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‘No reservations, no waiter, just great sea views, food and drink’: readers’ favourite beach bars in Europe | Beach holidays

Roll with the lobsters near Derek Jarman’s house in Dungeness, Kent

Dungeness is a place of wild beauty, a stretch of coast that knows fierce winds. Artist and gardener Derek Jarman’s cottage roof blew off at least once and the wind regularly wreaked havoc with his planting. Stubborn plants survive on this vast shingle beach and just as stubborn is the Snack Shack, with its opening times dependent on the weather, as its website says. On fair weather days it’s an ideal place to have lunch as you explore the peninsula. If you’re in luck they will not have run out of lobster rolls among other freshly caught seafood delights. Paying homage to Jarman and eating outdoors here replenishes the soul.
Charlotte

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

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Captain’s tables on the Brittany coast

Captain Marée, a 30-minute cycle from Vannes in Brittany, is a collection of mismatched tables and chairs beside two shacks on a shellfish farm on the Gulf of Morbihan. Here, you’ll find a simple menu featuring fresh oysters and mussels, all served by welcoming staff. The place offers wonderful views of the gulf and if you are really into your seafood, few places could offer better quality or a friendlier atmosphere.
Kelvin Atkins

Watch for seals on the Isle of Arran

Cladach Beach House is tucked away at the end of the strand in Brodick, on Arran. Outdoor cocktails (with a large dinosaur sculpture) if its sunny, a cosy fire inside the shack by the big windows if the weather closes in. It’s an adorable mix of homemade and glamorous as you watch for seals.
Clara

Select your fish from the daily catch near Narbonne, France

La Perle Gruissanaise. Photograph: Gautier Stephane/Alamy

La Perle Gruissanaise lies at the end of the reclaimed wild end of Chalets beach not far from Narbonne in the south of France. Select your fish from the daily catch, and it’ll be expertly cooked by the chefs along with a selection of homemade sides. Then, grab a carafe of local chilled wine and take your seat on the wooden benches. There’s no table service and no reservations, just great food and drink – and uninterrupted views over the Mediterranean to the horizon. Alternatively, they’ll put together a fantastic platter to take away and enjoy at home or on the beach.
Doug

A thatched classic in County Sligo, Ireland

Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Photograph: PR

The west of Ireland is a rugged place full of nooks and crannies. In one of them is the Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Follow the handmade signs that direct you off the main N59 Sligo road. Eventually, the road peters out at the curving beach overlooked by the thatched Beach Bar. There you can enjoy a bowl of chowder, local seafood and meaty classics, alongside friendly locals. On a fine day, you can sit outside and take in the majestic view across the sea to Sligo and beyond.
Tony Moon

Watch the sunset over the Libyan Sea in Crete

Matala Beach at dusk. Photograph: Westend61 GmbH/Alamy

Perched above Matala’s legendary bay in southern Crete, Petra & Votsalo (on Facebook) is a gorgeous beachside taverna. Harris, the owner, greets everyone like family and sets an easy, unhurried tone. Two courses and a cold beer cost about €20. The terrace glows as the sun sets into the Libyan Sea. Order a starter of creamy, flaky tiropita cheese pastries followed by rich, tender stifado and an ice-cold Mythos. Finish with complimentary family-produced raki as waves roll in and light fades over the bay.
James Merriman

Cocktails in a medieval tower on the Adriatic in Croatia

Photograph: Matyas Rehak/Alamy

Massimo cocktail bar (on Instagram) is the place to experience sunset on Korčula, Croatia. Space is limited so get there early. And if you don’t like heights or struggle with steep ladders, give it a miss! Your drinks will arrive by pulley from the bar below and, as you sit at your table on top of the medieval tower, you can see for miles across the sea to the neighbouring islands. The margaritas are highly recommended but remember you have to get back down the same way, so best to stick to one or two.
Gill

A beach bar for all seasons near Lisbon

Photograph: Volodymyr Goinyk/Alamy

The Bar do Guincho in Cascais near Lisbon is that rare thing, a beach bar for all seasons. It’s perfectly positioned for stunning Atlantic views and combines a rustic, welcoming vibe with a lively atmosphere. I have enjoyed the sunshine and a cocktail on the terrace there after lazing on the beach, but I’ve also cozied up by its blazing log fire in autumn with a warming bowl of fish soup. It’s an easy day trip from Lisbon, too – there are trains every 30 minutes from Cais do Sodré and the journey takes 40 minutes. Then you get the regular No 15 bus or a taxi to beautiful Praia do Guincho, which takes about 20 minutes.
Nicoletta

