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It’s only a kilometre long, but you can spend hours here.

Living in London, it can be easy to feel like just another face in the crowd. The city’s relentless energy has a habit of sweeping people along on an unstoppable wave of commitments and social engagements.

Yet there are a handful of corners quietly resisting the city’s never-ending march of development — and I’m fortunate enough to live just a short walk from one of them.

Stoke Newington Church Street stretches just a kilometre, but it is absolutely bursting with independent businesses. In fact, independent retailers account for a remarkable 90% of the shops lining this road, so while walking it from one end to the other takes no more than 10 minutes, you’ll almost certainly find yourself strolling at a far more leisurely pace.

Abney Park Cemetery

The street is framed at both ends by two of London’s most breathtaking green spaces. You can begin your walk, as I frequently do, at Abney Park Cemetery, which sprawls across the eastern end of the street near Stoke Newington High Street.

This is one of London’s celebrated ‘Magnificent Seven’ garden cemeteries — and it truly lives up to that billing. First opened in 1840, it covers an impressive 31 acres.

Today, well-trodden paths weave through the gloriously untamed grounds, where headstones tilt at unlikely angles and towering trees cast dappled light across ivy-clad mausoleums. It holds the distinction of being the UK’s first entirely non-denominational garden cemetery, with a grand chapel at its heart, welcoming mourners of every faith.

It’s a brilliant starting point for a stroll, and when I wandered through the striking white gates yesterday afternoon, the paths were already bustling with young mothers pushing prams and dog walkers giving their pets a breath of fresh air.

Take whichever route takes your fancy, but when you’re ready to head towards the high street, turn left and make your way out.

You’ll notice a distinct absence of traffic — that’s down to a low traffic initiative introduced by the council, which restricts most cars from the road, making it a pleasure to walk along. There’s also no underground station nearby, which is precisely what gives Stoke Newington Church Street its wonderfully quiet, village-like feel compared to the neighbouring areas of Dalston and Finsbury Park.

Homeware shops and pubs

On the right-hand side of the street you’ll find PREP Cookshop — quite possibly my favourite shop on the strip.

This wonderful spot opened in 2015 and stocks all manner of items, from homewares to top-quality baking and cooking equipment, alongside ceramics crafted by local artists.

When I popped in yesterday, I had a chat with Christiana, who has been working at PREP for just over a year and has lived in Stoke Newington for 12 years. She told me her favourite thing about the area was its sense of community.

She said: “It’s all familiar faces – like a village for everyone. There’s a good amount of hustle and bustle, but it’s still cosy and cute and people remember you.”

I asked whether she’d ever consider leaving Stoke Newington, and she laughed. “Only against my will!”

Leaving PREP behind, I continued my stroll up towards the second of the area’s stunning green spaces — Clissold Park. Though between the two, there’s plenty worth stopping for along the way.

If you’re a Guinness fan, The Auld Shillelagh is an absolute must. This classic Irish pub is widely regarded as serving the finest pint in London.

It’s actually where I had my very first Guinness. Be sure to arrive early, as this narrow boozer fills up quickly on evenings and weekends.

If it’s a little too soon for a pint, then seek out one of Stoke Newington Church Street’s best-kept secrets. Tucked just off the main road, you’ll discover Retro Hub.

From the pavement outside, you’ll spot mirrors and paintings lining the street — a perfect spot for a selfie.

Inside, narrow passageways wind their way through towering stacks of vintage furniture. Think mid-century dressers, a vintage Street Fighter arcade machine, and every conceivable variety of tables, desks and chairs.

If you can walk out empty-handed, you’ve got far more willpower than me.

From there, make your way along to Search and Rescue. Regularly namechecked in lifestyle guides and lists of the capital’s trendiest boutiques, this stylish shop stocks a carefully curated selection of vintage furniture, fragrances, ceramics, stationery, jewellery and much more.

Whether you’re hunting for the perfect gift or simply treating yourself, Search and Rescue won’t disappoint. Manager Lauren told me the shop has been a fixture on the street for over a decade.

Having lived in the area for six years, she echoed Christiana’s sentiments, saying her favourite aspect is the strong sense of community.

She said: “All of the independent [shops] all have quite a nice community. We all help each other out, and there’s lots of events held. We’re all looking forward to whatever new things are going to open in the future.”

Bakeries and parks

I managed to resist splashing my wages in Search and Rescue, and carried on my wander along the street to yet another beloved institution — Spence Bakery.

