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How to explore Britain and Ireland’s most beautiful rivers on foot, bike or boat: readers’ travel tips | Travel

Bolton Abbey and the Yorkshire Dales from the Wharfe

Last summer, I enjoyed a six-mile walk along the fast-flowing River Wharfe from Ilkley to Bolton Abbey, with calming vistas of the Yorkshire Dales every step of the way. I set out at Ilkley’s Riverside Gardens on the south bank, near the remains of a Roman fort. Trace the path to the ancient stone bridge and along to the picturesque village of Addingham with its Low Mill weir and views of late bronze age or early iron age Castleberg fort. Simply carry on hugging the riverbank to the splendid remains of 12th-century monastery of Bolton Abbey, situated in wonderful woods and parkland.
Helen

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

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Cruising the Bure in the Norfolk Broads

The ruins of St Benet’s Abbey. Photograph: John Duckett/Alamy

A week cruising along the River Bure in Norfolk from Acle to Coltishall is an unforgettable experience. With a speed limit of 5mph, life is slow, and there is plenty of time to enjoy the ever-changing landscape and wildlife. Numerous stopping places give access to nature reserves, quintessentially English villages such as Belaugh, the romantic ruins of St Benet’s Abbey, as well as riverside pubs and the Broads themselves. Not to forget “the world’s largest village store”, Roys of Wroxham – an essential port of call to restock supplies before the atmospheric last stretch to Coltishall with its cafes and shops. Boats can be hired from several locations and are easy to handle – no experience needed.
John

Wildlife in the city on Coventry’s River Sowe

Herons are a common sight on British rivers. Photograph: FLPA/Alamy

For a peaceful walk close to Coventry city centre, try the Sowe Valley Footpath. This 8½-mile riverside trail runs from Hawkesbury Junction to Whitley Grove Wood, following the River Sowe – a tributary of the Avon – through woodland, waterways and urban landscapes. Look out for herons, moorhens and other wildlife along the way. I love that it shows how nature can be found in unexpected places.
Deborah Dixon

Edinburgh’s sublime Water of Leith

The Water of Leith runs through Dean Village. Photograph: Jui-Chi Chan/Alamy

The Water of Leith Walkway is a 13-mile riverside journey through Edinburgh from Balerno to Leith, lovingly cared for by the Water of Leith Conservation Trust. A good introduction is to walk from Roseburn (a mile west of Princes Street) downstream to Stockbridge. It’s about two miles and will take roughly 45 minutes through Dean Village and passing St Bernard’s Well. If you’re lucky, you might see a kingfisher.
Keith Cumming

From the Midlands to the Fens and the sea along the Welland

The River Welland between Market Deeping and Crowland. Photograph: Tim Scrivener/Alamy

I create my own long-distance walks using the Ordnance Survey app. My favourite was a five-day walk following the 65-mile long River Welland from source to sea. Starting at Sibbertoft, near Market Harborough in Leicestershire, I walked the Rutland-Northamptonshire border past Rockingham Castle near Corby, through Stamford and the poet John Clare’s birthplace at Helpston. The route then headed out into the fens, stopping at the ruined medieval abbey at Crowland and the elegant canal-side town of Spalding. The final day was spent slowly watching the Boston Stump (St Botolph’s church) grow larger as I walked to where the river met the sea.
Alex

Cruisng down the Shannon, Ireland’s ‘Mississippi Delta’

The Shannon at Banagher harbour, County Offaly. Photograph: Image Broker/Alamy

Shannon Harbour in the Irish Midlands marks the spot where the Grand Canal meets Ireland’s River Shannon. As children we often walked the canal, stopping in McIntyre’s pub for Irish tapas (Tayto crisps). But the biggest treat was when my father’s childhood friend would take us in his boat from Shannon Harbour to the Shannon proper. The landscape changes utterly. On a warm day it feels like leaving rural Ireland and going down the Mississippi Delta. On a wet day you can’t see the other side. But McIntyre’s will be open when you get back, whatever the weather.
Eve

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Roman ruins along York’s Ouse

Walking the Ouse is a great way of exploring York. Photograph: Andrew Briggs/Alamy

North Yorkshire’s River Ouse takes you on a gorgeous walk through York and beyond. You can start by crossing Scarborough Bridge before strolling down Dame Judi Dench Walk, then meander past Roman and medieval ruins at the Museum Gardens. The Perky Peacock cafe in a medieval tower on the riverside is a highlight. You can follow the river down to Rowntree Park and Millennium Bridge. Just beware of the cobbles and some step-only access along the way.
Mary

