Travel

10 places to stay in the UK and Europe where you can travel back in time | Hotels

EUROPE

Robert Browning’s Florence apartment

The Casa Guidi in central Florence dates from the 15th century and was divided into graceful, high-ceilinged apartments in the early 1800s. In July 1847, it was rented, initially for three months, by Elizabeth and Robert Browning – but the couple carried on living there until Elizabeth’s death in 1861. The apartment has been restored as closely as possible to the Brownings’ family home, based on a painting Robert commissioned, family letters and an inventory of their son Pen’s belongings. The furnishings include the works of art the couple collected around Europe, the original drawing room mirror and a copy of the brocade curtains described by Elizabeth.
Three nights from £870, sleeps five, landmarktrust.org.uk

An interwar hotel in Kraków

Photograph: Golero/Getty Images

Puro, a small Polish group of hotels, reopened its branch in Kraków’s old town in 2021 after a renovation by a local design office. The revamp was intended to capture the spirit of bygone Kraków, especially the cafes and restaurants that proliferated between the first and second world wars. The aesthetic is also inspired by two legendary midcentury hotels, Cracovia and Forum, and Kino Kijów, a cinema that is still open today. There is lots of pale oak panelling, natural stone, handmade glass and ceramics, and local art. Rooms have retro radios and Bauhaus-inspired furniture. Trams rattling past and chatter from cafes in the nearby square complete the illusion.
Doubles from €95 B&B, purohotel.pl

A 1970s hotel in Sweden

Photograph: Fru Vintage/West Sweden.com

Billengehus opened in 1970 on the top of a hill in Skövde, western Sweden. The entrepreneur Arne Sandberg and his wife Maja wanted to build a hotel that combined relaxation and exercise: as well as a swimming pool and tennis courts, it had football pitches, trails for running, cycling and cross-country skiing, and a ski slope and lift. The hotel was recently refurbished and now has a new spa; it still offers hiking, biking and skiing packages. The 70s style has been preserved (lots of brown velvet!), and some rooms have record players and disco balls for a private boogie – to Abba, of course.
Doubles from £110 B&B, billingehus.com

A medieval palazzo in Sicily

Photograph: Riley Clements

Palazzo Previtera, in Linguaglossa on the slopes of Mount Etna, tells the story of 500 years of Sicilian history. It was built in 1649 and has been restored by descendants of the original owners. There is a 12-room museum, a library of rare books, including limited editions by Thomas Aquinas and John Milton, and a restaurant under the old arches. Four rooms and two cottages cater to overnight guests – three of the rooms are in the oldest part of the palazzo. They combine ornate painted ceilings, original floor tiles and antique furniture with designs inspired by different people and periods: the composer Vincenzo Bellini, 1930s Italian art deco, contemporary cinema. Members of the Previtera family are on hand to give guests guided tours.
Doubles from about €130 room-only, palazzoprevitera.com

A swinging 60s hotel in Prague

Photograph: David Peltán

The four-star Vintage Design Sax in central Prague is full of retro furniture classics by designers including Verner Panton, Luigi Colani, Eero Saarinen, and Charles and Ray Eames. It has 25 rooms (some have a view of Prague Castle) with original pieces and accessories, psychedelic wallpaper and orange, 60s-style bedding. The hotel’s central atrium is something of an art gallery, showcasing statement pendant lights, chairs and mirrors. It is part of LH Hotels, a small Czech group of seven stylish but affordable hotels.
Doubles from €78 B&B, hotelsax.cz

UK

Georgian cottages in County Durham

Step back into Georgian times with a stay at two recently opened cottages at the Beamish Museum, an open-air living history museum 10 miles south of Newcastle. Potter’s Cottage and Drover’s Rest have been created from original farm buildings near the museum’s Georgian-style pub, the Drovers Tavern. The cottages were curated by the museum’s staff and showcase period furniture and artworks from its collection – plus concealed mod cons. They feature stone floors, open fires, wooden beams, four-poster beds and free-standing baths; the gardens have views of a recreated Georgian-era area. Stays include admission to the museum to learn more about the period (usually £33pp).
From £357 for two nights (two-night minimum stay), each cottage sleeps two, beamish.org.uk

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A Tudor house in Conwy

Gwydir Castle, a fortified Tudor manor house near Llanrwst, was once owned by the Wynn family, descendants of the kings of Gwynedd. The current owners have been restoring it to its former glory for more than 20 years. Although it remains a private house, not a hotel, there are two rooms for paying guests who want to live like royalty: the King’s Room and the Duke of Beaufort’s Chamber have four-poster beds, antiques, en suites and garden views. New arrivals are greeted by peacocks parading on the lawns and welcomed with tea and shortbread. Breakfast is by a log fire in the panelled parlour and all public areas of the castle and four-hectare gardens are open to guests (entry usually £12pp).
Doubles from £140 B&B, gwydircastle.co.uk

A cool Britannia home in Dorset

Photograph: Si Jubb

Feeling nostalgic for the 1990s? Relive the heady days of Cool Britannia at Little Nan’s holiday home in Weymouth. The four-storey, three-bedroom house is a 90s time capsule and a temple to all things kitsch and maximalist. It’s more Spice Girls than Britpop: expect a riot of bright colours, neon lights and clashing prints, with naff ornaments and cuddly toys galore. From the lifesize cutout of Peter Andre to the toilet roll doll, no detail has been overlooked. The house has sea views and is minutes from the harbour and beach. The owner also runs Little Nan’s Bar in Deptford, south-east London (both named after his late grandmother Jojo).
From £521 a night sleeping up to eight or £626 a night sleeping 10, littlenans.co.uk

A Victorian apartment inside a medieval Kent gem

Photograph: John Miller

Guests can time-travel between two periods during a stay at the Mayor’s Parlour in Dover. The three-bedroom suite was designed by William Burges in the gothic revival style of the 19th century, and it is inside the Maison Dieu, Dover’s 800-year-old town hall. The mayor’s private office is now the dining room, with the original round table and padded chairs with lion-headed arms; the magistrates’ retiring room has become the kitchen; and the record-keeping rooms upstairs are the bedrooms and bathrooms. There are decorative tiles featuring parrots and butterflies, elaborate coffered ceilings, hooded chimney breasts – and even an original urinal. The Victorian property has its own access but guests can also explore the rest of the medieval Maison Dieu, which opened to the public after a £10.5m restoration in May.
From £547 for two nights, sleeps six, landmarktrust.org.uk

A wartime airfield turned B&B in Norfolk

Photograph: Steve Adams/Control Tower

The Control Tower opened in 1943 to guide takeoffs and landings of second world war bombers. Today, the modernist building is a peaceful vegetarian B&B. There are three double rooms in the original signals room, boardroom and controller’s restroom, plus a separate suite with a living room and patio doors on to the garden. Each room is individually designed around statement pieces of art deco furniture, with original artworks and photographs. Guests also have use of the shared living room, which was once the meteorological office. There is no TV, but plenty of 40s-style entertainment: books, puzzles, games and strolls around the garden.
Doubles from £140 B&B, controltowernorfolk.uk

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The best 9 UK Christmas markets named – with 4 places completely overlooked

Which? magazine has named the top nine Christmas market cities in the UK, heaping praise on certain festive fairs and completely ignoring large parts of the country

The nine best Christmas markets in the UK have been named, with large stretches of the country totally missing out.

As the nights draw in, the temperature drops, and the desire to wrap your hands around a steaming mug of hot chocolate reaches breaking point, there’s little more fun to be had than heading to a Christmas market.

Unfortunately, your access to a top-quality festive fair very much depends on where you live in the UK, if Which?’s annual ranking of the best Christmas market cities is to be believed. Those living in Wales, the West Midlands, the East Midlands, and London live in top-quality Christmas market deserts. While there is one of the top nine in Scotland, if you live in the large part of the country that isn’t in Edinburgh, then you’re out of luck.

Here are the best of the best, according to Which?

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Bath: More than 200 wooden chalets line the cobblestone streets of Bath during one of the UK’s biggest and best-known Christmas markets, which marks its 25th anniversary this year. With Bath Abbey and the Roman Baths as a picturesque backdrop, stallholders sell handmade wooden furniture, garden sculptures, Bristolian knitwear and indie fragrances. Seasonal treats are also a highlight, including festive bakes from Flapjackery and the Pudding Wagon. You can continue the celebrations at nearby Royal Victoria Park with a turn on the ice rink or a winter stroll along the city’s famous Royal Crescent.

Chester: This year, Chester’s market has grown to include 80 stalls around the Victorian Gothic town hall and medieval cathedral, offering handcrafted candles, upcycled cutlery, artisan liqueurs and more. Independent traders can also be found in the double-deck shopping arcades known as the Rows, which date back to the 13th century and remain one of the city’s most distinctive features. Across the city, Roman ruins, ancient gatehouses, Tudor buildings and Georgian and Victorian architecture add to Chester’s enduring appeal.

Durham: Durham’s Christmas market is a quiet and peaceful event, made up of around 30 stalls spilling out of the Market Hall and into nearby flagstone streets. Visitors can browse locally made hot sauce, reworked vintage clothing, sweet treats and handmade decorations. A crafts and gifts marquee with more than 120 extra stalls is also available, although it requires paid entry. After sampling the festive food, you can climb the 325 steps of Durham Cathedral for a rewarding view.

Winchester: Set within the grounds of the stunning Winchester Cathedral, the city’s Christmas market features wooden chalets offering silk scarves, wooden toys, pet portraits and handmade homeware. Local choirs and musicians provide the soundtrack as you shop. Seasonal food such as artisan cheese, a traditional hog roast and handmade scotch eggs adds extra indulgence. Winchester’s independent shops are also worth exploring, and a visit to the cathedral itself is highly recommended.

Wells: This market takes place on just one Saturday in mid-December, so timing is key. More than 100 stalls fill Bishops Palace Green and Wells Market Place on Saturday 6 December, making it a worthwhile festive outing. The medieval city has plenty to offer for a weekend escape, including a wide selection of independent shops and eateries.

Liverpool: Liverpool’s Christmas market sits in front of the fairy-lit St George’s Hall, with stalls styled as gingerbread houses and grottos. Visitors say it is less traditional than some markets, with fewer artisan crafts and mince pies and more 80s Christmas pop, fairground rides and comforting street food such as roast ham baps and mac and cheese. Beyond the market, Liverpool offers plenty to see, including the museums at Albert Dock, the Walker Art Gallery and the city’s two cathedrals.

