drink

Sun and citrus in the south of France

The town of Menton on the French Riviera is beautiful at any time of the year but becomes even more of a treat during the annual Lemon festival (Fête du Citron, 10-28 February 2027). Its microclimate, courtesy of the Alps to the north blocking colder winds, gives Menton lemons a distinct fragrance, flavour and quality that set them apart. For me, the event transformed a damp cold UK winter into a fortnight of colour, taste and light. There were food tastings, salads made with lemons, tarts, cakes and pies all full of zesty colour and flavour at stalls and markets in the town. There are sculptures made from citrus fruit, parades and exhibitions in the Golden Garden of Light (Jardins Biovès). More than a food festival, it’s a celebration of what nature can give to the world.
April

Veneto’s Tiramisù World Cup

Last autumn, I discovered there is an annual Tiramisù World Cup. I was staying in Treviso (the lovely town near Venice where the dessert originated) during the three-day event featuring tastings, demonstrations from local chefs and a judging contest involving the public. There’s also folk music in the streets, and restaurants offer promotional prices on set meals from about €20 for two courses. In fact, sitting in a mini gondola, prosecco in one hand, bowl of tiramisu in the other, gliding along a canal past ornate houses while the distant snow-capped mountains of the Dolomites sparkled in the sunshine, certainly aided my appetite for food and life.
Peter

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A cheeky celebration in Tuscany

The Gota Cotta festival in Tuscany (4 October) is a celebration of local meat – pork cheeks. It was a niche product, falling out of favour, but a group of local butchers created the festival to celebrate the local delicacy. It takes over the medieval hilltop town of Colle di Val d’Elsa in Siena province with stalls selling everything from pasta to gelato – all made with pork cheek. There’s also excellent wine and craft beers … all in the most beautiful setting.
Rebecca Nicholl

Switzerland knows its onions

I stumbled across Zibelemärit, Bern’s annual onion fair, on a chilly November morning. The old town was packed with farmers selling beautifully braided onions, garlic and seasonal produce. The streets were filled with tempting aromas from stalls frying onion tarts and serving steaming bowls of onion soup and cafes selling sweet onion-shaped pastries. A mug of warming glühwein was the perfect accompaniment. It was a wonderfully local event and chatting to growers about their harvest made me feel part of a genuine celebration of Swiss farming traditions. Zibelemärit takes place on the fourth Monday in November.
Susanna

The Italian town devoted to leeks

You have to admire the town of Cervere in Piedmont, south of Turin, which is so devoted to its leeks that it has erected a permanent pavilion called the Palaporro (porro is Italian for leek) for its annual festival, called Fiera del Porro Cervere (7-22 November). Book ahead for the sit-down tasting menu, or buy leeky treats such as gratin and risotto to take away, as we did. During the sagra, the town centre is packed with stalls, many heaving with the distinctive bunches of extra-long local leeks. Our favourite part was taking a shuttle bus down to the sandy leek fields in the valley, where enthusiasts explained the traditional cultivation techniques.
Martha

Farmers and brass bands in North Yorkshire

Malton is a little village in North Yorkshire that punches way above its size when it comes to food festivals. The annual festival is worth a visit in late spring (29-30 May 2027), but so are the monthly farmers’ markets that bring together incredible local suppliers and makers. Plus, there’s a good chance of hearing a top-class brass band while you mooch and taste. Bloomin’ marvellous!
Beth

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Newcastle’s battle of the food vendors

Wylam Brewery’s street vendor food battles in Newcastle upon Tyne showcase local independent eateries serving their bestselling dishes to win a chance at being crowned the culinary King of Newcastle at the final Battle Royale (28 & 29 August). The competitions are wittily titled, for example Lord of the Wings for the chicken wings competition (23 & 24 October) and Argie Bhaji (27 & 28 November) for Indian street food. The concept is simple: each event offers different cuisines from pizza to pan-Asian to plant-based. The winner of each event is the vendor with the most pre-paid tokens. Set in the idyllic Exhibition Park, with DJs playing into the night, locals know not to miss these summer festivals.
Carly Bamborough

