Pinny on, hands dusted with flour, I rolled out dough, cut it into circles, added a spoonful of filling and sealed it into little parcels. I was getting stuck into a dumpling cooking class in one of the most vegan-friendly cities in the world. Making gyoza in Tokyo, perhaps? Wontons in Singapore? Potstickers in Taipei?
In fact, I was preparing pierogi in Warsaw. Friends who associate Polish cuisine with stews and sausages were surprised to hear it, but vegan food has proliferated across the country over the past 20 years. Happy Cow, the veteran vegan restaurant guide, now consistently ranks Warsaw in its top cities globally – last year it was in 11th place, ahead of Bangkok, San Francisco and Copenhagen.
Poland may be best known for its meat dishes, but fungi and vegetables such as potatoes, cabbage, beetroot and cucumbers have long been central to its food culture. Agnieszka Skrodzka, a Warsaw tour guide specialising in plant-based food, says it is far easier to avoid meat than mushrooms – as she found out when she recently developed a mushroom allergy. As Karol Adamiak, a chef from Warsaw, wrote in the Guardian last year: “Veganism represents a return to Poland’s peasant roots, and a more conscious and healthy way of eating.”
I was inspired to visit Poland after I wrote about holidaying as a vegan last summer, and several readers recommended the country. One sang the praises of Gdansk, and I was also tempted by Krakow, but Happy Cow’s findings were hard to argue with: Warsaw has an impressive 34 vegan restaurants, rising to 80 if you include vegetarian restaurants with vegan options, and another 200-odd “vegan-friendly” places.
Challenge accepted: my sister and I set about eating as much as humanly possible in three days. We started with vegan versions of traditional Polish dishes, including huge plates of pierogi with spinach and tofu (£7) and potato pancakes with crispy oyster mushrooms (£8) at Vege Miasto, the oldest vegan restaurant in the city. Comfort food such as soy schnitzel with mash and beetroot (£8) at Veganda, and Silesian potato dumplings with soy meat, gravy and fried onions (£8) at Lokal Vegan Bistro, helped us cope with the bitter cold of a Warsaw winter.
Then we went global. First, a colourful meze platter for two (£17.50) at Falla, a Middle Eastern-inspired restaurant that also has branches in Gdynia, Poznań, Wrocław and Katowice. Next, brimming bowls of noodle soup (£10) at Vegan Ramen Shop, which has three outlets across the city. Our favourite variety was the tan-tan men: a creamy, spicy broth made from tahini, chilli oil, black vinegar and Sichuan peppercorns. We also scoffed a mound of spaghetti “carbonara” with vegan bacon and artichokes (£8) at Lokal, and a classic crispy tofu burger (£9) at Veganda. Finally, we squeezed in brunch at Bistro Jaskółka – I sampled shakshuka with tofu scramble and my sister heroically worked her way through the fry-up (both about £7).
There were many other highly recommended restaurants we simply couldn’t fit in, either due to our schedule or our bellies – I was particularly disappointed not to try a platter of plant-based sushi at Vegan Sushi Bar.
Even our hotel, Puro Stare Miasto, had three vegan dishes on the a la carte breakfast menu; I loved the porridge with forest fruit compote, olive oil and herbs. This Scandi-style hotel group (at Polish prices) has branches in Warsaw, Gdańsk, Kraków, Łódź, Poznań and Wrocław, plus Budapest and Prague.
To work up an appetite for our next meal, which was never far away, we walked all over the city: through the charming Old and New Towns, along the Royal Route, up to the 30th-floor viewing platform of the Stalinist Palace of Culture and Science (in the lift, admittedly), and around lovely Royal Łazienki Park. We visited some revitalised former industrial spaces, such as the Norblin Factory and the Warsaw Brewery, now full of cafes, restaurants and shops. At the Museum of Modern Art, we saw a fascinating exhibition called The Woman Question, featuring 150 female artists from Artemisia Gentileschi to Cindy Sherman (until 3 May).
And, of course, we learned to make our own pierogi. Pierogi & More runs cooking classes that cater to all; our group consisted of us two vegans, three vegetarians and five meat-eaters. We all made a simple flour and water dough, then added our own fillings: the vegan ones contained mashed potato and beans, and chickpeas and lentils, with various herbs and spices. The most challenging part, and the most satisfying, was attempting different ways of sealing and folding them. We started with classic half-moons with crimped edges, and moved on to more complex shapes, such as mini cornish pasties with a pleated “crust”, and ring-shaped tortellini.
The only potential downside was the communal taste-test afterwards: as every vegan knows, everyone wants to try yours, but you can’t try theirs. In our case, it was for the best: this was just elevenses and we had lunch scheduled afterwards. The couple of pierogi I did gulp down, topped with slow-cooked onions, were delicious.
Is Warsaw really one of the most vegan-friendly cities in the world? In my brief experience, yes – and I live in the top-ranked city (London) and have visited seven of the top 10. The food is also far more affordable than in most of the other highly rated cities.
By the end of our vegan eating odyssey, much like the dumplings, we were stuffed. But in for a penny … We grabbed a takeout box of pastries from Baja, a vegan patisserie, to sustain us on the journey home. It turns out there’s always room for a Lotus Biscoff doughnut.
The trip was provided by the Warsaw Tourism Office. Doubles at Puro Stare Miasto from about £85 (413 złoty)