spa

The town has been named one of the best places to live in the UK thanks to its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops and easy access to London,

In recent years, I’ve made it my personal quest to discover towns and villages right on my doorstep. I’m lucky enough to call Kent home – also dubbed the Garden of England – which means I’m absolutely spoilt for choice when it comes to stunning towns and villages. One town that keeps pulling me back is Royal Tunbridge Wells. My most recent trip was my third visit to the town – and it certainly lived up to expectations.

Located just 30 miles from London, this spa town has become a go-to location for commuters and boasts a rich history stretching back to the Iron Age. Its famous chalybeate spring transformed it into a fashionable retreat during the Restoration era, attracting visitors seeking its healing waters and the legendary Pantiles. Today, tourists still pour in, lured by the Pantiles – a stunning Georgian colonnade sitting at the town’s centre – alongside its boutiques, quirky cafes, restaurants, bars, and the chalybeate spring.

What really makes the town stand out is its exceptional ‘Royal’ title, a distinction held by just three towns in England. King Edward VII granted the prefix in 1909 to acknowledge its enduring appeal with the Royal Family.

With all this going for it, it’s little surprise Tunbridge Wells was crowned one of the best places to live in the UK for 2026 by Muddy Stilettos.

The town earned praise for its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, range of shops, easy access to London, and, naturally, the legendary Pantiles.

The publication stated: “Forget those letter-writing retired colonels: this spa town now pulls in well-families chasing a best-of-both-worlds commuter lifestyle. With yoga studios, art galleries galore and the Garden of England’s apple orchards on the doorstep, this town has it all.”

The town also secured 10th place in the UK in last year’s Better Lives Index.

Compiled by the International Longevity Centre, the index assessed 359 UK districts across nine measures: gross domestic household income, life expectancy at birth and at 65, economic activity for over-16s, inactivity among 50 to 64-year-olds, pollution density, child poverty rate, avoidable mortality, and the ratio of house prices to earnings.

Despite somewhat changeable weather during my visit, I made the most of the driest day to wander through the town centre and soak up the atmosphere.

For the rest of my trip, I unwound at The Spa Hotel – a historic sanctuary nestled within 14 acres of beautiful grounds just beyond the town centre.

This was our third visit to the hotel, which has firmly established itself as a personal favourite, owing to its tranquil spa facilities, mouth-watering dining options, welcoming staff and luxurious rooms.

On this occasion, I was fortunate enough to wander the grounds, uncovering breathtaking countryside vistas, a picturesque pond and spring flowers just waiting to burst into bloom.

It comes as little surprise that the hotel has become a sought-after wedding venue, something we witnessed first-hand on the second day of our stay.

The stunning hotel boasts a restaurant and bar, a heated indoor pool, a gym, steam room, sauna, and a brand-new Wellness Suite.

So, should the weather prove unsuitable for venturing into town, there’s still a wealth of activities to enjoy within the hotel itself. On earlier visits, snow and thunderstorms had confined us indoors for entire weekends, yet with room service, superb spa amenities and a cosy bar, being kept inside felt far from a hardship.

Despite feeling delightfully secluded in the countryside, the hotel is just a stone’s throw from the town centre. A short five-minute drive brings you into town, with ample parking on hand. Alternatively, you can take a leisurely 20-minute stroll downhill, or, as we opted to do, catch a local bus from right outside the hotel entrance.

The town itself ranks among the most stunning I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. The Pantiles are a particular highlight — a collonaded walkway that transports you back in time, with the majority of its buildings dating from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Many of the shops and cafes in the Pantiles are independent, with Collared, a dog accessory and gift shop; Trevor Mottram, a kitchenware shop; and the cosy cafe Eggs Eleven among my top picks.

During this trip, we finally sampled the celebrated water from the chalybeate spring. At the far end of the Pantiles, a vending machine dispenses glass bottles of this distinctive, iron-rich mineral water, renowned for its unique flavour.

Uncovered by Lord North in 1606, the mineral spring rapidly earned a reputation for its extraordinary healing properties, thought to remedy everything from ailments and infertility to hangovers and obesity.

In 1629, the Queen of England drank the spring water and shortly afterwards gave birth to Charles II, who was said to owe his life to the famous waters. The spring also drew other royals, including James I, Queen Anne, and Queen Victoria.

The water itself tasted remarkably pure – considerably better than tap or many bottled waters, without any of the usual chemical aftertaste. The glass bottles also make delightful keepsakes, ideal for reusing as vases or candleholders.

