I’m riding a salt-coloured horse through the Dragonja valley, deep in the green hills of Slovenian Istria. Electric-blue dragonflies zip over the river as we gallop past olive trees and vineyards. The landscape rises steeply in a series of grassy terraces, and at the top of the hill we rein in the sweating horses to take in the view. Far below, the huge grids of solinas (salt pans), glittery and light-blue in the early morning light, look strange and somehow elegant against the wild, expansive sea beyond.
The Istrian peninsula is the largest in the Adriatic Sea, with 90% of it in Croatia and smaller portions in Slovenia and Italy. I’ve come to explore the Slovenian section. At just 29 miles (47km), the country’s coastline is one of the shortest in Europe, from the Italian city of Trieste down to the Croatian border, but it boasts colourful seaside towns, hilltop villages and an emerging gastronomy scene.
We ride back to Kmetija Medljan, the farm where I’m staying, in time for breakfast – served at long communal tables under the shade of a mulberry tree – with freshly laid eggs, strawberries from the garden and homemade bread. The Kodarin family bought the land in the 1980s and today the farm is run by Marina, Marko and their son Tilen. There are simple rooms near the stables, rustic apartments in the old farmhouse and plans to build treehouses in the future. For now, it feels much as it must have done 250 years ago. House martins flit through the air hunting insects, chickens cluck in the orchard, and horses graze among the olive trees. The coast is just a 10-minute drive away, but the peace of the Istrian hills is what guests come for – along with Marina’s delicious home cooking (her take on traditional Slovenian noodle soup is a favourite).
Not far from the farm is the Saltworks Museum, where I learn more about the Sečovlje salt pans I glimpsed from the hillside. Housed in three former salt-workers’ houses, the museum has interactive displays and abandoned pans you can visit. Salt is still harvested by hand in the working part of the salt pans, historian Prof Flavio Bonin explains as we walk around large crystallisation basins where sea water once ran through a series of shallow pools with the salt becoming increasingly concentrated. Istrian salt is prized for its quality and whiteness, the solni cvet, or salt flower, having a delicate, slightly sweet taste.
There’s a stark beauty to this empty landscape, and the solinas are also an important haven for wildlife. A black-winged stilt with bright orange legs stalks slowly through the pans in search of lunch, and snow-white egrets rise up from the marshlands into the azure sky as I watch.
My next stop is medieval Piran, a little way up the coast towards Italy, perhaps the most beautiful of Slovenia’s seaside towns. The Venetian Republic ruled Istria for five centuries and took one-fifth of the salt produced in tax, while a seventh went to Piran, which became wealthy as a result. The Venetian influence is everywhere, from the elegant painted houses in shades of lemon, orange and coral, to the Italian-inspired culinary scene. Rostelin is known for its handmade pasta, though for me a dish of delicate raw scallops, served with thin slices of black truffle, steals the show.
Moon Bay in Strunjan landscape park is one of Slovenia’s loveliest beaches. Photograph: Giuseppe Anello/Alamy
I’m staying in Benečanka Casa Veneziana in Tartini Square, which is the finest example of Venetian gothic architecture in the town. Legend has it that, in the 15th century, a Venetian merchant fell in love with a beautiful girl from Piran and built her the prettiest house in the city. But their relationship scandalised the town’s gossips, since he had a family back in Venice. So he defiantly had the inscription Lasa pur dir (let them talk) engraved on the front wall.
The water surrounding Piran is a protected marine area, and in the afternoon I go scuba diving, hoping to spot sea horses, which live in the sea grass meadows close to shore. The shallow reef runs close to the promenade, so I can walk straight into the water with my instructor. The sea horses prove elusive, but there is plenty of other marine life, including a jaunty, hairy crab wearing a bright orange marine sponge as a cap. There are no sandy beaches here, but people swim from the rocky waterfront, which has ladders down into the water.
Ljubljanska Ulica, an arty street in Izola. Photograph: Laura Coffey
From Piran, it’s an easy walk along the coastal path to Izola, 7 miles to the east. The trail cuts through the Strunjan landscape park and passes one of Slovenia’s loveliest beaches, Moon Bay. I stop for lunch on the breezy terrace of the Belvedere hotel. Located at the top of a hill, it offers excellent seafood and sweeping views to Trieste.
Izola manages to be laid-back and vibrant at the same time. From my base at the supremely comfortable DeGrassi hotel, I stroll to Ljubljanska Ulica, a street bursting with artists’ workshops, pink and peach houses and colourful bunting. Music is playing, old men drink coffee and kids play in the street.
