road

Incredible road trip across 6 European countries that everyone ‘must do once’

Want to see the most beautiful scenes in one trip? A must-do country European road trip will take you to six countries, where you will see the sea, mountains, castles and breath-taking views

Hopping on a plane and getting to your holiday destination in hours is a luxury, but one thing that everyone should do at least once in their lives is a road trip.

TikTok account Living Our Memories shared the perfect itinerary, where the key stops included France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Germany, Luxembourg and Belgium. The total route is 23 hours and 49 minutes, non-stop.

Gathering over a million views, the couple, who shared their travels with their 5K followers, captioned the video: “An epic road trip across 6 countries you must have to do at least once in your life.”

Champagne, France

First stop, the French region of Champagne, known for its scenic vineyards. Located in the northeast of France, their sparkling white wine is what makes them so well-known. Visitors can see the cities of Reims and Épernay, as well as the villages like Hautvillers and Méry-sur-Ay.

Wine lovers can make a pit stop and tour the famous Champagne houses such as Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, and Taittinger. Those who prefer adrenaline can do some outdoor activities such as biking through the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims.

Stausee Steg, Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein’s turquoise waters in the middle of the most gorgeous greenery scenes, facing the mountains. It’s the perfect place for a swim in the lake or a picnic with your loved ones.

If you’re feeling sporty or want to capture the perfect shot, you can hike the mountains and get the perfect scene. According to AllTrails, it’s best to bring water shoes for those who plan to swim or walk near the rocky edges.

Lake Eibsee, Germany

Nature lovers will love Lake Eibsee in Germany. The waters are crystal clear with views of the Zugspitze mountains.

Some of the activities for visitors are hiking the 7.5 km (4.6 miles) walk around the lake, as it provides stunning views. You can also rent a boat or a canoe to explore the lake and the surrounding islands. If you’re brave enough, you can also swim in the waters – but it’s super cold.

Neuschwanstein Castle, Germany

Located in Bavaria, Germany, in the foothills of the Alps, Neuschwanstein Castle is just the exact layout as the ones in the Disney movies. In fact, it’s best known for the inspiration behind Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle.

The 19th-century historic castle overlooks the narrow Pollat gorge, and it’s close to the Alpsee and Schwansee lakes. Therefore, it makes it an ideal place to visit on the way to the upcoming location of the road trip.

Tickets cost 20 euros (£17.36), but children under the age of 18 can access the castle completely free of charge.

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Luxembourg City, Luxembourg

Luxembourg’s tourism has increased over the years, making it the perfect place for a city break or a day trip. The city has a unique blend of history and culture, with a lot to offer to visitors and locals alike.

Its historical sites include UNESCO World Heritage sites and famous landmarks such as the Grand Ducal Palace and the Cathédrale Notre-Dame. The best thing about Luxembourg is that you can enjoy it all year round, and the public transportation is free.

Dinant, Belgium

To conclude the road trip, what better way to do it than in Belgium? A more tranquil side of the country, with beautiful scenery and history. Its most popular tourist attraction is the Maison Leffe. The town’s location is also ideal along the River Meuse, as it overlooks the water and the pastel-coloured houses.

Visitors can walk through the cobbled streets, take a boat tour and even participate in water activities such as kayaking on the nearby Lesse River.

Bruges, Belgium

Perfect for a city break, a small yet fulfilling town with a lot to offer. If you’re a fan of medieval settings, this is the place for you. However, its popularity comes with big crowds and higher costs.

Bruges is also famous for its Belgian waffles, fries, chocolate and beer – so, come with an empty stomach to indulge the best sweet and savoury flavours.

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A road trip to Big Sur’s South Coast — without crowds

Sometimes, the best place you can go is a dead end. Especially when that dead end is surrounded by crashing surf on empty beaches, dramatic cliffs and lonely trails through forests thick with redwoods.

That’s the situation along Big Sur’s South Coast right now.

A chunk of the cliff-clinging highway has been closed for a series of landslide repairs since January 2023, making the classic, coast-hugging, 98-mile San Simeon-Big Sur-Carmel drive impossible. Caltrans has said it aims to reopen the route by the end of March 2026, if weather permits.

Map shows locations along Hwy. 1 on the Central Coast: towns Lucia, Gorda, San Simeon and Cambria; and attractions/landmarks such as Limekiln State Park, Ragged Point and Piedras Blancas.

That means the 44-mile stretch from San Simeon to Lucia will likely be lonely for at least six more months. Travelers from the near north (Carmel, for instance) will need to detour inland on U.S. 101. Meanwhile, many Canadian travelers (usually eager explorers of California) are boycotting the U.S. altogether over President Trump’s tariff policies and quips about taking over their country.

And so, for those of us in Southern California, the coming months are a chance to drive, hike or cycle in near solitude among tall trees, steep slopes and sea stacks. The weather is cooler and wetter. But over the three October days I spent up there, the highway was quieter than I’ve seen in 40-plus years of driving the coast.

Moreover, those who make the trip will be supporting embattled local businesses, which remain open, some with reduced prices. Fall rates at the Ragged Point Inn, 15 miles north of Hearst Castle, for example, start at about $149 nightly — $100 less than when the road was open.

“It’s kind of perfect,” said Claudia Tyler of Santa Barbara, on her way from Salmon Creek Falls to two nights of camping at Plaskett Creek in Los Padres National Forest.

“I am sorry for the businesses…,” Tyler said, “but it’s good for the traveler.”

Further north, David Sirgany, 64, of Morro Bay, was getting ready to surf at Sand Dollar Beach, thinking about coastal erosion, climate change and this moment in history.

“To me,” he said, “it feels like the end of a time that will never be again.”

The Ragged Point Inn stands at the southern end of Big Sur.

The Ragged Point Inn stands at the southern end of Big Sur.

The closed area, known as Regent’s Slide, begins about 26 miles north of Ragged Point, toward the south end of Big Sur, and covers 6.8 miles. Thus, you’d need to detour inland via U.S. 101 to reach most of Big Sur’s best-known attractions, including the Bixby Creek Bridge, Pfeiffer Beach, Nepenthe restaurant, Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, McWay Falls and Esalen Institute.

But there’s plenty to explore on the stretch from San Simeon north to the roadblock at Lucia (milepost 25.3). Just be careful of the $8.79-per-gallon gas at the Gorda Springs Resort. (At $6.99, the Ragged Point gas station isn’t quite so high.)

San Simeon Bay Pier at William Randolph Hearst Memorial Beach.

San Simeon Bay Pier at William Randolph Hearst Memorial Beach.

Here, from south to north, are several spots to explore from San Simeon to Lucia. Be sure to double-check the weather and highway status before you head out.

See Hearst’s castle. Or just one of his zebras.

I’ve been hoping to see some of the Hearst zebras in the hills of San Simeon for years, and this time I finally did — a single zebra, surrounded by cows in a pasture beneath distant Hearst Castle.

That was enough to make my brief stop at the castle visitor center (which has a restaurant, historical displays and shop) well worth it. Other travelers, however, might want to actually take a tour ($35 per adult and up) of the 165-room Hearst compound (which is officially known as Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument).

The state park system’s visitor tallies from June through August show that 2025 was slightly slower than 2024, which was slightly slower than 2023.

Perhaps with that in mind, the castle last fall added “Art Under the Moonlight” tours, which continue this autumn on select Friday and Saturday nights through Nov. 16. The castle also decorates for the holidays.

