snow

For the past 36 years, architects, engineers and all sorts of artists have descended on the tiny Swedish town on the outskirts of Kiruna to construct the latest iteration of the ice hotel

It’s not the cold that gets you first. It’s the quiet.

For some of the guests to the ICEHOTEL in the Arctic town of Jukkasjärvi, it isn’t the -10C bedroom temperature that causes them to abandon their £600 ice bed in the middle of the night and make for the hard wooden slats of the mercifully heated changing rooms, but the oppressive, complete silence that comes with being in a room constructed entirely snow packed onto ice foundations.

“If you didn’t know you had tinnitus before, you certainly will once you spend a night in here,” explained guide Glen as he gestured into our icy room for the night.

Poking out from around the doorway was another unnerving element: an adult-sized ice baby.

For the past 36 years, architects, engineers and all sorts of artists have descended on the tiny Swedish town on the outskirts of Kiruna to construct the latest iteration of the ice hotel. The building process begins when massive blocks of ice are harvested from the Torne River. Each block weighs up to two tonnes and is stored cold during the summer, ready for the winter and the construction of the ICEHOTEL in October. They are not there to build uniform, utilitarian ice rooms, however. Instead, they construct something between the fictional ice palace in James Bond’s Die Another Day and a fairground house of fun.

OPINION

Milo Boyd

READ MORE: ‘We booked a £99 mystery holiday and ended up outside Malta near a corner shop’

My wife and I were to sleep in one of 12 art suites, ours titled ‘There is no one here’ and created by Turkish artists Ayla Turan and Kemal Tufan. Five round-faced, jellybaby-like figures were in there with us, one standing guard at the door, another popping its head over the bedstead. A third seemed stuck in the wall, as if splinched by a Harry Potter apparition gone wrong.

Before bedding down for the night, guests have a chance to visit the other 11 art suites—that is, before they are shuttered up in April and left to quietly melt into the river beyond. A particularly striking creation is ‘Arctic Archive’, the work of Kristina Möckel and Sebastian Scheller. Each wall is made of rows of shelves filled with hundreds of snow books.

Carl and Malena Wellander’s ‘Survival of the Fittest’ lets guests sleep alongside some of the toughest creatures on the planet: tardigrades. These unusual little “moss piglets” can survive in any habitat on Earth, in space and, it seems, the ICEHOTEL.

What’s less certain is whether Robin Lind and Charlie Hammarlund’s Crystal Souls are evil or benevolent figures. The two blurry, Dr Who-like characters are trapped behind an ice block, seemingly desperate to get through.

There are several ice hotels in the world, but the ICEHOTEL is the first and biggest. Its life began in 1989 when Yngve Bergqvist, who had built an art gallery from ice and snow in his garden, opened its frozen door to Swedish soldiers who needed a place to stay. He woke in the morning in a panic. The temperature had plummeted deep into the -20Cs overnight, and Yngve was convinced he’d killed the troops. He rushed out to the gallery to find them happily making breakfast, having survived the night in their thick Arctic sleeping bags.

Since then, the ICEHOTEL has let thousands of guests do the same. In truth, when tucked up inside a winter duvet-thick sleeping bag, atop reindeer furs, the only real difficulty I had was keeping my snorkel-like nose warm as it peeked out of the bedding folds.

There are several reasons why the hotel is where it is: the proximity of the river and the climate, of course, but also Kiruna, where the vast iron ore mine has delivered untold wealth, an international airport and engineering expertise. Yngve himself spent five years down the mines before turning his skills to hospitality.

It is truly a marvel, both creatively and technically. Using 1,000 tonnes of ice and 30,000 tonnes of snow-ice mixture, the structure is built using steel moulds, snow cannons and huge, perfectly clear blocks.

On the other side of the courtyard from the art suites is the year-round 365 Hotel, which uses cooling techniques to keep the ice from melting even in the height of Arctic summer, which, in fairness, did once reach 24C.

The less transient nature of this part of the hotel has given its creators licence to go bigger. Guests first walk into the bar, where a spiral staircase (made of ice) leads up to an elevated seating area (also made of ice), where you can enjoy a cocktail in a glass (also, ice). Once used, these are tossed into the river from whence they came.

Having donned an extra pair of socks after a foot-numbing tour, I shared a drink with a couple from Leicester who’d spent three days husky sledging, ice fishing and reindeer spotting on a blowout 50th birthday anniversary trip. And blowout it was.

The one hesitation I have about this undeniably magical place is the price point. The cost for an ice room for the night is 4000 SEK (£320) for two, with breakfast included. In itself, not a bad price at all. But once the flight to Kiruna via Stockholm, or the 16-hour night train, is factored in, along with the frankly eye-watering £150pp cost of a fairly average dinner at the ICEHOTEL restaurant, there might not be much left over for excursions. And there has to be given the £400 cost of a private sauna ritual and £800 private transfer to the airport via husky sledge.

But really, no one was in the mood for griping about a few krona or öre once ensconced in this ice palace. I suspected it’d be a magnificent place before I arrived, but I wat I didn’t realise is that it’d be so funny. From my creepy ice baby guard and lounging otter statue to the ice slide that directs tipsy guests back to their room, the ICEHOTEL is packed with witty and unexpected surprises.

Book it

The cost of staying at ICEHOTEL varies depending on the type of room, time of year, and package selected. To sleep in a room made of ice and snow costs from 4000 SEK per night (2 people, B&B). Go to www.icehotel.com

Storm Therese is battering the Canary Islands with heavy rain, 100km/h winds and snow at high altitudes, causing flight cancellations and travel disruption, with some holidaymakers even cancelling their breaks

Many people book a holiday to Spain for some much-needed sunshine, however some are now choosing to cancel their trips as Storm Therese is currently causing chaos across the Canary Islands, particularly Tenerife and La Palma.

The storm is currently delivering an unusual combination of heavy rain, 100 km/h (62 mph) winds, and substantial snow at high altitudes. Authorities have declared a full-scale emergency in Tenerife, describing it as one of the most severe storms to hit the archipelago in over a decade. Spain’s meteorological agency, AEMET, has issued several alerts that will stay active throughout the weekend. Orange (high risk) warnings have been dispatched for northern Tenerife and parts of La Palma due to wind gusts reaching 90–100 km/h and heavy rainfall.