The remainder of the day I spent wandering around the town, browsing shops and enjoying the sunshine. If you’re eager to shop, Tunbridge Wells has plenty on offer, from independent boutiques to familiar brands like Anthropologie, Space NK, LUSH and Fenwick, many of which are located in the town’s shopping centre, Royal Victoria Place.

After spending the day browsing the shops, we headed to Roddy Burger, a local independent eatery renowned for its freshly prepared food. Arriving among the first customers, we ordered a succulent chicken burger, a halloumi burger, chips, and beer-battered pickles. Both burgers were exceptional, washed down with a non-alcoholic lager for me and an ale for my husband. It was my first experience of battered pickles, and I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious they were – the salty, sharp pickle worked brilliantly with the crispy batter.

The team were genuinely lovely, and the restaurant’s quirky interior and lively music created a chilled, inviting atmosphere. If you’re after a laid-back dinner venue, I’d absolutely recommend popping in.

While I didn’t manage to visit Halstead Bakery on this occasion, I’ve only ever heard glowing reports about it. Situated on the same road as Roddy Burger, this independent bakery is celebrated for its handcrafted bread, pastries, and baked treats made using local, seasonal produce. It holds an impressive 4.8 out of 5 rating on Google, with customers singing its praises for “incredible pastries and great coffee.”

One review states: “Delicious fresh bakes with innovative and vibrant flavour combinations. We’ve had so many different things from this bakery – the croissants are crispy, puffy and cooked to perfection; their speciality scones are not to be missed; and the cardamom buns are fragrant and moist. Friendly atmosphere and helpful staff. Highly recommend!”

I’ve also popped into Fine Grind on the High Street during a previous trip, a delightful coffee shop that boasts it has served “the best brews in town for 13 years,” according to its Instagram. The coffee is truly outstanding, particularly when enjoyed alongside one of their cakes or pastries. A word of warning: it becomes extremely busy at weekends!

One of the greatest advantages of visiting Tunbridge Wells is its excellent transport links. Regular buses operate in and out of the town centre, while trains can reach London in roughly 45 minutes. Although my journey from the Kent coast takes over two hours, those travelling from Canterbury, Ashford, or Maidstone can arrive in just 60 to 90 minutes, depending on their chosen route.

The local taxi services in Tunbridge Wells are also excellent, though Uber operates in the area too if you’ve got the app.

While I thoroughly enjoy my visits to Tunbridge Wells, one aspect consistently lets it down: the general reception of locals. Although hotel and hospitality workers are invariably pleasant and accommodating, I discovered the atmosphere around town to be rather less welcoming. People frequently barged past without apologising or acknowledging when I held doors open, which left me feeling somewhat unwelcome.

Hailing from a small town, I’m accustomed to a neighbourly environment; people smile while passing and chat at the till. Perhaps I’m simply unaccustomed to the more distant character of larger towns, where residents are less acquainted with each other.

If you’re thinking about a laid-back staycation this summer, Royal Tunbridge Wells is a brilliant option — ideal for browsing shops, exploring historic sights, or just taking it easy without venturing far. Just bear in mind, you might not receive the warmest welcome from residents…

Situated in the south west of Germany, on the border of the iconic Black Forest mountain range, the city has jointly been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site

If you’re thinking about a trip to Europe, but want something a bit off the beaten track, one “hidden gem” with historic spas, Roman ruins, and incredible museums could be just the ticket. Situated in the south west of Germany, on the border of the iconic Black Forest mountain range, the city has, along with Bath in Somerset and nine other locations, jointly been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as one of ‘The Great Spa Towns of Europe’.

Travel influencer Katherine McQueen, who has 685,000 followers on Instagram, where she is known as vineyardsandvoyages, posted a look into everything the city has to offer. She said: “This is one of Europe’s most elegant hidden gems… and most people skip it.”

Describing the city as “polished, romantic, and completely different from the bigger stops most travellers add to their itineraries”, she hailed its “pastel streets, grand architecture, thermal baths, elegant cafés, beautiful gardens, and old-world glamour around every corner”. But it was the history which she hailed as its most important element.

“People have been coming here for the thermal waters since Roman times, and wellness is still one of the biggest reasons to visit today,” she said. “You can soak in mineral-rich baths, wander through historic spa buildings, and experience a side of Germany that feels slow, refined, and deeply relaxing.”

Katherine also praised the city’s glittering casino, food – including, of course, the iconic Black Forest gateau – and location, calling it “one of the most unexpectedly charming places I’ve visited in Germany”.