This independent bakery has been a cornerstone of the community since 2002. Although it was fairly quiet when I popped in on Thursday afternoon, don’t be fooled. At weekends, there’s a queue out the door for their freshly baked pastries, breads and coffees.

Inside, Ellen stepped away from the coffee machine to have a chat about what keeps customers coming back.

“Our best sellers are the seasonal things, but lemon drizzle is always popular. For pastries, it’s got to be the pain au chocolat.”

Ellen herself has a soft spot for their cinnamon danish — and when it comes to the high street, she named Search and Rescue as her favourite neighbouring shop, particularly their candles. Though with so much on offer, picking just one is no easy task.

Ellen said: “I just love all the independent shops.”

Once you’ve visited Spence Bakery, you’re just a short stroll away from the other park that borders Stoke Newington Church Street.

Clissold Park is a stunning, beautifully maintained historic green space spanning 54 acres, criss-crossed by bridges over the man-made aqueduct that meanders throughout.

Yet the undisputed highlight for me is the park’s resident herd of fallow deer. Housed within a dedicated enclosure and completely free to visit, they’re at their liveliest at dusk and dawn.

On my visit, the buck was shadowing the females, bellowing loudly in a bid to win their affections — though they appeared thoroughly unimpressed.

Come autumn, the park is simply breathtaking. Tree-lined paths blaze with golden hues, while vast open lawns provide the ideal setting for a kickabout, a dog walk, or simply settling down to watch the world go by.

My favourite pub

After a leisurely lap of the park, taking in the deer enclosure and Clissold House, I made my way back to Stoke Newington Church Street for a well-earned pint before heading home.

Just a stone’s throw from the park sits The Mary Wollstonecraft, an independent freehouse that took over from Ryan’s Bar in July 2026. From the street, it cuts an understated figure — a compact green frontage adorned with charming hanging baskets — but step inside its snug, dimly lit interior and discover what’s tucked away out the back.

The pub’s interior is a wonderful tribute to female writers — naturally, its namesake Mary Wollstonecraft, the legendary writer, philosopher and Stoke Newington local, takes centre stage, but a striking installation of tiles also pays homage to other celebrated women writers, ranging from Sappho in Ancient Greece all the way through to Sally Rooney.

Don’t come here expecting a pint of Guinness; instead, you’ll find 10 cask hand pumps and 12 rotating keg lines dedicated exclusively to smaller British breweries and classic German imports. I opted for a cider and made my way outside to the vast beer garden stretching out behind the pub.

Covered, heated and bursting with lush greenery, it’s furnished with wrought iron patio seating topped with plump, comfortable cushions. The beer garden truly feels like a hidden retreat from the bustling high street.

It’s so tranquil you could easily imagine you were sitting in a mate’s back garden rather than a pub. The gentle trickle of a water fountain was the only sound accompanying me as I savoured my pint and considered just how fortunate I am to have this gem on my doorstep.

From judicial reform to conscription and the Palestinians, here’s where candidates stand on the key issues dominating the campaign.

For an election often billed as the most consequential in Israel’s history, many issues that outsiders might expect to divide the candidates are, in fact, points of consensus among the frontrunners.

None of the leading contenders in Tuesday’s election has questioned the case for unleashing a genocide on Gaza in response to the Hamas-led attack of October 7, 2023, or the wars that have followed, including the one on Iran. Nor have most candidates for the premiership offered a clear path towards implementing a two-state solution to the Israel-Palestine conflict that was envisaged in the 1990s, or towards an equitable settlement with the Palestinians whose territory Israel occupies.

Instead, the points of division centre almost exclusively on Israel’s internal politics and how voters see the future character of their country. The choice is between the hard-right government of incumbent Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, unconstrained by the judicial oversight he has railed against, and the future outlined by the disparate coalition of his opponents, which promises a broadly similar policy agenda but within the confines of the law and without the more extreme elements of the current governing coalition.

So, what have the leading candidates said about the main issues?

The two-state solution

Despite having committed to working towards a two-state solution in the 1990s’ Oslo Accords, with many of their allies adjusting their policies towards Israel to reflect that commitment, few of the contenders in Tuesday’s election appear ready to honour it. Instead, their government stands widely accused of abetting the settler pogroms now raging across the West Bank, while supporting continued construction in the occupied territory in defiance of international law. This includes the E1 settlement plan, which ministers openly boast will bury the two-state solution.

Here’s what some of the contenders have said:

• Likud party leader, Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu: “We are going to fulfill our promise that there will be no Palestinian state; this place belongs to us.”
• Yashar party Gadi Eisenkot: “My position on the Palestinian issue has remained consistent: The principle of two states for two peoples is a mistake.”

