travelled

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city, offers plenty of surprises, as I found out during a trip to the city in May

Wandering through the streets of a lesser-known European city that days earlier I knew very little about, a piece of street art featuring three grandmas wearing reflective sunglasses caught my eye.

‘Silence, please!’ was the clear instruction accompanying the mural as, full of curiosity and intrigue, I tentatively stepped inside the entrance of a colourfully-painted courtyard of apartments to take a peek.

I saw a couple of tourists grabbing phones from their coat pockets, working their way around the vibrant little snicket and snapping photos. A small but exciting place to stumble upon, it felt like something of a hidden secret.

And one I came across in Kaunas, Lithuania’s second-biggest city. It is a place that has long lived in the shadow of its postcard-pretty capital Vilnius, located an 80-minute drive away, but one full of little surprises.

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Between the wars, while Vilnius was under Polish control, Kaunas was the country’s temporary capital. In that time, it found itself producing one of Europe’s richest collections of architecture, which was recognised by UNESCO in 2023.

As I wandered through the confines of the Yard Gallery, I soon realised Kaunas was worthy of far more than just a quick stop-off. It has a creative soul I had not encountered in many other places during my travels.

The free-to-enter open-air street display was started by artist Vytenis Jakas who, having noticed some had become alienated, wanted a way to bring neighbours together and commemorate the lives of former Jewish residents.

Walls bloom with street art, with the powerful words of John Lennon’s Imagine immortalised on one, and a giant elephant and seagull stopping you in your tracks on another. There are more understated features, like mirror mosaics, stained-glass windows, and photograph memorials to past residents. It felt distinctly lived in, with cars parked outside, refuse bins and clothes lines draped around the murals.

My stop in Kaunas being fleeting, it was time to join Lithuania Travel and visit one of the country’s oldest and largest art museums, M.K. Čiurlionis National Museum of Art, devoted to the local genius.

I explored the cosmic and dreamscape-like fantasy world of the artist and composer’s sounds and images, which told the story of his more than 300 paintings and 400 musical compositions.

The Trail of Angels virtual reality experience was an unexpected pleasure. Via a headset, I found myself immersed in the paintings, swirling around on a fully-rotating chair, floating through symbolic forests. What felt gimmicky on paper beforehand proved to be unexpectedly moving and peaceful.

It is not just art, but food, which has a firm place in the city’s creative ambitions.

I took a stroll along the length of Liberty Avenue, Kaunas’ most prominent and longest pedestrian street, flanked with trees, shops and cafes, and the awe-inspiring neo-Byzantine Catholic Church of St Michael the Archangel.

In the church’s shadow is Sija, a barely five-month-old restaurant which is set to have its food featured in the Michelin Guide – despite its infancy and only having four members of staff.

Inside, I met owner and chef Rakas Vasiliauskas and partner Greta Rutkauskaite, whose vision is to celebrate exclusively Lithuanian cuisine.

So much so, even lemon, pepper and oil are omitted. I tried a trout, presented with cucumbers, kefir and purple potato. A particularly tasty dish that showcased the best of local ingredients without the typical theatrical fuss.

Elsewhere, DIA restaurant left a lasting impression with its luxurious decor, mirrored ceilings and a full-blown tree acting as a centrepiece to one table. But its food was even more memorable.

Lamb, accompanied by pea-mint puree, cuttlefish tuile, chicken jus, pea pods, baby carrots and baby potatoes, came together to create an exquisite dining experience I will not forget in a hurry.

There is a feel of history and reinvention in Kaunas, with every restored facade or repurposed courtyard offering a frequent reminder of where it has been and where it is going. It is perhaps the mural of the sunglasses-wearing grans which captures the spirit of the city most, acting as a symbol for a place which has endured, adapted and emerged with its sense of humour and style still intact.

Book it

UK flights from London Luton Airport to Kaunas with Wizz Air start at £19.99 per person.

UK couple Mike Lucas and Emily Gillingham have been travelling around New Zealand and Australia for the past four years

A British couple have revealed how they slashed £20,000 from hotel costs while travelling.

