Spains

Milo Boyd visited Bilbao in the Basque region of Spain – a hilly and green city known for its excellent food scene, great climate, cheap beer and the iconic Guggenheim Museum

It’s not every day you go somewhere and think ‘this is the future.’

China’s towering metropolis Chongqing, where fast food arrives by drone and monorails connect skyscrapers, and Seoul, with its ultra-trendy, perfectly made-up population and world-conquering pop music, are the most obvious, shiny forms of tomorrowland.

But there is a place that is a gentler, far more liveable and cooler version of the future, less than two hours from the UK.

“Everything here just works,” a British friend told me shortly after my Vueling flight from Gatwick landed in Bilbao. “And it’s really vibey.”

He had moved to the Basque city of 350,000 after visiting from Malaga and instantly falling in love with its laidback trendiness. Like him, before arriving, I knew nothing about Bilbao beyond the Guggenheim, something I put down to its lack of classic Spanish holiday ingredients. It’s five miles down the Nervión River from the sea and often shrouded in cloud, meaning beach days are tricky. Free tapas with drinks are not a thing, nor are all-inclusive hotels.

But visit, and you’ll soon forget all about that. Because Bilbao delivers art, music and food better than almost any city I’ve been to.

The Guggenheim is the obvious place to start. It towers up above the river, chrome-tile plated buildings designed by Frank Gehry to look like ships sailing into town. When it opened in 1997, the Guggenheim supercharged Bilbao’s transformation from an Atlantic port town into Spain’s premier cultural spot.

The gallery is better than I could’ve imagined. In the 55m central atrium, Jenny Holzer’s LED display scrolls triply to the ceiling, accompanying visitors as they walk up the floating staircases. Whether Richard Serra’s massive rusted maze sculptures, Jeff Koons’ huge floral puppy or Andy Warhol’s One Hundred and Fifty Multicolored Marilyns, there’ll be something for you in there. If somehow there isn’t, the building, with its swooping walkway that emits steam and blasts of fire at night, beneath a towering road bridge and in the shadow of mountains, will keep you entertained.

Bilbao is far from a one-trick museum pony. The Basque Museum sits in a 17th-century former Jesuit college in the Old Town, giving voice to the region’s working people and history of struggle in a razor-sharp space complete with giant dolls standing sentry in the courtyard. The Maritime Museum takes you down to the docks and through Bilbao’s rise as a centre of iron and wool trading. A small mark against the city’s futurist credentials – no mention is made of Bilbao’s role as a shipmaker in Spain’s trans-Atlantic slave trade, a detail no UK museum would now omit.

The air-conditioned museums provide respite from the summer sunshine, as does walking along the river’s banks. A cooling breeze often licks off the water, the wind rolling down from the surrounding green hills. Locals call the valley El Botxo (the hole), due to the way the city is hidden away beneath the hills and protected from the ferocious Spanish sun.

More exposed are your legs. Bilbao’s extreme hilliness has you sweating up hills and clambering up Calzadas de Mallona’s 350 steps. Outdoor elevators provide assistance in parts of Santutxu, where high-rises cut into the slopes make it one of Europe’s most densely populated neighbourhoods. Locals beat the hills by riding electric scooters and cooling off at the numerous free water taps.

These public amenities make you feel looked after. As do spotless streets, hosed down each night, and a city centre river clean enough to house shoals of fish. Socialist tendencies and well-funded public works are baked into Bilbao. It produced the iconic Euskalduna dock strike, gave rise to the communist icon Dolores Ibárruri, and was central to the Basque Separatist Movement.

Bilbao’s days of industry are behind it, replaced by a booming service-led economy, but its leftist tendencies remain. They are visible in the graffiti, children’s playparks dotted along the riverside, and the virtually free public transport system (just make sure to buy a Barik card before you board the airport bus to avoid being ripped off).

Its more recent transformation to a truly international city is obvious in the food.

Like Barcelona and other northern cities, Bilbao specialises in small plates called pintxos, best eaten beneath a parasol in Casco Viejo. Unlike many other parts of the country where it can be tricky to find non-Spanish cuisine, you can enjoy Europe’s 17th best pizza at Demaio, Vietnamese/Mexican fusion at Perro Chico, a vegan build-you-own plate at Margarito, a hefty focaccia at Molica and much, much else.

