Valley

I stayed in the beautiful British valley that locals want to keep a secret

WANDERING through the garden of Wastwater Cottage, the only sounds I hear are birdsong, the occasional bleat from a Herdwick lamb and the brook at the end of the garden.

The 15th-century four-bedroom farmhouse is the perfect pick for an off-grid break in the British countryside.

The Lake District hosts some of England’s most striking scenery Credit: Getty
Jess stayed at Wastwater Cottage in wild and remote Eskdale Credit: Supplied

My partner Owain and I had initially come to the Lake District with the ambitious plan of tackling some of the biggest mountains in the national park.

But upon arriving in the Cumbrian village of Boot, we were immediately sidetracked.

On our doorstep were two fantastic pubs — The Boot and Brook House — as well as a gift shop and the oldest working water mill in the UK.

Our accommodation was via Bridge End Farm Cottages, which has several luxury self-catering homes in the Eskdale Valley — one of the UK’s best Dark Sky spots.

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Our cottage featured rear doors on to a garden, which meant twinkling stars could be easily admired at night.

And each morning we would tuck into breakfast croissants outside as we watched birds of prey hunting on the mountain in front of us.

Inside were stacks of boardgames, as well as Sky TV and a grand piano.

But the highlight of the property was undoubtedly its location.

The Cumbrian Mountains from Wastwater are a sight to behold, while the lake is the deepest in England Credit: Getty
Stop by at picturesque Ambleside, which you can access via a quick boat trip Credit: Getty

From our doorstep, we could embark on dozens of walks over the Western Fells.

These include one from spectacular Wastwater lake, the deepest in England, to Stanley Ghyll waterfall — or another up England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike.

We started our weekend by following the brook down to the River Esk, walking through luscious green forests that are home to native red squirrels.

Children will be sure to love the stepping stones across to the opposite bank.

Of a warm summer’s day, there are also dozens of natural swimming pools to cool off in after a day exploring.

If you head in the opposite direction from the cottage, you can take a footpath up to the ancient White Moss stone circle and enjoy spectacular views of Scafell Pike — without the challenging four-hour hike up to its summit.

En route, we passed hundreds of the Herdwick sheep that live on the mountains year-round.

It turns out this hardy breed was saved from decline by Peter Rabbit author Beatrix Potter, who bred her own flocks in the area.

From here we made a descent into Eskdale, which is a slightly larger village about three miles from Boot.

The village is home to a fantastic — and unexpected — Japanese garden, adorned with maple trees and exotic plants.

Take the trip on the Ravenglass to Eskdale Railway through the countryside Credit: Getty
The railway was built in 1873 and the steam trains run daily – even serving afternoon tea Credit: Alamy

An ornate footbridge over a pond is the centrepiece, and despite being on the steep side, the walk around takes only 15 minutes.

With slightly sore legs, we decided to take the vintage steam train from Eskdale back to Boot and our holiday home.

The Eskdale-to-Ravenglass railway was built in 1873 to transport iron ore mined in the valley to the coastline, but nowadays the trains run daily as an attraction, with afternoon tea available to pre-book.

In a charming tradition, passengers must flag down the driver to board, which really adds to the fun.

If you do want to travel somewhere that’s not reachable on foot, car is by far the easiest method of transport. We used Turo (think Airbnb for cars) to rent a vehicle at a much lower cost than a mainstream service.

Driving around, you’ll likely see some pretty cool spots.

Our route took us via the UK’s steepest road, Hardknott Pass — and about halfway up we came across a fabulous 2nd-century Roman fort.

It was well worth getting out to explore, as its walls are the best preserved of any ancient fort in Britain — and free to admire.

For nature lovers, the wonderful Lake District Wildlife Park, just over an hour away from the cottage by car, is home to more than 100 species of birds and mammals, both native and exotic.

Grizedale Forest is definitely one for the kids, featuring a Gruffalo orienteering trail, plus a Go Ape high-ropes centre and the Grizedale Observatory.

There are also boat trips across Windermere, which run every day from Ambleside.

The latter is close to the Beatrix Potter Museum and boasts dozens of boutique shops and cafes.

One of the beauties of staying in the Eskdale Valley is you can tick off all these main attractions but still stay away from the crowds.