Meanwhile, yellow warnings are in effect across all seven islands for rain, thunderstorms, and choppy seas with waves reaching up to 6 metres (20 feet).

Unusually for this time of year, significant snowfall has also covered Mount Teide and surrounding peaks above 1,800–2,000 metres.

The weather drama has caused many Tenerife tourists to admit they ‘can’t wait’ to get home.

One Tenerife resident, known as @theknightstrider1 on TikTok, took to his account on Saturday (March 21) to discuss the ‘wild’ weather in the area.

The car hire and bar owner filmed himself as he said: “The Tenerife weather is just wild at the moment. It’s on for another at least four days this crazy weather. He explained the Santa Cruz de Tenerife area had just experienced a “torrential downpour”, but then he turned the other way to reveal “blue skies with the sun shining”. However, he noted, within the next minute, the rain is “bouncing down” again.

The Tenerife resident also mentioned the drains “just can’t handle” the rainfall and they end up “bursting up” fairly regularly.

He continued: “The good news is, it is mixed. I suppose that’s kind of good news, you can get a bit of sunshine, but it was absolutely hammering it down a minute ago.

“So there you go, another four days or so of this. If you’re here, expect a mixed bag – heavy rain, a bit of sunshine now… towards Las Americas looks alright. But you’re going to want to do your indoor activities.”

He stated when the sun is out, it’s “about 22 degrees”, but it’s “around 18 degrees” in the shade, the rain and the wind.

Numerous followers amongst his 115,000-strong audience who were heading on Tenerife holidays confessed they were concerned about their break.

One person commented: “When will it be finished? We come Friday.”

Whilst another added: “Praying it passes by Tuesday.”

A third chimed in: “I’m coming Monday, really hope it picks up!”

Nevertheless, others admitted they were calling off their breaks as the Tenerife resident posted another clip of the rainfall, with one person writing: “We cancelled our week away at the last minute.”

Another replied: “Snap – we’ve rebooked for April 12 onwards.” The storm has resulted in widespread cancellations and safety shutdowns across the islands. Over 40 flights were cancelled or diverted by Friday, 20 March, mainly at Tenerife North and South airports. Travellers are urged to verify their flight status via Flightradar24 or their airline.

Numerous individuals on TikTok and Facebook have branded Tenerife South Airport as ‘chaos’, claiming that the luggage queue is taking hours and some people are missing their flights.

Others have also alleged that the E-gates aren’t functioning and hundreds of people have been queuing “to see one passport officer who was having to re-scan face/finger prints”.

Sharing another video from Tenerife South Airport, @theknightstrider1 described it as “rammed” in the caption and said arrivals was particularly crowded so holidaymakers should “be prepared”.

He added in the clip: “If you’re wondering if Tenerife is busy, it certainly is. This is the arrivals area and it’s absolutely rammed. People are still pouring in.

“If you come to the airport, I do recommend you get here nice and early if you’re leaving, there’s bound to be queues when you’ve got this many people around.”

Aena said in a comment: “In Spain border control is the responsibility of the National Police, not the airport. The airport has provided the necessary infrastructure for the implementation of the Entry Exit System but its availability depends primarily on the number and performance of police officers at the border post.”

When will Storm Therese be over?

Storm Therese is expected to subside across most of its affected areas by Monday, 23 March 2026. While the worst of the weather occurred between Thursday and Saturday, some impacts and weather warnings will persist through early next week.

Storm effects are currently continuing today (Sunday March 22) with rain and strong winds. Orange wind warnings (up to 100 km/h) remain in place for Tenerife, La Gomera, El Hierro, and western La Palma.

Weather is forecast to “ease off” on Monday (March 23) with wind speeds dropping and rainfall decreasing significantly. However, yellow and orange warnings remain active for several islands, and some schools in El Hierro, La Gomera, and parts of Tenerife will stay closed as a precaution. Conditions are expected to improve throughout the week.

Storm Therese is battering the Canary Islands with heavy rain, 100km/h winds and significant snowfall, with over 40 flights cancelled and schools closed across the islands

Storm Therese is currently wreaking havoc on the Canary Islands, particularly Tenerife and La Palma, with an unusual mix of heavy rain, 100 km/h (62 mph) winds, and significant snowfall at high altitudes. Authorities have declared a full-scale emergency in Tenerife, labelling it as one of the most severe storms to batter the archipelago in over a decade.

Spain‘s meteorological agency, AEMET, has issued several alerts that will remain active throughout the weekend. Orange (high risk) warnings have been dispatched for northern Tenerife and parts of La Palma due to wind gusts reaching 90–100 km/h and heavy rainfall. Concurrently, yellow warnings are in place across all seven islands for rain, thunderstorms, and choppy seas with waves reaching up to 6 metres (20 feet).

Unusually for this time of year, significant snowfall has also blanketed Mount Teide and surrounding peaks above 1,800–2,000 metres.

The storm has led to widespread cancellations and safety closures across the islands. Over 40 flights were cancelled or rerouted by Friday, March 20, primarily at Tenerife North and South airports. Travellers are advised to check their flight status via Flightradar24 or their airline.

Schools and universities in Tenerife, Gran Canaria, and several other islands were shut on Thursday and Friday, whilst key roads, including access to Teide National Park and the TF-445 to Punta de Teno, are closed due to ice and snow.

Major international events such as the Tenerife Bluetrail 2026 race have been cancelled or postponed.

Providing an update on the weather situation on Friday (March 20), one Tenerife resident known as @theknightstrider1 on TikTok took to the platform to share details with his 115,000 followers.

The car hire and bar owner, who is based in Playa de las Américas, was heard saying: “A little weather update for you then, it’s raining… it’s pretty grim and it’s gone really overcast as well.

“The rain showers are on and off, we haven’t really had any rain until now. It was okay this morning, but yeah it is raining. The current temperature’s around 18 degrees, not too cold but the umbrella’s are out, people are sheltering and it’s really not that nice.”