All of this can be washed down with half a liter of Spanish lager that rarely costs more than three euros.

Although Bilbao is not as well-connected as the country’s bigger cities, Vueling flies from Heathrow, Gatwick and Edinburgh, with flights occasionally available for £14. From my experience, the Spanish flag carrier delivers a mid-range service for budget prices. It’s a little roomier, the loading smoother, and the staff that much cheerier than its rivals.

A hassle-free way, then, to get to this future-facing city.

Madrid warns of ‘proportional measures’ if Rome does not put an end to checks amid fallout from Ceuta migrant crisis.

Italy has doubled down on its temporary reinstatement of border controls following the deadly rush of thousands of migrants into the Spanish enclave of Ceuta, even after Madrid threatened retaliation.

In a statement on Friday, the Italian government said it would not bow to “ultimatums or impositions” from ⁠Spain and would maintain border controls until at least August 15.

The refusal came hours after the Spanish government declared a two-day deadline for Italy “to rectify, put an end to the checks and treat Spaniards like other European citizens”.

“If it does not do so before the end of Sunday, August 9, Spain will be obliged to adopt proportional measures to protect the interests and dignity of its citizens,” Spain’s statement said.

The diplomatic tit-for-tat unfolds as Spain continues to reel from the influx of some 72,000 people who crossed into Ceuta from Morocco last week, on foot and by sea.

Mass arrivals in the North African Spanish enclave angered other European Union leaders who have taken a hard anti-migration stance, including far-right Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni.

Italy earlier said it would temporarily reintroduce border checks with Spain starting on August 1 in what Meloni called an “extraordinary measure” seeking to “safeguard national security and prevent possible repercussions for our nation”.

Yet experts said there was little prospect of migrants travelling from Ceuta to Italy, particularly as Italy and Spain do not share a land border. Rights groups instead pegged Meloni’s move as “political theatre”.

Still, 22 EU member states signed a joint letter accusing Spain of “pull factors” that destabilise the bloc’s borders.

The vast majority of the Ceuta migrants have since returned to Morocco as authorities tallied at least 100 deaths.

Also on Friday, Spain said its police successfully dismantled a people-smuggling operation believed to have brought 2,000 migrants into the country via Spain’s southeastern coast and the island of Ibiza.

Unaccompanied minors

Amid the political fallout, Spanish leaders are grappling with a humanitarian crisis still ongoing in Ceuta.

Of the few thousand undocumented migrants who remain in the enclave, at least 1,342 are children, Youth Minister Sira Rego said on Friday – hundreds of whom are unaccompanied.

Rego acknowledged “painful images” of children sleeping on Ceuta’s streets, noting that two schools had been opened as authorities evaluated more locations as possible reception centres.

Still, Ceuta authorities said at least 1,100 children needed assistance, with Ceuta’s theoretical capacity only totalling 90 places where people could be housed.

“It might only be a matter of a few weeks before we start seeing [children] transferred to and welcomed on the mainland,” Rego told reporters.

Local and international charities have cautioned that the children face abuse and exploitation.

Jose Miguel Morales, head of Federacion Sur Acoge, a migrant rights and assistance group in southern Spain, said some of the children were under 14 years old and had already been beaten and assaulted.

But the transfer of children to the mainland has become a domestic flashpoint in Madrid, where Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez’s government approved 25 million euros ($29m) to help support unaccompanied minors in the territory.

Leaders from the far-right, anti-immigration Vox party were quick to say they opposed any aid for migrant children.

Vox leader Santiago Abascal wrote on X that “not one euro from Spaniards” should go “for illegals, for invaders”.

Hundreds of residents in Spain’s North African enclave of Ceuta gathered to oppose a planned far-right anti-migrant rally, forcing organisers to cancel the event amid heightened tensions following a temporary influx of migrants crossing from Morocco.

More than 1,500 migrants have reached Spain’s North African enclave of Ceuta by sea over the past week, many swimming from Morocco using wetsuits and inflatables. Local authorities say reception centres are overwhelmed and have called for an emergency response.

Estimates of up to 2,000 migrants have entered Spain’s territory of Ceuta in recent days in attempts to reach Europe.

Authorities in Ceuta have raised the alarm after thousands of migrants breached the border to the North African Spanish enclave from neighbouring Morocco in recent days.

