trip

‘KPop Demon Hunters’ trio shine singing ‘Golden’ on Fallon

Ejae, Audrey Nuna and Rei Ami went up, up, up for their “Golden” moment on “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon.”

The trio, who provide the singing voices for the animated “KPop Demon Hunters” central girl group Huntr/x, hit the late-night TV show Tuesday to perform the Netflix movie’s signature song. It marks the first time they have hit the stage together for a live, full-length performance of “Golden,” and even Fallon could not contain his excitement.

The first No. 1 female K-pop song in the history of the Billboard Hot 100, “Golden” has helped propel the “KPop Demon Hunters” soundtrack to its newest accolade. Fallon informed Ejae, Nuna and Ami during the show that the record had gone platinum.

When asked about their experiences around the massive popularity of “KPop Demon Hunters,” the trio offered words including “surreal,” “scrumptious” “delicious,” “stunning” and “bonkers.”

“We try to come up with new adjectives every time,” said Nuna, who provides the singing voice for Mira.

Their “Tonight Show” appearance follows their brief cameo on the Season 51 premiere of “Saturday Night Live.” During their sitdown interview with Fallon, both Nuna and Ami (the singing voice of Zoey) recounted real-life encounters with “Golden” that drove home the magnitude of “KPop Demon Hunters’” impact.

For Nuna this happened on a trip to Korea when she saw an elderly street performer playing “Golden” on a traditional Korean instrument.

“I had to do a double take because in Korean culture, it’s especially impressive if an elderly person is impressed with you,” said Nuna, who explained that Korean elders rarely bat an eye at accomplishments like attending an Ivy League college or graduating top of your class. “It’s really hard [to impress them]. They have high standards. So for the older generation to embrace it, it’s something different.”

Ami’s encounter was with a much younger fan. She recalled a trip to an H Mart where she saw a young boy singing “Golden” at the top of his lungs while holding hands with his mother.

“I think it’s one thing to hear our song on the radio, but to hear it come out of a child, live?” Ami said. “In H Mart, my favorite place? … I just cried at HMart.”

Ejae, meanwhile, offered an anecdote that suggests “Golden’s” success may have been preordained.

Prompted by Fallon, the co-writer of “Golden” shared that while recording her part of the song at the studio, she saw a brief glimpse of “a grunge ghost.”

It was “a tall dude with a flannel … and blue jeans,” Ejae said. And this brief encounter may have been auspicious.

“My mom reminded me later [that] there’s a myth in Korea in the music [business], if you see a ghost or any paranormal activity while recording a song, it’s a hit,” she said.

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How to plan an extraordinary bikepacking trip across Catalina Island

As I fell asleep in a tent to the sounds of waves crashing on the beach and no cell phone service anywhere in the vicinity, I thought, this is the respite I needed. That is, until the wee hours of the morning when I heard something rumbling.

I slowly unzipped the tent door, poked my head out and saw it: a lone bison head-butting a picnic table, lifting one end into the air with alarming ease. I quickly snuck back into my hideaway and stayed quiet, listening to the gnarled sounds of this massive animal grazing just feet away from me.

A bison among some grass.

A North American Bison roams free and grazes near Little Harbor campground in Catalina

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The experience of bikepacking around Catalina Island was more than I had expected — both in its natural beauty and in its surprises. Within two days, 40-plus miles and some 5,000 feet of elevation, I was gobsmacked by the vistas, the morning light on the canyons and the solitude on the campground — aside from the abundant wildlife.

While not an “easy” trip (did I mention 5,000 feet in elevation?), the route from Catalina’s East End to Little Harbor and back to Avalon is one I’d recommend to both experienced adventurers and those newer to bikepacking, a blend of cycling and backpacking. It just requires some planning. Here’s what you should know, from getting your bike pass to planning out your stops.

Before the trip

The author's bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

The author’s bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

(James Murren)

Make your bicycle, camping and Catalina Express reservations

All cyclists on Catalina Island must have a Freewheeler Bike Pass, which can be obtained by purchasing a Catalina Island Conservancy membership. The cheapest $50 membership gets you one bike pass for the year, along with free admission to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden, discounts on Catalina Island campsites and other perks.

Once you have a pass, you must book a reservation to ride on Conservancy land. (You’ll get your physical bike pass when you arrive on Avalon and visit the Trailhead Visitor Center or Two Harbors Visitor Services.)

Camping reservations are also made through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. I reserved one night at Little Harbor Campground, but if I were to do it again, I would book two nights.

To get to and from Catalina, take the Catalina Express, which runs multiple trips a day from three locations in the Los Angeles area. When purchasing your ticket, you’ll pay a separate “additional article” fee to bring your bike onto the ferry.

What to pack

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

(James Murren)

Your bike. I decided to bring my Surly Pugsley fat bike simply because I love my state of mind when I’m on it. I feel like I’m going with the flow, stopping and taking pictures and having a good time. Time is not of the essence. A gravel or mountain bike will work fine on Catalina. E-bikes with pedals are also permitted and hard-shelled helmets are required for all bikers.

Bikepacking bags, a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. Just note that you’re allowed two pieces of luggage on the Catalina Express.

Clothes. Bring whatever you like to ride in and sleep in at night. I’d suggest a light puffy jacket if there’s no rain in the forecast, and pants and thermal leggings to keep the chill off. If rain is expected, pack appropriately, but also know that the Conservancy does shut down the trails and roads if the conditions seem dangerous.

Food. Sustenance for an overnighter can be covered by using the Airport in the Sky Restaurant near the Catalina Airport as a feed station. You can also fill your water containers there. Have a nice-sized meal at the café and buy what you need to eat while on your bike. I had the café pack me a sandwich for camping that evening. You can also bring food supplies with you or stop by Vons on the island to get what you need. At Little Harbor Campground, there is potable water, along with Porta Potties and cold showers.

Note: Fuel canisters/containers are not permitted on the Catalina Express. When you arrive on Avalon, Chet’s Hardware offers small canisters. If you buy one and do not end up using it, they will allow you to return it if the seal is intact. I ended up not using my stove. Overnight oats and cold instant coffee got me going.

My bikepacking journey — and what you might expect

Day one

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

(James Murren)

I woke in Avalon and pedaled my fat bike along Pebbly Beach Road to the turnoff for Wrigley Road. Climbing up Wrigley, I turned left on Renton Road, going around the gate and ascending up the remote double track. I had not seen another person for quite a while as I biked deeper into the hinterlands of the island, connecting to East End Light Road. Along the “backside” of the southern end of Catalina, it felt even more remote. East End afforded stunning views of the ocean and San Clemente Island to the south.

East End Road met up with Divide Road, as the trail map showed. The ocean sparkled in the distance, little crystals dancing on its surface. I scanned for whales but didn’t see any this time.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

(James Murren)

The start of the route at East End Road.

The start of the route at East End Road.

(James Murren)

Divide Road merged with the Airport Road at the Wrigley Reservoir, which was empty of water. There was a slight challenge here, though, in that I came to a chain-link fence with an opening for people to step through. Luckily, a touring group in an open-air truck was going by and the driver pointed out that I could walk around the fence to the right, where there was a clear path to do so.

The Airport in the Sky was my lunch destination. My wife took a shuttle bus from the Conservancy to the airport and met up with me. After lunch, I set out from the airport on the mostly six-mile descent to Little Harbor campground. El Rancho Escondido Road had a bump or two along the way, breaking up the downhill riding with a little climbing. I turned right onto Little Harbor Road and made my way to my campsite. My tent set up and food safely stored in the provided metal boxes, I went over to the tiny beach and sat on a driftwood log, relaxing under the sun’s warm rays.

1

Catalina Island's Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel.

2

The island at dusk.

1. Catalina Island’s Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel. (James Murren) 2. The island at dusk. (James Murren / For The Times)

In the middle of the night, as I mentioned above, a lone bison visited my campsite. Thankfully, nothing happened to me (other than not getting much sleep from that point on to sunrise) but Catalina Island officials warn visitors that there is no safe distance away from the large animal. “Never approach, touch or attempt to feed bison. If you feel threatened, identify an escape route,” the Conservancy states. “Place a large object between you and the bison (tree, rock, vehicle), and give the bison a path to avoid you.”

Day two

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

(James Murren)

From the campground the next morning, I went around to Middle Ranch Road. More stunning views of the Pacific marked the first few miles as I climbed, then descended, and climbed some more. It was somewhere around 8:30 in the morning and it felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Eventually, Middle Ranch turned inland. The terrain was gradual in its ascent and once I reached Quail Valley and Middle Ranch, the recently graded road was fast hardpack that allowed for cranking away the miles. I was big-ringin’ it and cruising. Getting into a pedaling cadence was great.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

(James Murren)

Middle Ranch met up with Airport Road, where I turned right and pedaled to Stagecoach Road. Stagecoach descended to Avalon, the hard road quickly dropping with forever views of the big blue ocean.

My overnighter came to a close and I thought of moments during both days when I was by stunned by the beauty that surrounded me — I was even able to see snowcapped San Gorgonio back on the mainland. I thought of friends that I wanted to bring along next time. Yes, no doubt, there will be a next time.

