drink

Copenhagen on a plate: eat and drink your way around with our expert picks | Restaurants

Bakeries

It has to be Københavns Bageri; they upgrade beloved Danish classics using the best ingredients. The cardamom buns are second to none, but the “potato cake” – that’s a choux bun filled with vanilla custard and topped with a cocoa-dusted marzipan disc to resemble a potato – might be my favourite. MF

For bread, go to Tír Bakery in the morning and stand in line – they sell out every day, but their bread is the best. For croissants, go to Bageriet B and sit outside and enjoy a good filter coffee. TH

Tempting pastries at Juno the Bakery. Photograph: Juno the Bakery

Hands down, Juno the Bakery. Founded by pastry chef Emil Glaser, the space was designed so you can see the bakers at work. What makes it special is the level of technique and consistency; they’re known for their cardamom buns, which are buttery, fragrant … perfect, and their sourdough and croissants are flawless. I usually order a cardamom bun, perhaps a pistachio croissant (if it’s available), and a sourdough roll with comté. Then I sit with a coffee and watch the production. KB

My go-to right now is Albatross & Venner in Torvehallerne. We have our original taqueria nearby, so I love walking over to grab a quick pastry – usually the spandauer – before work. I love that they’re baking every day in this tiny space, serving pastries that are often still warm from the oven. Insider tip: they sell fresh baguettes, which is rare in the city. RS

Coffee

Det Vide Hus on Gothersgade, Copenhagen. Photograph: Boaz Rottem/Alamy

Det Vide Hus in the heart of Copenhagen is a hidden gemmuch loved by locals, and it’s a favourite breakfast spot among Copenhagen chefs. Everything from seasonal pastries to the decadent ice-cream bars are made in house. MF

I am a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to coffee; I never understood why filter coffee became a pour-over, so I go to one of Original Coffee’s places and order traditional beans. For an independent place, go to Enghave Kaffe for some Danish hygge – the coffee is really good, as is the BMO (bun with cheese and butter). TH

Copenhagen is incredibly lucky when it comes to coffee. If I’m near Sanchez restaurant, I’ll go to Prolog Coffee Bar in the Meatpacking District because the coffee is always excellent, the team are lovely, and the atmosphere feels relaxed but focused. If I’m looking to sit and have a pour-over moment, I love April Coffee. RS

Breakfast

Classic … coffee and pastry at Andersen & Maillard. Photograph: PR Image/Andersen & Maillard

Apotek 57, located inside the Frama store, is one of the prettiest eateries in Copenhagen. Chef-owner Chiara’s Italian roots are at the heart of her food, with an emphasis on seasonal vegetables, fragrant herbs and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Try the porridge with apple, thyme and Piedmont hazelnuts. MF

Cycle to Nordhavn and start at Andersen & Maillard. Get a BMO, coffee and pastry – a classic Danish breakfast – then cycle to nearby Skudehavnen, where you’ll find small fishing huts, boatsheds and a harbour. It’s a pocket from the past; find a tranquil spot at one of the piers, have your breakfast and dip your toes in the water. TH

Atelier September is an effortless meeting point between design, creativity and good food. I love the breakfast selection: eggs, avocado, vegetarian dishes – all delicious. There’s an energy; you feel connected to the city’s cultural pulse simply by sitting there. KB

I don’t typically go out for breakfast, but if I do, I love Amator, where they specialise in omelettes served with slices of bread and wonderful sides. The menu is small, but they’re dedicated to making everything the best it can be, which I always appreciate. Get the omelette with chilli, and always end with a lemon tart. RS

Cheap eats

Relaxed and with genuinely good food … Slurp. Photograph: Tim Lusher

There are so many great choices, but nothing beats soaking up the sun with a wedge of Diamond Slice pizza and a glass of wine. Even pineapple haters succumb to the Canadiana with fermented pineapple, ham and pickled jalapeños. MF

