treetop

Less than two hours from Oslo airport, PAN’s sky-high forest cabins offer hot tubs, canoe trips, wildlife spotting and a lesson in slowing down.

What is the lure of a treehouse? Is it the memory of climbing trees, higher and higher into the secret world of pinecones and canopy? Or something more primordial – not just admiring nature from a distance, but becoming part of it?

In the depths of the Norwegian forests, there are many places to escape into wilderness, but few are as beguiling as PAN’s Treetop Cabins. Three futuristic prisms, eight metres up on metal frames. Up here, you’re level with the treetops, and the world falls away. They have an otherworldly, science-fiction feel, yet they’re discreet. You come upon them suddenly, before they merge secretively back among the pines.

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Less than two hours drive from Oslo airport, they stand on a hillside of Finnskogen, a vast forest nudging up against the Swedish border. These woods have an ancient feel – silent and still. It’s easy to understand Norway’s guiding philosophy of friluftsliv here – that wellbeing is found outdoors.

Sleeping in the sky

Inside, each lodge is the perfect tiny house – a pocketsize kitchen and living area at the front, the bathroom in the centre section with a spacious shower. The walls are pine-clad and it all has that Scandinavian sleekness: everything you need, nothing you don’t. On the upper platform, the double bed overlooks the triangular view.

Oh, that view. Pan is the kind of place where you can feel happy filling your time with very little. You can while away a whole afternoon curled up on the sofa, watching the birds flit between branches, and the sun peel out over the lake below. It’s fascinating in any weather. We had blue-sky sunshine, sunsets and a storm that rolled in over the horizon like slate sheets. It hit the lake and we watched from afar, cosy in our sky-high retreat. I put my phone down, opened the floor-to-ceiling window, listened to the hush of the forest and read a whole book in one sitting.

Embracing the cabin life

Meals can be as hands-on or hands-off as you choose. The cabins are stocked with essentials, but PAN can also arrange breakfast hampers and catering from local producers. We woke to a basket of fresh bread, pancakes, local cheeses and honey, and in the evening I made elk stew with juniper berries, to their neatly measured recipe.

In the simple, pared-back cabin life, cooking and eating together felt celebratory, with the panorama of forest and lake beneath us. As evening settled over the trees, we lingered over dinner by the window, watching the changing light on the water long after the plates were empty.

At ground level, we found a table dotted with tall candles in glass lanterns, to light up al fresco suppers. Off-season, you can barbecue here (not in summer, to prevent wildfires), but any time of year you can lie out on the fur-clad seats, pull up a blanket and watch a billion stars overhead.

Exploring Norway’s ancient forest

There is much to pack quiet days with. Bicycles await to pedal the wooded paths, but we loved just walking. This forest is special. Centuries ago, Finnish refugees were drawn here, bringing myths and folklore with them. The silence is immense, the lichen underfoot puffs green dust, and sometimes a strange mist hangs in the distance, as though a forest spirit has shifted its form, just as you came upon it.

There are still wolves, bears and lynx, moose, foxes and arctic hares. We saw the latter two – not the rest to my chagrin. Our host explained we wouldn’t – “They know how to disappear when they hear you coming,” she commiserated.

But the highlight for me was the ‘Room with Three Walls’ – the outdoor, wood-fired hot tub. The fourth wall is the forest, the ceiling is the sky, and sitting in the steaming water as the forest turns gold in the sunset, with a glass of something sparkling in my hand (which, heads up, I bought at the duty free in London because booze is mighty spenny over in Norway), was holiday perfection.

A river safari through the wilderness

We signed up for an evening canoe down the Fløgåa River, sharing a boat with our guide, Amund. We pushed off into the dark waters and floated quietly downstream. Along the journey, signs of beavers were everywhere – dams of muddled twigs and neat points on felled tree trunks you’d need a Black & Decker to be able to recreate, though the elusive creatures refused to materialise.

By now, we were used to the silent stillness of the Finnskogen, but on the river, with the gentle lap of the oar and the forested bank reflected in the depths, it felt closer than ever. As we approached the final bend, Amund hissed, “There. On the left,” and a fat beaver trundled down his slipway and submerged into the current with barely a ripple.

On the journey home: Norway’s famous buns and Europe’s only emerald mine

A final tip if you’re driving the route back to the airport, along the shores of Norway’s largest lake, Mjosa. There are two stops enroute, both bizarre… and unmissable.

For a sweet treat, pull into the service station at Espa (suspend your disbelief) for Norway’s most famous bakery, Bolleland. It’s packed with neon ‘I [heart] Bolleland’ merch that lends it a crazed vibe, but the chocolate and caramel buns are legendary.

Don’t scoff them in the car, head to the emerald mines – Ole Jørgen Bjørnstad Smaragdgruvene, where you can eat them on the stony lakeshore while you sift for small – yet genuine – emeralds. It’s the only such mine in Europe where you can keep anything you find. A viridescent souvenir of the forestlands.

How to book PAN’s treetop cabins

PAN’s Cabins are available from £480 per night. Breakfast and meals available at an extra cost. Book your river kayak (and other nature experiences) through Pan.

WITH its pretty timber-framed walls and stained-glass windows, even from the outside you can instantly tell The Old Inn is something special.

It’s been welcoming guests since 1614, but that doesn’t mean the hotel in the village of Crawfords-burn, Co Down, is stuck in a time warp.

Inside, it has been transformed into an oasis of modern luxury, and it has proved such a hit since it was bought by the Galgorm hotel group in 2021 that it was recently crowned the AA’s Hotel of the Year for Northern Ireland.