If you’re spending the night, the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort has 90 rooms (for as little as $169) and firepits overlooking the sea.

A zebra, part of the Hearst Castle animal collection, is seen from the visitor center off Highway 1 in San Simeon.

A zebra, part of the Hearst Castle animal collection, is seen from the visitor center off Highway 1 in San Simeon.

San Simeon Bay Pier or hike San Simeon Point Trail

My southernmost hike was at the San Simeon Bay Pier. From the parking lot there, walk north on the beach and follow a path up into a eucalyptus grove. That puts you on the 2.5-mile round-trip San Simeon Point Trail (owned by Hearst Corp. but open to the public.)

At first, the route is uneventful and surrounded by imported eucalyptus (now being thinned) and pines. But there’s a payoff waiting at the point, where tides lap on a little sand beach, waves crash on dramatic black rocks and pelicans perch on sea stacks. Look back and you see the beach, the pier and the hills of the central coast sprawling beyond them.

San Simeon Point Trail.

Then, if you’re as hungry as I was, you rapidly retrace steps and head to the Seaside Foods deli counter in Sebastian’s General Store, a block from the pier. (I recommend the Coastal Cowboy tri-tip sandwich, $21. But you could also take your meal across the street to the Hearst Ranch Winery tasting room.)

Find the Piedras Blancas elephant seal viewing area, then go beyond it

California’s coast is a catalog of uncertainties, from rising tides and crumbling cliffs to private landowners discouraging public access. But we can count on the elephant seals of Piedras Blancas.

Elephant seals gather at Piedras Blancas, north of San Simeon.

Elephant seals gather at Piedras Blancas, north of San Simeon.

Once you pull off Highway 1 into the observation area parking lot, no matter the time of year, you’re likely to see at least a few hulking sea creatures flopped on the sand and skirmishing for position.

Because it’s a great spectacle and it’s free, there are usually dozens of spectators along the shore. But most of those spectactors don’t bother to follow the boardwalk north and continue on the Boucher Trail, a 1.9-mile path along the bluff tops and across a meadow, leading to striking views of sea stacks and Piedras Blancas Light Station.

Along Boucher Trail, just north of the elephant seal viewing area at Piedras Blancas.

Along Boucher Trail, just north of the elephant seal viewing area at Piedras Blancas.

(BTW: Visitors need an advance reservation to tour the Piedras Blancas Light Station. At press time, all tours were canceled because of the federal government shutdown.)

At Ragged Point, that Big Sur vibe kicks in

About 10 miles beyond the elephant seals, the raw, horizontal coastal landscape morphs into a more vertical scene and the highway begins to climb and twist.

Right about here, just after San Carpoforo Creek, is where you find the Ragged Point Inn, a handy place to stop for an hour or an evening. It has 39 rooms, flat space for kids to run around, cliff-top views, a restaurant, gift shop, gas station and a snack bar that’s been closed since the highway has been blocked.

Ragged Point Inn.

Right now, this stretch of the highway “is a great place to cycle,” said Diane Ramey, whose family owns the inn. “I wouldn’t do it at a normal time. But now the roads are uncrowded enough.”

To recover from the “frightening” drop in business when the road first closed, the inn has put more emphasis on Sunday brunch, the gift shop and live music on summer weekends, Ramey said.

At Salmon Creek Falls, roaring water meets tumbled rocks

At the Salmon Falls trailhead, 3.6 miles north of Ragged Point, there’s room for about 10 cars in the parking area on the shoulder of the highway.

When the highway is open, those spots are often all full. Not now. And it’s only about 0.3 of a mile to the base of the 120-foot falls, where there’s plenty of shade for the weary and boulder-scrambling for those who are bold. In the hour I spent scrambling and resting, I encountered just two couples and one family, all enjoying the uncrowded scene.

Salmon Falls.

If you want a longer, more challenging hike, the falls trailhead also leads to the Salmon Creek Trail, a 6.6-mile out-and-back journey through pines, oaks and laurels that includes — gulp — 1,896 feet of elevation gain.

The yurts and quirks of Treebones Resort

Treebones, about 14 miles north of Ragged Point and 2 miles north of the rustic, sleepy Gorda Springs Resort, is an exercise in style and sustainability, producing its own power and drawing water from its own aquifer.

Treebones Resort, just off Highway 1 in the South Coast area of Big Sur.

Treebones Resort, just off Highway 1 in the South Coast area of Big Sur.

Born as a family business in 2004, Treebones has 19 off-the-grid units, mostly yurts, whose rounded interiors are surprisingly spacious. Its Lodge restaurant offers chef’s-choice four-course dinners ($95 each) and a sushi bar.

If you book a yurt (they begin at $385), you’ll find your headboard is a felted wood rug from Kyrgyzstan (where yurts go back at least 2,500 years). The resort also has five campsites ($135 nightly, advance reservation required) that come with breakfast, hot showers and pool access.

A deck at Treebones Resort.

A deck at Treebones Resort.

“For the last 20 years, we were basically 100% occupied from April through October,” assistant general manager Megan Handy said, leading me on a tour. Since the closure, “we’ve stayed booked on the weekends, but we’ve seen at least a 40% decline midweek.”

Once you’re north of Treebones, beach and trail possibilities seem to multiply.

Sand Dollar Beach.

Stand by the edge (but not too close) on the Pacific Valley Bluff Trail

Several people told me I shouldn’t miss the Pacific Valley Bluff Trail, a flat route that begins just north of Sand Dollar Beach. It runs about 1.6 miles between the roadside and the bluffs over the Pacific. Here you’ll see sea stacks in every shape, along with a dramatic, solitary tree to the north. In about 45 minutes of walking amid a land’s end panorama, I never saw another soul. Plenty of cow patties, though, and a few patches of poison oak, which turns up often near Big Sur trails.

A little farther north, I did run into four people walking the beach at Mill Creek Picnic Area. I found even more at Kirk Creek Campground, which was booked solid because it has some of the best ocean-view campsites in the area and it’s on the ocean side of the highway.

Waves crash near Sand Dollar Beach.

Waves crash near Sand Dollar Beach.

Big trees and a meandering creek at Limekiln State Park

Limekiln State Park is one California’s youngest state parks, having been set aside in the 1990s. But its occupants, especially the redwoods, have been around much longer.

And now, after park closures over storm damage and infrastructure issues and a reopening early this year, we have a chance to enjoy the place again. Or at least part of it. The park’s campground, Hare Creek Trail and Falls Trail remain closed.

But there’s still plenty of opportunity to check out the rare overlap of species from northern and southern California. As the Save the Redwoods League notes, “You can’t find both yucca and coast redwoods in very many parks.”

The park is about 4.4 miles south of the Highway 1 closure. Entrance is $10 per vehicle. I savored the 1.5-mile out-and-back Limekiln Trail, which is one of the best ways to see redwoods in the area. And once again, no fellow hikers.

Limekiln State Park.

Highway still too busy for you? How about an isolated lodge or a silent monastery?

Just south of the highway closure, the rustic, isolated Lucia Lodge and the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a Benedictine monastery, remain open for overnight guests.

But not everyone knows this. Unless somebody at Google HQ has just made a fix, Google Maps will tell you incorrectly that the hermitage and lodge are beyond the road closure. Nope. They’re both on the south side of the road closure, accessible to northbound traffic. And they’re both really quiet.