Edinburgh: One of the UK’s most striking cities becomes even more enchanting at Christmas. Wooden chalets line East Princes Street, selling Yuletide gifts and cosy stocking fillers. A mini funfair features a helter-skelter, a swing carousel that nearly brushes the Gothic Scott Monument, and a big wheel with views of Edinburgh’s medieval castle and Arthur’s Seat. After browsing, you can explore the winter gardens, go ice skating or wander the New Town for more shopping in a city famous for its Hogmanay celebrations.

York: Known as St Nicholas Fair, York’s Christmas Festival has been a seasonal favourite for more than 30 years and is ideal for finding gifts. Alpine chalets decorated with twinkling lights fill Parliament Street and St Sampson’s Square, where shoppers can pick up art prints and Christmas decorations. Which? praises the market’s strong focus on accessibility, with initiatives for visitors with limited mobility and quiet shopping times from 10am to 12pm for those who prefer a music-free experience. The city’s rich history offers even more to explore, including York Minster and the Shambles, a medieval street lined with half-timbered houses, independent shops and a market.

Belfast: Now in its 21st year, Belfast’s Christmas market fills the grounds of the City Hall and is a favourite with food lovers. Visitors can sample flavours from around the world, including ostrich, wild boar and crocodile burgers, along with classic sausages, beer and speciality cheeses. With more than 100 traders, there is plenty to explore, along with a funfair for children. Additional food options can be found at St George’s Market, which is packed with local producers on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, or you can visit Cathedral Square for bars, restaurants and galleries.

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Magical market town surrounded by mountains and islands voted best place to live

The town is known for being very clean and was recently voted the best place to live in the country. It is surrounded by mountains and islands, and has some great pubs

The UK boasts countless charming villages and towns. Indeed, if you’re seeking cobbled streets tucked into rolling countryside, clifftop whitewashed settlements, or picture-perfect cottages dotting a hillside, then you’re in one of the finest locations.

However, if you’re prepared to venture just a touch further, you can uncover towns of arguably Britain-surpassing calibre. Westport in County Mayo, Ireland, ranks amongst the absolute finest. Reaching there is straightforward enough, with Ryanair, British Airways, and Aer Lingus all operating flights to Knock, the nearest airport to Westport.

From there, it’s an hour’s journey west to the stretch of coastline where the designated Heritage Town is situated. En route, you’ll meander through increasingly striking landscapes as the Atlantic approaches and the peaks grow loftier.

Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s “Holy Mountain,” stands five miles from the town; its cone-shaped summit towering above Clew Bay. The mountain serves as a popular pilgrimage destination and tourist draw. On the final Sunday of July, faithful worshippers undertake a demanding ascent to the peak, where pilgrims visit a chapel, celebrate Mass, and frequently perform acts of penance, such as walking barefoot or on their knees.

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Author avatarMilo Boyd

If that strikes you as rather too demanding for holiday pursuits, then worry not. There’s abundant entertainment within the town itself to occupy you. Westport features a Georgian town centre, and stone bridges connect the tree-lined walkway along the banks of the Carrowbeg River.

The standout feature about the place is that it’s spotless, and the quality of life is excellent. Westport claimed the Irish Tidy Towns Competition three times in 2001, 2006, and 2008, and in 2012 it secured the Best Place to Live in Ireland competition organised by The Irish Times.

As you’d anticipate, Westport isn’t lacking in pubs. Establishments like Matt Molloy’s, MacBride’s, Porter House, and JJ O’Malley’s are all excellent options and likely to host traditional bands during the evening.

When the weather’s pleasant, you can stroll along the Quay and then continue to The Point. “This is a fabulous place to meet locals on a nice day as they swim in the shallow waters of Clew Bay. I sat at a table and laughed as they chatted with each other, calling to friends who were not in the water. It was a kick to be a fly on the wall and witness friends and neighbours giving each other a hard time and laughing and gossiping,” writes the blogger Wander Your Way.

Numerous visitors to Westport for a holiday choose to discover areas beyond the town, venturing into the breathtaking magnificence of the surrounding landscape. There’s a well-known phrase in Clew Bay that there’s “an island for every day of the year.”

Actually, there are nearer to 120 named islands, with countless more smaller, submerged limestone drumlins emerging when the tide recedes. The largest of the genuine islands is Clare, whose magnificent outline emerges on the horizon like an enormous humpback whale.

You can catch the brief ferry journey from Roonagh Pier and spend the day enjoying beautiful walks and views. Clare is a big spot for birders, who come to spot kittiwakes, fulmars, peregrines, guillemots, and, cutest of all the birds, puffins.

If you’re willing to travel a little further out to sea, you’ll reach Inishturk, a “little piece of paradise,” according to the area’s tourist board. Highlights include the sandy beaches of Trá na nÚan and Curraun, Ireland’s only offshore-island natural lagoon, sea cliffs, and rare wild flora.

It is difficult to find a bad word said or written about Westport, which is widely considered to combine the best natural Ireland has to offer with a welcoming culture and streets that rarely get too busy.

“I am a huge fan of Westport and County Mayo, maybe because my wife’s cousin owns the Clew Bay Hotel and Madden’s Restaurant. I highly recommend both. Renting bikes in Westport and riding the Great Western Greenway is awesome, love it. It is a great little town with good restaurants and pubs,” one enthusiast recently wrote on Reddit.

Another added: “I second Westport! My wife and I had our honeymoon there (years ago, and in Clew Bay Hotel too! ) and frequently return. The people in the restaurants, bars, and shops are all so welcoming. If you don’t like the pubs (and the music), there are many interesting and easily accessible walks and cycle paths nearby. Can’t wait to return!”

A third wrote: “It really does seem magical out there, lots of outdoor activities and seems less busy with tourists.”

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From coast to country and even trackside

Collage of a thatched cottage, an indoor pool, a garden with a lake and bridge, and a beach with boats and cliffs.

Ladram Cottage, Devon

Sub-Editor Milcah Fajardo and her mates found a chic coastal hideout in the south west.

Hike the scenic coastal path from Ladram Bay to SidmouthCredit: Jeremy Flint
This stunning cottage is nestled in a five-star caravan parkCredit: supplied by PR
Spend the night in one of the three nautical-style bedroomsCredit: M J Heritage

The Pad

This gorgeous chocolate-box cottage with clifftop ocean views and a hot tub in the garden is nestled in a five-star caravan park.

The inside is styled with every wash of blue, while arch windows flood the space with natural light. Sink into the spacious living room, with its toasty wood-burner, before bedding down in the three nautical-style bedrooms.

Two waterfall showers, under-floor heating and Bramley toiletries also add to the home comforts.

Plus, the chippy is just a few strides away – tuck into scampi and chips, £9.25, and a gluggable curry sauce, £2.20 – while at Pebbles Restaurant, flavour-stacked buttermilk chicken burgers with bacon, cheese, hot honey and chips, £17.50, are served with panoramic sea views.

There’s entertainment galore on site, too, with an art studio, adventure golf, arcade and indoor pool. But the jewel is the private pebble beach with paddleboards to hire from £8.

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Explore

Hike the scenic coastal path from Ladram Bay to Sidmouth. The incline is steep, but the view is worth it.

You’ll also spot Jacob’s Ladder — built in 1870, it’s a gorgeous pic-stop to take in the Jurassic Coast.

After just over an hour’s amble, you’ll reach Sidmouth town, with its striking red cliffs and cobbled, bunting-lined high street.

Seek out beach kiosk Kapes for a sweet reward of soft serve dipped in chocolate, from £3.50, or a silky cappuccino, £3.50 (Kapes.uk), as well as Things I Like for locally made souvenirs (Thingsilike.uk).

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After more of a thrill? Book circuits at Raceworld Indoor Karting, 20 minutes’ drive away. Experiences cost from £39.50 per person (Raceworld-karting.co.uk).

Refuel

For fresh seafood, Myca’s is just the plaice! Fried whitebait, £9, is a must, as are the spicy Devon crab tacos, £22, and massive moules marinière, £23 (Mycassidmouth.co.uk).

At nearby gastro-pub The Anchor Inn, you’ll be charmed by the friendly bar staff, local pints and mouth-watering specials, including slow-braised curried lamb shank with pilau rice, £19.95 (Theanchorinn-sidmouth.co.uk).

Over in Otterton village, The King’s Arms is home to a suntrap garden. Pair a Scrabble contest with the confit pork belly and roast trimmings, £14 – it’s what Sundays are made for (Kingsarmsotterton.co.uk).

Don’t Miss

There’s more than just local produce at Greendale Farm Shop. You can’t miss the zoo, with everything from donkeys and pigs to emus and alpacas, before filling up on fresh milkshakes and gelato, from £1.70, at The Udder Stuff shack (Greendale.com).

BOOK IT

Stays at Ladram Cottage, sleeping up to six people, cost from £274 per night (Ladrambay.co.uk).

The Bradley Hare, Wiltshire

Fashion Stylist Emily Regan and boyfriend Harry escaped to a rural foodie paradise.

Stourhead House is a must-visit with incredible landscaped groundsCredit: Alamy Stock Photo
See the mischievous monkeys at Longleat Safari ParkCredit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
At dinner, softly lit nooks offer romance aplentyCredit: River House Frome/ Instagram

The Pad

Set in the charming village of Maiden Bradley, you’ll find a picture-perfect crackling fire, armchairs to curl up in and oodles of old-school character at this 19th-century coaching inn.

Rooms have antique furniture and beautifully tiled bathrooms, most with rain showers.

At dinner, softly lit nooks offer romance aplenty. We savoured grilled monkfish, £25, with heritage carrots, £5, and you can’t go wrong with signature tipple Hare On The Rocks – a mix of grapefruit liqueur, rosso, Campari and prosecco, £14.

After seasonal fruits and pastries, the full English won’t disappoint come morning either.

Explore

For a dose of history and incredible landscaped grounds, Stourhead House is a must-visit, just 10 minutes’ drive away.

Take the Behind Closed Doors Tour for a glimpse into the estate’s rich heritage. Entry costs £22 for non-members (National-trust.org.uk).

Equally close is Longleat Safari Park, which boasts a plethora of animals and mischievous monkeys in the drive-through experience. Entry costs £44.95 per adult (Longleat.co.uk).

Meanwhile, celeb fave Frome lies 15 minutes’ drive away, with its medieval shopping streets filled with independents, such as vintage toy shop Honey On The Hill (Honeyonthehill.co.uk).

There’s also a brilliant market on Saturdays selling foodie treats and gorgeous gifts.

Refuel

While away an evening at The Beckford Arms, 20 minutes’ drive away.

Start with mulled wine, £5, in the oak bar before tucking into creamy cauliflower soup, £8.50, and the succulent Beckford burger with bacon and cheese, £16.50 (Beckfordarms.com).

