trips

An Edinburgh institution

W Armstrong in Edinburgh is a true institution. There are several locations, but the Grassmarket spot is a treasure trove. Frequented by locals, students and tourists alike, there is a price point for all. Whether I’ve been on the hunt for vintage cashmere, denim, fabulous 1950s dresses, garb for a fancy dress party or even a kilt, this store has sorted me out. It is always a favourite for when friends visit the city, and whether you are looking to buy or not, it is worth a visit just to see its eclectic collection.
Amy

An Erasmus exchange took me to Budapest, where I discovered a city full of vintage shops and flea markets. The city is dotted with Humana shops for staple wardrobe finds; there’s the Ecseri flea market for the more unusual (interspersed with the occasional plastic Stalin bust); plus chic, rambling stores like Szputnyik and Retrock Vintage – think racks of leather jackets and tulle tops among giant monstera plants. Antiques shops are also found tucked away, their contents spilling on to the pavements outside. A particularly favourite find was a set of intricate hand-painted embroidery layouts on kraft paper from the 1930s, each signed by the artist.
Katie

Lyon’s canalside treasure trove

A travel influencer has shared her top tips for budget-friendly trips to some of Europe’s best destinations for Christmas markets – without taking a second off work

Mainland Europe is blessed with dozens of renowned Christmas markets, making these stunning cities extra magical at the festive period. But the cost of heading abroad for a worthwhile trip to places like Berlin or Copenhagen can often put us off even trying. Thankfully, one travel influencer has the answer.

TikTok user Caitlin Pagano has trawled through Skyscanner for budget flights to a handful of beautiful city destinations where Christmas shopping delights tourists and locals alike. Taking the stress out of finding cheap flights, Caitlin has picked out 8 European cities that offer return trips for less than £150.

What’s more, she’s made it so you don’t even need to take time off work. Caitlin’s flight picks are all scheduled to leave on Friday, December 12 after 6pm and arriving back in the UK before midnight on Sunday, December 14.

While the price now differs slightly from when she highlighted the trips in her TikTok post, all of the round trips still cost less than £200. The cheapest is a £70 trip to Gothenburg in Sweden via Ryanair from London Stansted airport.

Caitlin captioned her post: “9-5 people, I got you! Flying out late on a Friday with return flights on a Sunday evening.”

Gothenburg, Sweden

Most of the flights she suggested head out from Stansted, while three depart from other London airports. First up is her suggested trip to Gothenburg, which departs at 7.50pm and arrives at 10.45pm local time.

The flight back leaves Sweden at 10.30pm, getting you back on British shores by 11.25pm. The price has gone up from £48 return, but the £70 fare is a bargain to visit a market that’s been called “fantastic” by visitors on Tripadvisor.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Next up is a trip to Copenhagen for £144 return with Ryanair. Leave at 7.25pm to arrive at 10.20pm local time, before departing the city at 10.15pm and landing back at Stansted at 11.10pm.

However, the price for this journey to the capital of Denmark has now doubled – with fares at £144. Tripadvisor reviewers say the Tivoli Gardens market is like “stepping into a fairytale” with rides and entertainment.

Berlin, Germany

Berlin’s Christmas markets are legendary, and now thanks to a £151 fare you can enjoy them over the course of a weekend. While the cost is around 50% higher than Caitlin’s post suggested, you can enjoy Berlin at a reasonable rate thanks to Ryanair.

The flight leaves Stansted at 7pm, arriving in Germany at 9.50pm. After a weekend exploring markets that visitors called “spectacular”, you’ll be home in time for dinner. The return trip leaves Berlin at 6.30pm, and arrives at Stansted at 7.20pm.

Cologne, Germany

Another German destination famed for its Christmas markets, Cologne’s gothic architecture is the perfect backdrop for festive fun. However, it’s also the most expensive destination on the list.

Prices have nearly doubled since Caitlin’s post, but a trip to the iconic market in the shadow of Cologne’s “imposing” cathedral is well worth the cost. Ryanair offers flights for £199 from Stansted at 6.35pm, arriving at 8.55pm.

The return trip at 2pm on Sunday means you’ll get back at 2.20pm UK time, so make the most of the Saturday to take in all Cologne has to offer. Tripadvisor reviewers hailed the markets, labelling it “amazing” and “magical”.

Gdansk, Poland

Christmas markets in Gdansk leave this “stunning” city “twinkling” at night, according to one Tripadvisor reviewer. And it’s also the second cheapest escape on Caitlin’s list, with prices starting at £89 at the time of writing.

That fare will get you from to Gdansk by 10.40pm, having taken a Ryanair flight operated by Buzz at 7.20pm from Stansted. The return journey lands just before midnight, and is operated by Malta Air – leaving Gdansk at 10.30pm and arriving at Stansted at 11.50pm.

Vienna, Austria

If flying from Stansted isn’t convenient, there are other options available. A trip to the “dazzling” Christmas markets in Vienna was labelled as a “must-do” by one Tripadvisor user.

The Austrian capital, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is less than two and a half hours away from London via plane. Austrian Airlines offer a £184 return journey that leaves London Heathrow at 7.25pm, arriving at 10.40pm.

The return leaves Vienna International Airport at 5.15pm, and lands in the UK at 6.40pm. Although the time in the city is slightly shorter than other destinations, Tripadvisor reviews recommend it as being “probably the most beautiful city to visit for Christmas”.

Budapest, Hungary

Another alternative airport to fly from offering easy, affordable flights to Europe’s stunning Christmas markets is London Luton, where you can reach Budapest’s festive scenes. Wizz Air offer return flights for just under £200.

Leaving Luton at 7.20pm, the outgoing flight touches down in Hungary at 10.50pm local time. The next day, you can enjoy a “buzzing” market, with a “beautiful” lights show projected onto the Basilica.

Flights are a little earlier, unfortunately. Wizz Air’s jet takes off from Budapest at 4.55pm, arriving back at Luton at 6.40pm.

Edinburgh

If you want to stay in the UK, Caitlin highlighted a trip to Edinburgh – which, by air, takes just 85 minutes. Although Caitlin’s suggested journey had skyrockets in price from the original £88 fare, for just £5 more than that you can still enjoy all the sights and sounds in Scotland without losing much time.

An Easyjet flight to Edinburgh leaves Stansted at 9.45pm, arriving at 11pm. The return journey, run by Ryanair, leaves at 8.20pm and arrives at 9.45pm – all for £93.

The New Forest destination lauded for its picturesque palace, renowned motor museum and stunning river has been dubbed of one of the top UK villages for a winter getaway

A picturesque spot on the fringes of the New Forest has been crowned one of the top “prettiest villages for a cosy winter getaway”. Beaulieu, a “quintessential English village” in Hampshire, was bestowed this honour by National Rail, who described it as an “absolute gem”.

The village is lauded for its array of attractions, including a magnificent palace and motor museum, and a delightful river.

Beaulieu Palace is recognised as one of the UK’s ten ‘Treasure Houses’, marking it as an “architectural masterpiece” surrounded by “beautiful parklands and gardens”. The house, which has been the Montagu family residence since 1538, overlooks the Beaulieu River millpond. It’s hailed as a “fine example of a Victorian country house”, adorned with family heirlooms, portraits and memorabilia.

One visitor shared their experience on TripAdvisor: “Fabulous and interesting especially when decorated for Christmas. Plenty to see and do, very worthwhile visit.”, reports the Express.

Another enthused: “Really excellent house full of historical memorabilia and family links to the owners and their forbears. Everything well displayed and the staff on hand helped bring things to life.”

A third reviewer posted: “Beaulieu Palace is maintained in splendid condition, with well-informed and costumed staff to explain how the house operated in yesteryear and exhibits from the generations who lived there bringing each room to life.”

At Beaulieu, guests can purchase a single ticket granting entry to both the Palace and the National Motor Museum. The museum boasts “one of the finest collections of cars, motorcycles and motoring memorabilia in the world“.

Beaulieu National Motor Museum holds a TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice Award, with one visitor commenting: “What a glorious place! Absolutely brilliant collection of cars in lovely grounds. My children (10 year old car enthusiast and a 3 year old) were kept entertained all day.”

Close by, situated along the banks of the Beaulieu River, lies the 18th century shipbuilding settlement of Buckler’s Hard, renowned for constructing warships for Nelson’s Navy.

Guests can explore the museum which recounts the tales of the vessels and the village’s inhabitants, or stroll down the main street to observe boats sailing on the waterway.

There’s also a picturesque, two-mile walking trail to discover, and tourists can embark on a cruise along Beaulieu River. One holidaymaker remarked: “A smashing place overlooking the river. Plenty of quaint old cottages from its shipbuilding past to walk around. And we also had a delightful trip on the boat down the river.” Another described it as like “stepping back in time”.

Winning tip: rediscovering Interrail 45 years on

I went Interrailing at 16 – so decided to do it again at 61! My wife and I bought our passes for all of Europe (under £500 for one-month unlimited rail trips) and it was great to rediscover the sense of freedom and adventure travelling by train gave. Having a romantic dinner in Paris, getting on the night train and having coffee and croissants for breakfast in Nice on the Côte d’Azur for example. I corrected the teenage mistake of trying to do too much and see too many places so we lingered longer in places such as Poland and Romania, soaking up the atmosphere in Wrocław and Bucharest. It was interesting to compare the speed, quality and comfort of train services too. We found that sometimes slow travel was better – like when we got on the wrong train from Rome to Naples, allowing us to appreciate the scenery, locals and way of life of people who were not in a hurry. The trip was a learning experience at 61 as much as it had been at 16.
Peter

Flight and fancy-free, cycling from Saint-Malo to Nice

In pursuit of a flight-free adventure, we packed our bikes (and several panniers) on to the Eurostar for a three-week cycling trip across France. Our initial worries about sore legs and flat tyres quickly faded away as we pedalled along comfortable cycle lanes in the picturesque French countryside, fuelled by village boulangeries and cold local beer. We covered 1,040 miles from Saint-Malo to Nice via the Dordogne, staying in B&Bs or rented apartments each night (from £100 per night). Highlights included stops for refreshing swims in rivers, avoiding airport chaos, and proving that holidays in your 60s can be active and fun.
Karen and Andrew

I put away the atlas and had the time of my life in Powys

I turned 60 in 2015. With one eye on my pension settlement and another on the atlas, I dreamed of travelling the world, staying in breathtaking locations with stupendous views. I never realised that the most rewarding stay would be in a tiny cabin in Clyro, Powys. Was it the compact design, the comfortable bed, the picture windows framed by woods and pasture? Partly, but more importantly I learned how little I needed to feel happy and comfortable. In this beautiful woodland setting, within walking distance of a pub and not too far from twee little Hay-on-Wye, I had everything I needed.
Linda

I went to Japan for the cherry blossom – and saw it at its peak

At 69, I embarked on an 18-day solo adventure across Japan. My goal was to witness the cherry blossom, and I saw it at its peak. Starting in Osaka, my journey led me through Kyoto, Kobe, Okayama, Kurashiki and finally Tokyo. I wandered through historic gardens unchanged for centuries, admired weeping cherry trees along riverbanks, and watched sakura reflections dance across still ponds. Every path seemed lined with blossom, and side trips to shrines, temples and castles deepened the sense of timeless wonder.
Marilisa Fiorani

