Wales

A 10-year-old girl who found an endangered Mexican axolotl while on holiday in Wales has told the BBC about the moment she found and caught the amphibian.

It is the first documented discovery of an axolotl in the wild in the UK, with only 50 to 1,000 left globally, according to experts.

Evie was playing in the shallows of the River Ogmore in Bridgend when she spotted the axolotl nestled in the rocks.

The family decided to cut their trip short to take the animal back to their home in Leicester, naming it Dippy as a tribute to where Evie found it.

“I think it’s a really nice change to the family,” Evie said about having Dippy.

Chris Newman, the National Centre for Reptile Welfare (NCRW) director, said the manner in which Dippy was found suggested its previous owner had released it due to a “change in circumstances”.

Bethan Lewis will lead Wales against England in the Women’s Six Nations on Saturday (14:15 BST) with fellow back rower Kate Williams ruled out through injury.

Williams came off in the second half of the 38-7 defeat by France last weekend with a leg problem and will miss Wales’ meeting with the world champions at Ashton Gate.

Alex Callender, Williams’ co-captain last year, is still recovering from an ankle injury.

Lewis led Wales against Canada at last summer’s World Cup and said: “It’s always a massive honour to put on the jersey and to be able to lead the girls out against England.”

The England game will come too soon for Wales centre Carys Cox, who was a late withdrawal from the France defeat after taking a knock in training, but head coach Sean Lynn says wing Seren Singleton is fit despite leaving the field with her arm in a sling.

He will name his side on Thursday morning.

Bern has scored two tries in each of England’s wins over Scotland and Ireland in the opening two rounds of the Six Nations.

She believes adding more try-scoring threats to England’s attack can be key to fuelling record crowds in the absence of opposition who can threaten their winning streak.

Ten of England’s 16 tries in the knockout stages of last year’s World Cup came via their forwards as they leaned on the power of their pack and set-piece en route to glory.

Lou Meadows, England’s attack coach at the time, had had some success with a more expansive gameplan,, external but left her post after the tournament.

Emily Scarratt, the Red Roses’ all-time leading points scorer, has since taken up the role.

“Where we’re trying to evolve to now is being threats from anywhere,” said Bern.

“We recognise that we won a World Cup, and it was great, but we definitely could have made improvements in our attack.

“We always talk about how even if something’s not broken, we can break it and start again. Just because it worked doesn’t mean we can’t change anything.

“We want people to come to the stadium and see something different every week.

“We want to be entertaining. We want to show that all of our Red Roses have amazing abilities to carry, fend and play an exciting style of rugby to showcase to the world.”

England face Wales, who have lost 11 of their past 12 Tests, at a sold-out Ashton Gate in Bristol on Saturday (14:15 BST kick-off).

Holidaying as a single parent is a tricky balance. You want to ringfence the kind of extended one-on-one time that can be difficult to find during term time; but too much of that and you know you’ll drive each other a little crazy. Kids need other kids, and you could do with some adult company too. You also need a break. It’s a nice idea to pack the car with camping gear and head out into the wilderness, but it can be a lot of work – and you end up in a field, attempting to put up a tent, alone.

Friends of mine have suggested holiday parks, some of them with bars and restaurants and a daily schedule of kids’ activities. That all sounds a bit overstimulating. I’d been dreaming about sinking into a quiet landscape. But would there be enough to do?

The potential answer came in the shape of One Cat Farm, a small nature reserve tucked in a remote valley in Ceredigion, west Wales, which may have the balance just right. Owners Jessie and Lyndon bought the old pig farm when they moved from London in 2013. Setting up a glamping site, running and raising it with three young children, a barely functioning bathroom and no internet was “not quite as fun” as they’d intended, they tell me, but they persevered, and after years of hard work it is – I soon discover – an incredibly special place.

The four cabins, which sleep two adults and up to three children, were designed and built by the couple and are spaced discreetly through the site. There’s a growing woodland (Jessie and Lyndon have planted more than 300 trees since moving here), a wild-swimming pond, and another where nature is left to do its thing. To the east are the Cambrian Mountains; to the west, the hidden beaches of Cardigan Bay – not that we see much of this when we first arrive, in the dark, having driven straight from school pickup. We’re met by Jessie, who shows us to our cabin, which (with double glazing and heating) is wonderfully warm. My six-year-old daughter can’t contain her excitement; she loves the cushions, the lights, the luxury bedding, and the enormous window through which we glimpse the last of the sunset. On discovering the bar of chocolate left as a welcome gift, she calls the place “paradise”.