Scenes from James Murren's story on "How to plan a bikepacking trip across Catalina"

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‘I took my six-year-old on a holiday that turned into the best trip of her life’

Mum Vikki White had never been on a coach holiday before when she headed to Newquay with her mother and young daughter but she wasn’t prepared for what awaited

What do a six-year-old girl and an 80-something-year-old mum have in common? They both loved our classic British coach holiday to Newquay!

According to latest research, us Brits are thoroughly embracing multi-generational travel, which is why I decided it was time for me to try out the trend.

My six-year-old , my mother and me (a 40-something) were keen to spend a few days together in the school holidays and a Daish’s Holidays coach trip to Newquay looked to meet all of our requirements.

It’s safe to say I was a bit unsure – from sunshine breaks to skiing to UK jaunts, I try to squeeze in as many holidays as I can each year, but a coach trip was a first.

Thankfully, from the moment we hopped onboard our luxury vehicle, we felt right at home. Much to my relief, given the 320-mile trip we were embarking on, the coach was modern, boasting comfy seats with foot rests and air conditioning.

READ MORE: Ryanair issues holiday alert to Brits flying to Europe in October

So far, so good. Many of the friendly clientele on board told us they regularly took Daish’s Holidays coach trips, which was surely a good sign. They explained it isn’t a mode of travel for the impatient—we stopped at several service stations for rest along the way. With a bit of traffic as we headed down towards the South West region, we only just made it for dinner at our home for the next four nights, the Barrowfield Hotel.

Close to Newquay’s seafront, the 80-room residence is managed by Frank, who stepped on board the coach to personally greet us. My daughter was keen to hand over her ‘golden ticket’ to another member of the smiling staff at reception and was thrilled to be offered a choice of toys in return. There were only a few children staying at the hotel, and I thought this was a lovely touch.

Just like on the coach, we had our own seats in the dining room for our half-board meals, which needed to be selected in the morning for the evening and vice versa. From breakfast fry-ups to roast dinners with apple crumbles, dishes here are hearty and traditional.

The evening entertainment in the bar ranged from cabaret dancing and quizzes to live singers and bingo, with a kids’ games room providing even more entertainment. The number one attraction for all three of us at the hotel, however, was the indoor, heated swimming pool. We made full use of this during our stay and often had it to ourselves.

Keen to explore Newquay, we were pleased to find its tourist heart a short seafront stroll away. We tried out the Blue Reef Aquarium Newquay, which sits above lively Towan Beach and my daughter loved the informative talks about its resident Loggerhead Turtle and Blacktip Reef Sharks.

My mother was keener to try some of the trendy coffee shops on offer, and we particularly loved Mothersurf with its amazing cheese toasties. There are plenty of shops to peruse, and we couldn’t resist a play in one of the traditional arcades, with game machines spitting out tickets for every win that could be exchanged for prizes.

Back to the Barrowfield Hotel, where our bedrooms were spacious, with comfortable beds and great walk-in showers. And while our half board deal was a total bargain, we couldn’t resist heading out to check out local eateries on two of our nights’ stay – our favourite was Ginger and Joe, which offered tasty artisanal small plates and fabulous cocktails.

On our third day, we signed up for an optional coach trip to St Ives, the picturesque seaside town we decided was the perfect place to indulge in a cream tea. We headed to the Scoff Troff Cafe and were not disappointed. Being in Cornwall, we were sure to spread the layer of jam first before applying clotted cream!

Another highlight of this day out was the Tate St Ives, which had some brilliant activities on offer for youngsters. As for me, I loved the gift shop, which was filled with unique and creative finds. The Tate sits above the soft, sandy Porthmeor Beach, where we grabbed a coffee in one of the most stunning cafes I’ve ever seen before heading back to base.

As for Newquay, we had one more day to explore before making the long journey back up North. We first spent some time snuggled up on one of our hotel’s comfy sofas, chatting to our fellow guests who had become friends. We next headed out to paddle our feet in the water at beautiful Tolcarne Beach, which is just 200 yards away from the hotel.

We enjoyed a final potter into the lively city centre too, where we bought henna tattoos to mark our girls’ trip away, before returning to the Barrowfield to pack up ahead of our early start the next morning. I loved how clear the communication is on a Daish’s holiday – from what time we were going to eat to the exact time of our departure, it was all made easy for us.

As we prepared to depart, my mum told the hotel manager, Frank, that my daughter had pronounced our trip the best holiday of her life. Much to her delight, this earned her a large Daish’s teddy bear, which took pride of place on the coach back home!

We all felt the same – we had had a blast, and as we said goodbye to our driver and fellow passengers, we decided we needed to make our short coach break an annual occurrence. Daish’s Holidays offers a range of UK destinations from Llandudno to Eastbourne and Scarborough to Torquay, so we just need to decide where to go next.

Book the holiday

A Daish’s Holiday package includes luxury coach travel or free hotel guest parking on-site at most locations, convenient pickup and drop-off along popular routes, breakfast and three-course evening meals every day and on-site entertainment. Prices from £179 to £379 for self-drive and from £199 to £399 for the coach. Early Booking and Kids Go Free discounts also apply.

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TUI tourists floored by £9million holiday price increase which costs ‘trip to moon with NASA’

It’s no secret that flights and hotels have increased in price, but for one traveller, the cost of their trip was dubbed ‘a trip to the moon with NASA’ as it saw a whopping price increase

Gone are the days of booking a flight seat for £15.99 and an all-inclusive hotel for £100 as prices for a getaway abroad shoot up. But for one traveller, they were left baffled after their holiday package increased by a whopping £17million, prompting people to label it as much as a “trip to the moon with NASA”.

The holidaymaker, who didn’t reveal the exact details of their elaborate holiday, shared a screenshot of the cost inflation while using the TUI website. What started out as an £8million trip jumped to a staggering increase of £17million.

In a message on the TUI website, with the title ‘The cost of your holiday has increased’, it read: “We’re sorry to say the price for your holiday has gone up by £17734902.34. It’s because this trip uses flights from a third-party airline.

READ MORE: Woman climbs ‘busiest mountain in UK’ but one thing leaves her annoyedREAD MORE: ‘I stayed at Premier Inn and unexpected feature I found left me floored’

“We receive the latest prices from the airline a few times each day, but the price might change when we come to request the actual seats. Your new total is shown in the holiday summary.”

While it’s uncertain what the traveller put into the booking website, he shared the screenshot and wrote on Reddit: “So, £297 for both with flights seemed a little too good to be true, so I went through the motions. Unfortunately for me, I don’t have £18,000,000 in the bank to spend 4 days in Athens, even with the £2m discount.”

The post was met with a flurry of comments as everyone applauded the post. One asked: “Who are the third party airline, NASA?”

A second added: “Just a short layover on the moon.” “Sounds more like a Space X side hustle to me. Uber x Space X if you will”, a third penned.

“NASA’s having a…. bit of time off”, another shared. “Its only £120 deposit. Put it on klarna,” a fifth wrote.

While another wrote: “I feel you OP. I hate when they add on that little 69p to the price like that too. Like it’s such a sneaky trick. You can sort of rationalise it by convincing yourself you’re only paying £8867599 but let’s be honest here, you’re really paying more like £8867600.”

Someone else remarked: “Nothing beats a Jet2 holiday”, before another chimed in with: “And right now you can save £1m per person. That’s £4m off for a family of four!”

A TUI spokesperson said the error was likely caused by a technical error, and they’d like to apologise for the confusion.

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Win a luxurious two-night trip to Belfast with Aer Lingus and Titanic Hotel Belfast

We have a fantastic trip up for grabs, with breakfast and dinner included and a visit to the Game of Thrones Studio

We have teamed up with Aer Lingus and Titanic Hotel Belfast to give you the chance to win an unforgettable two-night stay in Belfast.

The prize for two includes return flights to Belfast City Airport from any UK airport on the Aer Lingus Regional network. You’ll stay at the multi award winning Titanic Hotel Belfast, a landmark destination in the city’s iconic Titanic Quarter with breakfast each morning, plus an unforgettable evening of fine dining with a three-course dinner at the hotel’s renowned Wolff Grill. Blending timeless heritage with contemporary luxury, this is the ultimate way to discover Belfast’s maritime legacy.

The lucky winner will also have the opportunity to step into the heart of filmmaking with a visit to the Game of Thrones Studio where the world of Westeros was created. Explore the groundbreaking craftsmanship and technical artistry that brought one of television’s most celebrated series to life.

Simply fill in the form below for the chance to win this complete package! The competition closes on 31st October. If you can’t see the form click here.

Aer Lingus Regional flights to/from Belfast City Airport include:

Birmingham | Up to 6 flights daily

Cardiff | Daily flights

Edinburgh | Up to 3 flights daily

East Midlands | Daily flights

Glasgow | Daily flights

Leeds Bradford | Up to 4 flights daily

Manchester | Up to 4 flights daily

Exeter | 2 flights weekly

Southampton | Up to 3 flights daily

Aer Lingus Regional is exclusively operated by Emerald Airlines. Emerald Airlines was named the most punctual airline in the UK, 2024.* Based on data from the UK Civil Aviation Authority’s (CAA) Trends Report for 2024.

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Tell us about a great trip you’ve had since hitting 60 | Travel

The travel bug doesn’t need to wane as we age. With potentially more time on our hands, there’s a whole world out there to explore. We’d love to hear about a special travel adventure you’ve had in your 60s, 70s or even 80s. Whether it was hiking in the Himalayas, a first-time solo or group trip, or an inspiring weekend somewhere more local, we want to hear about it.