‘A proper northern’ affair in Bolton

Bolton food & drink festival (28-31 August) is brilliant because it feels properly northern: busy streets, good smells, live music and families everywhere. It is not trying to be too polished, which is why it works. You can wander from stall to stall, try something different, grab something sweet for the kids and still feel like you are part of the town. The best bit is the atmosphere. Chefs, local businesses, music and people all come together in one place. It is simple, affordable and full of energy. For a family day out, it is hard to beat.
Nicholas Pearce

The pride of Plymouth

Plymouth Flavour Fest, at the end of May each year, ranks among the finest food gatherings I’ve experienced anywhere. Boutique delicatessens form neat rows, with smartly dressed stallholders presenting produce with infectious pride. Pies, salamis, chillies, confectionery, preserves, hot food – all the good stuff laid out irresistibly. Take a cool bag and budget for things you never knew you needed. Plymouth’s Armada Way is perfect for the event, never claustrophobic when busy. A short stroll takes you to the Hoe, perfect for munching on a treat overlooking one of the finest harbours in the world. Good food brings out the best in people and, for a few hours at least, the world is put to rights.
Grant Wyness

‘Ireland’s culinary playground’

Every October, the charming fishing town of Dingle transforms into Ireland’s ultimate culinary playground. The Dingle food festival (2-4 October) brings more than 60 venues to life for the famous Taste Trail, where pubs, galleries and shopfronts serve up local seafood, artisan cheeses and much more. Add bustling market stalls, cookery masterclasses and workshops, live street music and a strong zero-waste ethos, and you’ve got a weekend that celebrates the best of Irish food, drink and hospitality, all with Irish small-town warmth.
John O’Kelly

ALAN Carr’s ex-husband has told his side of their story in an explosive new memoir — lifting the lid on boozy nights with Adele and his own battles with drink and drugs.

Paul Drayton describes life inside a high-profile relationship and devotes an entire chapter to superstar singer Adele, who lived near the former couple.

Paul, 54, and Alan, 50, met in 2008 and tied the knot ten years later in a lavish Los Angeles ceremony officiated by Adele.

Recalling their nights together, Paul writes: “Most evenings we’d just get a Thai takeaway. Adele would turn up with a cheap bottle of wine, which we sank in a second, and moved on to our supplies.”

Paul also claims he helped introduce Adele to her first husband Simon Konecki, the father of her son Angelo, 13.

He writes: “She was always very honest and open with me and Alan because she knew she could trust us.”

Paul also reveals Adele played them her chart-topping album 30 before its release.

And he fondly recalls “the time I took her to TK Maxx for the first time”, adding: “She couldn’t believe it as we combed through the rails hunting for bargains.”

Elsewhere in the memoir, Paul speaks candidly about his struggles with alcohol and drugs.

He writes: “Alcohol and drugs became my crutch. They slowed my brain down, quietened the constant noise in my head, and evened me out so I felt like I was on the same level as everyone else.”

Paul also lays bare how his relationship with Alan began, and how it developed.

He recalls: “Sexy? Sure. Marriage material? Possibly. Did I know at that moment I’d marry him one day? Of course not. But something clicked. He was unlike anyone I’d ever met.”

The pair later ended up in a nightclub — leaving Paul to wake the following morning thinking: “Oh my God, I’d been snogging Alan Carr.”

Paul went on: “There were moments when I genuinely thought we could’ve been the next Morecambe and Wise.”

But he says life with Alan soon “took over”, adding: “My dream of acting — well, it would have to wait.”

Opening up about living in the comedian’s shadow, Paul writes: “From the outside, it looked like I had it all. Alan in the spotlight, me in the wings. The ‘plus one’. The ‘kept man’… in designer sunglasses, holding the dogs and carrying the bags.

“But I wasn’t just standing there. I was driving the car, clearing the path, fixing the messes. Planning our exits like we were royalty.

“I’d like to think I was his ride or die — as he was mine, or at least, I bloody tried.

