Travel Desk

‘Vibrant, design-led and surprisingly green’: why the Dutch city of Eindhoven is perfect for a relaxed arty break | City breaks

A baggily clad skateboarder’s wheels clatter across concrete floors, the noise bouncing off exposed pipes and iron girders. Vaulted skylights set in high ceilings illuminate the industrial space and its central kitchen, from which my main course – a silky lemon risotto, spiked with samphire, rhubarb, garlic, baby onions and basil – has just been transported.

I’m in the Dutch city of Eindhoven, in North Brabant, famous for its historic connection to Philips, the one-time electronics giant. The restaurant, Radio Royaal, is housed in what was once their engine room, in the Strijp-S neighbourhood. Today, Strijp-S buzzes with concept stores, an indoor food market, MU Hybrid Art House and the Area 51 skatepark. The broader area, Strijp, was where the company was largely headquartered: its zones are named S, T and R. In the late 90s, Philips withdrew from the city where it had started in 1891, and the letters I, J and P were never assigned.

Philips had employed about half of the region’s working population, so its departure for Amsterdam inevitably left a huge hole. Fortunately for Eindhoven, this was short-lived, and within a decade the city had reinvented itself as a multicultural hub for design and innovation – so much so that Dutch Design Week, the largest event of its kind in northern Europe, has been held here since 2005.

The innovative Trudo Tower is adorned with greenery. Photograph: Pixelbiss/Alamy

This year’s iteration, from 17 to 25 October, has a jam-packed programme of exhibitions, workshops and seminars at more than 100 locations around the city, with thousands of local and international designers involved. About 350,000 visitors are expected, with displays spanning everything from a bar made from mushrooms to the manipulation of Dutch wool (which is coarser than other wools, such as merino) for wearable garments.

Well beyond Design Week, however, Eindhoven packs a punch in terms of creativity. On my visit, I discovered a city that is not only vibrant and design-led, but also surprisingly green.

Completely off-limits during Philips’ heyday, Strijp-S is perhaps the liveliest example of Eindhoven’s reinvention, with innovative businesses making the most of the industrial spaces. It’s distinguished, too, by the Trudo Tower, a 19-storey building where facade planters froth with more than 70 species of greenery. Purpose-built in 2020, these eye-catching apartments were designed to provide affordable housing for low-income residents.

Despite the city’s industrial past, about 40% of Eindhoven’s landscape comprises greenery. Walkways – complete with bat boxes – run alongside the Dommel river, while larger spaces, such as Karpendonkse Plas and Philips de Jongh park, provide walking and biking opportunities. This, plus an average commute time of 15 minutes, helps to explain why Eindhoven was named the world’s least stressed city last year.

Evoluon exhibition and conference space. Photograph: Bildagentur/Joko/Alamy

As you walk from the UFO-shaped Evoluon (now functioning as an exhibition space and conference centre, and given by the company to the city on its 75th anniversary) on the edge of the Het Ven neighbourhood towards Strijp-R, the area becomes both green and residential. Ahead of the times, Philips saw the correlation between nature and healthy, happy employees. As early as 1910, the company started building workers’ accommodation with large gardens, which today are a mix of social and private housing.

Strijp-R’s primary allure, however, is the RK Complex. Formerly a Philips ceramics factory, it was bought by renowned Dutch designer Piet Hein Eek and opened in 2010. Other designers have workshops here, too: the idea, said Hein Eek, was to give young creatives an affordable space to work. The concept obviously works: in more than 15 years, only five of the 25 studios have changed hands.

Designer Piet Hein Eek’s studio. Photograph: Nick Bookelaar

Visitors flock here year-round to check out Hein Eek’s eco-forward scrap wood furniture and for glimpses into the studios, the cavernous exhibition space and the shop, packed with smaller design objects – ceramics, books, jewellery. The onsite Green Restaurant favours local, seasonal ingredients in hearty portions; it’s attached to the boutique Piet Hein Eek hotel, also one of the designer’s innovations. It has 14 rooms, each featuring a distinctive design style, with doubles from €135.

What makes a stay in Eindhoven even more interesting, however, are the myriad ways this impulse towards repurposing spaces, reusing materials and thinking sustainably shapes the visitor experience. I stayed at Hotel Mariënhge (doubles from €83) in the centre, a former monastery characterised by clean lines and cheeky art, its interiors effortlessly blending old and new.