The government of Ceuta said on Thursday that between 1,500 and 2,000 people had entered in the last 10 days. Hundreds more were estimated to have arrived on Thursday, prompting regional President Jesus Vivas to declare an “absolute humanitarian and social emergency” and call on Madrid to send troops to reassert control of the border.

Spain’s Interior Ministry rejected calls to declare a national emergency, saying such a measure does not cover migration crises, but promised additional resources.

Footage showed some of the migrants shouting “Viva Espana!” as they entered the territory, many of them having travelled by water from the Moroccan side on inflatable devices.

Crowds were shown walking around the breakwaters onto local roads, reported The Associated Press news agency. State news agency EFE said others had crossed by the border by land, scaling fences.

Migrant rights activist Zakaria Zarroqui told the Reuters news agency that the surge in migrant numbers was similar to one that occurred in May 2021, when some 10,000 Moroccan and sub-Saharan youths entered ⁠the enclave within days.

“The situation remains out of control as we speak,” ⁠Zarroqui said, adding that people were still flocking to the Moroccan city of Fnideq in an attempt to cross the border.

Ceuta, together with Melilla — another autonomous ‌Spanish city in North Africa — represents the European Union’s only land border with Africa. Both cities often experience surges in attempted crossings by people seeking to migrate to Europe.

Earlier this month, Spain’s Supreme Court ruled that migrants intercepted at sea while attempting to reach Ceuta or Melilla cannot ⁠be returned to Morocco.

“It has been a slow trickle since the Supreme Court’s ruling, but today has been an explosion,” ⁠a Guardia Civil spokesperson told Reuters.

Spain’s Interior Ministry said it was working closely ‌with Morocco to address the surge in irregular arrivals, blaming people-smuggling networks for exploiting the Supreme Court’s ruling and encouraging undocumented migration.

Interior Minister Fernando Grande-Marlaska is expected to visit Ceuta on Friday to evaluate the situation.

More than half of Madrid’s population turned out to celebrate La Roja as the players returned to Spain following their World Cup victory over Argentina. The team paraded through the city centre on an open-top bus, showing off the trophy to fans.

Spanish fans spent the night partying in Madrid after their team defeated Argentina 1-0 in the final of the World Cup. Al Jazeera’s Natacha Butler reports from the heart of the celebrations in Madrid.

Spain and Lamine Yamal have grown through the tournament to leave him with the world at his feet and football’s two greatest prizes in his pocket.

As well as having glorious natural gifts, he is also Spain’s lucky charm. They completed their domination of the international stage with Ferran Torres’ decisive 106th-minute strike in extra time.

Lamine Yamal has yet to lose for his country in the 28 competitive matches he has played. He has started 13 games at major tournaments and won all of them – the longest 100% win rate of any European player across major tournaments when starting.

He also became – along with 19-year-old Spain team-mate Pau Cubarsi – just the fourth and fifth teenagers to start a World Cup final and win, after Pele for Brazil in 1958, Italy defender Giuseppe Bergomi in 1982 and Kylian Mbappe with France in 2018.

Spain coach Luis de la Fuente spoke afterwards of his “sincere gratitude” to Lamine Yamal.

“He has played great football that will help him to mature and be even a greater footballer than he already is,” he said.

“He really sacrificed for the collective good. This is very important in my squad. In my opinion he played a great World Cup.”

And this is not simply a special talent, it is a special talent with a special temperament.

He shrugged off Argentina’s obvious attempts to intimidate him as he regularly came into close contact with Nicolas Tagliafico in particular.

Former England goalkeeper and BBC Sport pundit Joe Hart summed it up well.

“Not only did Lamine Yamal not react,” he said. “He stood up to it. He was not rattled and he did not back down. He had the entire team trying to smash him.

“He just stayed real cool. It was real standout performance from him.

“Lamine Yamal is 19 years old. What a beautiful day for him. He’s 19 and has completed football.”

With virtually his whole career in front of him, and taking in the experience and influence of Spain team-mates such as his captain and player of the tournament Rodri, there is every chance Lamine Yamal will add more successes like this before he is done.

Lamine Yamal insists he would take no fear into Spain’s World Cup semifinal against France when both sides meet after he celebrated his 19th birthday.

The Barcelona prodigy raised eyebrows following Spain’s 2-1 quarterfinal defeat of Belgium last week after being quoted as saying that France rather than Spain ought to be “afraid” given recent defeats against La Roja.