“I’ve been the clown, the cleaner, the carer and the chaos. I’ve fallen apart, pulled myself back together, and ended up in a police cell drinking toilet water out of a kid’s party cup.”

Paul was handed a 14-week prison sentence in January 2022 after admitting drink-driving.

He spent two nights in custody before successfully appealing the sentence, which was replaced with a 12-week term suspended for two years.

Alan and Paul announced their separation that month after 13 years together. The couple have remained friends following their split.

Speaking previously, Alan has said: “We’re still always going to be friends because we’ve been through so much together.”

Ride Or Die Trying by Paul Drayton is out now.

Bakeries

It has to be Københavns Bageri; they upgrade beloved Danish classics using the best ingredients. The cardamom buns are second to none, but the “potato cake” – that’s a choux bun filled with vanilla custard and topped with a cocoa-dusted marzipan disc to resemble a potato – might be my favourite. MF

For bread, go to Tír Bakery in the morning and stand in line – they sell out every day, but their bread is the best. For croissants, go to Bageriet B and sit outside and enjoy a good filter coffee. TH

Hands down, Juno the Bakery. Founded by pastry chef Emil Glaser, the space was designed so you can see the bakers at work. What makes it special is the level of technique and consistency; they’re known for their cardamom buns, which are buttery, fragrant … perfect, and their sourdough and croissants are flawless. I usually order a cardamom bun, perhaps a pistachio croissant (if it’s available), and a sourdough roll with comté. Then I sit with a coffee and watch the production. KB

My go-to right now is Albatross & Venner in Torvehallerne. We have our original taqueria nearby, so I love walking over to grab a quick pastry – usually the spandauer – before work. I love that they’re baking every day in this tiny space, serving pastries that are often still warm from the oven. Insider tip: they sell fresh baguettes, which is rare in the city. RS

Coffee

Det Vide Hus in the heart of Copenhagen is a hidden gemmuch loved by locals, and it’s a favourite breakfast spot among Copenhagen chefs. Everything from seasonal pastries to the decadent ice-cream bars are made in house. MF

I am a bit of a traditionalist when it comes to coffee; I never understood why filter coffee became a pour-over, so I go to one of Original Coffee’s places and order traditional beans. For an independent place, go to Enghave Kaffe for some Danish hygge – the coffee is really good, as is the BMO (bun with cheese and butter). TH

Copenhagen is incredibly lucky when it comes to coffee. If I’m near Sanchez restaurant, I’ll go to Prolog Coffee Bar in the Meatpacking District because the coffee is always excellent, the team are lovely, and the atmosphere feels relaxed but focused. If I’m looking to sit and have a pour-over moment, I love April Coffee. RS

Breakfast

Apotek 57, located inside the Frama store, is one of the prettiest eateries in Copenhagen. Chef-owner Chiara’s Italian roots are at the heart of her food, with an emphasis on seasonal vegetables, fragrant herbs and a generous drizzle of olive oil. Try the porridge with apple, thyme and Piedmont hazelnuts. MF

Cycle to Nordhavn and start at Andersen & Maillard. Get a BMO, coffee and pastry – a classic Danish breakfast – then cycle to nearby Skudehavnen, where you’ll find small fishing huts, boatsheds and a harbour. It’s a pocket from the past; find a tranquil spot at one of the piers, have your breakfast and dip your toes in the water. TH

Atelier September is an effortless meeting point between design, creativity and good food. I love the breakfast selection: eggs, avocado, vegetarian dishes – all delicious. There’s an energy; you feel connected to the city’s cultural pulse simply by sitting there. KB

I don’t typically go out for breakfast, but if I do, I love Amator, where they specialise in omelettes served with slices of bread and wonderful sides. The menu is small, but they’re dedicated to making everything the best it can be, which I always appreciate. Get the omelette with chilli, and always end with a lemon tart. RS

Cheap eats

There are so many great choices, but nothing beats soaking up the sun with a wedge of Diamond Slice pizza and a glass of wine. Even pineapple haters succumb to the Canadiana with fermented pineapple, ham and pickled jalapeños. MF