Squabbles and giggles from London to San Sebastián

Five female friends from York to Brighton, collected over 54 years from university, between 74 and 84, do rail trips round Europe. Last year we did London to Paris, staying in La Rochelle, Bordeaux and San Sebastián. We are like an extended marriage, dipping in and out of shared history, politics, and to disagree and insult each other with only temporary hurt. It takes months of planning, each person booking accommodation or part of the rail journey – which is where the Man in Seat 61 is so helpful. We are three vegetarians, two meat eaters, four fish eaters, two teetotallers. At an amazing fish restaurant in La Rochelle, one of the two vegetarians asked: “Couldn’t you do us an omelette?” The waiter chased them away rather angrily, but the rest of us had delicious seafood with good wine. In La Rochelle we disagreed over the way to the Airbnb. Running late, we were greeted with applause by the owner’s mother, who had spotted five old ladies with backpacks and wheelie suitcases from many metres away!
Sue

Brittany on two wheels is heaven

Earlier this summer, at 64, I used a 22-year-old van conversion as a base for exploring Brittany’s Gulf of Morbihan by bicycle. Pedalling along deserted lanes and canal paths, I discovered picture-book villages and towns, tidal creeks, coastal cliffs and ancient woodlands. I came across dolmens and menhirs, medieval castles and Nazi bunkers, and took ferries to car-free islands with empty beaches and incredible views. I rode to creperies for lunch and restaurants for dinner, ate like a king and slept like a baby. For a 64-year-old on two wheels, Brittany is nothing short of heaven.
Kelvin Atkins

Bewildering but beautiful Baku, Azerbaijan

The old town in Baku, Azerbaijan, is a bewildering labyrinth of alleys and roads, all packed inside fortified walls. Islamic, Russian colonial and post-independence influences merge in the architecture. A palace, mosques, museums, galleries and caravanserais are jammed together in delightful disarray. One highlight is the Maiden Tower, certainly 12th century and possibly once a Zoroastrian fire temple. The Philharmonic Garden, just beyond the wall, provides a calming green space. We enjoyed our stay at the Two Seasons boutique hotel in Sabir Street, and would recommend it.
Alex

I left my comfort zone for Turkmenistan

Visiting five former-Soviet “stans” in 34 days was destined to be challenging, regardless of age. But when you’re a pampered, weak-bladdered 65-year-old, yurt camps with outdoor toilets and shared facilities in family homes were not within my comfort zone. Crossing into countries with difficult neighbouring relationships proved time-consuming, with Turkmenistan, one of the world’s least visited countries, involving copious paperwork, expensive visas and, in June 2024, a Covid test. There was no ideal time to visit, and temperatures ranged from 40C to -10C at night. However, stunning scenery, friendly people and ubiquitous plov (a rice-based pilaf), meant I not only survived the trip but thoroughly loved it.
Helen Jackson

A trek to a holy valley in Nepal

In 2017, aged 69 and with friends, I took an eight-hour minibus journey from Kathmandu then walked for four days to get to the Tsum valley, a remote Himalayan valley close to the Nepalese border with Tibet. The path was about 3,000 metres high and was surrounded by the 7,000-metre peaks of the Ganesh Himāl; we found people living without mechanisation, roads, vehicles or wifi. Buddhists regard it as a beyul, a hidden and holy refuge to be discovered when it is feared the planet is approaching destruction and the world has become too corrupt for spiritual practice. It seemed an appropriate place to be, then and now. I planned the journey using Kathmandu-based trekking company Beyond the Limits.
Michael Wilson

Pedalling through Portugal’s Alentejo

My friend and I are both in our early 60s and love cycling in Portugal. It’s safe, has bicycle-considerate drivers and we always meet lovely, helpful local people. In September, we began our self-mapped tour in the southern Alentejo town of Évora, pedalling our way through remote, beautiful, rolling countryside, to our final destination of Olhão with its beautiful beaches, on the Algarve’s eastern coast.
Ruth Morris

Some 8% of adults surveyed said they use the technology to give them ideas for where to go on holiday, up from 4% a year earlier, a poll suggests

Double the number of people are turning to artificial intelligence (AI) for holiday planning inspiration compared to last year, fresh research reveals.

Travel industry body Abta, which commissioned the study, branded the technology a “creative co-pilot” that holidaymakers can utilise to research, plan and book their getaways. Around 8% of participants in a survey of 2,001 UK adults carried out in July admitted they use AI to spark ideas for their holiday destinations.

This marks a rise from 4% twelve months ago. Abta’s director of communications Graeme Buck suggested there is “a potential for this acceleration” to persist, stating: “I wouldn’t be surprised if that 8% becomes 16% next year.”

The most recent findings showed that those aged 25-34 are most inclined to harness the technology for holiday brainstorming, with 18% of participants in this age bracket confirming they do so.

OPINION

Milo Boyd

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This was followed by 35 to 44 year olds (14%). Among those 65 and over, the proportion dropped to merely 1%.

AI travel applications encompass services including chatbots and resources for translation and itinerary creation.

More than two in five (43%) survey participants indicated they would feel somewhat confident using AI to organise a holiday, though this fell to 38% when it came to actually making reservations.

Steve Heapy, CEO of Jet2, addressed travel industry leaders at Abta’s annual convention in Calvia, Spain, stating that technology like AI will “continue to become a bigger part of what customers do before they book”.

He added: “We’re all going to have to work harder to justify the margin that we want to earn by demonstrating superior knowledge of the product and providing that anticipation and excitement.”

Neil Swanson, UK managing director of Tui, forecasted that AI will “completely transform” the travel industry, but many customers will still prefer to book their trips through human travel agents.

He said: “That is not going away anytime soon, in my view, because of that group of customers who value that. They use the technology a lot of those customers, but they still want to go in and look someone in the eye when they’re booking something. They value that trust element.”

Abta CEO Mark Tanzer said: “The challenge is to harness the potential which AI has to support our businesses, while continuing to celebrate and champion the value of the personal touch and expertise which comes with booking with a travel agent or tour operator.”

Eloise Barker, a writer for Responsible Travel, seeks out places to go when your kids have outgrown Lapland that are more affordable than the Finnish winter wonderland has become in recent years

Lapland, with its powdery snow, Northern Lights and Sámi culture, is popular for good reason, but its Santa Claus package holidays are pricey and book up fast: more and more people are visiting, some even taking extreme trips to visit for just one day.

Last year, we reported that the average price for a family holiday in Lapland from the UK was between £4,000 and £7,000.

But Europe is packed with winter wonderlands. You won’t find the big man in the red suit in these destinations – but you’ll still have a jolly good holiday…

Have you been on an amazing Christmas trip that you think Mirror readers would enjoy? We’d love to hear about it. Email [email protected]

Slovenia

All of Slovenia’s mountain resorts can be reached within 90 minutes from Ljubljana, its compact and pretty capital. There’s been almost €80 million of investment in infrastructure like ski lifts across multiple resorts, where you can also sled, snowshoe and go winter walking. The Post Office’s annual ski report noted that the cost of skiing in Slovenia’s Kranjska Gora resort had fallen 23.5% in the 2024/2025 season compared to the year before. Plus: the city of Celje transforms into a fairytale land in December, earning it the title ‘European City of Christmas 2025’.

• The average price of a double room in Slovenia is £121/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Ljubljana start at £29 in December; from Edinburgh, £76 (Skyscanner).

Slovakia

“Slovakia really is a very authentic, family-friendly winter destination and the High Tatras is still a hidden gem of Europe,” says Petr Ivanek, founder of Slovakia Explorer. “In comparison to the Alps or Lapland – British pounds go much further.”

There are thermal spas, water parks like Bešenova Aqua Park, and snowy High Tatras resorts, and the mountains are less crowded than at Zakopane on the Polish side of their slopes. Stop in Bratislava first: last year, the Post Office named Slovakia’s capital as Europe’s cheapest Christmas market destination.

• The average price of a double room in Slovakia is £96/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Bratislava in December start at £15; from Edinburgh, £26. Direct flights from London to Poprad start at £15 (Skyscanner).

Czech Republic

For all things Christmassy, consider the Czech Republic. Prices fell in the country last year, and Brno was voted European Capital of Christmas in 2024. Capital Prague remains a staple for Christmas markets and child-friendly activities, plus its public transport is free for children under 15. Fun fact: the Czech Republic has arguably the largest ice skating ‘rink’ in the world – at Lake Lipno, just outside the medieval fairytale town of Cesky Krumlov.

• The average price of a double room in the Czech Republic is £111/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Prague start at £26 in December; from Edinburgh, £42 (Skyscanner).

Romania

Swap the beaten track for wolf prints in the snow – in Transylvania, where villagers go Christmas carolling in traditional costume between beautifully decorated wooden houses.

You can ride about by horse-drawn sleigh or husky sled, and see atmospheric Brasov city and Bran Castle with beguiling snowy backdrops. Or switch the very old for the very new: an ice hotel, the only one in southeastern Europe, is built every year, 2,000m up in the Făgăraș Mountains.

• The average price of a double room in Romania is £83/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Brasov start at £56 in December (Skyscanner).

Bulgaria

“Two of Bulgaria’s national parks, Rila and Pirin, offer wonderful opportunities for winter holidays and for families interested in winter sports such as skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing,” says Anna Tuliyska at Sofia-based travel company Odysseia-In. The regions’ thermal springs also come into their own in cold weather. Whilst prices have risen in Bulgaria and may rise again when it adopts the euro in January 2026, the Post Office report ranked Bulgarian ski resorts among the cheapest in Europe in 2025.

• The average price of a double room in Bulgaria is £101/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Sofia start at £17 in December; from Edinburgh, £36 (Skyscanner).

Morocco

Morocco is not the baking hot destination you might expect in winter – average December temperatures are around 13°C, with highs in the 20s. Winter is an excellent time to take older kids to Morocco’s portion of the Sahara Desert.

Expect camel treks instead of husky rides, powdery sand not powdery snow, and sandboarding over snowboarding. Bolt on a stay in Marrakech for souks and stocking fillers – with the snowy peaks of the Atlas

Mountains framing the horizon. Prices drop in the winter months but can rise over Christmas.

• The average price of a double room in Morocco is £180/night (Kayak).
• Direct flights from London to Marrakech start at £15 in December; from Edinburgh, £31 (Skyscanner).

