ultimate

Tennessee was home to Dolly Parton for most of her life, from her humble beginnings in a tiny, one-room log cabin in the Great Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee to the vast private estate in Brentwood

Such was the power of Dolly Parton’s music and magnetism as a star, in the wake of her death many of her fans will be travelling to to the icon’s home state of Tennessee in a bid to trace her story and to feel closer to her.

The Volunteer State was home to Dolly for most of her life, from her humble beginnings in a tiny, one-room log cabin in the Great Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee to the vast private estate in Brentwood, a suburb near Nashville, where she spent her final days.

We asked TN Vacation, the tourist board for Tennessee, for its ultimate Dolly itinerary for those making a pilgrimage there following her death at the age of 80. This is what they told us.

Sevierville – A small East Tennessee town in the foothills of the Smokies, this is Dolly’s official birthplace and the natural starting point for any fan pilgrimage. It’s also home to her childhood church roots and several early landmarks tied to her family.

Locust Ridge – The rural community just outside Sevierville where Dolly actually grew up, made famous by her song “My Tennessee Mountain Home.” The area remains largely undeveloped, giving visitors a real sense of the humble setting she often describes in interviews.

Dolly Parton statue, Sevier County Courthouse – Unveiled in 1987, this bronze statue captures a young, barefoot Dolly perched on a rock with her guitar. It sits on the courthouse lawn and has become one of the most-photographed spots in downtown Sevierville.

Pigeon Forge – The tourist hub just north of the Smokies that Dolly’s fame helped transform from a sleepy mill town into a major attraction. It’s built almost entirely around family entertainment, much of it directly tied to Dolly’s brand.

Dollywood – Co-owned by Dolly since 1986, this is arguably the go-to place for Dolly fans. The theme park blends Appalachian culture, music, and thrill rides across the Smoky Mountain foothills. It regularly ranks among the top theme parks in the US for guest satisfaction and is, by all accounts, an incredible place to visit.

The Dolly Parton Experience – A dedicated museum-style attraction inside Dollywood tracing her rise from a poor Appalachian childhood to global superstardom. It houses genuine stage costumes, awards, and personal memorabilia rarely seen elsewhere.

Dollywood Express – A pair of authentic 1943 steam locomotives that once ran in Mexico before being restored for the park. The 5-mile route loops through forest and along the Little Pigeon River for classic mountain views.

HeartSong Lodge and Resort – Dollywood’s newest on-site hotel, opened in 2023, designed around Appalachian craftsmanship and music heritage. Its acoustic-inspired music room and mountain-view suites make it a favorite for fans wanting to stay immersed in the theme.

Great Smoky Mountains – America’s most-visited national park, straddling the Tennessee-North Carolina border with over 800 miles of trails. The misty ridgelines and rich biodiversity are the literal backdrop to Dolly’s music and mythology. Fans of her music will take a great deal from being in the environment that so inspired her.

Nashville – Tennessee’s capital and the undisputed heart of the country music industry, often called Music City. Dolly called it home for decades and it’s where her professional career took shape.

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum – One of the world’s largest museums dedicated to a music genre, holding decades of country music artifacts and recordings. Its current “Dolly Parton: Journey of a Seeker” exhibition runs through September 30, 2026.

Grand Ole Opry – The legendary weekly radio show and live venue that helped launch and sustain generations of country stars. Dolly became a member in 1969 and performed there as recently as 2019. Dolly first took the Grand Ole Opry stage at the young age of 13 on July 25, 1959, performing with her uncle Bill Owens.

Ryman Auditorium – Built in 1892 as a religious tabernacle, it later became the Opry’s original home from 1943 to 1974. Its near-perfect acoustics and historic pews make it one of the most atmospheric venues Dolly ever played early in her career.

RCA Studio B – A modest brick building on Nashville’s Music Row where countless country classics were recorded starting in the 1950s. Dolly famously crashed her car into its wall while rushing to her very first recording session there in 1967.

SongTeller Hotel – Dolly’s new music-themed hotel in downtown Nashville, opening this month with reservations starting September 14, 2026. The 12-story building features a guitar-shaped entryway and a “Listening Lobby” with gilded ceilings where Dolly’s songs play every hour.

White Limozeen – A rooftop bar named after Dolly’s 1989 album, known for its playful pink decor and skyline views over Nashville. It’s become a go-to spot for fans wanting a stylish nod to her music catalog.

The Butterfly Bar, Assembly Food Hall – A themed bar inside Nashville’s large multi-vendor food hall, drawing on Dolly’s signature butterfly imagery. It’s a casual, colorful stop that fits well alongside a day of exploring the food hall’s other vendors.

Dolly mural, Strong Alley (Knoxville) – A large-scale street art tribute located in Knoxville’s downtown alleyway art district. It’s a popular photo stop for fans exploring East Tennessee beyond the immediate Sevierville-Pigeon Forge corridor.

Tennessee Aquarium Butterfly Garden (Chattanooga) – A living butterfly habitat that connects thematically to Dolly’s lifelong butterfly symbol, tied to her early performing days. It’s an unconventional but fitting stop for fans wanting to explore Dolly’s imagery beyond the standard sites.

Cornersville – A small town just off I-65 in central Tennessee offering Southern comfort food and Dolly-themed hospitality touches. Its general store and live music nights give it the feel of a genuine roadside discovery rather than a polished attraction.

The Pines (Sevierville) – The modest venue where Dolly played her first-ever paid gig as a young performer. It remains a low-key but meaningful stop for fans tracing the very earliest steps of her career.

FROM pretty colonial towns and buzzing cities to rugged coasts, sandy beaches and beautiful mountains, there is nowhere quite like New England.

And the best time to see it is in the Fall (autumn), when the leaves turn red and gold and you can do a bit of whale watching, too.

New England’s six states – Massachusetts, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Connecticut and Rhode Island – are all quite different but add up to one amazing holiday experience.

It is one of the ultimate bucket list trips and doable – if you plan carefully.

We decided to cover all six states plus Boston in one mega two-week, 600-mile round trip.

It can be done – New England is small enough to fit into Texas four times over.

We didn’t see eveything, obviously, but we had a damned good go!

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

GO AT THE RIGHT TIME. New England’s Fall officially runs from September to November, with late September and October being the peak.

Don’t go too late or, as locals put it, you run the risk of it being “stick season” when all the leaves have dropped off.

However, whale watching ends late September/early October, so to see both, you need to time it right.

A lot of it’s down to luck.

GO ANTI-CLOCKWISE. If you want to see the best foliage, head north up the coast to Maine, across to Vermont, then drive back through New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island.

The leaves start turning in the north first, so you will essentially be following the trees as the colours change.

DRIVE…BUT DON’T DRIVE. New England roads are a pleasure.

Petrol is still cheap, car hire is affordable and roads are wide, well maintained and signposted, and not that busy.

But DON’T drive in Boston – the traffic is horrendous and there is nowhere to park.

Make Boston either the start or the end of your trip so you aren’t stuck there with a car.

GO: NEW ENGLAND

GETTING THERE/ STAYING THERE: America As You Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com/020 8742 8299) has a 14-night fly drive from £2,930pp, including return flights, car hire and accommodation.

This includes two nights at the Sheraton Boston, one night at The Breakwater Inn & Spa, Kennebunkport; two nights at the Portland Regency Hotel & Spa, Portland, Maine; two nights at the Newfound Lake Inn, New Hampshire; one night at Cranmore Mountain Lodge, North Conway, New Hampshire; three nights at Hotel Champlain Burlington, Vermont; two nights at the Chart House Inn, Rhode Island; and one night at the Marriott Quincy.

MASSACHUSETTS

THE big draw in Massachusetts is Boston (see City Q&A) but there’s plenty more to see.

Beautiful Cape Cod, where the Pilgrims on the Mayflower first landed, is full of pretty little towns, sandy dunes and marshes that are teeming with wildlife.

We hit the resort of Sandwich and, as it was out of season, had the beach to ourselves.

The buzzing town of Quincy is worth a look, too.

It is best known for being the birthplace of two US presidents, John Adams and his son John Quincy Adams.

You can see their crypts in the United First Parish Church – the only place where you will get so close to a presidential tomb.

But nothing is as good as whale watching. The fishing port of Gloucester is THE place on the New England coast to see them, thanks to its proximity to three rich feeding grounds.

One whale would have been fantastic, but we saw EIGHT – a mixture of humpbacks and minkes – surfacing so dramatically they could have been performing for the cameras.

And you can get unbelievably close to them.

The boat crew will fill you in on how these gentle giants live, and even who they are.

They can identify each one by the marking on their fins.

If we hadn’t managed to see a single golden leaf during our trip, it wouldn’t have mattered after this. The absolute highlight.

WE STAYED AT: Quincy Marriott (marriott.com).

MAINE

THE state flag of Maine has a moose on it but it probably ought to be Pennywise the clown.

Yup, Maine is Stephen King country – and you can see why.

Its forests, small colonial towns and rugged coastline have a vaguely eerie quality that the writer has exploited to the full.

We stayed in Portland – King’s hometown – a working lobster port that’s also a laid-back city full of refugees from the 9-5 grind of New York and Boston.

There’s an appealing, alternative, hippy vibe and it’s great for bars with live music (try the local Alagash beer) and restaurants selling fresh lobster.

The rolls here were the best we had all holiday.

Kennebunkport couldn’t be more different.

It’s a pretty, upmarket town, whose main claim to fame is that it is the summer retreat of the Bush presidents.

It is a very touristy, chocolate box kind of place, full of art galleries, craft shops and tearooms.

It’s a bit like a US Bourton-on-the-Water.

Eat at the upscale Port Fish & Chop House restaurant. It’s a Bush favourite, apparently – ours too.