The best tip of the week, chosen by Tom Hall of Lonely Planet wins a £200 voucher to stay at a Coolstays property – the company has more than 3,000 worldwide. The best tips will appear in the Guardian Travel section and website.

Keep your tip to about 100 words

If you have a relevant photo, do send it in – but it’s your words we will be judging for the competition.

We’re sorry, but for legal reasons you must be a UK resident to enter this competition.

The competition closes on Monday 6 October at 10am BST

Have a look at our past winners and other tips

Read the terms and conditions here

Send us your tip

You can send in your best tip by filling in the form below. 

Your responses, which can be anonymous, are secure as the form is encrypted and only the Guardian has access to your contributions. We will only use the data you provide us for the purpose of the feature and we will delete any personal data when we no longer require it for this purpose. For true anonymity please use our SecureDrop service instead.

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The budget Australian trip that costs about the same as a week in Spain

Budget Brisbane’s chic and cheerful – Clare Fitzsimons gets closer to nature for way less in one of Australia’s finest cities, forking out a surprisingly small amount for her stay

Sitting on pale yellow sand decorated by imprints of dozens of tiny silver gull feet, with the Pacific Ocean lapping around my toes, the first hint of an orange and red dawn appears on the horizon.

It’s hard not to think in cliches at moments like these and while “the best things in life are free” is an overused phrase, it does sum up my surroundings pretty perfectly.

Watching a sunrise on the Australian coast is one of those priceless moments people pay a fortune for – but you don’t have to. We all know getting to Oz is never going to be cheap but there are ways to make that once in a lifetime trip Down Under cost not much more than a week in Spain.

I’ll admit the thought of doing Brisbane on a budget at first brought visions of the I’m A Celebrity camp – with all those terrifying spiders, and snakes. But I needn’t have worried as the east coast city’s plush hotels and apartments are remarkably affordable, costing from £79 per room a night.

We stayed at the Oaks Brisbane on Charlotte Suites (from £94 for a one bedroom apartment sleeping two and £141 for two bedrooms) and it was the perfect place to rest up after the 24-hour flight. I flew with Singapore Airlines, with a three-hour stopover at Changi and yes, it’s a long flight, but wasn’t as bad as I’d feared and soon the jetlag was gone.

Brisbane hosted the British & Irish Lions earlier this year and there’s an Ashes Test this December, not to mention the 2032 Olympics and Paralympics, but a slew of free and cheap activities are also on your doorstep. From the botanical gardens, the famous Brisbane sign and the Wheel of Brisbane (like the London Eye but a lot faster), to miles of riverside to wander for hours – and it was all delightfully spider and snake-free.

Not a walking fan? You can jump on the CityCat, which is a boat service ferrying people along the Brown Snake, as the river is known, all for just 50 cents a trip – that’s less than 25p.

This budget friendly approach is not unique to boat services. Trains are the same price and are incredibly easy to use as I discovered when I split my trip and moved south an hour or so to the Gold Coast and the idyllically named Surfers Paradise (with that beach and sunrise).

The accommodation was very affordable there too. We had a two bed suite at The Island Gold Coast, just a few yards from the sea, and its rooms start at £91.

Food prices are similar to Britain but portion sizes are enormous and most meals easily feed two. There are plenty of bargains and special offers to be had – The Island, for instance, does a weekend bottomless grazing lunch (delicious) in its rooftop bar with all food and drink included for less than £40.

In fact, whatever and wherever you choose to eat, from bargain burgers to high-end fine dining (Donna Chang restaurant in Brisbane is a real gem if you’re splashing out), you are pretty much guaranteed to get food with a view.

One of the best was at Joeys, atop a Brisbane cliff with fabulous food you’ll have earned after the steep climb up the steps to get there.

And while that restaurant brought a smile to my face, it was real joeys that warmed my heart during a visit to Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary along the Gold Coast.

Hopping excitedly over to eat from my hand, the pint-sized young kangaroos were undeniably cute and even the much larger and slightly more intimidating adults were very gentle and happy to be petted while they munched away on food pellets.

Animal interactions are a huge part of this park, and even locals will often come to the entrance for a morning coffee and to watch (and feed) the lorikeets.

Here for free, even before you go in, staff will give you a small plate of liquid nectar, to which parrots are partial. Next expect flurries of green feathers flocking over in seconds, hanging on the plate, your arms and often your head. A pair of the birds even decided to get a little amorous and start smooching while scrabbling about in my hair – a very odd experience.

But the highlight of the trip was four-year-old Kiki the koala.

Queensland is one of the only states which allows people to hold koalas and the Currumbin is one of the leading animal conservation sanctuaries with its own wildlife hospital treating 16,000 animals a year – including 500 koalas. Kiki was brought over and, while I was grinning like a child, she was placed in my arms for a cuddle and a photo, clinging to me like she was a baby – or more like I was a tree. The park is a bit of a splurge at around £35 for entrance and the koala experiences starting from £30, but it’s easily a full day out and something I’ll never forget.

Even if you don’t leave Brisbane, you can still meet a few of Kiki’s rellies on The Koala and River Cruises (costing just over £55) which takes you up the river to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. This time I stroked the equally adorable five year-old Fraser, fed kangaroos and saw everything from dingoes and wombats to crocodiles and snakes.

If wildlife isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other fascinating excursions that won’t break the bank. A trip to Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre takes you back 60,000 years to learn about the ancestors of the first nation people. Going on a walkabout, the guide relates the history of the people and their connection with the land.

Jellurgal is known as the Dreaming Mountain and a Dreaming Story is a tale told through the generations as the people don’t believe in writing down their language so everything is passed on by oral tradition.

Whatever you want from a holiday you can find in Queensland. From thrill-seeking to beach-lazing – the state enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine a year. A day trip from Brisbane to Tangalooma Island Resort on nearby Moreton Island takes you to the white beaches of the third largest sand island in the world (the top two are also in Oz) where you can spend the day sunbathing and watching the enormous pelicans bob along the coastline.

Despite visiting in Australia’s winter, the temperatures were remarkably similar to a British summer, regularly in the 20s.

If views are your thing then the Story Bridge Adventure Climb is the place for you. It’s pricey at £75 but as one of remarkably few climbable cantilever bridges in the world, definitely worth it – even in the very fetching jumpsuit you have to wear.

If that’s not enough of an adrenaline rush, try a kayak trip along the Brisbane River (costing just over £35). Having read the river contains bull sharks, I was a tad nervous. It didn’t help when my brilliant guide from the Riverlife Adventure Centre showed me how to get back into the kayak if I fell out (which largely seemed to be belly-flopping onto the top and wriggling about like an eel).

Despite my fears and a few large wobbles, I managed not to fall in and the sense of achievement (and yes, relief) was palpable on returning to the pontoon 90 minutes later. Shark-infested river survived.

That’s what Australia is, a series of unforgettable moments you’ll be regaling your friends about for years.

And while not all the best things in life are as free as that sunset, they’re a lot closer than you’d think.

Book the holiday

Singapore Airlines offers return flights to Brisbane, Queensland, Australia, from Gatwick and Heathrow starting at £1,114 in economy; £2,884 in premium economy. singaporeair.com Rooms at the Oaks Brisbane on Charlotte Suites apartments start at around £94 a night. oakshotels.com Rooms at the ibis Styles Brisbane Elizabeth Street hotel start at around £79 a night. ibisstylesbrisbaneelizabeth.com.au Rooms at The Island Gold Coast hotel in Surfers Paradise start at around £91 a night. theislandgoldcoast.com.au

More info at queensland.com

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Ignored European city named ‘best for one-night trip’ and is just an hour from UK

Holidu has shared the ultimate European destinations for “one night only” trips, and the top-ranking destination is in France – notable for its walkability and proximity to the UK

Brits low on time but in desperate need of an escape can make the most of their holiday in one of the European cities. Named the best for “one night only” trips, these destinations are convenient to visit from the UK and can be thoroughly enjoyed — even if only for a day.

The holiday rental search engine, Holidu, has created a list of Europe’s best cities for one-night breaks, looking at the factors that can make all the difference in 24-hours, including travel time from the UK, the distance from the airport to the city centre and how long it takes to walk between the city’s three main attractions.

Overall, French cities reigned supreme for one-night stays, according to Holidu’s findings. Destinations in France took three of the top ten spots, with Rennes, Nantes, and Montpellier all performing well.

It is the short flights from the UK and compact city centres convenient for exploring on foot that make them perfect for quick holidays. That said, one destination was cited as the best of the best.

Taking first place for the best one-night European city break is France’s Breton capital, Rennes. The city scored exceptionally well for how quickly British travellers are able to get there from the UK, with flights taking just 59 minutes from London and the journey from the airport to the city centre taking less than 15 minutes.

One-night city breaks have become massively popular in recent years, as time-strapped travellers forgo weeks of planning and preparation for short escapes that don’t drain their holiday allowance.

But that’s also why choosing the right destination for a short trip can be tricky, and not all European cities work well for a one-night experience. According to Holidu’s research, big-name capitals aren’t always your best bet for one-night trips.

Paris sits at 47th on the search engine’s best ‘one night only’ destination list, while Rome comes in at 85th, and Athens at 95th. A large reason for this is because of how spread apart popular attractions are, making it difficult for those with only a day free to explore efficiently.