Haworth, West Yorkshire

Bradford is 2025’s UK City of Culture, and Wild Uplands is part of the year-long celebration that involves four new installations on the moors above Haworth, 10 miles west of central Bradford. There are pink marble butterflies designed by Meherunnisa Asad. On the ridge above, Steve Messam’s 10-metre tower of locally quarried stone looks out over heather-purple hills. These works are dotted around the lake and abandoned quarries of Penistone Hill country park and a family-friendly guide charts a route around all four. While wandering over the moors, you can tune into a geolocated immersive soundscape, Earth & Sky, which includes music by Bradford-born composer Frederick Delius. The Brontë Bus from Hebden Bridge via Keighley stops three times an hour in Haworth, and it’s then a 15-minute stroll past the Parsonage to Penistone Hill. Haworth’s steep, cobbled Main Street is lined with pubs and cafes such as the Writers’ Bloc, which opened in November 2024 and serves cream teas inside a hollowed-out book. At the bottom of the street, Haworth Old Hall has a choice of locally distilled gins.
To 12 October, bradford2025.co.uk

Folkestone, Kent

The 2025 Folkestone Triennial, the UK’s biggest urban collection of contemporary outdoor artworks, features new site-specific works by artists from around the world. It is free and open daily until 19 October, and you can choose your own routes using the map in the digital guide. No 15 is an old Martello tower containing Katie Paterson’s extraordinary years-long project Afterlife. She has fashioned 197 amulets from matter embodying the harm caused by the climate crisis: fragments of charred wood from burnt forests, stones from islands menaced by rising seas … Walk past Jennifer Tee’s Oceans Tree of Life, a seaweed sculpture of brick and fused sea glass built into the grassy clifftop, to reach Sara Trillo’s chalky Urn Field. Down some steps off the harbour arm, don’t miss Red Erratic by Dorothy Cross, a waterside block of red Syrian marble carved with human feet. Stop off at Herbert’s for an ice-cream, where artist Emeka Ogboh has designed a lolly that tastes like lemon cheesecake and can be dipped (sherbet dip-dab-style) into a slightly salty-spicy coating that looks like sand. Ogboh’s choral sound installation Ode to the Channel is a few minutes’ walk away past Sunny Sands beach. Here you can sit on the steps with your ice-cream and listen to the music and the waves.
To 19 October, creativefolkestone.org.uk

Newquay, Cornwall

A series of new murals are appearing on walls around Newquay. There are colourful seaside abstracts, bouncing beachballs, a fisher mending nets by candlelight … Bus 56 from Newquay runs hourly up to Porth, where local artist Phil Strugnell has painted a big, colourful mural on the side of the SeaSpace aparthotel. From here, you can follow the coast path back to Newquay for a couple of miles. Skirting Lusty Glaze and Towan Beach, walk through the ancient burial site at the Barrowfields to reach the town. Stroll past the new murals, each one with a QR code to give you details about the artist, and end near Elle Koziupa’s chiaroscuro fisher opposite Sainsbury’s.
Muqy Street Art Trail, ovenqy.co.uk

Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire

The British Ceramics Biennial in Stoke-on-Trent runs until late October. More than 60 artists, including comedian Johnny Vegas, are involved in films, events and exhibitions in the Spode Works, a historic ceramics factory 10 minutes’ walk from Stoke-on-Trent station. There are regular trains from Crewe, London Euston and elsewhere. A bronze Josiah Wedgwood stands opposite the station, holding a copy of the Portland Vase. Spode is a maze of old factory buildings, storerooms and galleries. New commissions include Playscape, turning clay spoil into a playground, and Josie KO celebrating Black women in Stoke with a collaborative bottle kiln-inspired goddess. When you’ve finished exploring Spode Works, follow the new Living Heritage trail, which launched in April, and starts from Spode. There are Staffordshire oatcakes and deep-filled sarnies at the Quarter, while the Little Vintage Tea Room at Spode Museum has homemade cakes and a mosaic counter designed by artist Philip Hardaker, inspired by Spode’s blue Italian ceramics.
To 19 October, britishceramicsbiennial.com

Wolterton, Norfolk

Wolterton Hall and its 200-hectare (500-acre) estate have been closed to the public for decades. Now a new art and culture programme comes with a chance to explore the Palladian house and grounds during opening hours (generally Wed to Sun, 11am to 4pm) if you book a free ticket online. The inaugural exhibition, Sea State, includes tempestuous new North Sea-inspired works by Maggi Hambling and painted-steel wave-form sculptures by Ro Robertson in the Marble Hall. In the old Portrait Room, don’t miss Hambling’s moving tribute to her late partner of 40 years, Tory. This is less an art trail than a parkland stroll and indoor exhibition, but both are lovely. Maps available at Wolterton offer various routes around the lake and ponds, with views of the heronry and ruined round-towered church. There are more great walks at nearby Mannington. Norfolk-based bakery Bread Source has cafes in Wolterton Hall’s library and at Mannington too, serving cakes, drinks and huge flaky croissants.
Sea State runs to 7 December, wolterton.co.uk

Westminster, London

Author and journalist Juliet Rix’s new book, London Statues of Women, features interviews with artists and models. It covers the more obvious monuments, such as Queen Victoria at Kensington Palace and Millicent Fawcett in Parliament Square. But you can also find groundbreaking director Joan Littlewood outside the Theatre Royal in Stratford and Amy Winehouse in Camden Market. The book includes three statue safaris around Westminster, Bloomsbury and the City. The Westminster route starts with a dancing Anna Pavlova in gilded bronze on top of the Victoria Palace theatre and ends at Waterloo near Basil Watson’s National Windrush Monument. Look up on Horseferry Road to see Mary and Etienne Millner’s bronze figure of visionary mathematician Ada Lovelace, backed by gold computer punch cards. Or head to the riverside garden by St Thomas’ hospital to find nurse Mary Seacole.
London Statues of Women is published by Safe Haven Books

Wrexham, Clwyd

A new public art trail is part of Wrexham’s bid to be 2029 UK city of culture. Coordinated by local artist Liam Stokes-Massey, the trail includes 14 works so far and the city is planning a second phase this autumn. The Boss is Stokes-Massey’s tribute to Wrexham FC manager Phil Parkinson, and there are several football-themed works. Others celebrate the city’s industrial heritage, such as Josh Colwell’s monochrome miner with caged canary. The Art Bunny (AKA Rachel West) evokes Wrexham’s markets, where her mum and grandad worked. There’s a map to plot your route round the murals. Tŷ Pawb gallery, market and food court has homemade curry, pies from the Pie’d Pie’per and more.
Find out more at wcct.wales

Stay with a herding family in Mongolia’s Gobi Desert

Eternal Landscapes offers individual and small-group trips to Mongolia, with a focus on supporting local communities. On the five-day Erdenedalai Explorer trip, guests stay with a herding family in the vast steppes of the “Middle Gobi”, an area often bypassed by travellers heading to the better-known sights of the desert’s southern region.

The trip offers a glimpse into local life in a wild landscape. A tour of the capital Ulaanbaatar is also included, during which you can visit projects working to improve life in the community. Eternal Landscapes (a member of The Conscious Travel Foundation) also visits other towns overlooked by mainstream tourism and provides employment for local women by using only female trip assistants.
From $1,045pp (£773) in a group of six ($1,800 for a solo traveller or $1,265pp in a group of two), including meals and transfers outside the capital, eternal-landscapes.co.uk

Book into a hotel run by women in Sri Lanka

Opened in January, Amba Yaalu, on a mango plantation on the banks of the Kandalama Reservoir, is Sri Lanka’s first hotel fully managed and staffed by women. In a country where less than 10% of the country’s workforce is female, the aim is to promote equality and provide employment for women – many of whom leave the island in search of opportunities in the Gulf states.

Part of the eco-friendly hotel chain the Thema Collection, the idea for Amba Yaalu came from its founder, Chandra Wickramasinghe, who was inspired by his mother raising eight children while working as a nurse. A selection of immersive experiences are on offer, from cooking classes to village visits, allowing guests to delve into local life and culture.
Rooms from $120 (£89) B&B, themacollection.com

Take the road less travelled in Morocco

Intrepid Travel’s 11-day South Morocco Discovery adventure heads to the Atlas Mountains and deep into the Sahara, and includes plenty of community-led experiences. Guests stay in a family-run mountain gite, and head to Tafraoute to visit an Amazigh home and learn about traditional life and how it’s changing.

There’s the chance to visit a women’s cooperative outside Essaouira, which specialises in argan oil production. Camping under the stars, a camel safari at sunset and discovering ancient sites with a local guide are also part of the package.
From £662, including accommodation, breakfast, two lunches and dinners and activities, intrepidtravel.com

Serengeti safari with a clean cooking initiative in Tanzania

Small-group adventure specialist G Adventures puts community tourism at the heart of many of its itineraries, with more than 130 projects built into its trips, working with nonprofit partner Planeterra. Local nurseries also grow a tree for every day a traveller is on a trip, providing revenue for communities too.

Among its initiatives in Tanzania is the Masai Clean Cookstoves project that helps people to replace their traditional stoves, which cause deadly household air pollution, with modern models. An all-female team of engineers has so far installed 4,000 stoves across 60 Masai villages in the Serengeti.
The 12-day Serengeti Safari and Zanzibar trip includes a visit to the Clean Cookstove project, from £2,649pp, including hotels, camping, breakfast and some meals, gadventures.com

Preserving traditional customs in Georgia

Adventure specialist Wild Frontiers offers a range of tailored community-led trips, including Adventures with Purpose: Georgia, a 13-day itinerary with a focus on social enterprise projects that are preserving traditions and empowering locals, combined with classic sights such as Tbilisi old town and the Gergeti Trinity church.

Highlights include staying in the Tusheti region, a protected landscape managed by the Tushetian people, contributing to the preservation of the area and village life. In the Kakheti wine region, guests visit the Nukriani Workshops, a scheme that supports local communities and encourages the preservation of traditional crafts.
From £3,090, including accommodation, some meals and transport, wildfrontierstravel.com

Village life in Peru

The Rukha Ayllu project helps families in the traditional weaving village of Huilloc, in the Peruvian Andes, to benefit from responsible tourism. Despite being on a popular trekking route, the village was marginalised, with poor living conditions, until tour operator Valencia Travel Cusco launched the initiative to improve infrastructure and develop community-based experiences.

Now, the 25 families there welcome travellers into their homes and share their cultural heritage, food and crafts, with tourism bringing a welcome new revenue stream. Valencia Travel Cusco is a finalist in this year’s ICRT Global responsible tourism awards, the winners of which will be announced in November.
The 14-day Colours of Peru trip costs from $2,607 (£1,929), including a visit to the project, accommodation, breakfast and some other meals, valenciatravelcusco.com

Safaris and storytelling in rural India

One of the newest trips from operator Village Ways takes visitors to the central Indian states of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh to stay with forest-dwelling communities and learn about traditional life and crafts, and ancient beliefs. From staying in a community-owned guesthouse to discovering the Baiga and Gond people’s connection to the land, rivers and forests – and their medicinal use of local plants – the nine-night itinerary delves into village life.

Hikes through forests, fireside dances and storytelling, and a safari in Kanha national park are among many highlights. Village Ways is a pioneer in sustainable tourism, providing rural communities with additional income streams and job opportunities and helping to reduce urban migration.
Forests and Fables: A Discovery of Ancient India, from £889pp, including transfers, accommodation and meals, villageways.com

Volunteering with children in Ghana

For travellers aged between 18 and 30, Gap360 offers a choice of trips of two to 12 weeks that support local communities. One option is the Ghana Teaching and Childcare Project, where volunteers work alongside locals in a school or childcare centre. This involves spending between four and six hours a days supporting children.

