Canary Islands

Canary Islands are ‘collapsing’ but it’s not fussy tourists that are to blame

The Canary Islands are facing an overtourism crisis, with locals protesting over sewage-polluted beaches, soaring housing costs and water shortages following a record 18.4 million visitors

Canary Islands residents are warning that their communities are being pushed to breaking point as record visitor numbers put pressure on housing, water supplies and sewage systems.

“Tourist, go home!”, “Your paradise, our suffering” and “Even the Canarians have their limits” are among the slogans shouted at recent protests against overtourism across the Spanish archipelago.

The islands welcomed a record 18.4 million visitors last year, compared with 15.1 million seven years ago, before the coronavirus pandemic disrupted travel, according to the National Institute of Statistics. That means an extra 3.3 million visitors needing food, water and accommodation in an island chain with 2.2 million permanent residents. In 2009, visitor numbers stood at 10 million.

Development journalist Ava Hughes says the boom is taking a toll on residents and returning holidaymakers alike, reports the Daily Star.

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“Tenerife is currently trapped in a high-volume, low-value cycle that is alienating its most loyal visitors while simultaneously radicalising the local population against the very industry that provides 35% of their GDP,” she said. She described “viral images of high-rise construction looming over crowded beaches” as “symptoms of a systemic failure in the island’s infrastructure”.

“The primary grievance for many returning travellers is the feeling of being ‘sardined’ into a concrete jungle. When a visitor pays thousands of pounds for a sea view and instead spends their week staring at the rusted cranes of a half-finished luxury resort or the back of another tourist’s parasol, the value proposition evaporates. This isn’t a case of ‘fussy’ travellers; it is a rational response to a product that no longer matches its price tag,” Ava added.

The growth in tourism has been accompanied by a major expansion in accommodation. One estimate puts the number of operating hotels across the Canary Islands at 593, with approximately 265,000 tourist beds.

For Daniasa Curbelo, a young activist who grew up in a disadvantaged family in a small rural village in Tenerife, the changes are deeply personal. She remembers a local beach free of holidaymakers, with pristine water. Today, it is crowded for much of the year.

“Because of social media, no place has remained a secret from tourists,” she told IS.

Like many young Canarians, Daniasa cannot afford to rent a home as tourism and the expanding hotel sector push up costs. Meanwhile, water supplies and waste systems are struggling to keep pace with demand. “Sewer pipes are breaking into the sea and beaches are being closed. Our islands are on the verge of collapse,” she said.

In Tenerife alone, Playa de El Médano, Playa del Socorro, Playa Jardín, Playa de Leocadio Machado, La Jaquita and Tabaiba Area Beach have all been closed this year because of sewage contamination in the sea. By one estimate, tourists use six times as much water as locals, adding to pressure on supplies and farms across the islands.

John Dale Beckley, founder of sustainability platform CanaryGreen.org, told Fodor’s: “Tenerife has been under an official water emergency, but honestly, on the ground, we’re not feeling a ‘water emergency’ at all. People are still showering, watering gardens, filling swimming pools, everything as normal.”

Yet tourism remains central to the islands’ economy, directly accounting for 35% to 40% of GDP. For some residents, its continued growth feels unavoidable.

“The bad part is that everything is tourism,” local resident Jorge told Sage. “The neighborhoods—as we see—are being destroyed.”

Canarian authorities have introduced a “Zero Growth” hotel policy restricting new hotel construction licences in an effort to manage expansion. This year’s visitor total is expected to remain broadly in line with 2025, rather than continuing the increases seen in previous years.

Alongside those restrictions, investment is shifting towards more expensive, upmarket holidays. Last year, €1.039 billion was invested in Canarian hotel developments, more than in any other region of Spain. Much of that money has gone towards turning ageing two- and three-star hotels into luxury accommodation.

According to EY Parthenon reports, 44 new hotels and luxury extensions are expected by 2028, adding 6,395 rooms. The developments include a €700 million masterplan in Gran Canaria intended to deliver five new premium hotels over the coming years. As the market moves upmarket, budget accommodation is becoming harder to find. The Hotel Price Index shows room rates rose by 65% in the five years to 2023. More recently, the average hotel room price across the islands increased by 4.3% from 2025 to 2026, reaching €131.94 a night.