By the way, the Bush compound is just around the headland from Kennebunkport at Walker’s Point and is worth a look.

Don’t linger there for too long, though – the Secret Service are liable to suddenly pop up out of nowhere to check you out. 

WE STAYED AT: The Breakwater Inn & Spa, Kennebunkport (breakwaterinnmaine.com), and Portland Regency Hotel & Spa (theregency.com).

NEW HAMPSHIRE

IT’S when you head inland from Maine to New Hampshire that the Fall hits you.

Nothing quite prepares you for the reds and golds, purples, oranges and coppers of the foliage – and there is so much of it.

Miles and miles of brilliant colours. It is everything we hoped it would be.

New Hampshire is prime “leaf-peeping” country – what the locals call the invasion of tourists who want to catch that EXACT moment the leaves turn.

Think bird-watchers are obsessive? You ain’t seen nothing.

A stop at Loon Mountain (named after loons, a duck-like bird, not the peepers) in the White Mountains National Park gave us the best chance to take it all in.

We took the gondola up to the top and spent a couple of hours trekking along the mountain trails (watch out for bears).

From the summit all you can see are beautiful colours in every direction.

Our B&B, a charming inn called the Cranmore Mountain Lodge in the middle of the park, was perfect for peeping and had another bonus – the chance to sleep in baseball legend Babe Ruth’s bed.

His daughter owned the place – putting the inn in innings, I guess.

And while you are in NH, try the sightseeing cruise on Lake Winnipesaukee, famously used as a location for the film On Golden Pond.

In a state full of sights to marvel at, this placid stretch of water with its many islands and mountain backdrop is one of the best.

WE STAYED AT: Newfound Lake Inn (newfoundlakeinn.com) and the Cranmore Mountain Lodge, North Conway (cmlnh.com).

RHODE ISLAND

RHODE ISLAND may be America’s smallest state but it acts big.

It’s big on maritime history and big on seafood. It is also big on understatement.

Newport is home to some of the grandest and most opulent mansions ever built.

And do you know what locals call them? “Summer cottages”.

We toured The Breakers, the grandest of all.

It has 70 rooms, all astonishingly decorated and furnished, takes up more than 130,000 sq ft and was based on a 16th century Italian palazzo.

It was built by the Vanderbilt family, who made millions in railroads and steamships in the 19th century.

You can see more of these over-the-top symbols of the Gilded Age on the Cliff Walk.

This 3.5-mile path along the coast has crashing Atlantic Ocean waves on one side (the breakers) and the grand estates on the other.

Train magnate Vanderbilt might have been amused by another top attraction in Newport – the Rail Explorers.

This is a three-mile stretch of disused track that you pedal along on customised “rail bikes”.

On the way you can take in fantastic coastal views and may even spot the ospreys that nest in the area.

Newport itself is a charming port with a really vibrant quayside stuffed with bars and restaurants.

And do the sunset sail round the harbour.

You will head under the gigantic Newport Bridge which connects RI to Connecticut.

It’s such an amazing sight you will want to big it up.

WE STAYED AT: The Chart House Inn (charthouseinn.com).

CONNECTICUT

VISIT New England and you could be forgiven for thinking everything is about the settlers and the Founding Fathers.

But the Mashantucket Pequot Museum will put you straight.

The Pequot were one of the original New England tribes – and almost totally wiped out by disease, slavery and massacre caused by the new immigrants.

It’s the darker side of the early American story, and well told at this fascinating museum.

The Pequot have had the last laugh, though.

The museum is next to the Foxwoods Casino, one of the biggest in America.

It’s owned and run by the Pequot, and it has made them the richest tribe in the US.

Head down to Mystic to learn about another one of New England’s guilty secrets – whaling.

The industry was so lucrative it made New England the Silicon Valley of its day.

Mystic – an attractive town that was the setting for the movie Mystic Pizza – was a major 19th century port.

Its brilliant Mystic Seaport museum recreates that great seafaring era and contains the world’s oldest surviving wooden whaling ship.

Go on board and get a taste of what it was like working in this terrible and hugely dangerous industry.

Thirty-odd men lived in tiny, cramped cabins often for years at a time.

The Captain, at least, had his own cabin (and toilet), as did his wife – the only woman on the trip.

WE STAYED AT: Hilton, Mystic (hilton.com).

VERMONT

I’M a Frank Sinatra nut and one of his greatest recordings is Moonlight In Vermont.

I’m not 100 per cent sure Frank ever actually went there (not trashy enough for him), but, hey, it doesn’t matter.

I know from the song this state is something special.

Vermont invented leaf-peeping with canny marketing in the 1950s that promoted an overlooked season into something special.

And it is here that the trees are maybe at their best.

The vibrant colours are set off by the white-painted clapboard of the houses and churches in colonial villages and towns.

We headed across rolling farmland that could be in Old England to the buzzing city of Burlington, on the shores of Lake Champlain, via a stop at Hildene in Manchester, the family home of President Abraham Lincoln.

It’s certainly worth a detour as it tells one of the great American rags-to-riches stories and contains possibly the nation’s most famous political symbol – Abe’s stovepipe hat.

But the highlight was the scenic village of Dorset, and our stay at the homely yet lively Dorset Inn – Vermont’s oldest tavern.

If you’ve seen that great old movie White Christmas, with Bing Crosby, this is the kind of place it’s set in.

In fact, a stay at the Dorset may be the ultimate Vermont experience.

WE STAYED AT: Hotel Champlain Burlington (hotelchamplainvermont.com) and the Dorset Inn (innsofdorset.com).

SPILL THE TEA ON BOSTON

BOSTON is famously America’s most Irish city, but it may be its most English too.

With its green spaces, historic buildings and cobbled streets, the centre can feel like London or Cambridge.

Indeed, Boston has a Cambridge – along with a Brighton, a Hyde Park, a Chelsea and a Dorchester.

The city itself, a major US port, was named after Boston in Lincolnshire.

And thanks to its ties to the American Revolution, England still looms large.

Boston and Massachusetts may have been instrumental in the rebellion that ended George III’s rule over the 13 American colonies, but they have kept large parts of our culture.

This year, Boston has been celebrating its role in 250 years of American Independence, even though the actual 1776 Declaration document was signed 300 miles away in Philadelphia.

As Bostonians like to joke, Boston did all the hard work, while Philly just did the paperwork.

Thanks to the anniversary – and the World Cup, of course – Boston (or Baw-stin, as they seem to pronounce it) has rarely had such a high profile.

WHY SHOULD I GO?

Whether you are a history buff, culture vulture, sailing enthusiast, sports nut, foodie or an enthusiastic pubgoer, Boston has something for everyone.

In the autumn you can see it at its best. Summer is too hot, winter too cold. In the Fall, the weather is still warm enough for shorts but the foliage is turning, making this attractive city even more so.

Boston is one of America’s most fascinating cities, and its European feel gives it a familiarity that’s uncommon in the rest of the US.

It’s an intriguing mix of the blue collar and the blue blood, as the city is both proudly working class and defiantly Old Money. It’s also very studenty – Harvard and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology are just over the Charles River.

One thing to remember, though – Boston ain’t a “Have a nice day” kind of town. Bostonians can be brusque and wrapped up in themselves – so quite a lot like Londoners.

STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?

Absolutely – and you really don’t want to drive in Boston (see box, above). Unlike New York or Chicago, with their easy-to-navigate grid systems, old Boston developed without the help of town planners.

That means the higgledy-piggledy central streets haven’t changed much since the 18th and 19th centuries. Rubbish for cars, great for walking.

In Beacon Hill, for example, you will find quaint cobbled alleys full of original gas street lamps, wrought-iron balconies and pretty red-brick terraced houses.

The centre is surprisingly small and easy to cover on foot. And the best way to get to know it is on a walking tour.

Try the 2.5-mile Freedom Trail walk, which offers a potted history of the fight for independence. It takes in 16 landmarks, including the Massachusetts State House, Founding Father Paul Revere’s House, the Battle of Bunker Hill Monument and the Boston Massacre site.

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST?

Loads. Head to Fenway Park to catch a baseball game at the oldest stadium in America, home of the Red Sox.

Art buffs will love the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum – a large private collection donated to the city by an eccentric millionaire – housed in an incredible Venetian-style palazzo.

The huge and immaculate Boston Common, America’s oldest public park, will give you some rare moments of calm in the middle of this bustling city.

View Boston offers a 360-degree panorama of the skyline from the 52nd floor of the Prudential Building in Back Bay.

If you have time, take in the city centre’s main neighbourhoods.

North End, on the waterfront, is a buzzing Little Italy full of trattorias, gelatarias and rival bakeries selling “Boston’s best cannoli”. Back Bay has charming squares and impressive Victorian brownstone town houses.

Beacon Hill has pretty, upmarket streets with boutiques and high-end restaurants, and South End is the place for trendy bars and bistros.

WHERE SHOULD I EAT?

Boston is known as Beantown – a clue to its speciality: slow-cooked beans with molasses and pork. Seafood is also a big draw here, ranging from New England clam chowder to lobster rolls and fresh oysters.

We headed to North End for a cosy, traditional family-run Italian trattoria, Bacco (bacconorthend.com) with fantastic food and craft beers.

And we particularly loved Pagu (gopagu.com) in Cambridge, which mixes Japanese and Spanish tapas (who thinks of these combinations?!) to mouth-watering effect.

If you have one big blowout in Boston, THIS is the place to go. Superb.

I FANCY A DRINK!

Another tradition from the old country Bostonians embrace is the pub culture. From English taverns to Irish pubs and trendy bars, drinking is BIG here.