He added: “Bear in mind, you might get caught in the rain, have a brolly with you. Maybe some of the rain macs as well if you’ve got any, if not buy some because it’s on and off.”

One person wrote: “Weather’s been awful the last three days, can’t wait to go home.”

Whilst another added: “Arrive tomorrow, packed a brolly.”

A third chimed in: “This makes me so happy as someone who was going to go this week and changed to last week! Phew.”

Whilst a fourth asked: “Why is it every time it’s sunny in the UK it rains in Tenerife?”

Another resident of the Canary Islands also posted a weather update on TikTok from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, captioning the clip, ‘Rain, wind and choppy ocean. Flights cancelled and diverted. Flooding in El Médano and roads closed. The storms Theresa and Samuel are hitting Canary Islands.’

He then said in the video: “Here if your weather update from Tenerife South on Friday March 20th, 2026. The two storms – Theresa and Samuel – are hitting the Canary Islands with force.

“As you can see here, we have quite a lot of waves here in the Troya area of Las Americas. The storms have caused quite a few incidents on the island, we have had 11 flights cancelled yesterday, 10 flights have been cancelled during the day today.

“We have had quite a few flights deviated to other airports as well and we have had ferries that have been cancelled because of the conditions out on the see.”

He explained the temperature was currently hovering around 19 degrees and there had been some rain which was “coming and going” along with overcast skies.

Are flights from the UK to Tenerife being cancelled?

Yes, flights from the UK to Tenerife are currently experiencing cancellations and significant disruptions due to severe weather from Storm Therese.

As of Saturday, 21 March 2026, authorities in Tenerife have declared an island-wide emergency due to extreme conditions including heavy rain, strong winds, and rare snowfall over high ground.

Over 36 flights were cancelled earlier this week, with further disruptions reported today. While many cancellations involve inter-island services, several international flights have been diverted or cancelled due to poor visibility and high winds.

Currently, the most affected airport is Tenerife North (TFN), which has seen the greatest impact, though Tenerife South (TFS) – where most UK flights land –is also experiencing delays and some rerouted services.

Conditions are expected to remain hazardous through Saturday, with a gradual improvement predicted for Sunday, 22 March.

Major airlines serving the UK to Tenerife route, such as Ryanair, easyJet, Jet2, and TUI, are urging passengers to check their flight status before heading to the airport

If your flight is cancelled, contact your airline immediately to discuss rebooking or refund options.

THE CANARY Islands are facing huge storms and rain this week, which has even meant snow in places like Tenerife and La Palma.

Here’s what you need to know if you have a holiday booked there.

What is happening in the Canary Islands?

Storm Therese has left the Canary Islands in turmoil as weather warnings have remained in place for several days.

More snow is expected in Tenerife after the mountains in the Teide National Park were blanketed in white on Thursday.

As a result, more than 40 flights have been cancelled this week across the Canaries.

Orange and yellow alerts are in place across the islands, warning of heavy rain, storms, flooding and high waves.

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Can I cancel my holiday?

If you want to cancel your upcoming holiday to the Canary Islands, you will be left out of pocket.

This is because the UK government still deems it safe to travel to Spain, so airlines and tour operators are under no obligation to refund you.

It is only when travel is warned against that it is likely your holiday will be cancelled and refunded.

Bad weather does not affect this.

And the weather warnings are expected to be lifted by the end of the week – so won’t affect the Easter holidays.

What if my flights are affected?

Compensation doesn’t apply here either – weather is seen as “out of the airline’s control”.

This means they do not have to offer any compensation if your flight is delayed by the weather.

They do, however, have a duty of care towards you, which includes hotels if the flight is delayed overnight, as well as food and drink vouchers.

The airline must put you on an alternative flight if yours is cancelled as well.

The UK Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) states: “If your flight is cancelled, many airlines will provide vouchers for you to buy food and drink.

“If you require accommodation, they may book a hotel and arrange transportation for you.

“If you end up paying for things yourself, keep every receipt and do not spend more than is reasonable.”

If you accept a refund, their duty of care ends towards you and you will have to pay for your own hotels and return flight home.

Storm Therese has battered the Canary Islands with severe weather warnings for storms, flooding, heavy rain, and strong winds – and the chaos is set to continue for several more days

Holidaymakers in Tenerife have been left furious after spending the entire year saving for a week of sunshine – only to arrive and find dreary weather greeting them. During March, Tenerife usually basks in temperatures ranging from 16 to 22 degrees, as Spain starts welcoming visitors back before its hectic summer period.

Yet the island has been battered by Storm Therese, delivering unexpectedly cold temperatures, gloomy conditions, flight cancellations, and even snow alerts in certain regions. Discussing the weather this week, TikTok user @seb_tenerife, who is presently residing on the island, remarked: “This might be the first or second of four bad days of weather.

“A storm – what is going on? It’s meant to have the best climate, I’d say, in Europe, and now we’re four days into a storm. You know we’re in a crisis – I’m in a full tracksuit. What has happened?”

He continued by explaining that visitors have been contacting him regarding the conditions, enquiring whether the weather is expected to improve. Nevertheless, he confessed the forecast keeps shifting every time he examines it, leaving him uncertain whether conditions will brighten up anytime soon.

Responding to his video, one user said: “Same in January. Was great at Christmas. Climate change.”

Another commented: “The last year has been a bit mad weather-wise there. I went in April and then December, and both weeks were overcast and a good few degrees colder than previous years. My friend said it was the coldest December she’s ever had in 10 years of spending Christmas and New Year there.”

A third user said: “Try going in August. I’ve been in April, August, and December for the last three years, and August wins every time – around 28 to 32 degrees last year.”

The forecast

The Canary Islands have been battered by severe weather – and the chaos is far from over. An orange weather alert was issued after days of heavy rain and strong winds, with forecasters warning the miserable conditions could drag on for at least another five days – potentially ruining holiday plans for Brits abroad.

Shocking scenes in Tenerife showed the usually sun-soaked hotspot covered in snow, with icicles forming in some areas. Stunned tourists filmed the whiteout conditions in Teide National Park, where several roads were forced to close.

