Yorkshire

I have always longed to go to Yorkshire.

I was 10 when I first read “All Creatures Great and Small,” devouring each subsequent book that Alf Wight, under the pen name James Herriot, wrote about life as a veterinarian in his beloved Yorkshire Dales. I was a bit older when I encountered Bram Stoker’s “Dracula,” which opens in the seaside town of Whitby, where cliffs overlook the sea in which the ill-fated ship Demeter meets its end. In my teens, I discovered the wild moors and ancient halls of “Jane Eyre” and “Wuthering Heights.” More recently, I have been entranced by the work of Sally Wainwright, whose string of critically acclaimed series — ”Last Tango in Halifax,” “Happy Valley,” “Gentleman Jack” and “Riot Women” — have made her the modern bard of Yorkshire, England.

So when a friend, planning a visit to her daughter at Durham University, proposed I join her for a side trip of our own, I jumped at the chance to travel to a land I knew only through the eyes of others.

The Dales of James Herriot

In mid-April, I joined my friend Nancy in York, a city often mentioned in Yorkshire-based literature. On a sunny Saturday, we took a train to Thirsk, where Herriot, alongside Donald and Brian Sinclair (known in the books as Siegfried and Tristan Farnon) lived and worked in “Skeldale House,” now the World of James Herriot museum.

Lambing season in North Yorkshire.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

The city sprawl quickly gave way to stone-walled fields full of dazzling yellow rape and spring-green grass dotted with sheep and frolicking lambs. April is lambing season, the perfect time to visit Herriot Country. “All young animals are appealing,” he wrote, “but the lamb has been given an unfair share of charm.”

Situated between the North York Moors and Yorkshire Dales national parks, Thirsk (known as Darrowby in the Herriot books) is a market town, organized around a great open plaza in which stands a clock tower that on this day was decorated with rather splendid floral creations by the Thirsk Yarnbombers, in celebration of its 10th anniversary.

Even so, it looks much as it must have when Herriot lived here — modern businesses housed in medieval and Georgian buildings. Surely the Ritz Cinema is the theater Herriot describes as he begins his courtship of Helen Alderson; a blue circle marker proudly declares its date of establishment as a picture house, 1912.

The entrance to the World of James Herriot in Thirsk, North Yorkshire.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

The World of James Herriot museum is a sudden splash of crimson and white signage on an otherwise ordinary, albeit charming, street; at the far end stands St. Mary’s Church, where Herriot married his actual wife, Joan Anderson. When we visited the church later that afternoon, they were cleaning up from a community tea and I spoke with a woman who remembered Herriot and especially his son Jim and daughter Rosie, who were the town vet and doctor, respectively, for many years.

The museum, on the first floor, is a re-creation of “Skeldale House,” down to the pint pot in which Siegfried kept the petty cash and the old central telephone. There’s a display documenting the evolution of the books — originally printed in the UK, beginning in 1972, under different names, until a struggling St. Martin’s Press published two of them with the title “All Creatures Great and Small” and helped turn Herriot into a franchise.

The old central telephone at the World of James Herriot museum in Thirsk.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

Various outbuildings now house a small screening room, where clips from a documentary on Herriot’s life play, as well as a re-creation of the TV studio and set on which the 1978 television series was filmed. The set from the current PBS series, which began in 2020, is in another part of the museum, which also includes an extensive exhibit of historic veterinarian instruments.

As we wandered through the town and the museum, Herriot the man came to life as lyrically as his fiction. A country vet, whose career began before the age of antibiotics and many now-commonplace vaccines, wrote, beginning at age 50, a series of semi-autobiographical novels that would become international bestsellers and launch several films and two series, one of which was filming 35 miles away in Grassington.

He never left the Dales, or stopped being a vet; during his lifetime, fans would line the street outside his practice, waiting for autographs and photos. Twenty years after his death, Thirsk remains both an ordinary Yorkshire town (the only Herriot memorabilia advertised is in the museum gift shop) and an enduring tourist destination. (If you go, may I recommend lunch/tea at Upstairs, Downstairs, where I got a life-changing Yorkshire rarebit with bacon and fried egg as well as a sack of the local sweet, cinder toffee.)

Grassington, North Yorkshire, becomes a film set for “All Creatures Great and Small.”