It’s hard to decide what I love most, books or food, but it is heaven when they go together. Brøg Litteraturbar has a great selection of both Danish and English titles, and a nice small cafe where they do an excellent lunch for a fair price. I get the tart or soup of the day, and this is hygge and full of love. TH

One of my favourite spots for a laid-back weekday meal is Slurp. Its ramen is exactly the kind of comfort I crave when I don’t feel like cooking: pure flavour and thoughtful but unfussy toppings. I’d recommend the house pork bone broth with chashu, spring onions and a soft‑boiled egg, or go for the miso‑based bowl for something a little lighter. It’s the sort of place I’d take my family for something quick and easy – relaxed and with genuinely good food. KB

I highly recommend Poulette and their spicy fried chicken sandwich. They’ve been around for some years now and are always consistent: very tasty, deeply comforting, and extremely filling and affordable. The sandwiches are made with their own spicy blend, the chicken is marinated in-house, and the crust somehow stays crisp. I also love that there’s nothing quite like it in Copenhagen. To elevate things beyond a quick meal, grab a glass of wine next door at Pompette and enjoy it outside. RS

Splurge meals

When I feel like spoiling myself, one of the best places is the newly renovated Krogs Fiskerestaurant overlooking the canals at the old fish market. It uses classic French techniques with the best local seafood and seasonal produce to make the most delicious food. The menu changes often but if you see anything with beurre blanc and four types of roe, choose that! MF

Mikkel Mårbjerg is one of a few chefs that represent modern Danish cooking – they call VIE in Nordhavn a modern inn. He gets his produce from his daughter’s regenerative farm, and you feel his love of vegetables. They cook cabbage like only a few do, served with langostino and bisque, and their potato bread with löjrom and creme fraiche is a must. If sandart (a local freshwater fish) is in season, please try it, and then finish with the almond cake and ice-cream – it’s divine. TH

For fine dining, it has to be Geranium. There’s a clarity and precision in every dish that’s hard to find elsewhere. Located on the eighth floor of Parken Stadium, overlooking Fælledparken, it holds three Michelin stars and is an experience from start to finish. The concept centres on a plant‑forward tasting menu, and the attention to detail is extraordinary. The pacing, the wine pairings, the service – everything is perfectly in sync. The bread course, with whipped butter and seasonal oils, and its signature raw scallop dish, have stayed with me. KB

I would definitely go to Akmē; it’s not necessarily three-star Michelin expensive, but it feels like a splurge (in the best way). I love that you simply go with the menu and let the team cook – there’s a real sense of trust in the experience. The food feels creative, and the hospitality is warm and genuine. Lately, it has become one of my favourite places for a special occasion, or even just to go to feel inspired. RS

The Meatpacking District

One of the best dinner spots in “the meat town” is fishy. Kødbyens Fiskebar, which sits under a fresco of a bull at the entrance to the old meat market, serves incredibly pretty dishes in this buzzy but unpolished food quarter: brill with a deep blush of rhubarb, topped with samphire and chive blossoms; bright orange roe crowned with scarlet nasturtium petals, to heap on a seaweed waffle; prawns in a buttermilk sauce marbled with emerald herb oil. It all looks exquisite and it’s not a hearty menu, although you could go for, say, the mussels steamed in a cream-laden cider.

Dolly Parton once said: “It takes a lot of time and money to look this cheap.” The nearby Superbon has only been around a few years but has the vibe of a generations-old family business, with its seemingly random but carefully curated 1970s velvet-and-chrome decor and 80s video games arcade on the way to the bathroom. The menu is Asian, delicious and affordable by Copenhagen standards – pork gyoza, soft-shell crab, lychee salad, bao with hoisin duck and pickled daikon, huge chicken leg with green sambal. Afterwards, go for an ice-cream at Ismagieret – the menu changes but you might try the amarena cherry or the marzipan with pistachio ganache. Young visitors could end their evening in one of the packed bars but you could also start your day with a cheese roll or a cardamom croissant at Hart Bageri, one of the bakery’s eight branches in the city. Opposite is Prolog Coffee, which has a range of speciality beans from Peru, Colombia and Kenya, and a small selection of Juno pastries, saving you from the social influenza of the queue at their Østerbro shop. TL