Now, with its stunning Treetop spa, it promises the ultimate romantic retreat – apt, because Narnia author CS Lewis chose it for his honeymoon in July 1958.

We stayed in one of the spacious junior suites, with a super-king bed and a stand-alone copper bath by the ornate bay window.

Antique furnishings maintain the 17th-century character, while the bathrooms are new and luxurious, with a marble sink and a vast rainfall shower.

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The attention to detail really makes it stand out from other 4* hotels, with lavish toiletries, fluffy robes and slippers, a GHD hairdryer, and free soft drinks in the fridge as well as a Nespresso coffee machine and minibar.

We spent most of our stay unwinding in the Treetop spa, which is without doubt the star of the show.

Hotel guests get access from noon on the day of check-in until check-out.

Overlooking the Crawfordsburn Country Park and surrounded by greenery, this outdoor haven features a heated hydrotherapy pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room.

Or you can also relax by a wood-fire stove in the cosy conservatory, taking in the forest views below, or indulge in a treatment such as a facial or massage.

But the best part is that you can order cocktails straight to the pool or your lounger.

On a Sunday morning, I was able to sweat out my multiple cocktails in the hotel’s new gym, which also offers various classes, including yoga.

As for food, the hotel’s charming 1614 Bar offers pub grub such as fish and chips and burgers.

For dinner, we headed into The Restaurant to try the a-la-carte menu.

It’s not cheap, but is excellent if you fancy splashing out.

To start, I had the white asparagus with shaved mushrooms, Irish coppa and truffled honey (£15), and for my main I had the monkfish with spring brassicas, mussels and buttermilk (£33) with a great bottle of white wine.

After dinner, we returned to the 1614 Bar for a nightcap or two with live music.

Breakfast is a continental buffet spread and guests can also order a la carte.

The hotel prides itself on its fresh food, so everything from fish to yoghurt at breakfast was local.

We then strolled through the park to Crawfordsburn beach.

A winding path takes you through woods, then the trees clear and you are on to the sweeping, sandy beach looking out over Belfast Lough.

You can see why CS Lewis chose this spot for his honeymoon – with stunning scenery on your doorstep and a warm welcome, it’s couples heaven.

THE bus swings round the hairpin bend with ease, climbing higher and higher into the clouds.

I’m grateful for the driver’s skill as the winding trip eventually takes us clear of the tree line to reveal Switzerland’s breathtaking scenery below.

The Laax Alp Nagens bus stop is a dizzying 2,263 metres above sea level — and the scenery gets more and more beautiful as we then hike along the mountains, which sit in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.

The Arena is an impressive natural geological phenomenon in the Swiss Alps, where tectonic movement has resulted in rocks up to 300million years old being pushed up above younger rock formed a mere 35 to 50million years ago.

It has been absurdly easy to get up here thanks to Switzerland’s world-class public transport.

Buses are a great way to get around but make sure you have some cash as you often have to buy a ticket on board.

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I’ve only got four days here in Laax, but that’s more than enough to get swept up in the magic of the Swiss Alps in spring.

While the snow still clings to the mountain peaks, along the valley floor below it the scenery turns from white to neon bright green, as the grass returns and trees and flowers burst into life.

Luckily, if your legs get tired on a hike, there are plenty of cable cars to get you back down to your accommodation. For me, that’s Laax’s Rocks Resort.

It’s an adventurer’s playground — ideal for families, thrill-seekers or anyone who just wants to fill their lungs with mountain air.

More a mini village than a resort, it boasts everything from the world’s longest treetop walk (1.56km) to skate parks, trampolines, basketball courts, swimming pools and more hiking and biking trails than you could ever tick off in one trip.

The hotel rooms are comfortable yet chic — and have a perfect view of the sprawling forest next door.

If you are travelling with family there’s comfortable one, two and three-bedroom apartments.

My room has the perfect view of the 30metre-drop bungee jump — and I perch myself on the window seat to read my book and watch kids and parents alike plunge off the ledge.

The room also gives me a great view of the 220-metre zipline over the skatepark and snake run.

But after a busy day of adventures through the forest, I’m starving.

Luckily, there’s nine restaurants and two coffee shops to choose from, as well as six bars and lounges.

Take your pick from Italian at the Ristorante Camino or spectacular vegetarian options at the Riders Restaurant.

From beetroot wine to local Swiss delicacies, this is a must-visit spot to chow down at.

Also on offer are Asian specialities at Ikigai, Swiss treats such as rosti potatoes at Tegia Larnags — and of course cheese fondue, at Casa Veglia.

You don’t need to look far for ways to work off all those calories though.

On a particularly gorgeous morning, we hire electric mountain bikes to explore the surrounding trails.

They snake through forests, over meadows and along ridges, each turn revealing another gasp-worthy vista.

The e-bike makes the uphill sections a breeze, while the downhills are fast and glorious.

Two hours in, we roll up to Lake Cauma — a jewel-toned lake so startlingly blue it feels almost artificial.

We refuel lakeside with a rich Toblerone mousse from Ustria La Cauma restaurant, with its terrace perched above the water.

Food, it turns out, is as much a part of the journey round these parts as the scenery. Menus are hyper-seasonal and full of heart.

And old traditions are not forgotten. As spring turns to summer, local farmers take their cows up to the high pastures, the cattle decorated with flower crowns and large bells.

And come the winter, for those who are keen on skiing and snowboarding, this resort will become the place to be — a perfect spot for spending a day on the slopes before scoffing down hot cheese fondue in the evening.

I will certainly be back.