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From here, it’s a short walk to the retail district, where vintage stores range from the highly curated Yatva Vintage to a Salvation Army ReShare store. Near Strijp-R, I happen upon Luna & Lore, owned and run by Luna Hartogs. “Lore is about wisdom passed on from previous generations, and I learned to sew from my grandmother,” she explains, as I rifle delightedly through rails of upcycled vintage clothing. “For me, it’s also about passing things on for people to enjoy.”

“Eindhoven gets called ‘Vintage Valhalla’ – a paradise,” Erik van Gerwen of Eindhoven 365 tells me over dinner at Fifth NRE, itself housed in a former gas factory. “There’s the Philips legacy, but the presence of the Design Academy also ensures a lively community, passionate about innovatively making use of what already exists.”

Berenkuil graffiti zone. Photograph: Nick Bookelaar

Creating opportunities is a recurring theme in Eindhoven. I see it again at New Order of Fashion, a nonprofit organisation providing makers with resources to experiment with, as well as a sellers’ platform. It’s also a lab, researching the future of fashion from a regenerative perspective, and a public space aiming to inspire visitors to think about their consumer choices.

I loiter outside the Muziekgebouw concert hall: since 2024, its facade has featured a massive mural of a street musician and classical concert violinist embracing. Named Echoes of Harmony, it was commissioned by Eindhoven city council to represent music’s ability to bridge barriers, and since named best mural worldwide by Street Art Cities.

On the city’s north-eastern edge, graffers can legally unleash spray cans in Berenkuil, a two-level roundabout and now the country’s largest open-air graffiti zone. Ramps and rails make it a beeline for skateboarders, too; again, I hear wheels grinding on concrete. There are no dibs here: the art lasts mere days before it’s sprayed over by someone else, but that, I’m told, is the point. In Eindhoven, perhaps more than anywhere else, the idea that everything is ephemeral, yet also renewable, seems entirely at home.

The trip was provided by the Netherlands Board of Tourism and Conventions

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Europe’s ‘hidden gem’ ski resort where a five-day holiday costs less than you think

Ski holidays have gathered a reputation for being some of the most expensive getaways, but how much will a weekend on the slopes really set you back? Oliver Radcliffe went to find out

The truth about how much a ski holiday can really cost – is it just for the elites?

Ski holidays have a reputation for being on the pricey side. The very pricey side. Holidays to the Alps are increasingly thought of as a reserve for only the richest, as the Mirror’s trip to Megeve last year highlighted. But it doesn’t have to be. A day on the slopes in Austria’s Gastein Valley might not be as expensive as those new to the mountainside life may think (although it’s certainly all relative).

Spread across the trio of resorts of Bad Gastein, Bad Hofgastein, and Dorfgastein, the valley forms part of the region of SalzburgerLand, one of the lesser-known alpine destinations. Yet compared with some of Europe’s biggest-name resorts, the cost of skiing here remains reasonable.

While a local dry slope can offer a cost-effective start for beginners, nothing beats real snow for the authentic experience. A trip to the Angertal ski school could be the perfect place to build your skills and get you able to take on the slopes.

One really handy feature of the region is its Guest Mobility Ticket, which provides free public transport throughout the entire region.

So what does a realistic day on the mountains actually cost?

Do you have a travel story to tell? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

The lift pass

The biggest hidden expense for any skier is the lift pass. This is your ticket to the mountain’s ski lifts and gondolas, which transport you to the top of the slopes so you can ski down. Without a valid pass, you won’t be able to ride the lifts. Passes can range from single-day tickets to multi-day, weekly, or even season-long access, with prices varying widely.

In the Gastein ski area, a one-day adult ticket costs €69.50 (~£59). A six-day pass costs €344.50 (~£293), which works out at around €57.40 (~£49) per day, so staying for a few days noticeably reduces the daily cost.

The pass gives access to the main Schlossalm–Stubnerkogel ski area linking Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein, as well as the higher-altitude Sportgastein sector.

Ski hire

If you’re not travelling with your own equipment, rental is the next major cost. At the Angertal Skizentrum in Bad Hofgastein, a day’s rental starts from around €26 (£22) for skis and poles and €14 (£12) for boots.

For weekly rentals, expect to spend around €129 (£110) for skis and €65 (£55) for boots. Snowboard rental is priced similarly.