While in Frome, seek out cute cafe The River House for caramel iced lattes, £5, and coffee and walnut muffins, £4 (Riverhousefrome.co.uk).

Later, dig into al dente fazzoletti with rich beef shin ragu, £14, at Little Walcot (Littlewalcot.com). Bellissimo!

Don’t Miss

Lilley’s Cider Shop has 33 unique flavours, all crafted locally. Sampling is encouraged and the refreshing mango cider, £3 per bottle, gets our vote (Lilleyscider.co.uk).

A very giftable getaway

Lifestyle Editor Catherine Bennion-Pedley made a pit stop at Escapade Silverstone, Northamptonshire.

Catherine Bennion-Pedley takes in the view trackside at Escapade SilverstoneCredit: Supplied by Catherine Bennion-Pedley
Hit the super-chic 15m swimming poolCredit: Supplied by PR
Enjoy panoramic views of the action at Escapade’s eatery The GalleryCredit: Supplied by PR

I’ve never dreamed of waking up beside the iconic Silverstone racetrack, but this chic collection of private residences – which sleep between two and eight – is pretty damn cool.

And both my husband Andy and four-year-old Raffy think all their Christmases have come at once when we arrive.

There’s a James Bond feel to the exterior, and with burnt-orange and olive-green soft furnishings, brass accessories and matte-black bathroom fittings, the style vibes continue inside, too.

If you pick a trackside pad and stay over a racing weekend, you can even watch drivers tackling Maggots and Becketts corners from your balcony, before you hit the super-chic, 15m swimming pool and Finnish sauna (the latter also serves up track views).

You’ll find eye-catching modern art – think diamanté-studded helmets and enormous animal sculptures made from engine parts at every turn – and more panoramic views of the action at Escapade’s eatery The Gallery, where dishes such as yellowfin tuna steak with kimchi slaw, chimichurri and sweet potato fries, £36, hit the spot.

A Barrel-Side cocktail of scotch, angostura bitters, demerara sugar and orange oil, £17, also slips down nicely, while the kids’ breaded salmon, veg and chips, £12, and fruit salad with peach sorbet, £5, gets a thumbs-up, too.

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And as you’ll have smashed the present-giving for the petrolheads in your life, gift yourself the divine honey-baked French toast with bacon, berries, oat crumble and chantilly, £13, for brekkie the next morning.

Stays for two at Escapade Silverstone cost from £110 per night (Escapade.silverstone.co.uk).

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I stayed at the beautiful estate which is the UK’s most family friendly place

MY fearless six-year-old son, Alex, giggled as a large Asian brown owl landed on his gloved arm, just inches away from his face.

Neeka is so used to mingling with guests who visit the birds of prey aviary that she happily sat there for a few seconds, slowly twisting her neck, taking in the view.

Swinton Estate has an incredible 20,000 acres of sprawling landCredit: Supplied
Jane’s son Alex with a large Asian brown owlCredit: supplied
Alex and Layla roaming the hallsCredit: supplied

And who can blame her, when the view is as stunning as this?

We were staying on the stunning Swinton Estate, set in the Yorkshire Dales within an incredible 20,000 acres of sprawling land made up of villages, farms and moorland.

At the centre of this is the Downton Abbey-style, ivy-clad ancestral stately home of Lord and Lady Masham which has been turned into a luxury hotel with 42 suites and bedrooms.

Despite its grandeur, I discovered it to be one of the most down to earth — and definitely the most child-friendly — places I’ve ever stayed in the UK.

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COME INN

The pretty English market town home to one of the weirdest hotels in the UK

What’s more, visitors are on the doorstep of explorable market towns, as well as just a 10-minute drive from historic Jervaulx Abbey (one of Yorkshire’s most beautiful historic sites) and 20 minutes from Lightwater Valley Family Adventure Park, home to mini rollercoasters, giant swings and a crazy golf course.

That’s if you can find the time to leave the estate.

Swinton has even more activities than overcrowded tourist traps such as Center Parcs — with comparable prices.

During our short stay, we enjoyed treasure hunts, children’s cookery courses, fishing, archery, escape rooms and cycling.

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There are complimentary meditation classes, tea tasting, clay pigeon shooting, history tours, movie nights and a birds of prey show.

Falconer Mandy explained that most of the owls, hawks and falcons on site were hand reared.

They even go on “walks” through the estate, high above your head.

And what a great place for a stroll, it is. Our dog Layla certainly agreed.

Unlike many hotels, Layla wasn’t just tolerated here, she was adored.

She walked alongside us as we explored some of the 63 miles of footpaths as well as the play area, wild swimming lake, shop and the Country Club.

She even plodded into the reception with me while I booked an amazing £50 back, neck and shoulder massage.

Although, I did leave her with the others when it came to enjoying my treatment.

This meant I could take full advantage of the amenities, which include thermal suites, a heavenly relaxation room and two pools, both of which have select adults-only times so the grown-ups can properly de-stress.

OLD-WORLD CHARM

Even those with kids can get their downtime thanks to the on-site babysitting service, available from £15 an hour.

The Estate itself is a charming mix of contemporary design blended with grand antiques and historical paintings of the family that once owned it.

This old-world charm continues into the bedrooms and suites too.

Our room featured high ceilings and large low windows where Alex and Layla sat together watching the deer roam freely in the fields.

Every tiny detail has been considered here.

There were coats and umbrellas to borrow, dog biscuits, a teddy bear on the bed and soft, squishy towels and dressing gowns.

While Alex was grateful for the bowl of apples and pile of shortbread biscuits left on the side, I was more appreciative of the smart coffee machine and the Estate’s home-made sloe whisky.

Enjoy rest and relaxation in the spaCredit: Supplied

Whisky is just one of many things that comes from the grounds.

Pretty much everything from vegetables and meat to herbs and fruit does, too.

I am a sucker for a good brekkie and thanks to the outstanding estate sausages, this was undoubtedly my favourite meal of the stay.

A freshly-cooked plate of breakfast goodies also helped to ease my slightly sore head after the excellent mixologists rustled me up one too many spicy margaritas the night before.

You don’t need to be an overnight guest to visit the Estate.

Those popping in during the winter months can experience a new winter light trail which will lead them through a sparkling woodland and around the pretty lakes — tickets are from £7.50 per child, while those under five go free.

If you do fancy checking in for the evening, however, now is the time to book.

On selected dates this winter, you can bag a suite with breakfast and a bottle of house wine for £275 in total.

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I am from Yorkshire originally, but I don’t think I’ve ever actually received such a Yorkshire welcome as I did here.

Even Neeka the owl was happy to see us.

The hotel’s grand interiorCredit: Supplied

GO: SWINTON ESTATE

STAYING THERE: The Red Hot Autumn package costs from £275 per night, including breakfast, a bottle of house wine in the room, spa access from 3pm on day of arrival until 11am on day of check out.

Dogs cost an additional £30 per dog, per night and a child’s bed costs an additional £50 per child, per night.

See swintonestate.com.

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The dreamy English staycation with infinity pools, pic ‘n’ mix pantries and new spa gardens

A ROLLING mist was hugging the Somerset Levels beneath a crisp autumn sun as I opened the curtains and stepped out on to my balcony.

We had arrived in the dark the night before, to a welcome reception of hot chocolate and toasted marshmallows by a roaring fire pit at the Windmill Retreat Spa & Estate in Bridgwater.

Woman in a swimsuit in a spa pool with water jets.
Enjoy a dip at the Elements suiteCredit: Supplied
Outdoor patio of a suite at the Windmill Retreat and Spa with two wicker chairs and a glass table.
You can enjoy breakfast on your balconyCredit: Supplied

We had been impressed by the state-of-the-art outdoor hot tub, cold plunge and private barrel sauna in the newly-built Avanto Spa Garden, for the exclusive use of six new Elements suites.

But waking up to these views – and catching a glimpse of the larger spa below – we knew we were somewhere extra special.

Rested from a good night’s sleep in the Thyme suite – with its king-size bed, and lounge with complimentary handcrafted gin infused with herbs from the garden – we headed down to the Levels Country Kitchen.

Guests can choose from a continental breakfast on their balcony, or a hot breakfast and coffee in the Kitchen.

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It was followed by a morning of yoga and meditation in the Wellness Dome, which has been built at the top of the site, with views over the local villages.

Suitably relaxed, we went for a stroll around the estate, picking up a hand-made necklace from the shop before returning to the cafe – where guests get ten per cent off.

There we had lunch of French onion soup and hot honey goat’s cheese and walnut salad.

The extensive seasonal menu includes a selection of sandwiches, salads and quiches as well as an all-day brunch and burgers.

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As the afternoon rolled in, it was time to experience the main Windmill spa, where sessions start from £35 per person.

It is open to just 12 people at a time, so it never feels overcrowded.

We started in the main hydrotherapy infinity pool overlooking another beautiful garden, before venturing outside to the hot tub with a glass of ice-cold prosecco.

A steam and sauna followed, then we reclined on the warm stone beds with an iced towel to cool off, before treating ourselves to an express facial (from £43) in one of the five treatment rooms.

Back in our suite we helped ourselves to pick ’n’ mix from the pantry, alongside a herbal tea and a slice of home-made Victoria sponge cake – baked freshly each day – before heading back out to the Avanto Spa Garden for sunset by the fire pit with another round of marshmallows and lashings of hot chocolate.

Hearty breakfast

After washing off the day under the rainforest shower and using the spa’s home-made toiletries, it only felt right to get into our robes to enjoy a delicious charcuterie board – delivered to our suite – and a bottle of red wine in bed with Strictly on the TV.

For those wanting something more substantial, the highly-recommended George Inn is just a 15-minute walk away, or you can order in a pizza from the local takeaway.

Lights out by 10pm, we opened the skylight above our bed to look at the stars before drifting off for another sensational night’s sleep.

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The next morning, after another hearty breakfast – this time a sausage sandwich – we handed back our suite keys with heavy (but relaxed) hearts, before making use of the spa garden for one final time and packing up a lump of cake for the road.

  • From £197.50 per person based on two sharing.

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The secluded paradise island in Europe with ‘endless beaches’ is just an hour from the mainland

LOCATED in the Baltic Sea is a crowd-free island with outdoor music festivals and ancient forests – and we bet you’ve never heard of it.

Hiiumaa in Estonia is an island home to several historic lighthouses and sprawling beaches.

Hiiumaa is Estonia’s second largest island and is less than an hour from the mainlandCredit: Getty
The island is also home to a number of historic lighthousesCredit: Getty

It is Estonia’s second largest island, yet is home to less than 10,000 people.