Waterfalls on the Tees in County Durham

Kayakers tackle Low Force. Photograph: Malkin Photography/Alamy

The River Tees crashes over High Force waterfall amid dramatic moorland before bubbling over Low Force downstream. Park at Bowlees and cross the Tees at Low Force on the historic Wynch suspension bridge, built in the 1830s (it replaced Britain’s first suspension bridge, built by lead miners in 1741). It’s a good place to stop and watch kayakers tackle Low Force. Continue upstream through the moorland to the roar of High Force. After all that fresh air, finish with cake at Bowlees visitor centre, bliss!
Hannah S

Winning tip: along the Ouse through the South Downs

The River Ouse near Lewes, East Sussex. Photograph: Lemanieh/Getty Images

Following the River Ouse (one of five British Ouses) to the sea is great fun, on foot or bike. I usually start near Horsham in West Sussex, and track the Ouse Valley Way which passes through South Downs. This route lets you cross rolling fields and wander through woodland paths and you can even pause at the beautiful Nymans, an extraordinary garden owned by the National Trust. The river walk goes under a 37-arch Victorian railway viaduct near Balcombe and leads to the historic town of Lewes in East Sussex, where you can have a break at the John Harvey Tavern and watch the waters flow past. The final part is an easy stretch of flat riverside walking as you the coast comes into sight, leading into Newhaven.
Peter

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The best Disneyland tips, according to Disney’s Chris Mortensen

Arrive early — or stay late — for low wait times.

Be wary of rushing straight to the most popular attractions at the park, as many others will have that identical strategy.

If you don’t mind being split up, take advantage of the single rider line, especially on a showcase attraction such as Radiator Springs Racers.

Every Disneyland regular has tips, time-saving, stress-reducing ideas to enhance your day at the park.

You’re reading Mr. Todd’s Wild Ride newsletter

Todd Martens’ newsletter delivers news and commentary on the past, present and future of theme parks, right from the theme park capital of the world — Southern California.

So when I had the opportunity to talk to Chris Mortensen, one of the Disneyland Resort’s longest-tenured vacation planners, I wanted to know his.

Mortensen recently celebrated his 40th year with the company, and has spent more than 20 of them in his current role as director of West Coast Travel Operations. That means a significant part of his job is talking on the phone with those who want advice on how to plan their Disneyland days.

He comes from a Disney family. His wife has spent about 30 years with the resort, and one of their children is also a cast member. If anyone should know how to plan a special day at Disneyland, it’s Mortensen.

One of his key pieces of advice: Decide what’s most important to you as a guest. “Is it a thrill ride? Is it entertainment? Is it food?” Mortensen asks. “One of the things that I like to tell people is that you’re going to have a really busy day, but take time for yourself.”

Here are some of Mortensen’s other favorite park tips. We steered the conversation to Southern California locals, and those who may want a little glimpse of what makes Disneyland so special.

Get around the park by train

Here’s one hint, off the bat, that Mortensen says he gives most everyone: “Use the Disneyland Railroad as a form of transportation. Yes, it’s a great little attraction. Seeing the dinosaurs is one of my favorites. But it’s also a great way to get from one place to another. If you’re on Main Street and don’t want to walk all the way back to see ‘Bluey,’ jump on the railway. It’s a great way to get a little rest, and experience the park.”

Decompress at Disneyland’s most tranquil spot

Disneyland's Snow White Grotto is a tranquil spot overlooked by many guests.

Disneyland’s Snow White Grotto is a tranquil spot overlooked by many guests.

(Todd Martens / Los Angeles Times)

Mortensen notes that it’s impossible to see all Disneyland has to offer in a single day, but rather than stressing about rushing from attraction to attraction, prioritize those that are important to you, and then take a breather at some overlooked park elements, especially those that add to its beauty and tranquility. I couldn’t agree more, and was pleased when Mortensen singled out one of my favorite places in the park: the Snow White Grotto, which is on a path on the eastern side of Sleeping Beauty Castle.

Sculpted by Leonida Parma from Carrara marble, the initial figures have, according to Disney’s fan club D23, been since replaced by fiberglass ones built from the original molds. The eight figures are still a sight, and Disney legendary designer John Hench constructed the fountain that holds them in 1960. The character figures, in the midst of a collection of jutting rocks and log bridges surrounding a peaceful waterfall, are all the same height, so Hench used forced perspective illusions to make it seem like Snow White was towering over the dwarf sculpts.