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

Deeper in the Dales, Nancy and I rented a “glamping pod” in Malhamdale. On our way, we stopped in Grassington, where the town was being transformed into Darrowby with period-and-place-appropriate signs, advertisements and community announcements. “Open as usual but dressed for filming” read a sign in the window of the Stripey Badger Bookshop, Coffee Shop and Kitchen.

Filming would take place in two days’ time, so we returned then to see the square come alive with extras in period clothing. Within the crowd of fellow onlookers, controlled by lovely but firm crew members, we watched as a scene between Siegfried (Samuel West) and Tristan (Callum Woodhouse) was filmed outside the Drovers Arms.

A breathtaking view and unique fractured “pavement” at Malham Cove.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

We had chosen Malhamdale because its limestone topography is considered the most stunning of the Dales. And that it most certainly is.

From the village of Malham we hiked to Malham Cove, which rose in near miraculous silver splendor among the sylvan greenery, and then ascended the nearly 500 steps to its top. There, a breathtaking view and unique fractured “pavement” has been used in countless films, including “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows” and the 1992 “Wuthering Heights.” We followed the trail to the Gordale Scar, a glorious gorge and waterfall that is also a favorite filming spot, and thence to Janet’s Foss, a woodland waterfall and pool, beside a cave where the queen of the fairies is said to live.

Janet’s Foss, a woodland waterfall and pool.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

After just three days in the Dales, I clearly understood why no amount of money or fame had convinced Herriot and his family to leave.

Dracula town

Windswept Whitby sits on the east coast of Yorkshire, with its back to the North York Moors National Park and its face to the North Sea. It climbs either side of a valley created by the River Esk, as it joins the port where whalers once launched and Captain Cook first commandeered the HMS Endeavour.

On the west side, the street along the harbor is chockablock with venues catering to tourists and daytrippers come to enjoy the pier and small beaches. Families rent crab pots and put their catch in plastic buckets held by delighted children. Atop the cliffs behind, Georgian homes, hotels and guest houses stand in gracious testament to Whitby’s Victorian history as a popular spa town, as it was when Stoker visited in 1890. He stayed in a West Cliff guest house, gazing, as everyone must do, across the harbor where the remains of the 13th century Whitby Abbey dominate the East Cliff.

The harbor at Whitby, North Yorkshire.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

Even under a beaming sun, the ruins, aproned by the graveyard of the nearby Norman church of St. Mary’s, carve a formidable black silhouette against the sky. Beneath are the roofs and cobbled streets of the medieval Old Town, where ancient pubs stand among jewelers specializing in local jet. To reach the abbey, visitors must climb the town’s famous 199 steps that rise along the cliff.

“It is a most noble ruin,” Mina Harker writes in her journal in early chapters of “Dracula.” “Between it and the town there is another church, the parish one, round which is a big graveyard, all full of tombstones. This is to my mind the nicest spot in Whitby, for it lies right over the town, and has a full view of the harbor.”

Here Mina and her friend Lucy Westenra sit among the graves, sketching and talking, later, watching clouds gather for the storm that would bring the Demeter, and Count Dracula, to Whitby. Here too Mina would see, from the West Cliff, her sleepwalking friend half reclining on “our favorite seat” and for a moment “it seemed to me as though something dark stood behind the seat where the white figure shone, and bent over it.”

The remains of Whitby Abbey.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

We visited on a sunny day, and the wind blew hard as we traced Mina and Lucy’s steps through the tombs and along the path past the Abbey toward Robin Hood’s Bay. With its glorious views and picturesque harbor, Whitby is the antithesis of gothic horror. Still, it was here that Stoker, researching another novel, first read of Vlad the Impaler, otherwise known as Dracula, and no doubt heard of the wreck of the Russian ship Dmitry, which had run aground beneath East Cliff five years before his visit.

And so the godfather of modern horror was born.

Brontë Country

It is difficult to imagine a fictional tale more gothic, inspirational and remarkable than that of three brilliant sisters who lived in relative isolation on the edge of the Yorkshire Moors, secretly battling their socially conscripted futures by writing poems and novels that they dared not publish under their own names.