But this led to the island, along with other West Estonia islands, joining the UNESCO biosphere programme area dubbed ‘Man and Biosphere, which means that the locals have lived sustainably alongside nature for hundreds of years.

And most of the time, the island is completely in the dark unless the moon and stars are glowing – as a result it also has no noise or light pollution.

Many people who travel to the island love it for its peace, including soothing sauna and walks in the forest.

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Naturally, being an island, the destination also has “endless beaches” according to Hiiumaa.ee, such as Tõrvanina, Luidja and Ristna.

Ristna, in particular, is loved by surfers thanks to having the biggest waves in the Baltic Sea.

This spot is also where you will find on of the island’s historic lighthouses.

Ristna Lighthouse’s tower was completed in France at the workshop of Gustave Eiffel – the same person responsible for the Eiffel Tower.

Then it was brought across to Hiiumaa in pieces and then assembled to watch over the sea and ships in the region.

The lighthouse is still operational today, but is open to visitors during the summer.

Nearby is also Kõpu lighthouse, which is one of the oldest working lighthouses in the world.

Visitors can climb to the top of the lighthouse and see across the coastline.

If you happen to visit the island during the summer months, you can also explore The Lavender Farm, which is the northmost lavender farm in the world.

And rather unusually, it is located on the edge of a meteorite crater.

Visitors heading to the farm can see 20,000 lavender plants and the products produced using them, such as lavender jam, lavender spice and lavender micellar water.

For a longer walk in nature, then visitors can head to the ancient Kõpu Nature Reserve, which is located on the oldest part of the island.

The area has many rare plants and bird species.

The island also hosts a number of festivals throughout the year including the Ice Fish Festival in February which involves a number of winter-related activities on the ice and summer music festivals of jazz, folk and club music.

And it is known for have “endless beaches”Credit: Getty
In addition to “endless beaches”, the island also has ancient forestsCredit: Alamy

When it comes to food options, local dishes often include fish or lamb.

One top spot is IIUmeekk, which is located inside a quaint redhouse and overlooks a harbour.

Inside, dish options include sea trout with edamame beans, parsley and salted egg yolk or slow cooked porky belly, with tomato kimchi and polenta.

Make sure to check out their desserts as well, such as gingerbread tiramisu.

As for somewhere to stay, there are hotels scattered across the entire island.

For example, for £75 per night you could head to Kassari Holiday Resort which features bubble baths on the hotel’s roof terrace, access Kassari beach and family-friendly rooms.

Alternatively, you could head to Utoopia No. 9 for £70 a night.

The 19-room hotel is sat on Kirikulahe Bay and is inside a historic manor’s vodka kitchen.

You can get to the island by flying to Tallinn then hopping on another flight to the islandCredit: Getty

The best way to get to Hiiumaa is by flying to the capital of Estonia – Tallinn.

Return flights from London in November cost from £37 and the flight takes under three hours.

From Tallinn you can either hop on another flight to Kärdla Airport, which takes 30 minutes.

Then you can jump on the ferry to Hiiumaa, which takes less than an hour.

Alternatively, you can hop on a coach from Tallinn, which takes just under four hours before catching the ferry.

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Also in Estonia is a seaside city nicknamed the ‘summer capital’ by locals – with huge sandy beach and the sea hits 33C.

Plus, there is a tiny island in Estonia with white sandy beaches that’s the most child-friendly holiday destination in the world.

Or you can get a coach and then a ferry to the islandCredit: Alamy

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Downey’s Space Center breaks ground on museum expansion

When I broke into journalism years ago as a fledgling Whittier-based high school sports reporter, one of my favorite side hobbies was asking locals what made their city famous.

Downey was always an interesting test case.

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Some said Downey’s claim to fame is the oldest standing McDonalds, or the Stonewood Mall, with some students boasting the rivalry between Downey and Warren high schools. Some have also cited the title of the “Mexican Beverly Hills,” which I and colleague Gustavo Arellano have always considered more appropriate for Whittier.

What wasn’t mentioned enough about Downey, particularly among the high school-aged students I spoke with, was the city’s ties to the Space Shuttle program. It was somewhat remarkable given the city’s “Home of the Apollo” nickname.

Downey’s reputation, especially among its younger residents, may reset soon thanks to a groundbreaking this Monday to announce the latest upgrade to the Columbia Memorial Space Center, a space museum that opened in 2008.

Benjamin Dickow, the center‘s president and executive director, spoke with The Times about what to expect Monday and beyond.

What’s happening Monday?

Astronaut Garrett Reisman, former Rockwell International and Boeing employees and area dignitaries will take part in a groundbreaking for an about 40,000-square-foot expansion to the existing museum.

The museum’s centerpiece will be a 122-foot-long, 35-foot-tall Downey-made space shuttle mock-up named the “Inspiration,” which is not available yet for public display.

The event begins at 10 a.m., rain or shine, and is located at 12400 Columbia Way in Downey.

For more information, check out https://www.columbiaspacescience.org/

This is a rendering of the completed front entrance of the Columbia Memorial Space Center in Downey.

A rendering of the completed front entrance of the museum.

(Nadia Gonzalez, on behalf of the Columbia Memorial Space Center)

Space Center changes and expansion

Dickow said the center was in the middle of completing the first of three phases, to be finished before the L.A. Olympics.

“Once the major construction really gets going, it’s about an 18-month process,” he said, “but if something happens with the shuttle, it’s going to add some time.”

Part of the first phase began in October 2024, when the partially-covered wood and plastic model was paraded down Bellflower Boulevard from a city maintenance yard to a temporary housing unit.

The expansion, known as the Downey Space Shuttle Exhibit and Education Building, would include a new two-story, 29,000-square-foot space shuttle museum, event courtyard, STEM building and courtyard, children’s outdoor classroom, pavilion, lawn and other amenities.

The space shuttle mock-up is also undergoing a “process of rehab and refurbishment,” according to Dickow, but is in “generally great shape.”

“The main work is getting it ready for the public, where visitors will be able to enter and get a sense of what it’s like inside a space shuttle,” Dickow said.

Astronauts would typically access the flight deck, mid-deck and crew compartment through a hatch, according to Dickow.

According to renderings, guests will instead enter through a much more accessible stairwell that puts visitors inside a cargo bay.

This is a rendering of the space shuttle mock-up, dubbed "Inspiration, in the center of the museum expansion.

A rendering of the space shuttle mock-up, dubbed “Inspiration,” at its place in the center of the museum expansion.

(Nadia Gonzalez, on behalf of the Columbia Memorial Space Center)

What is the mock-up and what’s its tie to Downey?

The shuttle mock-up’s history with Downey spans decades.

North American Rockwell International, now part of Boeing, built the prototype in 1972 at its Downey facility. The space shuttle became the world’s first reusable winged orbiting spaceship.

In total, 12,000 workers developed and manufactured the shuttle at the program’s peak on a sprawling 120-acre campus.

From April 12, 1981, through July 21, 2011, NASA fleets of shuttles flew 135 missions and helped build the International Space Station.

One of those shuttles — Endeavour — was hauled into the middle of its future home, the Samuel Oschin Air and Space Center at Exposition Park, in January 2024.

That museum is also expected to be open before the Olympics.

“This is going to be something that the L.A. area will be able to show off to people from around the world and I want to make sure we’re a part of that,” Dickow said. “Downey and Southeast L.A. sometimes don’t get a lot of the spotlight and this is something that we’ll be able to put out there.”

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Aerial view of Skyline Pitch, soccer complex located atop a parking structure at the Americana at Brand.

(Robert Gauthier/Los Angeles Times)

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How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to [email protected]. Check our top stories, topics and the latest articles on latimes.com.

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Solo female backpacker takes overnight bus in Cambodia and gets awkward surprise

A solo female backpacker boarded a sleeper bus in Cambodia only to be greeted with an awkward surprise. She shared details about the uncomfortable situation online

An Australian backpacker was left baffled during a recent journey on a sleeper bus in Cambodia when she discovered an awkward surprise waiting for her as she boarded the bus.

Budget travellers often opt for overnight bus and train journeys as they’re typically more affordable than daytime travel whilst providing accommodation for the night at no additional cost. But one solo backpack traveller was forced to question just how far she’d go to save a few quid when she realised she’d have to share a tiny double bed with a complete stranger during her recent overnight bus trip in Cambodia.

Eden Kelly, 26, from Australia turned to Instagram to document the moment she climbed aboard a bus in the South Asian nation, only to find an unexpected bedmate already settled in the bed they were meant to share.

“10.5 hrs on a sleeper bus being paired with a total stranger in a SMALL double bed,” she penned in her post’s caption.

“Literally that’s what you share with someone,” Eden explained at the beginning of her video, displaying the cramped double beds in question. “And because I’m travelling solo, I share with a random [person]. Don’t know what gender, don’t know who they are.”

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The following clip showed Eden revealing a man already lying in the bed, enthusiastically waving hello to the camera.

Eden was then filmed having climbed into the narrow bed alongside the stranger, sitting upright whilst he remained lying down. Eden described the situation as ‘one of the most awkward’ she’d ever experienced, laughing nervously at her predicament.

She noticed a British couple she’d met earlier on her travels were nearby, so she quickly moved to chat with them, hoping to escape the discomfort of sharing a bed with a stranger.

Returning to her bed, she discovered that her unexpected bedfellow had requested a change of beds, leaving Eden alone and somewhat disappointed.

“I’m offended, a little bit sad, but it’s fine because now I get a whole bed to myself,” Eden shared with her viewers.

Viewers were quick to share their thoughts in the comments section, with many questioning why the man from the British couple hadn’t offered to swap beds with Eden, seeing she was clearly uncomfortable.

“Why didn’t you stay with your female friend and your male friend go with a stranger?” one viewer queried.

In response, Eden explained: “Hi all, I met them (the British couple) on a tour 12 hours before getting the bus. I might’ve ended up being a girlfriend snatcher. They did not AT ALL need to offer to swap beds as I was pretty much a stranger to them too!!! Xx”.

Another viewer chimed in: “I would’ve booked 2 spots, ain’t NO WAY I’d share an overnight bus and a bed with a stranger.”

Yet, another individual countered: “If someone came to the spot next to me constantly recording, including putting me on their video. I wouldn’t feel great about that, glad he could be more comfortable somewhere else.”



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I visited the African capital that looks more like Santorini

Collage of images showing ancient ruins, coastal town, and a modern hotel with a pool in Tunisia.

WINDING my way through narrow streets, the smell of jasmine and mint tea fills the air as I pass craftsmen, locals doing their shopping and an abundance of cats.

It would have been easy to think I was in the souks of Marrakech, but I’m in Tunis, the capital of Tunisia.

