thriving

This popular tourist town started as a small fishing village and is now an iconic British location

Summer is here and the temperature is rising. If you’re like me and live in a city with no easy access to the beach, fleeing the urban sprawl for a seaside town is a very tempting idea. It was this idea that struck my boyfriend and I a few weeks ago when we decided to get out of London for the day and head to the coastal city of Brighton for some fresh air and sunshine.

I had visited before, but never as an adult. On the weekend we decided to take our trip, temperatures in London were forecast to soar above 30°C, and it felt like the perfect excuse to escape the capital and breathe in some fresh sea air.

Brighton may now be one of the UK’s best-known seaside destinations, where millions flock every summer but it didn’t always feel that way.

From fishing village to tourism hotspot

In the 18th century this once small fishing settlement began to become a tourist destination for Britain’s wealthy. At the time, there was a belief that sea air, bathing in the ocean and even drinking seawater could have health benefits – and so Brighton became one of the UK’s first wellness retreats.

It was also a favourite of King George IV who created the Royal Pavilion – one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

He’s not the only member of the elite who loved Brighton.

The city’s mix of history, creativity and seaside charm continues to draw artists and performers and it is easy to see why.

The city of Brighton has long since been a haven for famous creatives. From DJ Fatboy Slim to Oscar winner Cate Blanchett, Brighton has been home to all sorts of famous people.

When the railway arrived in the 19th century, it became more accessible for people from London (like my boyfriend and myself) which helped Brighton become even more popular now.

Today, Brighton is still an incredibly popular place to visit – and the railway is still letting Londoners flock to the sea in droves, as we found out.

Joining the crowds

The moment my boyfriend and I arrived at London Bridge to catch our train,it became abundantly clear we had no chance of getting a seat. It seemed almost everyone in London had decided to spend the day by the seaside.

The carriages were so rammed that the train bypassed several stops and took us directly to Brighton. As we travelled towards the coast alongside droves of heat-weary Londoners, I quickly realised that spending the day on the beach was not at the top of my agenda.

For one thing, I hadn’t brought a swimming costume. For another, I’m from New Zealand, where beaches are often made up of pristine white sand and, even at the height of summer, can be blissfully quiet.

The prospect of squeezing onto Brighton’s pebbles alongside thousands of strangers held absolutely no appeal.

Instead, we hopped off our train and headed for North Laine.

And escaping them

Tucked away in the heart of Brighton, North Laine is a vibrant maze of colourful streets and winding lanes packed with independent shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants.

While much of the bank holiday crowd had gravitated towards the seafront, North Laine felt noticeably calmer.

We wandered through the lively streets, dipping in and out of shops as we went. There was everything from jewellery and homeware to driftwood art and vintage clothing, with something to suit almost every taste.

For me, it was the perfect way to while away an afternoon — and a far more appealing alternative to fighting for a patch of pebbles.

After a few hours of browsing, we had worked up an appetite and began the hunt for somewhere to eat.

We settled on Mange Tout, an independent French restaurant tucked away in North Laine.

Having travelled from London during a bank holiday heatwave, we had prepared ourselves for a scramble to find a table or the prospect of being added to a lengthy waiting list.

Instead, we had our pick of tables.

We sat outside in the glorious sunshine, watching the world drift by. It felt worlds away from the mayhem we knew was unfolding on the seafront.

For lunch, my boyfriend ordered a breakfast bun while I tucked into moules marinière. We washed it all down with a couple of drinks — we were on holiday, after all.

Seeing the sea – and the surprise cost

After lunch, we decided we couldn’t visit Brighton without at least catching a glimpse of the sea.

We made our way back through North Laine towards the coast, stopping in several shops we had overlooked during our first walk.

Eventually, the ocean came into view.

I had expected the beach to be busy, but the sheer number of people sprawled across it had to be seen to be believed.

As far as the eye could see in both directions, the pebbled shore was packed with sunbathers, paddlers and groups sheltering beneath umbrellas.

Out at sea, jet skis darted back and forth while one particularly intrepid snorkeller ventured further and further from the shore.

In the distance, the outline of a wind farm stretched across the horizon. Curious to get a closer look, we decided to head down the pier.

Entry to the pier cost £1 each — another surprise — and as we made our way along it, we passed through an enormous arcade roughly halfway down. It was one of two arcades on the pier and, much like the beach, it was absolutely heaving.

The space was dark, deafening and so stifling that I felt as though I had tumbled straight off the pier and into the water below. Horrified, I quietly turned to my boyfriend and asked: “Why does this even exist? Who comes to the beach just to be inside?”

He immediately replied: “How often do you think the weather is actually good here?”

He had a point.

The pier was certainly an experience — although not one I would particularly rush to repeat. That said, if I were seven years old, I imagine it would feel utterly magical.