Travelling to the islands is also becoming more expensive. Jet kerosene alone now costs roughly €84.60 per passenger each way on typical routes from London airports to Gran Canaria, partly because of the fuel price surge triggered by the US and Israeli invasion of Iran.

Travel publication Fodor’s has placed the Canary Islands on its ‘No List’, highlighting destinations holidaymakers should consider avoiding.

Campaign group Asociación Tinerfeña de Amigos de la Naturaleza has also warned about the pressures facing the archipelago.

“The continuous arrival of new residents—mainly Europeans—worsens overpopulation, environmental degradation, and land occupation, given the islands’ very limited space. Essential resources like water are also being pushed to their limits,” the group said.

“We are losing our identity, culture, and, ultimately, our right to exist as a community. Tourism has become unlimited, mass-oriented, and largely low-cost party tourism that doesn’t come to truly discover the islands, but to consume a fake backdrop.”

The Canary Islands tourist board has been contacted for comment.

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Mum dies in Spain after paramedics try to save her – tragic key details

Need to know

Rachel was on holiday with her husband when everything went terribly wrong

Rachel's husband Mark is devastated

Rachel’s husband Mark is devastated(Image: Jam Press/GoFundMe)

A 42-year-old Brit mum died suddenly in Spain while on holiday – what you need to know

  • A British mum collapsed and died on holiday in Spain despite the best efforts of paramedics to save her life.
  • Rachel Weston, 42, from Bury, Greater Manchester, had been to see a pharmacist about what she thought was just a cold, but her condition later worsened significantly – and she suddenly collapsed in her hotel room in Puerto del Carmen in Lanzarote in the Canary Islands.
  • Local reports said she suffered a cardiac arrest, although no underlying cause has been confirmed. Hotel staff and paramedics tried to save her but tragically she couldn’t be saved.
  • Her husband, Mark, said: “My world was completely turned upside down with the sudden and heartbreaking loss of my gorgeous wife, Rachel.” Rachel was a loving stepmum to his three children and he described her as “the absolute heart of our home”.
  • Mark has launched a fundraiser to help cover funeral costs and has asked mourners to wear purple, Rachel’s favourite colour, at her funeral on November 6.

READ THE FULL STORY: ‘My gorgeous wife died suddenly in Lanzarote – it’s heartbreaking’

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‘My gorgeous wife died suddenly in Lanzarote – it’s heartbreaking’

Rachel felt a little unwell in the Canary Islands hotel they were staying in in October – then suddenly collapsed

A British mum who thought she had come down with a nasty cold collapsed and died while on holiday abroad. Rachel Weston, 42, was away with her husband, Mark, 41, and two friends when she started to feel unwell.

The carer, from Bury, Greater Manchester, went to a pharmacy and at first seemed to be getting better. However, her condition then deteriorated, leading the couple to arrange emergency flights back home for the next day.

But Rachel then suddenly collapsed in their hotel room in Puerto del Carmen, Lanzarote. Hotel lifeguards tried to help before paramedics turned up, but tragically she couldn’t be saved.

Local reports say Rachel suffered a cardiac arrest, though an underlying medical cause hasn’t been publicly confirmed. Mark said: “My world was completely turned upside down with the sudden and heartbreaking loss of my gorgeous wife, Rachel, while we were on holiday.

“Rachel and I were together for 11 years and one day – sadly only married for two of those years, but every single day was full of love, laughter and partnership.”

Rachel was a loving stepmum to Mark’s three children, Steven, 22, Charley, 19, and Mikey, 15. Mark described his late wife as “the absolute heart of our home”, adding that she had poured herself into helping him raise the children.

The couple tied the knot on May 11, 2024 after a memorable on-stage proposal at a Bowling for Soup concert. Mark contacted the band’s frontman, Jaret Reddick, before its December 2022 show in Torquay and was invited on stage during Punk Rock 101 to ask Rachel to marry him.

Rachel worked as a carer at Regency Care Home and had devoted her professional life to looking after others. She was also deeply attached to the couple’s two dogs, Maisie and Padmé. Mark said: “Losing her so unexpectedly is a total nightmare.