“People come here for silent, self-guided retreats,” said Katee Armstrong, guest ministry specialist at New Camaldoli Hermitage. Its accommodations, high on the slopes above the highway, include nine single-occupancy rooms and five cottages with kitchenettes ($145 nightly and up).

Meanwhile, on the ocean side of the highway, the Lucia Lodge’s 10 very basic units are visible from the road. Four of them are cabins that go back to the 1930s, when Highway 1 was new.

Some nights, there are only one or two guests, and those guests typically see no hotel employees, because there’s no lobby and the staff is down to a skeleton crew. (The lodge’s restaurant and lobby burned down in 2021.) The nearest restaurant is at Treebones, about 10 miles south.

“We have to have a conversation with every guest who books with us,” said Jessie McKnight, the lodge reservationist. Many “end up canceling once they understand the situation,” she said. “You’re kind of on your own.”

Ad yet, she added, “it’s so rare to experience Big Sur like this. Once the road opens, I think it’s going to be right back to being a zoo.”

The road to Ragged Point Inn.

The road to Ragged Point Inn.

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The Ashes: How 2002-03 put Michael Vaughan on the road to 2005 glory

Six months later, Vaughan replaced Hussain as Test captain. His mission was to reshape an England team scarred by years of Ashes beatings. Only four of the XI from Sydney made it to the first Ashes Test at Lord’s in 2005.

“It wasn’t two years of waking up and thinking, ‘we’ve got to beat Australia’, because the only way to beat Australia is to win the games before,” says Vaughan. “You can’t suddenly arrive in an Ashes to beat that side having not beaten the other teams.

“It became obvious we were going to have a fresher team, a younger team, a team that had very little baggage. What was very clear in 2002-03, understandably, once we’d lost the first Test it was ‘here we go again’, because a lot of those players had been around the England side in the 1990s.”

Those unforgettable eight weeks of summer in 2005 etched the names of Vaughan and his players into English cricketing folklore. Steve Harmison drawing blood from Ponting, and Andrew Strauss’ catch. Kevin Pietersen’s hair and Gary Pratt’s direct hit. Andrew Flintoff’s batting. Andrew Flintoff’s bowling. Andrew Flintoff’s drinking.

Because of injuries that occurred even before the series ended, the class of 2005 never played together again.

“That moment when you win is the best moment, but also quite deflating because it’s all over,” says Vaughan. “All the stress and pressure were hard to deal with, but you get adrenaline from being in a series like that. When it’s over you wonder what’s next.”

Vaughan did not know it at the time, but lifting the urn was to be his last act as an Ashes cricketer. His troublesome knees meant he played only two more Tests in the 18 months that followed, including missing the defence in Australia in 2006-07. Under the captaincy of Flintoff, and a shadow of the team that won in 2005, England were dismantled 5-0 by an Australia side determined for revenge.

“We got absolutely hammered, and would have got hammered with me playing,” says Vaughan. “We poked the bear.

“It was hard to watch, because a lot of my mates were playing. Once we beat that Australia team once, they weren’t going to allow us to beat them twice, especially in their own backyard.”

Vaughan tearfully stepped down as England skipper in 2008, although still with thoughts of playing in the home Ashes of 2009 under the captaincy of Strauss. Form and knees didn’t allow it. In the four years between Ashes series played in this country, Vaughan went from winning captain to former cricketer. He retired at the age of 34.

“Straussy rang me and said he wanted me to get runs in county cricket and we’d have a look, but my body was knackered,” says Vaughan. “I couldn’t do the training or the work.

“There was the odd morning I woke up and thought, ‘come on, let’s have a go at getting that batting slot’. I was thinking there was a chance.

“I probably retired a little bit too young, but I would have royally embarrassed myself in 2009.”

Considering his lofty standing in recent English cricketing history, Vaughan played relatively few Ashes Tests – 10 of them, five away and five at home.

He will forever be remembered for what he achieved in 2005. It would not have been possible without what happened in 2002-03.

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California gas tax goes up July 1, but leaders say road repairs need even more money

California is poised to charge the highest taxes and fees on gas in the country when an increase kicks in July 1, but officials say the state is still billions of dollars short of what’s needed to properly fix the roads and are considering additional charges.

The gasoline tax is set to climb by 5.6 cents per gallon, the second in a wave of increases approved by state leaders two years ago to raise billions of dollars for road and bridge repairs and mass transit.

Combined with a 12-cent increase that took effect in November 2017, the taxes and vehicle fees approved in a bill known as SB 1 are projected to add $5.4 billion in the coming year to transportation funding.

But officials estimate $130 billion is needed to bring the state’s roads and bridges into a state of good repair. The gas tax increases of 2017 will raise some $52 billion during the first 10 years but that will leave a road repair shortfall of approximately $78 billion.

The tax does not expire after 10 years and will continue to grow with the cost of living in future decades.

“The current funding is not sufficient, it is not enough,” said Tony Akel, a Fresno engineer who is a leader of the American Society of Civil Engineers. “We know that there is a big gap that is a result of years of underfunding.”

The group just released a study that gives California’s roads a “D” grade, saying they are among the worst in the country. State Sen. Jim Beall (D-San Jose), who authored the gas tax measure, said the evaluation appears accurate, but argued it is not a failure of the tax measure, just too early an assessment.

“You won’t see the impact of SB 1 for another couple of years,” Beall said. “The grades are based on actual conditions, and the SB 1 projects are underway but they are not finished. Road conditions will improve.”

The state has completed about 100 transportation projects and 400 more are in the works, according to the administration of Gov. Gavin Newsom.

Projects funded so far include $135.9 million to improve 104 lane miles of Interstate 605 and $54.9 million for 99 lane miles of State Route 1 in Los Angeles County. Projects completed so far include repaving a stretch of Interstate 5 between the 605 and Washington Boulevard in Los Angeles County.

“SB 1 was never expected to completely fund all backlog work, but it has given us a great start to making up for years of underfunding,” said Jeff Burdick, a spokesman for Caltrans.

The increase taking effect next month means the total state taxes and fees on gasoline will be 57.8 cents per gallon, based on the current average price of gas across California.

That will just edge out the 57.6 cents-per-gallon charged by Pennsylvania. Washington state will remain in third place, charging motorists 49.4 cents per gallon.

(Some of the California tax is based on a percentage of the cost of a gallon of gas, so a significant drop in prices could cause the overall tax to drop — at least temporarily — below Pennsylvania’s.)

Alaska and Missouri have the lowest gas taxes in the country, with per-gallon charges of 14.34 and 17.35 cents respectively, according to the American Petroleum Institute. Motorists in all states also pay 18.4 cents per gallon in federal fuel taxes.

“California will be number one in another category that it shouldn’t be number one in,” said state Sen. John Moorlach (R-Costa Mesa), who opposed SB 1 as it made its way through the Legislature. “These incremental increases drive people nuts. They are trying to meet their budgets, and we keep pounding away at it.”

Assembly Democrats, in a 49-17 vote, on Monday blocked an attempt by Republicans to postpone the July tax hike. “Democrats reaffirmed their support for a regressive gas tax increase that punishes every Californian who can’t afford a Tesla,” said Assemblyman Devon Mathis (R-Visalia). “So much for being the party of working people.”