Seafood shack on the Black Sea, Bulgaria

Where Bulgaria meets Turkey on the Black Sea, you’ll find the sleepy resort of Sinemorets. The place has an eccentric feel, but nowhere more so than the seafood shack Taliana (on Instagram), which sits right on the rugged coastline. Mussels are a must-try, but everything is as fresh as you’d expect from the location – and incredible value. After driving halfway across the country on a slightly ill-advised trek, we arrived a little desperate, bedraggled and starved so it was great to receive a warm welcome and probably the tastiest meal of our whole trip.
Tim Alderson

Winning tip: Puglia perfection, near Gallipoli, Italy

Lido Conchiglie. Photograph: Giuseppe Colasanto/Alamy

Visible from the wide sandy beach at Lido Conchiglie, near Gallipoli in Puglia, Scapricciatiello (on Facebook) perches on a rocky spur reaching out into the sea. With its plastic chairs and paper tablecloths (which double as menus), it could certainly never be accused of being all style over substance. Yet what it offers instead is hard to beat: delicious, fresh local seafood, enjoyed beside turquoise waters. Adventurous diners can follow local tradition and sample the cozze crude (raw mussels), while other choices include spaghetti with mussels or clams, followed by fritto misto or grilled swordfish.
Katharine



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What to eat, drink and do along L.A.’s new Metro D Line extension

Don’t you ever wish you could explore one of L.A.’s most vibrant boulevards without a car? When the first phase of Metro’s extension to its D Line opens May 8, L.A.’s transit system will add what has long been a missing puzzle piece. A busy, traffic-snarled section of Wilshire Boulevard, home to world-class museums, restaurants and galleries, will at long last be significantly more accessible.

Ride and walk, for instance, to the newly reimagined Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and then stroll to the Original Farmers Market or the acclaimed République. Or take transit to a concert at the El Rey Theatre, then grab a pint at Tom Bergin’s. And do it all without stressing about valet or parking in a part of town where the latter is at a premium.

Though this initial phase of the D Line extension is only three stops, for residents and business owners in the community, it feels monumental.

“I’m so excited for Metro to open and for lots of people to hopefully come and peruse these streets,” says Christina Mullin, owner of Miracle Mile Toys & Gifts. Mullin, who also lives in the neighborhood, has seen the area disrupted by construction for the better part of a decade, and is hopeful the subway stops will bring in an influx of shoppers.

“It’s such a nice, walkable area,” Mullin says. “You can walk all of La Brea and all the way to the Sycamore Kitchen. This will be very good for the city.”

And it seems to be generating much excitement, at least if Metro’s own marketing is any indication. A line of innuendo-filled “Ride the D” shirts went viral and then almost instantaneously sold out. (Those looking for the shirts are likely out of luck, as a Metro spokesperson says the item was intended only as a limited-edition run.)

Here are some highlights of destinations along the new stations, which are located at Wilshire/La Brea, Wilshire/Fairfax, Wilshire/La Cienega and will collectively serve Koreatown, Miracle Mile, Hancock Park, Carthay Circle, the Fairfax District and Beverly Hills. All should be within about a 20- or 25 minute walk.

The second section of the D Line will continue west through Beverly Hills and Century City, and the third will extend to Westwood and UCLA. The full rail line, according to Metro, is expected to be open by the end of 2027.

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Another woman accuses Swalwell of sexual assault; says she was drugged in Beverly Hills in 2018

Another woman came forward Tuesday to describe rape allegations against Rep. Eric Swalwell, who announced his resignation from Congress on Monday amid a torrent of sexual misconduct accusations.

Lonna Drewes said at a news conference called by her attorneys that she was drugged and raped by Swalwell (D-Dublin) in 2018 while she was working as a model in Beverly Hills.

Drewes said she met Swalwell three times as she was growing her fashion software company and toying with the idea of a political career.

On the third occasion, she said, she believed he drugged her glass of wine. She said they were supposed to go to a political event and they stopped by his hotel room to retrieve some paperwork.

She said she found herself incapacitated despite having had only one drink.

“He raped me and he choked me and while he was choking me I lost consciousness and I thought I died,” she said. “I did not consent to any sexual activity.”

Swalwell’s attorney Elias Dabaie did not immediately respond to a call or email requesting comment. Swalwell has previously denied allegations against him, while acknowledging undefined “mistakes.”

Swalwell and his team threatened legal action against several individuals over the claims, Dabaie previously confirmed to The Times.