The city in question is Baden-Baden, located around 15 miles east of the French border, and 42 miles west of Stuttgart.

In the post Katherine explained more about what the city has to offer. “Some of the bathhouses here feel more like palaces than spas, with mineral pools, grand domes, and centuries of wellness history,” she said. “But it’s not just a spa town. It’s also filled with elegant architecture, gardens, colonnades, and beautiful places to wander.”

She added: “The whole city has this refined, romantic atmosphere. Long covered walkways, grand buildings, art, gardens, and peaceful corners everywhere.”

Concluding, she said: “It has that rare mix of history, wellness, food, architecture, and nature, all in one very walkable little city. Everywhere you look, there are details that make it feel grand without feeling overwhelming. This town rewards slow wandering. Hidden side streets, stairways, dreamy corners, and beautiful views around every turn.”

The city’s official tourism website says: “Baden-Baden was founded 2,000 years ago to do people good. Thermal water at temperatures of up to 68 degrees gushes out of the earth from 12 thermal springs in Baden-Baden. Even today, our spa town at the foot of the Black Forest is the perfect place to enjoy spa tradition – whether in the Caracalla Spa or in the historic Friedrichsbad Spa.”

How can I get to Baden-Baden?

By air: Direct flights to Baden-Baden are available from London Stansted Airport. Indirect flights are also available from most other UK airports.

By train: You can take the Eurostar to Paris or Brussels, with various connecting routes available.

By car: You can drive by taking the Eurostar and then heading south east through France, or east into Belgium before crossing, into Germany. Once arriving in France, the route is between 400 and 450 miles, taking between six and seven hours.

IF you’re dreaming of plunging into hot tubs, wrapping up in fluffy robes and sipping glasses of bubbly by the pool – we’ve found some deals for you.

We’ve scoured the internet for UK getaways to luxurious spa hotels for ridiculously affordable prices.

From countryside estates with four-poster beds and manicured gardens, to swanky city-centre hidden sanctuaries, we’ve found a wide range of dreamy escapes.

Here are the best budget-friendly spa staycations you can book right now – with prices from a budget-friendly £42pp.

Woodland spa retreat for two at the 4* Abbey Hotel in Worcestershire

Enjoy a break at the four-star Abbey Hotel Golf & Country Club in Redditch, Worcestershire – a countryside escape just 15 miles south of Birmingham.

This charming hotel sits on a sprawling 175-acre estate, plus you have an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and hot tub to enjoy.

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This Wowcher deal lets you pick from a one or two-night stay, with breakfast and use of the spa facilities included.

Wowcher offer a one-night stay with breakfast and use of the spa facilities starts at £89 for two, and a two-night stay from £185.

Coastal Spa break at the 4* Beaches Hotel & Spa in North Wales

Treat yourself to a spa break in Prestatyn, North Wales, at the colourful coastal retreat The Beaches Hotel & Spa.

On this spa break you can chill out by the indoor pool and enjoy the seaside scenery, plus you can upgrade to include a treatment package such as a hot stone massage or cooling foot treatment.

You also get £25 dining credit per person, so you can enjoy an evening meal in the hotel’s cosy restaurant, or a traditional afternoon tea.

Nearby you can wander coastal paths and dip into souvenir shops in the picturesque seaside town.

Wowcher offer a night’s stay for two with spa access for £99, or you can add on a treatment for each person for a break that will cost £199 total.

Luxurious 4* spa escape to Cadbury Hill near Bristol

Enjoy an escape to DoubleTree by Hilton Cadbury House, a beautiful restored 18th century building overlooking a large shimmering pond.

The four-star hotel is surrounded by beautiful landscaped grounds, which are perfect to explore on a sunny afternoon walk after relaxing in the spa.

The award-winning spa has a swimming pool, sauna, hot tub, thermal suite and gym to make use of during your stay.

Wowcher offer a one-night stay for two with a welcome drink of bubbly, breakfast, and full access to the spa facilities from £84, working out at £42 per person.

Or you can upgrade to a two-night stay from £214 total.

4* Countryside retreat at Greenwoods Hotel & Spa in Essex

Enjoy a stay in the peaceful village of Stock in Essex at the countryside Greenwoods Hotel & Spa.

Here you can unwind in the indoor pool, relax in the hot tub, and enjoy a soothing sit-down in the steam room or sauna after making the most of the hotel’s fitness suite.

Afterwards you can return to a cosy bedroom with a large comfy bed and glamorous decor.

