shame

Visitors to one Italian destination say it’s “incredible”, but it was once a place shunned by many

Italy is a beautiful country with each province very different from the next – and each Italian area has its own identity and culture. While holidaymakers typically flock to the Amalfi Coast, cities such as Florence or Rome or Lake Garda or Lake Como, there’s a lesser-known spot that has left visitors speechless with delight.

Once famous for being the ‘shame of Italy’, Matera, a city based high on a rocktop in the southern Basilicata is now a luxurious tourist getaway. Here, a collection of old cave dwellings forged into the mountains in an area called Sassi offer a peaceful inland holiday infused with history.

The cave dwellings were evacuated by the Italian government in the 1950s, hailed as slums at the time with poor living conditions. Thousands of residents were transferred into modern housing and Prime Minister Alcide De Gasperi, of the time, described Matera as a “national disgrace”.

It’s likely that not all the locals wanted to leave their Matera homes at the time, but the spot was deemed a health hazard with no ample sewage system or electricity – and it was poverty-stricken.

One former Matera resident once described living conditions as “brutal,” with “families of maybe nine or 10 children, sleeping next to mules and pigs”.

“We were dying of hunger”, said Luigi Plasmati recalling his family’s life in Matera several years ago, when he was 89-years-old.

These days things have really turned around – and several Airbnb cave-style accommodation stays are described as “exceptional” by those who visit.

Sassi di Matera covers two districts, with the city of Matera situated on a mountain top.

One TripAdvisor review by a guest staying in Pietragialla, which looks across to the city of Matera, described their cave stay as an “incredible experience”.

The cave stay reviewer wrote: “I am speechless for how good we felt. It was an incredible experience and everything was unbelievable. The room is fantastic. The bathroom is the best bathroom I’ve ever been and the bath tub is from another planet. But the most incredible thing is the silence.”

The visitor went on to describe “pure sleep” they experienced in the cave due to the peacefulness and darkness as the cave has “no windows”.

Breakfast, they went on, was already prepared the previous night so you “can have it at any time” and it included fresh fruit, juices, marmalades, fresh local bread, almonds and even almond milk.

The TripAdvisor reviewer added: “Once you leave the room you have in front of you the whole city centre, it looks like a fairy tale. Pietragialla is an experience that needs to be done once in life at least.”

The Sassi district boasts museums such as the Cave House in the Sassi of Matera, which show visitors what peasant life was like in the region just a few decades ago.

There are also churches made of rock that date back to the 13th-century, with St. Lucia alle Malve (a Catholic church in Matera) being described as the “most beautiful” with its ancient mosaics dating back centuries.