Coming in second on Holidu’s ranking is Nantes, France. The city ranked well for its short flight time of around 1 hour and 6 minutes from London, as well as a very short airport transfer time of just 14 minutes to the city centre. Nantes is also a highly walkable city, with its major attractions all situated within a 39-minute walk.

Bremen, Germany came in at third place, while Basel, Switzerland and The Hague, Netherlands came in fourth and fifth place respectively.

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Angels fall to Rockies, go 1-9 on their final road trip of season

Kyle Freeland pitched six solid innings, Blaine Crim homered and drove in two runs, and the Colorado Rockies beat the Angels 3-1 on Sunday in their final home game of a miserable season.

Victor Vodnik got three outs for his 10th save as the Rockies improved to 43-113 with six games remaining, ensuring they won’t tie the 1962 New York Mets for the most losses in one season by a National League team since 1900. Those expansion Mets finished 40-120-1.

Mike Trout doubled leading off the game after hitting his 400th career home run Saturday night. He scored the only run for the Angels (70-86), who went 1-9 on their last road trip of the year.

Trout scored on Jo Adell’s single in the first but Freeland (5-16) was in control after that. He retired 13 of 14 batters before Taylor Ward’s leadoff single in the sixth. The left-hander issued his only walk one out later but ended his day by getting Logan O’Hoppe to ground into an inning-ending double play.

Angels starter Caden Dana (0-3) didn’t allow a hit through three innings, but three walks in the second allowed the Rockies to tie it on Kyle Karros’ sacrifice fly.

Crim’s leadoff homer in the fourth gave Colorado the lead, and Freeland and the bullpen made it stand up.

Crim added an RBI groundout in the eighth.

Key moment: The Angels had runners on first and third with one out in the first, but Freeland struck out O’Hoppe and Christian Moore to keep the damage at one run. Freeland had seven strikeouts.

Key stats: Colorado finished 25-56 at Coors Field, the most home losses in franchise history. The previous high was 46 in 2012.

Up next: The Angels host Kansas City on Tuesday to begin their final homestand. They had not announced a scheduled starter yet.

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‘I went on a hot tub boat trip on the Thames and was floored by one thing’

If you feel stuck for something to do in London, Skuna Boats is the perfect activity – relaxing, fun and something really different

The views were spectacular
The views were spectacular

Having lived in London for the best part of a decade I made it my mission when I first moved here to cross as many of the main tourist attractions off the list as possible.

It’s all too easy when you live in a city as amazing as London to take things for granted so after a feverish couple of years, I done all the big ones – St Paul’s, the London Eye, the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace, the Royal Parks, you name it, I’d looked round it.

You may think this would leave me at a loss for fun activities to do each weekend and that’s where you’d be very wrong. Some of the very best attractions London has to offer are those that fly under the radar – and there’s one I’ve been eyeing up out of the window at work for as long as I can imagine.

Skuna Boats, based in Canary Wharf, offer a dazzling array of water-based activities. From an igloo boat, where you cosy and ensconced is a see-through igloo while you potter about the water ways of Canary Wharf, to the BBQ boat, which pretty much does what it says on the tin. But the one that really caught my eye was the hit tub boat. Imagine the fun, being in a hot tub ON the water.

One gloriously sunny Saturday afternoon four friends and I donned our swimming costumes and ventured out onto the water. We picked evening so we got the best of both worlds, making the most of the last of the sunshine and then floating around Canary Wharf, gazing at the glittering lights, as the sun went down as we sipped wine and giggled.

It was a fabulous experience
It was a fabulous experience

The first thing to mention is Skuna take safety very seriously. You delegate one of your party to be captain and alcohol is banned for them. You’re then given a very thorough safety talk and quiz so you’re ready to take to the water in the safest possible way.

After changing in the lovely on site changing rooms, where you can rent soft and fluffy robes and towels, we made our way down to the pier and our waiting boat.

After another very thorough run through of how to operate the boat – which once you get your head round everything being in the opposite direction to where you think it should be – it’s surprisingly easy. We were loaded up with our waterproof containers holding our phones, which I would highly recommend taking as the views are spectacular and our drinks and we were off.

It took a few minutes to get the hang of steering our sturdy vessel but this only added to the fun. The water in the hot tub, which is wood fired, was absolutely perfect and felt like such a luxurious way to see Canary Wharf from a very different angle.

As we wound our way along the route, one thing that really blew my mind was the number of people stopping to wave, smile and shout hello to us. I’m not a born and bred Londoner but I’ve been here for long enough to know if this amazing city has a downside, it’s that the people aren’t always the friendliest.

I thought I’d feel somewhat mortified being spotted in my cossie so close to where I work every day but everyone was so nice and we were having such an amazing time, I didn’t mind in the slightest.

Canary Wharf has always been a stunning part of London and the views from our little hot tub oasis were absolutely spectacular. What a way to see what can be an underrated part of the city.

After 75 minutes on the water, it was time for us to get out and sample the Skuna Sauna. If I was feeling relaxed by the time I got out of the hot tub, I was positively zen after leaving the sauna. A real piece of luxury and health right there on the quayside.

So, next time you’re feeling a bit stuck with what to do in London I cannot recommend Skuna Boats highly enough – I can’t wait to set sail again.

For more information and for a full list of prices, make sure to visit the Skuna website.

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Trump’s UK trip showed PM has won right to disagree

Sarah SmithNorth America editor

“Was it worth it?” – BBC correspondents assess Trump’s state visit

There is little doubt that Donald Trump was more enthused about the day he spent at Windsor Castle than his talks with Sir Keir Starmer at Chequers. And that is no slight on the UK prime minister’s hospitality during this state visit, which Trump and his team have been eager to praise.

Starmer’s country residence is undoubtedly an impressive meeting place, and there was even an aerial display by the British Army’s Red Devils who flew enormous British and American flags to welcome the US leader to the Buckinghamshire countryside.

But as much as Trump appears to genuinely like Starmer, with their warm relationship on display at a joint news conference on Thursday, the president was totally beguiled by being hosted by the King and Queen on Wednesday.

According to his chief of staff, Susie Wiles, his definitive highlight of the trip was the elaborate evening banquet for 160 guests in Windsor Castle’s St George’s Hall that evening.

For Trump, who has a deep and longstanding admiration for the Royals, it is hard to compete with being toasted by the King. No matter how many jets are laid on for you in the skies above Chequers.

EPA Image shows the Red Devils performing an air display at Chequers in Buckinghamshire on 18 September 2025EPA

The Red Devils performed for the UK and US leaders above the skies of Chequers

State visits like these allow presidents and prime ministers to connect with one other on a more personal level, and offer a chance for their respective staff to build working relationships. They are also an opportunity to demonstrate the closeness of relations on a big stage.

In this sense, it was smooth sailing for both sides.

There was no real awkwardness during the joint news conference, which had the potential to exposeu areas of disagreements. When the two men were asked about one of those issues, the UK’s plan to recognise Palestinian statehood, Trump said he disagreed but also gave Starmer a big smile and a warm slap on the back as the prime minister condemned Hamas.

And on another potentially tricky topic, the sacking of Peter Mandelson as UK ambassador to the US over his relationship with Jeffrey Epstein, Trump was unusually taciturn. He said very little and immediately deferred to Starmer.

The two leaders did discuss Gaza and Ukraine when they spent almost an hour talking alone without any of their staff in the room. And while they were very amicable during the news conference, it also quickly became clear that neither had changed their positions on the key issues where they disagree.

Watch: Pomp, pageantry and protests as Trump gets the royal treatment in Windsor

There are limits to how much influence any leader can have on Trump, regardless of the success of a trip such as this.

Inside Chequers, I asked Wiles, the president’s chief-of-staff, how much difference it will make to Britain’s ability to influence US policy on trade, tariffs and international affairs. Her response was frank – none at all.

However much Trump enjoyed this state visit, he is not going to alter his positions on important global matters because of a memorable night spent at Windsor Castle.

But after all the pomp and pageantry, Starmer appears to have at least earned the right to respectfully disagree with Trump without paying a diplomatic penalty.

It can be costly to get on the wrong side of the US president, but by carefully navigating the relationship the UK has managed to avoid the punishingly high trade tariffs that have been imposed on other nations. Starmer, meanwhile, has not been subjected to a humiliating dressing down or given a derogatory nickname.

While this was never going to descend into the kind of awkward clash we’ve seen at times in the Oval Office this year – not just with Ukraine’s Volodymyr Zelensky but with other leaders too – it is notable that a more relaxed Trump approached the questions during the concluding news conference in a far less combative way than he often does back in Washington.

Did the UK prime minister play his “trump” card by arranging this lavish state visit? It was choreographed flawlessly and clearly delighted Trump and the first lady.

And while Starmer may not have won the ability to change the president’s mind, he can disagree with him without jeopardising relations. For that reason, a falling out now feels further away than ever before.

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‘I went on a solo trip for my birthday – no one tells you how different it can be’

For most people, birthdays are spent as a celebration with those who are closest to you and it was always that way for me – but this year, I wanted a change and it served me in more ways I could’ve imagined

(Image: Shannon Miller)

I’ve always admired people who travel solo. For me, it’s nerve-wracking enough to go out to eat alone – I never thought I’d be brave enough to do it, not at this point in my life. But for my 26th birthday, I booked a ticket, and I don’t regret it.