Wowcher offer one night’s stay for two including breakfast and access to the spa facilities from £169, or you can upgrade to two nights from £319 total.

City centre spa retreat at the 4* Leonardo Royal Hotel Tower Bridge, London

You can’t get much more central than a stay at the Leonardo Royal Hotel in London’s picturesque Tower Bridge.

This swanky city hotel has its own gym, swimming pool, spa and sauna – plus you can add-on treatments like body wraps, massages and anti-aging facials.

Groupon offer a one-night stay in a superior king room for two including access to the spa from £128 total.

Countryside spa break at the Hogs Back Hotel & Spa Farnham, Surrey

This grand countryside retreat in Surrey has traditional rooms with four-poster beds, a stylish restaurant and a luxurious spa.

This spa has everything you need, including a large indoor pool, sauna, steam room, hot tub and fitness centre.

Nearby you can visit the impressive Hampton Court Palace, or spot rare species at the British Wildlife Centre.

Groupon offer one night’s stay for two, including breakfast and access to the spa facilities, from £89 total.

Prices correct at the time of publication.

THE Scottish capital is the perfect spot for a weekend break – and we’ve found an affordable but central hotel.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at Novotel Edinburgh.

Where is the Novotel Edinburgh hotel ?

A beautifully-appointed city hotel, the Novotel Edinburgh Centre is extremely well-located, about a ten-minute stroll from the mighty castle and around 20-minutes from Waverley station (although it’s a very hilly walk).

What is the hotel like?

The property is made to feel like a home from home, with plenty of little nooks in the foyer to tuck yourself away in.

Hotel staff are attentive and everything is easy to find.

What are the rooms like?

Guests are well looked after here.

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We were greeted by refreshing fruit kebabs in our room, as well as cold water in the mini fridge, and a tea/coffee station.

There was ample room around our twin beds which meant we weren’t tripping over our luggage.

A shower in a separate room from the toilet made getting ready in the morning easy.

Classic family rooms cost from £168, sleeping up to two adults and two children.

Pets are allowed at an additional charge of £10 per day. See all.accor.com.

What is there to eat and drink?

The on site restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner each day.

The buffet breakfast will keep any adventurer well fuelled with everything from a full Scottish fry up, continental options and a waffle station to cereal, fresh fruit and pastries — there are options for those who are lactose intolerance, too.

There’s ample choice for dinner, too.

I chose a light meal option, the Superfood Salad Bowl (£16) which was packed with paprika roasted chickpea, quinoa, asparagus, beetroot, avocado and feta while my pal opted for a heartier meal of grilled lamb chops (£25).

What else is there to do at the hotel?

Guests have use of a pool, sauna, steam room and gym on site.

Whisky fans will have their pick of tours.

Although choose carefully; a well-established distillery is a better investment if you are fussy about your tipples, although these tend to be a little more costly.

But if you only want to learn briefly about the distilling process and get a few drinks in you, the cheaper options should have you covered.

Otherwise the city’s stunning architecture, modern shops and restaurants are all within easy walking distance

If is family friendly?

Kids aged under 15 stay for free at the hotel, and get free breakfast with every paying adult.

Is it accessible?

The hotel has nine accessible rooms and there is a ramp to the entrance of the hotel, along with handicap parking.

ONE of the oldest lidos in the UK is set to undergo a huge expansion with a new spa and children’s water play area.

Droitwich Spa Lido near Birmingham originally opened in 1935 and is one of the few remaining open-air, saltwater pools in the UK and now, it will get a £12.5million facelift.

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel.

There will be several new features at the lido including a spa experience, a new brine pool, a new reception and a new water play area for little ones.

Other parts of the attraction will be updated, including reintroducing Art Deco features, enhancing the cafe and refurbishing the changing rooms.

Councillor Richard Morris said: “The Droitwich Lido is seen as one of the best in the country and when the public were consulted about the Town Prospectus the residents in Droitwich rated it the area they were most proud of after fighting for it to be reopened in 2007.”

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He added that the final design might evolve, but that the lido is expected to open in the first half of 2028.

Currently, the destination already includes a heated saltwater pool, children’s wet play area, sun terrace and a cafe.

The 40metre lido also sits on vast deposits of salt, which have been extracted from the ground for centuries.

In fact, the natural brine in the town is 10 times stronger than sea water and when the lido first opened, diluted brine was pumped from the local streams into the pool to keep it aseptic.