And then there’s Cheers. The bar that inspired the classic TV comedy starring Ted Danson used to be called the Bull and Finch and is now a tribute act to the sitcom. It’s worth a look – even if it’s only a selfie in front of the sign.

Oh, and Bostonians DO drink tea – despite tipping loads into the harbour in the famous 1773 Boston Tea Party to protest against English taxation.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

We stayed at the Sheraton Boston Hotel in Back Bay (marriott.com) – a modern, comfortable hotel with great views across the Charles River and into Cambridge.

It’s an excellent base for discovering further and an easy walk into the centre along the attractive, tree-lined Commonwealth Avenue.

HOT, but not too hot. Relaxing, but not boring

A pool with heating and steps — and not just any old steps, they must be Roman steps.

Local food, but also margherita pizzas on tap. Culture, but not challenging.

Not too far from the sea, airport or supermarket. Not too expensive. Not many stairs . . . 

Trying to plan a three-generation family trip, I realised I wasn’t looking for a holiday home, but a unicorn.

The hunt took our family of five — our sons are a “lively” 11, nine and three — my 70-something parents and my godmother to a villa outside Cavtat in Croatia, a 15-minute drive from Dubrovnik airport (tick).

Cavtat (pronounced Savtat, I learned after a confusing conversation with a waitress) looked lovely, but could it possibly tick all our boxes?

There were blue skies, and our gorgeous white stone villa had a heated pool, those Roman steps and enough bedrooms for the boys not to kill each other.

Add in a higgledy-piggledy garden with wild flowers and a lemon tree at the bottom of our drive — perfect for the G&Ts — and we were good to go.

After a first day splashing in the pool, we managed a pootle down to Cavtat’s main village, a ten-minute drive away.

To the whole family’s delight, you could park cheaply right on the marina, one of many practicalities we came to appreciate during this trip.

The old town lies on a pretty horseshoe bay in the middle of two small pine- forested peninsulas.

With white stone Dalmatian buildings and narrow alleyways, it looks like a mini Dubrovnik but is thankfully smaller, cheaper and significantly less crowded.

This isn’t a coincidence. Cavtat is often called “Old Dubrovnik” as it was once a prosperous Greek and Roman port which was sacked in the 7th century, sending survivors legging it to what later became Dubrovnik.

Whatever its provenance, with a smooth promenade (tick), a cluster of great-value restaurants where you could get pizza and a beer for 8 euros (tick) and a picturesque 15th century church, it was the perfect place to potter around.

The church also houses masterpieces by one of Croatia’s most famous artists, Vlaho Bukovac, who was born in Cavtat.

Bukovac’s house is just off the marina, and one day we dragged the kids inside — admittedly, largely to escape the sun.

It was a blissfully shady change of pace and with just a few rooms didn’t prompt too much whining. Easy culture? Tick.

We quickly settled into a routine: Activities in the morning, followed by naps (for both toddlers and adults) and then lazy afternoons at the villa.

By day three, we girded our loins and got up early to visit Dubrovnik and take the two-kilometre walk around the legendary city walls.

On one side of the walls, which are six metres thick in places, is the vast azure sea, while on the other you peer down into a maze of terracotta roofs, with tennis courts and allotments nestling next to incredible 15th century architecture.

It’s fair to say my three-year-old was unimpressed (despite getting the best view of all of us, riding on my poor husband’s sunburnt shoulders) but he perked up when we dived inside some of the many cool “hole in the wall” bars for a cola. Be warned, they are pricey.

If you prefer to re-energise with ice cream, Dolce Vita serves the best scoops in town. Try the dark chocolate, pistachio and hazelnut “Domino”.

While Dubrovnik deserves its reputation as a must-see, we were all happy to get back to the chilled atmosphere of Cavtat.

Its only downside as a family holiday destination? The stony beaches. But that was nothing some 5-euro watershoes couldn’t fix. When the pebbles get too much, take a boat trip to Sunj bay, allegedly the best sandy beach in Croatia.

Buckets and spades in hand, we hopped on to a speedboat stocked with beers and cans of Fanta, zooming past Dubrovnik and the most expensive villa in town, which David Beckham and Beyonce have stayed in (not together, or this would be on the front page of the paper).

When we arrived at Sunj bay, we found boats can only stop just off the shore, so the boys jumped in and waded through chest-height sea to the beach.

My poor old dad was a bit less enthusiastic. After a brief stint on the sands, we headed to the Blue Cave on nearby Kolocep Island which, as you approach, looks less like a cave and more like a crack at the base of a jagged cliff face.

Pretending to be far braver than I felt, I jumped off the boat and swam towards a gap just a few feet high, shouting for the kids to follow.

Once inside, it was well worth the claustrophobic entrance. A massive chamber opens up with a high ceiling and striking bright blue water — because the cave is lit from underneath, it filters out the red light, leaving only the blue.

Towards the end of the week, we ditched the kids and escaped on our own — just the parents. That’s the best thing about a three-generation holiday: The built-in babysitters.

A white-tableclothed dinner on the waterfront, watching the sun set, was followed by a gorgeous run to sweat out our hangovers the next morning.

The Cavtat walking trail is excellent for those into fitness, wrapping around the peninsula and deliciously shaded by the Aleppo pines.

So, how did Cavtat stack up for a three-generation holiday? My son’s verdict: 9.5/10. Apparently it lost half a point for the bracing sea water.

To be fair, a warm sea wasn’t on my checklist. 

Last things first: Eve Babitz is a major minor L.A. writer who died five years ago at age 78. She spent nearly a quarter-century as a recluse, having suffered in 1997 a shocking and disfiguring accident while striking a match to light her Tiparillo. Her thin Indian skirt caught fire searing her panty hose into her flesh, leaving her with third-degree burns over more than half her body. She never published again, though many championed her gifts, including me. At the time of her misfortune, I was book editor of the Los Angeles Times. I had long admired her, especially the rollicking and indispensable “Slow Days, Fast Company,” first published in 1977, a charming and insightful series of stories bursting with pluck and sass. I recommended to John Carroll, the then-editor of the paper, that he make her a columnist and urged Babitz to write him directly. She did, and that letter from October 2000 is the last included in “Too L.A.: Letters Never Sent (But Some Were),” a book of letters expertly edited and chosen by Lili Anolik. Babitz tells Carroll that “what the paper needs is some writers that cause such an uproar, people will have to read it in order to stay abreast of the edge.” Babitz knew what she was talking about. She’d been living on that edge since she was a teenager at Hollywood High in the late 1950s.

The posthumous resurrection of Babitz’s writings is most welcome. Yet there is a risk of overpraising her merits. She was an unabashed booster of the glossy L.A. that became synonymous with a rising creative elite whose élan and narcissism she found irresistible.

Lili Anolik makes the case in her perfervid introduction: “The letters are everything you could want” and often “profound” and “frequently brilliant, invariably amusing.” She says they deserve to be put on the short shelf next to Virginia Woolf’s imperishable “A Room of One’s Own” for they are “every bit as candid, every bit as lucid, every bit as brutal, every bit as delicate as Virginia Woolf’s celebrated manifesto.”

If only.

Regrettably, Anolik, who is almost singlehandedly responsible for Babitz’s literary exhumation, has so fallen in love with her subject as to almost blind her to Babitz’s defects, both with respect to her writing and to the life. With two previous books — “Hollywood’s Eve” (2019) and “Didion and Babitz” (2024) — prompted by Anolik’s riveting March 2014 Vanity Fair profile, Anolik has become Babitz’s greatest champion. Now with “Too L.A.,” a title taken from Babitz’s own over-oxygenated writing, she has gathered and edited a trove of letters. They brilliantly reveal Babitz’s eye for the deep shallow as well as explore the porous boundary between the largely self-inflicted injuries of her private life and the glittering sheen of her public persona. Babitz herself, on the strength of these 197 letters, only 30 of which she ever mailed, understood in a way Anolik doesn’t the limitations of her talents, even as she strives to slip the shackles of a mansplaining culture which at almost every turn tried to blunt her ambitions, both artistic and writerly, even as her editors and admirers sought (often with her ardent encouragement) to slip between her sheets.

Eve Babitz was born in 1943 to Hollywood neo-royalty. Her Brooklyn-born father, Sol, was first violinist for both the Los Angeles Philharmonic Symphony and then the 20th Century Fox Studio Orchestra. Sol would ultimately marry Lily Mae Laviolette, a beautiful Cajun Catholic shiksa willing to convert to Judaism. Eve’s godfather was Sol’s good friend Igor Stravinsky. When puberty burst upon her at age 14, Babitz’s blossoming made her a prime candidate for induction by the fast-track girls at Hollywood High who called themselves the Thunderbird Girls and cruised the Sunset Strip in their cool cars, looking for the main chance.

At 20, Babitz posed nude playing chess with the fully clothed Marcel Duchamp to promote Duchamp’s retrospective exhibition at the Pasadena Art Museum. At the time, Babitz was having an affair with the museum’s 32-year-old married director, Walter Hopps, which perhaps explains Babitz’s reluctance to have her face photographed so as not to give the game away to Mrs. Hopps, who attended the opening. A month later, Babitz confides in an (unsent) letter: “Everything’s so fabulous for me now I can’t believe it. There’s nothing like two boyfriends to do it for you every time. There are such fabulous boys around and they take you out on dates and to movies and I feel just like a teenager. (I’m recapturing my lost youth.) I get to get dressed up and I flirt outrageously and put people on and I do things like look soulfully out the window and man it’s just too hoozie for words. … If only all of this could last forever — not that it will, but I can.”