The Brontë Parsonage Museum in Haworth, North Yorkshire.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

Two of those novels — ”Jane Eyre” by Charlotte Brontë and “Wuthering Heights” by Emily Brontë, are still considered masterworks, influencing subsequent generations and endlessly adapted for film and television. (In the ultimate Yorkshire crossover, Wainwright wrote the breathtaking two-part Brontë biopic “To Walk Invisible,” which everyone should see.)

The Brontë Parsonage Museum, and the town of Haworth which it overlooks, is very much a tourist attraction. An information annex, gift shop and public restroom have been added behind it, but once you enter the small garden that stands between the parsonage’s front door and St. Michael and All Angels’ Church, you are in another world.

In 1820, Patrick Brontë, recently appointed incumbent of St. Michael, moved his wife, Maria, and their six children into the parsonage where they all lived for the rest of their natural (albeit in most cases, short) lives. Maria died in 1821; the two older children, Maria and Elizabeth, died four years later after being sent to a typhoid-plagued school Charlotte would pillory as Lowood in “Jane Eyre.”

The museum is meticulously restored to reflect the years that the surviving children — Charlotte, Emily, Anne and Branwell, the only son — were young adults. The dining room table, where the sisters wrote, is strewn with manuscripts, quill pens and tea cups; a bonnet and shawl bedeck a chair in the small kitchen. Patrick had his own study but it is difficult to imagine three women being able to write separate works, never mind classics, in such close quarters. Ironically, only Branwell’s room, papered with sketches and poems, looks like an artist’s refuge.

St. Michael and All Angels’ Church in the town of Haworth.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

Unlike his three sisters, Branwell, his artistic career stunted by alcoholism and an opium addiction, never published. He died of tuberculosis in 1848 at 31.

If any place should be haunted, it is the Brontë parsonage. Shortly after Branwell’s funeral (and just a year after “Wuthering Heights” was published), 30-year-old Emily also died of tuberculosis, expiring on the sofa that stands beside the dining room table. A few months later, after the publication of her second novel, “The Tenant of Wildfell Hall,” Anne, 29, succumbed to the disease in nearby Scarborough, just south of Whitby.

Charlotte, who wrote two more novels after “Jane Eyre,” was the only sister to be celebrated during her lifetime. She married and then died at the parsonage in 1855 at 38 of complications from her first pregnancy. Only Patrick lived to old age — 84 — dying in 1861 in the home where he had served for 41 years.

The Brontë Parsonage Museum in Haworth, North Yorkshire.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

But it is not a sad house; instead visitors are left to wonder at the genius, resolution and audacity that roiled the quiet rooms and halls where the sisters secretly wrote and sent out their manuscripts, all initially under the the names of Currer (Charlotte), Ellis (Emily) and Acton (Anne) Bell.

The steeply descending main street of Haworth is filled with tea shops, pubs and stores clearly dedicated to pleasing Brontë pilgrims, but its basic form, including the original stationery store where the sisters once bought their paper, remains the same.

As do the moors that stretch behind the parsonage. On a walk to the Brontë Waterfall (more like a small but still lovely rill) and Top Withens, the ruin of a 16th century farmhouse believed to have inspired “Wuthering Heights,” the wild silence and sweeping vistas are even more transporting than the parsonage. One imagines not the ghost of Cathy or Heathcliff, but a trio of women, very much alive and striding through the heather, their minds alight with the stories they would tell, set among similar terrain.

Wainwright’s Way

Our final accommodation on this literary sojourn was Holdsworth House, a manor hotel near Halifax where screenwriter Wainwright and her casts often stay during filming, and where Alan (Derek Jacobi) and Celia (Anne Reid) were married in “Last Tango in Halifax.”

Holdsworth House, a manor hotel near Halifax.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

With creaking floors, fireplaces, a first-class restaurant, mullioned windows and a lovely garden, Holdsworth House would be glorious even without its famous connections (including a 1964 stay by the Beatles). Plans for at least two weddings were being discussed by staff during our sojourn.

On our way there, we stopped in Heptonstall, a tiny town above Hebden Bridge, where Sylvia Plath is buried in the St. Thomas A’ Becket churchyard. Her husband, Ted Hughes, was born in the nearby town of Mytholmroyd and though they were estranged at the time of her death, he was her next of kin and chose the site, and the stone, on which the poet is identified as Sylvia Plath Hughes above an epitaph that reads: “Even amidst fierce flames, the golden lotus can be planted.”

