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JULIUS CAESAR may have crossed the Rubicon when he went to Rome – but my tip is to head over the River Tiber to see the Trastevere neighbourhood.

It’s the Italian capital’s more edgy, bohemian district with a warren of cobblestone streets, charming alleyways and intimate squares.

There are lively food and clothes markets, individual shops, craft beer and aperitivo bars plus great-value trattorias.

And while it’s an easy, 15-minute stroll from the city centre, there are excellent places to stay if you choose to base yourself here.

I began my visit in the tranquillity of Trastevere’s headline act — the glorious Botanical Garden of Rome (ortobotanicodiroma.it, €5).

With only a handful of visitors on a pleasant late autumn day, it felt like I was in a private sanctuary.

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Chatty parakeets flew overhead as I walked through a bamboo grove to a Zen-style Japanese garden.

I stumbled across a group watercolour lesson and was invited to join in.

Having not sketched anything for decades, I was pleasantly surprised at my naive-in-a-good-way results.

I ambled on to Trastevere’s serene side streets to browse the numerous artists and artisans’ studios.

In one, I was shown the artist’s latest works in progress, which are to be exhibited in the Vatican.

My base in Trastevere was as full of character as the soulful neighbourhood.

The 4* Trastevere Roma UNA Esperienze is in a former late 19th century palazzo and my spacious room came with a quiet elegance and a coffee machine.

I had lunch at the Vista panoramic roof terrace and bar, savouring a fine, smoky Bucatini all’Amatriciana — appropriately, a classic Roman pasta dish — that will live long in the memory.

After my afternoon of exploring, I returned to the Vista for dinner and first took in the view across Rome’s rooftops to the 266ft-high Victor Emmanuel II national monument.

It’s an entrancing sight, best experienced with an Aperol spritz or Negroni in hand.

And, like that backdrop view, my dinner of veal escalope was sheer perfection.

After dinner, sociable owls can spread their wings into a buzzing Trastevere nightlife.

There’s a choice of heady aperitivo bars, before moving on to the late-opening venues — Bar San Calisto keeps going to 1.30am every night and is a local institution.

While the area has a working-class history, there is no shortage of classic Roman architecture, from opulent palazzos to the striking Porta Settimiana, the 3rd-century AD arched entrance to the north of the neighbourhood.

All of these are flanked by shuttered, ivy-clad orange apartments.

As it was a delightful 25C on my late autumn visit, I strolled across the Tiber and found myself outside the Pantheon in no time at all.

The Trevi Fountain and Temple of Hadrian are close by, too.

UNA Esperienze has a quartet of 4H hotels in Rome, and I found myself walking by the brand’s Maison Roma Piazza di Spagna.

In contrast to the earthy magic of Trastevere, it is situated on the exclusive Via Margutta, made famous in the classic movie Roman Holiday and where La Dolce Vita director Federico Fellini had an apartment.

But here’s the real secret: when in Rome, make your home base at the UNA Trastevere hotel and experience the very best of both worlds.

Art, architecture, families, food, friends and wine in one beautiful melting pot.

You’d cross the Rubicon (and Tiber) for that any time.

READY to book your staycation for the school summer holidays?

Then, you might want to check out this list of the best and worst seaside towns across the UK.

In the new survey revealed by Which?, Bamburgh, in Northumberland, came out on top, for the sixth year running.

The towns were voted on by more than 5,300 people focusing on a range of criteria including the quality of the beaches, scenery, food and drink, accommodation, tourist attractions, shopping and value for money.

Bamburgh scored 84 per cent overall, achieving five stars for its beaches and “spectacular coastal scenery”.

Coming in second is Tynemouth, Tyne and Wear, scoring 82 per cent – with five stars for its seafront, pier and food and drink.

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Meanwhile, up in Scotland, Fife secured two places in the top 10 with St Andrews in third place, scoring 81 per cent and Crail in joint fourth place, scoring 80 per cent.

Crail tied with Aldeburgh in Suffolk also scoring 80 per cent and then rounding out the top five is Southwold, scoring 78 per cent.

On the other hand, there were a number of towns that failed to impress including Clacton-on-Sea, scoring 48 per cent.

A number of more popular seaside towns also didn’t get great scores, such as Margate (53 per cent) and Newquay (55 per cent).

Both gained only one star for peace and quiet and two stars for value for money.

When speaking of Margate, one visitor commented how the town centre is “run down”.

Another added: “Margate is quirky and not overly commercialised. It’s got some great events and places to eat and shop. It’s still a bit rough around the edges but it knows it.”

On the other hand, down in Newquay, people commented how hen and stag parties had taken over, with another person commenting: “Newquay is a brash and overly busy seaside town.

“There are better beaches and towns nearby which are quieter.”

Famous for featuring in the TV sitcom series Gavin & Stacey, Barry Island also didn’t score well, scoring around 54 per cent.

One visitor said: “Unless you are a big Gavin and Stacey fan I’d give it a miss.”