Birthdays are odd days. You look forward to them, make plans with those closest to you, and yet, without fail, someone lets you down. Last year, I decided enough was enough and decided to give myself the gift I’d been waiting for.

I didn’t let the fear from my family members hold me back either. I booked a trip to Turkey, leaving no time for anyone to talk me out of it.

It was better than I ever expected
It was better than I ever expected(Image: Shannon Miller)

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And I know I’m not alone in this. Solo holidays are trending right now, and for good reason. In a report by American Express, solo travel is shown to be a major trend among young travellers, with 76% of Millennials and Gen-Z planning solo trips in 2025.

Now, social media is full of people documenting their solo trips, and it’s giving others the push to try it for themselves. In my experience, as soon as I reached my hotel, I knew I’d made the right decision.

Paloma Orenda in Antalya was beautiful, and the staff went out of their way to make me feel seen. They gave me my own itinerary, booked me into restaurants, surprised me with a birthday massage, and reserved two days in a private cabana.

The hotel decorated my room for the special day
The hotel decorated my room for the special day(Image: Shannon Miller)

It wasn’t just the thoughtful gestures that I appreciated – every staff member was friendly, the food was great and the hotel was beautiful.

Going away alone brought its own challenges. I started strong with a whole row of seats to myself on the flight, but once there, eating alone or finding a sun lounger solo felt daunting.

The first few days were tricky. But once I got out of my head, I realised no one cared. People had spent good money on their holidays – they weren’t watching me. In fact, I might have been the person they admired, the one brave enough to go it alone.

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On my actual birthday, I had a massage and spent time at my cabana. It was set apart from the noise, shaded by trees, the sun warming the cushions. For the first time, the day truly felt mine.

I stayed in my own space and it was freeing. I enjoyed it far more than I ever expected. I remember sitting in a restaurant, glancing around nervously as I took the first bite. I braced for stares that never came – everyone was wrapped up in their own moments. That’s when I realised how much of my fear was in my head.

Spending the day at a Dimçayı was magical
Spending the day at a Dimçayı was magical(Image: Shannon Miller)

Now I understand why solo trips are essential. Yes, as a woman, and a Black woman at that, there’s always a fear about safety. But if I’d let those thoughts stop me, I’d never have stepped out of my comfort zone.

I admire people who go on solo holidays – and now I know anyone can do it. Looking back, I realise the best gift I gave myself at 26 was learning that my own company is enough. Gratitude has a funny way of softening loneliness.

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Marco Rubio to address global security during overseas trip

Sept. 12 (UPI) — U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio will visit Israel and the United Kingdom to address security matters in Gaza and globally from Saturday through Thursday.

Rubio first will travel to Israel, where he plans to discuss the Israel-Hamas war and security in the Middle East while affirming the United States’ “commitment to Israeli security,” according to a State Department news release.

“He will also emphasize our shared goals: ensuring Hamas never rules over Gaza again and bringing all the hostages home,” said Thomas Pigott, State Department principal deputy spokesperson.

Rubio and Israeli leaders will discuss Israeli military operational goals and the objectives of the Israel Defense Force’s Operation Gideon’s Chariots II, which targets Hamas leadership and members in Gaza City.

Rubio and Israeli leaders also will discuss “our commitment to fight anti-Israel actions, including unilateral recognition of a Palestinian state that rewards Hamas terrorism and lawfare at the [International Criminal Court] and [International Court of Justice],” Pigott said.

Rubio also is scheduled to meet with the families of hostages being held by Hamas to “underscore that their relative’s lives remains a top priority,” Pigott added.

After concluding the visit in Israel, Rubio is scheduled to travel to the United Kingdom to meet with U.K. Foreign Secretary Yvette Cooper to discuss “critical global challenges,” he said.

Those challenges include the war in Ukraine, stopping Iran from developing nuclear weapons, securing a cease-fire and the release of all hostages held by Hamas, and competing with China.

Rubio’s diplomatic trip is to occur after Qatari Prime Minister Sheikh Mohammed bin Adbulrahman al-Thani was to meet with President Donald Trump, Vice President JD Vance, Rubio and U.S. special envoy Steve Witkoff on Friday.

The prime minister and president are expected to discuss the recent IDF strike against Hamas officials in Qatar’s capital, Doha, and a potential defense agreement between Qatar and the United States.

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Antiques Road Trip descends into bitter clash as expert abandons co-star

Antiques Road Trip descended into bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row that saw them split up at the auction house

Paul Laidlaw
Antiques Road Trip descended into bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row(Image: BBC)

Antiques Road Trip descended into a bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row. The BBC afternoon favourite returned over the weekend with a previous instalment when Paul Laidlaw joined fellow expert Margie Cooper on the valuation programme, and the pair ventured from Lincolnshire as they set off on their way to the auction house in Harrogate.

With Paul behind the wheel as Margie set out on an expedition that would see her try to contact spirits from beyond, she warned him ‘not to start with all this war stuff’ as they made their way to the auction house.

Paul began: “I don’t know much about it, airfields! Lincs, East Coast. I’ve got to bring the war up.” Margie then joked: “Oh, don’t, you’re not going to start with all this war stuff!”

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Margie Cooper
Once inside, Margie deliberately crept up on her co-star and he fumed: ‘Whoa, whoa, whoa! Are you familiar with the concept of trespassing?’(Image: BBC)

Paul shot back: “My tactic is… but you won’t. I’m sure this won’t upset you. I will just be hovering behind, ready to snatch. Is that the best you can do?”

Margie hit back: “Don’t you dare! Don’t you dare!” Paul, who was pursuing the purchase of military memorabilia and did go on to discover some rather interesting artefacts, joked to his co-star: “We may end up in the same shop this morning. I’m talking about militaria.”

Not quite satisfied with that stance, Margie shot back: “Sniffing around! Oh no! Please! You’re not still buying that old rubbish, are you?” and she suggested once they had arrived: “Shall we divide and conquer? I’ll just abandon you by the roadside!”

Once inside, Margie deliberately crept up on her co-star and he fumed: “Whoa, whoa, whoa! Are you familiar with the concept of trespassing? I thought you were,” but she fired back: “I am allowed to go where I want to! I was told!”

Paul, furious at this stage, ranted: “is this? An interrogation? You come in here and interrogate me!” Despite this, the pair still maintained a good rapport on screen for the rest of the episode and were on civil terms by the time the auction came around.

Antiques Roadshow
The pair managed to keep things civil after their initial spat (Image: BBC)

It comes just days after dealer Paul was gobsmacked after he stumbled upon a rare vintage camera in an antique shop. The camera later fetched a whopping £20,000 at auction.

Paul had snapped up the camera for a mere £60 and was left stunned alongside competitor Kate Bliss at the Bury St. Edmunds auction in Suffolk when the hammer fell at such an astronomical price, especially after watching the bidding increments soar.

The specialist found the camera while hunting for curiosities and collectables in Margate, Kent. The shop owner explained: “Three floors, the upstairs is mainly furniture, but there’s stuff everywhere. And on this floor, there are four rooms through, and in the middle, there’s a staircase which goes down to a room full of chairs and another room full below!”

Faced with the daunting task ahead, Paul joked: “Don’t send the cavalry, okay?” After spending a considerable amount of time rummaging through the treasures, Paul returned to the counter and proposed: “In your cabinet over there, optical instrument… £75 on that, I bid you £50.

“Give me £60 and I’ll shake your hand, but I’m not doing any better than that, I’m afraid,” the proprietor responded. “Shake my hand!” Paul retorted, and the owner added, “Good man, deal done.”

He then turned to the camera and revealed: “What do you get for your money when you open it up? That looks like a peepside and it is!”.

“I think this is a very early camera. If I’m right, that could be quite exciting. The photographic market is very much in the ascent, it’s a hot market, I think that’s a good thing.”

Antiques Road Trip is available to stream on BBC iPlayer.

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A place at the farmer’s table on a foodie trip to Trieste | Food and drink

In Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere, travel writer Jan Morris described the city’s many faces and “ambivalence”, maintaining that, unlike most other Italian cities, it has “no unmistakable cuisine”. But I had come to Trieste to experience, if not a cuisine, then a culinary tradition which, to me at least, does seem unmistakable: the osmiza scene of the surrounding countryside.

An osmiza (or osmize in the plural) is a Slovene term for a smallholding that produces wine in the Karst Plateau, a steep rocky ridge scattered with pine and a patchwork of vineyards that overlooks the Adriatic Sea. Visiting osmize is a centuries-old tradition in which these homesteads open their doors to the public for a fleeting period each year. Guests order their food and wine at a till inside – where a simply tiled bar, often set into local stone, might boast family photos, halogen lights and a chalkboard menu – before heading outside to feast at long Oktoberfest-style tables and benches.

Illustration: Guardian Graphics

“On the Italian side of the border, we just serve cold food,” Jacob Zidarich tells us, as he places down plates of pickled courgette, house-cured salumi, local cow’s milk cheese and a homemade sausage with mustard and grated horseradish. “But in Slovenia, you find cooked food.”

I am sitting with my partner on the hot terrace at Zidarich’s family home, looking out over a glittering Adriatic. To accompany our food, Zidarich pours two glasses of liquid gold vitovska, a white wine indigenous to this corner of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, the north-eastern Italian region that borders Slovenia, and which is home to the port city of Trieste.

