I ditched the freezing UK for a pretty European city with tram tours, rooftop pools and famous beers
THE first taste of oyster is like diving headfirst into an oncoming tidal wave.
And I am immediately struck by how fresh my meal is as I sit outside the Marisqueira Azul restaurant on Lisbon’s bustling Praca do Comercio square.
Despite it being the middle of winter, I feel the pleasant warmth of the sun tickling my neck as I take a sip of white wine.
Just two and a half hours from the UK, the Portuguese capital feels like a world away from the icy London I’ve left behind.
After a plate of oysters, our travelling party is met with dishes of octopus, shrimp and cod galore.
For a pescatarian like me, Portugal is a dream — with the locals very proud of their seafood.
To press home this point, we are next whisked off to the Codfish History Interpretation Centre, where we learn about Lisbon’s long history with the fish.
The city is full of brilliant museums and galleries — some famous, others a little more off the beaten track, but no less interesting.
Next, we take a private tram tour of the city, which can be booked by groups.
And after passing boutique hotel the Palacio Ramalhete, where Madonna lived during her move to Portugal in 2018, we find ourselves at the Royal Treasure Museum.
This little gem allows you to set foot inside the spectacular Ajuda National Palace, formerly home of the Portuguese royal family.
Portugal has been a republic for more than 100 years, but what remains from the former monarchy is plenty of bling now on display to the public.
After going through a security check, we are escorted in to one of the largest vaults in the world, where we can check out everything from jewels, gold and diamonds to gifts from other countries and the silver tableware that would be used for royal banquets.
As someone who enjoys history and shiny things, this museum is a smash hit. After a pit stop for a pastel de nata (Portugal’s iconic egg custard tart pastry), we head to our hotel.
The MACAM Hotel is an 18th-century palace that now houses 64 luxurious rooms and a contemporary art museum.
Come the spring, the place to be for guests will be the rooftop pool and bar.
For art connoisseurs heading to Lisbon, Gulbenkian’s Centre of Modern Art is a must-see attraction.
Preserved head
The stunning gallery, originally designed by Brit Sir Leslie Martin, was recently renovated by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and is a sight to behold.
We also visit the Aguas Livres Aqueduct, which was built in the 1700s to transport water into Lisbon.
Crossing the Alcantara Valley, the stunning, 3,087ft stone construction features 18 arches reaching up to 215ft high.
The Roman-inspired aqueduct survived Lisbon’s huge earthquake of 1755, despite the disaster having devastated much of the city, with tremors felt as far away as Seville.
After it stopped being used as an aqueduct, the imposing structure became a public path until a 19th- century serial killer caused its closure.
Diogo Alves went on to be named the “Aqueduct Murderer” — and Portuguese folklore has him guilty of throwing as many as 70 people off it after ambushing and robbing them.
Following his execution, Alves’ head was severed and preserved in a glass jar that was donated to the University of Lisbon.
It remains on display in the university’s Anatomical Theatre.
The aqueduct now provides a sprawling view of the city.
Ahead of dinner, we also visit the Church of St Anthony in Lisbon’s Misericordia district to take in a fado concert.
Fado music is as traditional as it gets in Portugal, and its tales of heartbreak and sorrow are even more special to witness in such a poignant setting.
After the brilliant one-hour concert, we head to Pica-Pau, a restaurant that celebrates traditional Portuguese food and more excellent seafood, of course.
In the mood for beer rather than wine that evening, I ask about whether to get a Super Bock or Sagres.
“Super Bock for the north, Sagres for the south,” I’m told.
The good folk of Lisbon are fiercely proud of their favoured beer Sagres, while those from Porto in the north prefer Super Bock.
When in Lisbon . . . so I dutifully order the Sagres. Perfect.
GO: Lisbon
GETTING THERE: TAP Air Portugal flies to Lisbon from Heathrow. Return fares from £114 in February. See flytap.com.
STAYING THERE: Hotel Britania Art Deco has double rooms from £155 per night. See lisbonheritagehotels.com.
Rooms at the MACAM Hotel from £270 per night. See hotel.macam.pt/en.
OUT & ABOUT: The Lisboa card gives free entry to more than 50 museums and monuments, unlimited use of public transport and discounts.
Prices from £25.50pp for 24 hours. See visitlisboa.com/en/p/lisboa-card.
MORE INFO: See visitlisboa.com.