It was then heated to the temperature of the Mediterranean Sea and marketed as the ‘seaside of Droitwich Spa’, without actually being on the seaside.

The lido previously closed in 2000, but remained a popular attraction with many travelling to just see the once busy open air pool.

Then in 2007, the lido reopened having been completely refurbished, with the water still using a natural brine feed.

Previously, the pool was even named the fifth best in the country by The Times.

The pool is already open for the 2026 season and is heated to between 22C and 26C.

General swim sessions costing from £7.20 per adult for an hour or £9.40 for two hours and £7.20 per child per session.

Everyone craves a spa weekend getaway, but this destination is just a short flight away from the UK and it’s so worth the visit. People even claimed it’s quite “underrated”

Ditch the pricey spa breaks here in the UK and hop on a flight to this unmissable European city instead. If you’re on the hunt for a relaxing weekend retreat, then you’re in for a treat.

A spa weekend can work wonders, not only for your mental health but also for your body, offering deep relaxation, stress relief and improved sleep quality. Now, travellers are singing the praises of one European destination that boasts an “unbelievable” spa complete with indoor and outdoor bars, as well as water slides.

The destination in question is Bucharest, Romania. In a viral TikTok video, a popular travel account told followers to pay a visit to Therme Bucharest – and for very good reason.

In the TikTok clip shared with its 27,200 followers, the video opened with: “A cheap underrated European city break you need to visit.”

It continued: “No joke, I genuinely believe that a trip to this European spa can be cheaper than going to one in the UK nowadays.

“Therme Bucharest is located in Romania and honestly is one of the most underrated city breaks.

“The city itself is absolutely gorgeous and the spa is unbelievable. They have indoor bars, outdoor bars, the most gorgeous botanical interior, face mask that you can use, temples, aqua aerobics, saunas, water slides, it’s honestly massive.”

What does the spa offer?

Therme Bucharest offers three unique experiences to “suit your desires”.

Galaxy: Perfect for family entertainment as it boasts 1.7km of exhilarating water slides, a wave pool and interactive activities for all ages. This is the sole area where children aged 3-14 are allowed.

The Palm: An adults-only pool featuring a retractable roof, mineral pools, hydromassage beds, a pool bar, plus indoor and outdoor relaxation spaces.

Elysium: After a premium experience? This relaxation zone provides thematic saunas, a wide array of wellness therapies, bespoke spa treatments and fine dining experiences.

If you’re planning a visit, ensure you bring your swimsuit, flip-flops and a towel. You can pop to the shop for any essentials.

Ticket prices vary from £20-£50 per adult, roughly 100-250 RON. This depends on the length of your visit, 3 hours, 4 hours or a full day, plus the number of zones accessed (Galaxy, Palm or Elysium).

Spa tickets typically start around £22-£24 for basic access, with extra costs for sauna packages or full-day access.

How much do flights cost?

Amid the ongoing travel disruption around the world, flights from the UK to Bucharest generally cost around £40-£100 for budget airlines like Ryanair or Wizz Air, if you’re departing from London.

Nevertheless, average return prices are often near £169, with premium or last-minute flights potentially higher. Direct flight time is approximately 3 hours 10 minutes.

It was 6.30am, the cockcrow slot at Jubilee Park lido, and still not quite light. I hadn’t wanted to come this early – it was the only time I’d been able to book. But as I slid into the pool – heated to a delicious 29C – I realised it was a gift. Vapours rose dreamily into cool air laced with owl hoots and the whiff of dewy blooms, and I swam into a sunrise that became more vivid with every stroke. A man in the next lane paused to admire the reddening dawn too; he was hungover, he said, but had come to do his morning lengths nonetheless. A cure of sorts.

Bath, Harrogate, Buxton – Woodhall? This Lincolnshire village isn’t one of Britain’s headline spa towns. Most probably don’t know where it is – 18 miles (29km east of Lincoln, for the record. But at the turn of the 20th century, Woodhall Spa was among the most fashionable places to be seen, to be healed.

Those wellness-seekers didn’t come, as I had, for the 90-year-old lido (open April to November). They came for the springs. In 1821, a hopeful entrepreneur sank a mine shaft here, prospecting for coal. He discovered water instead, which was found to be high in iodine and bromine, thought to be beneficial for everything from rheumatoid arthritis to gout. The first proper bath house was built in 1838; trains arrived in 1855. Woodhall Spa was on the map.