Heptonstall, a tiny town above Hebden Bridge, where Sylvia Plath is buried in the St. Thomas A’ Becket churchyard.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

There are no signs directing visitors to Plath’s resting place; we relied on Apple Maps and my memory of a brief glimpse of it in Wainwright’s “Happy Valley” (Becky, the daughter of main character Catherine Cawood [Sarah Lancashire], is buried nearby). Looking for the piles of pens that once adorned Plath’s grave didn’t help; it is now blanketed in planted flowers. A few pens have been left on the headstone, which has been replaced at least once; generations of fans have attempted to obliterate “Hughes.”

Down the hill in Hebden Bridge, Wainwright’s world comes miraculously to life — the canals with their longboats, on which Catherine battled Tommy Lee Royce (James Norton); the Albert pub which proudly announces on a placard that it is the Duke of Wellington in “Riot Women”; even the public car park where Alan had his car stolen while meeting Celia for the first time in “Last Tango.”

The canal at Hebden Bridge.

(Mary McNamara / Los Angeles Times)

While driving around Hebden Bridge and towns surrounding nearby Halifax, I more than once imagined I was Catherine Cawood and marveled at Wainwright’s loyalty to this land, its cities, towns, farms and moors. Her series are inevitably female-centric and like the Brontës, who wrote 200 years and a few miles away, her work excavates the drama of daily life and the tension between good and evil that sings below any surface.

The sisters, I believe, would be very proud.

Writer Octavia Lillywhite discovered the latest ‘moorcore’ trend with a wild and windswept escape in Bronte country, West Yorkshire

“Wuthering” is a Northern English term for a strong, roaring wind or a storm-lashed place, which is highly appropriate for Emily Brönte’s only novel – Cathy and Healthcliff’s tempestuous story of passion and revenge. It’s a harder sell for a holiday.

That hasn’t stopped ‘Moorcore’ from becoming the latest trend in UK breaks. And what is Moorcore? It’s a move-on from the cutesy cottagecore vibe (all roses round the windows, thatched roofs and cats curled by the fire). It’s wild and free. The feeling of standing atop a gritstone edge, a heathery moorland vista stretching to the horizon, tumbling waterfalls, fairy glens, fresh air in your lungs.

READ MORE: I found the perfect Tuscany Hotel for a week of incredible food and wine in Italy

There’s no better place to channel moorcore than on Haworth Moor – whose wild, heather-strews footpaths were well-traipsed by the Brontës. Two miles from their parsonage, Royds Hall Cottage is marked on maps from 1847, the very year Wuthering Heights published, and it’s likely it was a familiar sight for the sisters on their rambles. As we arrive, the breeze tusseling daffodils along the embankment and a buzzard hovering above, it feels magical.

Stay in the heart of the Yorkshire moors… near the pub

The kitchen is panelled on two sides with windows – a 180º view. There’s Ponden Reservoir shimmering, purple hills rising beyond and, in front, the owner’s horses tearing up the grass. The view changes moment to moment, as clouds scud across the sky, rolling shadows over the dale. You can watch the weather curl in from the east, like two days visible from the same window. I could marvel at it all day.

Just the right mix of old and new, the cottage sleeps four in two cosy rooms upstairs. Downstairs, the living room has the same vast view as the kitchen, exposed oak beams, a woodburner and sofas for cosying up in. And there’s a copy of Wuthering Heights if you forgot yours.

I’d had some concerns that wilderness could feel remote, but from the cottage’s kitchen window I could see the comforting sign of the nearest pub, and two more are a 10-minute walk away, in the village.

Walking in the footsteps of Wuthering Heights

On an energetic five-and-a-half mile loop from the cottage front door, we took in the waterfall at Lumb Beck (detailed in Charlotte’s letters to her friend, Ellen) and the desolate farmhouse at Top Withens – said to be the setting for Cathy and Healthcliff’s home. From there, across the moorland paths we discovered the Fairy Kirk at Ponden Clough (‘Penistone Crags’ in the novel), and beautiful Ponden Hall, which Emily Brontë used as Edgar Linton’s Thrushcross Grange and where her sister Anne set The Tenant of Wildfell Hall.

