walkable

There is no better way to explore a city than by foot, but not all places are as suitable for an adventure as others, as I found out during a recent visit to the world’s most walkable city

There is no better way to explore a city than on foot. Once touched down in a city, bag in the hotel and a fresh pair of socks on, the first thing I do is go for a walk.

It is impossible to get a feel for a place from the back of a taxi or from the elevated vantage point of a coach. You’ve got to start pounding the pavement, ideally without a destination in mind, and see where you end up.

On a recent trip to Rome, I set out from my central station hotel and marveled at the carnage of the Trevi Fountain queues, crossed the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and witnessed a coordinated group of ball-under-cup scammers sweatily fail to take anyone’s money. Last spring, I headed out into Benidorm, finding myself an impossibly cheap roast, a seafront pint of Guinness, and a ‘Good boys go to heaven, bad boys go to Benidorm’ t-shirt.

And so, in April, I applied the same approach to Seoul, a city recently named the most walkable in the world.

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OPINION

Each year, Time Out conducts an annual city survey, this time around quizzing 24,000 people on how easy or not it is to discover given cities on foot. The ranking is based on the highest percentage of locals who rated their city’s walkability ‘good’ or ‘amazing’, and the South Korean capital tops the list.

“A city doesn’t have to be small to be walkable. In fact, Seoul is one of the largest cities on the list by surface area and population, but its impressive 93 percent approval rating from locals has secured the South Korean capital joint-first position. Why? Well, the city has a reputation as an exceedingly safe place to stroll by day and night, and is home to neighbourhoods such as Myeongdong, Insadong, and Hongdae, which are all primed for exploring on foot,” writes Time Out.

“Then there are the innovative pedestrian walkways, like Seoullo 7017, an 1074m-long elevated ‘sky garden’ which has seen an old inner city highway revamped into a stroll-worthy green space, home to 24,000 different plants. In downtown Seoul, the Cheonggyecheon Stream is flanked by a walkway that not only links many of the city’s central metro stations, but also landmarks such as Gwanjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine and Gyeongbokgung Palace.”

I could not disagree more.

Seoul is a fantastic city. It’s alive with a kind of youthful, optimistic energy that feels far removed from most places I’ve visited; it’s fearlessly trendy, and it’s centered on an urban mountain blanketed with cherry blossoms come the spring.

But walkable it is not. Seoul is a car city.

The almost unbelievably cheap cost of an Uber (we’re talking around £5 for a half-hour ride) means that hopping in a cab is far more common than in the UK, while the wide, four and six-lane roads that dominate much of the city encourage motoring. And produce a lot of fumes.

According to NASA, Seoul is one of the world’s cities with the worst air pollution, beating Los Angeles, Tokyo, Paris, and London. You can certainly feel it. On one crisp morning, I walked up Namsan, the 170-meter-tall hill in Seoul’s center. The view from the top would be spectacular, were it not for the heavy, shimmering cloud that hung over everything.

Walking back down, I started to get the vague feeling I’d done something wrong. I hadn’t accidentally offended a waiter or lost my hotel pass; it was the signs. Seoul is a city of signs. From the expected ‘no smoking’, to the less typical ‘no archery’, to the possibly unique ‘no hiking without a flashlight’, everywhere you look, some kind of rule is being transmitted to you. It doesn’t leave you with a feeling of freedom and exploration, nor do the CCTV cameras placed on tall metal poles in the city’s woodland.

It’s a place that’s big on rules and completely opposed to bins. Having finished a snack, I walked for two hours without finding a trash can. South Koreans are expected to take their rubbish home with them – a system that says a lot about the population’s diligent character, but one I find inherently anti-social.

As I do the lack of pavements that had me regularly sliding down alleyway walls to give way to cars, and the complete, frustrating prohibition of jaywalking. Couple all of this with the fact that the city lacks an obvious centre and is exhaustingly massive, and its status as one of the world’s least walkable cities is clear.

Given my love of treading the tarmac, it says a lot about how fantastic the rest of Seoul is that I left in love with the place. From the fish-filled waters of Cheonggyecheon River, the rusty octopus of Yongma Land, and the impossibly cheap but high-grade cosmetics, it’s a fascinating place that feels like it’s at the centre of the world. Just prepare to order a cab.

If you want the perfect staycation weekend, this is one of the best

England is beautiful in the autumn, the leaves come alight with colour, and the many cobbled lanes and cosy pubs scattered across the country begin to beckon to eager tourists. However, there is one place where the magic of autumn shines brightest of all.

It’s jam packed with heritage, atmosphere and charm and perfect for a weekend getaway. The historic city of York is one of the best places to see the seasons change.

Hazel Rickett, travel expert at small-group tour operator Rabbie’s said: “There’s something about York in autumn that’s hard to put into words.

“As the temperature drops and the evenings grow darker, the city takes on a wonderfully atmospheric quality, with its narrow cobbled streets, ancient walls and glowing pub windows creating the perfect backdrop for a seasonal escape.”