Cocktails

There are many great cocktail bars in Copenhagen, but none like Geoffrey Canilao’s crazy, cosy bar, Balderdash. The motto is: “Keep it hygge.” The Blonde Ambition with gin, elderflower, cardamom and bergamot is a forever favourite. MF

K-bar was one of the first places to take cocktails seriously in Copenhagen, and I’ve been coming here since it opened. I like to go there early for a classic negroni – there’s beautiful outside seating in the summer with a view to the old town. For a wine bar, I like Ancestrale, which is organic certified. I go here for a glass of red wine and cheese with hazelnuts and brown butter – one of its classics. TH

I go to Tadaima to dream as much as I do to buy pieces for my ever-growing collection of kitchenware. From porcelain egg cups to sculptural shelving systems, everything is carefully curated with a Japanese/Scandinavian minimalist aesthetic. It also has pieces from one of my favourite craftsmen/artists, the Danish glass blower Nina Nørgaard. MF

The best kitchen shop I know is Kunst og Køkkentøj in the centre of Copenhagen. Competent staff, a great cookbook selection, a specially made baking tin for rye bread, knives, baking equipment, and the best large tweezer I know. They wrap everything in brown paper, and you feel special when you leave the shop. TH

I like to visit Frama for homeware; I’m really drawn to the balance between warmth and simplicity in its designs. And I especially appreciate a lot of its soaps and scents. Frama is also associated with a number of restaurants and cafes that they have designed, so it’s always interesting to see how they curate spaces and atmospheres that feel calm and lived in. RS

A fine place to stop for a milk tea-centered breakfast or lunch after exploring the labyrinth of African, Indian and other international shops and food stalls inside Chungking Mansions — one of the last remaining film locations in Wong Kar-wai’s iconic “Chungking Express,” where Brigitte Lin’s drug-dealing retired actor is seen conducting her business in a blond wig, trenchcoat and sunglasses. Lan Fong Yuen, in the basement of Heath Mall (which is technically part of Chungking Mansions but has a separate street entrance), has its own historic pedigree. Late founder Lam Muk-ho is credited with originating silk-stocking milk tea (it’s strained through a long cloth filter), and possibly yuenyeung (milk tea mixed with coffee), at the still-operating Gage Street stall he opened in Central in 1952. He’s also said to have popularized the thick-cut Hong Kong-style French toast and pork-chop buns so familiar in our own San Gabriel Valley cafes, as well as “lo-ding” instant noodle dishes, especially the chicken-chop version. The Tsim Sha Tsui location opened in 2009 but has an older diner aesthetic that attracts tourists and locals who line up for the scene and affordable Hong Kong comfort food.

Heath Mall basement, Shop No. S09, Chungking Mansions, 44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Tokyo isn’t one city. It’s many cities, and each is its own universe.

Occasionally — at a certain subterranean bar big enough for only seven people, or a sushi counter on the fifth floor of a random office building — I feel as if I’m stepping into another time or dimension.

Finding your way to any of the millions of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops (some are micro-businesses in an alley in a village in the city) can be like figuring out a many-layered puzzle. Like Tokyo, each experience is dense.

The Japanese word for hospitality is omotenashi. But its meaning goes far beyond just customer service. Even the translations “wholehearted, selfless hospitality” or “flawless care” don’t cover all of the philosophies that make up omotenashi: magokoro (“true heart” or “sincere feeling”), ichigo ichie (“one time, one meeting”) and kuuki wo yomu (“reading the air”). The last refers to the intuitive ability to anticipate guests’ needs before they ask — an idea rooted in tea ceremony, which is rooted in Buddhism. It’s hard to grasp that level of selflessness.

Here are some of our favorite places to lose yourself in Tokyo. — Betty Hallock

Whether you’re looking for the best restaurants L.A. has to offer, a fun and affordable way to spend your day or a new adventure in one of our city’s iconic neighborhoods, the Los Angeles Times has you covered.