I’m impressed by how much thought has gone into One Cat Farm. It is simple in the best kind of way, each detail carefully considered without ever feeling overbearing. On our first morning, we find pond-dipping equipment by the communal shed and head down to the water. We’ve dipped nets before without much success, but here the discoveries come thick and fast. There are newts and caddisfly larval cases, damselfly nymphs and water boatmen. Red kites wheel overhead. I strip down to my swimming costume and slip into the water; it is bitingly cold, and glorious. My daughter whoops. She’s standing by the reeds with a towel ready; I realise, with some surprise, that I’m feeling cared for, too.

Over the next few days we explore the nearby beaches, where there are resident dolphins and seals, along with miles of sand. We eat street food from the Manuka food van on the harbour wall in Aberaeron, and fresh pizza and gelato at Tafell a Tân in Llangrannog; we comb high-tide lines and peer into caves, discover mussels on rocky outcrops and stare up at sheer cliff faces. Walking the hedgerows, we forage pennywort and garlic mustard, and wild garlic in droves (Lyndon tells us to come back in autumn for the mushrooms, his favourite time of year).

It’s easy to be a visitor here, but Ceredigion faces challenges, with about 30% of children living in poverty. Jessie is keenly aware of this, and speaks passionately about the difference that places such as One Cat Farm are able to make to the local economy. “Our existence supports not just our family, but also two employees. And, because of our size, we don’t have onsite facilities like a cafe or pub, so guests go out and support local businesses.” She compares this model with those of bigger holiday sites, which are often run from afar by big businesses: “The difference between them and us is like comparing a big wealthy farm to a small subsistence farm.” Jessie and Lyndon clearly care deeply about what they do, and that the place is of benefit to the community and its wildlife.

It’s incredible to think how much must have changed here in the last decade or so, since the project began. By the pond, we spot an otter and a heron; there are rumours of polecats and a peregrine falcon. Crouching in the grass, a network of small tunnels becomes visible – evidence of voles and shrews, now permanent inhabitants.

I’m not always good at slowing down, but here it’s possible to do just that – even with a small person in tow. One night, she and I try the wood-fired outdoor baths; we soak (and splash) for hours, and watch the stars come out. It’s been ages since I’ve felt so relaxed, and so free to revel in my time with her.

While community is encouraged – there’s a communal kitchen and fire pit – it’s not enforced, and if you’ve come for quiet it is easy to be secluded. But before long my daughter has buddied up with the boys in the cabin down the slope, who are here with their dad. Soon they’re moving in a pack, playing on the rope swing, making clay models at our picnic table, drawing maps of the wood. As they head off again, I open a book, then stare at the hills, and yes, I think, it is a kind of paradise. This, I see now, is what we needed; not crowds, not endless choices and constant stimulation, but a bit of time to recoup, reconnect and get immersed in the world.

Accommodation was provided by One Cat Farm. Cabin rates start from £134 a night (sleeps two adults and up to three children), minimum two nights.

Ingle has come a long way since beginning her junior career with Vale Wanderers, a boys’ team in Barry.

She was forced to give up the sport when aged 12 because Football Association of Wales (FAW) rules meant she could no longer play with the boys.

Thankfully for Welsh football, Ingle returned to the pitch when her Vale Wanderers coach set up a girls’ team when she was 14.

She then played for Dinas Powys Ladies and Cardiff City Ladies before joining Chelsea for the first of two spells in 2012.

By that stage, Ingle was an established Wales international, having made her senior debut in a 2-1 World Cup qualifying defeat to Azerbaijan three years earlier, only a matter of weeks after her 18th birthday.

Ward scored Wales’ goal in Baku, with Ingle coming off the bench.

“It was a horrible game, horrible pitch, but this kid just made it look like she’d been doing it her whole life,” Ward remembers.

“She’s just a top player… technique is unbelievable, the way she reads a game, the way she can find a pass.

“She’s my favourite footballer in the world.”