SB 1 calls for additional annual increases to California’s gas tax based on inflation starting July 1, 2020.

Beall, the chairman of the Senate Transportation Committee, agreed with the assessment of the engineers’ group that current revenue is insufficient.

“Money went to local [agencies] from the gas tax, but they still need more,” Beall said, adding that the federal government needs to increase its funding for roads, while counties also can go to their voters for local sales tax increases for transportation projects.

Voters in Riverside County are among those who may be asked next year to raise taxes to fill a funding shortfall to fix the roads.

The Riverside County Transportation Commission has launched a study to determine how to make up a $12.6-billion gap between its transportation needs and expected funding over the next 20 years, according to Cheryl Donahue, a manager at the agency.

“As part of its review, the commission will determine whether asking county voters to consider a sales tax measure to fund transportation improvements is part of the best overall approach to reducing congestion and improving mobility,” Donahue said.

The San Diego Metropolitan Transit System also is considering whether to ask voters to increase the sales tax by up to one-half cent next year to pay for transit, highway and road improvements, spokesman Rob Schupp said. The San Diego Assn. of Governments released a poll in March that found strong voter support for such a tax, with 70% of those surveyed saying “improving roads to support transit services” is important.

Voters in San Mateo and San Benito counties approved sales tax increases in November for road projects.

Moorlach said Orange County, where he lives, has approved two local tax measures to fund its transportation needs in recent years, and he does not have a problem with other counties following suit.

The group Move L.A. has proposed a grander plan, suggesting that raising local sales taxes by a half-cent in Los Angeles, Orange, San Bernardino and Riverside counties could bring in about $1.5 billion per year for public projects.

Much of the money would go to South Coast Air Quality Management District efforts to increase non-polluting transportation, including electric cars and trucks. But some could be spent on infrastructure including bike and pedestrian lanes, which SB 1 finances.

The air district has sponsored a bill, SB 732, that would allow it to ask voters to raise the sales tax by up to 1% in the four counties. The legislation is expected to be taken up next year.

State law requires a two-thirds vote to approve a local tax increase for transportation, but a pair of other pending bills could make approval easier. A bill in the Legislature would put a measure on the November 2020 statewide ballot that would allow cities, counties and special districts to impose taxes if 55% of local voters approve. The measure would benefit projects involving affordable housing and infrastructure, including improvements to transit and streets and highways.

Another bill, AB 1413, would allow local transportation agencies like San Diego’s to seek voter approval of tax increases in any portion of the county, so if some areas want better roads they can vote on them. The measure would allow communities to pay for “improving roads, transit, highways, or other transportation infrastructure as they see fit,” said Assemblyman Todd Gloria (D-San Diego).

But the Howard Jarvis Taxpayers Assn. argued agencies “shouldn’t be able to pick and choose among their tax base to make it easier to increase regressive sales taxes.”

State lawmakers also are considering a bill that would charge a 10% tax on every barrel of oil pumped from the ground in California to bring in some $900 million annually. That, critics say, would mean motorists will pay more at the pump. Backers of the bill deny there would be a significant impact on drivers.

Money raised by the bill would go to the general fund but could help with transportation, said Sen. Bob Wieckowski (D-Fremont), the legislation’s author.

“While other states have brought in billions of dollars for their constituents through an oil severance tax, California has had to dip into its own pockets to cover extensive clean-up costs brought about by the oil industry’s irresponsible actions,” Wieckowski said. “Californians deserve better.”

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I went on a Nordic Road trip with the entire family with Harry Potter bridges and waterfront campsites

Collage of Norway featuring a fjord, two boys cooking salmon, a winding road, and a panoramic view of a mountain valley.

OVER a family dinner at home, I had a proposal for my teenage son. 

If I organised a road trip round north-west Norway, would he leave that ruddy mobile phone behind? 

Warren Christmas took his family on a trip to NorwayCredit: Getty Images
Overlooking the world famous fjordsCredit: Getty
Warren drove on the Atlantic Ocean Road, ticking off Storseisundet Bridge from his bucket listCredit: Getty

A few months later and I’m driving our family of five on the Atlantic Ocean Road, ticking off Storseisundet Bridge from my bucket list. 

The name might not be familiar but you’ve probably seen the bizarre, twisty structure in photos — or perhaps in James Bond film No Time To Die. 

It is the longest of eight bridges on the five-mile highway, which connects a chain of tiny islands. 

Search for it on Google Maps and it looks like the road simply runs over water. 

SPLASH OUT

Costa del Sol’s biggest waterpark hotel with eight pools is 23C in half term


TURKISH DELIGHT

The perfect place for families – with waterslides, fairground rides and fun

To soak it in, almost literally, we stopped to hike along a coastal path and then over a pedestrian bridge, with the fierce ocean lapping just a short distance below. 

“Ooh, this is a bit Top Gear!” said my wife as we then continued our drive, through a succession of dramatic bends. She wasn’t wrong. 

Norway’s north-west coast is a seriously fun place to drive. 

We’d borrowed an electric Polestar 4 car, which was very much at home in a country where electric vehicles now outnumber petrol motors. 

It’s much sportier and roomier than our own family car, and packed with 007-style features. 

At one point the display flashed “Front radar blocked”, prompting my ten-year-old to speculate that the weapons system had been disabled.

Less excitingly, it was just dirt on an external camera. Audible speeding alerts were welcome, given most roads had a modest 50mph limit. 

The drive from Alesund to mountaineering capital Andalsnes includes a long coastal stretch, some epic bridges, sweeping bends and extra-long tunnels.

But with late-afternoon darkness and driving rain, it was a relief to arrive at our accommodation — a snug and cosy wooden cabin at Andalsnes Hytteutleie. 

Deer stew 

Next morning, my wife and kids enthusiastically tackled indoor climbing walls at the Norwegian Mountaineering Centre. 

We’d borrowed an electric Polestar 4 car, which was very much at home in a country where electric vehicles now outnumber petrol motors

Just next door was the entrance for the Romsdalen Gondola, a cable car which took us up through the clouds to the Nesaksla Mountain, some 2322ft above sea level. 

Relaxing in the Eggen Restaurant at the top, we were treated to views of the valleys way, way below. 

We feasted on local produce including fish soup, deer stew, Angus meat burgers and delicious apple juice. 

From Andalsnes runs the Golden Train on the Rauma Line, described as “Europe’s most scenic train journey”.

The kids learn to cook fishCredit: Supplied
The family drove a Polestar 4 motorCredit: Supplied

Instead, we used our glossy white Polestar to follow the route. 

Parking at the base of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) we marvelled at the tallest vertical rock face in Europe, a mighty 3,600ft. 

Soon after, we passed by the Kylling Bridge — the majestic railway crossing featured in Harry Potter And The Half-Blood Prince. 

As we approached the village of Bjorli, we explored the banks of a fir tree-lined river, with a mountain backdrop and the ground beneath us covered by a sprinkling of snow. 

It was a scene so magical, I half expected an appearance from Father Christmas himself. Our onward journey to the city Molde, on the banks of a fjord, included a hassle-free ferry trip. 

When there, we based ourselves for a few days at the Kviltorp Camping site, staying in four-bedroom “sea house” overhanging the water’s edge. 

Over breakfast, fog peeled away to reveal spectacular mountains across the fjord. Just beautiful. 