Lonna Drewes and Eric Swalwell

Lonna Drewes, left, says she met Rep. Eric Swalwell (D-Dublin) on three occasions in Beverly Hills in 2018. She says he sexually assaulted her on the third occasion.

(Myung J Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Drewes said she didn’t undergo a rape kit test, but disclosed the assault to people close to her and described it in her calendar. She did not have contact with Swalwell again, one of her attorneys said.

Drewes said she had no interest in Swalwell romantically and was drawn to his friendship, she said, in part because he touted connections that she believed could help her grow her businesses. She was in a relationship at the time, and he had a pregnant wife, she said.

The alleged rape had a severe impact on her mental health, causing her to self-medicate, she said. She said she also went to therapy sessions at a sexual assault center.

“I did not want to live anymore,” she said. “I cried all the time for years.”

She said she’d been considering a run for Beverly Hills City Council at the time. After the incident, she said, she feared a political backlash and felt like she had no choice but to remain silent.

Lonna Drewes, walking behind her lawyer Arick Fudali

Lonna Drewes walks behind her lawyer Arick Fudali during a news briefing in Beverly Hills on Tuesday.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

“My delay in taking action against Eric was driven by fear, not doubt,” she said. “I have never doubted what happened.”

The L.A. County Sheriffs Department said Tuesday that it is investigating the case.

“The investigation remains in its preliminary stages and is ongoing,” the department said. “Investigators are in the process of gathering information, reviewing available evidence and conducting follow-up inquiries as part of a comprehensive investigative process.“

A spokesperson for the L.A. County district attorney’s office said the Sex Crimes Division had been assigned to work with law enforcement partners in an unfolding investigation.

Arick Fudali, one of the attorneys representing Drewes, said he hoped his client’s account would encourage other women to come forward.

“This is not about Democrat versus Republican,” Fudali said. “This is about accountability versus silence.”

“Lonna deserves what all women deserve — autonomy over her own body,” said attorney Lisa Bloom.

Bloom is well-known for representing high-profile victims of sexual misconduct, including women in cases against actor Bill Cosby and commentator Bill O’Reilly. Bloom said they would be providing text messages, journal entries and photographs to the police. Those include a photo of Drewes and Swalwell at the opening of a restaurant called Avra that was displayed Tuesday for reporters.

Bloom said she wanted to assist with an investigation by the Manhattan district attorney, who has opened a case into allegations against Swalwell. She said three other women have reached out to her.

Swalwell, who has served in the House of Representatives since 2013, has said he plans to fight the “serious, false” allegations made against him.

“However, I must take responsibility and ownership of the mistakes I did make,” Swalwell wrote in a statement Monday.

Bloom called Swalwell’s recent statements about the accusations against him “blather and spin” and a “slap in the face” to victims.

“Stop it,” she said. “Own your behavior.”

Swalwell had been a Democratic front-runner in the hotly contested and crowded race to be California’s next governor. Then in two bombshell reports in the San Francisco Chronicle and CNN on Friday, women accused the congressman of sexual assault and misconduct.

Candidates in the California gubernatorial race reacted to the new allegations with horror.

“The level of my disgust and outrage just continues to grow,” former state Controller Betty Yee told The Times after a business forum in Sacramento. “The fact that this is still being uncovered, that it could be bigger than what we already know?”

Swalwell said he would resign from his congressional seat under intense pressure from lawmakers of both parties. The resignation came on the heels of the House Ethics Committee opening an investigation into the sexual misconduct allegations and bipartisan threats to expel him from the House if he did not resign as women continued to come forward.

One woman told CNN that after messaging with Swalwell about her interest in Democratic politics last year, she met him for drinks and tried to deflect his advances without jeopardizing potential job opportunities. She said she began to feel “really fuzzy” and intoxicated and later found herself in his hotel room with no memory of how she got there.

Another woman, a former staff member who accused Swalwell of rape, told CNN she met him for drinks in 2019, blacked out and awoke naked in his hotel bed and could tell she had had intercourse. She said that in a separate encounter years later, he forced himself on her while she was too intoxicated to consent and despite her protests.

Gov. Gavin Newsom on Tuesday called a special election for Swalwell’s Alameda County seat on June 16, two weeks after the state’s regularly scheduled primary. If no candidate receives 50% of the vote, a second special election will be held on Aug. 18.

The June 2 regular primary and Nov. 3 general election will decide who will represent the recently reconfigured district for the next term, starting in January 2027. The special election decides who will represent the district for the remaining months of Swalwell’s term.

Times staff writers James Queally, Dakota Smith and Seema Mehta contributed to this report.

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