“Between planning the funeral and keeping life steady for the kids, it’s a massive weight to carry.” Rachel’s funeral is due to take place on November 6. Mark has launched a fundraiser in memory of his “beautiful wife” to help cover the costs.

He has requested that mourners wear something purple, which was Rachel’s favourite colour. To donate to the fundraiser, visit the GoFundMe web page here.

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Canary Islands’ worst resort crowned – haters say it’s the new Benidorm

A new Which? reader ranking of the Canary Islands’ 15 biggest resorts placed Playa de las Américas in Tenerife at the bottom, with visitors criticising its value for money, tourist attractions, shopping and atmosphere

The worst resort in the Canary Islands has been slammed as unattractive, chaotic and overpriced, with some calling it the ‘new Benidorm’.

One person’s tropical haven is another’s nightmare. Plenty adore Benidorm with its budget Sunday dinners, towering hotels and lively entertainment district, while others would sooner stay home with the curtains drawn than venture to Alicante.

The same applies to Spain’s Canary Islands. A fresh Which? reader survey of the archipelago’s 15 largest resorts positioned a chic, upscale destination at the summit, and a spot notorious for all-night revelry and cut-price pints at the very bottom.

Playa de las Américas in Tenerife has landed at the foot of a Which? reader survey. Visitors criticised the resort’s value for money, tourist attractions, shopping and atmosphere.

Its accommodation performed more favourably, securing four out of five stars. At the opposite end of the rankings, Puerto de Mogán in Gran Canaria seized first place, with acclaim for its food, accommodation and scenery. Which? readers aren’t the first tourists to slate Playa de las Américas. One Mumsnet contributor remembered: “One of the overriding memories was the amount of cockroaches – they were EVERYWHERE.”

Travel guide Wikivoyage also cautions about overcrowding, noting: “The beaches are crowded during all hours of the day.”

Last year, Swedish content creator @amberleigh.travels attracted attention in the Spanish media after drawing comparisons between Tenerife and another well-loved Spanish holiday hotspot.

“I fear that Tenerife is slowly becoming like Benidorm,” she said in a TikTok video that has attracted more than 1.5 million views. She pointed out the abundance of mobility scooters in the resort and the large number of British tourists she came across.

It’s not difficult to understand why so many Brits flock there. EasyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair all operate direct flights from Liverpool John Lennon Airport to Tenerife, with fares starting from as little as £30 this December.

In a recent piece titled ‘the brutal truth behind the Tenerife tourism trap’, journalist Ava Hughes suggested that the issues stretch beyond Playa de las Américas to other areas along the island’s southern coastline.

“For decades, the southern coast of Tenerife-specifically Los Cristianos and Playa de las Américas-operated on a simple promise of sun, sand, and cheap beer. That model required constant expansion to remain profitable. Developers took every available inch of coastline, building upward and outward until the natural charm of the volcanic landscape was buried under layers of asphalt and breeze blocks,” Hughes wrote.

Yet other travel writers maintain that Playa de las Américas delivers precisely what it advertises. Nomad Traveller characterises it as a purpose-built destination created for mass tourism, rather than a peaceful getaway.

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“It does that job well, and on its own terms it delivers hard-to-beat value for sun, sea, and nightlife. But it is not trying to be anywhere else, and understanding that is the key to deciding whether it belongs on your itinerary,” the publication notes.

Which? takes a comparable stance, advising tourists to assess the resort based on its true nature.

“At the risk of sounding like a contrarian, can we suggest that the complaints are misplaced? To moan about budget tourism’s excesses in Playa de las Américas is like complaining that Las Vegas is brash. It’s in the place’s DNA. The resort has never pretended to be anything else since it appeared practically overnight in the late 1960s,” it says.

The consumer group also highlights more peaceful accommodation options and numerous attractions beyond the drinking establishments.

“Avoid Playa de las Américas beach unless you want to watch surfers. There are five other options for a beach towel, including calm Playa del Camisón. Hundreds of rental outfits, tour operators and Siam Park waterpark mean you’re as likely to run out of activities as bar options. It’s not even rowdy if you stay around Camisón beach. The trick to Playa de las Américas is to visit with your eyes open. Who knows, you may have a blast.”