Mike Lucas, 33, and his partner Emily Gillingham, 32, have spent the last four years discovering New Zealand and Australia, barely spending anything on accommodation. To achieve this, the resourceful pair house-sat for people – occasionally for months on end – which meant they avoided paying for hotels and Airbnbs.

They utilised the platform Trusted House Sitters, a site where property and pet owners seek individuals to care for their homes and animals while they’re away. The duo, originally from Edinburgh in Scotland and Southwell, Nottinghamshire, resided in 13 properties across both nations during their initial 18-month journey and still rely on the service for weekend getaways.

Mike said: “It was a game-changer for us because when we first arrived in New Zealand, we didn’t know how long we were going to stay. It allowed us to maximise our budget and made our travels more fruitful, fun and sustainable.

“We have looked after all kinds of pets, including dogs, cats and chickens. It also made the country feel more accessible and slowed down the pace of travel. You see and do things you wouldn’t if you were to stay in a hotel.”

The pair have been house-sitting since November 2022, when they first touched down in New Zealand after leaving their well-paid positions as a client accountant and research director. They discovered the website Trusted House Sitters through Emily’s parents, who rely on the service to ensure their dog, Monty, is well cared for whenever they head away.

Mike said: “We had a strict budget and were looking at ways to save money so we could make it last as long as possible and extend our stay.”

Mike explained that they got in touch with a dog owner on the website and, as luck would have it, the couple agreed to let them stay in their two-bed detached house in Waikanae, north of Wellington, for three weeks over the Christmas period – provided they looked after their two-year-old Boxer-cross.

The keen traveller said: “How it works is you have to send a cover letter, almost like a job application saying why you would be a good fit for the house and giving a little bit of detail about yourself. The owner will then read it and reach out to you if they are interested.

“For this particular house, they asked if we could jump on a video call so they could meet us. Then the day before they left for America, we stayed over at the house with them, and they talked us through the dogs’ routine and if there was anything we needed to know about the property. And that was it, they gave us the keys, and we were left with this lovely house.”

From there, the pair ventured across the country, taking in Auckland and Tauranga — spending a remarkable three months in the beach suburb of Sumner, in Christchurch. Throughout the journey, the couple enjoyed free accommodation for 328 days and, according to Mike, this saved them roughly £20,000 compared to what they would have spent on one-bed Airbnbs over the same period.

They continue house-sitting to this day, having since relocated to Melbourne, Australia, where they rent a flat, yet still take on pet-sitting arrangements to explore the country during weekend getaways. The couple also revealed the experience helped them identify what their “ideal” home would look like, drawing small touches of inspiration from every property they stayed in.

They also make use of house-sitting when heading back to the UK to see family. Though Mike stresses that living in somebody else’s home is nothing like a hotel or Airbnb — you must treat it with “respect”.

He said: “It isn’t the same as a hotel, as it is someone’s personal living space. I have heard some horror stories from previous people we have stayed with, as I guess some people forget that boundary.

“They are putting a lot of trust in you to look after their pet and home. Luckily nothing has ever gone wrong in the houses we have stayed in – the worst we have done is break a glass, but we just told them and made sure to replace it. In the days before we leave, we always give the house a deep clean, leaving it spotless for the owner.”

When they couldn’t find a new property to move into once their stay had come to an end, Mike explained they would crash in Airbnbs, camp, or bunk down in hostels until they secured a new sit that fitted their schedule. Mike acknowledged that landing stays can be tough at times, noting that you’re up against at least three other applicants, with even stiffer competition depending on the location or the appeal of the property.

He said: “A key part is balancing timing and detail. The earlier you are to apply, the higher the chance you’ll have of securing the sit.

“However, tailoring the application to the individual is equally as important to stand out from the crowd. I couldn’t recommend it enough.

“At some of the houses we stayed at for over a month we felt we became part of the community and got to know people. We have also stayed friends with a number of the people we house-sat for and they now come to us and ask if we can come back to sit again, which is really nice.”

Looking ahead, the couple say they hope to travel around Europe, America and beyond using the platform.