Visit the enchanting ruins of CarthageCredit: Daniel Michener
Tui’s breathtaking hotel in HammametCredit: Unknown
Soak in the sun at the seaside town of Sidi Bou SaidCredit: Alamy Stock Photo

While its Medina is not as chaotic as its Moroccan counterpart, the historic streets bustle with locals selling their wares as tourists like me squeeze through.

From traditional clothing to jewellery, perfume to sweet treats, there’s any amount of treasures to be found just as long as you’re prepared to haggle.

The Medina was built around the big mosque — nicknamed the Olive Tree Mosque due to the trees there in the 8th century ­— but it is also home to 100 smaller mosques.

While Tunisia is an Islamic country, its history and influences are vast — including Arab, Andalucian, Turkish and Berber — and are visible to see as you take in the colourful arched doorways, former palaces and humble homes.

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On a day trip from my hotel, I learned about the rich culture of Tunis and the ancient ruins of Carthage, whose most famous son Hannibal (of elephants fame) became one of history’s most celebrated generals and took on the might of the Roman Empire in the Second Punic War.

I also visted the town of Sidi Bou Said, which couldn’t be more different from the capital, despite being just a short drive away.

It could easily be mistaken for Mykonos or Santorini in Greece thanks to its pretty white buildings with their bright blue doors and windows, many with bougainvillea climbing up and creating a canopy above them.

With stunning views across the Mediterranean Sea and the Gulf of Tunis, the town has cobbled streets and a history of inspiring world-famous artists, and it’s now home to numerous galleries.

This charming and relaxed outpost is a place tourists are bound to appreciate after the hustle and bustle of the Medina.

Thankfully I also had the option of returning to my hotel — TUI Blue Palm Beach in Hammamet — to rest and recharge.

Around an hour’s drive south of Tunis, the all-inclusive hotel, which had a full refurbishment in 2024, is right on the beach.

With gardens filled with palm trees, it’s a great place to relax if all you want to do is sunbathe and swim in one of the two pools. Temperatures are still a toasty mid-20s in November and December.

It also has a large spa with four massage rooms as well as a traditional hammam, steam room and an indoor pool. It was pure bliss after a long day exploring.

But if history is your thing, then a visit to the Roman archaeological site of Oudhna is a must.

Traditional cookery class

Founded at the end of the 1st century, it is one of the largest and most important sites in Tunisia, and the Capitol is one of the largest temples in North Africa.

Visitors can also step inside the Roman amphitheatre, which had space for 16,000 spectators in its heyday and also admire the impressive Roman aqueduct that runs through the valley.

Local tour companies are also an option, with Sawa Taste of Tunisia organising more one-of-a-kind experiences for visitors.

I took part in a traditional cookery class at Villa Ma-Amoura, a stunning renovated property in the Cap Bon region.

During the class, our group made a Tunisian brunch of Mlawi — a traditional flat bread — and shakshuka, a tasty dish with tomatoes, onions, peppers, egg and spices. Delicious.

As with its culture, Tunisian food is inspired by different countries including Spain, France and Italy.

The ancient Oudhna, which dates back to Roman timesCredit: Alamy Stock Photo
An array of spices on sale in the bustling marketCredit: Getty Images

Couscous is a popular dish, with either fish or lamb, and sweet versions are also available.

That’s one thing I liked about the hotel’s buffet, it offered a good selection of local dishes each day as well as cuisines from other countries.

If you don’t want to go too far from the hotel so you’re back in time for the various buffet hours, but do want to explore a bit of the area, Hammamet is perfect.

The hotel is in the north of the town, which has become one of the country’s most popular seaside resorts, and a short taxi ride will bring you to its Medina.

Significantly smaller than the one in Tunis, it is still an impressive sight thanks to its 13th century Spanish fortress, which is on the water’s edge.

Reaching the top and heading round the fortress walls offers you views across the turquoise waters one way, and the white washed buildings the other.

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Meanwhile back on street-level, you can do a spot of shopping, enjoy a mint tea in a waterfront cafe or play spot the cat as you wander around the alleyways, and trust me, there are a lot of cute kitties to count!

As we enter the depths of winter, my sunny break at the TUI Blue Palm Beach was just the shot of Vitamin D I needed and the perfect mix of relaxation and adventure as we ventured out to explore Tunisia’s rich history and culture.

GO: TUNISIA

GETTING THERE: TUI Airways flies year-round direct to Hammamet from Birmingham, Cardiff, East Midlands, Glasgow, Gatwick, Manchester and Newcastle. There are also summer season routes from Luton and Stansted.

STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the 4* TUI Blue Palm Beach Hammamet is from £718pp including flights from Gatwick on May 8, 2026, 23kg hold luggage and transfers.

See tui.com.

OUT AND ABOUT: Day trip to Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and Tunis Medina with lunch is from £70pp. See tui.co.uk.

MORE INFO: See discovertunisia.com.

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Fairytale city with direct £20 flights from UK named cheapest for Christmas market break

Nothing says Christmas like a festive market packed with inspiring gifts and seasonal treats, and what better way to enhance your experience than an affordable European getaway to marvel at the magic

Wandering around a Christmas market with the aroma of spiced mulled wine and wooden cabins stacked with unique gifts is part of what makes the festive season so magical. And there’s one in Europe, where it’s been dubbed the cheapest for a winter getaway.

There is a catalogue of European countries offering some of the most spectacular Christmas markets, set within their enchanting towns with mountain backdrops that could easily resemble something out of a Hallmark movie. Nevertheless, some of these locations can come with a hefty price tag as costs are bumped up during the festive season, but that doesn’t mean we need to sacrifice our European winter wonderland.

One European destination that offers the magic of Christmas at a bargain rate is the capital of Latvia, Riga, with direct flights starting from just £20. The city, renowned for its pedestrian-only medieval Old Town and Art Nouveau architecture, offers everything you could wish for in a festive winter break.

The biggest appeal during this time of year is their charming and traditional Riga Christmas Market in Dome Square, packed with stalls and a thriving food scene with wintery street-food dishes and Latvian cuisine. Warming mulled wines are also available, along with festive cocktails, while visitors browse the stalls of local Latvian artisans.

And it might be one of the best places for some Christmas shopping inspiration, with a selection of handcrafted gifts such as beeswax candles, gingerbread, socks, wool gloves, and creative kits to create wreaths, wall decor and acrylic dishes. Adding to the magic of the Riga Christmas Market, which runs from 28 November to 4 January , will be music from a DJ every Friday, choirs and music ensembles performing on Saturdays and folk music on Sundays.

The city, considered the ‘Art Nouveau capital of Europe’, is nothing short of captivating with its charming, colourful homes decorating the streets and its lively cultural scene. What’s more, it’s filled with shops and cosy restaurants for a traditional taste of Latvia, and its bustling Livu Square, boasting bars and nightclubs.

Another hugely appealing factor about this European city is its affordability. The annual Post Office Christmas Markets Barometer found that Riga is one of the most affordable European destinations for a two-night weekend Christmas market experience, compared to Copenhagen and Vienna, which have been ranked as some of the most expensive.

The Post Office revealed how much you’re likely to spend in Riga during a two-night break for two during the Christmas market season, and it’s certainly good value for money. They revealed the following prices:

  • Four cups of coffee from a cafe or bar = £11.49
  • Two three-course meals for two (including a bottle of wine) = £132.89
  • Two return bus/train transfers from the airport to the city centre = £7.18
  • Four glasses of mulled wine, punch or Glühwein at the Christmas market £14.37
  • Four pieces of cake/gingerbread/stollen at Christmas market £12.57

Additionally, the Post Office found that a two-night B&B stay in Riga and direct flights or Eurostar for two would cost a total of £377.00. With everything included, this weekend getaway for two in Riga would cost £555.50 in total, or £277.75 per person.

This is in stark contrast to Copenhagen in Denmark, which was estimated to set two people back a whopping £1,056.55 for the exact same amenities as above. Or £926.41 for the same two-night trip to Vienna in Austria.

Direct return weekend flights from London Stansted to Riga start from around £87 per person, while you can snap up a mid-week return flight from around £45. Meanwhile, you can grab a flight from Leeds to Riga for as little as £20, or a return for around £42.

Additionally, direct flights from Manchester start from around £25, or £45 for a return flight. You can also fly from the East Midlands Airport (EMA), near Nottingham, from £22 to Riga, or spend around £45 on a direct return.

You can check the best flights on the Skyscanner website here.

Laura Plunkett, head of Travel Money at Post Office, said: “A short break to one of Europe’s colourful Christmas Markets is an attractive holiday option at this time of year. However, sterling’s drop in value is an important factor for travellers to consider before booking a trip, as it varies between currencies. The pound’s fall against the euro is smaller than against other European currencies – five per cent compared with 10.6 per cent against the Hungarian forint and 10.9 per cent against the Swedish kronor.

“The cost of flights and accommodation will also have a significant impact on overall costs so it is doubly important for holidaymakers planning a trip to do their homework to factor in how sterling’s value, flight and hotel capacity and meal costs will affect overall costs. Budget-conscious travellers stand to save hundreds of pounds if they choose carefully.”

Do you have a travel story to share? Email [email protected]

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Turkish resort nicknamed ‘paradise on Earth’ is getting more flights from the UK and it’s still 23C

An image collage containing 2 images, Image 1 shows Antalya beach with mountains, turquoise sea, and sparse green trees, Image 2 shows Corendon Airlines Airbus A320 aircraft approaching for landing in Leipzig, Germany

WE might be heading into winter, but looking ahead to a summer getaway for 2026 doesn’t hurt.

One airline in particular is doing exactly that and has announced that it plans to add more flights from the UK to one very popular Turkish resort.

Antalya is known for its pretty beaches and year-round warm weatherCredit: Alamy
Corendon Airlines is upping its flights to Antalya for next summerCredit: Alamy

Corendon Airlines has announced that it plans to extend lots of its summer services next year.

One of these routes from the UK heads to the Turkish resort of Antalya which is known for its family-friendly hotels and waterparks.

During the next summer season there will be daily flights to Antalya from Stansted Airport.

Matthew Carpenter, Corendon Airlines UK Country Manager said: “For 2026 we’re doubling down on the routes that have performed well for us – for example, we’ve had two flights a week to Antalya from Stansted and this will be increasing to five flights a week in the shoulder seasons and daily flights in peak season.”

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There will also be multiple weekly flights from Gatwick, Birmingham, Glasgow, Manchester and Newcastle.

Antalya sits on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey and has been nicknamed as ‘paradise on Earth‘ thanks to its beautiful beaches, mountain scenery and great weather.