She spent the rest of her life torn between the excitements of everyday life — cruising the hangouts du jour (Barney’s Beanery in the early 1960s where she met many of L.A.’s up-and-coming artists — Ed Kienholz, Billy Al Bengston, Laddie Dill, Peter Alexander, and the Ruscha brothers, Ed and Paul, both of whom she’d bed, Paul becoming an on-again, off-again boyfriend whose bisexuality made for a sometimes tenuous connection; and after seducing Jim Morrison before he became famous and later the Troubadour in the late 1960s which was a happy hunting ground — Steve Martin, Glenn Frey, Don Henley, J.D. Souther, Country Joe Mcdonald, Jackson Browne, to name only a few, and then Ports restaurant where she anchored a corner table) — and the seductions of drugs — uppers, acid (which she seemed to ingest with an alarming frequency), pot, of course, and then by the mid-1970s, tragically, an Everest of cocaine. She had entered what she aptly called the era of “squalid overboogie.”

The name-dropping is relentless and if, like me, you have an insatiable appetite for hoovering them up, this volume will not disappoint. Still, there are many pages of vapid jottings — “I cleaned the house, did the laundry, and vowed to quit smoking” — that suggest why Babitz was a failure as a novelist (see her dud “Sex and Rage”) and a superb writer of short stories and essays that stylishly plumbed the depths of her own sensibility precisely in the degree to which she was uninterested in other people.

Nearly 30 years after she stripped to please her married lover and startle the unsuspecting Duchamp, the father of Dada, and eight years after she joined AA in 1982 — the year her beloved father died of Huntington’s disease at age 70 which ultimately would also kill her — and gave up drugs and alcohol and (almost entirely) writing as well, which had always been seen by her as enabled by dope of one kind or another, she boasted that, looking back, “Everybody wanted to be me — they looked at me with yearning faces, and said, ‘Boy, you sure had fun.’ ” She was not entirely wrong. She had struck many admirers both then and now, as the quintessential California girl, a daughter of Dionysus, whose devotion to pleasure was free of misgiving or regret. She detested the East Coast avatars of apocalypse, like Nathanael West, who saw only doom and gloom in sunny L.A. Babitz, by contrast, saw things sunny side up. If Joan Didion was unsettled and made anxious by the hot Santa Anas that regularly kicked up, Babitz luxuriated in them, recalling how she and her sister would as young girls rush to embrace them, spinning madly round and round. In a 1977 unsent letter to Joseph Heller, who had championed her work when she had sent him an unsolicited fan letter after having read “Catch-22” when it was first published and she was barely 20, she declares proudly: “I’m a gossip storyteller who likes L.A. rather than hates it.” She refers to her “shallow nature,” writing that “I feel like an upstream salmon, determined to reach the shallow water, no matter how fast the river is running the other way.”

On the evidence of these letters, she had two great loves: Ahmet Ertegun, a principal founder of Atlantic Records, and Tom Dowd, renown recording engineer and producer who worked for Ertegun. Of the two, Ertegun had the edge, if for no other reason than he came with buckets of dough, making possible assignations at his regular bungalow at the Beverly Hills Hotel with limo pickup and dropoff services, and the best champagne and other assorted stimulants. Ertegun was effortlessly elegant and erudite, and there was no one he didn’t know and who wouldn’t return his calls. He was married, age 45, 20 years older than Babitz, when they fell for each other in 1969. She began sleeping with him even as she agreed to profile him for Jann Wenner’s newly launched Rolling Stone. The writing didn’t go well. Wenner wanted a tougher piece than she was willing to write. Ultimately, she abandoned the assignment, claiming (not unreasonably) that she didn’t see how she could write objectively about a man she loved.

Babitz courted danger with heedless bravado and exemplary recklessness. She once had the moxie to rid herself of a would-be rapist: When told not to scream, she said with unimaginable sangfroid: “Why not?” The man bolted. It might be said of Babitz, as Oscar Wilde said of his life, that she spent her talent on her writing and reserved her genius for her life. Sculpting her natural gifts of wit and brazenness into a living artwork dazzled all who came within her orbit. Her lust for life was palpable. The letters are proof. She came at people without fear. She left them without apology. She was the boss of herself. She was the girl who seemed to have it all. The only thing she lacked was inexperience.

Wasserman, a former book editor of the Los Angeles Times, is publisher of Heyday Books, a nonprofit, independent publishing house founded in 1974 in Berkeley. He is the author of “Tell Me Something, Tell Me Anything, Even if It’s a Lie: A Memoir in Essays.”

FORGET Cornwall, Suffolk, and Lincolnshire. When it comes to UK holiday counties, one truly has it all.

As a travel writer and devoted local, I’ve explored the country’s top destinations – but nothing beats my home county.

Imagine the coastline and charm of Cornwall, but without the summer crowds.

Devon truly has it all – from the UK’s biggest outdoor waterpark and a stunning National Park to endless coastal paths and top-tier beaches.

And thanks to the Government’s new Great British Summer Savings scheme, spending time in Devon this summer is cheaper than ever.

If you’re planning a staycation, read on for my favourite spots. As a travel writer and a local, I’ve pulled together the ultimate guide to the hidden gems you won’t want to miss.

There are even some of The Sun’s £9.50 holiday parks in here too…

Best pubs

The Drum Inn, Cockington

Nestled in the picture-postcard village of Cockington, The Drum Inn. is a must-visit.

While its giant thatched roof feels like something straight out of a fairy tale, the real magic happens on scorching summer days, as its expansive garden is the ultimate sun trap.

If you need a break from the heat, head inside, where the pub manages to keep its cosy, historic charm alive all year round.

Church House Inn, Marldon

The Church House Inn , set in the village of Marldon, is one of my favourite watering holes.

Steeped in 14th-century history, this award-winning inn is a Devon legend.

It was the first pub in Devon to be listed in the Michelin Pub Guide and has been voted Devon’s Best Country Pub by readers of Devon Life magazine.

While it has a pristine beer garden ideal for soaking up the sun while sipping on a spritz. You can also get cosy and enjoy a roast by the fire in the winter.

Court Farm Inn, Abbotskerswell

The Court Farm Inn in Abbotskerswell has to hands down be one of the prettiest pubs in Devon.

The boozer used to be a farmhouse, built back in the 16th century.

Today, you still see exposed stone walls inside.

Make sure to grab one of the local ciders and head to the garden to enjoy the architecture even more.

The Thatch, Croyde

On a day trip or staycation in Croyde (see beaches section), make sure to drop into The Thatch, which boasts a rather impressive 2,000 four and five-star reviews.

The pub sells both classic dishes and dishes with a twist, and makes for the perfect spot after a day at the beach.

Samuel Jones, Exeter

When exploring the city of Exeter, head into the Samuel Jones pub which sits on the edge of Exeter Quay.

The slightly more industrial-style pub is a great spot for enjoying a pint and either watching sports games on big screens or the swans swimming outside.

The Highwayman Inn, Sourton

The Highwayman Inn is located near Sourton, on the edge of Dartmoor National Park.

often dubbed Britain’s most quirky watering hole, – it has a horse-drawn carriage for a front door and is home to a sunken galleon.

The pub, which was first built in 1282, features a Tudor-style exterior and on the inside hosts a fairy tale pumpkin house and a fire breathing dragon.

Inside the hallways are covered in an array of eclectic artefacts and objects, collected over several decades by former landlord Buster Jones.

Oh.. and it’s meant to be haunted too.

Old Fire House, Exeter

In the city centre you should pay a visit to the Old Fire House pub which used to be a 19th century fire station.

You can expect an original vaulted wooden-beamed ceiling and exposed stone walls.

And it hosts great late-night events with oversized 14-inch square pizzas.

Best hotels and holiday parks

Hotel Indigo, Torquay

Hotel Indigo Torquay by IHG is one of the newest hotels on the English Riviera and cost £23million to develop.

Having recently stayed, it is easily in the best location to explore the English Riviera.

The hotel itself looks like a giant cruise ship and sits just across the road from the beach.

Inside the hotel is super stylish, with a modern Art Deco luxury vibe.

Make sure to head to the rooftop bar if you are staying there, with amazing views across the sea and coast.

A standard king-size room for two people including breakfast starts from £83 per night.

Golden Coast Holiday Park, Woolacombe

Woolacombe is a great spot for a family staycation thanks to its expansive beach.

And Golden Coast Leisure Park, which is just five minutes from the beach is a top spot to stay at.

At the holiday park there are high ropes, a climbing wall, adventure golf, go-karts and a whole host of other activities.

If you want to test your surfing abilities, there is even the Wave Surfer.

And running until August 10, you can even book the holiday park with The Sun’s Hols from £9.50 – sign up by joining Sun Club for £1.99 per month, then go to the Sun Club Offers hub and find the Hols from £9.50 page.

Best walks

South West Coast Path

Growing up halfway between the coast and the countryside, I’ve never struggled to find a spectacular walk.

The South West Coast Path – which recently featured in The Salt Path film – can fill an entire day out with tonnes of beautiful beaches to explore.

While some of the path is rocky, most is accessible and one of my favourite things to do is drop in and out of the path to explore different parts of the coast at a time.

Dartmoor National Park

Despite all the incredible beaches Dartmoor National Park is always my preferred spot for a walk.

You could visit hundreds of times (which I have) and never experience the same walk twice.

For an easier or more accessible walk, head to Haytor – it takes about 10 minutes up to the rocks from the lower car park (where you’ll also find a visitor centre) or a few minutes from the smaller, higher car park.

For something more challenging, venture away from the roads and you’ll find stone circles and the abandoned ruins of ancient villages.

Note – if you do venture away from the roads, you should be a confident hiker as the terrain is rough and unpredictable.

But there are also many small car parks on the roads with quick walks to nearby Tors.

Make sure to keep an eye out for the famous Dartmoor Ponies as well.