It’s hard to decide what I love most, books or food, but it is heaven when they go together. Brøg Litteraturbar has a great selection of both Danish and English titles, and a nice small cafe where they do an excellent lunch for a fair price. I get the tart or soup of the day, and this is hygge and full of love. TH

One of my favourite spots for a laid-back weekday meal is Slurp. Its ramen is exactly the kind of comfort I crave when I don’t feel like cooking: pure flavour and thoughtful but unfussy toppings. I’d recommend the house pork bone broth with chashu, spring onions and a soft‑boiled egg, or go for the miso‑based bowl for something a little lighter. It’s the sort of place I’d take my family for something quick and easy – relaxed and with genuinely good food. KB

I highly recommend Poulette and their spicy fried chicken sandwich. They’ve been around for some years now and are always consistent: very tasty, deeply comforting, and extremely filling and affordable. The sandwiches are made with their own spicy blend, the chicken is marinated in-house, and the crust somehow stays crisp. I also love that there’s nothing quite like it in Copenhagen. To elevate things beyond a quick meal, grab a glass of wine next door at Pompette and enjoy it outside. RS

Splurge meals

When I feel like spoiling myself, one of the best places is the newly renovated Krogs Fiskerestaurant overlooking the canals at the old fish market. It uses classic French techniques with the best local seafood and seasonal produce to make the most delicious food. The menu changes often but if you see anything with beurre blanc and four types of roe, choose that! MF

A local classic … Rhubarb and seaweed at Krogs Fiskerestaurant. Photograph: PR Image/Krogs Fiskerestaurant

Mikkel Mårbjerg is one of a few chefs that represent modern Danish cooking – they call VIE in Nordhavn a modern inn. He gets his produce from his daughter’s regenerative farm, and you feel his love of vegetables. They cook cabbage like only a few do, served with langostino and bisque, and their potato bread with löjrom and creme fraiche is a must. If sandart (a local freshwater fish) is in season, please try it, and then finish with the almond cake and ice-cream – it’s divine. TH

For fine dining, it has to be Geranium. There’s a clarity and precision in every dish that’s hard to find elsewhere. Located on the eighth floor of Parken Stadium, overlooking Fælledparken, it holds three Michelin stars and is an experience from start to finish. The concept centres on a plant‑forward tasting menu, and the attention to detail is extraordinary. The pacing, the wine pairings, the service – everything is perfectly in sync. The bread course, with whipped butter and seasonal oils, and its signature raw scallop dish, have stayed with me. KB

I would definitely go to Akmē; it’s not necessarily three-star Michelin expensive, but it feels like a splurge (in the best way). I love that you simply go with the menu and let the team cook – there’s a real sense of trust in the experience. The food feels creative, and the hospitality is warm and genuine. Lately, it has become one of my favourite places for a special occasion, or even just to go to feel inspired. RS

The Meatpacking District

Exquisite … Kødbyens Fiskebar, Copenhagen. Photograph: PR Image/Kødbyens Fiskebar

One of the best dinner spots in “the meat town” is fishy. Kødbyens Fiskebar, which sits under a fresco of a bull at the entrance to the old meat market, serves incredibly pretty dishes in this buzzy but unpolished food quarter: brill with a deep blush of rhubarb, topped with samphire and chive blossoms; bright orange roe crowned with scarlet nasturtium petals, to heap on a seaweed waffle; prawns in a buttermilk sauce marbled with emerald herb oil. It all looks exquisite and it’s not a hearty menu, although you could go for, say, the mussels steamed in a cream-laden cider.