A relaxed-looking Yamal addressed those comments as he spoke to reporters on Monday at a press conference.

“I was asked if I was afraid of France, and I said no,” Yamal explained. “We are European champions. It’s simply football,” the teenager explained.

Yamal said he had marked his 19th birthday by buying a chunky jewel-encrusted necklace he wore to his press conference. The real birthday present, though, would be a place in Sunday’s World Cup final.

“I haven’t received many gifts yet. The best gift would be a win on Tuesday and a trip to New York,” he said.

While other stars at this World Cup have been in blistering goal-scoring form, Yamal so far has only found the net once during the tournament – but is ready to add to his tally against France.

“I don’t focus on goals, but it’s always special to score in a match like this. I accept the challenge. That’s why I came here,” Yamal said, promising a “beautiful match for the spectators”.

“It’s the game everyone was waiting for,” he added.

While acknowledging the momentous nature of Tuesday’s game, Yamal remained laid-back in his approach.

“There are far more difficult situations in life than a football match, so I’m calm,” he said. “I don’t feel any extra pressure; I’ll go out and play like always and give my all for the team.”

‘We’ve known each other for a while’

Spain coach Luis de la Fuente says his team plan to go on the “front foot” against tournament favourites France when they face off in a heavyweight semifinal showdown.

De la Fuente’s Spain will attempt to impose their possession-based game on France in what is shaping up as a gripping clash of styles.

While France coach Didier Deschamps insists Spain remain favourites for the World Cup, betting markets overwhelmingly back France to clinch a second title in three attempts.

Les Bleus have powered into the last four with a scintillating brand of attacking football based around such talents as Kylian Mbappe, Michael Olise and Ousmane Dembele.

But De la Fuente, whose team have beaten France in their last two meetings, is quietly plotting another ambush at the AT&T Stadium in Arlington, Texas on Tuesday.

“We’ve already analysed France in great detail; we’ve known each other for a while now,” De la Fuente said.

“We faced each other for a few years now, and they have great players, but so do we. We have to put all of our virtues on the table and try to counteract the strengths of the opponent.

“And that’s what football is about – the team that strikes a better balance is usually closer to getting the victory.

“We’ll have to think about their players. We’ll try to win those duels and will try to be on the front foot during the game, imposing our style.”

France ‘far better’

De la Fuente, though, is under no illusions about the difficulty of the task facing his side.

France, he said, have improved significantly since Spain defeated them 5-4 in a hectic UEFA Nations League semifinal in Stuttgart last year, when the Spaniards led 5-1 before a late French rally. That encounter would bear no resemblance to Tuesday’s game, De la Fuente said.

“We’re talking about two very different matches,” he admitted.

“Tomorrow is another semifinal. I will just try to repeat the positive scenarios, but there were other details where things weren’t that positive.

“We were winning 5-1, and in a few minutes they managed to make it 5-4. So we’re trying to repeat what we did well and the opposite of what we didn’t do well.

“We need to try and impose our game. We have completely antagonistic playing styles, so we’ll try to be on the front foot and take the initiative.”

De la Fuente also believes a maturing France squad will be a tougher proposition.

“I think they are a better team, far better, because those players have grown, and what they are doing now is better than what they were doing then,” he said.

“So they’ve improved their skills in the past two years, and that’s the reality.”

While controlling possession and tempo will be key, De la Fuente will also tell his players to savour the challenge. Asked what his final message to his team would be, he replied: “Let’s get out there and enjoy it.

“We are in a unique setting. Who knows whether we will come back? We must be the team that we know that we can be. We must be strong and try to counter the strength of the opponent.”

For much of an international career that began a decade ago at the age of 19, Oyarzabal has not enjoyed much of the limelight.

He missed out on the 2022 World Cup in Qatar with a ruptured anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in his left knee.

But four years later – and before a World Cup debut – he was in the form of his life with 12 goals in 12 international appearances.

The double against Austria extended that run to 17 in his last 16 starts, with four goals at this tournament.

“His last two seasons, since he recovered, are the best of his career,” added Balague.

“Four goals in the World Cup – our most decisive player, no doubt.”

Spain memorably played without a recognised striker at Euro 2012, but Oyarzabal is now very much the focal point of their attacks with two excellent finishes against Austria.