To understand the tradition of visiting osmize is to grasp something of Trieste’s complex history and multifaceted cultural identity. The word derives from the Slovenian osem, meaning “eight”, a reference to a decree by 18th-century Holy Roman empress Maria Theresa that farmers in the Karst could sell their wares for eight consecutive days each year.

The result is an enduring tradition in which farmers only open for a short time each season, although almost all of them are now open for more than eight days a year. For this reason, no two osmiza-based itineraries are the same. Turn up at virtually any time of year and there will be osmize open – especially over the warmer months – all offering an affordable flavour of the Friulian countryside.

You’ll pay little more than €2-3 for a quarter-litre carafe of wine and €12-15 for an abundant platter of cold cuts, pickles and pillowy white bread. The tradition is particular to this tiny nook of Friuli, although as Zidarich indicated, it also exists – with differences – over the Slovenian border. Our focus is the Italian side where you can check which osmize are open (on the day of writing, there are 13) and at what time on the website osmize.com.

An osmiza spread for one at Verginella Dean, including home-cured salumi and hams, local cow’s milk cheese, pickles, olives and sun-dried tomatoes. Photograph: Mina Holland

I base myself at the charming Hotel Albero Nascosto in the centre of Trieste for three nights and, with the intention of visiting as many of the osmize as possible, hire a car. I make it to four osmize, and realise quickly that Zidarich is something of an exception. Although his family had been making simple white and red wines for generations, it was his father, Benjamin, who transformed the farm into one of the most respected wine producers in the region. At other osmize we mostly drink wine from kegs. Some might describe these places as rustic, but even the table wines here have a clear style and moreish complexity to them.

Next up is Verginella Dean, an osmiza bustling with both locals and visitors and known for its peerless view of the Gulf of Trieste. From here the city’s Piazza Unità d’Italia is just visible, as is the brutalist Temple of Monte Grisa (which we visit afterwards). From an outdoor bar with two wine taps, I order a quarter of malvasia for two of us and a mixed platter of pork cuts, triangles of salty cheese and sun-dried tomatoes “for one” (it could feed four).

Osmize aren’t so much a cuisine as a gastronomic tradition, but I might have put to Jan Morris that they are emblematic of a place that, although bureaucratically Italian, has strong Slovenian influences. Zidarich’s vineyards straddle the border with most of the land being in Italy, but Slovenian is the language spoken at home, as with all the farmers I met.

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“We don’t feel Italian here, we feel like we’re from Trieste,” says Theresa Sandalj, who owns a green coffee import business based in the city. The daughter of Trieste Slovenians, she tells me she grew up without any Italian traditions – “no lasagne, no ravioli” – and that when she met her Milanese husband she gave him a copy of Morris’s book “to explain what I was”.

Trieste, then, is at a crossroads between three great European cultures: Roman, Slavic and Austrian. But it doesn’t stop there – it’s a multi-faith, “inter-racial jumble”, as Morris had it, home to one of the largest synagogues in Europe alongside Greek and Serbian Orthodox churches. Its significant immigrant communities rub shoulders.

Besides osmize, there are plenty of reasons for hungry travellers to visit Trieste, from its quirky coffee culture complete with its own vocabulary (here an espresso is a nero, which could refer to a glass of red wine elsewhere in the region) to fresh fish and seafood at restaurants such as Trattoria Nerodiseppia and Le Barettine, which are both within spitting distance of the hotel.

Mimì e Cocotte, which specialises in regional natural wines. Photograph: Lavinia Colonna Preti

We also loved Mimì e Cocotte, a centrally located seasonal restaurant that combines the humility of home-cooked food with a sense of occasion, and specialises in regional natural wines. With these we wash down courgette frittata and two plates of pasta – cacio e pepe, and cavatelli with tomatoes and stracciatella. Just outside Trieste, in the seaside village of Duino, Alla Dama Bianca has the fading charm of a 1970s hotspot. Here we eat razor clams and watch swans glide across the water as the sun sets.

Back in Trieste, on Via Giusto Muratti, we discover Pagna, an artisanal bakery and natural wine bar run by the Serbian pastry chef Pedja Kostic, who was drawn to Trieste from Belgrade via the US, by the wine scene. At Pagna I eat the almond croissant of my life: a perfect crisp pastry with a pillowy interior hugging not-too-much frangipane.

Drinks and nibbles at Pagna, which specialises in natural wines

But it was for osmize that I came, where each one reflects the people behind it. At Šuc Erika, an osmiza in the middle of a farmyard, whose walls are adorned with a picture depicting ricotta production and felt-tip drawings by previous child guests, we order from a woman in a Metallica T-shirt. Afterwards, we sit under a pergola of ripening grapes. Rather magically, we are the only ones here, and sip our drinks (which, unusually, include a delicious cloudy beer brewed in-house) to a soundtrack of cattle lowing and stamping their hooves.

Unable to resist just one more before we leave, we head to Osmiza Boris in Medeazza, where Boris’s wife, Patricia, is behind the bar. She tells us about the salumi, wine vinegars, olive oil and honey they make on-site, while two teenage sons pad in and out of a courtyard in flip-flops. Boris was recommended to us by a waiter at La Dama Bianca as one of his favourites to visit before work, which gives you some indication of how widely enjoyed osmize are here – democratic and available to everybody, when they happen to be open.

The trip was provided by Promo Turismo FVG, the tourist board of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. Doubles at Hotel Albero Nascosto from £120 B&B



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On the Rize: a road trip to Turkey’s fairytale north-east | Turkey holidays

A rainy part of the world where locals’ tea-drinking habits verge on obsessive. That may sound familiar, but a shared love of tea is where similarities between Turkey’s Rize province and the UK start and end. In fact, this corner of the country feels more like a mythical land, a fairytale mix of mist-shrouded mountains and dramatically plunging valleys cloaked in impenetrably deep, dark forests.

Despite the dramatic landscapes, international tourism has never really taken off here. Running between the eastern edge of the Black Sea and the rugged Pontic Alps, just shy of the Georgian border, it’s been a tricky spot to reach, historically (a bus journey of about 19 hours from Istanbul – though an airport opened in 2022, which cuts this to two hours).

I became intrigued by Rize when researching a book on the world’s best road trips. I spent weeks cruising the globe’s highways, country lanes and mountain passes via Google Street View. When I reached Turkey, I noticed a long green belt running along its northern coastline and discovered a land of dense tea plantations, cliff-hugging roads, roaring rivers and wooden villages.

Curious to find out more, I convinced a friend to come on a road trip to the Fırtına valley, home to some of the region’s most spectacular scenery (as well as being its most accessible area – large swathes are serious wilderness and should only be visited with a guide).

Fog rolls over the Kaçkar mountains, which rise above the Black Sea coast. Photograph: Ali Eobanoglu/Alamy

Rize is the name of both the province and its capital city, an unassuming coastal hub. We decide to prioritise our time in deep nature, so head straight for the mountains in our hire car rather than lingering in town. As we head east towards the Fırtına valley, our route is lined by the shimmering turquoise waters of the Black Sea on one side and rolling tea plantations on the other, where the steep hillsides are dotted with workers gathering leaves into wicker baskets strapped to their backs. Rize has been Turkey’s leading tea-producing region since the 1940s. It is the country’s wettest region, but rain tends to dissipate quickly during the summer months, leaving thin wisps of mist trailing across the hilltops.

After about 20 minutes, we reach the mouth of the Fırtına River. The name translates as “stormy” and its waters crash along the rocky riverbed. The further along it we drive, the more ferocious it becomes; the valley sides loom over us, their steep slopes blanketed in dense forests (apparently home to a growing population of brown bears).

After half an hour, we reach Çamlıhemşin. The town skirts the riverbanks precipitously, cradled by towering, mossy cliffs. We wander along its main street as the sun sets, passing a few tea houses, bakeries and shops selling honey and local cheese.

Dinner is at the Çamlıhemşin cafe-restaurant on the river, where we feast on chargrilled chicken skewers, white bean stew in a rich tomato sauce, and hunks of bread. With the help of Google Translate, our waiter proudly tells us that the loaf is homemade.

A bakery in Çamlıhemşin. Photograph: Hester Underhill

After dinner, a staggering series of hairpin bends leads to our accommodation: Dudi Konağı, a towering stone mansion that clings to the valleyside. Once one of the grandest private homes in the region, it was built in the early 1900s by the Tarakçıoğlu family, who made their fortunes in Russia. Today it’s a 24-room guesthouse with restored timber panelling, carved stone fireplaces and rustic wooden furnishings. We’re ushered up to our room on the third floor, where we fall asleep to the sound of a nearby stream and the soft croaking of frogs.

The next day, we head off deeper into the valley, towards the lofty, snow-capped peaks of the Kaçkar mountains. We trace the course of the river, passing thundering waterfalls hidden within corridors of beech and chestnut trees, and stone bridges that date back to the early years of the Ottoman empire.

Our first stop is Zil castle, a 14th-century fortress that rises above the thick forest canopy. Historians believe it was constructed by the empire of Trebizond, an offshoot of the Byzantine empire that thrived along the Silk Road. For centuries, Zil castle guarded a critical mountain pass that connected inland routes with ports on the Black Sea, watching over caravans carrying spices and silks between Europe and Asia. Today, it’s a miraculously preserved masterpiece of medieval engineering, with sweeping panoramic views across the valley.

