‘We have lammerullepøllse – lamb rolled sausage – today,” says Daniel Hesseldal-Haines, chef at Det Lille Sommerhotel on the Danish island of Samsø. “It tastes better than the translation sounds. And,” he gestures towards a woman sitting by the window, “the lamb is from Camilla’s farm.”
Camilla gives us a friendly wave, and my eyes fix upon her sweater, featuring row upon row of colourful motifs. Think Fair Isle but less orderly: each stripe holds a different design. “Oh, I made this,” she says. “It’s hønsestrik – chicken knitting. You can use it to tell your story – so this one is about hiking,” she adds, pointing to each section: “These are my footprints, this is my tent, my coffee flask …”
Samsø, just 43 sq miles (112 sq km), lies off the coast of the Jutland peninsula, an hour’s ferry ride from Aarhus, and is something of a poster child for sustainability and the good life, being known as “Denmark’s vegetable garden” because of its fertile soil and beneficial climate. It’s been energy-positive since 2007, thanks to community buy-in to initiatives including windfarm ownership and biomass heating systems powered by agricultural waste. The aim is to be completely fossil fuel-free by 2030 – two decades ahead of Denmark’s goal of carbon-neutrality by 2050.
One of the beaches that draws mainlanders and many other tourists to Samsø.
Centuries ago, Samsø was a site of strategic importance during the Viking age: the Kanhave canal, hand-hewn through its narrowest point to facilitate maritime passage, is testament to that. But for many Danes, Samsø is simply a summer holiday destination – not only because of its reliable sunshine, but also because of its beaches, Guinness World Records-certified world’s largest maze and protected northern hills. For almost 100 years, mainlanders’ families have owned summerhouses here and, during the warmer months, the population of about 3,500 inhabitants swells, with visitors numbering more than 300,000.
My visit is in early spring and Det Lille Sommerhotel, in the busy harbour village of Ballen, is my base. Run by Daniel and his wife Lea, who took it over from her mother five years ago, its cosy, seaside theme fits its location perfectly. Spring is a great time to visit – the island is just beginning to wake up. Small groups of walkers pace the lanes. Crops are being harvested, and honesty boxes full of leeks and onions are set up outside homes. Everywhere, hedges and trees are studded with tight green buds on the brink of unfurling.
I head out in the spring sunshine to meet Aage Madsen, the owner of Samsø Bær, on the north-east coast. He makes juices, jams, oils and liqueurs from the island’s natural bounty (the schnapps even comes from the plumules from the birch tree in his back garden). You can tour the factory’s premises with tastings included, as well as stocking up on products to take home, and like many businesses on the island, there’s an honesty system with mobile-pay in place when the shop is unattended.
Great views are to be had from the island’s striking white lighthouse, Vesborg Fyr. Photograph: mauritius images GmbH/Alamy
Over a coffee in Aage’s kitchen, I recognise the work of Samsø potter Sigrid Hovmand on the shelf; the previous day I had spent time in her Nordby studio (open year round by appointment), learning about how she shapes her hand-thrown ceramics into irresistibly tactile, organic yet practical forms.
Even in the warmth of summer, temperatures rarely crack 22C, but springtime sunshine makes a perfectly respectable 15C seem quite balmy. It’s ideal weather for hiking and biking – two of the best ways to explore – and indeed, Samsø is set up for both, with myriad routes to tackle on foot, plus multiple cycling routes and rental stores. Peaceful country roads take me on a leisurely cycle from Ballen to Vesborg Fyr, a striking white lighthouse built in 1858 on the island’s south-western point. When I climb the coiled staircase to the top, the views in every direction are wonderful: breeze-ruffled fields, sparkling sea and the lazy cartwheeling of wind turbines. Only occasionally do I spot a vehicle purring through the landscape. Indeed, there’s not a single traffic light on the island – although there are a lot of electric charging points, most in Tranebjerg, Samsø’s “big city” – a relative term, but where the tourist office, hospital and supermarket are located.
Sams Island Distillery, where locally sourced produce is used – including ants.
It’s also the site of Sams Island Distillery. Established in 2017 by Mads Nielsen and a former business partner, the brand prides itself on sourcing its ingredients locally. Mads even grows his own beets to provide the “sugar” for his rum, creates small-batch liqueurs with seasonal berries and hunts Lasius fuliginosus – ants with a citrusy secretion in their abdomen – to give his gin a lemony kick. We venture into the woods and he shows me his gathering ground: here, inspired by the of ants in Copenhagen’s former restaurant Noma’s botan ebi (jumbo shrimp dish), he spent months crawling around in search of them.
Before I leave, I hike out along the Besser Rev spit. At 3 miles (5km), it’s an overground reef, formed of glacial marine deposits and forming a narrow, stony path, tufted with scrubby, low-lying vegetation. Brushed on its western side by the shallow waters of Stavns fjord, and by the stronger currents of the Kattegat Sea on the east, passage is sometimes denied by tidal activity. Although I’ve timed my walk carefully, I’m prevented from reaching the reef’s final stretches by signs forbidding access from 1 April until 15 July: it’s nesting season and this area is a vital breeding ground for sea birds. My progress thwarted, I’m content to sit on the sand by the adgang forbudt sign with my face tilted towards the gentle sun, listening to the sounds of nature and contemplating Googling “properties for sale on Samsø”.
This top destination combines a great European city break with stunning nature trails through parks, woodlands and historic districts
This city has hundreds of walking trails(Image: Getty)
Summer holidays are fast approaching, yet countless travellers return home feeling utterly drained, having crammed far too much into their getaway. If you’re weary of needing a break to recover from your break, perhaps it’s time to embrace the slow travel movement.
One of the finest ways to adopt slow travel is by selecting destinations that promote rest and reconnection with the natural world, making walking holidays a superb option.
Dave Mills, Chief Commercial Officer at Iglu Cruise said: “Walking holidays offer flexibility and adventure, teaching travellers to enjoy the present moment and savour their travel experiences. You can still see the sights, but a more leisurely pace can offer a more rewarding trip.”
To assist travellers in striking the ideal balance, travel specialists from Iglu have put together a list of the finest European city breaks that also feature genuinely stunning walking trails.
They examined data from the outdoor app AllTrails to pinpoint cities boasting the greatest number of walking routes within a 15-minute radius of the city centre.
One of the finest spots to immerse yourself in nature while still making the most of your city break is Vienna in Austria.
Celebrated for its natural splendour, the city offers 250 walking trails and 12 official hiking routes, all readily accessible via public transport.
These 12 paths are conveniently numbered, making them simple to locate. For those seeking stunning vistas and a relaxing glass of wine, City Hiking Trail 1 is ideal. Beginning in Kahlenberg, this seven-mile route offers sweeping views of the Danube River.
The path meanders through expansive vineyards — some of which feature pop-up stalls where visitors can sample a glass.
Another favourite is City Hiking Trail 9, which threads through verdant woodlands and meadows before leading walkers along the boulevard in Leopoldstadt, where numerous cafés offer the perfect spot for a delightful snack or meal.
City Hiking Trail 5 is also highly regarded, situated in Floridsdorf. This route is beloved by locals and lies away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre. Stretching six miles, it showcases open fields and abundant wildlife, including deer.
One visitor wrote on Tripadvisor: “We just returned from a week in Vienna. Absolutely magical city. It looks like a city of fairy tales. I think it’s more beautiful than Paris, and Prague. Gorgeous. It’s clean and well-kept, and there is an incredible amount of beautiful architecture and art. Trip of a lifetime.”