Dolly Parton once said: “It takes a lot of time and money to look this cheap.” The nearby Superbon has only been around a few years but has the vibe of a generations-old family business, with its seemingly random but carefully curated 1970s velvet-and-chrome decor and 80s video games arcade on the way to the bathroom. The menu is Asian, delicious and affordable by Copenhagen standards – pork gyoza, soft-shell crab, lychee salad, bao with hoisin duck and pickled daikon, huge chicken leg with green sambal. Afterwards, go for an ice-cream at Ismagieret – the menu changes but you might try the amarena cherry or the marzipan with pistachio ganache. Young visitors could end their evening in one of the packed bars but you could also start your day with a cheese roll or a cardamom croissant at Hart Bageri, one of the bakery’s eight branches in the city. Opposite is Prolog Coffee, which has a range of speciality beans from Peru, Colombia and Kenya, and a small selection of Juno pastries, saving you from the social influenza of the queue at their Østerbro shop. TL

Cocktails

There are many great cocktail bars in Copenhagen, but none like Geoffrey Canilao’s crazy, cosy bar, Balderdash. The motto is: “Keep it hygge.” The Blonde Ambition with gin, elderflower, cardamom and bergamot is a forever favourite. MF

K-bar was one of the first places to take cocktails seriously in Copenhagen, and I’ve been coming here since it opened. I like to go there early for a classic negroni – there’s beautiful outside seating in the summer with a view to the old town. For a wine bar, I like Ancestrale, which is organic certified. I go here for a glass of red wine and cheese with hazelnuts and brown butter – one of its classics. TH

Minimalist aesthetic … Tadaima apartment store. Photograph: PR image/Tadaima

I go to Tadaima to dream as much as I do to buy pieces for my ever-growing collection of kitchenware. From porcelain egg cups to sculptural shelving systems, everything is carefully curated with a Japanese/Scandinavian minimalist aesthetic. It also has pieces from one of my favourite craftsmen/artists, the Danish glass blower Nina Nørgaard. MF

The best kitchen shop I know is Kunst og Køkkentøj in the centre of Copenhagen. Competent staff, a great cookbook selection, a specially made baking tin for rye bread, knives, baking equipment, and the best large tweezer I know. They wrap everything in brown paper, and you feel special when you leave the shop. TH

I like to visit Frama for homeware; I’m really drawn to the balance between warmth and simplicity in its designs. And I especially appreciate a lot of its soaps and scents. Frama is also associated with a number of restaurants and cafes that they have designed, so it’s always interesting to see how they curate spaces and atmospheres that feel calm and lived in. RS



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Best places to eat and drink in Hong Kong

A fine place to stop for a milk tea-centered breakfast or lunch after exploring the labyrinth of African, Indian and other international shops and food stalls inside Chungking Mansions — one of the last remaining film locations in Wong Kar-wai’s iconic “Chungking Express,” where Brigitte Lin’s drug-dealing retired actor is seen conducting her business in a blond wig, trenchcoat and sunglasses. Lan Fong Yuen, in the basement of Heath Mall (which is technically part of Chungking Mansions but has a separate street entrance), has its own historic pedigree. Late founder Lam Muk-ho is credited with originating silk-stocking milk tea (it’s strained through a long cloth filter), and possibly yuenyeung (milk tea mixed with coffee), at the still-operating Gage Street stall he opened in Central in 1952. He’s also said to have popularized the thick-cut Hong Kong-style French toast and pork-chop buns so familiar in our own San Gabriel Valley cafes, as well as “lo-ding” instant noodle dishes, especially the chicken-chop version. The Tsim Sha Tsui location opened in 2009 but has an older diner aesthetic that attracts tourists and locals who line up for the scene and affordable Hong Kong comfort food.

Heath Mall basement, Shop No. S09, Chungking Mansions, 44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

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17 favorite places to eat and drink in Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo isn’t one city. It’s many cities, and each is its own universe.

Occasionally — at a certain subterranean bar big enough for only seven people, or a sushi counter on the fifth floor of a random office building — I feel as if I’m stepping into another time or dimension.

Finding your way to any of the millions of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops (some are micro-businesses in an alley in a village in the city) can be like figuring out a many-layered puzzle. Like Tokyo, each experience is dense.

Use these handy dining guides for all of your summer travel, near and far.