In the summer months, Antalya has average highs of 33C – and it still has daily highs of 23C in November this week.

Thanks to this, Antalya is incredibly popular with Brits, around 1.5 million British tourists visited Antalya between January and October 2024.

Most read in Beach holidays

To make it even better, the average flight time from the UK is around four and a half hours.

There are plenty of great beaches around the coast like Lara Beach, known for its fine sand and luxury resorts.

The Turkish resort is known for having plenty of family-friendly hotelsCredit: Alamy

Other popular beaches include Konyaaltı Beach, which has a long pebble and sand coastline.

Patara Beach is one of Turkey‘s longest beaches, and there’s also Kaputaş Beach which is small cove between the towns of Kaş and Kalkan.

Being such a family-friendly destination, there are plenty of huge hotels with on-site waterparks, kids clubs, activities, and beach access.

One writer visited the Regnum Carya Golf and Spa which has a full-size football pitch, a golf course, seven pools and a waterpark.

Stacey Solomon even stayed at the new sister hotel called Regnum The Crown this summer which has a Blue Flag beach and unique ice fountain.

This summer, another writer took a visit to the Titanic Deluxe Lara in Antalya, the hotel’s design was inspired by the fateful Titanic ship.

Corendon Airlines is also expanding routs from the UK to CreteCredit: Alamy

And another destination that airline hopes to expand to is Heraklion, the capital of Crete.

Corendon will increase its Heraklion capacity by 20 per cent as the popularity of the city grows for Brits.

The island is known for its beautiful beaches, as well as nightlife, historical sites like the Palace of Knossos.

If you fancy booking, Corendon Airlines has also extended its reservation system to be able to make bookings 700 days ahead of the trip.

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Turkey’s ‘best kept secret’ is a quiet seaside village that’s right by Antalya…

Just 90 minutes away from Antalya is the seaside village of Cirali.

It’s found on a quiet sea valley, surrounded by mountains, crystal-clear waters and sandy beaches.

The village was called “one of Turkey‘s best-kept secrets” in an article in the Sunday Telegraph.

Despite not being far from Kemer and Antalya, only a few Brits seem to holiday in Cirali.

Because of its protected status as a nesting site for loggerhead turtles, the seaside village doesn’t have huge all-inclusive resorts or large hotel chains.

The beach, which is a mixture of shingle and sand, is its main attraction. While metal cages mark the turtle nests, there is still plenty of space for holidaymakers.

Other facilities at the beach include several restaurants that serve a range of grilled fish and rustic stews.

Away from the beach, other activities include yoga classes, cycling routes and walking routes.

Here’s more on where Brits should visit in Turkey from a Turkish flight attendant.

Plus, check out the luxurious new 5* all-suite hotel is jewel of Turkey’s Turquoise coast, with stunning sky pool, 22 restaurants & 30 bars.

Corendon Airlines will add new flights to Antalya for next summerCredit: Alamy

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‘I stayed at New York’s new ‘hipster hotel’ – it’s already loved by celebs and I see why’

This New York hotel may be only three years old, but it has already made a name for itself as the hipster haven of the Lower East Side. It’s a celebrity favourite and after spending two nights there, I can see exactly why.

While girls’ trips are all about fun activities, chaotic nights out and days lounging on the beach, topping up your tan, or browsing shopping streets across the world, having a good base to rest your head after a long day of gallivanting has never been more important.

That’s why, on my most recent trip to New York, I made sure my best friend and I treated ourselves to a luxurious stay at the Nine Orchard hotel in Chinatown, just one subway stop away from Brooklyn, for a stay that will keep us rejuvenated between each busy day.

Online, the Nine Orchard hotel looks like an upgraded home away from home, with cosy furnishings, speakers in rooms, Brooklyn style windows perfect for people watching and tiled bathrooms you would only see on a Pinterest board. In person, it gave no less.

Upon checking in, my friend and I counted our lucky stars. We were warmly greeted in true New York fashion (no matter what people say, in my experience, the New Yorkers are far friendlier than your average Londoner, sorry!) and told us our stay included a £115 room tab to spend on the goodies left in our minibar, and a free breakfast at the connected Corner Bar restaurant which served a plate of the best French Toast I’ve ever had.

Every detail, from the speakers in the room which play a selection of calm and soothing jazz to your own music via Bluetooth, to the three showers to choose from in the bathroom that’s bigger than my UK bedroom.

Choice was the luxury we were awarded at Nine Orchard, and it’s no wonder celebrities enjoy the hotel too, having stayed during the CFDA Fashion Awards, we saw our fair share of stars ducking out of the hotel reception and bundled into Black SUVs one evening.

We also had our choice of lounge areas to relax in come evening, one room which had a grand fireplace, ideal for a late night reading session or the Swan room, an elegant space for a cocktail with a vaulted ceiling, luxurious booths, and pink Tennessee marble walls.

The Swan Room, with its vaulted ceiling, is a nod to the hotel building’s former use.

The Nine Orchard hotel was once a bank, which in some way adds to the opulent, old-world setting of the place. It’s a landmark of the iconic Lower East Side, having been awarded its status in 2009, and offered a view of the downtown skyline that would make any traveller want to emigrate in a heartbeat.

Nine Orchard may have opened its doors only in 2022, but it has quickly become Downtown New York’s go-to hipster hideaway, so much so that it earned a spot on Expedia’s 2026 Hotels of the Year list for its character and cultural edge.

Whether you’re planning a stylish weekend with friends or a romantic escape, this is a stay I’d recommend without hesitation.

Prices start from from £594.

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Europe’s best value Christmas Market destinations in 2025 revealed

ON the hunt for a bargain festive getaway? Forget the traditional European spots — as this year Vilnius is the place to head.

New research has revealed the capital of Lithuania is the most wallet-friendly destination for a Christmas market break, with low-cost accommodation plus ginger bread and mulled wine galore.

A getaway in Lithuania sets holidaymakers back significantly less than a short break in any other European destinationCredit: Getty
Vilnius in Lithuania came out on top in the Post Office’s annual Christmas Markets Barometer reportCredit: Getty
Vilnius in Lithuania is the cheapest city in Europe for accommodation and travel

According to the Post Office’s annual Christmas Markets Barometer report, a two-night getaway in the historic city will set holidaymakers back significantly less than a short break in any other European destination.

The study looked at the cost of six basic holiday items in 15 countries that are popular for a festive break — to calculate where travellers would get the most bang for their buck in 2025.

These holiday items included B&B accommodation, return flights or Eurostar travel, coffees, and three-course dinners for two with wine.

It found the total cost of all of these essentials in Vilnius came to £508.94, with travel and accommodation being the leading cause for its affordability.

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The costing is dramatically less here than it would be in other destinations.

The study found that the city has not been affected by inflation in terms of holiday costs, with prices 0.4 per cent lower than they were in last year’s Christmas Markets Barometer.

In second place on the barometer is Riga in Latvia, which has been shown to be eight per cent more expensive than Vilnius overall, although comparatively general items, such as ginger bread or stollen at the market and a three-course meal for two, cost less.

Laura Plunkett, Head of Travel Money at Post Office, said: “Sterling’s drop in value is an important factor for travellers to consider before booking a trip because this varies between currencies.

“The pound’s fall against the euro is smaller than against other European currencies — five per cent compared with 10.6 per cent against the Hungarian forint and 10.9 per cent against the krona in Sweden.”

If it is mulled wine you have got your eyes on, this year’s research suggests that Bratislava in Slovakia is the best place to get enjoy it without splashing the cash.

This destination came in third place overall but had the most affordable tipples, with four glasses of mulled wine priced at £10.77, more than £7 less than it would cost in Vilnius.

Prices for all the holiday items had risen in Bratislava, in comparison to the previous year, with flights and accommodation soaring by 12.9 per cent, while meals, drinks and airport transfers have increased 8.5 per cent from 2024.

Poland has been revealed as one of the most affordable countries overall for a festive mini-break, with three cities making it into the top ten on the budget barometer.

Bratislava in Slovakia topped the survey for the most affordable mulled wine in European citiesCredit: Getty
Four glasses of mulled wine would set you back just £10.77 in Bratislava

Gdansk, Warsaw and Krakow came in fourth, fifth and seventh place respectively with total holiday costs of £585.85, £588.97 and £674.17.

Despite being the most expensive of the Polish cities in general, Krakow is definitely the best place to head if you plan to load up on cake, stollen or gingerbread at the markets.

Here, it costs £10.56 on average for four portions of these sweet treats, which is less than half of what it would cost you in Warsaw (£22).

This still doesn’t compare to Stockholm, however, where visitors heading to the Christmas markets can get samples of these goodies for free.

At the other end of the scale, Copenhagen in Denmark was the priciest of all 15 destinations in the charts, with the total cost of all holiday items coming to a staggering £1,055.92 — more than double that of the cheapest spot, Vilnius.

Austrian capital Vienna was the second most expensive spot overall. However, the barometer shows that costs have fallen by 2.4 per cent since last year.

Laura Plunkett added: “Away from the Advent markets, there are tempting opportunities to shop for Christmas gift items.

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But we advise holidaymakers to think carefully before using a credit or debit card to make payments as they are likely to end up paying some extra non-sterling transaction charges.

“Instead, consider loading spending money on to a pre-paid card such as the Post Office Travel Money Card, which is widely accepted and does not incur these transaction charges.”

Warsaw in Poland is one of three Polish cities inside the top seven in the Post Office surveyCredit: Getty

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UK airline folds cancelling all flights immediately and leaving passengers stranded

The airline’s website told passengers ‘We deeply regret the inconvenience that this will bring to your travel plans’

Blue Islands, the Channel Islands-based airline, has ceased operations and grounded all flights. The carrier, which employed around 100 staff, had been running services to various destinations across the British Isles and beyond for two decades.

This marks the second regional airline to collapse in less than three weeks, after Eastern Airways’ cessation of operations on 28 October. The Jersey-based operator announced on Friday it had stopped trading and cancelled all bookings.

Blue Islands, operating a fleet of five ATR-72 aircraft, had its headquarters in Guernsey but chiefly linked Jersey with airports in England, including Bristol, Exeter and Southampton. From Guernsey, the airline ran flights to Southampton and an inter-island service to Jersey.

The airline’s website tells passengers: “We regret to inform you that Blue Islands has suspended trading effective on 14 November 2025. All future flights operated by Blue Islands have been cancelled. Please do not travel to the airport unless you have made alternative travel arrangements. We deeply regret the inconvenience that this will bring to your travel plans.”