The lowest score though went to Bognor Regis, scoring 41 per cent with visitors commenting that it was “tired” and needed “major rejuvenation”.

Rory Boland, Editor of Which? Travel said: “The North East has emerged as this year’s favourite seaside spot, a reflection of its outstanding beaches and the fact that holidays here can be fantastic value for money.

“It also shows that there are special seaside towns in every corner of the UK.

“From Swanage to Plockton, Southwold to Conwy, you’ll have a great time in many of the country’s lesser-known destinations, and should save some money too.

“Whether you’re returning to a much-loved seaside town or discovering a hidden gem, there’s something for everyone.”

“DON’T go cheating!” the bartender tells me after I sloshed a bit too much vodka in the cocktail mixer.

He was right — my pisco sour ends up being more punchy than I’d planned.

I’m not sure I’ll be working as a bartender in Lima any time soon.

Thankfully the city has more than enough of them, with the Peruvian capital often named a top food and drink destination.

The place may be nicknamed Lima La Gris (from the large grey clouds that frequent the sky) but the city is certainly colourful when it comes to both gastronomy and architecture.

One of its brightest districts is the vibrant and noisy Barranco.

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Often referred to as among the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, the bohemian area is popular with surfers heading to the beach and art lovers adding to the hundreds of muralled walls.

Walking down the street is a feast for the eyes with men playing guitars outside multi-coloured houses, while cyclists zoom past with wetsuits on.

With more than 200 pieces of artwork across the neighbourhood, it feels more like an open-air art gallery.

And the city is fast making a name for itself when it comes to food, with many award-winning restaurants also found here.

One of those is Mayta, a World’s 50 Best Restaurants winner in Miraflores, made up of structured wood and concrete blocks.

While the seven-course tasting menu was tempting, I didn’t have four hours to kill, so opted for the à la carte.

I started with the fresh and zingy limey ceviche before I filled up on their take on paella with a crispy rice parcel surrounding shrimp.

For something a little more ­wallet-friendly, in the ­Miraflores neighbourhood, I found Parque Kennedy, known for its huge number of street vendors selling cheap snacks.

For around a fiver, my hands were quickly filled with herbal “emoliente” drinks that stave off hangovers, picarones (sweet doughnuts made of squash) with honey and chicharron pork sandwiches.

Peruvians love massive portions, I soon found out. And I was told that the best way to work off all the food would be to hit the waves, of course.

But with my surf skills lacking, I instead opted for a bike tour of the city, taking in the spectacular coastline, as well as the famous Love Park.

Inspired by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi, sculptor ­Víctor Delfín built a wall of tiles, surrounding the famous El Beso sculpture of couples embracing.

Peru’s huge exports of coffee and chocolate mean you can barely walk five minutes without spotting a chocolataria.

As a self-professed choc expert, I was extremely smug after one cocoa class, naming all of the regions I tasted correctly.

A few hours away, Peru’s tiny second city of Arequipa, in the shade of the Misti volcano, is even more overlooked than Lima, yet the food is just as incredible.

My favourite way to spend the morning was jogging in the main central square, watching the sunrise over the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa.

That running was preparing my body for yet more fantastic restaurants.

There was the vibey 13 Monjas (13monjas.com), with huge portions of Peruvian inspired pasta and Chica (chicha.com.pe) with yet more huge portions of fish tacos.

Yet there was one thing missing from my trip to Peru so far — and that was a cuddle with a llama.

Leaving the cosmopolitan cities, I went in search of the fluffy animals through the Colca Canyon region.

We sped through arid deserts, barely seeing a soul, bar a few locals by an abandoned train track.

Ears popped as we climbed the mountains across Lord Of The Rings-esque epic landscapes.

I was warned to expect some altitude sickness and I was certainly unsteady on my feet as we hit 4,900 metres.

It’s a few hours into my journey that I gasp as I finally see them — a traffic jam of wild llamas and alpacas.

Lazily grazing on the side of the road like oversized sheep, they seemed non-plussed as they sauntered over the road in front of us.

But just seeing them wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to get up close and personal.

Our abode for the night was in the village of Sibayo with a local family who had lived in the area for generations.

It was here that we were joined by a farmer, who excitingly told us we would be going on a llama walk.

It was only as we got up close that I realised quite how tall they were, some towering over my mere 5ft 5in height.

But my excitement never dwindled.

We walked across the beautiful river as they followed me like I was their leader.

I couldn’t resist a ruffle of their heads, with their ears cutely flipping up whenever we stopped.

Returning to our lodges, the evening was spent learning how to knit and dance.

The warm hospitality was evident throughout the stay, with free bracelets and shots of alcohol while listening to music and even a hot breakfast bag before leaving.

By the end of our stay, there were hugs all around, with our guide telling us how he always feels sad saying goodbye to tourists.

A feeling that is mutual it seems from the full guestbook of goodbyes.

I wasn’t ready to return to cold England that’s for sure – but a bag full of local coffee and alpaca socks certainly helped.