You can now make our guides your own by saving individual recommendations for later — mixing and matching from food to fun and everything in between — with the confidence that your choices are backed by L.A. Times experts.

Saving is simple. Visit any of our local guides, find something that interests you and look for the “Save” button. From there, you can choose a category in which to save your item, such as Food & Drink or Things to Do.

Not an L.A. Times subscriber? Don’t worry. You can register for a free account to get saving on many of our guides. Once you’ve saved a few items, check out your personalized save dashboard at latimes.com/saved/guides. You can also find it in the site account dropdown menu.

Call it a wish list, bucket list or checklist — the dashboard is all yours. Revisit your saves, remove ones you don’t want and even see your items on a personal map.

We hope this makes it easier to explore L.A. and beyond.

Making a rib stop on the way to a game and then eating your barbecue inside your car — or, better, on the hood of your car if you don’t want sauce-stained seats — has been a classic move since the days the Lakers used to play at the Forum in Inglewood. Lately, however, it’s getting harder to find old-school L.A. barbecue — the wood-smoked ribs and links and small ends that have long powered this city. Luckily, Inglewood is home to two outposts from the first family of L.A. barbecue: Woody’s (see separate entry), started by the late Woodrow “Woody” Phillips and Phillips Bar-B-Que from Woody’s cousin Foster Phillips, who still inspires younger pitmasters. Where Woody’s has patio seating, Phillips, in traditional barbecue style, is a take-out-only shop with a tightly packed parking lot off Centinela Avenue. It’s the only location that remains after the 2024 closure of Phillips’ Crenshaw spot. Recently, I stopped in for pork ribs so tender the meat easily came free from the bone; small ends, a meaty cut Phillips helped popularize; plus sides of greens and an especially cheesy macaroni and cheese. If you order your rib sauce hot, it may not be as spicy as it was in the old days, but it still has the sweet taste of nostalgia.

First-timers visiting the 35,000-square-foot Mercado La Paloma, take heed: The line likely trailing out the door and into the parking lot is specifically for Holbox, the most decorated and popular among the market’s seven food vendors. Chef Gilberto Cetina’s mariscos creations are revolutionary in their freshness and jigsaw-intricate flavors. Tuna tostada, scallop aguachile, coctel mixto and smoked kanpachi taco number among must-try dishes. Other wonderful options in the mercado await without the Holbox queues. Begin at Komal, where Fátima Juárez’s quesadillas and tacos, as beautiful as they are delicious, showcase the earthy-fragrant masa she crafts daily from heirloom corn varieties, and Chichén Itzá, where the Cetina family serves lush, orange-scented cochinita pibil and other specialties from the Yucatán. The mercado is such a vital sanctuary for the city that fellow critic Jenn Harris and I ranked it number one on our recent guide to the 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles.

Roll with the lobsters near Derek Jarman’s house in Dungeness, Kent

Dungeness is a place of wild beauty, a stretch of coast that knows fierce winds. Artist and gardener Derek Jarman’s cottage roof blew off at least once and the wind regularly wreaked havoc with his planting. Stubborn plants survive on this vast shingle beach and just as stubborn is the Snack Shack, with its opening times dependent on the weather, as its website says. On fair weather days it’s an ideal place to have lunch as you explore the peninsula. If you’re in luck they will not have run out of lobster rolls among other freshly caught seafood delights. Paying homage to Jarman and eating outdoors here replenishes the soul.
Charlotte

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Captain’s tables on the Brittany coast

Captain Marée, a 30-minute cycle from Vannes in Brittany, is a collection of mismatched tables and chairs beside two shacks on a shellfish farm on the Gulf of Morbihan. Here, you’ll find a simple menu featuring fresh oysters and mussels, all served by welcoming staff. The place offers wonderful views of the gulf and if you are really into your seafood, few places could offer better quality or a friendlier atmosphere.
Kelvin Atkins

Watch for seals on the Isle of Arran

Cladach Beach House is tucked away at the end of the strand in Brodick, on Arran. Outdoor cocktails (with a large dinosaur sculpture) if its sunny, a cosy fire inside the shack by the big windows if the weather closes in. It’s an adorable mix of homemade and glamorous as you watch for seals.
Clara