At the Molde Salmon Centre we learned about the science behind large-scale fish-farming and then cooked a salmon dish in the large kitchen. For our MasterChef-loving kids, this was an unexpected highlight of our week.

Over breakfast, fog peeled away to reveal spectacular mountains across the fjord. Just beautiful

 

A trip to the Aker Stadium to watch local football side Molde FK — former home to Man City star Erling Haaland and once managed by Man United legend Ole Gunnar Solskjaer, didn’t disappoint either. 

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MURDER PROBE

‘Murdered’ businessman found dead inside his own home just weeks after wife

We rounded off our trip back in Alesund, where an exhausting walk up 416 steps to Viewpoint Aksla is almost mandatory — and great for photos. 

I never did convince my son to leave his phone at home — but at least it’s now filled with hundreds of pictures of beautiful Norway. 

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Kings can’t keep pace with Mark Scheifele and Jets in road loss

Mark Scheifele broke a tie with 8:13 left with his second goal of the game, Connor Hellebuyck made 30 saves and the Winnipeg Jets beat the Kings 3-2 on Saturday.

Scheifele picked Josh Morrissey’s pass out of the air and deflected it past goalie Darcy Kuemper to give Winnipeg the lead. Alex Iafallo had a power-play goal for the Jets in the first period to help the Jets rebound from a season-opening home loss to Dallas on Thursday night.

Adrian Kempe and Mikey Anderson scored for the Kings, with Kuemper stopping 24 shots. The Kings played their third game, following an opening home loss to Colorado and a shootout victory at Vegas.

Scheifele tied it 2-2 with 1:03 left in the second. In the tail end of killing a penalty, Morgan Barron stole the puck and fed Scheifele, whose backhander deflected off Anderson past Kuemper.

The Kings took a 2-1 lead midway through the second. Kempe finished off a pretty three-way passing play with Anze Kopitar and Andrei Kuzmenko.

Anderson tied it 1-1 just 50 seconds into the second period. His screened shot from the point got by Hellebuyck.

Up next: Kings: At Minnesota on Monday night.

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How to plan an extraordinary bikepacking trip across Catalina Island

As I fell asleep in a tent to the sounds of waves crashing on the beach and no cell phone service anywhere in the vicinity, I thought, this is the respite I needed. That is, until the wee hours of the morning when I heard something rumbling.

I slowly unzipped the tent door, poked my head out and saw it: a lone bison head-butting a picnic table, lifting one end into the air with alarming ease. I quickly snuck back into my hideaway and stayed quiet, listening to the gnarled sounds of this massive animal grazing just feet away from me.

A bison among some grass.

A North American Bison roams free and grazes near Little Harbor campground in Catalina

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The experience of bikepacking around Catalina Island was more than I had expected — both in its natural beauty and in its surprises. Within two days, 40-plus miles and some 5,000 feet of elevation, I was gobsmacked by the vistas, the morning light on the canyons and the solitude on the campground — aside from the abundant wildlife.

While not an “easy” trip (did I mention 5,000 feet in elevation?), the route from Catalina’s East End to Little Harbor and back to Avalon is one I’d recommend to both experienced adventurers and those newer to bikepacking, a blend of cycling and backpacking. It just requires some planning. Here’s what you should know, from getting your bike pass to planning out your stops.

Before the trip

The author's bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

The author’s bike of choice for this trip: a Surly Pugsley.

(James Murren)

Make your bicycle, camping and Catalina Express reservations

All cyclists on Catalina Island must have a Freewheeler Bike Pass, which can be obtained by purchasing a Catalina Island Conservancy membership. The cheapest $50 membership gets you one bike pass for the year, along with free admission to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanic Garden, discounts on Catalina Island campsites and other perks.

Once you have a pass, you must book a reservation to ride on Conservancy land. (You’ll get your physical bike pass when you arrive on Avalon and visit the Trailhead Visitor Center or Two Harbors Visitor Services.)

Camping reservations are also made through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. I reserved one night at Little Harbor Campground, but if I were to do it again, I would book two nights.

To get to and from Catalina, take the Catalina Express, which runs multiple trips a day from three locations in the Los Angeles area. When purchasing your ticket, you’ll pay a separate “additional article” fee to bring your bike onto the ferry.

What to pack

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

The essentials at the Little Harbor Campground.

(James Murren)

Your bike. I decided to bring my Surly Pugsley fat bike simply because I love my state of mind when I’m on it. I feel like I’m going with the flow, stopping and taking pictures and having a good time. Time is not of the essence. A gravel or mountain bike will work fine on Catalina. E-bikes with pedals are also permitted and hard-shelled helmets are required for all bikers.

Bikepacking bags, a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. Just note that you’re allowed two pieces of luggage on the Catalina Express.

Clothes. Bring whatever you like to ride in and sleep in at night. I’d suggest a light puffy jacket if there’s no rain in the forecast, and pants and thermal leggings to keep the chill off. If rain is expected, pack appropriately, but also know that the Conservancy does shut down the trails and roads if the conditions seem dangerous.

Food. Sustenance for an overnighter can be covered by using the Airport in the Sky Restaurant near the Catalina Airport as a feed station. You can also fill your water containers there. Have a nice-sized meal at the café and buy what you need to eat while on your bike. I had the café pack me a sandwich for camping that evening. You can also bring food supplies with you or stop by Vons on the island to get what you need. At Little Harbor Campground, there is potable water, along with Porta Potties and cold showers.

Note: Fuel canisters/containers are not permitted on the Catalina Express. When you arrive on Avalon, Chet’s Hardware offers small canisters. If you buy one and do not end up using it, they will allow you to return it if the seal is intact. I ended up not using my stove. Overnight oats and cold instant coffee got me going.

My bikepacking journey — and what you might expect

Day one

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

Catalina Island boasts 40 miles of trails and roads that are open to mountain biking.

(James Murren)

I woke in Avalon and pedaled my fat bike along Pebbly Beach Road to the turnoff for Wrigley Road. Climbing up Wrigley, I turned left on Renton Road, going around the gate and ascending up the remote double track. I had not seen another person for quite a while as I biked deeper into the hinterlands of the island, connecting to East End Light Road. Along the “backside” of the southern end of Catalina, it felt even more remote. East End afforded stunning views of the ocean and San Clemente Island to the south.

East End Road met up with Divide Road, as the trail map showed. The ocean sparkled in the distance, little crystals dancing on its surface. I scanned for whales but didn’t see any this time.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

A view of the boats in the Avalon harbor.

(James Murren)

The start of the route at East End Road.

The start of the route at East End Road.

(James Murren)

Divide Road merged with the Airport Road at the Wrigley Reservoir, which was empty of water. There was a slight challenge here, though, in that I came to a chain-link fence with an opening for people to step through. Luckily, a touring group in an open-air truck was going by and the driver pointed out that I could walk around the fence to the right, where there was a clear path to do so.

The Airport in the Sky was my lunch destination. My wife took a shuttle bus from the Conservancy to the airport and met up with me. After lunch, I set out from the airport on the mostly six-mile descent to Little Harbor campground. El Rancho Escondido Road had a bump or two along the way, breaking up the downhill riding with a little climbing. I turned right onto Little Harbor Road and made my way to my campsite. My tent set up and food safely stored in the provided metal boxes, I went over to the tiny beach and sat on a driftwood log, relaxing under the sun’s warm rays.