“The Snow White wishing well — you won’t find that anywhere [else],” Mortensen says. “Bring a quarter and toss it in, experience that.”

Take time for the Sleeping Beauty Castle Walkthrough, a lesser-known attraction

Don't sleep on the Sleeping Beauty Castle Walkthrough at Disneyland.

Don’t sleep on the Sleeping Beauty Castle Walkthrough at Disneyland.

(Todd Martens / Los Angeles Times)

“People don’t know about it,” Mortensen says of the self-guided mini-tour that tells the tale of Princess Aurora.

Indeed, I had the Sleeping Beauty Castle Walkthrough to myself one late Sunday morning. The attraction, best experienced with patience in mind, is largely inspired by the artwork of Eyvind Earle. Earle’s approach, after all, is designed to transport us, to place us in lush, fairy-tale-like environments that contain an ever-so-slightly foreboding atmosphere.

Think of this as a mini-art gallery where illuminated dioramas spring to life and transform before us. The walk-through was updated with new effects and artwork in 2008 but dates to 1957.

It’s Disneyland. Order the iconic turkey leg.

Mortensen and I clearly have different palates. If I’m recommending a must-try Disney snack, it’s not the churro. It’s the corn dog. Mortensen, however, is voting for the turkey leg. A brave choice, I believe, as it’s a hefty item and, well, a lot of tough meat. Mortensen, however, made his case.

“It’s unique,” he says. “Yes, you can get a churro, but where else can you walk around and just literally bite out of a turkey leg? It’s about trying to create memories. Every time we have conversations with someone, it’s about, ‘What’s going to make a memory for you?’ You’re always going to remember walking around Disneyland as a 5- or 6-year-old little boy or girl with a turkey leg.”

Turn It’s a Small World into a scavenger hunt

Cinderella is one of the many Disney characters that was added to It's a Small World in the late 2000s.

Cinderella is one of the many Disney characters that was added to It’s a Small World in the late 2000s.

(Todd Martens / Los Angeles Times)

Mortensen had my attention when he declared It’s a Small World a must-do attraction at the park. After all, the Mary Blair-styled boat excursion is my favorite Disneyland ride.

Mortensen highlights a once controversial but now beloved late 2000s renovation that added more than two dozen Disney and Pixar characters to the attraction. When riding It’s a Small World, he says, try to spot as many as possible. Disneyland even recently placed Miguel from “Coco” in the ride. Focusing on the scavenger hunt, says Mortensen, helps turn a familiar attraction into one that feels fresh.

“There’s more to it than just riding the attraction,” he says.

Spot details in the windows of Main Street

Enjoying a horse-drawn trip around Main Street, U.S.A., is a relaxing start to a Disneyland day.

Enjoying a horse-drawn trip around Main Street, U.S.A., is a relaxing start to a Disneyland day.

(Todd Martens / Los Angeles Times)

Disneyland’s introductory land is a joy. Often, I start my day with a ride on one of Disneyland’s horse-drawn carriages, which venture from the foot of Main Street, U.S.A., to the Sleeping Beauty Castle and back. It’s a relaxing way to settle into the theme park and take a look at the exquisite designs of the Main Street buildings, which many guests rush past on their way to one of the park’s many rides.

Mortensen wanted to call specific attention to Main Street’s windows, which celebrate those who were integral to the development of the park. Many are nods to famed Disneyland designers. Most recently, the park awarded a window to the just-retired Kim Irvine and her mother, Leota Toombs. Irvine and Toombs were longtime creatives with Walt Disney Imagineering vital to the development of the park.

“I love to point out the windows on Main Street,” Mortensen says. “If you and I were walking in, that’s what I would do. I’d grab a box of popcorn, and just point out two or three of the names. Some people you may recognize. Some people you may not.”

And I certainly won’t argue with popcorn for breakfast.

This week in SoCal theme parks

Disney legend Don Iwerks died last week at 96.

Disney legend Don Iwerks died last week at 96.

(Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)

  • A legend was lost. Don Iwerks, whose inventiveness helped transform Disney’s theme parks, died July 9 at the age of 96, reported the Walt Disney Co. For Disney and his own studio, Iwerks Entertainment, Iwerks helped develop technologies and techniques like Circle-Vision, the 360-degree camera behind “America the Beautiful” and other early Disney attractions, and the 3D effects used in attractions like Captain EO and Star Tours. He also had major contributions to the world of cinema, instrumental, particularly, in the effects sequences of “Mary Poppins.” Read more about Iwerks in The Times’ obituary by Corinne Purtill.
  • Fiesta Village is no more. The Inland Empire amusement park, which stood for more than 50 years, closed for good last weekend. A center for mini golf, roller skating and go-karting, Fiesta Village announced the closure last week, citing rising operation costs and declining attendance.
  • Montezooma’s Revenge is back. The reimagined coaster, now known as Montezooma: The Forbidden Fortress, is set to return to Knott’s Berry Farm on Monday. Shuttered for the last four years, the ride has essentially been rebuilt, now featuring enhanced Aztec theming, new trains and a modern launch system. Look for a report on the remade coaster next week.
  • It’s almost Halloween season. Disneyland in mid-August will launch its Oogie Boogie Bash, Universal will follow in early September with Halloween Horror Nights and Knott’s Berry Farm isn’t far behind with its Knott’s Scary Farm. The latter is the longest-running Halloween event in the Southland, and defined the maze-focused haunt formula. Tickets are now on sale for all three happenings.
  • Happy 71st anniversary, Disneyland! On Friday, Disneyland will turn 71. While the occasion won’t be as grand as the 70th anniversary, which has been celebrated for the past year and will essentially continue up until the start of the park’s Halloween activities, the Anaheim theme park typically recognizes the birthday with some light festivities for guests. Think, perhaps, a character cavalcade or some specialty treats.

Tell us your stories. Ask us your questions.

Have a theme park tale to share? Whether it was a good day or less-than-perfect day, I would love to hear about it. Have a question? A tip? A fun photo from the parks to share? Email me at todd.martens@latimes.com. I may feature your note in an upcoming newsletter.

Ride on,

Todd Martens

P.S.

The initial news for those who purchased Disneyland’s specially priced $59 nighttime ticket is good. While now sold-out, Disneyland launched the promotional evenings this past Sunday, and the park didn’t appear flooded with twilight guests. Attendance was continuing a summer trend of being relatively light, and though wait times increased in the evening, nothing was headache-inducing.

At times, even showcase attraction Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance stood at about 40 minutes, with Space Mountain often showing a similar wait time. Most rides, however, were even more approachable, topping off at around 25 minutes throughout the night. Since the evening ticket only gives guests a taste of Disneyland — five hours worth — it’s a positive sign that the event’s opening night kept things manageable, providing those who bought in at a budget price a prime experience.



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FPL gameweek 37 tips: Captain Gyokeres, pick Thiago, Lewis-Skelly and Dewsbury-Hall

Caoimhin Kelleher, Brentford, keeper, £4.8m – Crystal Palace (h)

Since week 29, Kelleher has returned a clean sheet every other week.

Arsenal aside, there aren’t many strong clean sheet picks this week but this Crystal Palace side is unlikely to be at full strength for the trip to the Gtech Community Stadium.

They will have their minds firmly on their Europa Conference League final and manager Oliver Glasner is likely to continue his rotation and protection of star players.

Gabriel, Arsenal, £7.3m – Burnley (h)

If you’re not picking the best defender in the game at home to a relegated team then something has gone wrong!

Gabriel got 11 points last week including defensive contribution points (defcon) making it just once in the past eight weeks that he has failed to return – and that was away at Manchester City.

Myles Lewis-Skelly, Arsenal, £5m – Burnley (h)

Double Arsenal defence again only this time I’m going with Lewis-Skelly, who might end up playing in midfield for the Gunners.

Burnley at home feels like a stonewall cleansheet for Arsenal and Lewis-Skelly could earn more defcon and pose a bigger attacking threat from a central midfield slot.

James Tarkowski, Everton, £5.7m – Sunderland (h)

Another 15-point return would be nice from Tarkowski, after his haul at Crystal Palace last time.

The fourth-highest scoring defender, he has returned defcon in 20 of 35 games to go with the attacking threat he demonstrated last week.

And Sunderland have scored just once in three games.

Malick Thiaw, Newcastle United, £4.9m – West Ham (h)

Another defcon monster who has been on the verge of a haul several times recently with no luck.

Thiaw’s xG over his past four games is 1.06 with nothing to show for it.

West Ham have only scored in one of their past four games so there are chances for points at both ends for Thiaw.

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