There were fairground rides, candy floss and doughnuts, all accompanied by the sound of waves lapping beneath your feet. Sadly, I’m 31, and the thrill of a fairground ride is well and truly lost on me.

Will I ever return?

Once we reached the end of the pier, we agreed it was time to make our way back to London.

But not before making one final stop in North Laine for a well-earned end-of-day pint.

Brighton’s beach may be its biggest draw, particularly when temperatures climb above 30°C, but for me, the city’s real charm was found away from the packed pebbles.

And while I may not have been tempted to join the crowds on the beach, I’ll happily return to explore more of Brighton’s vibrant streets.

The picturesque town is dubbed the ‘Jewel of the Weald’ and boasts award-winning wineries

If you’re after a UK destination to visit that’s away from the usual tourist trail, look no further than this underrated town. Like many British market towns, this spot has seen businesses come and go, but it has generally remained resilient thanks to tourism and its emphasis on independent retailers.

New cafés, salons and professional services have continued to open in recent years, helping maintain a lively town centre despite the wider challenges facing UK high streets. Its high street is often described as one of the most attractive market-town high streets in Kent.

Rather than being dominated by chain stores, it has retained a strong independent character, with a broad, tree-lined layout that makes it feel more like a promenade than a conventional shopping street.

When it comes to independent shopping you’ll find boutiques, gift shops, bookshops, galleries, jewellers, delicatessens, cafés and specialist retailers alongside a handful of familiar national brands. This mix has helped the town remain a shopping destination for both locals and visitors.

Walking along the high street today, you’ll pass several historic landmarks, including St Mildred’s Church, whose origins date back to the 12th century and the 1792 Town Hall, an elegant Georgian building.

Kent town

Nicknamed the “Jewel of the Weald” by locals, the picturesque town of Tenterden in Kent is easily accessible and boasts arts and folk festivals, restaurants and award-winning wineries and historic architecture.

Although the population is only around 8,200, Tenterden serves a much wider rural area. People from dozens of surrounding villages come into town for shopping, healthcare, banking and cafés, so it often feels busier than its size would suggest.

For a relatively small place, Tenterden has a busy calendar. Annual events include:

• May Fair
• Folk Festival
• Christmas Market
• Classic car gatherings
• Steam railway events
• Food and drink festivals

Many of these take place on or around the high street, making it the perfect spot for locals and visitors to get together.

History

One of Tenterden’s most fascinating stories is its unexpected maritime past. Although the town now lies several miles inland, it was once closely connected to the sea.

During the Middle Ages, ships could sail up the River Rother to the nearby port of Small Hythe, which became an important centre for shipbuilding.

Over time, the river silted up and the coastline gradually shifted, leaving Tenterden inland.

The Kent & East Sussex Railway is one of Britain’s best-loved heritage railways and an integral part of Tenterden’s character.

Stretching 17 km between Tenterden Town and Bodiam, the line takes passengers for “a nostalgic journey” through the scenic Rother Valley to view a 14th-century structure, Bodiam Castle, which is regarded as “one of the best loved and best known castles in England”.

Combining rich railway history with some of the finest countryside in Kent and East Sussex, it remains one of the region’s most popular visitor attractions.

The town is home to Chapel Down Winery, which provides tours and tastings of its award-winning wines, ciders, and spirits, according to WorldAtlas. The town also regularly plays host to arts and crafts fairs and folk festivals, amongst them a free-entry community festival taking place this summer.

Tenterden is a popular base for exploring both Kent and East Sussex, and within 20 minutes, you can also reach:

• Rye
• Romney Marsh
• Bodiam Castle
• Great Dixter
• Sissinghurst Castle Garden
• Camber Sands

The island’s dark history of forced labour and harrowing conditions for prisoners of war has left a haunting legacy

In the late 19th century, this isolated Japanese island was a bustling town fuelled by its coal-mining industry. Today, it’s gradually being swallowed by the sea and reclaimed by nature, but given the island’s sinister past, perhaps it’s for the best that this once-thriving community has fallen into silence.

Hashima Island sits roughly 15 kilometres off Nagasaki, and was formerly a mining settlement. At its height in the late 1950s, the island housed more than 5,000 residents who lived in its towering apartment blocks — the ruins of which remain visible today.

Initially renowned for its undersea coal mines, the island also harbours a deeply troubling history.

The island was purchased by Mitsubishi in the late 19th century, and in 1916, work commenced on apartment blocks to house workers. There was a school, a kindergarten, a community centre and a hospital.

For leisure, residents could head to the cinema or visit the numerous shops, reports the Express.

Following the end of World War 2, Chinese and Korean prisoners of war were forced to labour on the island, either erecting buildings or toiling in the mines. These prisoners endured appalling and perilous conditions under Mitsubishi’s control.

Many perished from exhaustion and starvation — the precise death toll on the island ranges from 137 to as many as 1,300.