Along from here is a tiny museum, where cultural heritage expert Gregor Benčina tells me the history of the place. Izola was originally a poor fishing village. “Piran was our mortal enemy,” Gregor says solemnly. “In medieval times, there was a law that when an Izolan died, they could leave their wealth to anyone local or international, but it was forbidden to leave anything to people from Piran.”
The next day, local guide Matic Horvat takes me on an ebike tour of the surrounding countryside. We zip effortlessly through the Šavrini hills, planted with vines, as well as olive, cherry, fig and almond trees, and swoop down the endless descent from Gažon to Koper, which makes me whoop like a child. In the port city, we stop for a zingy orange and ginger ice-cream, before a leisurely return to Izola.
At Medljan farm, breakfast is served at communal tables under the shade of trees
As the heat of the afternoon cools into one of those long, languid evenings, I stop by Manzioli wine bar, on the main square, for an aperitivo of fresh rosé from local winemaker Zaro. The bar’s owner, Marko, explains that his family’s vineyards are located very close to the water and the salt informs the minerality, which gives this wine its depth of flavour. Across the square, Bujol is one of superstar Slovene chef Ana Roš’s favourite places to eat on the coast, and I feast on plump mussels and fritto misto (mixed fry) with a killer homemade tabasco sauce.
The next day, teenagers belt out punk rock from the bandstand, and Istrian food producers set out their wares at the Pier of Tastes food market, which is held monthly from April to October (except in July and August).
Keen to learn more about the local produce and award-winning wines, I join Nina Golob, from the tourist board, to visit some artisan producers in nearby villages (she’s launching her own tours soon). Tilen Praprotnik is dedicated to reviving indigenous grape varieties and produces an extraordinary malvasia wine, while at Korenika & Moškon we taste different varieties of olive oil, including belica, which has a powerful kick. We finish up at Gostilna Korte, where Lejla, the owner, brings out dish after dish of delights, including steak served with a wild asparagus sauce that has me practically licking the plate.
On my final morning in Izola, I wake early. The sea is warm as I slip in and swim past the lighthouse as the sun rises higher. Summertime on the Slovenian Riviera – it may not be big, but it hits the spot for a different kind of seaside break.
Laura Coffey’s book, Enchanted Islands: Travels Through Myth & Magic, Love & Loss, is published by Summersdale at £10.99. To support the Guardian, order your copy atguardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply
Approval of populist former leader is a shift for the EU country that was recently run by a liberal government.
Published On 22 May 202622 May 2026
Slovenia’s parliament has voted to bring back right-wing politician Janez Jansa as prime minister, after his last stint in power ended in 2022.
Legislators in the 90-member assembly voted 51-36 for Jansa on Friday – marking a shift for the small European Union country recently run by a liberal government.
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Jansa will need to return to parliament within the next 15 days for another vote to confirm his future Cabinet.
His appointment concludes a post-election stalemate after the vote two months ago ended in a tie when former liberal Prime Minister Robert Golob’s Freedom Movement was unable to create a parliamentary majority by only securing a thin margin.
On Thursday, Jansa and his populist Slovenian Democratic Party (SDS) signed a coalition agreement with several centre-right groups to form a new government, which now holds 43 seats in the assembly.
It will be the fourth time 67-year-old Jansa has been in office.
He was the country’s leader from 2004 to 2008, 2012 to 2013 and 2020 to 2022.
In the March 22 elections, the SDS came second with 28 seats, behind Golob’s Freedom Movement, which secured 29 seats.
Former Prime Minister of Slovenia Robert Golob during the NATO summit on June 25, 2025 [Pierre Crom/Getty Images]
The new coalition government is made up of the SDS, New Slovenia, Democrats, the Slovenian People’s Party and Focus. It also secured additional backing from the right-wing Resnica party, which will not formally join the government.
In a speech laying out the government’s future goals, Jansa listed the economy, the fight against corruption and red tape, and decentralisation.
He also promised to lower taxes for the rich and support private education and healthcare.
Earlier this month, Jansa told reporters that the coalition would ensure a “cheaper state but with better quality”.
Jansa is an admirer of US President Donald Trump and was also a close ally of Hungary’s former populist Prime Minister Viktor Orban, who was defeated in a landslide election last month.
The former PM is a supporter of Israel and was a staunch critic of the Golob government’s decision to recognise a Palestinian state in 2024.
During his last term in office, Jansa faced accusations of clamping down on democratic institutions and press freedoms, leading to protests then and scrutiny from the European Union.
Spain, Netherlands, Ireland, Iceland and Slovenia all withdrew in protest against Israel’s participation in the midst of its war on Gaza.