Staff and volunteers live together, and there’s plenty of free time to get immersed in Ghanaian culture and explore the country’s national parks and beaches. Volunteers can get involved in a youth development programme too. Alternatively, those with the skills can opt to work as a sports coach in anything from athletics to swimming or tennis.
From £599 for two weeks, including accommodation and meals, gap360.com

Hiking through farms and paddy fields in Bali

Astungkara Way is an 85-mile (137km) hiking route across Bali, designed to boost community tourism and regenerative farming. Walkers can choose sections or take on the entire 10-day route, either self-guided or with a group, meandering through paddies and forests, staying with local farming families, joining various daily activities, and tucking into farm-to-table dinners.

The project brings income to the villages and profits support regenerative rice farming along the trail. Besides benefiting from employment, many of the young Indonesians involved have become national spokespeople for ecotourism and sustainable agriculture.
The four-day Tree to Waterfall hike covers 29 miles and costs 6,100,000 rupiah (around £276) all inclusive, astungkaraway.com

Dinner in a South African township

Township and Village (a finalist in the 2025 ICRT Global responsible tourism awards) welcomes visitors into communities in the town of Stellenbosch and its surrounding vineyards to experience day-to-day life in the Western Cape province.

Launched in 2023, the social enterprise offers a host of activities, from dining on traditional Xhosa cuisine at a family home in the Kayamandi township, to djembe drumming sessions and guided walks to learn more about the area’s cultures and turbulent history. Community-based guides ensure authentic encounters, and visitors contribute directly to the local economy.
A three-course home dining experience is 550 rand (around £23), townshipandvillage.co.za

Winning tip: ebike tour of Sardinia’s west coast

We explored Sardinia’s wild west coast by ebike with Bosa Bike Experience, who had us whizzing up into vertiginous mountain villages with views of the sparkling azure sea, then back down in time for mirto spritz at a sunset bar right on the seafront. Then back into Bosa’s maze of colourful cobbled streets for delicious Sardinian specialities like seafood fregola, smoked ricotta and wine from local vines grown on volcanic soil. The nearby beaches were perfect – some family-friendly, others wild and deserted.
Emma

A spectacular Italian hotel beneath Sorrento’s cliffs

One of my favourite autumn escapes is the Hotel Admiral (doubles from about £140 B&B) snuggled into the cliff face of Sorrento. I would spend my mornings here dozing on warm black sand and swimming in the sea, pleasantly warm after having had summer to heat up. At about two o’clock, the sun retreats behind the cliffs, leaving afternoons for wandering a network of shady passages and rickety stairways that lead to charming restaurants and shops. Come evening, lambent orange lamplight cloaks the village in sleepy romance while wine taverns murmur Italian music. And, ever-present across the bay is looming, magnificent Vesuvius.
Catrina Conway

Cycling in the golden light of Tuscany

Lucca is a perfect late summer escape, bathed in golden Tuscan light and alive with cultural charm. Its tree-lined Renaissance walls invite leisurely bike rides, while the car-free old town offers tranquil strolls through winding alleys and piazzas. In September, the city glows during the Luminara di Santa Croce, a candlelit procession that transforms Lucca into a living artwork. Markets brim with seasonal produce, and nearby vineyards begin their harvest. Whether you’re savouring buccellato in a shaded cafe or climbing Torre Guinigi for rooftop views to the Apennines, Lucca blends serenity, history and sensory delight. It’s ideal for those seeking warmth without the crowds.
Catherine Taylor

The party boats have left Formentera – but not the sunshine

Ibiza’s quieter sister, Formentera, is bliss once the August party boats depart. By early September the heat has mellowed, but the sea still feels like silk. Hire a bike at La Savina, pedal along pine-scented lanes to the dazzling sands of Platja de ses Illetes, then linger over sunset paella at a chiringuito (beach bar) as flamingos swoop across the nearby salt flats. With most day-trippers gone, even the island’s lone lighthouse at La Mola feels yours alone, and off-season ferry deals from Ibiza make this pocket-sized paradise surprisingly gentle on the wallet.
Azeem

A French B&B that has the Lot

For a gentle late-summer escape, head to Le Relais du Chien Bleu (doubles from €80 a night), a hidden B&B on the Lot-Aveyron border. Set in a 19th-century townhouse, it serves superb vegan dishes (yes, in France!) made from local market produce. Stroll down to the Lot River, nibble figs straight from the trees, and wander the medieval streets of Capdenac-Le-Haut, while the nearby railway town of Capdenac adds historic charm. With fewer crowds and warm, attentive hosts, this is the perfect spot to savour the relaxed rhythms of rural southern France as summer eases into autumn.
Liam

Ancient island trails scented with thyme, Greece

For a blissful late-season escape, head to the Cyclades island of Sifnos a few hours on a ferry from Piraeus, Athens’ main port. The summer crowds have faded, but the sun still warms the quiet beaches and whitewashed villages. Enjoy fresh seafood at harbour tavernas, hike ancient trails scented with wild thyme, and join locals at gentle evening festivals. With lower prices and a slower pace, Sifnos reveals its authentic charm – perfect for unwinding before autumn truly arrives.
Sandra

Wander Roman ruins in Portugal’s Alentejo

The Alentejo basks in golden light well into late September and October. The region stretches from cork oak forests to wild Atlantic beaches, with daytime temperatures still hovering above 20C. In the whitewashed town of Évora, Roman ruins and quiet plazas invite slow wandering. Farther west, the coastline near Vila Nova de Milfontes offers warm surf and near-empty sands. Alentejo is languid and sun-drenched, a secret escape where summer lingers and time seems to pause.
Matthew Healy

Take the Tarragona train in Spain

Tarragona is really easy to reach by Eurostar, TGV, then local train from Barcelona. Self-catering accommodation in the old city centre is within apartment buildings that may well incorporate the ancient city walls or the foundations of the Roman circus and mean you can experience living like a local with narrow communal staircases and markets on your doorstep. Outdoor tables at restaurants are delightful well into autumn and the waves at the beach are still warm. Entrance to the amphitheatre is only €5 (beat that Rome!) where you can see surviving painted wall plaster.
Amy

Agritourism amid Ottoman splendour in Albania

The Unesco-listed town of Berat, nicknamed the “town of a thousand windows”, not only offers amazing places to see such as castles, Ottoman-era houses, museums and so on, but also it’s a perfect place for agritourism. If you want to experience harvesting fruits such as grapes and figs (Alpeta is one of the many vineyards and farms offering agritourism), then September is an ideal time to visit.
Gentian Agalliu

Stay on a rewilded nature reserve, south-west France

The sleepy woods of south-west France are wonderful for a late summer break. Stay near Limoges at Le Moulin de Pensol (gîtes from €60 a night), run as a nature reserve with plenty of rewilded land. Mushrooms take over from butterflies as the main September attraction, with the advantage that they stay still for photos. I walked miles along golden, leaf-lined trails in the Périgord-Limousin natural regional park. The annual chestnut festival at Dournazac completed the autumn package.
Rachel

Bob Anderson — physician, pilot, executive — is nothing if not a perfectionist.

He’s owned his fair share of recreational vehicles and disliked each of them uniquely. There was the Earth Roamer (anemic axles, in his opinion), the $350,000 Newmar land yacht (complex emissions technology) and a 25-foot Airstream trailer (lots of propane). Yet Anderson, 81, keeps buying camping rigs. And he’s hoping the next one will be his last.

This fall, he’ll take delivery of a Lightship AE.1 Cosmos, an RV as similar to an Airstream as a Tesla Roadster is to a Pontiac Firebird.

What separates the Lightship from the rest of Anderson’s letdowns is its propulsion system and design: The rig has two electric motors, so it can drive itself while hitched to the vehicle towing it, and the entire top half tucks down for better aerodynamics while underway. With these two hacks, the vehicle towing the Lightship will feel virtually no weight most of the time. On the interstate, Anderson’s hybrid pickup truck will theoretically get its standard 27 miles per gallon, rather than the 12.5 miles it manages with the Airstream behind it.

“It’s going to change everything in the RV world,” Anderson says.

This year may well be an inflection point for the RV industry, when serious alternatives are emerging to the gas-guzzling rigs chugging between national parks.

In addition to the Lightship, the Pebble Flow — another towable camper with an electric drivetrain — will hit the road. Meanwhile, a host of electric vans will finally be stamped out in high volumes, most notably Volkswagen’s ID. Buzz , the latest iteration of the brand’s storied bus. Even incumbent Thor Inc., which is to RVs what Apple is to smartphones, is putting the final touches on its first hybrid rig.

“It’s certainly a huge milestone,” says McKay Featherstone, head of global innovation at Thor Inc. “People can finally go and buy these things and experience this technology.”

Last year, Americans bought 637,000 RVs, many of which burned a gallon of gas every six to 15 miles traveled. These rigs will stay on the road for about 200,000 miles, belching copious amounts of carbon dioxide.

Electric RVs promise to make the summer road trip vastly cleaner, more convenient and quiet.

Among other things, electric models will help the RV industry shake off what the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association refers to as a “Covid hangover.” The group is forecasting a slight increase in total US sales this year, in part because of the growing number of electric options.

“The vibes, if you will, are good,” says spokeswoman Monika Geraci. “And there does seem to be an appetite there.”

In a Venn diagram of folks who love camping and folks who are climate-concerned, there’s quite a bit of overlap. That may partially explain why, of the roughly 58 million American households that go camping every year, only 12 million of them own an RV.

Yet it’s not like RV drivers don’t care about the climate. “Obviously, these people love the outdoors,” explains Featherstone at Thor, “and that does translate into people who want a lighter footprint.”

In fact, some of the same people who long avoided camping rigs and their sizable clouds of emissions are now at the helm of RV startups. These folks could never find a camper green enough for their liking, so they set out to make one.

Lightship was launched by two Tesla alumni after a disappointing RV journey. Co-founder Toby Kraus says the company is getting plenty of interest from RV newbies who strive to keep a low carbon footprint, but the company has been surprised at the number of orders from everyday drivers and who don’t care about the climate benefits.

Anderson is one of the latter: He pays little mind to his personal carbon footprint. What thrills him is the idea of spending less money on gas and having an RV that doesn’t have to churn a combustion engine to run the air conditioning and refrigerator.

In that regard, Lightspeed is borrowing a page from the Tesla playbook.

“The reason Tesla was successful is not because it was sustainable,” Kraus explains. “It’s because the product was awesome. It was clean tech by Trojan Horse.”

With the glow of ambient light tucked behind ceiling fabric, the interior of the Lightship Ae.1 feels like the first-class cabin of a commercial jet. An induction cooktop is built into the counter, a heat pump quietly cycles air and everything on the rig is controlled by an app. Lightship plans to eventually sell smaller, more affordable models, but its launch vehicle costs a heady $250,000.