The Japanese word for hospitality is omotenashi. But its meaning goes far beyond just customer service. Even the translations “wholehearted, selfless hospitality” or “flawless care” don’t cover all of the philosophies that make up omotenashi: magokoro (“true heart” or “sincere feeling”), ichigo ichie (“one time, one meeting”) and kuuki wo yomu (“reading the air”). The last refers to the intuitive ability to anticipate guests’ needs before they ask — an idea rooted in tea ceremony, which is rooted in Buddhism. It’s hard to grasp that level of selflessness.

Here are some of our favorite places to lose yourself in Tokyo. — Betty Hallock

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New L.A. Times feature: Save our expert recs for your next adventure

Whether you’re looking for the best restaurants L.A. has to offer, a fun and affordable way to spend your day or a new adventure in one of our city’s iconic neighborhoods, the Los Angeles Times has you covered.

You can now make our guides your own by saving individual recommendations for later — mixing and matching from food to fun and everything in between — with the confidence that your choices are backed by L.A. Times experts.

screenshot from latimes.com showing a button to save a recommendation for swan boats at Echo Park Lake

Saving is simple. Visit any of our local guides, find something that interests you and look for the “Save” button. From there, you can choose a category in which to save your item, such as Food & Drink or Things to Do.

Not an L.A. Times subscriber? Don’t worry. You can register for a free account to get saving on many of our guides. Once you’ve saved a few items, check out your personalized save dashboard at latimes.com/saved/guides. You can also find it in the site account dropdown menu.

Call it a wish list, bucket list or checklist — the dashboard is all yours. Revisit your saves, remove ones you don’t want and even see your items on a personal map.

We hope this makes it easier to explore L.A. and beyond.

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Where to eat and drink near SoFi Stadium in Inglewood

Making a rib stop on the way to a game and then eating your barbecue inside your car — or, better, on the hood of your car if you don’t want sauce-stained seats — has been a classic move since the days the Lakers used to play at the Forum in Inglewood. Lately, however, it’s getting harder to find old-school L.A. barbecue — the wood-smoked ribs and links and small ends that have long powered this city. Luckily, Inglewood is home to two outposts from the first family of L.A. barbecue: Woody’s (see separate entry), started by the late Woodrow “Woody” Phillips and Phillips Bar-B-Que from Woody’s cousin Foster Phillips, who still inspires younger pitmasters. Where Woody’s has patio seating, Phillips, in traditional barbecue style, is a take-out-only shop with a tightly packed parking lot off Centinela Avenue. It’s the only location that remains after the 2024 closure of Phillips’ Crenshaw spot. Recently, I stopped in for pork ribs so tender the meat easily came free from the bone; small ends, a meaty cut Phillips helped popularize; plus sides of greens and an especially cheesy macaroni and cheese. If you order your rib sauce hot, it may not be as spicy as it was in the old days, but it still has the sweet taste of nostalgia.



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Best places to eat and drink near the L.A. Coliseum

First-timers visiting the 35,000-square-foot Mercado La Paloma, take heed: The line likely trailing out the door and into the parking lot is specifically for Holbox, the most decorated and popular among the market’s seven food vendors. Chef Gilberto Cetina’s mariscos creations are revolutionary in their freshness and jigsaw-intricate flavors. Tuna tostada, scallop aguachile, coctel mixto and smoked kanpachi taco number among must-try dishes. Other wonderful options in the mercado await without the Holbox queues. Begin at Komal, where Fátima Juárez’s quesadillas and tacos, as beautiful as they are delicious, showcase the earthy-fragrant masa she crafts daily from heirloom corn varieties, and Chichén Itzá, where the Cetina family serves lush, orange-scented cochinita pibil and other specialties from the Yucatán. The mercado is such a vital sanctuary for the city that fellow critic Jenn Harris and I ranked it number one on our recent guide to the 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles.

