Underground

OUR Spotlight On column this week is chatting all things UK – this time the seaside town of Deal.

Based in Kent, the town has boomed in popularity in recent years as ex-Londoners ditch the city for the more laid-back life by the sea.

The Sun’s Deputy Travel Editor Kara Godfrey, who lives near Deal said: “I’m seriously impressed with the food scene – and that’s coming from someone who wouldn’t even class herself as a foodie.

“Some of the restaurants rival or even surpass London, yet retain it’s traditional, laidback ambience.

“Sure, you can get your arcade hit and fish and chips, but it has a great family feel too – and a beach so big you will never run be fighting for space”.

Here are some of her other top tips from bars to shops if deciding to visit Deal.

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MUST SEE/DO

The brutalist Deal Pier has been through three iterations – one in 1838, destroyed by a storm, followed by one in 1864 which lasted until World War II.

The current surviving structure was opened by the then-Duke of Edinburgh in 1957.

It is worth the windy walk to the end where you can stroll past men fishing over the walls, or to grab a coffee at Deal Kitchen Pier.

Otherwise save some time for exploring the pretty high street littered with independent shops and galleries – head into Hoxton Store for the best trinkets, or Don’t Walk Walk (intentional repetition) for some unique artwork.

HIDDEN GEM

Visit on Saturday mornings to catch the bustling market that takes over Union Road car park.

It dates back to 1699 and is the kind of market that is impossible to leave without picking up something.

From flowers and soaps to groceries and sweet treats, or just your classic antiques and bric a brac, it truly has it all.

Visit early – it opens at 8am in the summer – to avoid the crowds (and get the freshest cinnamon buns).

BEST VIEW

Where better for a view of the ocean than from Deal Castle?

Built by Henry VII as a sea defence system, walk up the steps to the bastions for uninterrupted seascapes.

Send any fussy kids to the underground passageways, where they can pretend to fight off invaders with wooden muskets.

English Heritage members visit for free (non-member adults pay £9.00, while kids between 5-17 pay £5. See english-heritage.org.uk)

RATED RESTAURANT

The Pelican is the place to be for the best food in town, where English seaside meets Japanese cuisine.

Skip the tables for one of the 10 bar stools surrounding the open kitchen to watch the chefs at work.

And come with an empty stomach so you can gorge on crab croquettes, pork katsu and bowls of freshly steamed rice.

Pop in on Thursdays and Sundays for their ramen menu, or nurse a sake martini downstairs in their Cellar Bar.

BEST BAR

Recently renovated, Le Pinardier will transport you straight to France.

The wine bar-cum-shop is one for taking pictures in, from the dusky pink striped cushions to the chequered tiles.

It has some of the best local wines and beers on tap, best chased by some oysters or charcuterie.

Fancy something more low key? Head to The Port Arms pub for traditional boozer vibes, and live music in the front beer garden in summer.

HOTEL PICK

The Rose hotel has won multiple awards since it opened in 2018.

With just eight rooms, it is stylish granny chic with floral wallpaper, grand velvet headboards and some even having rolltop baths.

Take advantage of the complimentary brandy nightcap as well as the free-to-use tandem bike for getting around town.

Or book a package that includes a spot of yoga and a massage at the sister The Pelicans Room.

Wake up to the sound of church bells before heading downstairs for a slap up breakfast at the restaurant – make sure to try the smoked salmon crumpet.

Rooms cost from £110 per night. See therosedeal.com

Why go now

In the south-west of Munich, Schlachthofviertel is an area in flux; a jarring district that is home to a theatre, a techno club and a controversial active slaughterhouse.

In the 1870s, after the final cholera epidemic in Munich, a municipal slaughterhouse (Schlachthof) was built on what was then the outskirts of the city as part of a wider effort to improve hygiene standards. Although it is still in use today, the site has dramatically decreased in capacity, and creative entrepreneurs have been quick to see the potential of unused spaces.

In 2021, the Münchner Volkstheater (People’s Theatre) moved to the area, bringing a new cultural status and sparking fears of accelerated gentrification. For me, it’s a part of town I go to for a change of scene or just a loaf of double-baked rye bread. In summer, the open-air spaces come out of hibernation and show a much edgier side to Munich.

Where to eat and drink

Today, butcher’s shops and cult dive bars sit side by side. There has been a flurry of openings; my favourite recent addition is the female-run Mari on Adlzreiterstraße, the street Albert Einstein lived on for much of his childhood. The airy cafe serves a late breakfast, including a Korean option of marinated tofu and miso mayonnaise.

The Brotatelier bakery operates from a shipping container, and bakers use equipment on wheels to maximise the limited space. From the cinnamon buns to the French fougasse bread, all products are prepared with sourdough. “Everybody has time here; we haven’t had a single customer who was stressed or anything like that,” says co-founder Christof Teriete, whose bigger concern is the impact of the fluctuating container temperatures on the sourdough starters.

For drinks, start at Frisches Bier, run by craft brewer Tilman Ludwig. He has his own beers on tap, along with a small selection of other independent labels, such as Bierol from Tirol and Hoppebräu from southern Bavaria.

Cultural experiences

On one side of Zenettistraße is the decommissioned cattle market (Viehhof). The red brick walls are now home to the Volkstheater. Launched with a production of Christopher Marlowe’s Edward II, the diverse programme includes the Radikal jung festival, focused on emerging directors, and the U20 Poetry Slam, which invites young writers to present their work.

Next door is Bahnwärter Thiel, the heart of Munich’s underground scene, were graffitied shipping containers and the occasional caravan provide studios for DJs, artists, potters, goldsmiths, bakers (see above) and non-profits. “There’s no central heating or running water in the containers,” says Kati Legge from female creative office High Five, “but it’s not about comfort, it’s about maximum inspiration and the fascinating people around you.”

Raised garden beds add touches of green and upcycled materials are used for sculptures and makeshift walkways. There’s also a bar in an old tram, a restaurant in a train carriage and a techno club open till 6am weekends.

Where to shop

Rindchen’s Weinkontor has a huge selection of wine stored in a roomy, listed building. At Moss Concept Store on Thalkirchner Straße you’ll find ceramics, glassware and other home accessories.

Don’t miss

Actually quite hard to miss is Alte Utting, a former passenger ship that’s now a bar and event space that fills the length of a bridge over Lagerhausstraße. Destined for the scrapyard after years of service on Ammersee, it was rescued and relocated in 2017 by Wannda, the people behind Bahnwärter Thiel.

Where to stay

There’s little tourist accommodation in Schlachthofviertel, but there are hotels close to the nearby Oktoberfest site. Cocoon Theresienwiese has doubles from around €80 room-only.