Snow is expected to continue falling in higher above 1,800 to 2,000 metres, as Storm Therese continues to lash the islands. Torrential rain has already triggered flash flooding and landslides in some areas.

Warnings have been issued for multiple types of extreme weather, including storms, flooding, strong winds, heavy rainfall and dangerous waves. Wind gusts have exceeded a staggering 74mph in places – with the sunshine holidaymakers expect nowhere to be seen. The wild weather has also caused travel chaos, with at least seven flights cancelled or diverted on Thursday alone, following 36 cancellations the day before.

Conditions are expected to worsen on Friday, which could mark the peak of Storm Therese. Orange rain alerts are in place for Tenerife, El Hierro, La Palma, and La Gomera. Forecasters warn up to 111mm of rain could fall within 12 hours in some areas, while Gran Canaria is under an amber alert, with up to 80mm expected.

Sea conditions are also turning dangerous, particularly between Tenerife and Gran Canaria, where waves could reach up to six metres alongside force eight winds. While the storm may ease slightly on Saturday, disruption is still expected. Orange alerts remain in place for Tenerife and La Palma, with winds of up to 55mph set to continue.

Tourists and locals have been urged to avoid unnecessary travel, stay away from coastal and mountainous areas, and follow official guidance. Schools across the islands have also been forced to close until conditions improve.

Lavenham in Suffolk is home to over 300 preserved Tudor houses and charming timber-framed buildings – and was used as the filming location for Godric’s Hollow in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows

Tucked away in Suffolk lies a remarkably well-preserved village, famed for its collection of over 300 Tudor houses, instantly recognisable by their timber-framed design.

During England’s Tudor period, this very village was among the country’s most affluent areas, but today it serves as a living museum for history enthusiasts and tourists seeking a glimpse into the past.

Lavenham is the quintessential ‘higgledy-piggledy village’, boasting a variety of architectural styles, but it’s the Tudor buildings that truly set it apart.

So much so, that hundreds of its structures are listed and thus protected to maintain their original appearance, whilst the National Trust owns some of its most significant sites, renowned for their historical importance within the village.

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The area’s grandiose atmosphere is rooted in the village’s wool trade history, as it gained fame for producing high-quality lavender blue broadcloth.

However, when the trade declined in the 17th century, there were no attempts to rebuild; instead, efforts were focused on preserving what already existed.

Historic Buildings

Among these stunning structures stands a 15th-century Tudor building located on Main Street, known as the Crooked House.

This particular spot inspired the well-known nursery rhyme There Was A Crooked Man, and much like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, its upper section exhibits a noticeable tilt.

Dating back to 1395, this stunning edifice, now adorned in a vibrant orange hue, is owned by two ‘crooked men’, husbands Alex and Oli.

Visitors are invited to explore the interior and receive a warm greeting from its owners, complete with a guided tour of its captivating rooms.

In addition, the village is home to the Lavenham Guildhall, currently under the stewardship of the National Trust, and serves as a showcase for local history.

This bewitching structure sits at the very heart of the village and has functioned as a community hub throughout its 500-year existence, assuming new roles and changing hands over time.

A recent guest shared on TripAdvisor: “Was very impressed with our visit to this NT property. Instead of being stuffed with display cases full of historic relics, the approach here is to set up the Guildhall how it would have been used through its history and have minimal information boards and artefacts that support and demonstrate that approach.

“But the real stars here are the volunteer guides, and all three who were working the different rooms at the time we visited had fantastic knowledge that could bring the building to life.”

Harry Potter

Already famous in its own right, Lavenham elevated its status when it featured on the silver screen as the filming location for Godric’s Hollow in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 1.

The idyllic setting portrayed the location of Harry’s parents’ graves in the film. In a poignant and memorable scene in the movie, he and Hermione visit the village on Christmas Eve.

De Vere House served as the exterior of the Potters’ ruined home, which was later modified for the screen using computer-generated imagery. The Guildhall was also utilised, depicted as the abandoned house sitting in the backdrop of the village.

The already serene village gained an added sense of tranquillity when it was blanketed by a thin layer of snow as the two characters strolled down its Main Street.

However, it is widely understood that the Hollywood actors themselves did not actually set foot in Lavenham and were instead superimposed onto the village’s backdrop after filming in a studio.

Hannah and Simon took an ‘extreme day trip’ instead of having date night in the UK

A couple swapped their usual UK date night to fly to the French Alps for five hours of skiing and fondue. They claimed it could “easily be the same price” to go out for dinner and a show in London.

Hannah West, 39, and her husband, Simon, 52, wanted to see if an extreme day trip to the mountains was really possible. The couple, from Brighton, had an early 6am start in the airport but claim the trip was “totally worth it”.

The pair boarded a 6.10am flight from Gatwick Airport to Geneva in February, and despite the plane being delayed by an hour, they touched down in France by 10am. The content creators spent the afternoon skiing in La Clusaz before grabbing a fondue and flying back to the UK at 9.30pm.

They were back in time to kiss their kids goodnight. They added that, despite the trip setting them back £671.80, it could easily cost the same to go to London to see a show and have a nice dinner.

Hannah said: “We got in five hours of skiing which I think is how much most people would do in a day anyway. I feel like we got a really decent amount of skiing in. It was definitely worth it.

“You could easily have gone to London for the day and spent that if you went to watch a show and had dinner. The fact that we got to do that much skiing and it’s something we will never forget, I think it’s totally worth it.”

Hannah and Simon decided to challenge themselves to an extreme day trip after seeing others go on quick getaways. The mum-of-two said: “I’ve seen a lot of people doing them for city breaks, but I wanted to see if it was possible to do it for a ski trip.”

They spent £164.99 per person on return flights and determined to maximise their time on the snow, the couple hired a car for £59.18 straight from the airport and drove to the resort, allowing them to squeeze in five hours of skiing.

They arrived by midday, and after skiing, the couple still had time to get dinner and drinks. They spent £61 on a cheese fondue for two, dessert, one glass of wine and one cola. Hannah said: “The whole day felt magical and I felt like I was beaming the whole time. I couldn’t believe it was possible, the whole day I was on a high. It was the best date day.”