Around Top Withens and the waterfall, there were scores of walkers admiring the famous views but, only a crow-call beyond, we saw barely a soul – just swooping curlews with their strange warbling cries and a roe deer bouncing off into the distance. It’s easy to find both wild inspiration and, afterwards, scones and clotted cream at Ponden Mill.

In the other direction, Haworth village was less than an hour’s stroll. It’s the focal point of Brontë pilgrimage, so it was busy – yet still so beguiling, with a sense of the sisters at every turn. Visiting on foot meant we could skip the car park and enter the village – just as they would have – from the footpath at the end of Church Street.

Their house (now an unmissable museum) is the first you come to on the cobbled street. From the parlour table, the one Emily and her sisters worked at, you can still look out at the graveyard with its overcrowded, flat-lying gravestones.

The best places to eat and shop near Stanbury and Haworth

In Stanbury village, a 10-minute walk from the house, we found the Wuthering Heights Inn serves excellent pub food classics, is family and dog friendly and didn’t bat an eyelid at our muddy boots.

If you prefer to eat in, don’t miss Robertshaw’s Farm Shop at Thornton, 20 minutes by car. It’s packed to the rafters with local meats, dairy, vegetables and baked goods plus wine and Yorkshire ales. We loved it so much we stopped there again on the way home to pack the car with extras.

How to book this Yorkshire Moors cottage stay

Royds Hall Cottage sleeps four (a double room and a twin) and is available to book through booking.com or cottages.com, from £370 for 3 nights.

More ‘moorcore’ destinations to try in the UK, with great literary links

The wild places of Britain have been inspiring literary classics for generations, and Haworth is not the only place to find it.

Lorna Doone

Where to find it: Riverside Cottage overlooks dappling Badgeworthy Water, the river where John and Lorna meet, just at the ford in Malmesmead. In a seven-ish mile walk you can head up into their moorland valley among the rolling hills, or a 3-mile loop takes in the 13th-century church at Oare. Either way, you end back at your cottage, next door to The Buttery café. Further afield, don’t miss Tarr Steps (about 35 minutes by car) where a 1000-year old clapper bridge spans the river, and in summer families picnic on the grassy meadow before heading to Liscombe Dairy for the best ice creams.

How much? Riverside Cottage sleeps four from £699 for 7 nights, see nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays

The Secret Garden

Where to find it: Wood Cottage nestles in the rugged North York Moors, circled almost entirely by wild uplands with footpaths in any direction. One of the area’s most inspiring views, The Wainstones, is a 3-mile hike, and on the way back you can drop by The Buck Inn. The cottage is 200 years old but recently – and so prettily refurbished – with the living room upstairs for the best light and views. It’s set on a working sheep farm, so expect fluffy Herdwick lambs to visit at the back gate for your very own Dicken moment from the patio. Twenty minutes drive away, Hemsley Walled Garden could rival the garden Mary Lennox found, while right next door, Dunscombe Park served as Misselthwaite Manor in the 2020 Secret Garden film.

How much? Wood Cottage sleeps four from £697 for 7 nights, see sykescottages.co.uk

Nestled in Yorkshire it is one of the most extensive deserted medieval settlements and a fascinating medieval historical site open for the public to freely explore

Visitors flock from all corners of the country to witness what’s considered the UK’s ‘best preserved’ medieval village.

Wharram Percy has stood empty for hundreds of years and now provides a captivating destination for ramblers and heritage lovers.

Tucked away in North Yorkshire, Wharram Percy represents one of Britain’s largest abandoned medieval communities and certainly the most celebrated.

The site is open for the public to explore freely, uncovering the remains of ancient dwellings, a church, and the surviving fragments of a manor house.

Perfectly positioned between sought-after landmarks Scarborough Castle and York’s Clifford’s Tower, it serves as an ideal pit stop for those journeying between these two destinations, reports Yorkshire Live.

Save on the best holiday cottages in Yorkshire

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From £31 per night

Sykes Cottages

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Famous for its dramatic landscapes, historic cities, hearty food, and rich cultural heritage Yorkshire is just waiting to be explored. Sykes Cottages has a large number of properties to choose from with prices from £31 per night.

While admission to the village is free, there’s a £2 parking fee.

Throughout an extraordinary six-decade span, archaeologists have repeatedly uncovered fresh insights into Wharram Percy’s past.

Their discoveries have revealed why the location was originally abandoned and how its residents existed in earlier eras.