• Religious Zionist party leader, Finance Minister Bezalel Smotrich: The next government should “destroy the idea of an Arab terror state; finally, formally and practically cancel the cursed Oslo Accords and get on the path of sovereignty, while encouraging migration both from Gaza and from Judea and Samaria [occupied West Bank]. There is no other long-term solution.”
• The Democrats leader Yair Golan: “We need to understand that Israeli society is still in trauma from October 7. To make the galactic leap from the current situation to a two-state solution is impossible. It’s not enough to return to old formulas, we need to adjust our plans, our ideas, our perceptions. My concept is about civil separation and security responsibility.”

Haredi draft

The conscription of Israel’s growing ultra-Orthodox, or Haredi, population into the army is an issue largely unique to Israel, and one whose prominence has grown as the human and economic costs of the wars in which many refuse to take part have mounted.

Netanyahu has continued to rely on the two main Haredi parties, Shas and United Torah Judaism (UTJ), for support in the Knesset. They have in turn insisted that he pass legislation overturning the Supreme Court ruling of June 25, 2024 and offering ultra-Orthodox youth a legislative shield against conscription.

Here is what leaders have said:

• Netanyahu after the arrest this month of about 40 Haredim – plural for Haredi – for avoiding the draft: “We must preserve the world of Torah because it preserved us. These arrests are a deliberate attempt to harm the process of drafting Haredim without coercion.”
• Shas leader Aryeh Deri: “There will be no government in Israel with Shas’s support or participation unless the status of yeshiva [seminary] students is regulated.”
• Eisenkot: “That is what the upcoming election is about: Netanyahu’s draft-dodging government, or a government of conscription led by me.”
• Yisrael Beiteinu party leader Avigdor Liberman: “Netanyahu is issuing an impassioned call against the arrest of draft evaders, once again proving that he is a hostage to the draft evaders – without them, he has no government.”

Judicial overhaul

Days after taking office in 2022, Netanyahu’s government unveiled a plan to curb the powers of Israel’s courts, which triggered months of mass protests in 2023 before the war on Gaza paused the fight.

The coalition has passed measures reshaping how judges are appointed, while in July a law stripped Attorney General Gali Baharav-Miara of many of her powers, allowing the government to reject her legal advice and choose its own lawyers in court. Both are due to take effect after the election and most of the opposition has promised to reverse them.

The government has also boycotted Chief Justice Isaac Amit. Critics call it a deliberate assault on democracy by a prime minister embroiled in a long-running corruption trial of his own, while Justice Minister Yariv Levin says the election is a historic chance to finish the job.

Here are some of the contenders’ statements:

• Netanyahu: “Democracy is the rule of the people. It’s ‘we the people,’ not ‘we the judges … In Israel, [judicial reform] was completely derailed, and we have to bring it back. We don’t have to crush the judiciary, but we have to make sure it doesn’t crush the legislative branch, the Knesset or the executive branch of government.”
• Together alliance co-leader, former Prime Minister Naftali Bennett: “I want to be clear. We will cancel all the legal revolution laws immediately upon the convening of the Knesset.”

October 7 inquiry

While the killing of more than 74,000 people in Gaza has been entirely absent during the campaign of the two main alliances, questions over political accountability for security failures ahead of and during the Hamas-led attack in 2023 have dominated this election cycle.

Inquiries into failings by the security services ahead of and during the Hamas-led attack led to the resignation of Chief of Staff Herzi Halevi, announced in January 2025. They also fed a long, drawn-out and bitter fight with the prime minister that ended with the departure of Shin Bet head Ronen Bar in June last year.

However, despite recent news reports suggesting that Netanyahu was warned by both the UAE and Egypt ahead of the attack, and longstanding criticism of his policy of keeping Hamas in power in Gaza as a bulwark against the Palestinian Authority, no similar inquiry into his own alleged failings before October 7 has happened.

Here are some of the leaders’ statements:

• Eisenkot: “Netanyahu was warned and did not act. A State Commission of Inquiry that we will establish will investigate the disaster. The heads of the systems took responsibility and resigned long ago. We will not allow the master of evaders to escape the truth.”
• Netanyahu: The prime minister told the Knesset that his government “wants to establish a commission of inquiry with as broad public support as possible” and not one dismissed by what he claimed is “at least half the country”. The proposed government-led inquiry never reached its final reading and has been deferred to the next session.