Perched high on the battlements of Almería’s 10th-century Alcazaba, looking over the mosaic of flat roofs tumbling down to the sea, I’m reminded of author Gerald Brenan’s travel classic South from Granada, and his impression upon arriving in Almería in 1920: “Certainly, it seemed that the sea was doubly Mediterranean here, and the city … contained within it echoes of distant civilisations.”
A British adventurer, Hispanist and fringe member of the Bloomsbury group, Brenan had walked to Almería from where he was living near Granada, apparently to buy extra furniture in preparation for a visit from Virginia Woolf and friends. A century later, my journey here in a 30-year-old van from London is somewhat less notable, but as I marvel at the almost surreal incandescence of the Med, and the maze of ancient streets below me, I too am aware of a sensation of time travel.
Illustration: Graphics/Guardian Graphics
Brenan would have been a novelty visitor back then. And even today, unlike Málaga, just a couple of hours down the coast, Almería is little visited by international tourists, although the similarities between the two cities are striking. Both are ancient ports of beguiling tree-lined streets, a sparkling beach, a Moorish fort, and a 16th-century cathedral, yet Almería has so far remained under the radar, while Málaga is battling the effects of overtourism. Almería is reminiscent of the old Málaga, before its 1990s makeover, when its reputation as a sketchy port city was transformed by major investment and the overhaul of its waterfront into a soulless shopping and eating development.
Almería is 120 miles east along the coast, in Spain’s impoverished southeastern corner, in Europe’s only desert, and on the edge of the continent. Closer to Morocco than Madrid, it feels like an outpost. There is a tangible sense of being far away from the action – and the funding – but with a new high-speed rail service incoming from Madrid in 2027, and the development of the docks over the next few years to accommodate luxury cruise-ships, including green space, its status as the rough diamond of Andalucía may be about to change.
For now, Almería remains a living, working port, unpretentious in its charm, where ornate but gently crumbling townhouses sit alongside faded mid-century shopfronts, and the tang of diesel and fish in the salty air remind you that its waterfront is strictly for business. While Málaga’s port is now a top destination for superyacht spotting, the main purpose of Almería’s docks is as a ferry terminal for services to Algeria and Morocco. The border feels porous here, the nearby streets more like an extension of north Africa, with signs in Arabic advertising ferry tickets, stores offering Moroccan tea glasses and a handful of African fishers mending nets.
Casa Puga tapas bar. Photograph: Luis Dafos/Alamy
If you don’t mind the walk out of town, through a truck-park wasteland of sun-bleached concrete warehouses, you’ll be rewarded by a sumptuous seafood feast at bar 900 Millas, a genuine hideaway, wedged between loading bays, serving fresh catches from the adjacent fish market. Come at 4am on a weekday for breakfast with the fishers, or join the Almeríenses, dressed to the nines for Sunday lunch.
We stayed in the serene Hotel Catedral, a 19th-century palatial house in the centre of town on the pedestrian Plaza de la Catedral. Its rooftop bar offers close-up views of the cathedral and across to the partly restored Alcazaba, illuminated every night in its hilltop setting.
Wherever you wander in Almería, the Alcazaba looms above. Under the clean Mediterranean sunlight, its cool stone walls, cypress and palm trees, and gardens of flowing water channels provide a haven of rosemary-scented tranquillity. If you’ve ever been herded around Granada’s Alhambra in a strict time slot, a morning at Almería’s Alcazaba is the antidote. Entry is free to European citizens (including Britons), and you can explore at leisure, taking in the spectacular 360-degree views, from the arid mountains behind, to the glittering sea and the narrow streets of La Chanca, the city’s historic Arab quarter, below.
Historically home to Gypsies and fishers, La Chanca plays a significant role in Almería’s identity. A jumble of cave homes and tiny houses, tumbling down the hill to the docks, by turns rough and romantic, it served as a source of inspiration to the Movimiento Indaliano, an avant garde artistic and cultural collective that emerged here after the second world war. A permanent collection of the movement’s paintings, many featuring scenes and the people of La Chanca, is displayed at the Doña Pakyta art gallery in the city centre, providing a captivating insight into mid-century Almería.