The Pebble Flow parks a little further down market with its founders edition priced at $175,000. Co-founder Bingrui Yang spent much of his career working at Apple on the iPhone and, aesthetically, the rig travels the same lane. With a bed that folds up against the wall and Starlink internet service, the interior is geared for Zoom calls as much as napping in nature, reflecting the rise of remote work.

“This is the right time for this product,” Yang says.

The market is also shifting in ways that may further favor electric models. Since 2021, the average age of US RV customers has dropped from 53 to 49, while the share of the market making more than $100,000 a year climbed from 29% to 33%.

“It’s not your grandma and grandpa anymore,” Geraci says. “It’s a different consumer, and they’re looking for more technology.”

While expensive, the new electric towables change the standard RV economics; because they can propel themselves much of the time, they can be towed with less horsepower and pair nicely with electric vehicles, machines for which towing has been Kryptonite due to range issues.

There are also alternatives on the horizon to the hulking, three-bedroom motor coach. These vehicles make up one out of every 10 RVs sold, yet they get some of the worst gas mileage of any non-commercial vehicle, hoovering up a gallon of gas every six or seven miles.

Thor is putting the finishing touches on a hybrid vehicle — dubbed simply “Test Vehicle” — that doesn’t look markedly different from its gas-burning products. But refinements in design make it about 20% more aerodynamic. The 210 kilowatt-hours of battery power under the hood along with a gas generator for charging give it somewhere around 500 miles of range.

On long trips, it will burn roughly half as much fuel as a similar-sized internal combustion rig and offer even better range on short jaunts. Thor will start taking orders in the fall and producing the vehicles by year-end.

Still, there’s a huge chunk of the camper market for whom even a towable is too much. Last year, Americans bought 8,300 camper vans as well as an untold number converted minivans and commercial vans to handle s’mores and sleeping duty.

These folks also have a bevy of new choices. In the first half of the year, Americans bought 2,500 ID.Buzzes. Many of those rigs will be pressed into minimalist camping service, and aftermarket shops are helping kit them out.

That includes Peace Vans in Seattle, which counts both Macklemore and Pearl Jam drummer Matt Cameron as clients. For the Buzz, the company built three different camping configurations. Owner Harley Stitner expects to complete about 1,000 retrofits in the next few years.

Sam Shapiro launched Grounded RVs after six months on the road in 2020 en route to a job at SpaceX. “Before that, I don’t think I’d ever even been in an RV,” he says. “There’s this irony of having this experience to embrace nature, yet you’re sitting there at a campground running a combustion engine, creating exhaust, making noise.”

At its factory in Detroit, Grounded is essentially taking the chassis of an electric General Motors BrightDrop van, topping it with the shell of a Class B motorhome and adding its own solar array and battery management software. The rigs can travel about 300 miles on a charge. As with other electric campers, buyers will pay a premium: $195,000, nearly double what a gas-burning rig of the same size runs.

Last year, Grounded shipped 15 of its machines; this year, it’s aiming for 50. Roughly half of Grounded customers are RV rookies.

“They’ve been waiting for something like this to come along,” Shapiro says. “So many of our customers have said they never want to own a gas-powered vehicle again.”

Stock writes for Bloomberg.

A distinct farmyard smell lingers near the muddy Sheep Paintings. People walk slowly between two dense hedges of windfallen oak branches, or stand silently in a fragile cage of bulrush stems with light seeping through the mossy skylight overhead. I’m visiting the largest ever indoor exhibition of work by Andy Goldsworthy, one of Britain’s most influential nature artists. His recent installations have a visceral sense of rural landscape: hare’s blood on paper, sheep shit on canvas, rusty barbed wire, stained wool, cracked clay.

The show is a sensory celebration of earth – its textures and temperatures, colours, character. The seasons cycle through an ongoing multidecade series of photos featuring the same fallen elm. There are leaf patterns and delicate woven branches, crusts of snow, lines of summer foxglove flowers or autumn rosehips. Andy Goldsworthy: Fifty Years is a National Galleries of Scotland (NGS) exhibition in the neoclassical Royal Scottish Academy building.

After the exhibition, as a sort of cultural pilgrimage, I’m walking six miles across Edinburgh in search of works by the Dumfriesshire-based Goldsworthy and other artists who engage with the landscape. I start at the Royal Botanic Garden (free and open daily, rbge.org.uk), a short bus ride north of the National Gallery. Just inside the east gate, there’s a perforated sculpture by Barbara Hepworth with sunlight pouring through it.

“Art has made me look at the world … and engage with what’s around me,” Goldsworthy writes in the notes for Fifty Years. Walking up through shady beeches, blazing wildflowers and scented, bee-buzzing lavender, there’s a bronze girl in a waterlily pond, and a sundial by the Scottish artist and writer Ian Hamilton Finlay near the terrace cafe. Finlay’s best-known artwork is the garden he created with his wife, Sue, in the wild Pentland Hills (£15 over-16s, £10 for 10-15s, under-10s free, open Thursday to Sunday until 28 September, littlesparta.org.uk). He also built a stone temple in the rolling, wooded acres of Jupiter Artland, a few miles from Edinburgh, where Goldsworthy has put rocks in trees and trees in a stone-walled barn (£11.80 adults, £7.50 children). Celebrating both artists, Jupiter’s exhibition Work Begat Work runs until 28 September.

In the Royal Botanic Garden, Goldsworthy’s Slate Cone stands next to Inverleith House, where the gallery is showing feminist photomontages by Linder (free, until 19 October), who opened this year’s Edinburgh art festival (until 24 August). Enlarged images from her work (smiling mouths, bees, lilies) are dotted among ponds and flowerbeds.

Goldsworthy’s Slate, Hole, Wall, a round enclosure of stacked grey stones, stands in the gardens’ south-east corner, under a weeping silver lime tree sweet with honey-fragrant blossom. The Water of Leith Walkway runs close to the John Hope Gateway on Arboretum Place, and I follow it south-westwards. In Stockbridge, the Sunday market, shaded by whitebeam trees, offers loaves of artisanal bread, Perthshire strawberries and cakes made from insects. Almost hidden in branches under a bridge, a lifesize cast-iron figure stands in the river nearby, one of Antony Gormley’s 6 Times statues.

Another of the figures is buried chest-deep by the zebra crossing between National Galleries Scotland: Modern One and Two. Wandering past domed St Bernard’s Well, with its statue of the goddess of health, and picturesque Dean Village, crammed with fellow camera-wielding visitors, I detour to the Modern galleries up the riverside steps. Linking both museums is Charles Jencks’ huge Landform, with its grassy hills and curving pond. There are days’ worth of galleries, artists’ rooms and sculpture gardens to explore here, but the afternoon is passing and I have more miles and museums to cover.

Heading back along the leafy Water of Leith, I climb another steep flight of steps towards Haymarket. On the south lawn of St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral, a labyrinth winds through aromatic yarrow and knapweed. Around this flowering meadow, as part of an installation called On Sacred Ground, there are rough benches elegiacally listing threatened Scottish species: corncrake, hawfinch, wryneck, ring ouzel, capercaillie. I walk on through Princes Street Gardens, back past the Royal Academy building, and drop into the National Gallery (free) next door to see Van Gogh’s impasto Olive Trees and William McTaggart’s stormy seascapes.

Up more steps, pausing to look back at distant views of the firth, and then down again across photogenic Victoria Street. Finally, I stroll through Greyfriars Kirkyard to reach the National Museum of Scotland (free, nms.ac.uk). In 1998, Goldsworthy installed four sunset-coloured blocks of split sandstone on the museum roof, with its panoramic city views. But the blue skies have turned stormy. “Our roof terrace is closed today – the weather is too dreich!” says a red sign by the lift.

Instead, I head to the basement, where more late-1990s works by Goldsworthy complement a brilliant gallery about Scotland’s early inhabitants. There’s Hearth, a burned circle on a platform of salvaged wood from the museum’s construction site. Stacked Whalebones is a pale ball of interlocking bones, the whole skeleton of a five-metre pilot whale found beached in Northumberland. Around golden bronze age torcs and silver Viking arm-rings, Roman carvings and flint arrowheads, the artist also designed Enclosure, two curving walls of reworked Edinburgh slates. Another backdrop is of stained Dumfriesshire clay like the Red Wall in the Fifty Years exhibition.

Outside, the Edinburgh fringe is in full swing (until 25 August). Among the crowds are buskers, jugglers, unicyclists. With just one night to sample its anarchic offerings, I plunge into dodgy cabarets and sweaty comedies in tiny underventilated venues. At 9pm, I’m back at the National Museum for an accomplished Lloyd-Webber-esque musical about Van Gogh. Towards midnight, I head to Summerhall for a strange, polyphonic prequel to Hamlet by the Polish choral-theatre group Song of the Goat.

The next day, as I walk to Edinburgh’s Waverley station, there’s a prismatic haze caught between the misty drizzle and breezy summer sun. It reminds me of Goldsworthy’s 1980s photo series with titles like Rainbow Splash Hit Water With Heavy Stick Bright, Sunny, Windy. As the train speeds south, through Northumberland and North Yorkshire, I see with new eyes the wave-pounded cliffs and bale-studded headlands, the dry-stone walls and sheep-scattered patchwork dales.

The trip was provided by Visit Scotland, NGS and LNER, York to Edinburgh from £23 each way, London to Edinburgh from £52 Andy Goldsworthy 50 Years runs until 2 November, £19 adults, £5 children, nationalgalleries.org).

Slovenia’s raft of adventure activities

Slovenia! We started in Lake Bled. Teens loved the Dolinka ziplines, the summer toboggan run, hiking in Vintgar gorge and swimming in Lake Bled. You can hire paddleboards and boats. If you have the money, there is rafting and canyoning too. After seeing the incredible Postojna cave, we went up the Vogel cable by Lake Bohinj. Half-board at the Bohinj Eco hotel kept the teens amply fed and it also has an aquapark, bowling and plenty of games to boot. We finished the trip off with shopping in Ljubljana and the best ice-cream ever at Romantika. Three happy teenagers.
Sue

All aboard in the Netherlands

Our favourite family holiday was to the Netherlands: taking turns playing captain guiding electric hire boats on canals; tilting our ice-cream cones at windmills at Zaanse Schans; cycling to the broad, clean beaches for mocktails in cabanas; Amsterdam for the colourful Pride parade counterpointed by a quiet, calming visit to De Poezenboot (which teen could resist a cat sanctuary on a canal boat?). And staying in Haarlem in an apartment with speedy wifi kept the teens happy while we indulged in morning strolls through medieval cobbled streets to Grote Markt for coffee and people-watching.
Annette

An Italian castle at hostel prices

When I saw the picture of Ostello il Castello di Santa Severa in the Guardian in 2019, I thought it was too good to be true, but it’s genuine. We have been twice with our teens, and sent friends too! A mile-long beach where teenagers can roam and paddleboard, an easy train journey to explore Rome, lunchtime pizza slices with locals cheering on the footie at L’Angolo delle Crepes. Plus the opportunity to sleep in a castle at hostel prices. Fluffy white towels aplenty, but also a gleaming kitchen if you want to cook. Don’t miss the nearby necropolis for an Indiana Jones-style adventure. Fireworks over the castle and a hilarious Italian Beatles cover band were the ciliegina sulla torta!
Margaret

Dracula and bear-spotting in Romania

The best European trip with my teen (so far) has to be Romania. We stayed in Brașov, booked an apartment with a pool and had the best time. There is so much to do and lots of easy public transport. We ate outdoors at little cafes on the street, took a cable car up the mountain, went on a trip to see bears in the forest (up close and personal!), had a tree-top adventure at Adventure Park and visited Dracula’s castle. The town itself is historic and beautiful, and the people are so welcoming. It’s not your typical British tourist destination but it makes for a fabulous adventure.
Kate

When in Rome … take a Vespa tour!