Situated on the rim of a Yorkshire valley, this extraordinary community was home to settlements for as long as six centuries before being deserted following the 1500s.

Scholars indicate that even now, traces of former habitations remain visible across the terrain, alongside the more significant ruins that draw inquisitive visitors.

The background is intricate, yet specialists believe the initial community stretches back to approximately 50 BC.

The land was later transformed for agricultural purposes, yet remained abandoned throughout the 5th century, before ultimately evolving into a Middle Saxon settlement.

It’s important to mention that accessing the village involves approximately a 3/4 mile trek from the car park to the main site, which is often both steep and muddy.

The location contains uneven ground throughout, which can present difficulties for some guests and is mostly unsuitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs.

One TripAdvisor reviewer said: “Parking on the Heritage car park off the B1248 prepare for a trek to the village.”

They continued to describe it as a “sharp gravelled decline” and a “daunting” journey that is unsuitable for those with limited mobility, as the route passes through farmland.

After their visit, one excited guest commended their experience, remarking: “Lovely walk from the car park to the site, but people with mobility issues may struggle. It’s a fascinating historical site that has been really well managed.

“Only a few visitors when we visited, which added to the peace and tranquillity of the place. Loved it!”

Another guest commented: “This lovely deserted mediaeval village is truly fascinating! The history is incredible, and it was wonderful to wander around and explore. We really lucked out and had beautiful weather, so we got to sit on the grass by the pond and soak it all in.”

This package offers a family of four the chance to experience on of Gulliver’s four theme parks and includes tickets to the park, entertainment, and an overnight stay for less than £25-a-head

Keeping the kids entertained can be a costly undertaking, but this deal offers families not only a fun day at a theme park, but also a memorable overnight stay, all for less than £100.

Gulliver’s Theme Park Resorts, who have four locations in Milton Keynes, Warrington, Matlock Bath, and Rotherham, are now offering a ‘1 Night Saver’ package on selected dates that comes in at £99 for a family of four. The package includes tickets to the park, so families get access to all the rides, attractions, and entertainment for the day.

The cost also includes an overnight stay in select themed family accommodation, with access to the resort’s facilities and activities for even more fun for all ages. Families can book these overnight packages on selected Friday dates throughout 2026, with park access on the Saturday after you check out.

The package can be booked at www.gulliversfun.co.uk, where families can also browse the fun accommodation options available to them. Depending on the park and availability, these can include family-sized double suites, western-themed dens, fairy hideouts, and dino dens, so no matter what the kids are into, there’s an accommodation option they’ll find thrilling.

If you’re looking for different dates, it’s also worth checking out Wowcher’s Gulliver’s deals, which include school holiday dates. Packages start from £159 for tickets and overnight accommodation, and options include stays in Jungle Cabins and dinosaur-themed Lost World dens.

Facilities and attractions also vary by resort, but as an example its Warrington park features rides such as a wooden rollercoaster, pirate ship, log flume, and lots of other fun themed attractions for all the family. Look out for themed events such as Princess and Pirates weekend where kids can meet characters that they love.

If you don’t have a Gulliver’s near you, many other theme parks across the UK also offer short break packages. Paultons Park, known for being the home of Peppa Pig world, is offering short breaks from £177 per family. This includes a second free day in the park for the family, free parking, and breakfast.

Alton Towers is also currently running a Spring Sale where those who stay overnight get a second day free. Alton Towers packages include free parking, 9-hole golf, and breakfast. Guests can also add a waterpark pass to their booking, allowing them to enjoy even more family fun during their stay. You can find out more on the Alton Towers short breaks website.

Other parks operated by Merlin are also offering a similar deal, including Chessington, Thorpe Park, and LEGOLAND. Many resorts also offer additional entertainment and perks to guests, making for the ultimate family sleepover.

Find out more about Gulliver’s deals, check availability and book short breaks at www.gulliversfun.co.uk.

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SUNDAY may be a day of rest in Europe, but that’s not the case for Puerto Rico. 

The shops were shut, but the city of Ponce was very much awake.  

As I wandered the streets, locals cruised past in their vintage cars, music blasted from lively bars and groups of youngsters burst into spontaneous dance on the streets. 

In the main square, families strolled past colourful murals and beautiful yet crumbling Art Deco buildings, while old men put the world to rights over a leisurely game of dominoes in the main square. 