‘If you’ve ever been herded around Granada’s Alhambra in a strict time slot, a morning at Almería’s Alcazaba is the antidote.’ Photograph: Marek Stepan/Alamy
Near the Alcazaba, the Moroccan cafe Teteria Almedina serves hot mint tea and chilled mint lemonade on a verdant terrace. In the old town, there are tapas bars at every turn, always packed. At Casa Puga, one of Almería’s oldest tapas bars, you’ll be lucky to squeeze through the door, let alone get a seat. Almería is one of Europe’s sunniest cities, where a four-hour siesta is adhered to like a religion (don’t try to get anything done in the afternoon), and the weekend is devoted entirely to socialising. As we wander from heaving plaza to heaving plaza, I’m envious of this fierce dedication to leisure. There is a pleasing sensation of the 20th-century’s analogue ways still holding sway.
Almería, the city and the province, is an outlier, not just geographically, but also spiritually, says José Antonio González Perez, of the local tourist office: “We are not like the rest of Andalucía. We have our own dialect, our own cuisine. But for a long time, we have been forgotten.”
This spirit of independence is tangible in the pride shown in Almería’s cultural heritage. The fascinating guitar museum celebrates the expert luthier Antonio de Torres Jurado, considered to be the father of the modern guitar, who was born and died in the city. The cinema museum and a walking trail reveal the locations of the many films that have been shot in the city and the surrounding desert, including Sergio Leone’s spaghetti westerns, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Lawrence of Arabia. There’s even a Russ Meyer-inspired bar, La Mala, tucked away down a side alley.
For a small city Almería’s nightlife and creative spirit are strong. The ever-busy Picasso bookshop is an institution, with a full diary of author events; Paseo79 sells affordable works by local artists; and local music collective Clasijazz has transformed hundreds of lives with its grassroots conservatoire, dedicated to training young musicians, running jam sessions, and putting on gigs.
Isleta del Moro in Cabo de Gata-Níjar natural park. Photograph: Luis Dafos/Getty Images
While Almería boasts its own 2-mile urban beach, it also makes a perfect base for exploring the wilder coast of this corner of Andalucía, and the Cabo de Gata-Níjar natural park. This 180 sq miles of wilderness is Europe’s only desert, hence its role in doubling for the American west in so many films. Its beaches are unspoiled by development, with just a scattering of tiny white villages nestled in coves, their swaying palm trees and bursts of red, pink and purple bougainvillaea mirroring the coast of north Africa across the water. Inland, the Sierra Alhamilla and the ancient Moorish village of Níjar in the foothills, known for its handicrafts including traditional glazed ceramics and jarapas (Andalucian woven rugs), are worth a visit too.
When Gerald Brenan arrived in Almería, his impression was of “a bucket of whitewash thrown down at the foot of a bare, greyish mountain. A small oasis …” He only intended to buy furniture and head back, but while waiting for money to be wired, he became embroiled with a local rascal who led him astray, into the fleshpots and seafarers’ drinking dens. It clearly made an impression on him, as he continued to be drawn back to Almería over the years, describing it as a “poetic” city with a “lost”, “forgotten” atmosphere. He said it produced an excitement in him he had not felt in other Spanish cities. As someone who has been exploring Spain for many years, I know exactly what he means.
SEMANA Santa – also known as Holy Week – is the biggest religious festival celebration across Spain.
During a recent trip to the country, I experienced this nationwide event after staying in a local town and was left stunned how different it was to our Easter.
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Semana Santa is the biggest religious celebration across SpainCredit: Martha GriffithsIt starts on Palm Sunday and carries on in the days leading up to Easter and I was lucky enough to be thereCredit: Martha Griffiths
Starting on Palm Sunday (March 29 this year) the days leading up to Easter see towns and cities hosting long, dramatic processions.
While cities like Seville and Malaga are famous for their huge crowds of tourists and locals, I discovered the tradition feels much more authentic in a small town.
Oliva, in the Valencian region, is usually calm and laid back, especially compared to Spain’s tourist hotspots.
But during this Holy Week, the town is transformed as the streets I had walked down earlier that day were transformed at night.
Huge ornately decorated floats (pasos) were carried by ‘cofradías’, or brotherhoods made up or local religious groups, including neighbours, families and friends.
The procession started in baited silence, even from the kids.
It was then that the drums began, with haunting brass create a sombre tone.
Hooded figures, or ‘nazarenos’ emerged from the darkness as they moved in unison, with costumes typically only revealing the eyes (designed to make it about the faith rather than the person underneath).