Rome in October half-term. Coliseum and Forum tours gave the right balance of interesting history, fun facts and a bit of gore that most teenagers would be entranced by! Walked a lot without seeming to walk a lot. A two-hour Vespa tour was the highlight. You hang on to the drivers and they negotiate the traffic, show you a different Rome with local knowledge and attitude. To complete the adventure: guaranteed great food, gelato and, for weary parents of an evening, vino cheapo!
Ruth

Austria’s Alpine summer wonderland

Saalbach-Hinterglemm in Austria in the summer meant hiking, ebiking and waterparks. Take advantage of the Joker card for free or reduced-price access to lots of activities. Hire a car to make the most of local resorts with lakeside beach clubs, alpine zoos, glacier visits and summer toboggan runs. Plenty to keep teens entertained.
Hilary

An epic train journey across Europe

Last summer I went with my two children on a trip north through Scandinavia, then back via the Baltic countries. This turned into an epic 5,000-mile train journey, which we each took part in planning. The 10-year-old’s focus was on cycling, swimming, play parks and cat cafes. The 14-year-old took us to the KGB headquarters in Riga, a tour around Berlin, and a visit to the Deyrolle taxidermy shop in Paris. By handing over some planning and responsibility to the kids, I could relax; they were engaged in activities away from their devices and their geography knowledge improved!
Sarah Patel

Cosmopolitan and exotic Antwerp

Antwerp by Eurostar was perfect. Coffee and buns at Pakt every morning, cool galleries like MoMu and Fomu every day, kilo vintage shopping, art nouveau streets, incredible Korean, Vietnamese and Nepalese restaurants, and bikes! Perfect October break.
Georgia

Postcard from the edge of Belleville, Paris

A brief holiday for us this year with our 15-year-old son but it was plenty – five nights in a gorgeous apartment on the edge of Belleville, Paris, not far from Buttes-Chaumont. He’s the age where we can enjoy both Disneyland and then take in the Hockney retrospective at the stunning Fondation Louis Vuitton. Back at base we watched city life unfold from our French windows and then sampled Lebanese, Laos and French meals in the bustling streets around. Nearer to town, the family-run Eats Thyme is a standout.
GingerGigolo

Winning tip: Oompah and cable cars in Bavaria

A two-centre holiday to Munich and Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Bavaria, Germany, is a must with teenagers as there is so much to see and do. In Munich they loved the atmosphere in the beer halls – eating pretzels and listening to the oompah band and watching the Rathaus-Glockenspiel in the square. A visit to the Olympiapark is also recommended. In Garmisch-Partenkirchen there is a toboggan run, which is great fun, and nearby is the beautiful Zugspitze mountain and cable car, with boating on Eibsee lake. Bavaria has plenty to keep teenagers entertained and active, for a very enjoyable holiday.
Richard Watkins

Some of the most sought-after road trips that Brits are keen to embark on this summer have been revealed for the ultimate staycation – from the stunning Scottish Highlands to the world-famous Lake District

The summer is in full swing, with many families looking for their next holiday getaway – but that idyllic location could be closer to home than you think.

Across the nation, there’s a collection of stunning destinations just waiting to be explored, and what’s more, they’re super easy to get to. Forget getting to the airport hours before your flight, ditch the 23kg packing limit, and avoid the stress, as staycations are dominating the summer holidays this year.

A new study from Škoda found that a whopping 83% of Brits are keen to explore more of the UK this summer, with many opting for driving holidays over trips abroad. The research also found that a number of these holidaymakers are prepared to drive more than 1,000 miles to reach their desired destination in the UK.

The benefits? Travellers are able to stop and look at the sights whenever they desire, choose what time to leave, and have no luggage limits. In addition, it’s a more adorable way to travel rather than catching a flight ot taking the train, especially if you have a big family, and you don’t need a passport!

With this in mind, Škoda has revealed the most desired summer road trip locations for this summer. From meandering up the Snowdonia National Park to taking a fresh water dip in the Lake District – there’s a staycation to suit everyone, no matter how adventurous you are.

One of the top locations to visit is the Scottish Highlands, home to some seriously spectacular landscapes. The breathtaking scenes are home to the mythical Loch Ness, not to mention the restaurant scene for foodies and towering mountains for intrepid explorers.

One traveller raved: “We spent our last few Junes travelling around Scotland with long days and plenty of wildlife… Considering your route, the Cairngorms are fab for red squirrel, red deer, eagles, grouse etc. We saw all of these plus some in the glens of the eastern Cairngorms earlier this year. If you’re headed up to Lossiemouth, seals, dolphins, gannets (esp if your route brings you near Troup Head). We saw a few dolphins at Burghead this June and folk around said a pod of orca were hanging about as well. Moray Firth usually have dolphins as well. Essentially, you can’t go wrong!” Another who drove the North Coast 500 hailed it “an amazing bucket list trip”.

The Lake District is no well-kept secret, known for its fresh water lakes, historic towns, and mountains that it’s become another favoured spot for summer staycations. It’s an England national treasure, and in fact, it’s now considered a world treasure, having been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One tourist who drove the famous Hardknott pass between Eskdale and Duddon Valley raved: “Views to die for,” while another added: “Amazing drive, I have driven some great roads here and in the USA. This drive is up there with the best of them.”

A trip to the Yorkshire Dales is certainly one to add to the list. Whether you’re looking for a scenic hike, a steam train journey, or just plenty of breathtaking historic sites, museums, farms, and breweries, it has something for everyone.

Here’s the top 10 staycations recommended to visit this summer for your next road trip:

• 1. Scottish Highlands
• 2. Lake District
• 3. Yorkshire Dales
• 4. Isle of Skye, Scotland
• 5. St. Ives, Cornwall
• 6. Cotswolds Villages
• 7. Snowdonia National Park, Wales
• 8. Peak District, Derbyshire
• 9. Loch Ness, Scotland
• 10.Lake Windemere, Cumbria

Motorists are expected to make 13.9 million trips over the coming days as we start the school summer holidays and here is a list of the roads which are likely to have most congestion

Brits are being warned of the roads to avoid as the UK is expected to see the biggest number of car trips over the coming days since records began.

Drivers are planning 13.9 million midweek journeys from today until Thursday according to new data from INRIX. School holidays are beginning this week with many pupils breaking up for the summer tomorrow and it means many families will be hitting the roads for tourist hotspots. The new data estimates that 2.3 million trips will be made on UK roads today, while a further 2 million are expected on the next three days. And unusually this year many people are trying to get away before waiting until the weekend.

“This year, a larger number of drivers than ever expect to head off on holiday at some point this week, rather than wait until the weekend to get away – with an additional 5.6m journeys likely at some point between Monday and Thursday,” states the RAC, which has released the INRIX data.

And the midweek travel chaos is only the beginning as there is also likely to be plenty more mayhem on the roads come the weekend and further into the holiday period.

According to INRIX the M40 northbound between J12 for Gaydon and the M42 exit at J3A in the West Midlands could see mid-morning delays of up to 40 minutes on Tuesday.

Later on, queues of up to 50 minutes are likely from 4pm on the M1 northbound from J12 to J16 through Northamptonshire and on the M4 westbound from J22 for the Pilning Interchange near Severn Beach across the Prince of Wales Bridge to J26 for Newport.

The queues are set to continue through Wednesday afternoon as people attempt to get away before the weekend. The M1 northbound from J22 near Leicester to J26 for Nottingham, near the Peak District, may face 40-minute delays as early as 3pm.

INRIX is predicting early-evening queues of 50 minutes along the M25 anticlockwise from J4 for Sevenoaks to the Dartford Crossing, as holiday traffic clashes with rush-hour commuters.

Then for the weekend the RAC is recommending that people start as early or as late as possible to avoid the worst of the traffic. This means either before 10am or after 7pm.

RAC mobile servicing and repairs team leader Nick Mullender said: “Normally the weekend bears the brunt of getaway traffic but this year we’re expecting ‘midweek mayhem’ as schools finish for summer.

“We typically see a peak on ‘Frantic Friday’ when holidaymakers share the roads with commuters heading home, but our figures indicate these trips will now be spread across several days with millions more weekday journeys planned. To avoid the worst of the traffic, travel outside peak times and steer well clear of morning and evening rush hours.

“Saturday is expected be the single busiest day for summer traffic with many drivers travelling long distances to get to their holiday destination. If a getaway journey involves hours in the car, it’s essential to be well rested and fresh for the trip. If possible, share the driving with another passenger to ensure concentration levels stay high, while those travelling with children should pack plenty of entertainment to keep them occupied and minimise questions of “are we there yet?”. Water, snacks and phone chargers are essential!

“Before setting off, drivers should do whatever they can to avoid their vehicles letting them down, like checking oil and coolant levels as well as the condition and tread on all tyres. There’s also still time to book an RAC Mobile Mechanic who can carry out a wide range of repairs at home or work, as well conducting a full or interim service.”