Ponce (pronounced Pon-say) was the last stop on my Tropical Isles cruise onboard the recently refurbished Marella Discovery. 

It’s a new port for Marella so, like ­Christopher Columbus — who discovered the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico back in 1493 — I was excited to be one of the first people to explore. 

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Week-long sailings start and finish in La Romana, in the Dominican Republic, calling at the nearby nature reserve of Isla Catalina, the Puerto Rican capital of San Juan and the US Virgin Islands of St Thomas and St Croix. 

Now I’ve been lucky enough to visit the Caribbean a few times before, but I was still surprised by how green these islands were.  

And while this itinerary gave me plenty of opportunity to sunbathe on white-sand beaches and sample local rum (I recommend Ron del Barrilito), I was still able to go hiking in the rainforest and kayak through beautiful coves. 

Staying active is something I would definitely recommend on a Marella cruise — not just because you’ll miss out on amazing experiences if you don’t, but because you’ll need to burn off all the extra calories you’re bound to consume on board. 

With nine restaurants and seven bars spread over 11 decks, you certainly won’t go hungry or thirsty — especially as Marella cruises are all-inclusive as standard.  

This means your flights, cabin, transfers to and from the ship, drinks, food and entertainment are all included in the price. 

Even your bags go straight from your home airport to your cabin door so you don’t have to worry about collecting them from a carousel or lugging them around. 

Compared to other cruise ships, Marella Discovery is quite small, accommodating up to 1,800 passengers.  

It’s really set up for British tourists, though, with Yorkshire Tea on tap and dishes such as steak and ale pie readily available in the excellent Islands buffet. 

Entertainment-wise, passengers can find their way out of an escape room, play a round of mini-golf or enjoy a musical afternoon tea. Plus there are West End-style shows, quizzes and gameshows galore. 

For better-quality booze and speciality ­coffees, you can upgrade to a Premium All Inclusive package, while speciality restaurants, including the Surf & Turf Steakhouse and Sushi Bar, come at an extra charge. 

But be sure to leave room for some traditional Caribbean delicacies when you leave the ship. At Café Manolin, in San Juan, I joined locals queuing to tuck into giant plates of mofongo, a much-loved Puerto Rican dish of fried green plantain stuffed with meat or veggies. 

Coffee is also big business here — and almost as popular as rapper Bad Bunny, who hails from the island.  

Many coffee plantations welcome visitors to sample their wares but I got my caffeine fix at Hacienda Jacana, in the mountainous region of Adjuntas, where owner Jonathan and his ex-cop father proudly showed off their farm while explaining details of the coffee-making process. 

I was buzzing after a few cups of their delicious Latitude 18° coffee — but it couldn’t possibly compare to the buzz I got in St Thomas after snorkelling with a group of green turtles in the crystal-clear water of Magens Bay. 

Granted, I had to keep reminding myself that I wouldn’t die if I tried to breathe ­normally underwater, but I forgot all about breathing when a metre-long turtle paddled right past my face. Just wow. 

As an animal lover, and a keen traveller missing my two dogs back home, I was also thrilled to stumble across the Ruff Night — Hair Of The Dog Bar in St Croix (pronounced Croy), just steps from where Marella Discovery docked in Frederiksted.

The lively bar, in the courtyard of the Victoria House Inn, is run by volunteers from the Ruff Start STX animal charity who love nothing more than mixing super-strong cocktails and bringing in puppies for punters to cuddle.  

And if that’s not reason enough to visit, all money raised from the bar goes directly to local dogs in need, so go armed with plenty of cash in your pocket! 

I’d certainly worked up a thirst after a morning kayaking in the nearby Salt River Bay, and I enjoyed getting back to nature there almost as much as I did at El Yunque National Forest — the jewel in the crown of Puerto Rico. 

The 28,000-acre site is the only tropical rainforest in the US and it has more than 100 miles of walking trails just waiting to be explored. With enormous trees providing canopies of greenery and exotic birds and frogs creating a cacophony of noise, it was just how I imagined a rainforest to be. 

While mosquitoes are rife here after dark, I managed to avoid being savaged by the pesky wee beasties during the daytime. 

One thing was for sure, though — I had definitely been bitten by the Caribbean cruise bug.