steampunk

IF I had wandered through the centre of Nantes alone, I might not have noticed something peculiar about France’s sixth biggest city.

I would have simply gazed appreciatively at the tree-lined boulevards, the grand chateau and the Corinthian-columned opera house.

Thanks to a guide, though, I was encouraged to look up at the shop fronts, head behind an apartment block and approach a statue from the correct angle.

There were pigs’ heads over the top of a butcher’s wearing wigs, an urban mini-jungle behind the nondescript building and a bronze figure’s foot stepped off the plinth.

All very quirky, all very Nantes.

Once the largest port in France, this former industrial metropolis in the Loire region has been busy reinventing itself as a playful and vibrant place to be.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

HOLI-PAY

Will I get a refund if my Spain or France holiday is cancelled due to wildfires?

None of this is more obvious than on the city’s island, where part of the docks have been transformed into a major tourist attraction.

And I didn’t need anyone to point out the totally unique selling point of the Les Machines de l’Île ‘theme park’.

There was no missing the 40ft-high mechanical elephant, able to carry dozens of excited visitors.

But you might want to be careful where you stand, because the trunk sprays water at surprised passers-by.

Le Grand Éléphant wanders freely around the island and you don’t need to stump up any cash to get close to it.

The other elements of Les Machines de l’Île, albeit for paying guests, are similarly wondrous.

The Carrousel des Mondes Marins was inspired by the Nantes-born 19th century author Jules Verne.

The ride has mechanical sea creatures that visitors can operate, paying tribute to Verne, whose most famous novel is Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea.

Close by, a cavernous port building has been transformed into the Gallery Of The Machines, where I saw guests riding a pneumatic spider and a giant ant.

This steampunk-style attraction is unlike anything I’ve seen before.

In a world obsessed with screen entertainment, the machine animals are refreshingly hands-on.

Back in the main part of Nantes, I experienced other examples of this quirky approach to public attractions.

In the west of Nantes, there is the appropriately titled Jardin Extraordinaire exotic park with a man-made waterfall and a nest-like viewing platform designed by Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata.

The botanical gardens feature a mound shaped like a sleeping cat and oversized benches.

Helpfully, a green line is painted on the city’s streets so you can find your way to most of the artworks.

Visitors in July and August can expect far more open-air art during the Summer Journey festival.

But there is certainly more to Nantes than its cultural offerings.

We were never far from a bar, cafe or restaurant, particularly near the central Hotel De France Oceania, where we stayed for three nights.

The 4* hotel, with its grand domed entrance, was an 18th-century mansion, and our spacious room overlooked the opera house.

We dined at the opulent La Cigale brasserie, which is a local institution, and at the British co-owned Pilgrim restaurant serving modern dishes.

On the hipster Rue du Maréchal-Joffre, we ate at L’Éphémère bistro which has mastered unpretentious gourmet food.

The colourful fishing village of Trentemoult and the cute restaurants on house boats near Saint-Mihiel bridge are also fantastic.

A highlight of our trip was a journey up the Erde river, lined by chateaux and vineyards, on a traditional wooden boat with La Toue de Nantes.

There are numerous boat trips available in the summer months — and you can even sample local wines and produce as you sail along.

Public transport is free in Nantes on weekends and, if you pay for the Pass Nantes, access to attractions such as the Gallery Of The Machines is also free.

Like its famous son Verne, Nantes serves up a wonderful adventure.