining at a time when many are questioning the ethics around zoos and aquariums.
On my visit, I was hugely impressed by the knowledge and passion that staff brought to our animal encounters, and by the lack of showiness around these — the sense was that we were there to observe, not that the marine life was there to perform.
Adrenaline seekers are not forgotten about in San Antonio, either.
They can get their kicks at Six Flags — a site of more than 200 acres with 11 roller- coasters and a waterpark.
The rides may not be as dramatic or heavily themed as those at Walt Disney World, but they will certainly impress even the biggest coaster buffs.
Meanwhile, those travelling with younger children can avoid the heaving tourist crowds that you will likely encounter on a holiday to Orlando.
But what also makes San Antonio a sure hit for parents, compared with Orlando, is that you can save mega-bucks on entry.
On average, you’re looking at spending around US$50-$100 per adult here, compared to US$99-$147 in Florida — a huge difference if paying for an entire family.
Theme parks aside, San Antonio is a marvel in itself, too.
It predates Orlando by around 150 years so has more of a story to tell, having played a significant part in The Texan Revolution.
You can learn all about this at the fabulous Alamo heritage site.
Visitors can view the preserved Catholic mission where the Battle of Alamo was fought in 1836, between a small number of plucky Texan defenders and the mighty Mexican army.
It’s rare to see anybody, let alone a proud US state, celebrate a fight they lost. But this two-week conflict, where the Texans ultimately met with defeat, has become synonymous with bravery and resistance.
Touring the historic site, which includes a chapel and barracks, I was struck by the overarching message that comes across: it’s not about winning but about trying. And at $48 entry for a family of four, it’s great value for money.
San Antonio also has an impressive zoo, in Brackenridge Park — but if your holiday aim is to do things you’d not easily be able to do back home, then take a short stroll through the park to the Witte Museum.
It is somewhat akin to London’s Natural History Museum in terms of being brilliantly kid-friendly.
It’s also fascinating — to the extent that little ones will barely even clock how much local and historical knowledge they’re soaking up.
Naturally, the Dinosaur Hall is a draw, but the Texas Wild Gallery and McNay Family Global Gallery are each special.
Wildlife habitats in the former, and tales of how locals lived in ancient times in the latter, combine in a way that’s compelling for visitors both young and old.
Do note, however, that some attractions in San Antonio are closed in winter, or operate on a limited schedule. Six Flags, for instance, opens only on weekends.
In summer, meanwhile, beware the heat — which can near 40C. But there is welcome air-con at museums such as the Witte, and the very child-friendly DoSeum — a hands-on, learn-through-play space.
Outdoors, the San Antonio Botanic Garden has a water-play feature, and boat rides along the San Antonio river are shady and cool, plus a load of fun for families.
San Antonio serves up great food, too. While “family friendly” can mean highly processed hot dogs and chicken nuggets, it’s a different story here — where barbecue, Tex Mex dishes and celebratory decor make for fun and flavourful dining.
In particular, do eat at local institution Mi Tierra, which is festooned with colourful paper banners and wandered through by traditional Mexican mariachi musicians.
The Tejas Rodeo is unmissable, too, bringing people of all ages together for an evening of bull and horse riding, as well as barrel racing, against a backdrop of Western music and steakhouse aromas.
Even littlies get in on the action, with “mutton bustin’” — trying to stay on the back of a bucking sheep.
You’re not likely to find that in Orlando.
GO: SAN ANTONIO
GETTING THERE: Virgin Atlantic flies from Heathrow to San Antonio via Atlanta from £944 each way. See virginatlantic.com.
STAYING THERE: An eight-day holiday combining San Antonio with a two-night ranch stay starts from £1,750pp, including private transfer on arrival, car hire, excursions, a San Antonio City Pass, accommodation based on two sharing and full board meals at the ranch.
See journeyscape.com or call 0203 733 4413.
For more info, see visitsanantonio.com.