As we press on, we spot a colourful new addition to the landscape: rhododendron bushes. These plants, bursting with bright purple flowers in early summer, are responsible for one of the region’s more unusual delicacies, deli bal (or “mad honey”). The nectar of this native variety of rhododendron contains a neurotoxin that slows the heart rate, is said to pack a hallucinogenic punch and has aphrodisiac properties. The honey is among the world’s most expensive. With the land too steep and rugged for regular agriculture, beekeeping is big business here.

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The region is home to the Hemshin people, an ethnic minority who originated in Armenia but have been present in the Black Sea region since the eighth century. This relative isolation has helped keep its distinctive language, culture and traditions alive. One age-old custom is black hive beekeeping, which involves hoisting hives high into the branches of hornbeam trees, so they are out of the reach of greedy bears.

A young tea picker in Rize, which is Turkey’s leading tea-producing region. Photograph: Can Yalcin/Alamy

As we edge out of the Fırtına valley, the road turns to a rocky track and snakes upwards into the Kaçkar mountains. We head deeper into the clouds until we’re enveloped by thick mist. Our final stop, Elevit, is a small mountain hamlet, which perches prettily on a high-altitude plateau. People only live here in the summer months to tend their livestock, then descend to the towns when the snow arrives. It’s still quite early in the year and the village is eerily quiet. The mist adds to the mysterious atmosphere: shuttered wooden chalets appear ghost-like through the haze; a technicolour blanket of wildflowers has a thin, dewy sheen.

Behind the fog lie the high peaks of the Kaçkars. An extension of the Caucasus, the range extends 620 miles along Turkey’s Black Sea coast, making them more than twice as long as the Pyrenees. While it’s possible to hike here without a guide, it’s not advisable. The area isn’t properly set up for day hikers; paths through the rugged terrain aren’t marked clearly. Had we more time, we would sign ourselves up for a guided trek – offered by the likes of Montis and Two Ararat – to explore the untamed wilderness of lofty peaks, glacial lakes and mountain pastures. But with our road trip set to continue over the border into Georgia, our exploration into the Kaçkars ends in Elevit.

Much of the region has a surprisingly alpine feel. Photograph: Murat Nergiz/Alamy

We drive back to Çamlıhemşin with dusk casting an amber glow over the valley, the river below glinting like a ribbon of steel between the darkening trees. We end our day playing backgammon (or tavla) in a dimly lit, wood-panelled tea house that feels like a working men’s club. The clientele sip tea from tulip-shaped glasses as their wooden counters clack speedily across the board.

The proprietor asks us what we make of his region. “Güzel,” (beautiful) we tell him. He gives us a wide grin and nods. It’s easy to understand why this place inspires such fierce pride in those who call it home. Rize is not packaged for mass tourism, and that’s precisely what makes it worth exploring – a place that still feels wild, where ancient cultures live on, and the tea is always hot.

Accommodation was provided by Dudi Konağı (dudikonagi.com); rooms from €140 a night B&B



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We banned screens during our family trip away and the change was staggering

If your summer holiday saw screen time soar, you’re not alone. New research shows kids spend up to 67 per cent of their time on them while off school. Mum-of-two Hannah Britt reveals how cutting back made her feel like a better parent – and you can do it too

Hannah and family outside their Airbnb in the Lake District
Hannah and family outside their Airbnb in the Lake District

Our summer was full of sea, sand, sun… and screen time. K-Pop Demon Hunters, anyone? But with September now in full swing, it’s time to crack down – and fast. And I am by no means alone. In fact, the latest statistics show that, for primary-aged children, 29 per cent spend two or more hours per day on screens during the school week, but that number jumps to an eye watering 67 per cent during the holidays.

Parenting expert Kirsty Ketley explains. “School provides children with structure and built-in limits on screen use, and of course, once home, there are less hours in the day for screens, but once the holidays arrive, that structure disappears,” she says. “Parents are often juggling work, childcare, and the cost of keeping kids entertained, so screens naturally become a convenient option. On top of that, digital entertainment is designed to be engaging and hard to switch off from, so it’s no surprise children gravitate towards it when they have long stretches of free time.”

Hannah and Molly ditch the screens and play dominoes
Hannah and Molly ditch the screens and play dominoes

So what’s the issue? “It’s not that screens are inherently ‘bad’,” says Kirsty. “In fact, they can be educational, social, and even calming at times. However, when screen time dominates, it can crowd out other important activities like active play, real-world socialising, outdoor time, and rest. High levels of screen use are also linked to disrupted sleep, reduced concentration, and higher stress levels in both children and adults. The key issue isn’t the screen itself, but what’s being displaced when usage creeps up too high. It’s why having consistent boundaries around screen time is important, so that kids strike a healthy balance.”

Having done some serious Netflix parenting over the summer holidays, I decided to pull the plug – and go cold turkey when it came to screens. Indeed, experts agree the benefits of reducing screen time are huge. “Reducing screen time means more space for connection. Families who put healthy limits in place often find they talk more, laugh more, and feel less stressed,” advises Kirsty. “Sleep improves, behaviour often does too, and there’s more opportunity for shared activities – from board games to walks, to simply sitting around the table together.”

Molly has a read
Molly has a read

Looking around our home, my eyes glanced upon the TV, the iPad, various laptops, a Nintendo, the Kindle and two phones. So I booked an Airbnb, and we hopped in the car to the Lake District. And there the screen time stopped.

For our digital detox I chose Dodd’s Lee, a 17th Century farmhouse, located in the village of Dockray, near Ullswater. It was a Guest Favourite (easy to recognise as they have a special logo on the properties, and a collection of the most-loved homes on Airbnb, according to guests), and around £400 per night, with four bedrooms. It looked ideal – there was a pub at the end of the road, walks to Aira Force waterfall, Ulswater and more from the door and plenty of board games to enjoy while we were there. It was so well located, I wouldn’t even need Google maps to explore.

Once there, my partner John and I put our phones, along with Molly’s Kindle, and the TV remote in a little bag and hid them in an upstairs wardrobe. “What now”, I thought. “Can I watch Mr Bean?” asked my five-year-old, Molly. When the answer was no, she huffed. Getting out the board games, we started our digital detox by playing dominos. Then Monopoly. Molly’s grump gave way to laughter as she beat both me and her dad.

John tries to teach Molly how to play chess
John tries to teach Molly how to play chess

Then, it was time for a walk, for which we headed down the hill from Dockray to a little beach on the banks of Ullswater. I found myself reaching for my phone several times out of habit. Whatever I would have done on it, check Instagram, reply to a text, it could wait. Holding hands with Molly, we chatted all the way instead, and she told me stories, clearly happy her mummy was fully engaged. That evening came stories and songs, and when the children were in bed John and I set about talking away before we too hit the hay.

The next morning, Molly didn’t ask for her Kindle but to play snap. She beat us again. Lunch came in the form of a trip to the pub, where John tried in vain to teach us the rules to giant chess. We fell about laughing, getting our rooks mixed up with our pawns.

Molly and Poppy play in the cosy Airbnb
Molly and Poppy play in the cosy Airbnb

After three days, when checking out of our wonderfully cosy Airbnb, I almost didn’t want to get my phone out of its bag. And in fact, after just a few minutes of a Disney film in the car on the way home, Molly set her Kindle aside and asked for a family sing song. A complete digital wipeout might not be possible in the modern age in which we live. But a detox every now and again might be just what we need.

How to reduce your family’s screen time

Kirsty shares her advice:

OFFER ALTERNATIVES

For me, the most effective way isn’t to ban screens altogether, but to add in alternatives, and have rules and boundaries in place – they need to be fair and realistic, too. Children need things to do instead, whether that’s setting up playdates, encouraging outdoor activities, or giving them creative projects at home.

SCREEN-FREE ZONES

Having screen-free zones or times of day (like during meals or the hour before bed) also helps build natural boundaries. Start small and be realistic: shaving an hour off daily use by swapping it for something else is far more sustainable than trying to go cold turkey. Also, when creating boundaries for the kids, incorporate some as whole family rules – no screens at the table, after a certain time, in bedrooms, for instance.

SET AN EXAMPLE

Children copy what they see, so if we’re always scrolling, they’ll think that’s normal. Modelling balanced screen use is powerful. That might mean putting your phone away at dinner, not checking emails late into the evening, or choosing to read, cook, or go for a walk instead of defaulting to a device. Being honest with kids about your own screen habits can also help. If you explain, “I’m putting my phone down because I want to spend time with you,” it sends a strong message.



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‘I was bombarded with marriage proposals during nightmare solo trip to tourist hotspot’

A travel influencer has revealed how she was “bombarded with sudden marriage proposals” during a nightmare solo trip to a tourist hotspot and warns others how to handle unwanted attention

Pictured: Karolina Wachowicz in Morocco.
Karolina Wachowicz in Morocco.(Image: Jam Press/Karolina Wachowicz)

It should have been the holiday of a lifetime but a trip to Marrakesh in Morocco turned into an experience that was challenging and exhausting for one young woman.

Influencer Karolina Wachowicz, 35, who is originally from Poland, said she felt like a “neon sign” as she walked the streets of Morocco as a “blonde single woman” and couldn’t even cross the road or sit alone without having to fend off unwanted attention from men.