As one local whispered to us about the valley’s beauty and tranquillity: “Don’t tell anyone about it.”

I hope she’ll forgive me before I return.

GO: Lake District

STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering at the eight-person Wastwater Cottage is from £875.

See premiercottages.co.uk.

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‘Wheeling through vineyards and chateaux country’: an ebike tour of France’s Loire valley | France holidays

As I cycle in golden light through the Loire’s vineyards, I have the sudden wish to wear a flowing floral dress, tuck a sunflower behind my ear and answer only to the name Delphine. Opulent chateaux, honeyed stone villages, blazing fields of sunflowers … the Loire is so ridiculously and relentlessly beautiful it’s no wonder artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Émile Vernon made it their home.

A short zip across to Paris on the Eurostar and then an hour south on the TGV to Saint-Pierre-des-Corps and it feels as if we’ve stepped into a live JMW Turner landscape (he toured the region in 1826).

As a fair-weather cyclist – no hills and only in sunshine – I’ve never fancied a proper cycling holiday. However, my partner, Toby, is a keen mountain biker. Our compromise? A self-guided ebike tour through the Loire valley with Cycling for Softies (the clue’s in the name).

The ancient river port town of Candes-Saint-Martin. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

A short taxi ride takes us to our starting point, Château du Rivau, a Renaissance beauty in Lémeré, where Joan of Arc is said to have collected her horses before the siege of Orléans in 1429. After we enjoy a glass of chilled local rosé and a potter around the gardens, Quintin from Cycling for Softies arrives with our ebikes (offered as an upgrade on normal touring bikes for a few euros a day) and talks us through the itinerary. We’ll cover about 100 miles (160km) over the next three days, cycling along the river, through vineyards and to towns such as Langeais and Azay-le-Rideau, with plenty of time to stop along the way.

The chateau, which has been lovingly restored by Patricia and Éric Laigneau since 1992, hosts a contemporary art gallery in its ancient turrets. Here, classics are reimagined by modern artists – Pierre Ardouvin’s playful Ile Mona, Jeff Koons’s inspired hunting trophies and Sabine Pigalle’s Dutch Last Supper. There’s also a room devoted to Joan of Arc.

Tonight’s dinner is in the Jardin Secret, the chateau’s gourmet restaurant led by Andrea Modesto, once second-in-command to globally revered chef and restaurateur Joël Robuchon. In a candlelit gazebo, we feast like royalty on stuffed courgette flowers, roast duck with cherries, and a platter of local cheeses, all washed down with an excellent bottle of chinon.

Tracey Davies cycling in the Loire valley

After breakfast the next morning, we wave goodbye to Château du Rivau and our luggage, as Quintin takes care of that. We’re eased in gently – today is just 27 miles – and Toby takes the lead with the help of the on-bike GPS. The route couldn’t be simpler, and within minutes we’re following the cycle path and wheeling through heavenly vineyards and past honeysuckle-draped farmhouses. We soon join La Loire à Vélo, the 560-mile cycling route tracing the river from Nevers to the Atlantic, the first section of which was opened in 2005.

After an hour or so, we arrive at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers in Candes-Saint-Martin, one of the Loire’s ancient river port towns, and stop for a beer at La P’tite Vienne. Basking in the sun on the banks of the river, it’s so nice that we stay for another. And then order lunch. With wine. Before the pastis menu distracts me further, we grab our bikes and potter around the town with its dusty brocantes, fromageries and wine caves.

We tear ourselves away to cycle on through more vineyards and fields of spent sunflowers, heads bowed. It’s late afternoon when we roll into Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, one of France’s Plus Beaux Villages and Petites Cités de Caractère, and L’Hôtel de Fontevraud L’Ermitage, our resting place for the night.

Founded in the 12th century, and now a Unesco world heritage site, Fontevraud Abbey is the final resting place of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and Richard the Lionheart. Set in the grounds of the great abbey, the four-star hotel is light, contemporary and has an almost monastic vibe. The Michelin-starred restaurant is closed on a Monday, but we enjoy a gorgeous picnic prepared by the chefs in the candlelit gardens. Guests of L’Ermitage are also allowed to wander around the hauntingly beautiful abbey after dark.