1

Catalina Island's Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel.

2

The island at dusk.

1. Catalina Island’s Airport in the Sky restaurant is a great place to refuel. (James Murren) 2. The island at dusk. (James Murren / For The Times)

In the middle of the night, as I mentioned above, a lone bison visited my campsite. Thankfully, nothing happened to me (other than not getting much sleep from that point on to sunrise) but Catalina Island officials warn visitors that there is no safe distance away from the large animal. “Never approach, touch or attempt to feed bison. If you feel threatened, identify an escape route,” the Conservancy states. “Place a large object between you and the bison (tree, rock, vehicle), and give the bison a path to avoid you.”

Day two

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

A stop at Cottonwood Beach. During the rainy season, you may see a small waterfall here.

(James Murren)

From the campground the next morning, I went around to Middle Ranch Road. More stunning views of the Pacific marked the first few miles as I climbed, then descended, and climbed some more. It was somewhere around 8:30 in the morning and it felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Eventually, Middle Ranch turned inland. The terrain was gradual in its ascent and once I reached Quail Valley and Middle Ranch, the recently graded road was fast hardpack that allowed for cranking away the miles. I was big-ringin’ it and cruising. Getting into a pedaling cadence was great.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

Looking out at the blue ocean and sky.

(James Murren)

Middle Ranch met up with Airport Road, where I turned right and pedaled to Stagecoach Road. Stagecoach descended to Avalon, the hard road quickly dropping with forever views of the big blue ocean.

My overnighter came to a close and I thought of moments during both days when I was by stunned by the beauty that surrounded me — I was even able to see snowcapped San Gorgonio back on the mainland. I thought of friends that I wanted to bring along next time. Yes, no doubt, there will be a next time.

Scenes from James Murren's story on "How to plan a bikepacking trip across Catalina"

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Potential hurdles litter road as Israel and Hamas head to Gaza peace talks | Israel-Palestine conflict News

Delegations from Hamas, Israel and the United States are due to convene in Egypt for talks on US President Donald Trump’s proposal to end the war in Gaza.

Indirect negotiations between Israel and Hamas over the 20-point plan are due to begin in Egypt’s Red Sea resort of Sharm el-Sheikh on Monday.

The talks, which come on the eve of the second anniversary of the Hamas attacks on Israel that led to the war, have raised hopes that the devastating conflict, which has killed tens of thousands in Gaza, could soon end. But at the same time, there are plenty of potential obstacles to sealing a deal.

Trump has insisted that both sides are on board with his peace framework and has called for the negotiations to “move fast” in reaching an agreement.

Despite the failure of several initiatives to try to end the conflict, including two brief ceasefires that collapsed, the bombardment of Gaza, which has now killed at least 67,160 people, wounded 169,679, and pushed the enclave’s two million or so people towards starvation, Trump said “the first phase should be completed this week”.

In a post on his social media platform Truth Social, Trump said there had been “very positive discussions with Hamas” and other governments over the weekend “to release the Hostages, end the War in Gaza but, more importantly, finally have long sought peace in the Middle East”.

“These talks have been very successful, and proceeding rapidly,” he said. “I am asking everyone to move fast … time is of the essence, or massive bloodshed will follow.”

Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu also appeared to buoy expectations when he said the release of the 48 Israeli captives held by Hamas – 20 of whom are believed to be alive – could be announced this week.

Under the plan, Hamas would release the captives in exchange for the release of Palestinian prisoners held in Israeli jails.

Hamas has also agreed to give up power in Gaza, while Israel has agreed to withdraw its forces from the enclave.

Lacking details

However, numerous issues remain under the proposal, which lacks details.

There is no timescale given for the disarmament of Hamas, while a vague reference to the establishment of a Palestinian state has put many on both sides of the deal on edge.

Meanwhile, with the talks set to commence, Israeli forces have continued their assault in Gaza.

Seven people were killed on Monday morning, including three who were seeking humanitarian aid, according to Al Jazeera sources.

Nour Odeh, reporting for Al Jazeera from the Jordanian capital, Amman, said that, for all Trump’s comments talking up the prospects of the plan, significant obstacles remained.

“There are a lot of details that could potentially derail” the negotiations, she said.

Potential sticking points include Israel’s insistence that it wants all captives released at the same time within 72 hours.

It also wants to retain freedom to pursue Hamas, despite the withdrawal agreement, and insists that its withdrawal lines and timelines have already been set.

“All of these things need to undergo delicate talks,” she said.

Perhaps reflecting such doubts, the Israeli media reported on Monday that the negotiation process would now begin with Hamas representatives speaking with mediators, with Israeli and US representatives not participating until Wednesday.

Trump has demanded that Israel stop bombing Gaza so that the talks can play out, but strikes have continued across the territory.

Israeli government spokesperson Shosh Bedrosian told reporters on Sunday that the military would continue to act for “defensive purposes” and that there was no ceasefire in place.

Speaking on ABC’s This Week, US Secretary of State Marco Rubio described two phases that would occur once Hamas accepted Trump’s framework.

First, the Israeli captives would be released by Hamas, and then Israel would pull back in Gaza to the “yellow line”, where its military was positioned in August.

Rubio said Hamas should release captives as soon as they were ready, and that Israel’s bombardment needed to end so they could be released.

Hamas’s future a sticking point

The question of Hamas’s future also looms as a major potential obstacle.

Trump’s plan calls for Gaza’s demilitarisation and rules out any future governing role for Hamas, though it allows its members to remain if they renounce violence and disarm.

Hamas has responded positively to the plan, saying it was ready to negotiate the captives’ release, and form part of a “Palestinian national framework” that would shape Gaza’s future.

However, the prospect of Hamas remaining in any form has enraged Netanyahu’s far-right coalition allies. They have threatened to topple the government over the issue.

“Alongside the important goal in and of itself of releasing the hostages, the central goal of the war, which stems from the October 7 massacre carried out by Hamas monsters, is that the terrorist organisation Hamas cannot be allowed to remain in existence,” National Security Minister Itamar Ben-Gvir said in a social media post.

He said he and his party, Otzma Yehudit, had told Netanyahu that they would quit the government if Hamas continued to exist after the captives’ release.

“We will not be part of a national defeat that will bring eternal shame to the world, and that will become a ticking time bomb for the next massacre,” he said.

However, Yair Lapid, leader of the opposition, on Sunday offered to lend Netanyahu’s government support to prevent a collapse at the hands of his “extremist and irresponsible partners” while the plan is negotiated.

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Liverpool news: Arne Slot hits first bumps in the road as Reds boss

“I don’t see where Wirtz gets into the team,” ex-England captain Wayne Rooney said on The Wayne Rooney Show. “I think it was a lot of money. I think Wirtz actually damages the balance of Liverpool and how they play.

“He’s a top player and I’m sure he will get better – but he’s had a slow start and I think there’s no denying that.”

Wirtz’s current struggles are not down to a shortage of endeavour. He attempted more dribbles or shots on goal than anyone else for Liverpool in Istanbul. He will hope his hard work is rewarded soon.

Liverpool statistics also back up the theory they are now easier to get at, needing late goals against Bournemouth, Newcastle , Arsenal, Burnley, Atletico Madrid in the Champions League and Southampton in the Carabao Cup. They also conceded two-goal leads against Bournemouth, Newcastle and Atletico.

