Neolithic treasures and sparkling seas on Orkney – all for £2 bus fares | Scotland holidays
The views are remarkable. From one window, gorse-gold hills roll west towards mountains patched with snow. On the other side, fields of new spring lambs slope down to a silver sea. Elsewhere, the bus crosses wide estuaries and cascading burns. There are thatched crofts, rocky bays and birch woods starred with anemones. One of the most remarkable things about this scenic 111-mile, 3½-hour trip on bus X99 is that it costs just £2.
Until March 2026, a single from Inverness to Scrabster on Scotland’s north coast was £28. Now, thanks to a new bus fare cap in Orkney, Highland and Moray, no journey in the area costs more than £2. The bus is timed to coincide with the Northlink Ferry to Stromness, Orkney’s second biggest town, and I’m heading there to explore by bus.
The ferry’s dining room serves Orkney smoked-cheddar macaroni cheese and Orkney fudge cheesecake. Afterwards, I stagger out on deck for blustery views of the Old Man of Hoy, its red sandstone glowing in the sunset. Scrabster to Stromness (£22-£26 each way for foot passengers) is the only ferry route that passes this 137-metre-tall sea stack off the coast of Orkney’s most mountainous island. A seal weaves through the waves below, among wide-winged gannets and sleek guillemots.
I’m staying in a little whitewashed cottage called the Shed up the Lane, 10 minutes’ walk from the ferry port and just off paved Victoria Street with its shops and galleries. I can stroll from a flat white in elegant Stromness Coffee to dark island cake at Julia’s Shed via the Pier Arts Centre, a stylish light-filled gallery full of works by Barbara Hepworth, Ben Nicholson and others.
From April to October, bus X1 runs every half an hour, with an hourly service to the neolithic village at Skara Brae. Baby rabbits hop over the fields and sand martins are nesting in the cliffs nearby. You can still see where people slept, ate and kept bone tools on slab-built shelves 5,000 years ago. In summer, a ticket includes Skaill House, a delightful crow-stepped mansion. It was built by a 17th-century bishop, whose great-great-great-great-grandson, William Watt, first rediscovered Skara Brae in 1850 when a violent storm exposed the long-buried stone-age houses.
I get the bus to the Ring of Brodgar (free) and, with no parked car to get back to, hop back on after a two-mile linear walk to the Stones of Stenness (also free). Sandwiched between one salty loch and one freshwater, the area includes an RSPB reserve. I follow a flowering loch-side trail, where redshanks and oystercatchers forage on the shore. Swans are nesting near the Bridge of Brodgar and one pair have built their causeway-nest from seaweed.
Bus X1 heads towards St Margaret’s Hope and I get on, meaning to go all the way. The hour-long journey crosses the Churchill Barriers linking four islands, passing the Italian chapel on Lamb’s Holm, and ends near the Murray Arms, known for its seafood. But it’s beautiful weather outside and already past lunchtime. Another passenger recommends the Loki Seafood Shack, hidden on an industrial estate near Stromness. A few minutes later, I’m sitting in the sunshine eating fresh, hand-dived scallops with chilli jam and griddled hake with red Thai butter. The shack is run by chefs Leigh Gould and Alan Skinner. Leigh explains how the scallops are sustainably harvested by scuba divers, “just like picking potatoes out of a field, except the potatoes are under water”.
Back in Stromness, I walk round the coast with views across sparkling Scapa Flow to Hoy’s volcanic mountains. On the way, Stromness Museum (£7.50/free for kids) is an old-school treasure trove. Exhibits cover 5,000 years, from a rare neolithic figurine to Orcadian poet George Mackay Brown’s rocking chair. There are harpoons and snowshoes, painted chests and carved whalebones. In a glass case of Victorian stuffed birds, I’m finally able to ID the colourful birds I’ve seen hopping around the beaches all day as wheatears.
Puffins, known locally as “tammie norries”, are returning to their nesting places for the summer. The best place on Orkney mainland to see them is around the cliffs in the island’s northwestern corner. Wild Orkney Walks is offering new bus-friendly tours for 2026, including the May-August Seabird City Experience (£40). It’s designed to fit the timetable for bus 8S, which runs close to the RSPB reserve at Marwick Head.
It’s still only April when I visit, so I plan to take bus 8S next morning and walk to Birsay, through the ruins of a 16th-century palace. The only sounds are cows, curlews and crashing waves. Near the village church, there’s an honesty box selling biscuits called fattie cutties and jars of rhubarb chutney. I cross the snaking low-tide causeway to the Brough of Birsay, admire a Viking church and look at the seabirds on the cliffs below the lighthouse. Then I follow the coast, where the turf is springy with budding thrift, clifftops gold with celandines, and fulmars chuckle from rocky nest-ledges. Waiting, near bird-rich Birsay beach, for bus 7 back to Stromness, three puffins fly past in the misty light. At the wood-panelled Ferry Inn, supper is a perfectly cooked slab of chargrilled salmon with green beans, pea shoots, fresh apple and pickled radishes.
With a few hours next day until my ferry, I get the bus to Kirkwall to visit St Magnus Cathedral. On the way, there’s one more prehistoric site: you can only visit Maeshowe chambered cairn on a guided tour via shuttle bus from the visitor centre in Stenness. The grassy banks are sprinkled with violets; inside, there is runic, dagger-carved Viking graffiti. Runes suggest ancient wisdom, but this is loo-door stuff: “Haermund Hardaxe woz ’ere.”
Bus travel means I can end with a drink. Orkney has two huge and centuries-old distilleries: Highland Park and Scapa. The harbourside Orkney Distillery, founded in 2016, is much smaller and has so far produced mostly gin. Their first single malt whisky will be ready in 2027. An engaging tour ends with tasters, after which it’s a four-minute stumble to the bus station. I spend the night, across the water, at Scrabster’s Ferry Inn. My £2 bus next morning is run by Ember (book ahead), the world’s first all-electric, intercity bus company with wifi and charging points.
Back in Inverness, the brand new Inverness Castle Experience (£20), presenting itself as a gateway to the Highlands, involves immersive sound-and-light shows scrolling across the Victorian castle walls. There are soaring eagles, thundering oceans and whispering stag-filled forests, while spectral voices say things like: “It’s a voyage, it’s a pilgrimage, it’s a saga.” Next door, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (free) has an amazing collection of Highland stuff: Caithness glass, a carved Pictish wolf, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s death mask … There’s time to stroll round Ness Islands, and enjoy live music in the Victorian Market’s food hall, before boarding the Caledonian Sleeper (seats from £54, twin cabins from £290). The night train will replace leafy riverside Inverness with grey London towers. But before I sleep, there’s sea bass and a glass of cold white wine as the sun sets over the Cairngorms.
The trip was supported by Visit Scotland with transport provided by Northlink Ferries and Caledonian Sleeper