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‘No reservations, no waiter, just great sea views, food and drink’: readers’ favourite beach bars in Europe | Beach holidays

Roll with the lobsters near Derek Jarman’s house in Dungeness, Kent

Dungeness is a place of wild beauty, a stretch of coast that knows fierce winds. Artist and gardener Derek Jarman’s cottage roof blew off at least once and the wind regularly wreaked havoc with his planting. Stubborn plants survive on this vast shingle beach and just as stubborn is the Snack Shack, with its opening times dependent on the weather, as its website says. On fair weather days it’s an ideal place to have lunch as you explore the peninsula. If you’re in luck they will not have run out of lobster rolls among other freshly caught seafood delights. Paying homage to Jarman and eating outdoors here replenishes the soul.
Charlotte

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Readers’ tips: send a tip for a chance to win a £200 voucher for a Coolstays break

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage

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Captain’s tables on the Brittany coast

Captain Marée, a 30-minute cycle from Vannes in Brittany, is a collection of mismatched tables and chairs beside two shacks on a shellfish farm on the Gulf of Morbihan. Here, you’ll find a simple menu featuring fresh oysters and mussels, all served by welcoming staff. The place offers wonderful views of the gulf and if you are really into your seafood, few places could offer better quality or a friendlier atmosphere.
Kelvin Atkins

Watch for seals on the Isle of Arran

Cladach Beach House is tucked away at the end of the strand in Brodick, on Arran. Outdoor cocktails (with a large dinosaur sculpture) if its sunny, a cosy fire inside the shack by the big windows if the weather closes in. It’s an adorable mix of homemade and glamorous as you watch for seals.
Clara

Select your fish from the daily catch near Narbonne, France

La Perle Gruissanaise. Photograph: Gautier Stephane/Alamy

La Perle Gruissanaise lies at the end of the reclaimed wild end of Chalets beach not far from Narbonne in the south of France. Select your fish from the daily catch, and it’ll be expertly cooked by the chefs along with a selection of homemade sides. Then, grab a carafe of local chilled wine and take your seat on the wooden benches. There’s no table service and no reservations, just great food and drink – and uninterrupted views over the Mediterranean to the horizon. Alternatively, they’ll put together a fantastic platter to take away and enjoy at home or on the beach.
Doug

A thatched classic in County Sligo, Ireland

Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Photograph: PR

The west of Ireland is a rugged place full of nooks and crannies. In one of them is the Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Follow the handmade signs that direct you off the main N59 Sligo road. Eventually, the road peters out at the curving beach overlooked by the thatched Beach Bar. There you can enjoy a bowl of chowder, local seafood and meaty classics, alongside friendly locals. On a fine day, you can sit outside and take in the majestic view across the sea to Sligo and beyond.
Tony Moon

Watch the sunset over the Libyan Sea in Crete

Matala Beach at dusk. Photograph: Westend61 GmbH/Alamy

Perched above Matala’s legendary bay in southern Crete, Petra & Votsalo (on Facebook) is a gorgeous beachside taverna. Harris, the owner, greets everyone like family and sets an easy, unhurried tone. Two courses and a cold beer cost about €20. The terrace glows as the sun sets into the Libyan Sea. Order a starter of creamy, flaky tiropita cheese pastries followed by rich, tender stifado and an ice-cold Mythos. Finish with complimentary family-produced raki as waves roll in and light fades over the bay.
James Merriman

Cocktails in a medieval tower on the Adriatic in Croatia

Photograph: Matyas Rehak/Alamy

Massimo cocktail bar (on Instagram) is the place to experience sunset on Korčula, Croatia. Space is limited so get there early. And if you don’t like heights or struggle with steep ladders, give it a miss! Your drinks will arrive by pulley from the bar below and, as you sit at your table on top of the medieval tower, you can see for miles across the sea to the neighbouring islands. The margaritas are highly recommended but remember you have to get back down the same way, so best to stick to one or two.
Gill