One of the best things about York is that it’s small and walkable – you don’t need to worry about how you’re going to get around, you can just wrap up warm and wander through its streets, soaking up the history.

York has got history in spades, from the towering Gothic Cathedral of York Minster to the beautifully preserved medieval lanes of The Shambles.

The Shambles are an iconic part of the city. This lane is flanked by timber-framed buildings, leaning so dramatically that they almost touch overhead. It’s packed with independent cafes, shops and boutiques, making it a fabulous place to get lost.

On its outskirts, there’s the city walls which encircle the city and date back to medieval times.

Hazel said: “York is encircled by the longest and most complete medieval city walls in England, tracing a roughly two-mile route around the historic centre. The walls offer a raised walk that takes in some of the city’s finest views.

“Visitors can stroll the ramparts between the historic gateways, known as bars, and look out over the Minster, the rooftops and the surrounding countryside as the trees turn shades of amber and gold.

“It’s one of the most rewarding ways to see the city and appreciate just how much history is packed into its streets.”

For the brave, the city comes alive after dark. Famously one of the most haunted places in Europe, the city is packed with spooky tales of ghosts. Those looking for a paranormal experience can join one of the many ghost tours offered in the city and learn more about the legends said to stalk its streets.

The historic English city with Roman roots was crowned the world’s most beautiful city according to research

Sitting in northwest England close to the Welsh border, this historic city is steeped in centuries of history. Chester’s story stretches back almost 2,000 years.

The city was founded as Deva Victrix, a major Roman fortress, around AD 79. Today, traces of its Roman past can still be found throughout Chester, including the remains of its impressive amphitheatre and parts of the original fortress.

One of Chester’s biggest attractions is its remarkably well-preserved city walls. The roughly two-mile circuit follows the route of the city’s historic defences and offers a unique way to explore Chester, taking in many of its best-known landmarks along the way.

‘Most beautiful’ city

Chester has been previously crowned the most beautiful city in the world. Taking the top spot with an impressive 83.7% “beauty score” based on the “golden ratio”, Chester had seen off fierce competition from Edinburgh, Bristol, Prague, Venice and even Rome to claim the coveted title.

The research, carried out by Online Mortgage Advisor, used Google Street View to assess the architectural grandeur of thousands of homes, landmarks and streets from across the globe.

While the study ranked cities on their built environment, its foundations are firmly rooted in the world of art.

Explaining the significance of the golden ratio in the art world, it noted: “Artists over the last few centuries have incorporated the golden ratio into their work, believing it to be a gold standard in natural aesthetic perfection,” reports the Express.

Perhaps nothing gives Chester its distinctive character quite like The Rows.

These unusual two-level, covered walkways run through the heart of the city centre, with shops, cafés and restaurants lining the galleries.

The medieval structures are among Chester’s most recognisable features and give the city centre an atmosphere unlike many other places in England.

Meanwhile, the magnificent Chester Cathedral is another highlight, with a history spanning centuries and architecture ranging from the Norman period through to the Victorian era.

The Eastgate Clock has also become one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Perched above the Eastgate section of the city walls, it is an especially popular spot for photographs.

Walkable city

Despite officially being a city, Chester’s compact historic centre has a distinctly smaller-town feel.

Visitors can wander between independent shops, pubs, cafés and restaurants while surrounded by timber-framed, black-and-white buildings that give parts of the city an almost storybook appearance.

Beyond the centre, the surrounding Cheshire countryside provides plenty of opportunities to escape the bustle.

Chester’s location also makes it a convenient base for exploring North Wales, while Liverpool and Manchester are both within easy reach.

It is no wonder that Chester draws visitors from across the globe, with many leaving glowing five-star reviews on Tripadvisor.

John J was thoroughly impressed during a visit, saying: “Chester really is a beautiful town.”

He added: “The Chester Rows are just what makes Chester. Beautiful old buildings kept in remarkable condition. Walking around and seeing the history and beauty is so enjoyable. Sampled some nice food and pubs.”

During a visit to the cathedral, Sue. W called it “magnificient inside and out”.

She added: “This cathedral is magnificent. It is large so takes some time to get round it and do it justice. The craftsmanship inside is superb from the stone masonry to the tiled floors and the wooden carving to the stained glass.”

What is the ‘golden ratio’?

For centuries, artists have woven the ‘golden ratio’ into their creations, regarding it as the ultimate benchmark of natural aesthetic perfection.

By applying the ratio to measure buildings and iconic landmarks, experts have been able to determine which cities across the UK and the wider world can boast the most stunning architecture.

Other British cities that made the grade include London and Belfast, scoring 83% and 82.9% respectively.

On the global stage, Chester was closely followed by Venice, which scored 83.3%; Rome, with 82%; and the Spanish city of Barcelona rounding things off with 81.9% on the scale.