While it certainly sounded eerie, I had never seen anything like it and was swept into the atmosphere along with everyone around me.
I felt like I was part of the local community, as the smaller towns are less focused on making them tourist-friendly.
There are so many other events also on during the week. For example, at 4am on Good Friday, locals climb the nearby mountain barefoot while carrying the floats.
Seeing the small-town community coming together at this hour, sacrificing sleep and comfort showed just how deeply Semana Santa runs here.
But as the week unfolds, the mood slowly shifts from mourning to celebration.
Sweets are thrown in the streets on Easter Sunday, celebrating the resurrection – a definite highlight for the local kids.
Food plays a massive role during Easter traditions, with their pastries stealing the spotlight.
At 4am on Good Friday, locals began their ascent up the nearby mountain, barefoot and carrying religious floatsCredit: Martha GriffithsAs part of the festival, towns have a long processions with live musicCredit: Martha GriffithsThe celebrations also involve traditional pastries, such as Mona De Pacuas – soft, brioche-like breads covered in chocolates and creamCredit: Martha Griffiths
Mona De Pascua – soft, brioche-like breads covered in chocolates and cream – are everywhere.
Traditionally gifted by godparents to children on Easter Sunday, they remain a staple throughout Semana Santa.
Bakeries are filled with them all week and sharing one feels like another way the town comes together to celebrate.
Experiencing it in such a small town away from the tourists and city spectacles is incomparable to just reading about it.
The elaborate floats, music and outfits make it an unforgettable experience – and certainly more of a celebration than the Brits eating hoards of chocolate instead.
I went in curious and came out completely blown away. It was unlike any Easter I have experienced in the UK.
FORGET the white sand beaches of the Caribbean – actress Michelle Keegan has opted for a quiet and beautiful village in Majorca for her latest holiday.
The tiny destination is in the heart of the Tramuntana mountains, but is right next to the coast and is within walking distance to a little bay with clear waters.
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Deia is a beautiful mountain village near the coast in MajorcaCredit: AlamyMichelle Keegan has posted being in Majorca on her social mediaCredit: Instagram
We’ve all heard of Majorca, the Balearic Island loved by Brits gets over two million visitors every year.
Lots will flock to the capital of Palma, but there are so many other beautiful spots to explore – and Michelle Keegan is exploring it right now.
The former Coronation Street actress posted images of herself enjoying the Spanish sunshine on Instagram.
So what is there to do in the pretty village of Deià?
The coastal village has the best of both worlds as it’s tucked away in the mountains and is minutes from the coast.
To explore Deià, be prepared to take on a hill or two as visitors do comment on how steep the cobbled streets are, with the highest point being the church.
The roads are narrow too so your best bet to get around is taking a local taxi, walking or hiring a bike.
Just a short walk from the village is Cala Deià, a small pebbly cove that has crystal-clear waters and is popular for swimming and snorkelling.
One visitor said: “It is very rocky but absolutely gorgeous and great for swimming.”
Another added: “This cove is amazing – we are already ready to return.”
If you get peckish, there are cliffside restaurants including Ca’s Patró MarchandCan Lluc.
Cala de Deià is just a short walk from the hilltop villageCredit: Alamy
Check out this Majorca hotel near a beautiful beach cove…
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Gavimar Cala Gran Costa Del Sur, Majorca
This hotel sits on Majorca’s Cala Gran Beach, a beautiful cove just a short drive away from the coastal town centre, with its trinket shops and relaxed bars. The hotel itself has all the activities and entertainment you’d expect, including bingo and live music – as well as some unique extras like mini golf and archery. Week-long breaks start from £478pp.
Back in the 1980s Richard Branson transformed the crumbling mansion into a luxury hotel – which he then sold in 2002.
The Belmond Hotel has pretty suites, a swimming pool and is surrounded by palm trees.
Luckily it’s not all luxury hotels. At Hostal Villa Verde which has simple rooms with enviable views, holidaymakers can book a stay from £60 per person per night.
There are lots of local restaurants to try too. One visitor recommended sitting on the terrace at Es Punt to try padrón peppers and patatas bravas.
Another is Restaurante Miró which has a beautiful patio area and visitors have said it’s a great place to watch the sunset.
If you want to explore Deià, head to Majorca’s capital of Palma and from there it’s a 40-minute drive.
Michelle has also shared snaps of her exploring the neighbouring destination of Valldemossa.