Adrian Tucker was the manager who gave Ingle her first cap, in an era when the landscape was very different in women’s football.

“She was good technically but she was also really good on the physical side, which was a really big thing at that time,” he says.

“Did I think she would go on to win 150 caps? In 2009, I didn’t think Wales would play 150 games. We were struggling to get five games a season.

“But since then there has been a boom in women’s football and Sophie has been on the crest of that wave.”

All five of his Test appearances have been off the bench and he will look to feature against Barbarians, Fiji, Argentina and South Africa in June and July.

With Wales sweating on the availability of the injured Lake, Belcher is a contender along with Elias, fit-again Elliot Dee, Brodie Coghlan and clubmate Evan Lloyd.

“Everyone is playing well but there is also a hell of a battle here at Cardiff between me, Daf Hughes and Evan, while Tom Howe went really well for Wales Under-20s,” said Belcher.

“My main focus is on performing for Cardiff because if I don’t then there are very good players chomping at the bit.”

Of those rivals, physical teenager Howe is yet to make his senior debut but is already catching the eye.

“He was one of the shining lights for Wales Under-20s and if he keeps his head down and keeps doing what he is doing then he has a massive future,” said Belcher.

“It’s great to see a Cardiff boy doing what he did and he seems to be very down to earth. He is new to our environment but is a nice kid.”

Last month’s 6-1 victory over Montenegro in Llanelli was Wales’ first competitive success since they beat the Republic of Ireland in December 2024 to book a place at Euro 2025, the maiden women’s major championship in the nation’s history.

They were beaten in all three games at the tournament, with the trio of losses part of a 12-game winless run which ended last December courtesy of a creditable friendly win over Switzerland.

Having been boosted by the Swiss triumph, Wales maintained momentum thanks to Elise Hughes’ added-time equaliser against the Czechs, even if their performance in Uherske Hradiste was not wholly convincing.

And though Montenegro were swatted aside, Wilkinson was not entirely satisfied with her team’s display in that game either.

As a result, she believes there is room for improvement this week.

“Four points from the first window is not a bad thing at all – we’re very pleased with it,” she said.

“But I think there’s this step up that I expect from the team and our standards.

“I hope that no-one here has ever heard anything different from me… that performance is what I think I want to be judged on, because that leads to consistency which leads to real change.”

Should Lynn need any inspiration, he need not look far across the office.

Wales men’s head coach Steve Tandy helped his side end a three-year Six Nations losing streak with a final-round victory over Italy last month, while performances in defeat offered plenty of encouragement.

It is hoped the women can turn a similar corner in their campaign.

“I’ve worked really closely with Steve Tandy, I’ve been into his camp, it’s an open environment,” said Lynn.

“That’s what we’re about, supporting each other as a nation.”

Wales captain Kate Williams said: “We can be inspired by them [Wales men], but we’re not limited to what they’re doing as well.

“We’re looking internally about what we can do and finding confidence in ourselves to then be able to put out our own performance and write our own story.”

Inspiration has also been drawn from other Welsh sporting stars, including boxer Lauren Price who retained her world titles in Cardiff last weekend.

“Something like Saturday night inspired me massively,” Lynn said.

“We are one Wales and we are such a proud nation, that for me was who we are and what we’re about.”

Fly-half Sam Costelow will miss the rest of the Scarlets’ season after ankle surgery and faces a race to be fit for Wales’ Nations Championship campaign in July.

Costelow suffered the injury during Wales’ Six Nations defeat against Scotland in Cardiff in February which forced him to miss the final two games of the tournament.

The 25-year-old had been recalled to start against the Scots and was impressive in the narrow defeat before being forced off injured. Ospreys outside-half Dan Edwards returned for the rest of the competition.

Costelow will be absent for the final four games of the Scarlets’ season in the United Rugby Championship (URC) which finishes in mid-May.

He now faces a battle to be fit for Wales’ summer programme which starts with the uncapped international against Barbarians at Twickenham on 27 June.

It has been a breakthrough season for Coghlan who was named in Wales’ autumn squad and won his first cap as a replacement in the 73-0 defeat against South Africa in November 2025.

The former Wales U19 international was left out of the Six Nations squad but wants a Test return.

“It was incredible,” said Coghlan.