Ski lessons

For beginners, learning can also be the most expensive part. A three-day beginner’s course can set you back around €294 (£250), including 12 hours of lessons with a dedicated instructor.

Lunch on the mountain

Food prices in the mountains are slightly higher than at your local spot, but Austrian mountain huts are usually gentler on the wallet than some French mega-resorts.

A typical slope-side lunch might include €10–€15 (£8.50–£13) for dishes such as goulash soup or Tiroler gröstl, another €6 (£5) for a drink or coffee, and another €7 (£6) for a slice of strudel. Kaiserschmarrn, the sweetened shredded pancake, costs a little more at around €15 (£13)but it will keep you full well into the evening.

Altogether, €15–€25 (£13–£21) is a realistic spend for lunch and an espresso on the mountain.

One recommendation after a day on the slopes of Bad Hofgastein is the brand new Hirsch und Maus, perched at the mountain peak. A traditional Wiener Schnitzel costs the equivalent of €21 (£18). For those fed up with beige carbs, a Caesar salad is around €19 (£16).

Après ski

Après ski is a key part of the skiing experience, but it can be expensive. After a day on the nursery slopes, a half litre of the local Salzburg brew, Stiegl, costs the equivalent of €6 (£5.30) at the trendy Angertal 1180.

That overall figure can drop if you book lift tickets early, bring your own gear, or choose shorter passes such as half-day tickets. Skiing will never be a budget activity, but not every resort caters only to those on six figures, where single-day lift passes often exceed €80–€90 (~£68–£77).

After the lifts close, many skiers swap their boots for bathrobes and head to the valley’s famous thermal spas, soaking tired legs in steaming mineral waters surrounded by snow.

Accommodation

A classic double room at Hotel Zum Stern costs €294 (~£250) per room per night. Shared between two people, that’s about €147 (~£125) each per night.

Five-day holiday estimate (per person)

Based on the assumption that you’d buy a lift pass for each of the five days of a five-day ski holiday, hire skis and boots for the week, and each day have a mountain lunch, a Schnitzel-style dinner, and one beer Apres ski, this is how much you could expect to spend.

  • Lift pass, 5 days: €66–78.50 a day, €330–392 (£280–335) a week
  • Ski and boot hire, weekly: €194 (£165)
  • Lunch, 5 days: €15–25/day, €75–125 (£65–105) a week
  • Dinner, 5 days: £16–18/day, €94–106 (£80–90) a week
  • One beer a day, 5 days: €31 (£26.50)
  • Accommodation, 5 nights: €1,470 per room, halved to €735 (£625)

Total (no lessons): €1,474–1,536 (£1,255–1,305)

  • Optional 3-day beginners course: ~€294 (£250)

Total with lessons: €1,768–1,830 (£1,505–1,555)

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Mum vows never to holiday abroad again after receiving £28,000 bill

A British couple were left with a massive £28,000 bill while holidaying in a beautiful Greek island

A mother has said she will never go abroad on holiday again after being handed a £28,000 bill. Diane Steadman, 61, was on holiday on the Greek island of Skiathos on September 11 when disaster struck.

To get between the beaches on their £2,200 holiday, Diane and partner Mick Raftery had used quadbikes they’d rented. However, during one short journey between two beaches, the pair claim they were hit by a local car.

The impact from the rear sent both Diane and Mick flying off the road. While Mick came away with a few cuts and bruises, Diane landed heavily, breaking two vertebrae in her back. Diane recalled: “I felt a jump in my back and I don’t remember anything else.”

She added: “All I remember is waking up on the road. He [the car diver] wasn’t watching the road and didn’t have time to slow down. I was in and out of consciousness, I didn’t have the energy to speak to anybody when I woke up. I tried to be strong but I’m so frightened, I feel like I’m going to die.

After being moved by ambulance to a local medical centre Diane, a mother-of-two, was rushed to the mainland for further treatment, all under the belief the whole incident would be covered by her travel insurance.

However, she was shocked to find out that quadbikes weren’t covered by her policy.

What’s more, although she was under intense pain relief, she was unable to afford a £40,000 operation, so had to borrow a massive £28,000 to fly back to the UK via air ambulance on September 30.

As she waits for an operation to fix her back, Diane has paid tribute to her partner but also admitted she does not intend to go abroad again.