And, again, you can compare the start of this season to the beginning of last – they have had only two clean sheets in 10 games this season having kept six in their first 10 last season.

“Right now they’re not there yet,” said ex-Liverpool forward Daniel Sturridge on Amazon Prime. “When you look at the way they’re playing right now they’re not the same team as last year. You can see the chemistry is not right at this present moment in this time – but they have plenty of time to get it right. It’s not panic stations.”

Slot, perfectly understandably, delivered measured perspective as he said: “We are not so far off the level shown last season. This is sometimes what the schedule can bring, Galatasaray is not a simple game. We now play Chelsea away, a difficult game.

“The margins are small and they were last season. For the second time in a row we are on the wrong side.

“I saw a lot of things in the first half, but the second half was much less. I don’t think in the second half there was a lot of playing time, their striker was on the floor four or five times. It was difficult to get momentum in the game.”

For all that, however, the sense of calm control and composure that was the hallmark of Liverpool’s title win has been lost – and was missing again the fierce surroundings of Istanbul.

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Woman in her 20s pushed to ground and ‘sexually assaulted’ while walking down road in city port as man, 27, arrested

A YOUNG woman was pushed to the ground and “sexually assaulted” while walking down a road as a man, 27, has been arrested.

Detectives have arrested a man following the incident that took place in the early hours of Sunday morning in Liverpool.

A woman in her 20s reported that a man on a bike had been following her while she was walking down Crosby Road South at around 5.45am.

The suspect then proceeded to cover her mouth with his hand and push her to the floor.

After the victim desperately screamed for help, the man fled the scene.

Merseyside Police have arrested a 27-year-old man from Litherland on suspicion of sexual assault.

He currently remains in custody for questioning. 

Detective Chief Inspector Nick Suffield said that the incident is deeply concerning and left the victim “extremely shaken.”

In a statement he said: “This is a deeply concerning incident and our investigation continues.

“The victim was understandably left extremely shaken and we will support her through this process.

“A man has been arrested, but I would still urge anyone who lives in the area to check your own, CCTV, dashcam and any doorbell devices should there be anything which helps this work.

“Any information could be vital, so let us make the assessment.”

Extensive witness and CCTV enquiries are continuing.

Anyone with information on the incident should contact the Merseyside Police social media desk @MerPolCC on X and Facebook quoting reference 25000780190

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Angels fall to Rockies, go 1-9 on their final road trip of season

Kyle Freeland pitched six solid innings, Blaine Crim homered and drove in two runs, and the Colorado Rockies beat the Angels 3-1 on Sunday in their final home game of a miserable season.

Victor Vodnik got three outs for his 10th save as the Rockies improved to 43-113 with six games remaining, ensuring they won’t tie the 1962 New York Mets for the most losses in one season by a National League team since 1900. Those expansion Mets finished 40-120-1.

Mike Trout doubled leading off the game after hitting his 400th career home run Saturday night. He scored the only run for the Angels (70-86), who went 1-9 on their last road trip of the year.

Trout scored on Jo Adell’s single in the first but Freeland (5-16) was in control after that. He retired 13 of 14 batters before Taylor Ward’s leadoff single in the sixth. The left-hander issued his only walk one out later but ended his day by getting Logan O’Hoppe to ground into an inning-ending double play.

Angels starter Caden Dana (0-3) didn’t allow a hit through three innings, but three walks in the second allowed the Rockies to tie it on Kyle Karros’ sacrifice fly.

Crim’s leadoff homer in the fourth gave Colorado the lead, and Freeland and the bullpen made it stand up.

Crim added an RBI groundout in the eighth.

Key moment: The Angels had runners on first and third with one out in the first, but Freeland struck out O’Hoppe and Christian Moore to keep the damage at one run. Freeland had seven strikeouts.

Key stats: Colorado finished 25-56 at Coors Field, the most home losses in franchise history. The previous high was 46 in 2012.

Up next: The Angels host Kansas City on Tuesday to begin their final homestand. They had not announced a scheduled starter yet.

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USC earned a Big Ten road win, but here are a few things to fix

It was a long, wet afternoon in West Lafayette, but USC emerged unscathed from Big Ten country with its first conference road win in hand and a pick-six for its massive, 360-pound nose tackle. What more could you really ask for from a trip to Purdue?

After marching up and down the field for two weeks and beating up on its first two opponents by an average margin of 50 points, USC was finally tested by a real, genuine football team on Saturday. And while it wasn’t perfect, it was certainly important, considering what awaits the Trojans during the next six weeks.

Welcome back to the Times of Troy newsletter, where we do still have some reasons for concern as the conference competition ratchets up. The secondary, aside from two Bishop Fitzgerald picks, gave Purdue’s receivers too much space and gifted them too many busted coverages. The run game didn’t always find room and the passing attack wasn’t always consistent.

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But just closing out a close game on the road in the fourth quarter was a critical step for USC this season. The manner in which it shut the door on Purdue was especially encouraging, given how similar circumstances were handled a season ago.

USC had just two fourth-quarter drives, which it turned into just three total points. On paper, without context, they might look entirely unremarkable. The Trojans averaged just 5.95 yards per play through that stretch, nearly a yard lower than they managed during the full game.

But those two drives, from a situational perspective, were precisely what USC needed in that moment.

And that’s a credit to USC coach Lincoln Riley, whose late-game management left a lot to be desired last season. On Saturday, he showed a much better grasp of how to close out a Big Ten game away from home.

Through three quarters, USC’s run game was mostly stymied, with just 91 yards in 25 carries. Still, Riley kept with it. Knowing he needed to keep the clock running, the Trojans’ coach kept his team grounded for the majority of the fourth quarter. Out of 19 plays in that final quarter, USC ran the ball 15 times.

USC racked up 87 rushing yards during those two drives — almost double its previous output — but more important, it chewed away almost 11 minutes of clock. Eventually, Purdue just ran out of time to mount a comeback.

“We knew how much time we had to chew,” senior tight end Lake McRee said. “We did what we needed to do to get the job done.”

It hadn’t always seemed so simple to USC and its coach. Last season, quarterback Miller Moss was asked to throw the ball at least 50 times in three of USC’s four road losses, all of which the Trojans led in the fourth quarter.

With that in mind, USC set out to make late-game management more of a focal point. So at practice, Riley would run the team through its “Trojan Period,” in which they’d run a sequence of plays focused on late-game situational awareness.

Most of the time, McRee said, that just meant grinding away with the run.

We saw the benefit of that work in West Lafayette. It wasn’t perfect — for instance, USC went 0 for 3 on third down — but Saturday felt, to me at least, like a sign that the Trojans and their coach may have learned the right lessons from last season and perhaps put their fourth-quarter woes in the rearview mirror.

USC defensive tackle Floyd Boucard sacks Purdue quarterback Ryan Browne in West Lafayette, Ind., on Saturday.

USC defensive tackle Floyd Boucard sacks Purdue quarterback Ryan Browne in West Lafayette, Ind., on Saturday.

(Michael Conroy / Associated Press)

— USC’s pass rush progress feels legit. After its third consecutive game with four or more sacks, I think we can safely say that USC is much-improved in this area. USC not only had five sacks Saturday, but pressured Purdue quarterback Ryan Browne 31 times on 39 dropbacks, according to PFF. That’s an absurd mark. The Trojans actually lead the nation in sacks with 14 through three weeks, much of which they were able to collect without blitzing. Before this season, USC had just two games total with four or more sacks during the Riley era, both in 2023. That rate probably isn’t sustainable. But D’Anton Lynn finally has a collection of talent to rush the passer, and the results look a lot more like UCLA in 2023, when Lynn’s Bruins defense finished in the top-10 in sacks nationally, than USC in 2024.