“When I did get my chance to get my cap, it was a special feeling, hard to explain, a lot of emotions and just felt incredibly proud.

“Growing up it’s your dream goal and that feeling is something now I want to keep chasing.

“I want to do everything I can to get back in there and represent my country, so hopefully I can get more caps in the future.”

Coghlan is being inspired by Dragons and Wales hooker Elliot Dee, who he is currently keeping out of the starting side.

“Elliot’s a legend and so supportive of me,” said Coghlan.

“He’s given me lots of tips over the last few years.

“He’s really competitive as well, so it’s what drives me to train harder. I want to try to push myself to do what he’s done.

“The amount of caps he’s had for Wales, the games he’s had for the Dragons, to have him in the group and to learn so much off him is class.”

Even if you don’t want to commit to island-life fulltime, it’s perfect for a weekend away

Picture your dream place to live. You may have conjured up images of an island with sandy beaches, clear waters and palm trees swaying in the breeze. If so, there is a slice of this island life closer to home than you might think (minus the palm trees).

Anglesey is the seventh largest island in the British Isles, covering an area of around 275 square miles. It’s known for its amazing beaches, which range from picturesque coves to vast sandy stretches. The island and many of its locations are frequently at the top of best-of travel lists and guides. Earlier this year, Time Out named Anglesey one of the best places to visit in the UK in 2026 and last year it was named the UK’s ‘best island’ by The Telegraph. Most recently, it was named one of the best places to live in the UK in 2026 by The Sunday Times, which described it as “a landscape of rolling greenery set against the cinematic, jagged backdrop of Snowdonia and the Llyn Peninsula”.

It goes on to mention that the town of Menai Bridge is home to the island’s best shops and restaurants with views that are a “delight”, while Beaumaris is the island’s “artistic anchor”. And it adds: “Aberffraw, Benllech and Trearddur Bay are lively seaside villages, and there’s wildness and warm community spirit to be found in more remote corners of the island.”

The Sunday Times guide is designed to showcase places to live and highlights the average house price on the island is £270,500 but for those who just fancy a taste of island life, then a holiday in Anglesey — or even a day or weekend trip — does the job. And the aforementioned Menai Bridge is a great place to stay if you fancy the hustle and bustle of town life.

In fact, this year the Menai Suspension Bridge celebrates its 200th anniversary so there’s no better time to visit. Designed by Thomas Telford, the bridge reaches 1,265ft long with a central span of 579ft and is an impressive sight to behold.

In Beaumaris you’ll find pastel-coloured buildings and the impressive Beaumaris Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by Edward I with his architect James of St George, it followed on from the castles of Conwy, Caernarfon and Harlech. The fortress was huge with near-perfect symmetry but a lack of money and trouble in Scotland meant the castle was abandoned. But its magnificent walls still stand.

Anglesey’s beaches are a must for any visitor. In fact, given the coastline stretches for 125 miles, it’s pretty hard to avoid them. Close to the village of Aberffraw in the south west, you’ll find Traeth Mawr, a vast sandy beach backed by powdery dunes with gorgeous views over the mainland.

The beach connects to the Anglesey Coastal Path, a long distance coastal path which, as you’ve guessed, follows much of the island’s coastline. It takes around 12 days to complete, but obviously you can select shorter sections to do.

Of course, The Sunday Times does shine a light on one of Anglesey’s most scenic locations: Newborough Beach and the tidal Llanddwyn Island with its rolling sand dunes and rock outcrops. This “stunning spot” is a place steeped in legend and home to the remains of St Dwynwen’s Church, named after the Welsh patron saint of lovers, who fled to the island after she was forbidden to marry the man she loved.

Newborough Forest is a spectacular site in itself with towering corian pines growing beside the sand dunes of Newborough Warren. It’s also the perfect spot to see red squirrels, after they were introduced in 2004.

Wales open their campaign against Scotland, who crushed their World Cup hopes last summer in a sobering opening match.

In fact, Wales have not tasted victory over their Celtic rivals in more than three years, but George says Saturday will be far from a grudge match.

“It doesn’t matter who we’re coming up against in the first week, it’s the first game, so we really want to try and put a stamp down,” she said.

“It’s a fresh start, we’ve got new coaches coming in and a different style of playing.