Winning tip: meadow birdsong by the beach in Pembrokeshire

For 28 years we have been going to West Hook Farm in Marloes, Pembrokeshire, to camp. The farm has some lovely showers and toilets, and nothing else apart from beautiful fields full of meadow grass. The swifts and swallows dart along the top of the grass to eat bugs at dawn and dusk. All day long you can hear beautiful birdsong from birds such as skylarks. The fields run alongside the beautiful coastal path, which has a hedgerow full of wildflowers and birds. This is the most beautiful place on Earth (when it isn’t raining). The numerous beaches are full of soft white sands. Our children have grown up playing free in the fields on their yearly holiday – no computers, just outdoor fun.
Em

Hiking a Highlands mountain

For a true taste of the Scottish Highlands, head to Ballater and hike the 1,155-metre (3,789 ft) peak of Lochnagar in the Grampians. The trail winds through pine forests and open moorland, the air crisp and alive. Be ready for the weather to change like pages in a book: sunshine, sudden rain, a flurry of snow on the summit, then blue skies again. On the way down, slip into the river, its water sharp as ice. Pack layers, bring snacks and take your time. It’s a walk that stays with you long after you leave the mountain behind.
Eva

Walking the Cotswold Way – inspired by Laurie Lee

After a family reading of Laurie Lee’s As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning, my husband and I decided our two teens were ready to try a walking holiday in the Cotswolds. We set out with backpacks and a tent on the Cotswold Way, starting just outside lively Chipping Campden and ending in Bath. Mobiles were limited to an hour a day in the evening and we did 10 miles a day – covering the walk in 10 days. We felt we were a part of a community of walkers as fellow hikers greeted us in passing, sharing drinks and tips with us along the way. We also learned about the Japanese idea of shinrin-yoku – feeling free in nature under the canopy of trees, sky and stars – from a family from Tokyo. We returned fitter, more together and happier than when we set out.
Ann

Forests and folklore in the Carpathians

Following a brilliant solo back-to-nature trip to the Carpathian mountains in Romania two years ago, I talked my two teenage boys into a family repeat earlier this summer – dangling the carrot of a trip to Count Dracula’s castle. In fact I only needed some minor encouragement from the vampire; the area itself was my ally. The forests, flanked by brooding mountains, were exciting to hike through anyway (with the help of a local guide), with the presence of brown bears, wolves and lynx adding to the thrills as we marched along. We came across medieval towns and villages that are rich in traditional folklore. One highlight was sampling local cheese and singing songs with villagers in the Bârza valley. The boys were rewarded with a ride on a horse-drawn cart to the next village, near Dracula’s alleged abode – Bran Castle. Don’t miss the stiff climb up to Postăvarul peak (1,799 metres) for great views over the area.
Joe

Where Austria’s hills are alive

Salzkammergut is the Austrian lake district. Lush meadows, forests and blue-green lakes make for endless days of swimming, biking and lying in the sun. No wonder that The Sound of Music was filmed here. Wolfgangsee has well-marked bike trails and opportunities to swim, alongside cafes serving delicious kaiserschmarrn (fluffy pancakes) and schnitzel. The nearby Fuschlsee has an incredible water park right by the lake: swimming pools, slides and plenty of quiet water in which to swim. It’s excellent entertainment for the entire family. We stayed in the newly renovated Feichtingerbauer, which offers complimentary access to the Fuschlseebad.
Neha

Paddleboarding in County Derry

By the end of the summer in 2021 we were at the end of our tether due to lockdowns and the lack of socialising opportunities. The kids had never been so quiet. My good friend Bob insisted we join his family at Swanns Bridge in County Derry for a paddleboard trip. Swanns Bridge is only a few minutes’ drive from the Atlantic beaches of Benone, but it makes use of the River Roe, rather than the ocean. After 20 minutes of trying to stay upright, something happened. For the first time in over a year we were distracted by something positive and by the beauty of the Roe. The only sound was water (mostly me falling in) and laughter. We’ve gone back since to be distracted for different reasons. It still works.
Kieran

Trigbagging in the Peak District

Try trigbagging with the kids. Be it a weekend in the Peak District or Monday to Friday in the Lake District, it doesn’t have to cost a lot. You can pitch a tent in a campsite or get cheap accommodation in a youth hostel. My kids love scrambling up the hills, paddling in the streams that flow down them, spotting the ground-nesting birds, and tucking into the snacks that come with hiking. It teaches them so much about nature and personal safety, as well as about how quickly the weather can change in such places.
Rebecca

Searching for buried treasure on Ynys Môn (Anglesey)

Our best back-to-nature day out? A spontaneous treasure hunt through the dunes of Newborough beach on Ynys Môn (Anglesey). There’s no admission fee needed – just a hand-drawn pirate map, a flask of lemonade and plenty of imagination. The kids darted between marram grass and shoreline, hunting for shells and “buried treasure” (a biscuit tin full of sweets we’d hidden earlier). With views of Llanddwyn Island and a picnic under the pines, it was low-stress, big-memory magic. Just bring snacks, suncream and a good sense of adventure!
Robert Serebriakoff

Car-free and carefree on the Isle of Arran

We had a lovely summer holiday staying on a farm on the Isle of Arran. It’s the perfect car-free holiday for families, with a very easy train ride from Glasgow to the harbour [at the mainland ferry port of Ardrossan]. We stayed on the organic farm, picking our own fruit and veg then cooking it on our camping stove on the beach. The accommodation is right on the beach and on our first morning we stepped out and saw an enormous pod of dolphins. Our days were spent walking up and down the beach playing in rock pools. Absolute heaven! The owner of the farm, who used to work in a Michelin-starred restaurant, cooks fresh lobster and seafood most nights. You can watch him and his daughter going out on their kayak to make their daily catch.
Gemma

Rockpooling in East Sussex

One of our favourite trips out in nature is to the beach at Seven Sisters, East Sussex. The walk to get there is lovely – it’s flat and a good size for our boys to ride their bikes along. It’s beautiful, with the cliffs and rivers winding along, and there’s even a little empty building to look inside, which is very exciting for small children. When at the beach, there is so much to do, including wading across the part where the river joins the sea with a pretty decent current; rock pooling in crystal-clear waters; and, on a good day, there’s the sludgy sand to get filthy in! Bonus fun is had by watching walkers wade across the river to get to the cliffs, teetering on the painful rocks, as they don’t want to get their walking shoes wet; or by finding crabs in the rock pools; and seeing little islands made as the tide goes in and out. It’s extra fun if you win the competition to find the most interesting stone or find some treasured sea glass. Chalk is fun too, but common enough not to count as an entry into the competition.
Lauren

Tam Kaur, a 24-year-old YouTuber, is telling women to leave their boyfriends at home and solo travel – something she promised herself she’d do before she got in a relationship

A woman says ditching her boyfriend to go on holiday alone is key to the success of their relationship.

Tam Kaur, a 24-year-old YouTuber, is telling women to leave their boyfriends at home and solo travel. The Londoner has travelled by herself to Paris, Amsterdam, Cyprus, and even New York, and is now urging others to follow in her footsteps.

“Before I met my boyfriend, I made a promise to myself that I would still prioritise me, and solo travel is what that looks like. So many women leave this behind when they get partners because we’re expected to holiday with them, but that’s just not necessary in my eyes,” she said.

Tam first explored solo travelling in late 2023, sharing her trip to Amsterdam online and documenting her first-ever flight alone.

READ MORE: Brit expat in Benidorm warns ‘tourists are getting robbed’ because of one mistake

“I was terrified. I was so used to my boyfriend leading me through the airport, but solo travel was on my bucket list, so I did it anyway. It changed everything for me. It helped me discover my love of solo travel,” she said.

“You learn to be okay being alone with your thoughts. You learn how to book your own table, ask strangers for photos, and talk to people you wouldn’t otherwise meet. It’s a huge confidence builder in the most unexpected ways.”

While the experience of going it alone has been mostly positive, there have been harder moments.

“Confidence isn’t something I was born with. I built it, trip by trip, flight by flight, and it’s still a work in progress. Originally I felt deeply uncomfortable about taking a flight on my own, staying in a hotel alone, travelling all alone in a foreign place where people speak a different language,” Tam said.

“It’s scary, but I’ve managed to do it all multiple times and it wasn’t half as scary as I thought it would be. For any woman who wants to try it, I’d recommend starting small. Take yourself on a solo date in your hometown first, then build up to a staycation, and eventually travel abroad.”

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Today, Tam’s social channels boast more than three million followers, and she has released a book, Buy Yourself The Damn Flowers.

“Whether you’re single, taken, or somewhere in between, every woman deserves to feel like she’s enough on her own and a solo trip is a beautiful reminder of that,” Tam said.

Tam is not the only one to enjoy a solo trip. Last year, the Mirror’s Jackie Annett headed to Turkey for her first lone holiday.

“Every year, three million Brits travel to Turkey with Babadag mountain in Oludeniz being one of the top paragliding destinations in the world. But did you know Turkey is also one of the most popular countries for people holidaying alone or enjoying a ‘Me Moon?’” she wrote.

“Less than 24 hours earlier, I’d arrived at the Mirona Deluxe Hotel not quite sure what to expect from my first solo holiday. Now that my daughter’s almost all grown up, I want to spend more time seeing the world and I don’t see why being single should stop me.”

Click here to read her full report.

My husband and I spent much of the weekend driving from Los Angeles to Petaluma, and back, to attend a wedding. The trip began, as our car trips inevitably do, with my husband asking me to find the best route via Apple Maps and then arguing with every direction the app offered.

Out loud, as if the app’s “voice” could hear him.

As in “What? That makes no sense. Why take the 118 when we can just keep going and pick up the 5 in a few miles?” or “I knew we should have taken my shortcut back there. Look, now we’re just sitting in traffic. I thought these apps were supposed to help you avoid traffic.”

If, during these early explosions, I am sufficiently caffeinated, I calmly suggest that the traffic on alternate routes is probably much worse. If I am not, I simply snap that he was the one who asked to use Maps in the first place and if he doesn’t like it, he should just take whatever route he wants like he always does anyway.

We have been married for a very long time.

Long enough, in fact, for me to remember a time when the voice he would argue with was mine, as I bent over the Thomas Guide or some impossibly large map and we exchanged, in heated tones, our deep and personal feelings for one route or another. (He, for example, thinks the 405 is just another freeway while I know it is a shimmering sliver of Hell designed by Satan to suck the life out of unwary motorists.)

After 30 years of road travel together, I know that any trip of more than 10 miles will be filled with either exasperation over roadwork delays or complaints about how “they really need to fix this road” and that there is no point in arguing that local government simply does not have the organizational wherewithal, never mind the motivation, to “time the lights” in such a way to intentionally make his life more difficult. (But if L.A. city or county is looking for someone to fix their traffic lights, Richard is available.)

As we headed toward the wedding, I found myself hoping that the couple we would be celebrating had spent enough time in the car together. Any long-term personal relationship requires the acknowledgment and acceptance of certain things about your partner. In L.A. especially, that means being able to live with the way they drive, even when … no, especially when, this seems at odds with every other facet of their nature.

My husband is a rational man who believes in the laws of science. Until he enters a car and his notion of time and space become defined by movement — any “shortcut” that allows the car to remain in motion is better than sitting in traffic, even if it makes the trip much longer in minutes and miles.

He is also notably sweet and sympathetic, always willing to think the best of his fellow humans. Except from behind the windshield, where he views the world as teeming with schemers and brutes, acting on all manner of Machiavellian impulses. If Richard designed a driving app, it would be called “This Sonuvabitch.”

As in “this sonuvabitch knows I want to get over and keeps creeping up so I can’t.” Or “this sonuvabitch is mad because I passed him and now he’s riding my tail.”

Traffic in L.A. is quite literally maddening and I too am guilty of loudly questioning the sanity of that guy in the blue Honda who thinks he can make a left on La Cienega at rush hour or the woman who has stopped traffic in an effort to parallel park in a space that anyone with eyes can see is too small for her freaking Bronco. But I never take their choices personally.

Richard takes it all very personally, offering a steady stream of criticism and muttered instructions — ”that’s it, you can do it, just turn the wheel, it’s not difficult” — to any driver not performing up to his standards.

Neither conversation nor music provides much of a distraction — he will talk right over his beloved Aaron Copland, never mind me. Even the suggestion that he put his ability to conjure such vividly precise character defects and psychological motivations to better use in, say, fiction writing, has been to no avail.