The travel lover said she was motivated to visit Morocco by fellow travel influencer Katarzyna Lawrynowic, who regularly posts content about her time in Marrakesh. But she is warning other travellers to wear appropriate clothing and develop a thick skin in order to survive.

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 Karolina Wachowicz in Morocco.
Karolina warned other travellers to wear appropriate clothing (Image: Jam Press/Karolina Wachowicz)

“As a blonde, single European woman, you are not seen as just another traveller, you become the spectacle,” Karolina, who originally comes from Krakow in Poland, told What’s The Jam. “Every glance, every comment, every offer of help is loaded with meaning you never asked for.

“Here, it’s not about seeing Morocco as a tourist, it is a daily lesson in holding your boundaries, keeping your nerve, and realising you have to rewrite the rules for every block, market, or bus stop.

“In Marrakesh, the onslaught is sharp and constant. Men make comments out loud, sometimes in French, sometimes in Arabic, as you walk by. At first, you think the compliments are harmless, maybe even flattering, but they don’t let up, and you realise their persistence is never just about curiosity.”

And she said refusing politely is rarely respected because men often push for your name, your plans and your relationship status. Sometimes, a casual ‘I have a boyfriend’ is the only answer that truly stops them. Yet the moment you let your guard down, or even just smile out of nervousness, it can be read as a signal to try harder.

“In cafes and markets, you quickly learn to focus your gaze, answer monosyllabically and keep walking. Men bombarded me with questions and compliments, even sudden proposals!”

Fully covered Moroccan women
Women are advised to cover their shoulders and legs in Morocco(Image: Jam Press/Karolina Wachowicz)

Karolina said the attention became even more intense when she left the city and travelled to small towns and rural villages. The 35-year-old said, “The attention is sometimes suffocating. Simple acts, like sitting in a café or shopping for groceries, become events.

“I couldn’t cross the street without at least one person asking for a photo or money.

“Marriage proposals were, of course, also common. Here, any visible skin or uncovered hair is read as a statement, no matter how modestly you think you are dressed. Suddenly, you realise that even a light summer dress and exposed shoulders can make you the focal point for requests, proposals, or relentless questions.”

But despite the challenges, Karolina said it’s possible to enjoy time in Morocco “if you understand just how different the social codes are”.

She added: “Morocco can challenge and exhaust you, but it will also teach you resilience, flexibility, and the importance of cross-cultural kindness, if you’re willing to look beneath the sometimes exasperating surface. The key to survival is a blend of thick skin, improvisation, humour, patience, and cultural sensitivity.”

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‘I had whirlwind 24-hour party trip to Ibiza – I was back at my desk at 7.30am the next day’

Claire De Stefano and pal did not even book a hotel for their girls holiday

Claire and Donna loved every minute of their trip
Claire and Donna loved every minute of their trip

A sun-seeking mum jetted off to Ibiza for a mere 24 hours, making it back in time for work the next day. Claire De Stefano, 52, had initially planned a longer getaway to the White Isle with her friend Donna Duncombe, 50.

However, when their schedules clashed, they opted for a whirlwind one-day trip without even booking a hotel. The duo departed the UK at 6pm on August 12 and were tucked up in their own beds by 1am on August 14, meaning they went nearly 48 hours without sleep.

Claire was back at her desk by 7:30am, telling her incredulous colleagues about her trip. The mother-of-four from Romford, East London, said: “We had wanted to go to Ibiza again this year for a few days but unfortunately our diaries didn’t match up.

“So, we decided to bite the bullet and just fit a day in. It was so nice to get away from reality and do something a little bit different rather than washing and working. I would definitely do it again. We are looking at doing more of these trips. We want to visit some of the other superclubs that we didn’t get to in our youth – when life and children got in the way.”

Claire De Stefano and Donna Duncombe decided to go on a 24-hour holiday so that they could experience the clubbing without booking a hotel
Claire De Stefano and Donna Duncombe decided to go on a 24-hour holiday so that they could experience the clubbing without booking a hotel

The friends wrapped up a full day’s work on August 12 before heading to London Stansted Airport at around 6pm for a Wetherspoon dinner. They touched down in Ibiza just after 10pm and made a beeline for a bar, before hitting the iconic nightclub Pacha where they danced the night away until 6am.

After witnessing a beautiful sunrise on the beach, they spent the day basking in the sun, having breakfast in the Old Town and taking a dip in the sea. They then jetted off from Ibiza airport to return home on August 13, ready to get back to work the following day, August 14.

Their total expenditure came to an estimated £197, which included £62 for return flights. Claire shared: “We got into the club and soaked in the atmosphere, then we danced until 6am.

“There were some sunbeds out so we chatted there for an hour while the sun rose. It was beautiful. We changed into our swimming costumes under our evening wear and spent the day on the beach. It was a lovely relaxing day.”

Claire De Stefano and Donna Duncombe in Ibiza
Claire De Stefano and Donna Duncombe in Ibiza

For their holiday, the pair packed light, carrying only their passports, a swimsuit, a change of underwear, sun cream, and a travel toothbrush in their handbags. Claire, who is employed as a safeguarding officer, revealed that her four adult children and all her colleagues thought she was bonkers, but she had a fantastic time.

The mum and her self-employed friend are already planning their next adventure, with hopes of experiencing the clubbing scene abroad again in the future. She added: “We had an amazing time. Everyone said we were crazy but sometimes you have to be a bit crazy. I need stories to tell my grandchildren eventually.

“The club was everything we had hoped it would be. It met and exceeded both our expectations, and we are eager to do it again. We are in our 50s but we felt no judgement on the dance floor. Everyone was just having a good time together.

“I got to work at 7.30am and told everyone I was in Ibiza a few hours ago. They didn’t believe me. But you have to try everything once. It was our first time doing a day trip, but it certainly won’t be the last.”

Claire and Donna did not even book a hotel
Claire and Donna did not even book a hotel

The mum also expressed her belief that more young people should embrace clubbing, which she feels is becoming something of a lost art. She believes that hitting the dance floor keeps you youthful and helps create unforgettable memories with friends.

She said: “I do enjoy going out with my friends and dancing- I always have done. I think it keeps you young. It is definitely a dying art. I have four adult children who never go out. I don’t think it is part of their make-up.

“I was clubbing in the late 80s where clubs were the place to be. Everyone used to go. That isn’t unfortunately a thing with the youngsters these days. It is a shame because we used to have great times back in the day. And we still do today!”

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‘Beautiful’ UK road trip features seven gorgeous coastal stops

If you’re looking to get the most out of the final weeks of the summer, look no further than this road trip which stops at a number of coastal towns in one of the country’s most beautiful counties

Aerial view of the town and beach of Padstow on The Camel Estuary in Cornwall, UK which is a popular vacation destination on a sunny Summer day
One couple say they’ve cracked the perfect way to explore Cornwall’s stunning coastline (stock image)(Image: Teamjackson via Getty Images)

A travel influencer has shared her ultimate guide to exploring Cornwall’s stunning coastline, featuring seven gorgeous towns along the coastal county. Char, who runs the TikTok account CJ Explores alongside her husband Cory, has mapped out the perfect week-long road trip across North Cornwall in a video that’s prompted discussion among locals and tourists alike.

The couple have dubbed their itinerary the “Cornwall road trip you have to do ONCE in your life”, featuring a different town or village for each day of the week. Starting at Boscastle, the journey winds through breathtaking locations including Tintagel and Mother Ivey’s Bay before concluding in Newquay. Day two sees the duo recommend a visit to Tintagel, followed by stops at Port Isaac and then Padstow.

The beach at Bedrutheran Steps in Cornwall
The beach at Bedrutheran Steps in Cornwall (stock image)(Image: 1111IESPDJ via Getty Images)

The adventure continues to Mother Ivey’s Bay, then Constantine Bay and Bedruthan Steps, before wrapping up at their final destination. Viewers have been quick to save the travel tips, with many gushing about Cornwall’s undeniable charm.

One follower reminisced: “I was very lucky to go to Cornwall every weekend as a child with my parents, and it is one of the most beautiful places.”

Another appeared to have already tested the route, sharing: “Just done it on my motorbike with my son. Beautiful part of the world.”

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Some suggested additional gems worth visiting, including St Michael’s Mount and Kynance Cove. However, numerous commenters have been unanimous in their response to one specific location that Char and Cory highlighted.

One forthright comment from a viewer simply stated: “Don’t come to Padstow”, a feeling that was shared by others. Another user responded: “We drove through it was the busiest place we went to last week.

“Must be such a nightmare being local, feel for you. It was a ridiculous amount of tourists.” Despite some comments on Padstow’s charm, the exasperation felt by residents is palpable.

Padstow Harbour at blue hour, Cornwall, with reflections of the boats and lights in and around the harbour.
Locals in Padstow fear the effects of overtourism on house prices (stock image)(Image: mick blakey via Getty Images)

The town’s growing appeal has sparked a housing crisis. Locals struggle to afford homes as overtourism drives up property prices or turns them into holiday lets. As of March, Rightmove reported the average house price in Padstow was nearly £700,000.

While not an isolated issue in Cornwall, Padstow faces becoming a “ghost village” during off-peak seasons according to Cornwall Live. Properties remain vacant in the colder months, owned by tourists who only use them as second homes in the warmer periods.

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