It’s another mountain village which sits around Real Cartuja, a huge palace and monastery.
Just like Deià, Valldemossa is considered one of the most beautiful towns and villages in the country.
THERE’s a Spanish city that is set to be nearly 30C this week – and luckily for Brits it’s less than three hours from the UK.
Seville’s got everything Spain has to offer from affordable wine to beautiful plazas and free flamenco performances.
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Plaza de Espana is one of the most well-known landmarks in SevilleCredit: AlamyIt has four pretty mosaic bridges over the canal
This week, temperatures in Seville are set to soar with highs of 27C, according to the BBC.
Thanks to its location in southern Spain, Seville often sits 17C and higher – even in the winter months.
It’s very easy to get to as well with direct flights from all over the UK although the cheapest is with Ryanair, who has £14.99 flights from London Stansted next month.
When it comes to what to do there, you’ll be spoiled for choice at the riverside city with lots of beautiful sites and great food for affordable prices.
On average, a meal at an inexpensive restaurant start from £10.50.
As for wine, it tends to sit between £2.50 and £3 – depending on where you go within the city.
Plaza de España is one of the biggest and most well-known landmarks in Seville.
It’s a huge semi-circular plaza stretching over 50,000 square metres with four bridges sitting over a canal decorated with brightly coloured mosaic.
It’s a favourite spot within the city for pretty pictures, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot a free flamenco dance.
If you want to get out onto the water, you can rent pedalos for a few euros.
The square even doubled as the planet of Naboo in the second Star Warsfilm.
In the middle of the city is the enormous Seville Cathedral – which is the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world.
You can choose to go inside if you wish, but as someone who has been you can see plenty of its grandeur from outside.
Seville Cathedral is the biggest Gothic cathedral in the worldCredit: Alamy Stock PhotoThere are lots of horse and carts around the cathedral – and palm trees too
But if you want to head inside a standard ticket costs €13 (£11.25).
Other hot spots include the Real Alcázar palace and La Giralda tower.
Travel Reporter Alice Penwill visited the city two years ago. She said: “I loved strolling about Seville, particularly the Alfalfa neighbourhood.
“It’s got plenty of pretty little cafes and restaurants to explore – one of my favourites was Casa Toni which cooks up tasty paella.
“Salvador Square is beautiful in the morning time, take a stroll there and make sure to pick up some brunch from Sagasta.
“It has outdoor seating too so you can bask in the spring sunshine.”
She said: “The Royal Alcázar of Seville, a palace dating back 1,000 years, offers limited free tickets on Mondays between 6pm and 7pm.
“Or for Seville Cathedral, there are 100 free tickets a day between 2pm and 3pm.”
Kara’s favourite bar is El Rinconcillo which is the city’s oldest tapas bar which dates back to 1670.
And you can get a huge glass of wine for £3.
Our favourite Spain holidays
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Hotel Best Punta Dorada, Salou
The Spanish resort is a popular destination near PortAventura World, a theme park with over 40 attractions and huge rollercoasters. It’s also close to sandy beaches like Platja de Llevant, and the scenic Camí de Ronda coastal walk.The hotel itself has an outdoor swimming pool to enjoy, as well as two bars along with evening entertainment and shows.
With its palm tree-lined pool and Mediterranean backdrop, it’s a miracle this Majorca resort is so affordable. Expect a classic family holiday feel – where days revolve around soaking up the Spanish sunshine, chilling by the spacious pool and sipping on frozen cocktails. Set away from the busier resorts, it’s a good option if you’re after a more out-of-the-way escape.
The Magic Aqua Rock Gardens Hotel is African-themed and less than a mile from the beach. It has two outdoor pools, including a children’s freshwater pool with a waterfall and a tipping water bucket for the little ones. There’s also an aquapark with slides, and a kids club for both younger children and teens.
For a calmer side of Ibiza, this hillside resort has two pools, a kids’ splash zone, and an all-inclusive buffet with a poolside bar. It’s a 10-minute walk from Cala Llonga’s shallow turquoise bay, offering a scenic, family-friendly base away from the island’s main party zone.
Travelling with kids can be stressful, but a new data analysis has revealed some of Europe’s most child-friendly city breaks which offer accessibility and plenty to keep kids entertained
The city is a family-friendly choice(Image: Getty Images)
With the Easter break, May half-term, and bank holidays coming up, many parents will be looking for ways to keep the kids entertained. While you might not have considered taking younger kids on a city break, it can be a fun option if you’re looking for a short break.