“Sometimes people are in doubt about Spain because of the centre-forward, but Oyarzabal is doing the job,” former Spain defender Cesar Azpilicueta told BBC One.

“A few years ago, Oyarzabal was playing a bit more on the right wing and he has transitioned more into the middle.”

Since the start of last year, the only European player with more international goals than Oyarzabal is Norway striker Erling Haaland with 22.

He also became the first Spanish player to score twice in a World Cup knockout match since Emilio Butragueno against Denmark in the last 16 of the 1986 tournament.

The statistics are impressive, but it is not to say he is overshadowed by Lamine Yamal, with the 18-year-old playing a key role in Oyarzabal being able to shine.

The Barcelona forward’s excellent ball control and dribbling skills clearly unsettles defences and pulled the Austrian defenders towards him to create more space for Oyarzabal.

“When you have someone in your team like Lamine Yamal who attracts so much attention, you know you will get more space,” said former Germany midfielder Thomas Hitzlsperger.

“Oyarzabal uses that space, gets the ball, and scores goals.”

Halfway across the first glacial depression, I leave the footpath to stand on a snow patch, disturbing a spider that runs off across the frozen crystals. A few yards farther along, the mountainside is awash with colour: tiny Alpine flowers alive with bees and crickets in a world surrounded by jagged peaks. A pair of chamois watch from a crag, then clatter off up an almost vertical face. Having stopped walking, I’m cooling down fast and put on a jacket. I am in Spain, I tell myself, during a European heatwave.

When I tear myself away from the wildlife, my hiking group are distant dots on a path that is snaking up a wall of rock. This is the Picos de Europa mountain range in northern Spain, a cluster of peaks rising to more than 2,500m and famed for the steepness of its slopes. I set off in pursuit, catching up with the group as they scramble over a ridge to find an unexpected view: a gun turret from a second world war aircraft carrier that is now a mountain refuge hut. (Cabin Verónica was cut from the USS Pulau in 1961 at a Bilbao breakers’ yard and dragged up here by mule.)

The custodian, Jorge, took it on as a project eight years ago and has since made it his summer home, adding solar power and water tanks to the gleaming aluminium dome. “I love it,” he says, grinning while he makes coffee in the tiny kitchen. “Why would I need cities and crowds when I have this?” The panoramas are spectacular. Far below, down the valley, a bearded vulture is soaring, one of a small number successfully reintroduced in 2005. The hut sleeps a maximum of six, too small for our group, but it’s popular with climbers and solo walkers.

This trip seems determined to throw up contradictions and improbabilities. For a start, on the Portsmouth to Bilbao ferry, I was alone on deck at 5am, surrounded by a cold fog so dense that I couldn’t see the waves below the rail. We were motionless, it seemed, in the outer reaches of the cosmos. As I stared down, the intergalactic mist lifted a fraction and three dolphins burst from the swell, reminding me that I was on planet Earth and not a spaceship. This ferry route, and its sister route to Santander, crosses an oceanic canyon 4,000m deep and cetacean sightings are common. The on-board expert, André, tells me he has seen orcas and several whale species, including the rare Cuvier’s beaked whale.

The Picos mountains that stand to the west of Bilbao have always had a reputation for the unexpected. In Spanish history, they were a centre for resistance to Roman rule and later the Moors. They have flowers and butterflies not found elsewhere; the chamois is a unique subspecies, and there are bears and wolves too. Beneath the soaring peaks lies another surprise: an underworld network of rivers and giant caverns almost a mile deep.

Our hike across the range started to the north, walking first up to the mountain hut Vegarredonda at 1,410m. There’s a sprinkling of these huts across the Picos, most off-grid and supplied by mule. Expect good conversation, generous food portions and a plastic-covered mattress in what some might call “a snoremitory”. I am saved by the generosity of Arten, one of our group, who hands me silica gel earplugs. They work well, and in the morning I wake to find everybody already gone to breakfast.

Food is a major element of the Picos experience. That morning we hike to a few stone cabins by a lake, Ercina, and come across a handwritten sign advertising homemade cheese. Bruno and Cristina, our guides, get very excited. In a little stone-walled workshop, an old lady is sitting on a rustic milking stool, dressed in a nylon housecoat, waiting for customers.

“My grandfather built this cabin in 1944 when I was three years old,” says Maria. “Everyone would come up here for summer, bringing their animals with them. Now there’s only me.”