“It’s the same for them, they’ve got new coaches. We don’t really know what they’re going to bring, but we’re concentrating on ourselves as much as we can. Obviously we’ll look a little bit at them, but the onus is on us.”

This unique Airbnb offers an out of this world experience. Not only do you sleep inside a UFO, even going to the loo takes you on a sci-fi adventure thanks to the TARDIS-shaped toilet

If you’re driving through the countryside in Pembrokeshire and spot what looks like an alien aircraft that has landed on Earth, don’t panic. You’re not about to get abducted by aliens, but you may have just stumbled across a unique Airbnb.

Tucked down a narrow country road near the Welsh village of Templeton is the Melin Mabes glamping site. It offers three unique experiences in the middle of the countryside: a traditional caravan, a treehouse, and the oddest option, the Spodnic UFO. Once featured on George Clarke’s Amazing Spaces, this galactic-themed experience is set in a small fibreglass building that the owners bought on eBay.

The ‘UFO’ started life as a structure built for London’s 2012 Olympics and used to house generators, and when the owners picked it up off the auction site, they added their own touches to create a unique staycation spot. Now you can book a stay via Airbnb or the Melin Mabes website.

Inside, the pod has been completely transformed with silver walls, sci-fi memorabilia and lots of fun touches. It features a double bed and a set of bunk beds, so four guests can share the space, alongside an inflatable alien.

At the centre of the pod is a ladder that leads to a platform with a glass dome. From here, you can use a telescope for a spot of stargazing or enjoy views of the Welsh countryside. Outside, there’s a kitchen area under cover that includes a fridge, cooker, and running water, as well as a table and chairs.

But perhaps the most fun feature is the bathroom, which is set within a replica TARDIS box. It has a private shower, toilet, and sink, so you don’t have to deal with morning queues at a shower block.

Next to the Spodnic, you’ll also find a private hot tub and outdoor shower, and the outside space is enclosed, so you can also bring your furry friends and let them run around.

This unusual Airbnb is just a few minutes from the village, where you’ll find a cosy pub and some cottages. Just down the road is the Folly Farm Adventure Park and Zoo, a wholesome family-friendly attraction that has fairground rides, a small zoo, a farm, and adventure play activities such as toy diggers. Folly Farm also offers accommodation such as lodges and glamping, and guests get unlimited free attraction entry during their stay.

About a 15-minute drive away is Saundersfoot Beach, a long sandy Blue Flag beach that has clear, shallow waters, making it popular with families on sunny days. At one end is a working harbour, where you’ll see small boats coming in, and there’s a historic lighthouse you can visit. Just steps from the harbour, you can enjoy freshly-caught seafood in one of the many local restaurants.

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Having done more than most to step into the boots of talisman Gareth Bale, Harry Wilson still has time on his side.

The forward, who has scored 17 international goals, will be 31 when the Euros come around and there is no real reason why he cannot build on the brilliant form he has shown this season.

With Wilson being tipped to leave Fulham at the end of his contract this summer, Wales and Bellamy will cross fingers he picks the right club from what is expected to be a lengthy list of suitors.

Former England captain Wayne Rooney recently suggested Wilson fitted Fulham perfectly and wondered whether he would get lost at one of the Premier League’s top clubs.

It would be natural for Liverpool academy graduate Wilson to want to test himself at the highest level possible, but Wales will certainly want to feel the benefit of him being a certain starter with his club side.

Where Harry heads might well be significant.

Northern Ireland manager Michael O’Neill praised the “character” of his side in Tuesday’s 1-1 draw in Wales.

Both Wales and Northern Ireland lost their respective World Cup play-offs to set up the friendly that nobody wanted.

Jamie Donley scored a deserved opener but Wales hit back less than 60 seconds after the restart as Sorba Thomas tucked home.

Eoin Toal and Callum Marshall had chances to snatch victory, but it was the response to the equaliser which impressed O’Neill as his young side bounced back from the World Cup defeat by Italy with a solid performance in Cardiff.

“The team has good resilience because at the end of the day, as much as we sat deep and it was difficult for us to get out in the last 20 minutes, we still had an opportunity to win the game,” O’Neill, who also hit back at concerns over a conflict of interest with his dual role with Blackburn Rovers.