The best villages & towns

Cockington

Cockington in Torquay was recently named one of the prettiest places for a day trip or staycation in the UK this summer by The Independent.

The publication dubbed it a “chocolate-box village” and said the “old thatched cottages, rural countryside and Cockington Court manor house are sure to charm”.

I always head here in the summer and enjoy looking at the pretty cottages and pristine gardens.

It is only a five minute drive from the seafront as well.

Sat at the crossroads in the middle of the village you’ll find a low-roof thatched cottage selling traditional horse brasses – an item that links to Cockington’s long history as a blacksmith’s forge.

Opposite is Sanctuary Coffee – a small coffee shop that also sells gifts and doggy items, from adorable bandanas to handcrafted toys.

And for my fave spot, head to Weavers Cottage Tea Garden, which sells the best afternoon teas around.

A cream tea costs £7.95 for a fruit or plain scone, with strawberry or handmade raspberry jam and a pot of tea.

Then if you want a cheese tea, this costs £8.45 and you get a choice of cheddar or cream cheese to go with it, as well as either chilli jam or red onion chutney – or without the tea it costs £5.50.

Just remember the golden rule of a Devonshire cream tea is to pop the cream on the scone first, then the jam.

There’s also a visitor centre where you can learn about the history of the village and Cockington Court, which is full of local makers selling everything from baked cakes, jewellery and handmade lamps.

Totnes

Totnes in south Devon is a pretty market town that is full of independent shops and cafes, a thriving market and a motte-and-bailey castle.

Wander up the high street and you will find multiple bookshops, charity shops with great finds, cosy cafes and pubs and a tonne of unique homewares shops.

There’s also Totnes Castle, which is one of the best preserved Norman motte-and-bailey castles in the UK.

Don’t miss the market on a Friday and Saturday either – it brings the town to life with antiques stalls, rug makers, food vendors and more.

Topsham

Topsham is like stepping into a village straight out of Harry Potter, but with a Dutch nod.

Every corner of the town is full of charm and is the ideal place for those who love hunting for antiques.

For example, there’s Quay Antiques which is a huge warehouse with 65 antiques sellers spread across three floors.

The town used to be involved heavily in the wool trade during the late 17th and early 18th centuries and houses along Topsham’s Strand look like Dutch merchant houses.

Babbacombe

Between Dawlish and Torquay, make sure to head to Babbacombe.

Often overshadowed by its more popular neighbours on the English Riviera, Babbacombe used to be a fishing village and today remains a quaint town.

Below the town’s cliffs you’ll find Babbacombe Beach, which boasts shingle and calm waters.

Babbacombe Downs sits above the beach and has a promenade which is thought to be the highest in England.

You can also head to Oddicombe Beach, by hopping on the Babbacombe Cliff Railway, which has been operating for a century.

As a kid, I loved heading on the 200-metre cliff railway that feels like you’re stepping back in time.

Biggest Attractions

Kents Cavern

Explore caves that date back millions of years in Kents Cavern.

Inside the caves, you can learn about their history and even their early inhabitants including woolly mammoths.

And you can sneak a peak at bones discovered in the caves as well.

The best part of the tour? When the guide blows the candle out to reveal just how dark the caves are…

Tickets cost from £21.50 per person.

Crealy Theme Park

Just outside of Exeter, make sure to head to Crealy Theme Park which has over 60 rides and attractions.

My personal favourite is Tidal Wave Log Flume – but be warned you’ll get soaked.

There are also animals to meet and shows to enjoy at the park.

For when the weather isn’t great, you can head indoors for a number of play areas as well.

And to make this summer even better, there is a new ride opening on July 31 called Rotor which will be the South West’s first inverted ride.

Tickets cost £18 per person.

Woodlands Family Theme Park

Woodlands is the largest family theme park in the South West of England, stretching across 100 acres.

And despite having been 20 plus times, I never got bored of the attraction.

Do you know what is even better? The theme park is great whatever the weather.

Inside you will find a number of play areas including a giant soft play for little ones.

Then outside you can expect water coasters, toboggan runs and toddlers’ rides.

My favourite part was always the barn where you could meet farm animals up close.

Tickets cost from £20 per adult and £15 per child.

The Big Sheep

In North Devon, head to The BIG Sheep which is an animal-themed family amusement park, near Bideford.

You can expect funny live shows and large indoor play areas.

The best part is of course, as the name suggests, the sheep sheep racing, live shearing and lamb bottle-feeding – which I can confirm is one of the cutest activities for kids.

For those who like to have their adrenaline pumping, jump on Rampage Rollercoaster which is North Devon’s biggest rollercoaster.

Tickets cost from £14.95.

The Milky Way Adventure Park

The Milky Way Adventure Park near Bideford, also has a great mix of indoor and outdoor attractions.

The theme park boasts a number of outer space-themed rides, including The Cosmic Typhoon rollercoaster which spins around.

There is an interactive play area too called Ziggy’s Blast Quest, which is a laser-shooting ride.

Tickets cost from £17.46 per person.

Splashdown Quaywest

One of my favourite summer days out on the south coast of Devon is at the UK’s biggest outdoor waterpark – Splashdown Quaywest Waterpark.

The waterpark sits on Goodrington Sands Beach in Paignton and is home to 11 slides as well as a giant pirate-themed water playground, which is perfect for kids under 12-years-old.

Shipwreck Island has seven smaller slides, tipping buckets and interactive water features such as spray arms.

Tickets cost from £27.15 per person.

RHS Rosemoor

Who doesn’t love exploring a pretty garden in bloom?

RHS Garden Rosemoor in North Devon is spread across 65 acres, between Dartmoor and Exmoor National Parks.

These are 250 different rose varieties in the gardens, as well as the exotic garden which feels more like a jungle.

There is a canopy walk too, with a stream running through it.

Tickets cost from £15.70 per adult and £6 per child.

Free things to do

House of Marbles

The House of Marbles near Bovey Tracey is a great rainy day out.

The visitor attraction is actually at a toy manufacturer that was founded back in the 70s.

Inside, there are traditional board games, glass marbles, classic toys and workshops.

As a little girl I always enjoyed watching the marbles run around different tracks including one of the largest marble runs in the UK.

And you can spend endless time in the four museums which showcase the history of marbles, board games and glassworks.

There’s a great gift shop and an outdoor play area too.

Haldon Forest Park

For more outdoorsy families, Haldon Forest Park is a must.

Around 15 minutes from Exeter, Haldon Forest feels like being somewhere in Europe.

The forest is home to a tonne of trails to explore, among the towering trees.

Lots of the trails are for cycling too and you don’t need to bring your own bike either – you can just hire one.

For those more adventurous there’s also Go Ape courses, play areas and picnic spots.

The Donkey Sanctuary

Who doesn’t think a donkey is cute? And what is cuter than a load of rescued donkeys?

216 in total, to be precise…

Found in the countryside near Sidmouth, the sanctuary makes for a wholesome day out.

After meeting the resident donkeys, you can explore the gardens or head to informative talks.

There is of course a shop and a cafe too.

Geoplay Park

Right on Paignton Seafront, you can head to Geoplay Park, with climbing frames, trampolines, a climbing net and sand and water play areas.

There are a number of picnic benches scattered around too for parents to sit back and keep an eye on their little ones play.

And in addition to being next to the beach, the pier is just over the road for more free fun with lots of 2p slot machines.

Decoy Country Park

In the town of Newton Abbot, you’ll find Decoy Country Park which is a Green Flag awarded nature reserve.

In the middle of the reserve is a huge lake, that used to be a clay quarry and has a depth of 33 metres at its deepest point.

There is a circular walk around the lake which is nice and shady so ideal for hot summer days.

And if you then want to cool off even more, head kayaking on the lake (and enjoy knocking people into the water).

There is also a large playground at the park with ziplines and a splash pad.

And then for older kids, there are a number of BMX tracks to venture off on.

Fossil Hunting

Devon is home to some brilliant spots for fossil hunting thanks to its dramatic coastline.

And one free activity I loved growing up (and admittedly still do now) is fossil hunting.

There are several spots that are well-known for it in the region including Hopes Nose, Croyde Bay, Daddy Hole.

I would recommend checking out ukfossils.co.uk for some great guides on the best spots and what they have to offer.

Lidos

Teignmouth Lido

Recently saved from possible closure, Teignmouth Lido is a great addition to a day trip in the town of Teignmouth.

The lido is surrounded by a patio and grass area ideal for sunbathing and picnics.

The pool measures 25-metres-long and between May and September there are usually a whole host of events on.

If you just fancy a dip, then a two hour block costs £8.40 per adult and £5.40 per child.

Though you can also get a full-day swim pass costing £15.10 per adult and £9.70 per child.

Tinside Lido, Plymouth

Tinside Lido originally opened back in 1935 and is a Grade II-listed Art Deco.

And recently a number of spaces have been refreshed at the lido, including the sun terrace, which now has a café pod and a pop-up event space.

The pool overlooks the sea too and is right by Plymouth Ho making it the ideal end to a day exploring the city.

Beaches

Bantham Beach

When it comes to surfing spots in the county, there aren’t many destinations that are better than Bantham Beach.

Found in the South Hams, the beach is great for both families and budding watersports enthusiasts.

You won’t need to bring your own board either, as you can book lessons and hire boards at the Bantham Surfing Academy.

I’ve been to the beach many times for its waves, and failed many times at managing to stay on my board – but that’s all part of the fun.

The beach also has all the facilities you’d need for a great day out, including cafes and restaurants.

You can even make a trip across to Burgh Island via a sea tractor.

Budleigh Salterton

Budleigh Salterton Beach stretches over 2.5miles long and thanks to being a pebble beach, it has its very own sound as the waves crash against the stones.