That’s why LateRooms has put together the Family Breaks Index– a data analysis that pulls together information that’s of interest to people travelling with young children, such as flight and transfer times, walkability, accessibility for those bringing pushchairs, and the child-friendly attractions on offer.
Coming in at number three is a Spanish city that has long been popular with Brits for city breaks, and its short flight time and easy walkability have seen it score highly for family trips too.
Barcelona flights are just over two hours from the UK, and on arrival, visitors can hop on the airport train to the centre, which takes just 25 minutes. This makes it ideal for people travelling with young children who wouldn’t be able to do a long journey.
The city has a flat, walkable centre, with many major tourist attractions just a short walk apart. This means it’s easy to navigate with a buggy, and little legs won’t get worn out from a day of sightseeing.
According to LateRooms, the city has about 400 family-friendly attractions, so you won’t have to deal with kids complaining they are bored. To start, there are classic tourist attractions such as the Sagrada Família and Gaudí’s unique and colourful Park Güell, both of which are impressive enough to keep kids enthralled.
Kids love science museums, and Cosmocaixa is an unforgettable day out. One of Barcelona’s largest museums, the entire experience is interactive, full of engaging activities that teach kids about the creation of the cosmos. The museum takes visitors on a journey through the natural world, from the past to the present.
Tibidabo Amusement Park is a great place to see views of the city and enjoy charmingly old-fashioned fairground rides. It’s set on a hill that overlooks Barcelona, and as you ride the Ferris wheel or drop rides, you can enjoy seeing the city below.
A dream day out for kids could well be the Museu de la Xocolata, the chocolate museum, where you can see huge sculptures made from chocolate, including kids’ TV and film characters. It also runs chocolate tasting and making workshops, and once you’ve explored, you can indulge your sweet tooth at the café with a rich and creamy hot chocolate.
One advantage of Barcelona over other city breaks is that it also has a beach nearby, so you can explore the city in the morning and let the kids swim or build sandcastles in the afternoon. The seaside neighbourhood of La Barceloneta is popular with families thanks to its access to a long sandy beach, and it has its own metro station, making it easy to get around the city.
In May, flights to Barcelona start from just £27 one way based on flights from London-Luton with Wizz Air. The weather in May often hits highs of 23C with little rain, making it an ideal time of year to explore.
La Mangais a 13 mile long strip of sand which is known for its shallow, popular swimming waters and its salt water lagoon.
Visitors have compared it to looking like Florida‘s West Palm Beach and even Miami.
Rooms at the AluaSun Doblemar hotel on La Manga cost as little as £46 per night.
It’s the biggest resort and sits on the beachfront – it daily activities to keep guests entertained, outdoor pools, all-inclusive dining, and a kids’ club.
Another spot holidaymakers might want to consider is Cartagena.
It’s the second largest city in the Region of Murcia and is well-known for its 2,000-year-old Roman theater.
It also has a busy port, seafood restaurants, and Calle Mayor is the busy shopping street with independent shops and boutiques.
There are plenty of beaches too like Playa de Calblanque tucked away in a National Park south of La Manga and the Blue Flag Playa de Calnegre.
La Manga is on the Costa Calida coastline and has been compared to looking like FloridaCredit: Alamy
She said: “There are also places around it like Cartagena which, when I started on the show, wasn’t a desirable place, but now it comes up more and more.
“In the Murcia region and Almería, you could get a two-bedroom apartment with a pool in a complex for £100-£120k, and that’s good in this day and age.
“We still have people that can make £80k stretch in the south of Spain, so Murcia is a place to buy in before it gets too expensive.”
To get to the Costa Calida is simple too because Brits can fly into Murcia Airport and head south.
One-way flights from Bournemouth to Murcia start from just £15 with Ryanair in April.
Chris Webber, Head of Holidays and Deals at TravelSupermarket said: “Spain remains one of the most reliable destinations for British holidaymakers seeking value, and with budgets still under pressure, it pays to be a little flexible about where you go.
“Costa Calida in particular stands out – it consistently delivers on beaches, weather and facilities, but tends to fly under the radar compared to the likes of Costa del Sol or Costa Blanca, and that’s reflected in the price.”