The complete list of the 15 resorts can be found on the Which? website.



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Popular Spanish beaches introduce strict new bans with tourists facing £2,500 fines

BRITS could face hefty fines if caught smoking, or playing loud music at one popular holiday spot.

In some cases, the penalty could be as much as £2,500.

In areas of Tenerife it’s now it’s been banned to smoke on the beach Credit: Getty
It’s also been banned to be disruptive around natural swimming pools Credit: Getty

The area of La Laguna in Tenerife, has approved new rules banning smoking, camping, overnight stays and disruptive music on its beaches and natural swimming pools.

The announcement was made on October 7 and has been put in place to protect the coastline.

Under the new rules, beaches within the areas and natural pools are now smoke-free.

It also stops visitors from leaving rubbish behind including soap and shampoo in public showers.

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Unless there’s a a special permitted event, beachgoers are banned from playing loud music or general noise that disturbs those around them.

The new rules also state that there is a ban on camping and overnight stays on the beaches.

Within the area of La Laguna, the coastal areas where these rules have been enforced include Bajamar, Punta del Hidalgo, Jover and La Barranquera.

While there is a maximum fine of €3,000 (£2,500), it does not apply to every beach.

The amount also depends on the offence with those deemed minor having fines of €300 (£254).

In summer 2026, lots of beaches and hotels in Tenerife put rules in place to stop tourists reserving loungers and sand space with a towel.

Tourists could see their belongings confiscated and be fined up to €3,000.

It comes after strict rules were put in place across Spain for summer 2026.

Fines could be between £254 and £2,500 depending on the severity Credit: Getty



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Jet2 bins popular island holidays with all bookings cancelled after key date

Just six months after the first Jet2 service from Manchester to La Palma in the Canary Islands took off, the airline has scrapped the route due to a lack of demand

Jet2 has cancelled all flights to a popular Spanish island.

Just six months after the first Jet2 service from Manchester to La Palma in the Canary Islands took off, the airline has scrapped the route. Jet2 has been running two weekly services on Monday and Friday for the four-and-a-half-hour journey since April 3.

The airline had planned to launch budget Friday flights to the island from London Stansted on 6 November, but that has now been abandoned. The decision to end the route is due to a lack of customer demand. The last flight between Manchester and La Palma is expected to leave on 30 October.

At the time, Stephen Turner, chief commercial officer at Manchester Airport, said: “We’re proud to connect people in the North with the places they want to fly to, and the Canary Islands is among the most popular holiday destinations for sunseekers travelling from Manchester. That’s why it’s great to see Jet2 adding a fifth destination in this part of the world to its route network here at Manchester.”

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An airline spokesperson confirmed that affected customers would be contacted directly and offered the choice to rebook or receive a full refund. They explained that the decision followed a programme review and assessment of customer demand. As the route concludes on 30 October, most passengers with bookings during the October half-term should remain unaffected.

A spokesperson for Jet2 said: “As a customer-focused business, we continually review our programme in response to what our customers want, and we will make adjustments where required. This gives us the ability to add flights and holidays in response to demand, and very occasionally we may withdraw them too. Following this latest review, we have taken the difficult decision to withdraw flights and holidays to La Palma.

“Where customers are affected, we will contact them or their independent travel agent to let them know their options, which include rebooking another holiday or receiving a full refund. We would of course like to apologise to affected customers, however with a fantastic programme of services to a huge range of destinations, we are offering superb choice when it comes to rebooking their holidays with us.”

TUI is now the only airline running direct flights from the UK to La Palma.

La Palma is the greenest and quietest of the Canary Islands, nicknamed “La Isla Bonita”. It’s popular with walkers and stargazers rather than beach holidaymakers. Volcanic landscapes, banana plantations and lush laurel forests surround the Caldera de Taburiente, a huge crater with excellent hiking trails. The Roque de los Muchachos observatory sits among some of the clearest skies in Europe, and the island is a certified Starlight Reserve. Beaches are mostly black sand. The capital, Santa Cruz de La Palma, has colourful colonial balconies. The 2021 Cumbre Vieja eruption reshaped parts of the south and is still part of the island’s story, but visiting is safe.

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