It also marks the end of the UNESCO Jurassic Coast in East Devon.

As a result, this has long been a favourite of mine for walks thanks to the dramatic red cliffs and traditional charm.

Sidmouth Beach

Sidmouth Beach is a great option for families, thanks to its long esplanade and watersports activities.

Oh, and the fossil hunting!

At the western end of the beach you’ll find sand which is a great spot for children wanting to play.

Don’t miss the wooden steps from the beach to Connaught Gardens either – they will make you feel as if you have stepped back in time.

Croyde Beach

If you didn’t already have enough spots to head to for a good surf session, then add Croyde to that list.

The sandy beach has great waves that bodyboarders and surfers love – and trust me, part of the fun is falling off.

Around the beach you can venture through the sand dunes as well and explore some of the nearby surfing shops.

Saunton Sands

Beaches don’t get much more spectacular than Saunton Sands – which stretches for over 3.5miles.

Once again, it is another great spot for surfing, but is also dog friendly, so your pooch can have fun too.

It is well-worth extending your time at the beach as well by staying in one of the onsite Saunton Beach Villas which cost from £71 a night.

Woolacombe Beach

Woolacombe is my top pick for families, without a doubt.

The golden sand beach is right by a number of holiday parks, so makes for the ideal staycation.

In fact, there are some you can stay at in Golden Coast Holiday Park from just £9.50 (see hotels and holiday parks section).

As for things to do at the beach, you are spoilt for choice – the flat sand is great for walks and running around alike, as well as building sand castles and you can also have a go at bodyboarding or surfing with one of the local schools that offer lessons.

Torre Abbey Sands

Whilst I do normally avoid this beach in the summer, due to the flocks of families, there is no denying it is great.

The large sandy beach is usually really flat and is right by the road which makes it a great place for being near the car as well as other facilities like restaurants and loos.

Often, you’ll find a local sand artist drawing in the sand, creating some amazing image which can be viewed from the pedestrian bridge overhanging the beach.

Make sure to walk around from the beach to Pier Point to grab some fish and chips, which have previously been awarded the best in the UK.

Preston Sands

Preston Sands is great for those who love beaches with softer sand and spectacular views.

From the beach you can look across the English Riviera bay, which comes alive at night with glowing multi-coloured lights along the promenade.

The beach has colourful beach huts – great for photos.

And make sure to check out the rock pools, where you will often see little fish and crabs.

Anstey’s Cove

Popular with the famous crime author, Agatha Christie, Anstey’s Cove is a spot that most people have no clue exists.

Hidden behind the now abandoned Living Coasts, the small cove features a mix of pebbles and sand but boasts a tonne of history.

It actually used to be the preferred spot for crime writer Agatha Christie to head on a sunny day.

She even once nearly drowned at the beach.

Around the beach you will also find recently installed information boards that tell you about the history, but also the ecology of the area.

Elberry Cove

My absolute favourite beach is Elberry Cove – it often feels as if it has been plucked from a Greek island instead of England’s southern coast.

It’s between Paignton and Brixham and isn’t the biggest of beaches.

It also features pebbles so make sure to bring a chair with you.

There are crystal clear water, with views of a tropical-looking forest on one side and towering cliffs on the other.

The secluded spot doesn’t really get busy, which always surprises me as it has been popular historically.

At the end of the beach you’ll find its main curiosity – a ruined bath house, that used to be three stories tall and was used by Lord Churston in the 18th century.

The sea would freely wash in and out of the ground floor, which allowed the Lord to swim directly into the sea.

It later then featured the early version of the hot tub, with the seawater being heated by a fire.

Brixham Breakwater Beach

While Brixham Breakwater Beach isn’t huge, it is one of the best spots for a beach walk in the county as you often get to see seals playing in the sea.

The breakwater itself has amazing views of the bay and town as well.

This spot also has a blue flag for cleanliness.

Take a wander back to the harbour and you can see a replica of the famous Golden Hinde boat.

Quirky things

Babbacombe Model Village

Babbacombe Model Village is over 60 years old, spread across four acres and boasts hundreds of scenes depicting British life.

From iconic landmarks we know and love, to slightly more tongue-in-cheek scenes, there is something for everyone to see.

One scene is an ‘unaffordable housing development’ and then there’s also a celebrity mansion with the Mutant Ninja Turtles and The Incredibles family playing in the garden.

Included in your admission ticket, you can also watch a film in the attraction’s 4D cinema.

Tickets cost £21.95 per adult and £17.95 per child.

Local Loves & Hidden Gems

Gandy Street, Exeter

J.K.Rowling went to Exeter University, and for years many thought this quaint, cobbled street off of the high street was the inspiration behind Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, sadly the famous author has denied it.

But for me, it remains the most Harry Potter Diagon Alley-style spot I’ve ever seen.

There are some vintage shops to spend some hard-earned cash, as well as great gift shops and cosy restaurants.

Castle Drogo

Sat on the edge of Dartmoor, Castle Drogo is famously the last castle built in England in the 1930s.

It doesn’t look like your usual old stone castle, but instead blends both old and new architecture.

You’ll not see anything else quite like it.

It costs from £9 per child and £18 per adult to visit.

Royal William Yard

Once a 19th century Royal Naval depot, Royal William Yard is now a bustling 16-acre waterfront attraction thanks to years of refurbs and new openings.

You’ll find amazing independent shops and restaurants, galleries, bars, a cinema and of course, the marina.

It is a great place to explore thanks to having Europe’s largest collection of historic military buildings and just marvel at the architecture with a cuppa in hand.

Round Robin Experience

Without fail, if you spend money on one experience in Devon, make it the Round Robin.

Admittedly, it is not the cheapest – and adult ticket costs £43 and a child ticket costs £27.50 – but it is the best way to see pretty Devon town.

Starting on a bus trip from Paignton, you’ll head to Totnes where you then head on an hour-and-a-half cruise to Dartmouth, before hopping on a five-minute ferry to Kingswear.

Then for the final part you’ll jump on a 30minute steam train back to Paignton.

Across the journey you’ll see pretty towns and villages, see the countryside, spot wildlife and have a chance to explore.

Greenway House

Agatha Christie – who was also a born and bred Devonian – has left her mark across Devon.

And one top spot to see associated with the famous crime writer is her holiday home, Greenway House – which she dubbed “the loveliest place in the world”.

Sat on a riverbank in Kingswear, the home is full of items she used to cherish from both her childhood and travels.

Tickets cost from £9 per child and £18 per adult.

Everyone knew going in that Lionel Messi would be the narrative centerpiece of the 2026 World Cup. Easily the most recognized name in the competition, Messi is considered by many to be the greatest soccer player of all time and, as the captain of 2022 winner Argentina, he is the reigning World Cup champ. At 18, he scored his first World Cup goal in 2006 and has competed in every World Cup since. He celebrated his 39th birthday before this year’s knockout rounds began, so it’s not unreasonable to assume that this will be his last.

No matter what Messi did, or failed to do, it would be News. Everyone with even a passing interest in the event knew this. Including me.

But I didn’t expect to completely fall for the guy. He’s a professional male athlete, for heaven’s sake, and I don’t emotionally invest in professional male athletes. Admire some of them, sure; watch with bated breath and then scream in astonishment when they pull off some amazing feat or another, absolutely. But the only athletes that have ever touched my heart have been women — Nadia Comăneci; Billie Jean King and the Title IX-sparking stars of women’s tennis; Dorothy Hamill; Brandi Chastain and 1999 Women’s World Cup winners; Venus and Serena Williams; Simone Biles; Caitlin Clark.

But here I am, at age 62, truly, madly, deeply in love with Lionel Messi.

I know, I know, me and half the world. Which normally would serve as an effective prophylactic. I am habitually wary of super-intense fandoms and the men who inspire them; stadiums filled with people chanting a single name inevitably set off internal alarm bells. As I have asked several times in columns throughout the years, how many “heroes” must we watch falter under pressure or be exposed for decidedly unheroic acts before we wise up and get out of the pedestal-placement business?

Yet here I am, stalking him on Instagram, up all hours flicking through interviews and career highlight clips. (I even watched the Apple TV docuseries “Messi Meets America”!) Here I am, literally praying to God, who clearly has more important things to do, for Argentina to advance and screaming Messi’s name every time he scores, assists or pretty much does anything at all.

In a matter of weeks, I have become addicted not just to watching the man play but seeing how he reacts when a shot is made or a game won.

Every World Cup player is happy when they or their team scores, but Messi is delighted. Like a kid seeing a puppy under the tree on Christmas morning. Like he cannot believe this wonderful thing that has just happened even if he was the one who sweat and ran and defied physics to make it happen.

His smile is infectious and even when he is running toward the stands, arms spread wide, after making some impossible shot or other, it never seems self-congratulatory. He is simply filled with joy and wants to spread it around. The field, the stadium, the world.

And his hugs. Long, deep, radiating emotion, utterly unself-conscious. Everyone needs to find someone who hugs them like Messi hugs people — teammates, coaches, opposing players, young fans. I could watch videos of him hugging his mentor and former teammate Ronaldinho or Argentina coach Lionel Scaloni all day long. (I’m not saying I have, nor am I saying I haven’t.)

Sometimes the hype gets a bit nauseating — former teammates who claim he never makes a mistake, commentators who refer to him as superhuman (despite the fact that he has missed as many penalty kicks as he has made in this World Cup). Whether Messi himself agrees that he is the GOAT is none of my business, but he doesn’t act like many sports stars who have received similar adulation. He doesn’t peacock, he doesn’t preen; he is visibly angry with himself when he doesn’t produce. He isn’t perfect — in various past games, he has gotten into heated disputes and shoving matches and famously (and many believe deservedly) taunted Netherlands coach Louis van Gaal during World Cup 2022. But for a man who has been such a star for so long, he presents himself as simply a player among players. The captain, certainly, but not the most important person on the field.