Their flight back to England was at 9.30pm. They managed to get back to their home in Brighton around 11.30pm, where their children – 11 and eight – were being babysat by their grandmother.

Hannah said: “This is such a great opportunity to have an amazing date day with your partner – to do something you both really love together and have a really special day you’re going to remember forever. It was exhausting, we were totally knackered.”

In total, the trip cost £671.80, which is £335.90 per person. While that may sound steep for a single day, Hannah argues it compares to a luxury day out in London.

She added that booking flights further in advance or travelling in a group would have reduced the cost. She said: “It’s not about replacing a week-long ski holiday, or am I suggesting this is something to do on a regular basis.

“But if you’re time-poor, or don’t have childcare for a week away, you can still have an amazing, special day together.” While she wouldn’t rush to repeat the adrenaline-fuelled day, she says she would do it again if the opportunity arose.

The couple took their trip in February 2025. Flight prices will likely be different now and will vary depending on the location people fly from, if trying to replicate a similar experience.

Cost breakdown (prices from February 2025):

• Parking: £31.68 at Gatwick Airport
• Flights: £164.99pp
• Car hire: £59.18
• Fuel: £14.63
• Tolls: £10.70
• Parking: £12.30
• Day pass skiing: £44.66pp
• Ski gear hire: £22.75 pp
• Food: £78.51
• Total: £671.80 (£335.90pp)

A travel writer explores Aspen and Snowmass in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains, discovering stunning Maroon Bells views, cowboy culture, rodeos and summer adventures in America’s most affluent mountain resort

The guide’s instructions were crystal clear: “Keep both hands on the handlebars. Don’t look around. Don’t take photos.”

Yet I simply couldn’t resist. The scenery was far too stunning and I found myself compelled to capture videos of the breathtaking alpine vista surrounding us whilst coasting down from the Maroon Bells, the twin peaks situated behind the twin towns of Aspen and Snowmass, their snow-covered summits still clinging to winter’s final traces despite it being late June.

This stretch of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains is more renowned for its skiing and cold-weather pursuits, yet during summer it transforms into a paradise for those keen to discover the terrain no longer concealed beneath snow.

I’d travelled in from Denver, departing the state capital bathed in evening sunlight as we glided over the snow-dusted peaks. Lines of private aircraft filled the tarmac at tiny Aspen airport.

I’d never witnessed so many. Then again, this ranks among the wealthiest regions in the US, with as many as 125 billionaires possessing homes here, reports the Express.

Tourists appear to be predominantly wealthy or “aspirational”. Imagine the south of France or Dubai, but with ranch culture.

Our accommodation was the stylish W, positioned in Aspen’s heart and near the cable car terminal. It proved as contemporary and fashionable as the other W properties I’ve experienced, though more compact in size – less ostentatious, more intimate.

After refreshing ourselves, I met my tour party on the rooftop terrace where we sipped cocktails as the sun descended with golden beams caressing Mount Aspen. Drinks finished, we headed off for dinner through Aspen’s charming, tree-lined streets, which reveal little evidence of its rough-and-ready heritage as a silver mining settlement.

Following the collapse of the silver boom, Aspen’s prosperity plummeted and only bounced back after being transformed into a ski resort in the mid-20th century. I realised I was struggling slightly to walk.

The booze? No, the 8,000ft elevation (the thin mountain air would leave me breathless for the following few days).

The evocative Steakhouse No. 316 was softly illuminated with stylish Old West-inspired décor. My fillet steak arrived cooked to medium-rare perfection and accompanied by a zesty margarita.

Annoying jetlag brought the evening to an early close, wiping me out by 11pm, then jolting me awake at 3.30am. At least it guaranteed I was first down for breakfast.

I sampled elk sausage and eggs – my initial encounter with the magnificent creatures that continue to inhabit the area – robust, smoky, and as delicious as they are striking. Poor elk.

The morning’s programme featured e-biking up the valley through attractive wetlands (the power-assisted pedalling a blessing) and a stop at the trendy Aspen Art Museum, with its six galleries of contemporary art.

We had lunch at the museum’s rooftop restaurant. Its cuisine may have been uninspiring, but the panorama of Mount Aspen was as stunning as the staircase leading up there.

Every local we encountered that day was incredibly welcoming, stepping aside for us with beaming smiles or cheerful greetings. Despite Aspen’s prestigious reputation, it was refreshingly free from the snobbery you might anticipate in comparable British or European ski resorts.

After lunch, we browsed the souvenir shops. The standout was Kemo Sabe, a Western-themed boutique selling bespoke cowboy gear. It’s every bit as pricey as it is stylish – hats typically cost $1,000. I spotted a basic leather hatband priced at $8,776.

Surely nobody’s quite that ambitious?

Maintaining the Western atmosphere, dinner was at Hotel Jerome, an impressive structure built in the 19th century to rival London’s Savoy. Its bars and restaurants radiated a gentler Western appeal, though the seven-course tasting menu proved disappointing.

Nevertheless, the cocktails were superb and the heritage tangible.

The magnificence continued as we strolled to the nearby Wheeler Opera House for an Emmylou Harris performance. I’d never encountered her work, and the 77-year-old, 14 Grammy-winning folk artist exposed my ignorance as her captivating voice echoed throughout the elegant Victorian-era venue.

Following another night of jet-lag-shortened sleep, I was grateful we caught a cable car to Mount Aspen’s peak for an outdoor yoga session where I loosened my weary muscles whilst overlooking the mountains.

Lunch was back down at the Ajax Tavern beside the cable-car station. Its signature truffle fries were superb, but the signature double beef burgers were rather mediocre.

That sunny evening we travelled onwards to Snowmass, 15 minutes down the valley, pausing at the rodeo. But this wasn’t just any rodeo, this was the Snowmass Rodeo – packed with well-Cuban-heeled cowboys and girls sporting Kemo Sabe hats and designer sunglasses.

Nevertheless, it felt pleasantly down-to-earth, with cheerful families and grins everywhere. Events ranged from children’s sheep-riding (yes, really), bullock lassoing and barrel-racing, building up to bull-riding.