Select your fish from the daily catch near Narbonne, France

La Perle Gruissanaise lies at the end of the reclaimed wild end of Chalets beach not far from Narbonne in the south of France. Select your fish from the daily catch, and it’ll be expertly cooked by the chefs along with a selection of homemade sides. Then, grab a carafe of local chilled wine and take your seat on the wooden benches. There’s no table service and no reservations, just great food and drink – and uninterrupted views over the Mediterranean to the horizon. Alternatively, they’ll put together a fantastic platter to take away and enjoy at home or on the beach.
Doug

A thatched classic in County Sligo, Ireland

The west of Ireland is a rugged place full of nooks and crannies. In one of them is the Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Follow the handmade signs that direct you off the main N59 Sligo road. Eventually, the road peters out at the curving beach overlooked by the thatched Beach Bar. There you can enjoy a bowl of chowder, local seafood and meaty classics, alongside friendly locals. On a fine day, you can sit outside and take in the majestic view across the sea to Sligo and beyond.
Tony Moon

Watch the sunset over the Libyan Sea in Crete

Perched above Matala’s legendary bay in southern Crete, Petra & Votsalo (on Facebook) is a gorgeous beachside taverna. Harris, the owner, greets everyone like family and sets an easy, unhurried tone. Two courses and a cold beer cost about €20. The terrace glows as the sun sets into the Libyan Sea. Order a starter of creamy, flaky tiropita cheese pastries followed by rich, tender stifado and an ice-cold Mythos. Finish with complimentary family-produced raki as waves roll in and light fades over the bay.
James Merriman

Cocktails in a medieval tower on the Adriatic in Croatia

Massimo cocktail bar (on Instagram) is the place to experience sunset on Korčula, Croatia. Space is limited so get there early. And if you don’t like heights or struggle with steep ladders, give it a miss! Your drinks will arrive by pulley from the bar below and, as you sit at your table on top of the medieval tower, you can see for miles across the sea to the neighbouring islands. The margaritas are highly recommended but remember you have to get back down the same way, so best to stick to one or two.
Gill

A beach bar for all seasons near Lisbon

The Bar do Guincho in Cascais near Lisbon is that rare thing, a beach bar for all seasons. It’s perfectly positioned for stunning Atlantic views and combines a rustic, welcoming vibe with a lively atmosphere. I have enjoyed the sunshine and a cocktail on the terrace there after lazing on the beach, but I’ve also cozied up by its blazing log fire in autumn with a warming bowl of fish soup. It’s an easy day trip from Lisbon, too – there are trains every 30 minutes from Cais do Sodré and the journey takes 40 minutes. Then you get the regular No 15 bus or a taxi to beautiful Praia do Guincho, which takes about 20 minutes.
Nicoletta

Seafood shack on the Black Sea, Bulgaria

Where Bulgaria meets Turkey on the Black Sea, you’ll find the sleepy resort of Sinemorets. The place has an eccentric feel, but nowhere more so than the seafood shack Taliana (on Instagram), which sits right on the rugged coastline. Mussels are a must-try, but everything is as fresh as you’d expect from the location – and incredible value. After driving halfway across the country on a slightly ill-advised trek, we arrived a little desperate, bedraggled and starved so it was great to receive a warm welcome and probably the tastiest meal of our whole trip.
Tim Alderson

Winning tip: Puglia perfection, near Gallipoli, Italy

Visible from the wide sandy beach at Lido Conchiglie, near Gallipoli in Puglia, Scapricciatiello (on Facebook) perches on a rocky spur reaching out into the sea. With its plastic chairs and paper tablecloths (which double as menus), it could certainly never be accused of being all style over substance. Yet what it offers instead is hard to beat: delicious, fresh local seafood, enjoyed beside turquoise waters. Adventurous diners can follow local tradition and sample the cozze crude (raw mussels), while other choices include spaghetti with mussels or clams, followed by fritto misto or grilled swordfish.
Katharine