A beach bar for all seasons near Lisbon

Photograph: Volodymyr Goinyk/Alamy

The Bar do Guincho in Cascais near Lisbon is that rare thing, a beach bar for all seasons. It’s perfectly positioned for stunning Atlantic views and combines a rustic, welcoming vibe with a lively atmosphere. I have enjoyed the sunshine and a cocktail on the terrace there after lazing on the beach, but I’ve also cozied up by its blazing log fire in autumn with a warming bowl of fish soup. It’s an easy day trip from Lisbon, too – there are trains every 30 minutes from Cais do Sodré and the journey takes 40 minutes. Then you get the regular No 15 bus or a taxi to beautiful Praia do Guincho, which takes about 20 minutes.
Nicoletta

Seafood shack on the Black Sea, Bulgaria

Where Bulgaria meets Turkey on the Black Sea, you’ll find the sleepy resort of Sinemorets. The place has an eccentric feel, but nowhere more so than the seafood shack Taliana (on Instagram), which sits right on the rugged coastline. Mussels are a must-try, but everything is as fresh as you’d expect from the location – and incredible value. After driving halfway across the country on a slightly ill-advised trek, we arrived a little desperate, bedraggled and starved so it was great to receive a warm welcome and probably the tastiest meal of our whole trip.
Tim Alderson

Winning tip: Puglia perfection, near Gallipoli, Italy

Lido Conchiglie. Photograph: Giuseppe Colasanto/Alamy

Visible from the wide sandy beach at Lido Conchiglie, near Gallipoli in Puglia, Scapricciatiello (on Facebook) perches on a rocky spur reaching out into the sea. With its plastic chairs and paper tablecloths (which double as menus), it could certainly never be accused of being all style over substance. Yet what it offers instead is hard to beat: delicious, fresh local seafood, enjoyed beside turquoise waters. Adventurous diners can follow local tradition and sample the cozze crude (raw mussels), while other choices include spaghetti with mussels or clams, followed by fritto misto or grilled swordfish.
Katharine



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What to eat, drink and do along L.A.’s new Metro D Line extension

Don’t you ever wish you could explore one of L.A.’s most vibrant boulevards without a car? When the first phase of Metro’s extension to its D Line opens May 8, L.A.’s transit system will add what has long been a missing puzzle piece. A busy, traffic-snarled section of Wilshire Boulevard, home to world-class museums, restaurants and galleries, will at long last be significantly more accessible.

Ride and walk, for instance, to the newly reimagined Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and then stroll to the Original Farmers Market or the acclaimed République. Or take transit to a concert at the El Rey Theatre, then grab a pint at Tom Bergin’s. And do it all without stressing about valet or parking in a part of town where the latter is at a premium.

Though this initial phase of the D Line extension is only three stops, for residents and business owners in the community, it feels monumental.

“I’m so excited for Metro to open and for lots of people to hopefully come and peruse these streets,” says Christina Mullin, owner of Miracle Mile Toys & Gifts. Mullin, who also lives in the neighborhood, has seen the area disrupted by construction for the better part of a decade, and is hopeful the subway stops will bring in an influx of shoppers.

“It’s such a nice, walkable area,” Mullin says. “You can walk all of La Brea and all the way to the Sycamore Kitchen. This will be very good for the city.”

And it seems to be generating much excitement, at least if Metro’s own marketing is any indication. A line of innuendo-filled “Ride the D” shirts went viral and then almost instantaneously sold out. (Those looking for the shirts are likely out of luck, as a Metro spokesperson says the item was intended only as a limited-edition run.)

Here are some highlights of destinations along the new stations, which are located at Wilshire/La Brea, Wilshire/Fairfax, Wilshire/La Cienega and will collectively serve Koreatown, Miracle Mile, Hancock Park, Carthay Circle, the Fairfax District and Beverly Hills. All should be within about a 20- or 25 minute walk.

The second section of the D Line will continue west through Beverly Hills and Century City, and the third will extend to Westwood and UCLA. The full rail line, according to Metro, is expected to be open by the end of 2027.

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