“To come away, with the age profile of the team and where the team is at this minute at time, and not be beaten here was a real positive.”

O’Neill added it was “a good night’s work for us” as he “asked a huge amount” of young players in a second half that was littered with substitutions, but Northern Ireland deserved their draw in Cardiff.

He handed a debut to 19-year-old defender Tom Atcheson, who plays under him at Blackburn Rovers, but Liverpool’s Kieran Morrison did not make his senior bow as O’Neill made eight substitutions.

“He’s a very young player. I think he’s shown up well in the camp all week,” O’Neill said on Atcheson.

“We would have liked to have got Kieran Morrison on the pitch as well at some point, but you wouldn’t have been able to do it without having to take a sub that you put on, off again, without asking someone to play in a position which was totally alien to them.

“Given the number of substitutions we made, we’re pleased with the response we got from the players.”

The park is considered the largest in the UK, and among the biggest in Europe, and it’s packed with activities and things for kids to do, perfect for a last-minute Easter or half-term break

Holiday parks can be a great choice for families. Staying in a caravan or lodge means you get more space than the average hotel room, and just steps away from your accommodation you can enjoy the park’s entertainment and activities.

If you like a holiday park with a lively atmosphere and plenty to do, then there’s one option that could be perfect for your family break. Widely considered to be the largest holiday park in the UK, Trecco Bay Holiday Park in Porthcawl, South Wales, has over 2,000 caravans and lodges in its beachfront park, and it’s also among the largest in Europe.

Guests can choose from a wide range of two to four-bedroom caravans and lodges with a variety of accommodation grades from Bronze to Prestige. There are even pet-friendly options for those who want to bring their dog along to join in the fun. All accommodation includes a living area, a fully-equipped kitchen, and separate bedroom areas. You can check availability and book via Parkdean’s website.

The park has a large indoor pool complex, which includes a waterslide, and outside, you’ll find a wet play zone complete with shoots and water guns that opens in the warmer months. Families can book activities such as Aqua Paddlers, which allow kids to race around the pool, and Aqua Jets, which help you dive and swim under the water.

A high-ropes course is a fun way to balance and swing through the tree tops, or you can hire Family Karts and zip around the park together. There’s also an adventure playground, amusement arcade, soft play, plus kids’ clubs to keep little ones entertained.

While you can choose to stay in and cook in your caravan, the park has lots of restaurants, bars, and takeaways if you feel like a night off. Guests can enjoy a Burger King or Papa John’s, or family favourites at the Boathouse. There’s an Indian menu at Tandoori Kitchen, and American-style cuisine at Thunderbird Chicken among the many dining options.

Trecco Bay sits on a sandy beach, and some accommodation has sea views. This Blue Flag beach is just steps from the park and has lifeguards during peak periods, so kids can paddle and swim in the clear waters. The promenade is the perfect place for coastal walks, and you can even walk along the Wales Coast Path to nearby Porthcawl for a day trip.

The park has a 4.2 star rating on Google, with one recent review saying: “Lots of activities for the kids! High ropes, climbing wall and sport activities are great choices! Pool was fab.” However, one negative review said: “We left a day early. I had booked three nights, but we left the next morning because of the filth and the strong smell. With the cold weather, we had to open the windows because the smell was awful.”

Porthcawl has classic seaside town vibes, and here you’ll find more beaches, a charming local museum, a historic lighthouse, and a high street with independent shops and colourful terraced houses. If you’d rather stay closer to the town, there are B&Bs available such as Olivia House Guest House And Hotel which has a quirky interior, and the beachfront Seabank Hotel.

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Sit on the left when you catch the train from Swansea to Carmarthen, and you can watch huge sandy estuaries unspool outside the window. There’s a curlew standing by the water, an egret-haunted pool in the wetlands, and a boardwalk along the foreshore, part of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path. It has been a six-hour, four-train journey to get here from Essex, but I’ll soon be on foot.

Carmarthenshire has picturesque railways, a network of buses, and some epic long-distance paths, so it makes for an ideal car-free break. The 13-mile Tywi Valley Path (officially opening in time for Easter) will link Abergwili near Carmarthen and Ffairfach near Llandeilo, helping walkers and cyclists access some lovely scenery. I’m visiting just before Saint David’s Day, and there are daffodils everywhere. Carmarthenshire offers a quintessentially Welsh experience, packed with castles, cockles and cawl (stew).