Thousands of passengers who have advance bookings with the carrier are urged to contact their bank or payment card provider if they booked directly. Blue Islands further stated: “For bookings made through our codeshare partner Aurigny but travelling on a Blue Islands flight, please contact Aurigny directly – some flights may still be operating. For bookings made through a travel agent or holiday company, please contact the company through whom you booked for advice and guidance.”

The Jersey government provided Blue Islands with £8.5m in funding, with a report in August 2025 showing that £7m remained unpaid.

Elaine Millar, Jersey’s minister for Treasury and Resources, voiced her dismay: “I am saddened by the announcement that Blue Islands has suspended operations, and my immediate thoughts are with the people whose jobs have been affected and the passengers whose travel will be disrupted.”

She confirmed that “For those employees based in Jersey, government support is ready and available.” She also stressed the vital nature of air links for the island and provided reassurance that backup measures were already prepared to quickly restore connections.

“Government is working with an alternative airline to ensure that Jersey has reliable and sustainable air links for the long term.” she added.

Aurigny and Loganair have confirmed they are adding additional services to their timetables to assist Blue Islands passengers. Loganair announced it was launching services from Jersey to Guernsey, Exeter, Bristol and Southampton alongside Guernsey to Southampton from Sunday, whilst Aurigny has introduced flights for the Southampton to Guernsey and Guernsey to Jersey routes “initially until Wednesday”.

Both carriers confirmed special fares were being offered on the services to help passengers who needed to travel on any of the impacted routes.

A Loganair statement said: “We understand this will be a worrying time for those hoping to travel to and from Jersey and in response we’re starting operations from Sunday 16 November.”

An Aurigny spokesperson said the airline was “deeply saddened” about Blue Islands ceasing trading.

“Following the announcement that Blue Islands has entered administration, Aurigny is taking immediate action to assist Blue Islands customers across the Channel Islands,” the spokesperson added.

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The UK’s oldest garden centre is home to a Christmas wonderland parents are raving about

GARDEN centres are one of the quaintest places to visit on a weekend, and the oldest one in the UK dates back 70 years.

But it isn’t all about plants and afternoon tea – as it even holds festivals and epic Christmas events.

Stewarts has three garden centres around the UKCredit: Instagram
There will be huge Christmas displays and a new Winter WonderlandCredit: Instagram

Stewarts has three garden centres around the UK; Stewarts Christchurch, Stewarts Abbey in Fareham and Stewarts Broomhill in Wimborne which is its oldest.

The business‘s founder, Edward Stewart, was inspired to create the garden centre model after seeing them in America and is credited with bringing the concept to the UK.

The beginning of the business was in 1742 when the family began its plant nursery in Dundee.

It wasn’t until later on in 1859 that the family business moved down to Dorset.

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Stewarts Broomhill, which is the oldest of the three sites, first opened in 1955.

It’s not just your basic plants; it sells outdoor garden furniture, homeware, gifts, gardening tools, grow your own materials, and the likes of bird baths and insect houses.

They hold seasonal events too, like the upcoming Santa’s Winter Wonderland, starting on Saturday, November 22.

Families can wander through the wintry scene, check out the elves’ workshops, and Rudolph’s stable.

For the very first time, after meeting Santa, kids can explore the secret toy store and pick out a gift.

There are photo opportunities too from taking a ride in a Christmas campervan, to becoming a gingerbread man, and and elf.

The chain holds events throughout the year about how to care for plantsCredit: Instagram

Tickets to meet Santa and his elves at the Broomhill Garden Centre are £19.50 for children between 7 months and 12 years old.

Tickets for babies (0-6 months old) and adults are £3.50 each.

Each garden centre is also offering Winter Wonderland tickets for SEN sessions which will have a calmer atmosphere.

On Tripadvisor, one parent wrote: “It’s always a pleasure to visit at any time of year but at Christmas the most amazing spectacular is on hand when Santa Claus arrives exciting the youngsters of our family.”

Another added: “We went to visit Father Christmas today. It was excellent for the whole family. The Grotto was beautiful, snow was brilliant and the lights were bright and pretty. My little girl loved it.”

Stewarts will open its Winter Wonderland in late NovemberCredit: instagram/@stewartsgardencentres

At certain garden centres, events are held throughout the year too.

Stewarts Broomhill Garden Centre has held events like the Primrose Festival Nursery Open Day – which demonstrates how to grow Primroses – and you got a cream tea included.

Meanwhile, the Stewarts garden centre in Christchurch, Dorset, held its own Grill Fest over the summer holiday.

Over a weekend it held barbecue demonstrations – with plenty to eat of course, live music and expert tips on how to do alfresco cooking.

There are other expert talks on how to grow trees, rewild your garden, wildlife gardening and planting bulbs properly.

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Here’s one garden centre which is one of the fanciest in England…

Deputy Travel Editor Kara Godfrey spent her childhood at one of the biggest and fanciest garden centres in the UK…

It might not sound like the most thrilling destination for kids, but I spent my childhood exploring one of the UK’s fanciest garden centres.

Growing up in the Cotswolds, it meant my local one was the Burford Garden Centre.

It’s been open since 1975 and is still family-owned and run.

Across the 21,000sqm estate is more than just a garden centre (although that is also extremely extensive, selling everything from flowers to trees that cost as much as £7k).

There is also an on-site bookshop, as well as shops selling clothing, food and interiors, and even artwork. Expect some of the fancier brands, such as Barbour and Le Creuset on the shelves.

There are “Bulb Markets” to stock up on flowers in the spring time.

The onsite cafe and bakery is a must visit too.

The Glasshouse Cafe feels more like a chic European eatery, with wicker shades and palm trees.

Make sure to grab a giant scone – so delicious we even ordered a batch for my sister’s wedding. It even has events including stitching classes, rare book courses and fish mornings.

But my favourite time to visit is Christmas, as the exhibits are spectacular.

For more days out in the UK, check out the farm shop that’s the ‘Harrods of the North’ and is loved by Molly-Mae – with forest lodges and hot tubs.

Plus, check out the inside of the UK’s biggest garden centre with soft play, shopping village and its own tea room.

Stewarts has the oldest garden centre in the UKCredit: Instagram

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Pretty English-speaking island where you can escape to 22C in winter

The island is just a four-and-a-half hour flight from London and offers year-round sunshine, with flowers beginning to bloom in March

Brits seeking a sun-soaked escape might want to consider this English-speaking island, just a short hop from the UK and basking in a cosy 22C during winter.

Just a four-and-a-half hour jaunt from London, this Mediterranean jewel provides a much-needed respite from the UK’s current frosty, damp weather.

With sunshine all year round and flowers starting to blossom in March, Cyprus is an excellent pick for families, with plenty of family-friendly hotels on offer.

The island also boasts a variety of activities, from hiking to exploring cultural and historical sites. Winter brings fewer tourists, making it the ideal time to visit popular attractions without the long queues, reports the Express.

Party animals will be attracted to Ayia Napa, one of Europe’s premier party hotspots, while those in search of relaxation can soak up the island’s 300 days of annual sunshine.

A journey into the Troodos Mountains reveals breathtaking scenery and a charming village nestled in the valley below.

In an unexpected twist, there’s a ski resort tucked away in the Troodos Mountain Range. Open from January to March, it’s situated on Mount Olympus,

Holidaymakers can drive up to the slopes, which offer several picturesque viewpoints along the way.

Nestled in the valley is the village of Omodos, teeming with restaurants serving traditional dishes – perfect after a day of mountain trekking.

The village is also home to a monastery that welcomes visitors for tours. A local fortified sweet wine, commandaria, is a favourite in the area and can be found on locals’ doorsteps for €2-€5 (£1.61-£4.23).

Another must-see is Nicosia, Cyprus’ divided capital. Following the 1974 civil war, the island was split into two states: the Greek Republic of Southern Cyprus and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

The border, known as the ‘green line’, runs through Nicosia, making it the world’s only divided capital city. Tourists can cross the border at several points.

Other attractions include underwater waterfall hikes, a turtle conservation station, Aphrodite’s Rock, the Tombs of the Kings, snorkelling adventures, Akamas Peninsula National Park, castles and even a wellness retreat.

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Man asks ‘what would you do’ if this happened on your flight

A man asked ‘what would you do’ if you were faced with this situation, and many admitted they would be thrilled to find themselves sitting in this seat…

It’s always nice to have pleasant seatmates when travelling by plane. You’re in a tight space at 35,000 feet in the air, so someone polite, perhaps even sweet, is the ideal situation – especially if you’ve drawn the short straw and you’re sitting in the middle seat.

But one man asked, “What would you do” if you were flying and your seatmates were his three adorable cats.

“Sponge Cake, Donut, and Buttercream all love chin scratches!” he wrote as the caption to the adorable video, which had people desperately wanting to meet the threesome. “What would you do if you were stuck with three furbabies on a flight to Paris?” he penned over the top of the clip, which amassed almost 20,000 likes.

Then, the camera panned to Sponge Cake, Donut, and Buttercream, who were all wearing the most adorable French costumes, complete with berets and striped shirts.

One of the cats was gazing out of the window, probably wondering when their next meal was, and then the next shot saw two of the cats grooming each other, politely sitting in their seat.

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In the comments, the cats were showered with praise. One woman wrote: “These sweet guys on planes are always so cute. People who get to ride with them are blessed. What fun that would be. I love them”.

Another wrote: “They are so beautiful and well-behaved. They need their own private jet”.

“I’d pay extra to sit next to them,” a cat lover admitted, and many others likely feel the same.

Somebody pointed out that they’re all “dressed beautifully,” with one Instagram user saying: “That’s the best thing ever! I’d be happy to sit next to them!”

There are different rules for different airlines as to whether you’re allowed to travel with dogs or cats in the cabin.

On the Flight Centre UK website, they explain that cats and dogs are usually the only types of animals allowed to travel on airlines, and most others are required to be shipped or freighted by road.

Usually, they warn that your pet will be placed in the cargo hold under the main cabin seating or sometimes in the front or rear of the plane, depending on the aircraft.

However, if you have a small pet, you may be able to take it on board as carry-on.

They write: “While there are currently no airlines from the UK that offer this service, it is possible on some flights in the United States and Europe, depending on the airline”.

They also note that pets are supposed to stay in their carrier at all times, but it’s important that you speak to a travel consultant beforehand so you can figure out the best course of action for you and your pets.

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History comes alive at a new hotel-museum in the ancient Italian city of Matera | Italy holidays

Diners fall silent as the haunting sound of the aulos – a double-piped wind instrument from ancient Greece – echoes through the vaulted breakfast room. The musician, Davide, wears a chiton (tunic), as do the guests; the mosaic floor, decorated vases and flicker of flames from the sconces add to the sense that we’ve stepped back in time.