Day two, and we’re getting the hang of this cycling lark. After breakfast, we leave our cases to be picked up and taken to our next hotel, and set out on today’s 34-mile route. We cross back over the Loire and pick up the riverside cycle path towards Château d’Ussé, a huge and heavily turreted castle said to have inspired Charles Perrault’s fairytale Sleeping Beauty.

I love how easy it is to just ebb and flow with the day. Our route is mostly traffic-free as we drift past copses of poplar trees and weeping willows whose boughs touch the flowing river below, the air scented with cut hay and apples. We fall into an easy routine of cycling for an hour before stopping for a beer. Another burst of energy and a dozen or more kilometres before lunch, which is often long and leisurely.

The geometric gardens of Château de Villandry.

From Ussé, we cruise on quiet country lanes banked by cliffs dotted with ancient and often forgotten wine cellars to Château de Rochecotte, near Langeais, our home for the next two nights. Elegant, regal almost, with ethereal views across the valley, it feels utterly indulgent. Dinner is a lavish affair: fresh langoustine, locally bred roi rose pork and crème brûlée.

On our last day, we clock up 37 miles, largely without breaking a sweat thanks to the ebikes. We wind our way through medieval river towns such as Azay-le-Rideau, past apple and cherry orchards to Château de Villandry. Built in the 16th century by Jean Le Breton, this glorious Renaissance pile was the last of the grand chateaux to be built along the Loire. One of the highlights is its tiered, geometric gardens, which were restored in the early 20th century by Joachim Carvallo. Wandering around the harp-shaped box bushes in the ornamental garden, the maze and the water garden shaped like a Louis XV-style mirror, I think Delphine would be happy here, especially if she could keep her ebike.

The trip was provided by Cycling for Softies; its four-night Loire in Luxury trip costs from £1,510 per person, including half-board accommodation, bike rental with ebike upgrades available (£20 a day), luggage transfers and route information

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Prep talk: Former San Fernando Valley tennis players lead Mission College to state title

Five years ago, longtime baseball coach Joe Cascione left coaching the sport to start a women’s tennis team at Mission College.

On Wednesday, Mission College won the state women’s tennis championship armed with local players from Kennedy, Granada Hills, Sylmar and Birmingham high schools, among others.

It’s quite an achievement to win it all with local athletes.

Key contributors included Amy Nghiem, Priscilla Grinner and America Fragoso from Granada Hills; Jaelyn Rivera from Birmingham; Josilyn Rivera and Natalia Ponce from Kennedy; Alitzel Ortega Partida from Golden Valley; Genesis Nochez from West Ranch and Kristen Bonzon from Sylmar.

Cascione singled out his players for their passion and commitment.

This is a daily look at the positive happenings in high school sports. To submit any news, please email eric.sondheimer@latimes.com.

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Prep sports roundup: Sylmar takes three-game lead in Valley Mission League baseball

Sylmar coach Ray Rivera is smiling. His favorite major league team, the San Francisco Giants, beat the Dodgers twice this week with great pitching. And his favorite high school team, the Spartans, swept a two-game series from Sun Valley Poly with their own great pitching to move three games up in the Valley Mission League race with four to play.

Sylmar pitchers gave up no runs in 14 innings this week. After Matthew Torres threw a no-hitter on Monday against Poly, Alex Martinez took the ball Thursday and recorded six shutout innings in a 10-0 win over the Parrots. He gave up three hits and struck out five.

Tim Sepulveda finished with three hits. Sylmar is 17-6 and 10-1 in league.

Verdugo Hills 10, San Fernando 4: Anthony Velasquez had a two-run double and finished with three RBIs for the Dons.

El Camino Real 5, Chatsworth 1: Ryan Glassman had two hits and two RBIs and Shane Bogacz finished with two hits, including an RBI double, for El Camino Real. Hudson December gave up one hit in five innings.

Taft 5, Cleveland 2: Victor Jara had a two-run single to lead the Toreadors.

Bell 3, Garfield 1: Jayden Rojas struck out six in six innings. He also had two hits.