Published On 16 May 202616 May 2026
As the Eurovision Song Contest took to the stage for the Saturday night final in Vienna, thousands protested outside against Israel’s inclusion, and five countries boycotted the event over the genocidal war on Gaza.
Protesters marched through the Austrian capital to highlight what critics described as a double standard. The European Broadcasting Union (EBU) organisers refused to exclude Israel, despite banning Russia following its invasion of Ukraine four years ago.
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Eurovision, which attracted 166 million viewers last year, is seeing the largest boycott in its 70-year history.
Spain, the Netherlands, Ireland, Iceland and Slovenia all withdrew because of Israel’s inclusion, with some of their national broadcasters refusing to air the show.
Spain’s Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez, who has emerged as one of Israel’s strongest critics in Europe, said on Friday that the decision puts Spain on “the right side of history”.
Last month, more than 1,000 artists called on fans to boycott Eurovision in an open letter against Israel’s participation. Among the artists were outspoken critics of Israel, Macklemore and Paloma Faith. Macklemore has released songs protesting against Israel’s war in Gaza.
Double standards
On Monday, Amnesty International Secretary-General Agnes Callamard denounced the EBU for allowing Israel to participate.
“The failure of the European Broadcasting Union to suspend Israel from Eurovision, as it did with Russia, is an act of cowardice and an illustration of blatant double standards when it comes to Israel,” she said.
Reporting from Vienna, Al Jazeera’s Charlie Angela said 2,000 demonstrators gathered in the city earlier on Saturday to protest against Israel’s participation.
Angela reported that protesters accused the competition of normalising Israel’s actions in Gaza, adding that Eurovision was “bending over backwards” to justify including Israel while excluding Russia.
Russia has faced a widespread cultural boycott following the Ukraine invasion. It is banned from international football tournaments, and FIFA and UEFA have excluded Russian domestic teams from all competitions, including the Champions League.
The winner of Eurovision will be selected by both a professional jury and TV viewers voting for their favourite act.
Austria won the competition last year, with Israel second.
The Israeli government was later accused of unfairly influencing voting. New rules have since been introduced.
This lesser-known city break destination is less than two-and-a-half hours from the UK, and it’s a great place for people who love walking as its city centre has a huge car-free zone
The city has incredible sights such as its hilltop castle(Image: Getty Images)
A new easyJet route will connect London-Luton Airport with an often overlooked European city break destination that’s ideal for long weekends away.
With a flight time of under two-and-a-half hours, this Central European destination may not be on your radar for a short break, yet it offers fairytale castles, a medieval old town, and the opportunity to explore on the river.
The new route to Ljubljana begins on October 26 and prices start at £40.99 one-way. Autumn is a great time to visit this leafy city, or you could book later in the year and visit the Festive Fair Christmas market to enjoy traditional sausages and mulled wine from stalls along the river.
Ljubljana Castle dominates the skyline thanks to its position on a green hill overlooking the city. This medieval fortress looks like something from a child’s storybook, and it’s either accessed by road through a forest trail or on a funicular railway that gives great views across the city.
Inside, it’s just as spectacular. You’ll find an ornate chapel, vast formal gardens, and even the quirky Museum of Puppetry. There are also restaurants with outdoor terraces where you can sit and watch the sun go down.
If you love simply walking around and exploring new cities, then Ljubljana is perfect as it’s compact and easy to get around. As a bonus, it has the largest car-free zone in the European Union, taking up a large part of the city centre. This means you aren’t navigating your way through traffic and roads when you explore.
Some places to explore on foot include Prešernov Trg Square, famous for the distinctive pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation. In this cobbled square, you’ll also find Področje lastnega vremena, a unique and interactive artwork that translates as The Area With Ljubljana’s Own Weather. Step onto it and you’ll feel the rain on your face no matter what the weather.
Cross the Tromostovje, or triple bridge, and you’ll find the medieval old town, full of colourful baroque architecture and winding lanes to explore. Another option is to see the city by boat. Old-fashioned wooden boats glide along the river, and can be an excellent way to see the bourgeois townhouses and sights such as the Dragon Bridge with its dramatic sculptures.
Compared to major European city break destinations, Ljubljana can be a more affordable option. According to Numeo, a meal at an inexpensive restaurant can be found for around £13, while local beers cost around £2.60.
There are lots of accommodation options to choose from right in the car-free centre. Zlata Ladjica Boutique Hotel is a 5-star property that overlooks the river and has individually designed rooms with warm, rustic accents. Rooms start from around £250 a night. Or for a simpler, budget option, try Cacao Rooms, which offers clean, comfortable rooms steps from the historic squares at around £107 a night.
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