That is the most lovable, and superhuman, thing about him.

It feels pretty basic, not to mention embarrassing, to have a sudden summer crush on Messi, but I don’t care. He’s married to his childhood sweetheart, has three adorable sons and a picture of his mother tattooed on his back. He lets his teammates hoist him in the air and allows sports commentators to regularly (and lovingly) refer to him as “Little Messi.” He gets angry sometimes, but in this tournament he has yet to noticeably hector the refs or rumble with his opponents. He wants to win, obviously, but his joy comes from playing the game well rather than defeating another team.

That’s why, despite my newfound addiction to Messi delight, the moment I loved him best was when he didn’t celebrate at all. In the round of 32, Argentina (No. 2 in FIFA rankings) seemed guaranteed a win over Cape Verde (67). But even with Messi’s early goal, the game was a nail-biter, with Cape Verde scoring two brilliant goals while their goalie Vozinha made eight saves, including four shots (one of them a free kick) from Messi. After Argentina won in additional playing time, there was none of the usual jubilation. Instead, a subdued Messi walked to the midfield to shake hands with his opponents, a sign of exhaustion, no doubt, but also of respect. He hugged Vozinha and told him that his country should be proud of him.

The exuberance was back Tuesday, however, when, after trailing Egypt for most of the round of 16 game, Argentina managed to pull off the comeback of the tournament, going from a 0-2 deficit to a 3-2 win after the 79th minute, with Messi scoring the tying goal.

This time, the smiles, the hugs, the radiant joy filling Atlanta Stadium could have powered the entire state of Georgia. This time, Messi was so happy, he wept.

So did I. The World Cup is over in less than two weeks, and France and Spain are currently the 1-2 favorites to win the thing. My love for Messi is, after all, just a summer romance.

And as with any summer romance, I want it to last forever.

WASHINGTON — Holiday gatherings and major life events have come with an empty seat. Certain dates on the calendar meant time at a cemetery, standing before granite stones.

They are a relatively small group of people, scattered across different states, but they share a common bond that stretches decades: Each had a family member die violently in the struggle for voting and civil rights, victims on a long and difficult path marked by blood that ended when the country seemed to mature into the nation of its creed.

But 61 years later, and as the country approaches its 250th anniversary this weekend, those sacrifices are in question. In a series of decisions over the last dozen years, including one in April, the Supreme Court has essentially dismantled the law that their family members died to see enacted, the Voting Rights Act of 1965.

“My mother’s blood is on that bill. We were always proud of that, and now it’s gone,” said Anthony Liuzzo, whose mother, Viola Liuzzo, died on an Alabama highway between Selma and Montgomery while driving marchers in 1965.

Critics of the law contend that times have changed, an argument Chief Justice John G. Roberts Jr. made in a 2013 decision that was the first major step in rolling back the law.

Survivors of lost loved ones disagree, pointing to the speed with which Republican-led state legislatures eliminated majority-Black congressional districts after the court’s April ruling, which severely weakened a section of the law that had protected voting rights for minority communities. They feel anger and sadness that a milestone political victory decades ago has been reversed, but they are committed to keep fighting.

A church bombing and a chunk of concrete

Lisa McNair was born Sept. 19, 1964. Her older sister, Denise, died in the Sept 15, 1963, bombing of the 16th Street Baptist Church in Birmingham, Ala. The church had been a central organizing point for civil rights protest.

The explosion killed Denise McNair, 11, and 14-year-olds Addie Mae Collins, Carole Robertson and Cynthia Morris Wesley. Nearly two dozen others were injured. Three Ku Klux Klansmen were convicted years later.

One of Lisa McNair’s early memories of her sister was of the box that their grandmother kept from the funeral home. It included Denise McNair’s shoes, a purse and a rock-sized piece of concrete that had been embedded in her skull.

The crime brought the civil rights struggle onto the national stage and outraged President Kennedy.

The times were tumultuous, McNair said, but it seemed the nation was heading in the right direction. Most of her life, “I’ve seen advances” on television, in commercials, with interracial marriages, civil rights and voting rights, “a plethora of rights that we got over the greater part of my lifetime.” But that has changed, she said.

McNair, 61, said she is “physically sick” about the Supreme Court decision and subsequent actions by lower courts and legislatures.

“I am constantly working to pray my way through it, so I can get up and go to work in the morning and do what I need to do. But I just want to ask every white person I see, ‘What more do you want?;” she said. “‘Why do you hate us so?’”

They left for Freedom Summer and never came home

Michael Schwerner, known as Mickey, came from a family in which human rights activism and challenging social norms were expected. He was in Mississippi in 1964 as part of Freedom Summer when he, Andrew Goodman and James Chaney vanished one day in June while investigating a bombing at a Black church.

Their bodies were found weeks later, buried in an earthen dam in a rural area of Neshoba County. Schwerner, 24, and Goodman, 20, were white; Chaney, 21, was Black.

Stephen Schwerner, who died earlier this year and was a social activist in his own right, told the Associated Press in a 2023 interview that as soon as the family heard his younger brother and the other men were missing, they knew they were dead.

“Our family was very out front in the media that the only reason there was international attention was two of the young men were white,” said Stephen’s daughter, Cassie Schwerner. “Had all three of those young men been Black, they would have ended up absent from our history and our narrative.”

The executive director of Morningside Center for Teaching Social Responsibility, Cassie Schwerner, said her family has followed voting rights through their ups and downs. That includes the 2013 Supreme Court decision that allowed states and counties with a history of discriminatory voting rules to make changes without prior approval from the Department of Justice.

The court’s April decision, she said, brought rage “and a good deal of sadness — not for me and my family, but for this country.” There is, she said, work to be done on multiple fronts.

Rights paid for in blood turned out to be fragile

Tamara Orange said among her many thoughts when she heard of the Supreme Court decision in this year’s Voting Rights Act case, there was relief — “relief that my dad is not here to see that; that Jimmie Lee Jackson is not here to see it; that Viola Liuzzo is not here to see it,” she said. “I’m relieved for them because to me, it’s as though the sacrifices that were made were done in vain.”

Her father, James Orange, was working with the Southern Christian Leadership Conference to organize voting rights protests in Marion and Perry County, Ala., in 1965. When juveniles joined the effort, he was arrested for contributing to the delinquency of minors. Concern arose that Orange was going to be taken out of the jail and lynched.

A protest to intervene ended with Jackson, a 26-year-old Black church deacon, being shot in the stomach by a state trooper while Jackson tried to shield his mother and grandfather.

His death was the catalyst for what became the Selma-to-Montgomery march and “Bloody Sunday.”

Orange stayed in the movement all his life and died in 2008, Tamara Orange said. But even after the Voting Rights Act passed, “he would say, ‘Be careful or we’re going to lose it.’”

‘We got bad news for you’

Anthony Liuzzo had just turned 10 when his mother, 39, left their middle-class neighborhood in Michigan and headed for Selma. She had cried as she watched scenes from “Bloody Sunday” on television.

Viola Liuzzo participated in a portion of the second march and then helped drive other civil rights protesters around the Black Belt region of the state. On March 25, 1965, she was driving one protester between Selma and Montgomery when a vehicle pulled alongside and fired into the car.

The phone call came around midnight. Anthony Liuzzo remembers the caller asking his dad, “Is your wife Viola? We got bad news for you. She’s been shot.” When his father asked whether she was all right, the caller said, “No, she’s dead,” and then hung up.

An informant for the FBI quickly identified members of the Ku Klux Klan as her killers. The three men charged would escape conviction on state charges but be convicted in federal court.

Anthony Liuzzo and his siblings lived with the lost birthdays and other missed milestones. His comfort was that the voting rights she had died for had become a reality. But the April ruling by the Supreme Court and the subsequent rush by Republican-led legislatures in several Southern states to eliminate congressional districts represented by Black lawmakers left him angry and distraught.

Even so, he said he is still proud his mother had the courage to go to Selma “when others sat in their pretty little houses.”

One morning, the Klan returned

The inscription at the bottom of Vernon Dahmer Sr.’s tombstone reads simply: “If you don’t vote, you don’t count.”

It is a message that embodies his life’s work and the story behind his death.

Even after President Johnson signed the Voting Rights Act, not every state was eager to implement the new law. In Mississippi, it came with a poll tax. The amount was $2, but in a world where a farmworker’s wages might only be $5 a day, that was substantial, said Dahmer’s son, Dennis Dahmer Sr.

The elder Dahmer, 57 at the time of his death, was a successful businessman who owned a store, sawmill and farm near Hattiesburg. He also was a civil rights leader and NAACP president in Ford County. He offered to pay the $2 for Black residents who wanted to register to vote.

He had already been under scrutiny by the local Ku Klux Klan. There was harassment and there were threatening phone calls. The windows were shot out of his store, but no one challenged him directly because his sons were always present and armed.

That seemed to tail off after Johnson signed the law.

“The Klan quit calling,” Dennis Dahmer said. “They quit shooting out the windows, so my family thought that all of this was behind us.”

That changed in the early hours of Jan. 10, 1966, when two carloads of Klansmen showed up. They firebombed the house and adjacent grocery store and began shooting at the house. The elder Dahmer shot back, using his ample arsenal to fight off the attack.

His wife and the three children who were home survived, but he suffered severe injuries from inhaling the smoke and fumes from the flames. He died later that day.

Dennis Dahmer was 12 as he stood next to his dad’s hospital bed. He wondered why some people wanted his father dead just for trying to help Black people vote.