She said: “It’s just been one thing after another, I will not be going abroad again, no way. Mick has been brave and tried to put a smile on my face. I’m scared of the operation, everyone is telling me it’s going to be okay.”

Meanwhile Mick has issued a warning of his own pleading with people to make sure they check the small print of their insurance policies so they know what is and isn’t covered to avoid something similar happening to him and Diane.

He added: “Check your insurance before you rent a quad bike. We were mistaken in thinking insurance covered quad bikes too.”

As well as asking people to check their policies, Mick has also set up a GoFundMe to help him and Diane cover some of their costs following the disaster.

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I paid £18 for fish and chips in iconic seaside town and only needed 2 words to sum it up

A former Michelin-starred chef has reopened a well-known chippy as part of his Salt and Malt restaurant and takeaway chain

Few foods are as quintessentially British as fish and chips. From seaside holidays to Friday night takeaways, the humble dish has become a much-loved part of life in the UK.

But the classic pairing of crispy battered fish and golden chips is actually more than a century old. Fried fish and potatoes were eaten separately before the two came together in the late 19th century, with English Heritage dating the combination to towards the end of the 1800s.

It wasn’t long before fish and chips became synonymous with a day at the seaside. This is where Reach’s reporter Mark David Taylor went to visit one iconic seaside for a day trip and to try some fish and chips.

Former Michelin-starred chef Josh Eggleton took over the much-loved seafront chippy after more than 20 years in business, transforming it into one of his Salt & Malt restaurant and takeaway outlets within just a few weeks.

And it appears to have struck a chord with locals straight away – by 6pm on the glorious summer Saturday of Mark’s visit, there was already a queue for tables inside the Weston-super-Mare restaurant, with an even lengthier one snaking outside for takeaways.

Boasting blue-tiled frontage, black and white ‘chessboard’ floor tiles and ribbed glass partitions between booths, this gleaming new Salt and Malt bears a striking resemblance to existing branches, giving the impression that Eggleton is eyeing up further seaside locations. And rightly so, as this upmarket fish and chip concept is absolutely crying out for wider expansion, reports Wales Online.

Featuring sustainably sourced North Atlantic fish, gluten-free chips and daily specials – on this occasion, Cornish Mounts Bay sardines with toasted sourdough, salad and pickles – it’s undeniably a ‘posh’ chippy, yet Eggleton has been mindful not to price out everyday seaside visitors.

Takeaway prices remain reasonably competitive with most seafront chippies – small cod and chips is £12.50, battered sausages are £2.40 and the kids’ meals are £7, chips in a cone at £2 and a large chip box for £5.60.

Inside the restaurant, prices are naturally higher, with battered haddock and chips with buttered crushed garden peas coming in at £19, and a homemade fishcake with cod, haddock, lemon, dill and parsley priced at £14.50.

The children’s menu (for ages 16 and under) in the restaurant is a reasonable £7.50, offering battered fish, sausage, chicken chunks, scampi and halloumi, all served with chips and a choice of peas, baked beans, carrots or cucumber.

Yet it’s the inventive touches and alternatives that sets Salt and Malt apart from your typical seaside chippy.

Alongside gluten-free batter as standard, diners can opt to have their cod or haddock baked in garlic butter rather than battered – perhaps the healthier choice for those craving a ‘beach body’ this summer.

For those less concerned about such matters, free chip refills are also on offer, though the portions are hearty enough that you may not need them.

Mark and his plus one sampled the cod and chips (£18) and the curried cod burger (£16.50), and neither disappointed. The cod was wrapped in crisp, golden batter, with large, moist and succulent flakes of fish inside, accompanied by a generous serving of buttery crushed peas.

Granted, £18 is above average for fish and chips, but this was a superb rendition of the great British seaside staple and well worth every penny. Nestled in a soft brioche bun, the curried cod burger featured a generous portion of lightly battered fish with a subtle curry sauce flavour, accompanied by tartare sauce, coleslaw and pickled red cabbage.

The chips were perfectly cooked – crispy on the outside, fluffy within, and completely grease-free.

Essentially, the dish brought together all the finest elements of a traditional seaside chippy – fish and chips, a bread roll, curry sauce and classic burger toppings – and the combination was nothing short of brilliant. If summed up in just two words, they’d be “top drawer”.

Traditional chippy favourites paired with stunning coastal views – what more could anyone ask for?

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