This is Moyseion, a one-of-a-kind hotel-museum in the famous troglodyte city of Matera, in Basilicata, known for its sassi – cave dwellings carved into the limestone mountainside. Every detail has been carefully designed to transport visitors to Magna Graecia, as this area of southern Italy was known when it was ruled by the ancient Greeks from the 8th-6th century BC.

Dreamed up by owner Antonio Panetta, an artist and lawyer turned hotelier who grew up nearby, the idea was to create “an immersive experience of history – a living work of art, where archaeology, myth and hospitality combine”. Four years in the making, it opened fully this summer in a series of restored sassi close to the city centre.

Replicas of museum artefacts are on display, from urns to jewellery, while the handmade furniture copies designs seen on ancient pottery – three-legged tables, wall-mounted torches, vast wooden chests. Eight of the 16 stone dwellings are inspired by ancient Greece – high wooden beds, natural fabrics, cabinets with items depicting daily life of the era. They’re spacious, comfortable and remarkably calming (mod cons such as mirrors and hairdryers are carefully hidden from view). Other rooms reflect pre-Greek periods.

The lobby of hotel-museum Moyseion. Photograph: Adriano Fedele

In the basement, the Sanctuary of Waters is a multilevel spa dedicated to the goddess Demeter, evoking sacred sites of a lost world. It’s a moodily lit space with pools, statues of deities and stone basins based on Hellenistic thermal complexes. The floor mosaics are replicas of archaeological finds.

But what really makes this place special is the young in-house team of archaeologists, classicists, musicians, performers, costume designers and dancers that bring everything to life with a passion for history that they’re keen to share. Staff have worked with international specialists in everything from ancient music to choreography and cuisine to ensure an authentic experience – it took a year simply to master the circular breathing needed to play the aulos, Davide tells me. Guests become part of the action as they take part in daily rituals and symposiums. I’d worried it would feel like a theme park, but as I wander around in my chiton, a musician playing a specially created trigonon (small triangular harp), it somehow feels magical, not gimmicky.

Matera itself is layered with history. Believed to be the third oldest city in the world, after Aleppo in Syria and Jericho in Palestine’s West Bank, its location on the edge of a ravine adds to the drama. We arrive at night, a bright moon hanging above the rocky limestone landscape and maze of honey-coloured streets, like a timeless nativity scene. No wonder this place has had a starring role in countless films, from Mel Gibson’s controversial The Passion of the Christ and the 2016 remake of Ben-Hur (both times standing in for Jerusalem), to James Bond’s famous car chase through the old town in No Time to Die.

Davide, dressed in a chiton, plays the aulos, an ancient Greek wind instrument. Photograph: Caroline Gavazzi

We explore the sassi with guide Sandra, navigating the winding streets and piazzas, a jigsaw puzzle worthy of an Escher drawing. Divided into two ancient districts, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, with the medieval Civita (old town) between, dwellings were both natural and human-made, partly dug into the rock and extended over millennia. Some were homes, some became part of the many monasteries and churches, incorporated into newer buildings that rose above them. Later, grand villas and palaces sprang up, such as Palazzo Viceconte (a Bond location), and Palazzo Malvinni Malvezzi, where Francis Ford Coppola is shooting his new film, Distant Vision, opposite the 13th-century romanesque cathedral.

By the 1950s, however, the city had been dubbed the “shame of Italy” due to the poverty and unsanitary living conditions in the sassi. A 1952 law declared them uninhabitable and more than 15,000 people were moved to new, modern quarters on the outskirts of town. The cave dwellings stood empty until the late 1980s, when people slowly started moving back to restore them as hotels and restaurants. Unesco world heritage status came in 1993 and it was a European capital of culture in 2019, putting the city firmly on the tourist map.

Breakfast at Moyseion. Photograph: Adriano Fedele

At every turn there is something new to gawp at. We visit the preserved cave house in Vico Solitario, which shows how life would have been when it was last inhabited in 1956 – mules and chickens living alongside the family, shelves and niches carved into the walls. We admire frescoes in churches excavated into rock – the Santa Maria de Idris and adjoining San Giovanni in Monterrone on a rocky spur with amazing views are among the most impressive.

I love Musma, a wonderful sprawling gallery space that’s part 16th-century palazzo, part ancient cave complex, dedicated to contemporary art and sculpture. We visit artists keeping traditional crafts alive, too, weaving cloth on looms and carving wooden bread stamps, once used to imprint the owner’s initials on huge durum wheat loaves before they were cooked in the communal ovens.

On a dine-with-locals experience we’re welcomed into the home of Marisa and Fernando and feast on endless plates of fried olives, bocconcini and artichoke, homemade pasta and fichi d’india (cactus fruit) as they share stories of Matera past and present. One afternoon we cross the suspension footbridge over the Gravina River to the other side of the gorge and climb to Murgia park, a vast wild rocky plateau pocked with hundreds of rupestrian churches (churches carved into rocks or cave walls). It’s the perfect vantage point to look back and watch the sunset paint the pale limestone town rose gold.

A musician plays a trigonon in Moyseion’s spa, based on a Hellenistic thermal complex. Photograph: Moyseion

But it’s time spent at Moyseion and the people we meet there that stick in my mind. The ritual held in the water sanctuary each day, where we follow performers playing the lyre and recreating mythical tales of gods and goddesses; the evening symposiums where wine, music, dance and conversation are shared, as they would have been in ancient Greece.

Even breakfast – akratisma – is an experience, the menu carefully researched and curated by food anthropologists and historians, and prepared by chef Vita. The table is laden with various breads and cheeses and cakes – melitoutta made with yoghurt, honey and cinnamon, plakous made of filo pastry with ricotta, figs and walnuts. There’s barley salad with pomegranate, spreads made of wild onion, mushrooms or olives, quails’ eggs and sausage. The hotel has also started hosting courses and residencies in ancient music and dance, the first focusing on the lyre, working with Lotos Lab, a research centre in Cambridge, and world-class scholars.

Matera has an important archaeological museum (closed for refurbishment during our visit), but few visitors to the city actually go, Panetta tells me. “People don’t want to just observe history and stare at things in a museum, they want to experience it in a real way,” he says. “When guests come here, they soon realise this is not Disney. The past is still alive in our souls – we want you to feel the past in the present, to make the past live again.”

The trip was provided by Moyseion. Rooms from €184 a night, including breakfast, rituals and symposium. Ferula Viaggi offers a range of tours in Matera, Basilicata and Puglia

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My Arbor hotel review: Stunning treehouse hotel in South Tyrol with scenery that looks like a movie set

Escape to the Dolomite mountains in northern Italy this winter for stunning scenery and rooms with a view at this striking treehouse spa hotel

There’s certainly something magical about being in the mountains at this time of year, and if you’re looking for an upmarket alpine escape, Brixen in Italy’s Dolomites region ticks all the boxes.

South Tyrol’s oldest town, Brixen – also known as Bressanone – is a popular destination for domestic and international holidaymakers alike, who come for skiing in the winter and walking in the summer. With German as the locals’ first language, the region feels much more Austrian than Italian. It was, in fact, part of Austria-Hungary until the end of the First World War.

If you’re lucky enough to have snow when you visit, Brixen will look like a scene from a snowglobe, with medieval churches, traditional Christmas markets and a festive light and music show held throughout the small town.

Brixen is easily accessible from Bolzano, Innsbruck, Venice and Verona airports, but if the flights work for you, do try to fly via SkyAlps, South Tyrol’s very own airline, direct from London to Bolzano. The journey is a delight, and you’ll feel like you’ve gone back to a golden age of aviation as you board the little propeller plane, which carries no more than 76 passengers. Drinks and snacks (many of which are local to the region) are complimentary, and you get to enjoy stunning views of the mountains as you fly over them.

My Arbor hotel

The My Arbor hotel, a few kilometres uphill from Brixen, has the wow factor as soon as you pull up to it. Perched on the side of a mountain, half of the hotel is raised up on what look like impossibly spindly stilts, as if the architect sketched a design for a treehouse after watching War Of The Worlds . The result is modern yet also completely in tune with the surrounding nature.

The ‘tree hotel’ theme continues as you step through the front door, with huge trunks hanging from the ceiling of the spacious lobby, leading onto a terrace that opens out onto views of the valley below.

The bedrooms are wood-panelled too, in a contemporary chalet-style design. The highlight is the huge daybed in the windows of the rooms, putting you right among the treetops as you lounge with your morning coffee, watching the clouds clear off the mountains in the distance. For total luxury, you can stay in one of three Treetop Suites, which have private terraces and their own whirlpool hot tubs.

The spa at My Arbor

The Spa Arboris is the star of the show at My Arbor, with two entire floors dedicated to wellness, and it’s clearly popular with guests. The first floor allows clothing and has a large indoor/outdoor pool, sauna and plenty of beds. But if you want to embrace German spa culture and leave your swimsuit and your inhibitions behind, then head down to the ‘textile-free’ floor (no one is looking, trust us), where you’ll find lots more saunas, steam rooms and an outdoor hydropool. It’s down here where ‘sauna infusions’ take place four times a day too, involving intense heat, powerful music and essential oils.

Outside, cosy heated ‘cuddle nests’ can also be booked for two-hour periods, filled with snuggly blankets and uninterrupted views.

My Arbor

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My Arbor's lobby

From about £225 per person, per night

Booking.com

Book here

A striking treehouse-style hotel in Italy’s beautiful South Tyrol, with stunning views, seven-course dinners and a world class spa.

The food at My Arbor

Most guests at My Arbor stay half-board, and you certainly won’t go hungry here. Dinner consists of a seven-course menu with a changing theme every night, alongside buffet salads, cheese boards and desserts. To accompany it is a huge wine list that the helpful staff are only too happy to advise on. Impressively, our waiter expertly talked us through the 600-bottle offering in English, his third language.

At breakfast you’ll find a selection of all the usual continental favourites – breads, meats, cheeses and pastries – as well as healthier options such as kefir water, freshly squeezed blueberry juice and different flavours of porridge every day.

What to do around My Arbor

The Plose ski resort and cable car is nearby, but locals tell us it’s not one of the Dolomites’ major ski destinations. Instead, most visitors come for the walking, with dozens of picturesque, well-signposted trails around the area. We visited earlier in the year, so our hiking routes felt like scenes straight out of The Sound Of Music , taking us past wildflower meadows, bleating baby goats, ancient churches and trickling streams. We don’t think it gets any more idyllic than that.

How much does it cost to stay at My Arbor?

Rooms at My Arbor start from about £225 per person, per night. SkyAlps operates flights from London Gatwick to Bolzano three times a week, from around £140 each way. Children under two travel free of charge.

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