As I set off from Ferryside station, there’s a view of the ruined 12th-century Llansteffan Castle across the estuary. The Three Rivers hotel and spa, where I’m due to stay tonight, is 10 minutes into my walk. I drop off my bag and press on, feeling buoyant. I’m heading for Kidwelly, five miles from Ferryside along a hilly, inland stretch of coast path.

I’m soon winding down through mossy, snowdrop-beaded woods, where primroses glimmer in banks of ferns and bluebells are sprouting. When I walk up to the lane above, sudden sunshine lights the distant sea, and the veiny salt marsh is fretted with silver. Offshore winds have trimmed the trees slantwise, neat as a fresh fade from a stylish barber. The paths are still boggy in places, and there are no other walkers until the final, tarmacked half-mile, where teal and redshank pipe from the mud-banked River Gwendraeth.

Kidwelly Castle (£8.50 adults, £5.90 kids) is a maze of wall walks, spiral stairs and cavernous towers with views across sepia reed beds. Gwenllian, who led a Welsh army against the Normans in the 12th century, fought her final battle nearby. Newest among Kidwelly’s pubs and cafes, Y Barbican opened in November 2025; it offers armchairs and freshly made cakes – worth the uphill walk from the castle.

There’s a regular train service between Kidwelly and Ferryside, but bus 198 runs directly back to my hotel, where I head to the spa. A mural by the pool, painted by owner Jackie Cavill, mirrors the view outside: hilltop Llansteffan Castle, framed by gulls and oystercatchers. Through the windows, the sun sets behind a tall Scots pine.

The next morning, I stroll to the station along the low-tide beach. Wintering ducks and geese gather on seaweed-blanketed sandbanks. Today’s destination is the 230-hectare National Botanic Garden of Wales (NBGW), where car-free visitors get 50% off entry (full price £19 adults, £10 kids). It’s an hour or so’s cycle from Carmarthen, mostly on route 47 of the UK’s National Cycle Network. Brompton bikes are available to hire at Carmarthen bus station, but the drizzle is becoming torrential …

Bus 279 runs four times a week from Carmarthen to NBGW, and there’s one due in an hour. Cash-only Pantri Blakeman, up some stairs opposite the bus station, is a great place to wait. There’s a daffs-and-dragons frieze around the walls and a menu offering cockles and bacon on toast with laverbread and leek cawl.

The landscaped grounds of NBGW are cheerful, even in the pouring rain, with blossom, birdsong and thousands of spring bulbs. In the Tropical House, there are banana palms, bugle plants and bright flamingo lilies. Outside, dunnocks hop around heavy-headed hellebores and bullfinches feast on lakeside buds. Several sparrows chirrup noisily from the olives in the world’s largest single-span glasshouse. Designed by Foster + Partners, the Great Glasshouse houses more than 1,000 species of Mediterranean plant, soft fronds of scarlet honey myrtle, yellow-flowered cassia and fresh-scented Christmas heather among them. I just have time for a mustardy rarebit in the cafe before heading back to the bus.

The rain has stopped when I get off near Abergwili and walk the last bit of the Tywi Valley Path, a traffic-free, well-kept stretch of road alongside a former railway track. It leads to the Bishop’s Park, where the oxbow lake and ornamental evergreens attract siskins, goldcrests, grebes and slate-blue nuthatches. The old bishop’s palace is home to Carmarthenshire Museum (free). In Carmarthen, two miles west, I’m staying in the delightfully time-warped Falcon hotel. Close to the bus station, it offers cockles au gratin for dinner and cheese-and-leek sausages with a veggie breakfast.

The next morning, I take bus 280 through green countryside to the colourful market town of Llandeilo, near the eastern end of the Tywi Valley Path. There are views of wooded Merlin’s Hill, topped with an iron age fort, and the dramatic ruins of Castell Dryslwyn (free).

Castell Dinefwr (free), in the sprawling Dinefwr park next to Llandeilo, was once home to Lord Rhys, whose peaceful rule led to a flowering of Welsh music and poetry. I drop in to Pitchfork & Provision in Llandeilo, then head through bluebell woods to the hidden Llandyfeisant church, half overgrown with ivy, and the atmospheric castle ruins, on a wooded hill above the River Tywi.