Snowmass Village itself possesses a distinctly different atmosphere from Aspen. Here, the resort has been constructed around the skiing – rather than the other way round – with an extensive network of trails and pistes spreading up the enormous Snowmass Mountain.

During summer, the tree-covered slopes become a mountain biker’s dream, boasting over 50 miles of trails. As we ascended via gondola up the Elk Camp side of the mountain, we observed as they hurtled down, tearing up trails.

Entertaining, but we found our excitement from the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster, a roller coaster nestled in the forest where you race downhill in toboggans, my bum squeaking as noisily as the brakes.

From the cable-car terminal, there’s a chairlift ascending to the summit of Elk Camp. Regrettably, it was chilly and wet up there and the views of the Maroon Bells hidden by cloud.

A quick stop for pizza energised us for the descent into Aspen’s tree woods above the village. The afternoon sun illuminated their silver bark and created lengthy shadows.

Combined with the birdsong and post-rain scents, it felt enchanting. Snowmass’s nightlife is considerably more low-key than that of Aspen.

We ate at Aurum, an upscale Mediterranean/American fusion eatery – more outstanding steak and cocktails – and also at Kenichi, a Japanese restaurant serving not only the finest food of the entire trip, but the best Japanese cuisine I’ve ever experienced.

Zane’s and The Tavern are well-loved local watering holes – the former a relaxed sports bar, the latter buzzing with boisterous young punters drowning out the gravelly old country singer.

Our last morning kicked off with that bike ride down from Maroon Bells. The sight of the twin peaks looming majestically over the unspoilt Maroon Lake was nothing short of spectacular.

And, thankfully, the journey back to Aspen was downhill the entire way. After such a stunning trip, in every sense of the word, it was a thoroughly fitting send-off.

Book the holiday

For the handful of skiers gliding across a sun-drenched ridge high in the San Gabriel Mountains, the wide expanse of the Inland Empire stretched to the Pacific Ocean nearly two vertical miles below.

Across sparkling water, the rugged spine of Catalina Island graced the horizon.

The view rivaled anything at the posh, world-renowned ski resorts of Lake Tahoe, but this was humble Mt. Baldy — the familiar local mountain that, for a few precious weeks each year, becomes a downhill skiing destination that holds its own with anything in the American West.

A sign inside Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy.

Last week — after the 10,000-foot summit that looms above Los Angeles emerged from storm clouds blanketed in white — was one for the ages.

But in a rapidly warming world, and in an industry dominated by two huge and growing conglomerates that are crushing the competition, every run feels fleeting.

These days, managing a small ski business is like trying to keep a mom-and-pop general store afloat after Walmart comes to town.

By noon last Wednesday on Mt. Baldy — a little more than an hour’s drive from downtown L.A. — it was getting pretty hot, and the snow was melting fast.

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For a skier racing between towering Jeffrey pines and plummeting through soft, slushy piles of forgiving snow, the hardest part was dodging exposed rocks and random tree limbs that appeared underfoot with alarming frequency.

The hardest part for the business is the fact that one of the conglomerates, Alterra Mountain Co., essentially surrounds Mt. Baldy.

Zac Chambers and his daughter Whitney, 6, of Upland, snowboard together at Mt. Baldy.

It owns Big Bear Mountain Resort and Snow Summit in nearby San Bernardino County, and Mammoth Mountain, the closest big resort in California’s High Sierra.

Although a season pass at Mt. Baldy is a relative bargain at about $300, it’s good only when there’s snow.

For about $800, you can get an “Ikon Pass” from Alterra, which offers access to all of its resorts in California and dozens more across the country and around the globe, including South America, Europe and Asia.

All of which makes keeping the lights on and the chairlifts spinning at beloved, but beleaguered, local resorts an exhausting labor of love.

Last week, Robby Ellingson, president and general manager of Mt. Baldy Resort, drove two hours to a rival resort in Big Bear Lake to pick up spare parts for an old chairlift that had broken down. He thanked them with a few cases of beer.

He planned to grab some tools and install the parts himself, with the help of an electrician.

Michael Phelps, left, and Seven Foster, of Riverside, take the chairlift up to Mt. Baldy Resort.

“I climb the lift towers, I drive snowcats, I do pretty much everything,” he said, chuckling at all of the hard, physical labor despite his executive title. “There’s a lot of things I do that none of the other dudes who hold my position would dream of — out of necessity.”

Another Mt. Baldy executive, Ellingson’s brother Tommy, turned up for an interview on the mountain in a camouflage hoodie, clutching an electric hand drill.

“Everybody’s like a Swiss army knife up here,” he quipped. “It’s awesome, it’s organic!”

It’s also very old-school.

While resorts like Mammoth invest millions in state-of-the-art chairlifts that whisk six people at a time up the mountain with astonishing speed, Mt. Baldy relies on slow, creaking two- and three-person lifts reminiscent of the 1980s.

A lot of the ski gear, ski fashion and the skiers themselves seemed proudly rooted in a bygone era too.

A skier carves down the mountain at Mt. Baldy.

Chris Caron, a 65-year-old retiree who lives 20 minutes down the road, stood at the top of the experts chairlift with a beard as white as snow, a black plastic sun shield across his nose and a cold craft beer in hand.

“There’s big conglomerates trying to buy everybody up, and I don’t want that,” he said, shading himself beneath the bill of his Pliny the Elder ball cap. “That’s what I love about here. It’s not so commercialized.”

Caron said he snowboards at Baldy every chance he gets — 20 to 30 days in a good year.

“I grew up here. We used to ride our bicycles and hike these mountains,” he said. “It’s like home.”

Driving back from visiting family in Missouri recently, Caron stopped at Taos Ski Valley in New Mexico, a bucket list destination for people who don’t shy from pricey vacations. He couldn’t help himself, he said — they’d just had a big dump of fresh powder and it wasn’t too far out of his way. But it didn’t feel right.

“It’s pretty posh,” he said with a resigned shrug. “That’s just not me.”

Also enjoying the uncrowded slopes and gloriously short lift lines on Wednesday was Tommaso Ghio, 28, an aspiring filmmaker from Italy who spent much of the afternoon snowboarding shirtless and looking like an extra from a Visit California commercial.