Hung on the walls are her ancestors’ drinking horns and wooden platters; on the shelves are wheels of cheese. The Picos technique is to blend milk from sheep, cows and goats. The results are delicious. “I feared this tradition might die,” Maria says. “But my son is interested, so there is hope it will continue.”

Leaving Maria, and still eating the cheese, we turn up a side valley and ascend steadily, passing boulders that harbour tiny gardens of saxifrage and stonecrop in their hollows. A wallcreeper flits away, one of the rarer birds that live here. Chamois pose on distant ridges, never far from the snow patches. Their world is shrinking, however, as Spain’s heatwaves encroach higher and higher. (I was glad to have travelled by ferry; as a foot passenger I produced less than 10% as much CO₂ as flying, according to the Direct Ferries carbon calculator.)

The night is spent in the Refugio Vega de Ario, a hut with the best cooking, and also hosting the Oxford University caving team. After more than 60 years of exploration and several generations of speleologists mapping some of the most extensive cave systems in the world, they tell me they are on the brink of connecting two huge cave networks. I promise to come back and see it – when the stairs are installed.

The next day, we cross one of the few places where you will see a car in the Picos, the village of Poncebos, which is on a fine gorge walk alongside the Rio Cares. From there, we ascend again through flower-strewn meadows and abandoned farmhouses into the clouds. Then, with perfect dramatic timing, the mists part to reveal the climactic wonder of these mountains: the Picu Urriellu, a soaring 2,529m pinnacle of rock under which is one of Europe’s most spectacular mountain huts, the Vega de Urriellu.

This is one of the most popular huts and sleeps 96, with many more camped nearby, but the place remains friendly and sociable. We stand outside with Bruno and Cristina as they point out their favourite climbing routes. Around us are small huddles of climbing groups discussing their plans. The south face is popular with guided groups; the west is a 750m monster.

The glacial depressions, with their spiders and flowers, lie ahead, but this is where I would choose to linger. You would not catch me down a cave, but I’m tempted by what Bruno describes as excellent climbing routes. As the sun goes down, the rock turns orange, giving Urriellu its Spanish name, Naranjo de Bulnes – the Bulnes orange.

Dusk falls, and I stroll up a mountain track for more panoramas, but find the world below the hut all smothered in cloud. I perch on a boulder and, after some time, become aware that I am being watched. A chamois is standing poised on a ledge above, its delicate curving horns silhouetted against the twilight like twin question marks. I watch the last orange glow fade on Urriellu’s summit, then glance back to that ledge, but the chamois has gone.

The trip was provided by KE Adventure Travel; the eight-day traverse of the Picos starts at £1,295, including all meals, accommodation and guides. Brittany Ferries sails up to twice weekly from Portsmouth to Bilbao and Santander, and from Plymouth to Santander, from £128 for foot passengers in August

Sharp, fearless and brimming with confidence, Lamine Yamal drifted past defenders with ease and injected life into Spain’s attack. There was a sense of inevitability about what would follow.

When the breakthrough came, it was fittingly his.

A low cross flashed across goal and Yamal arrived at the back post, sliding in to convert and score his first World Cup goal.

The Atlanta stadium erupted as fans cheered, danced and chanted Lamine’s name. This was the superstar they had come to see.

Guillem Balague, speaking on 5 Live, said he saw Lamine Yamal walking out looking around like he had just conquered the world.

“Is it arrogance? Or confidence? A mixture of both,” he said. “He is the chosen one, he wants to be the chosen one.

“He is so happy in the role he is taking on as leader of the team. He told me once that his joy when he plays football is seeing the same reaction when he used to play five-a-side.’

Yamal became the seventh player in history to score at a World Cup before turning 19, and only the second aged 18 or younger to open the scoring in a match, the other being a 17-year-old Pele for Brazil against Wales in 1958.

Wayne Rooney was highly complementary of the teenager – the comparisons to Lionel Messi inevitable.

“For Messi and Cristiano Ronaldo, the application and dedication they’ve had is the reason they are both playing in this World Cup,” the former England forward told Match of the Day. “They have done everything right. Hopefully Yamal can do that.

“What is really impressive to me is when Messi came in to that Barcelona team, there was some top players and a crossover with Ronaldinho.

“[Yamal] has come in to the Barcelona and Spain team and it is his team, he is the main man.