The village’s Edwardian heyday is long gone. The railway has closed, the baths are no longer in use – the original building is now a beauty salon. But Woodhall Spa still has a deeply restorative feel. With its broad, leafy avenues, red-brick and half-timber villas, protective shroud of trees, numerous cafes and delis, and promise of simple, bygone pleasures, it’s like a safety blanket; a place to escape the world’s horrors for a few days.

Tina Delaney, a director at Woodhall’s Cottage Museum, agrees. She came here on holiday from Bedford six years ago and ended up staying: “My husband describes it as moving 100 miles north, 80 years back in time.”

The little museum occupies a rare 19th-century prefab of yellow corrugated iron and documents Woodhall’s history, from its early fortunes to its part in the second world war. The 1st Airlanding Brigade trained here for Operation Market Garden, the ill-fated plan to seize bridges in the occupied Netherlands; of the 2,500 men who left, fewer than 500 returned. Many became prisoners of war. Also, Squadron 617 – the Dambusters – were briefly stationed at RAF Woodhall Spa; the officers’ mess was in the grandiose mock-Tudor Petwood Hotel. I wandered there after the museum and sat on the terrace, looking out across the elegant gardens with a half of Petwood Bomber ale.

While officers hung out at the hotel, lower ranks frequented the Kinema in the Woods. This late-19th-century sports pavilion was converted into a cinema in 1922 and nicknamed the “flicks in the sticks” by airmen, who were shown top-secret reconnaissance films here. It is now a cinephile’s delight. The lobby is all rich reds and movie memorabilia, with separate counters for popcorn and ices. In screen one, deep-plush seats face a stage through which a Compton organ sometimes rises, played by the resident organist – but sadly not for my showing. There was an intermission, though, during which I devoured local-made Dennetts’ apple pie ice-cream.

When I emerged the owls were hooting again and I headed back to Bainland, an 18-hectare (45-acre) holiday park of reclaimed-timber lodges on the edge of the village, large but nicely done. My lodge was smart and cosy, set on a teeny lake. The next morning I breakfasted outside, listening to acorns smack the decking, watching mallards skim through perfectly reflected trees.

I was in no rush. My plan was to borrow one of Bainland’s bikes and make the most of Lincolnshire’s flatness. First, I headed north-east. The railway, so key to Woodhall’s former prosperity, may be defunct but its old trackbed forms part of the off-road Spa Trail, an easy ride (around three miles) to Horncastle, via ancient woods and excellent sculptures: there are steel Viking ships and oversized plants, nodding to Sir Joseph Banks, the botanist on Captain Cook’s first Endeavour expedition, who grew up near Horncastle. Banks also brought the canal to Horncastle, transforming it from backwater to busy market town. The canal, which I followed briefly, is quiet and unnavigable now; these days, the town’s main trade is antique and secondhand stores. I browsed around, wishing I had a bicycle basket to load with dog-eared books and comedy toby jugs.

I also cycled the Water Rail Way, a mostly traffic-free route following the former Lincoln to Boston Railway, by the River Witham. In the middle ages, Lincolnshire had one of England’s greatest densities of monastic houses – abbey-averse Henry VIII called it “the most brute and beastly shire” – and the greatest concentration was in the Witham valley. I started at one, Kirkstead Abbey, where the merest sliver remains, and rode northward for six miles to another, in Bardney, where there was even less. But it was a joyful pedal, along the river, fenlands spreading either side, dotted with more sculptures, swans and defunct stations that now serve only walkers and cyclists.

Finally, I followed the same route a few miles south to Tattershall, home to the enormous, light-flooded Collegiate Church of Holy Trinity and one of England’s first brick-built castles. My timing was good, arriving just as National Trust guide Nigel was starting a tour of the castle’s moated 33.5 metre-high Great Tower. It was constructed in the 15th century by Ralph, third Baron Cromwell, treasurer of England, who wanted a show-off home befitting his self-importance. Nigel described it as “ eight million bricks and a fashion statement” – exposed brick was avant garde at the time.

We climbed up the storeys, from the vaulted basement buttery (used as a prison during the civil war) to the turreted roof. A superlative lookout – and power move – for Cromwell, it’s still the highest point around; Lincoln Cathedral’s gargantuan towers, visible when it’s clear, are 18 miles away. I looked north towards Woodhall Spa, too flat to be perceptible amid the fuzz of green, hidden despite being so close. Indeed, the ideal spot to hide away.

The trip was provided by Bainland Lodge Retreats, which has lodges from £649 for four nights (sleeping two) and bike hire from £15pp. For more information see visitlincolnshire.com