Old skis adorn a light fixture at the Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy.

He and his friends drove up through the desert where it was, “like 80 or 90 degrees, and then we just ended up on top of a mountain,” covered in snow, he said, grinning as if he had won the lottery. “You can’t get this anywhere else.”

But the balmy weather that made the afternoon feel so decadent, and otherworldly, also poses a serious threat to Baldy’s on-again, off-again ski season.

It started with a surprise early storm in November — one that had locals dreaming of a record-breaking year — followed by a bone-dry December.

Then at Christmas, an atmospheric river that dumped several feet of snow on Northern California resorts arrived at Mt. Baldy, which tops out at 8,600 feet, as “catastrophic” rain, Ellingson said.

Rain washes away existing snow and destroys the quality of anything left behind.

And since Christmas week crowds generate about 30% of annual revenue at many U.S. ski resorts, the storm soaked Mt. Baldy in more ways than one.

Things stayed grim until last week’s storm, which dropped more than 2 feet of snow at the base of the resort and up to 3 feet at the top.

With limited snow at lower elevations, people make the up-and-down trip from the chairlift at Mt. Baldy.

It took some time to recover from damage done by the howling wind and make sure none of the enormous piles of snow on the upper reaches became life-threatening avalanches. When the resort finally opened, the skiing was as good as any in recent memory.

“I’ve lived in Mt. Baldy almost my entire life,” said Ellingson, who is 50, “and last Friday was one of my top five days ever.”

He’s hoping the storm delivered enough snow to stay open for at least a month, but the heat is not helping.

Ellingson’s family bought the Mt. Baldy Lodge, a restaurant in the village far below, in the late 1970s. They started running the ski hill, which they own a substantial share of, in 2013.

Increasingly fickle winters have forced the resort to branch out in an attempt to boost summer earnings and attract non-skiing customers: hosting moonlight hikes with live music in the restaurant at the base of the lifts, renting “glamping” tents on wooden platforms — with beds and locking doors — to tempt uneasy campers to sleep beneath the stars.

And in what Ellingson called a “swing for the fences” move, the resort recently bought a microbrewery in Upland. After serving beers at the restaurant for decades, it seemed like a natural next step.

Anything to avoid getting trapped in a “desk job,” Ellingson said, like his friends working as middle managers at the big, corporate resorts.

“I hate to throw shade,” he said, but do those guys ever go skiing?

Independence is priceless to Ellingson because, when you’re the boss and the snow is good, nobody can order you to stop throwing tricks in the terrain park and flying off jumps.

“I grew up during the X Games boom. That’s my identity,” he said. “I still get rad every single day.”

This resort has a taste-tempting trick up its sleeve that Jeff never imagined seeing during a recent trip up the mountains – a McDonald’s with the world’s first and only ski-thru window

A Swedish ski resort has come up with an unexpectedly unique way to top up your tummy while sliding down the slopes – with the unlikely help of a fast food giant.

Everyone who has been lucky enough to give it a go knows skiing is hungry work. And in minus double-digit Scandinavian temperatures, just the shivering burns enough calories to have you scouring the wintry landscape for lunch, a warm snack or hot drink.

Of course, there are all manner of options and temptations in the cosy or cavernous cafeterias and restaurants up and down the mountain. As I found out during a recent Crystal Ski trip, Lindvallen in western Sweden has another taste-tempting trick up its sleeve that I never imagined seeing during a recent trip up the mountains – a McDonald’s with the world’s first and only ski-thru window. Yes, really.

It might not seem a natural combination, and certainly looks odd. If you didn’t know it was there, you could well do a double-take as you ski down Valletorget’s central slope, look past the Experium Express chair lift, to the right of the vast Experiumtorget base building, and spot that unmistakably familiar structure.

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It’s curious enough to see the famous Golden Arches rising incongruously out of the snow, a dark wood-clad, multi-branded, single-story outlet of the worldwide chain, with full wraparound windows and the unusual addition of foot-deep snow covering the whole roof and rows of ski racks out front.

But the real surprise comes when you clock the outside service window. They’ve even given it a special, slightly tongue-in-cheek name – McSki. Opened in the resort in Sälen in western Sweden 30 years ago, even if you’re not a Maccies fan, it’s surely impossible to resist having a go.

The vast area linking several resorts has just got a lot closer after TUI launched flights direct to Scandinavian Mountains Airport, just a 20-minute transfer away. You don’t get the full drive-thru sister experience – no menu board with speaker station to place your order. But the full menu is available, seen through the glass on the left, when you ski or snowboard up to the sliding window, greeted by the familiarly uniformed McD’s employee smile from their significantly warmer surroundings.

Within minutes, you’re away with anything from just a McCafé coffee and pastry to a full Big Mac meal deal. There are outside tables, or if you don’t want to miss any more time on the piste than necessary, you can jump right back onto the heated seated lift a few yards away and enjoy your snack or lunch on your way back to the top for more.

To be honest, it’s not ideal or as attractive an option in February. When it’s minus 12 to minus 15, little is more welcome than a break indoors with your hands around a steaming coffee, tea or mug of hot chocolate.

But I’d wager a stack of McDonald’s Monopoly pieces that it comes into its own in March and April, when the weather is more suited to dining on the go.

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As well as hungry work, skiing is also a pricey pastime (which reminds me, the outlet’s prices roughly match the hike at motorway services in the UK).

So when you want to squeeze every run out of your time on the slopes and not spend ages stripping off multiple layers of garb – or in fact even stepping out of your skis – to satiate your thirst and replenish those calories, a quick stop at McSki might be just the order.

Offered alongside the full normal eat-in experience, McSki certainly brings a whole new meaning to the term fast food – and the Swedes and skiers are clearly lovin’ it.

If a snow-style McDonald’s is not your thing then there are other unique chains around the world. Customers can sit at sophisticated tables by a stunning fireplace while enjoy lobster rolls and McNuggets at this McDonald’s McMansion, in the Maine.

And there is another posh McDonald’s in New York. Fans have been wowed by this old mansion that has been restored and turned into a fancy fast-food eatery with a grand staircase, a glass conservatory, and posh booths to eat in. The historic property was previously home to other restaurants and was also used as a funeral home.