“Everyone is looking to him to win. [He was] a big part of winning the Euros and will be a big part of this World Cup. That is what really impresses me, he is taking the pressure on at such a young age. You hope he can do that for the next 15, 20 years.”

THERE are some destinations around the world that are so beautiful, they don’t look real.

The pretty fishing village of Cudillero in Spain is one of those, having even been called ‘staged’ it’s so perfect.

The village is in the north of the country looking out directly over the Bay of Biscay and sits in a horseshoe shape at the bottom of the Cantabrian Mountains.

It’s known for its brightly-coloured stacked houses at the front of the harbour that have led visitors to describe it as ‘charming’ and even ‘staged’.

One even called it “the most beautiful village in Spain” and like “stepping back in time”.

The village dates back to the 13th century and is well known for its fishing, which it continues with today.

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You’ll even see the traditional methods being used like hanging fish out to dry in the streets.

But thanks to this, there are plenty of seafood restaurants to explore like Casa Julio and Sidrería El Remo which have been recommended by visitors.

Not only is fish popular here, but it’s also known to serve the region’s speciality cider which is a little different to what you’ll find in the UK as it isn’t bubbly.

Lots of restaurants will serve local cider and pour it traditionally as well.

They use a technique called ‘escansiado’ which translates to ‘throwing’.

The drink is poured from a height, often above the waiter’s head into a glass held near their waist.

Thanks to its surrounding hills and mountains, a popular activity to do in Cudillero is hike to one of its viewing points.

One of the most popular is Mirador de la Garita where hikers can see over across the village to the lighthouse.

Many say it’s a ‘must-do’ whilst in Cudillero, not to mention it’s the perfect spot for photos.

Being a harbour town, Cudillero doesn’t have beaches of its own, but there are some nearby.

Playa de Aguilar is a 10-minute drive away and is a long-stretch of golden sand, but don’t expect the sea to be too warm as its in the north of the country.

It’s described as a family beach as it’s got fine sand as well as lifeguards during peak summer periods.

If you’re visiting on June 29 then you will get caught up in Cudillero’s annual festival where there are fanfares, street parades and bands.

It celebrates the village’s maritime history and it’s completely free to go down and see the live events.

A visit doesn’t have to cost a lot either, Sun Travel found a one-night stay in July at Pensión El Pozo from £30pp.

The room has a private bathroom with mountain views and there’s even a picnic area.

To get to Cudillero from the UK, the quickest way would be to fly directly to Santander.

Flights depart from London Stansted, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh – which you can do for as little as £16 each way.

Then drive just over two hours along the coast to Cudillero.

TRAVELLERS heading to Barcelona are missing out on one of Spain’s top hidden gems that is just two hours from the city.

Think clear waters and whitewashed houses and you could easily be forgiven for believing you were on a remote Greek island, when actually you are in the Spanish fishing town of Cadaques.

And what’s even better is that if you head there this week or next, temperatures will reach up to 27C.

Recently named one of the “best hidden coastal towns” in Europe by British Airways, Cadaques sits on the Cap de Creus peninsula on the Costa Brava and boasts a rocky coastline with hidden beaches and fewer crowds.

In the town centre, visitors can explore narrow, cobblestone alleyways that once inspired several artists including Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse and Salvador Dali.

In fact, visitors can even head to the Salvador Dali House-Museum, which was home to the surrealist artist for 40 years.

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Inside, you’ll see the rooms where the Dalí family lived as well as Dalí’s studio, which has been preserved just as the artist left it with artist tools and unfinished canvases.

Outside, visitors can explore the gardens and courtyards, which feature olive groves and spot a number of giant white eggs.

If you do wish to visit, make sure to book in advance, as reservation slots fill up quickly.

Back in the historic quarter of the town, you’ll also find the Church of Santa Maria, which has a baroque altar inside.

Make sure to look out for Casa Serinyana too, which is also known as The Blue House.

The Art Nouveau home was built at the beginning of the 20th century for the wealthy Serinyana family, who were traders in the town.

Heading down towards the sea, you can visit two small rocky beaches – Platja Gran and Platja Port d’Alguer – both have crystal clear waters ideal for a swim.

The Natural Park of Cap de Creus, which is huge, completely surrounds the town.