He is, I hasten to add, a good and safe driver, aggressive only rhetorically. And so, as one must do in marriage, I have sought the serenity to accept the things I cannot change. As we made our expletive-fueled way up the 5, I silently soothed myself with the knowledge that in a couple of hours, we’d need to take a restroom break and then I would slide into the driver’s seat and stay there until we arrived. Since our rule is that the driver controls the audio, I had queued up “I, Claudius” read by Derek Jacobi on Audible.

I have also been married long enough to know that the one thing my former-theater critic husband won’t disrupt is a masterful performance.

Not so Maps, which, as we neared San José, began chiming in with a quite complicated alternate route, designed, I assumed, to avoid freeway traffic. Richard was not at all pleased by either the interruptions or the route, and it was frankly hilarious to listen to him vent about precisely the sort of shortcut he himself is known for.

Indeed, I found myself feeling a personal bond with the calm and implacable voice guiding our progress even as my spouse spluttered and argued. Not only was she a third-party recipient of road-trip frustration, the voice of Maps seemed to take on the kind of objective helpfulness of a good therapist.

She is simply not interested in the “you always,” “I never” emotional quagmires a gridlocked freeway or rerouting decision can churn up. When I missed a turn, she didn’t care at all when my husband asked if whoever programmed Maps had ever actually driven a car and if they were so smart, could they not see that truck that wouldn’t let us get over?

She just continued to suggest that we “proceed to the route.”

Being the proud participant in a decades-long relationship, which, despite its many compromises and workarounds, remains solid and loving, I, of course, had been wondering what sort of advice I might, if only in my imagination, offer the soon-to-be-newlywed couple.

And here was Maps doing it for me.

Marriage is like a road trip; no matter how much you love the other person in the car, if it lasts long enough, you will drive each other a little nuts. My husband’s explosive commentary sometimes amuses me and sometimes wears me down. But at this point, if he didn’t complain about the timing of the lights or “this sonuvabitch who doesn’t know you can make a right on red,” I would worry that he was having a stroke.

Among the glories of the journey and the intimacy of the conversation, there will always be missed turns, ill-fated routes and arguments over how to cope with the forces that surround you. But if you choose to stay in the car, then the only real option is to keep moving forward.

Or as Maps would say, proceed to the route.

Summer has well and truly arrived, and schools will be breaking up soon for the long holidays. It’s a moment of high anticipation for the kids and possibly high anxiety for the parents about how to keep the kids entertained. We’d like to hear about your best family days out in the great outdoors, whether it be organised fun, such as a surfing course, an activity camp, or more spontaneous and free fun such as rockpooling on the coast or following a Forestry England nature trail.

The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hall of Lonely Planet wins a £200 voucher to stay at a Coolstays property – the company has more than 3,000 worldwide. The best tips will appear in the Guardian Travel section and website.

Keep your tip to about 100 words

If you have a relevant photo, do send it in – but it’s your words we will be judging for the competition.

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The competition closes on Monday 7 July at 10am BST

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Some breakdown policies have limits on the amount they will pay out if a car cannot be fixed at the roadside, meaning drivers could be left out of pocket if it needs to be recovered to a garage

Motorists planning a continental jaunt are being cautioned that they might end up dipping into their own pockets if they don’t review any restrictions on their breakdown assurance.

Upon examining 291 policies, financial guru Defaqto has found that almost a third (31%) of them set a ceiling for individual claims at less than £3,500.

Should the cost of getting a car back on the road or mended surpass this figure, policyholders may need to shell out the excess themselves. Defaqto highlights the importance of checking whether there’s also an aggregate cap for all claims under the policy.

In instances where a vehicle fails before leaving and can’t be fixed promptly, hiring a substitute motor is essential.

Alas, Defaqto’s findings report that merely over a third (34%) of plans actually accommodate for the costs of hiring a car prior to departure, potentially leaving some travellers with hefty bills even before they hit the road.

READ MORE: Major UK travel announcement could see end of £18billion problem

This analysis, which was conducted in early June, included various European breakdown cover options such as separately sold “standalone” policies, those bundled with comprehensive car insurance, “short-term” covers specific to particular journeys, and perks offered with certain bank accounts.

Travellers caught unawares overseas might encounter local law enforcement or authorities calling upon an approved vehicle retrieval service.

Defaqto’s research reveals that a notable 16% of these breakdown covers do not compensate for such recoveries, cornering drivers into unforeseen expenses.

If your motor conks out while you’re on holiday and can’t be fixed within a day, many policies will offer “journey continuation” cover to help with the cost of alternative transport like public transport or hiring a car.

Defaqto’s research found that just over a third (35%) of policies cap these costs between £500 and £999.

Close to two-fifths (38%) of policies put a limit on the number of breakdowns you can claim for during the policy term.

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Motor insurance guru at Defaqto, Mike Powell, commented: “If you are going on holiday in Europe this summer, buying motor breakdown insurance may not be the first thing you think about. But if you are taking your own car, it is essential to understand what the policy covers so you are not hit with a large bill if things go wrong.”

He added, “While price is often a major factor in choosing a policy, it is even more important to look closely at the cover provided and the limits that apply. The cheapest policy may end up costing you more in the long run.”

Mike Powell also offers some savvy advice for those planning to drive around Europe:.

• Double-check your breakdown cover before setting off. Ensure your policy includes European cover and pore over the fine print to grasp what’s covered and what’s not.
• Get clued up on local driving regulations. Each country has its own set of driving laws and requirements. Jot down essential contact numbers, including your insurer and local emergency services, and know the drill for motorway mishaps.
• Factor in additional costs. If your cover limit is insufficient, you may find yourself footing the bill for services like towing, car hire or onward travel.
• Keep your documents at the ready. This might encompass your driving licence, insurance certificate, logbook, passport and any pertinent health cards or visas.
• Ponder having the car serviced prior to the holiday. A pre-holiday check-up could help prevent motor breakdowns from occurring in the first place.

A midsummer pole dance in southern Sweden

I enjoyed midsummer at a rented beachside cottage in the Skåne village of Bjärred, north of Malmö, with Swedish friends. We ventured to the local church to enjoy the dancing round a midsummer pole decorated with vibrant blue and red flowers, with many local residents adorned in intricately decorated flower crowns. After taking a dip in the Öresund strait along the long jetty with its bathhouse, we towelled off to indulge in deliciously sweet strawberries and sip Briska ciders into the late hours of daylight.
Caitlin

A party on Denmark’s northern shores

We spent the afternoon paddling with one foot in the Baltic and the other in the North Sea at the top of Grenen, North Jutland, Denmark. Then, we headed southwards along the beaches and through the sand dunes to Skagen to enjoy the midsummer celebration at Vippyfyret, where many hundreds gathered, having travelled mostly on foot or by bicycle to experience an evening of music with songs and recital. Artists, composers and poets were among the throng round a great bonfire which was a sight to behold.
Mal Jones

Pink light at midnight near Stockholm

For an easy midsummer escape from Stockholm, Vaxholm is unbeatable. A fast ferry gets you to the archipelago’s capital in under an hour. My tip is to spend the afternoon exploring the town, with its classic Falu-red wooden houses and gardens overflowing with flowers. But don’t take the last ferry back. Instead, find a spot by the water and watch as the midsummer sun refuses to set, bathing the islands in golden, pink light for hours. It’s a simple, accessible way to experience the magic of Sweden’s endless daylight without straying far from the city.
Pamela

Food, friendship and fire in Valencia

Last summer, while having a break in Valencia, I found out Spanish people mark 23 June as the beginning of summer by celebrating the festival of San Juan. For a few nights around the actual date of San Juan, bonfires, wine and music on the beaches seemed to go on until dawn. The local family I was staying with invited me to choose some old furniture to burn on a beach bonfire and helped me throw it on before we danced round the fire holding hands and singing songs to pagan gods to burn the evil of the previous year! We barbecued anchovies and sausages we had bought at Valencia’s marvellous Mercado Central at midnight before throwing ourselves into the Med at 2am – a feelgood way to celebrate midsummer, full of food, friendship and fire!
April

Cycle to the sun … or just Edinburgh

I’ve really enjoyed Ride to the Sun – a 100-mile overnight bike ride from Carlisle to Edinburgh held on 21 June. It’s inclusive, joyous, community-filled and fabulous. From the Moffat chippy queue to the midnight rave to the toasting of the sunrise on Cramond beach, it’s the best way to spend the shortest night.
Vicky

Red wine and cola on the beach in Asturias

We stumbled upon the midsummer Noche de San Juan in Cudillero in Asturias. Religious processions gave way to paganistic bonfires where people tossed mementoes of their year to forget. Next up were fireworks and a Brazilian samba troupe. Locals explained that the mayor could justify the expense because it was a prerequisite of getting re-elected. After midnight we headed to the beach for a party fuelled by calimocho (red wine and cola, don’t ask). We retired at 8am for a breakfast of chorizo and fried eggs just as a live DJ started up.
Kieran

A French midsummer nocturne

Our midsummer stay in Le Pin, a hamlet in southern France between Bordeaux and Toulouse was rich with natural wonders, not always seen but very much heard. From shrieking swifts diving through the 19th-century market hall in nearby Auvillar to a turtle dove purring beside a rural road, it was this bird lover’s idyll. We heard nightingale melodies throughout the day as well as after dark, and caught the calls of cirl buntings, hoopoes and black redstarts. And it wasn’t just birds. One night, crickets and frogs provided a chirruping and croaking medley – a memorable midsummer nocturne.
Sharon Pinner

Bands on every corner, Paris

Hiring a bike and exploring Paris for Fête de la Musique was a brilliant way to spend an urban solstice. Every year on 21 June, the city turns into one big free festival, with stages of all sizes springing up outside famous landmarks and local neighbourhood bars. Beginning in the heart of the city to catch some psychedelic guitar outside the Centre Georges Pompidou, we then pedalled past brass ensembles outside jazz bars near Jardin du Luxembourg, classic French techno along the banks of the Seine and scuzzy metal bands in squares of the 13th arrondissement.
Lizzy C

The golden light in Italy’s Piedmont

In the golden light of midsummer, Serralunga d’Alba’s rolling vineyards (about 35 miles south-east of Turin) come alive. Staying at Cascina Meriame, a working winery with panoramic views, I savoured barolo and barbaresco wines during intimate tastings led by passionate hosts. Evenings were spent watching the sun set over the Langhe Hills, a Unesco world heritage site, while enjoying local cheeses and nebbiolo wines. The nearby medieval castle added a touch of history to the serene landscape. For a tranquil midsummer retreat blending culture, cuisine and nature, this Piedmont gem is unparalleled.
Mr Ifan Morgan ap Dafydd

Winning tip: a fine place for a picnic, northern Iceland

We travelled to Grímsey from Akureyri for the island’s summer solstice festival. Arriving early, we hiked to the marker sign and received official certificates to confirm we had crossed the Arctic Circle. Celebrations began at Krian, the only restaurant on the island, and continued well into the night at the schoolhouse. The drink flowed and there was a treasure hunt, dancing, traditional songs and homemade food. Families came together for picnics on the wildflower-covered hillsides, outdoor chess tournaments were played at midnight and, local or stranger, all were welcomed. It was truly magical.
Elizabeth