Book it

Crystal Ski Holidays (020 8610 3123) offers a bed and breakfast holiday in Högfjället, Sälen in Sweden, staying at the Sälens Högfjällshotell from £818 per person when booked online. Based on two adults sharing a Superior Twin Room, including flights from London Gatwick to Scandinavian Mountains Airport, transfers and 20kg hold luggage per person.

Thousands of vehicles make the crossing every day.

A bridge so steep it’s been dubbed the ‘rollercoaster bridge’ is located in Japan and sees thousands of vehicles cross it daily. Often regarded as one of the steepest in the world, the Eshima Ohashi bridge links Matsue, in the Shimane Prefecture, with Sakaiminato in the Tottori Prefecture.

People say they have ‘nightmares’ after seeing photographs and footage of this bridge, which cost an eye-watering £119m to construct. In some images, it looks as though vehicles must climb at an extremely sharp angle.

It’s approximately 1.1 miles long, rising to 147 feet as it spans the Nakaumi Lake.

The bridge was constructed between 1997 and 2004, replacing a drawbridge that previously existed there. That structure, however, had some significant design flaws.

For instance, it could only handle 4,000 vehicles daily. Today, roughly 14,900 vehicles make the journey across in a 24-hour period, reports the Express.

It was also blocked by ships for approximately eight minutes at a time, and only vehicles weighing under 14 tons were permitted to use it.

In terms of its gradient, it measures approximately 6.1% on the Shimane side, which is where it’s often photographed from. On the opposite side, it’s marginally lower at 5.1%.

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Images and clips of the bridge frequently cause a stir on social media, sparking discussion about its ‘terrifying’ appearance. One individual shared their thoughts on Reddit, saying: “One of my lifelong reoccurring nightmares involves bridges that look like this.”

Another wrote: “Oh. My. God. I get terrified shivers just looking at these pictures. Massive phobia of heights, I don’t think I’d do well on that bad boy.”

However, it’s important to bear in mind that photos of this bridge are often captured using a telephoto lens, which tends to make it appear far more dramatic than it truly is. It’s still quite steep, and extra caution is needed during the winter months to prevent it from becoming blanketed in ice and snow.

According to the Japan National Tourist Organisation, it’s frequently named one of the ‘craziest’ or ‘scariest’ bridges. Even if you’re without a car, you can walk or cycle across it, and it offers an excellent backdrop for photographs.

Additionally, telescopes and binoculars are available for tourists to gaze out across the lake when the weather permits.

IS there such a thing as too much snow?

When booking a ski holiday in Europe, you’re usually panicking there won’t be enough.

But this month, my seven-year-old son and I travelled to La Thuile, in the Aosta Valley in northern Italy, and witnessed up to half a metre of snow falling A DAY.

The resort, which is part of the Espace San Bernado area that also crosses into La Rosiere in France, is nicknamed Little Siberia thanks to its high altitude and reliable snow.

In fact, the intensity of the snowfall meant that La Thuile had a level four out of five avalanche risk when we visited, with several runs closed.

Visitors were warned against off-piste skiing — something to be taken seriously as in nearby Courmayeur two skiers died that same week as a result of a huge avalanche.

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I was concerned we should steer clear of the mountains altogether, but the resort staff couldn’t have been more reassuring.

They were clearly working 24 hours a day to make everything safe — from the comfort of my hotel room at night, I could hear the controlled explosions as they worked to stabilise the slopes.

The ski school was excellent, too. I have no idea how instructors managed to keep control of hundreds of identical kids in blizzard conditions, but they did. And my son had a wonderful time.

For me, it meant off-piste conditions on your average red run, losing sight of my skis under mounds of fresh powder.

In an entire week, I didn’t come across a single patch of hardened icy slope.

La Thuile is an intermediate skier’s paradise, with lovely wide red runs that are more like dark blues, which wind all the way down the mountain.

There are plenty of blues and blacks too, and if you fancy a trip to France, the lift pass takes you over the border into La Rosiere.

The ski passes are considerably more affordable than in most of France though.

Despite the fact that Italy is the place to be this year, thanks to the recent Winter Olympics taking place there, a ski holiday in the Italian Alps is surprisingly easier on the wallet than other European countries.

In this year’s Post Office ski report, Italy boasted several of the top ten most affordable resorts in Europe, including our pick of La Thuile.

A six-day pass cost £265 for an adult and £187 for a child in high season. Ski and boot hire cost from £79 for kids and £126 for adults.

As we had travelled with ski holiday operator Crystal, they organised all of that for us ahead of the trip, as well as my son’s ski lessons.

In fact, they planned so much that it felt a bit like holidaying with a parent.

The Crystal reps were there to greet us at the airport, at the ski shop when we collected our equipment and at the ski school every morning.

And on the return bus to the airport they even told us the number of our check-in desk.

Their app was excellent too. It told me everything, from where and when to find my airport transfer, to the kinds of non-ski activities you could get up to and the best restaurants.

Much like the lift passes, the restaurants were cheaper than many in French and Austrian resorts.

Even on the mountain, a pizza, large beer and (the gloopiest) hot chocolate cost just over £15 — and came with the best service ever in a busy tourist ski spot.

I’d forgotten quite how perfect the hospitality in Italy is, I’m convinced nowhere does it better.

Our hotel, Le Miramonti, was a historic Alpine hotel in the centre of La Thuile, a ten-minute walk from the main ski lifts.

With a spa that became part of our daily apres-ski routine, comfortable rustic bedrooms, a lounge with a roaring fire and a bar with mountain views (and a very relaxed attitude to children), it was a great place to chill at the end of a day on the slopes.

But by far its best selling point was that aforementioned hospitality. A family-owned 4* hotel where the staff put most 5* properties to shame.

But the cherry on top had to be the waiters in the restaurant, where we had breakfast and a four-course meal each evening.

Every waiter was on first-name terms with my son, exchanging Pokemon tips, drawing him goodbye artwork and slipping him extra treats.

By the end of our stay, we felt like we were part of the family.