It is a great area to go hiking, especially to the highest point Sant Salvador Peak, which is 670 metres above sea level.

The park includes both land and sea areas around Cadaques, but make sure to check access restrictions before your visit as during the summer months parts of the park are closed to cars.

If you don’t like hiking, the parts of the park that include the coastline and make for great spots for snorkelling.

According to Instagram user @liafische Cadaques “feels like a place where time stands still”.

Another Instagram user said: “It truly felt like I was transported to an Aegean island”.

When it comes to somewhere to stay, you could opt for Villa Salvador, which is an adult-only hotel between Pere Fet Beach and Ros Beach.

The accommodation has a mix of villas with sea views, rooms and suites, and there’s also an outdoor salt pool.

It costs from £269 per night for two people.

Alternatively, you could stay at Hotel Calina in either a room or studio from £114 per night with access to sprawling gardens, a huge pool and a children’s pool.

To get to Cadaques, you could fly to either Girona, which is about an hour and 20 minutes away, or Barcelona.

You could fly to Girona in June from £15 or to Barcelona in June for £13.

To get to the town, there is only one way into and out of Cadaques along a narrow, winding nine-mile road that heads through the mountains.

Alternatively, you can hop on a shuttle bus called the Sarfa Bus from Figueres Bus Station, which sits outside the park and heads directly to the town, taking about an hour and 20 minutes.

June 6 (UPI) — Pope Leo XIV landed in Madrid Saturday to begin his one-week papal visit to the country, the first in 15 years.

Leo was greeted at the airport by King Felipe VI and his wife Queen Letizia, then addressed them at the Royal Palace along with politicians and diplomats.

He acknowledged political polarization and called for an end to it in Spain and elsewhere in the West.

“I come among you to affirm, encourage and instill a renewed fidelity to the Gospel among believers, as well as a deeper reconciliation and collaboration among the various elements of this nation,” the first American pope said.

“In reality, the message of peace, which at present unfortunately strikes some as naive and others as confrontational, is welcomed by those who do not shut themselves off in preconceived ideologies, but are rather open to the truth,” Leo said.

Spanish Deputy Prime Minister Yolanda Díaz told the Washington Post that the left in Spain embraces the pope.

“The [left’s] alignment with Pope Francis was immediate: He defended Spain’s labor reform and the Episcopal Conference also supported it, something that would have seemed unthinkable 20 years ago,” she said. “With Leo XIV, that alignment deepens.”

The Spanish far-right are battling the Church, which they believed an ally. They are particularly upset over the church’s advocacy for migrants, The Washington Post reported. The left once saw the Church as complicit in the Franco dictatorship.

“The far right in Spain wants to copy the far right in the United States,” Bishop José Mazuelos Pérez, who heads a Canary Islands diocese providing shelter, food, blankets and medical care for arriving migrants, told The Post. “To go to war with the bishops over the issue of migration.”

On Monday, Leo will address the Spanish parliament, which is gridlocked. He’s expected to discuss that type of polarization, and his other visits around the country highlight differing segments of the Church.

He will have a prayer vigil with young people Saturday, then march Sunday in a traditional Spanish street procession.

On Thursday, Leo plans to visit the Canary Islands, a landing for Latin American migrants and for those arriving by sea from the African coast. He is planning to visit Lampedusa on July 4, an Italian island where migrants from Africa and beyond land.

On his flight to Spain, Leo acknowledged that he would be competing popular with Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny, who played the Super Bowl halftime show this year, for Spanish attention. Bad Bunny is scheduled to perform in Madrid Saturday night.

Leo said that more young people are turning to the Church, looking for something more.

“If they are confronted with the question: do they want to see Bad Bunny or do they want to see the pope, I think many will see Bad Bunny,” Leo said. “But I think there will also be a few here to see the pope. And that says something.”

On Sunday, the pope will celebrate mass on the feast of Corpus Christi in the Plaza de Cibeles. There will be a Corpus Christi procession, the Vatican said. He will also meet privately with members of the Order of St. Augustine to which he belongs.

Later, he will go to a gathering of representatives of culture, arts, business and sports at Madrid’s Movistar Arena.

The Vatican spokesperson Matteo Bruni said, “Leo XIV’s trip to Spain is a sign that, despite the secularization of society, the pope still has something to say in many areas, in Spain and in Europe, where he can play a constructive role in public debate,” Euro News reported.