A former Imperial Wizard of the Ku Klux Klan, Sam Bowers, was convicted in 1998 for the attack and sentenced to life in prison.

Like the families of other survivors, Dennis Dahmer’s family has witnessed the methodical dismantling of the Voting Rights Act.

“Finally, they basically turned it into a relic,” he said.

His plan now is activism, to speak out and promote the need for a massive voter turnout. He also wants to remind people of the price that certain families paid for everyone to have the right to vote and be represented by someone of their choosing.

“We’re living in a time when America has a lot of the same characteristics of the 1960s that I grew up in,” he said. “People say, ‘Are we going back?’ Hell, we’re already there.”

Fields writes for the Associated Press.

The fluorescent green gaiters seemed a ridiculous suggestion, but prove a godsend as we plod across the sand. “I bet you’re glad I told you to get a pair of these bad boys now, aren’t you?” my friend Luke jokes. We’re marching across a wide, crescent-shaped, honeyed beach. The sun is high in the sky and slivers of light flicker through a thick sea fog, as 6ft waves crash and fizz, their white foam licking the towering limestone cliffs.

I’m in Portugal, in the west Algarve, with two friends, hiking part of the Rota Vicentina, or Fishermen’s Trail, a 140-mile (226km) trek that runs from Lagos to São Torpes in Alentejo. Traversing cliffs that lead to wild, remote beaches like this one is part of the trail’s calling card. As the name suggests, it was originally carved out by fishers to reach otherwise inaccessible fishing spots along the Atlantic Ocean. Now it’s part of the Rota Vicentina, a hiking and cycling route spanning 466 miles across Portugal.

Already, this corner of the Algarve feels a far cry from downtown Lagos, where we’d been woken up the night before by noisy tourists after one too many Super Bocks. Our official starting point is 25 minutes away in Salema – a fishing village set within the Vicentine Coast natural park.

The sedate seaside haven is perhaps how the rest of the Algarve was before mass tourism arrived in this part of the Iberian peninsula following the opening of Faro airport in the 1960s. More than 20 million tourists visited the Algarve last year, 5.7 million of them from the UK.

Visitors to Salema drift in and out like the tide, pottering along cobbled streets, past traditional blue-and-white fishers’ cottages, stopping to indulge in fresh seafood on the terraces of family-run restaurants overlooking the long, empty beach flanked by chalky cliffs.

Tempted to postpone the first day of hiking to idle away the hours, we instead polish off a load of pastéis de nata and a bica or two down at Pastelaria Solmar, then set off. For the first few miles, we wend along a relatively flat, clay-coloured coastal path, following the blue-and-green striped Fishermen’s Trail logo that should lead us to Sagres.

Keeping the sea to the left (we’re heading north), it’s easy to navigate. Magical, too, with views stretching as far as the eye can see, across an Atlantic Ocean glinting in the summer sun. Occasionally, we have to scramble up or down a steep, rocky embankment. But the rewards, a series of serene beaches that seem to get better with every mile, make it worthwhile. Given the remote location, these pretty coves attract only the hardiest beach-goers, and the odd naturist.

Over the day’s almost 12-mile hike, we hardly see another soul. So, when we arrive at Sagres, we’re ready for some human interaction. The seafaring town is where slave trader Henry the Navigator spent the final years of his life. Nowadays, Sagres is better known for its enviable surf breaks.

“I’m ready for a Sagres in Sagres,” Luke says, as we drop our bags and freshen up at Alojamento Mareta, a modest two-bed apartment that hovers on a cliffside with a blushing garden and sea views (about £78 per night). We mooch around looking for somewhere for dinner and a cold beer.

Sagres doesn’t have any sense of coherent organisation; its scattering of cafes, restaurants and bars appear to have been sketched out by bored teenagers when the city planners were on holiday. Instead of joining a growing gaggle of surfers waiting for live music to start at Three Little Birds, we order piri-piri chicken and a glug of local wine from the family-run Cafe Conchinha and retire to bed.

Waking early, we zip down to the empty Mareta beach for a meditation session led by another friend, James, before plunging into the icy sea. As if the morning isn’t already wholesome enough, we head to the Laundry Lounge – a boho, wooden-clad laundrette-cum-brunch spot – for a 90-minute yoga session and some breakfast before getting back on the road.

We make our way to Cabo de São Vicente, where a 19th-century lighthouse sits perilously on an isolated rocky headland whipped by the elements. Mainland Europe’s most southwesterly point was known as the “end of the world”. It’s not hard to understand why. There’s nothing but an endless melange of blue water and craggy cliffs bathed in a golden light. It’s little wonder that the Greeks and Romans believed it to be a sacred promontory.

Later, we cut inland across a pancake flat expanse of arid shrubland with only the odd purple thistle for colour. Then, after 12 miles or so, we arrive in Vila do Bispo, a dusty, eerily quiet town, like something from a spaghetti western. Low-rise, pastel-coloured houses seem worn by time and old dusty cars sit beneath purple wisteria on cobbled street corners.

Fish, hung out to dry on washing lines, flap around in the wind as we wander the streets looking for somewhere to eat. We stumble across Pisco, an unassuming restaurant with a cosy atmosphere – whitewashed walls hung with art and crammed with wine bottles – where the vegetarian menu has excellent Mediterranean dishes, sourdough pizzas and organic wines.

Charging back towards the coast the following morning, we arrive at perhaps the most picturesque part of the hike. On the cliffs above Praia da Pena Furada, a vast, windswept beach, we perch on the cliffside for a moment to admire tall sea stacks battered by waves, the wind whistling through them as gulls swoop like kites overhead. It feels more like Steinbeck’s California than the Algarve. But for the hissing of the sea, everything is silent.

We barely say a word to one another until we land at the impossibly long sandy beach of Bordeira near Carrapateira a few hours later. The atmosphere here couldn’t be more different. The beach is busy with Portuguese holidaymakers and surfers. It’s the perfect antidote to hiking fatigue, so we settle in for a well-deserved burger at the hillside beach bar Amadobar as low-fi rock drifts from the speakers and surfers paddle out to distant breakers.

Our digs for the night, which we make our way to after sunset, are about 20 minutes from the beach. Carrapateira Lodge (about £52 per night) sits in the centre of a small, charming whitewashed town with a scattering of restaurants, bars, cafes and surf shops. We dine alfresco on the cobbles just off the main plaza at O Pontal, getting to work on plates of tender octopus, roasted salt cod and beef entrecote to sustain ourselves for tomorrow’s final push.

When we arrive at Arrifana, our final destination the following afternoon, we’re beat. The parish town is settled on the hillside in the Aljezur municipality. Like Carrapateira, it’s popular with surfers. It feels closer to the Algarve most visitors know in some ways, but it’s still relatively low key. A single lane road helter-skelters down to another postcard-worthy beach, where there’s a sprinkling of bars and restaurants. Shattered, we round off the trip watching sunset at Café Restaurante Sol E Mar, a no-frills bar that spills out on to the headland overlooking the beach, which is busier than others we’ve passed but not as crowded as other Algarve hotspots I’ve visited. No rowdy Britons in sight – except us three.

FATHER’S DAY is just around the corner, but what to give the dad who’s had his fill of novelty socks?

Welcome to PalmerSport, the world’s best-kept secret for petrolheads.

Most driving experiences get you three laps in a leggy Lambo beside a terrified instructor telling you to change up early.

But there’s none of that at PalmerSport’s Experience Days, the ultimate all-inclusive racing theme park.

Set across 400 acres at Bedford Autodrome, it boasts four purpose-built circuits and more than five miles of track.

The dream of ex-F1 ace Jonathan Palmer, it’s been designed for speed and space so there are no grandstands or Armco to hit.

And it’s a good job, too, as unlike any other gift experience you’ve ever been to, you will be pushed to your absolute limit.

I’m greeted by a hearty full English, before a safety briefing, and then it’s helmets on and straight to my first track session.

Everyone is placed in small teams, and all the sessions are professionally timed so you have a crack at a fastest-lap trophy.

The cars are staggering.

My favourites were the McLaren Artura GT4 and Ginetta G56 GTA – both full-blown race cars with slicks and roll cage.

But I never felt too intimidated once on track, thanks to the brilliant instructors.

They gave me immediate feedback over the helmet intercom, and there’s dual controls to help get you out of trouble.

You build up steadily and your last lap should always be your fastest, plus the 596bhp McLaren boasts in-car video and telemetry so I could analyse my quickest time.

We were hitting 135mph on the short back straight, with the instructor telling me precisely when to stamp on the brakes before slicing towards the apex.

The Ginetta felt like a touring car race, raucously good fun and forgiving.

But the real “heart in your mouth” stuff comes on the West Circuit.

The Palmer JP-LM is a sports prototype inspired by the 200mph racers at Le Mans.

It will pull 2.5g in the corners and sap tears from your eyes under braking.

Listen to your instructor carefully, though – as next time you’re out, it’s solo.

It’s truly mind-blowing to think that, in a land of health-and-safety trigger warnings these days, they will squeeze you into a Formula 3000 single-seater.

There’s no instructor, just pure driving in your own mini-Ayrton Senna nirvana.

You also get taster laps in a new 650bhp Hyundai IONIQ 5 N – that alone would be a £250 experience day.

And I still haven’t finished yet.

There’s a full off-road course, where I get to pilot a Defender 90 over obstacles I couldn’t walk up in crampons.

The all-inclusive day means breakfast, refreshments, lunch and afternoon tea – plus the driving experiences – are all part of the package.

I also get a photo taken alongside the McLaren, and in-car video of my fastest laps in the GT4 and F3000.

While it might not exactly be cheap, if you tried to replicate it independently it would cost you twice as much – and the driver coaching alone is priceless.