The people who laboured here dubbed the island “Jail Island” or even “Hell Island” — a stark contrast to the tranquil mining town it seemed to be. By the 1970s, coal reserves had largely run dry and the industry was in terminal decline.

This prompted many residents to abandon the island, and by the mid-70s, the mine had shut its doors for good, leaving the island completely deserted.

In 2009, Japan put forward a request for the island to be added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The move drew sharp criticism from the governments of North and South Korea and China, with Seoul arguing it would “violate the dignity of the survivors of forced labour”.

Eventually, South Korea and Japan struck a deal allowing the island to be included on the list, on the condition that Japan provided information acknowledging the use of forced labour.

However, in 2021, it emerged that Japan had failed to honour its side of the agreement, having not displayed adequate information regarding the use of forced labour.

The museum in Nagasaki, which documents the island’s history, reportedly contains no testimonies from Koreans about forced labour or discrimination, and the sole Korean testimony on display actually denies that forced labour was ever used.

The town offers a rich history, seaside attractions and world-famous treats – and even if it’s raining, it’s still pretty amazing.

Spring has sprung here in the UK, and we’ve been treated to some excellent weather in the past couple of weeks. With more of the same hopefully on the horizon, it’s the perfect time to start planning a beach trip or two.

Britain is home to so many amazing spots, and you don’t even need to let the unpredictable weather put you off. There’s one I have been visiting since childhood that’s bustling in summer without being too crowded, but even if it’s raining, it’s still pretty special.

Largs, a charming coastal town on Scotland’s west coast, is roughly an hour’s drive from Glasgow. Renowned for its Viking museum, classic amusement arcades, and ferry crossings to the Isle of Cumbrae, it’s a destination many Scots will have probably visited during warm summer spells.

But even when the heavens open, there’s still plenty to enjoy. During a family getaway, we loved our rainy seaside strolls, ate some superb food, and even saw a few Vikings – all without a hint of sunshine.

This lovely town located on the Firth of Clyde boasts everything you’d want from a coastal retreat, with a wide selection of hotels and accommodation options.

We stayed at the Old Rectory, a stunning holiday property accommodating up to 14 guests, complete with a hot tub and plenty of space for relaxing. One of Largs’ best aspects is how close you are to the waterfront wherever you happen to be.

The Victorian seafront is brimming with attractions, boasting an impressive array of restaurants serving everything from traditional fish suppers to mouth-watering Thai food.

Largs holds enormous historical significance as the site of a pivotal battle in 1263, which marked the end of Viking influence in Scotland.

The Vikingar museum gives a captivating window into this history, though for a more immersive experience, the annual Largs Viking Festival is highly recommended. As luck would have it, the festival was taking place during our August visit, featuring battle re-enactments, live entertainment, and some striking costumes.

Beyond its Norse heritage, Largs is just as famous for its art deco ice cream parlour, which has been drawing crowds for generations.

Nardini’s, affectionately known as Scotland’s most famous cafe, has earned its reputation thanks to its wonderfully inviting atmosphere, alongside its outstanding ice cream. Like Vikingar, it boasts a superb waterfront location, making it an ideal spot to enjoy a scoop or two of your preferred flavour.

In addition to their wide selection of cakes and light snacks, it’s a brilliant option for lunch or a quick bite while wandering along the seafront.

Walk into the town centre and you’ll discover delightful narrow streets packed with independent gift shops, eateries and even more ice cream parlours.

On one particular morning, we opted for brunch at Perk — a vibrant café full of plants and books, boasting an impressive menu to match. The vanilla matcha was a delight, and the feta and avocado waffles were simply too tempting to resist.

Still hungry after your meal? There’s a tempting cake display brimming with pastries and other sweet treats available to take away.

While Largs may not have the familiar high street names, it more than makes up for it with a fantastic range of independent traders stocking one-of-a-kind items.

A large market marquee is home to sellers offering everything from organic dog food to wooden lamps, jewellery, soaps and even tarot readings — you could quite easily spend hours wandering.

If you want to head further afield, jump aboard a short ferry crossing from the harbour to the Isle of Cumbrae, home to the charming town of Millport.

The island is small enough to cycle around in just a couple of hours, with a well-deserved pint awaiting you at the end before a swift 10-minute sail back to the mainland. Nearby, the magnificent Kelburn Castle stands proud — a stunning park and estate that hosts its very own summer music festival.

It’s brilliantly suited to families too, boasting several playgrounds, cascading waterfalls and plenty more to discover, all within a 10-minute drive from Largs. However, truthfully speaking, Largs alone offers more than enough attractions to keep you busy for a day trip or a full weekend getaway.

If you happen to visit on a sunny day, it’s just perfect. But even if it’s raining, don’t worry – it only makes those coastal strolls all the more invigorating and the cosy ice-cream parlours even harder to resist.