Sherman Oaks Notre Dame 8, Sierra. Canyon 5: The Knights ended a six-game losing streak. Jake Noroian had three hits and Jacob Madrid homered.

Alta Loma 2, South Hills 0: Logan Stein threw a one-hit shutout.

Thousand Oaks 4, Westlake 3: Preston Lee contributed an RBI single to break a 3-3 tie in the seventh and lift Thousand Oaks to victory.

Oaks Christian 6, Agoura 5: The Lions scored two runs in the bottom of the seventh to win. Ryan Sheffer tied it with an RBI single and KJ Henrich won it with an RBI single. Carson Sheffer finished with two doubles. Tyler Starling homered for Agoura.

Villa Park 4, La Serna 0: Logan Hoppie struck out six and gave up two hits in six innings.

Aliso Niguel 3, San Clemente 1: Chad Alderman threw a complete game and Henry Drews had three hits.

Softball

Anaheim Canyon 4, Garden Grove Pacifica 1: Kelsey Perez struck out 11 for Canyon.

Carson 4, San Pedro 3: Ashannalee Titialii had two hits and Simi Mafoe homered for Carson.

Chaminade 7, Sierra Canyon 4: Siena Greenlinger had two hits and two RBIs.

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Sun Valley Poly High’s Fabian Bravo shows flashes of Koufax dominance

Watching junior right-hander Fabian Bravo of Sun Valley Poly High pitch for the first time, there was something strangely familiar about his windup.

When he turned his back to reveal he was wearing No. 32, everything made sense.

He had to be a fan of Sandy Koufax, the 1960s Hall of Fame left-hander for the Dodgers.

Two friends sitting next to me refused to believe it.

“No way,” one said.

“Kids today have never heard of Sandy Koufax,” another piped in.

Only after Bravo threw a three-hit shutout to beat North Hollywood 3-0 was my belief vindicated.

“I come into the back with my arms and it’s a little bit like a Sandy Koufax kind of thing,” he said. “I wear 32 too. He was the starting pitcher for the Dodgers and was good in the World Series.”

Koufax was perfect-game good on Sept. 9, 1965, against the Chicago Cubs at Dodger Stadium, striking out 14.

Bravo started learning about No. 32 when his parents would bring him to Dodger Stadium as a young boy.

“I always saw No. 32 retired on the wall,” he said. “Once I got to know him, I was able to see who he really was. I felt I could really copy him and get myself deeper into history.”

Bravo is no Koufax in terms of being a power pitcher. He’s 5 feet 10 and 140 pounds. Since last season, when he changed his windup to briefly emulate Koufax’s arms going above his head, he has a 12-3 record. This season he’s 3-1 with a 1.50 ERA.

“I saw his windup and he looked like he was calm and composed and I tried it. I felt more of a rhythm. I was able to calm down and pitch better,” he said.

After Bravo’s arms go up over his head in his windup, he also does a brief hesitation breathing in and out before throwing the ball toward home plate.

“My dad always taught me to breathe in, breathe out before I do anything,” he said.

Nowadays, teenagers seemingly don’t pay much attention to greats of the past, from old ballplayers to Hall of Fame coaches. Ask someone if they know John Wooden, kids today probably don’t. He did win 10 NCAA basketball titles coaching for UCLA. And who was Don Drysdale? Only a Dodger Hall of Fame pitcher alongside Koufax from Van Nuys High.

Bravo is fortunate he’s seen Dodger broadcasts mentioning Koufax at the stadium and on TV, motivating him to learn more, which led to seeing his windup on YouTube.

His older brother also wore No. 32, so no one was getting that uniform number other than a Bravo brother at Poly.

There is another Bravo set to arrive in the fall. Julian Bravo will be a freshman left-handed pitcher and wants No. 32.

“While I’m there he’s going to have to find a new number,” Fabian Bravo said.

Julian might also want to help his big brother gain a few pounds at the dinner table.

“My brother takes food from me,” he said.

As for recognizing Bravo’s Koufax connection, it was No. 32 that provided the clue. How many pitchers in the 1970s were choosing No. 32? A lot. And it’s great to see a 17-year-old in 2026 paying tribute to one of the greatest pitchers ever.

Emulating Koufax is hard, but forgetting him is unforgivable.



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