The estate’s 18th-century owners landscaped the park with trees and waterways. A boardwalk among ferns and catkins leads to little waterfalls, slopes of pungent wild garlic, and a bird hide overlooking the lake. I stop to warm up in the National Trust cafe at Newton House (£12 adults, £6 kids), with a garden full of tulips. The guy in the cafe hands out Saint David’s Day postcards with a recipe for Welsh cakes.

Back at Pitchfork & Provision, the owner Rachel Mabbitt tells me how the business has expanded from a bakery, founded with a friend during lockdown, to include a popular cafe and deli. A perfectly cooked bowl of vegetable cawl comes with tangy Pitchfork cheddar, and the bara brith (spiced tea bread) is gooey and delicious. It’s a 10-minute walk to Llandeilo station, where trains on the scenic Heart of Wales line stop five times a day (twice on Sundays). The railway rolls towards Swansea past hilly woods, soft reed beds and the winding River Loughor.

The trip was supported by Discover Carmarthenshire. Some transport was provided by Great Western Railway (advance tickets from Swansea to Carmarthen start at £8.10; £39.50 from London Paddington). Accommodation was provided by Three Rivers hotel and spa (B&B doubles from £120) and Falcon hotel and restaurant (B&B doubles from £110)

Wales host Northern Ireland in a friendly on Tuesday, a match that nobody wants.

The fixture is having to take place because both teams lost their World Cup play-off semi-finals on Thursday, against Bosnia-Herzegovina and Italy respectively.

So, while the winners of those ties face each other in Zenica for a place at this summer’s tournament in the United States, Canada and Mexico, the losers must meet in Cardiff.

The game will provide fringe players with a chance to impress their bosses, Craig Bellamy and Michael O’Neill, who are understandably keen to stress the value of this encounter.

But for the fans and anyone else associated with these teams, this is a tough sell.

“For the supporters, it’s a complete dead rubber. It is one of the most ridiculous things I’ve ever heard – it’s pointless,” was the blunt assessment from former Northern Ireland midfielder Chris Brunt.

The reality, however, is that international football’s governing bodies have decreed the game must go ahead, whether anyone likes it or not.

Just like last year and the year before, Wales’ Six Nations opener is against Scotland.

Wales had the upper hand in the Celtic clash up until 2023, but have failed to win in their past few encounters, including a sobering defeat at the World Cup.

The two sides will meet again at the Principality Stadium on Saturday, 11 April (16:40 BST).

“They’ve got to be one of our biggest rivalries,” admitted Williams.

“A few years ago it was us on top and they’ve really turned it around. They’re one of our biggest challenges and one of the games that we’re going to go after.

“We do want to write some wrongs [from the World Cup].

And Williams insists they have the calibre of players to be able to beat the Scots.

“It is a big match, but these are the big moments that we’re excited to play. This is what we want to do as rugby players,” she added.

“I wouldn’t call it a grudge match or anything, but we’re looking to beat as many teams as possible, Scotland being one of them.”

After Scotland, Wales host France at Cardiff Arms Park on 18 April before travelling to face reigning champions England at Ashton Gate a week later.

A trip to Belfast follows to take on Ireland after the fallow week before Wales finish their campaign back at the Arms Park against Italy on 17 May.

Among those individuals is Tyrone Holmes, who was appointed Wales’ new defence coach after three years in the same role with Scotland.

Lynn says he has been very impressed with the South Africa-born former flanker and expects to see a “big improvement” in that area, especially with Holmes being full-time.

“It’s what we will be needing to be competitive,” said Lynn, who admits his side were “bullied off the park” in their World Cup opener against Scotland.

Brython Thunder coach Ashley Beck will attempt to revive Wales’ stale attack, while Exeter Chiefs head coach Steve Salvin will be working with the forwards on an interim basis.

“It’s new voices, new faces and big energy,” said Lynn.

“What we’re going after is that consistency, every coach who’s coming in is making sure that we are following the process.

“I want us to be more hard-working, competitive, and when you’re in those competitive games and you find those winning moments, those game-changing moments, that’s where I feel this team can grow.”