A visit to the Fox and Pheasant pub in Fulham left us with a £106 bill for one starter, two mains and five pints – but despite the premium prices, the food was delicious
“They named a ski ride after me in Verbier and turned a phone box into a museum for me in Herefordshire. Your turn.”
That was James Blunt’s witty response to one of the countless mocking tweets and messages the 51-year-old receives weekly, this particular one questioning, ‘What have you ever achieved?’
Since burrowing into the consciousness of every British person with 2005’s hit ‘You’re Beautiful’, the self-described ‘one hit wonder’ has built a thriving reputation for mocking himself. And also, I learned earlier this month in the hospitality trade.
Mr Blunt is among numerous high-profile figures who’ve diversified from their primary profession to venture into the pub industry (my colleague Steffan Rhys recently enjoyed a fantastic afternoon in one of Wales’ rugby icons’ establishments). On the surface, investing in pubs isn’t an entirely logical decision.
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In reality, it’s a dreadful period to be running a pub.
The British Beer and Pub Association calculates that 378 establishments closed in 2025, potentially affecting 5,600 jobs. Before Rachel Reeves reversed her decision on slashing business rate relief for pubs, many faced a 76% increase over the coming three years.
Her reversal has been praised by landlords, though the scope of the tax break remains unclear. As does the outlook for an industry battered from multiple directions, including falling alcohol consumption rates.
Whilst I can’t claim to know the inner workings of the Fox and Pheasant’s balance sheet, I’m reasonably certain this boozer is thriving. On a particularly grim January weekend, right in the heart of dry January, the Fulham establishment was absolutely rammed.
I’d managed to secure the weekend’s final available table on Thursday, with the binding agreement to order at least two mains and cough up £20 if I failed to turn up.
The table itself was squeezed into the corner beside the waiting station, offering far superior views of my fellow punters and the condiment station than it did elbow room. By my rough calculations, the Fox and Pheasant seats around 40 diners.
If everyone spent what we did, then it’s clearly a shrewd investment from Mr Blunt.
My mate and I stumped up £106 for one starter, two mains, and five pints. Perhaps this ought to be anticipated when eating out in one of Britain’s priciest postcodes.
As a visitor to these exclusive parts, the sting of the bill proved difficult to shake off.
“I think £40 less than that feels about fair,” my friend concluded, having clocked up years working in upmarket restaurants throughout central London.
That’s not to suggest the Fox and Pheasant isn’t a cracking pub. That’s beyond question.
The layout proves particularly clever. Stepping in from the gated, private street that Mr Blunt has inhabited for more than 15 years, visitors are greeted by a tastefully presented facade complete with expertly refurbished signage, hanging flower baskets, and emerald wall tiles.
The front portion of the premises houses the double-sided bar and drinking space. It’s a vibrant, intimate spot to take refuge on a bitter winter’s night, especially if you manage to snag a seat beside the crackling fire.
Most of the dining takes place in a spacious room towards the rear – a shrewd decision that maintains the traditional pub atmosphere at the front. The dining space is bright and attractive, topped with a conservatory-style roof and climbing foliage adorning the walls.
Mindful of costs, we opted to share a starter of celeriac tartare accompanied by tomato relish, hazelnut cream, and horseradish. “Is it just me or does this taste like they’ve dunked celeriac bits in a tin of baked beans?” queried my companion, a seasoned baked bean connoisseur.
The main course delivered considerably more impact. I chose a Roquefort and walnut salad with chips, whilst my friend selected a chicken, chorizo, and mushroom pie served with creamed leeks, alongside an impeccable Mr Whippy-style swirl of mashed potatoes.
Ordering a pie from a pub is, as we all know, a risky business. Too often, I’ve found myself delving into the crust only to discover it’s merely a lid.
While I sympathise with the hard-pressed publican, a bit more pastry isn’t going to break the bank. Mr Blunt’s team didn’t skimp on the pastry, but the pie’s lack of depth was truly startling.
At its deepest, it measured a mere 6cm.
That said, the flavours were delightful, the service swift and the atmosphere in the restaurant was pleasant. There’s something rather appealing about dining amongst towering finance men and impeccably attired women.
However, while achieving such stature might require protein-rich meals, the limited vegetarian options beyond salads were somewhat disappointing.
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The absence of the pub’s owner was also a letdown. Online rumours suggest that Mr Blunt frequents the pub and, according to public opinion, he has done well managing the Fox and Pheasant since rescuing it from conversion into flats in 2018.
The only nod to the 23 million album-selling singer was found in the cocktail menu. Had my Reach PLC expense allowance not already been depleted, I would have discovered if the ‘You’re Beautiful’ cocktail is as successful as its namesake.
The Fox and Pheasant is nice but, all things considered, my verdict is simple: too expensive.
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