— Penalties are becoming a real problem. Riley made clear that USC needed to cut down on discipline penalties after it drew eight penalties a week ago. But the Trojans ended up drawing their most penalties of the season Saturday (nine) and the most penalty yards of Riley’s tenure (103). They had two sideline interference calls, a roughing the passer call and a personal foul on a punt. “We know we’ve gotta do better,” Riley said.

— USC’s corner rotation narrowed, as promised. And Marcelles Williams was the main beneficiary. It wasn’t clear who would get the start opposite of DeCarlos Nicholson, and after an iffy showing from the cornerback room, there’s no guarantee that Williams will remain in the role. But Williams beat Braylon Conley, DJ Harvey and Chasen Johnson for the start Saturday, and he finished tied for second on the team in tackles (five). Williams played 45 snaps, while Harvey played 22, Johnson played 21 and Conley played 10. The problem is none of them were really up to par in coverage.

— It’s not often that USC finds itself in a weather delay. The last time was in 2012, when USC beat Syracuse at the Meadowlands in New Jersey. But before that, USC hadn’t had a football game affected by weather since 1990, when officials called the game with 2:36 left, handing a win to USC over Ohio State. The Buckeyes were … umm … not happy about it at the time.

In case you missed it

USC exorcises its Big Ten road demons by beating Purdue to remain unbeaten

USC’s Three Things to Watch Against Purdue

USC hopes more leg room pays off: 3 key questions Trojans must answer vs. Purdue

‘I know what I can be.’ How USC tailback Waymond Jordan went from anonymous to a star

What I’m watching this week

Mark Ruffalo and Alison Oliver hold up guns as they search a street on the HBO show "Task."

Mark Ruffalo and Alison Oliver hold up guns as they search a street on the HBO show “Task.”

(Peter Kramer / HBO)

I was a huge fan of “Mare of Easttown” when it debuted in 2021, so I was thrilled to hear the creator, Brad Inglesby, was returning to HBO with a new crime drama. Fortunately, I can report that “Task” appears to be everything you’d want it to be if you’re looking for a fitting follow-up to one of the best shows of the past five years.

The show follows the intertwining stories of an alcoholic FBI agent played by Mark Ruffalo and a masked robber played by Tom Pelphrey. The aesthetic is dark and dour. And yet, the show is a beautiful piece of filmmaking, and I’m enjoying every minute of it so far.

Until next time …

That concludes today’s newsletter. If you have any feedback, ideas for improvement or things you’d like to see, email me at [email protected], and follow me on X at @Ryan_Kartje. To get this newsletter in your inbox, click here.

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China Pushes Belt and Road, Leads Global South Think Tank Alliance at UN Day 2025

China, through its Belt and Road Initiative, is playing a role in promoting “global prosperity,” as this is the shared goal of the Global South. During the United Nations’ celebration of Global South Day on September 12, 2025, China calls on countries of the Global South to actively participate in and lead the reform of the global economic governance system, which will further unite developing countries and make them companions on the path to development and recovery. Under the leadership of President Xi Jinping, China also supports civilizational dialogue and harmony with diversity among various developing countries of the Global South under the umbrella of China’s Belt and Road Initiative, as this represents the true nature of the world pursued by the Global South. China proposed “enhancing communication and dialogue and supporting each other in taking a modernization path appropriate to national conditions.” China also announced that it would take the lead in establishing a “Think Tank Cooperation Alliance for the Global South,” which will inject new impetus into mutual learning among the world’s civilizations.

  Chinese President Xi Jinping affirmed, while delivering a speech at the “BRICS Plus Leaders’ Dialogue” on October 24, 2024, that “China will take the lead in establishing a (collaborative alliance of think tanks in the Global South). In this context, the Chinese capital, Beijing, hosted the “Conference of Think Tanks of the Global South” on October 21, 2024. Representatives from more than 70 countries from the Global South participated in the conference, which was held under the theme of “Peace, Development, and Security.”

  China positions the Belt and Road Initiative as a key platform for South-South cooperation. From an academic standpoint, I can classify the BRI as South-South cooperation, triangular cooperation, and a hybrid paradigm for many reasons. From my academic perspective, as an internationally renowned Egyptian expert on Chinese politics and the policies of the ruling Communist Party of China, I believe that China’s Belt and Road Initiative serves as a model for cooperation between China and developing countries in the Global South, as well as for trilateral cooperation. The Chinese Belt and Road Initiative, under the slogan of “Working together for modernization and building a community with a shared future,” has led to increased political mutual trust between China, developing countries in the Global South, and all countries that have joined the Chinese Belt and Road Initiative. This has been achieved through coordinating positions and policies to reach consensus on regional issues and global challenges, thus strengthening the power of countries in the Global South and raising the voice of developing countries, led by China.

   Here, Chinese President Xi Jinping put forward new ideas and proposals for building a “high-level community with a shared future between China and developing countries of the Global South,” with China announcing new measures and procedures for practical cooperation with countries of the South, addressing new topics, such as “state governance, industrialization and agricultural modernization, peace and security, as well as high-quality cooperation within the framework of the Belt and Road Initiative,” and others, to the mutual benefit of all, in accordance with Chinese President Xi Jinping’s well-known principle of “win-win and mutual benefits for all.”

 China’s Belt and Road Initiative represents a new Chinese journey toward modernization, the advancement of a community with a shared future between China and the global South, and a new chapter in the friendship between the Chinese people and the people of developing countries, generating strong momentum for global modernization.

  From my academic perspective, China’s Belt and Road Initiative is an attempt by China to propose an alternative global economic system in cooperation with developing countries of the Global South, in opposition to US hegemonic policies. China opposes the current global economic order dominated by the United States and its Western allies, which is based on protectionism, unilateralism, and hegemony. Therefore, Beijing is working to present an alternative vision for a global economic system based on cooperation, a point President “Xi” sought to emphasize at the forum, describing his initiative as a comprehensive alternative to the Washington-led global order.

  Unsurprisingly, in the context of this vision, Chinese President Xi Jinping reiterated his criticism of what he called “unilateral sanctions, geopolitical competition, and bloc policies.” This was an implicit reference to recent US policies toward Beijing, which, in Washington’s view, are a means of mitigating risks, while Beijing views them as aimed at hindering its development and rise.This vision was also expressed in the “white paper,” in which Beijing described the Belt and Road Initiative as an alternative to the current global economic model, which is “dominated by a few countries.”

  Based on the above analysis, we understand the reasons behind China’s support for developing countries in the Global South through its Belt and Road Initiative and its efforts to establish a think tank for an alliance of developing countries in the Global South. For years, China has made no secret of its dissatisfaction with the current US-dominated global order, which it describes as a system built on Western hegemony and treating other countries with duplicity and condescension. It asserts that this system has failed to resolve international crises, emphasizing the need for a new, more just, and effective system. China argues that the current global order is unfair and excludes the interests of developing countries, citing economic disparities, political interventions, and the imposition of Western standards on the majority of the world’s countries.

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Jon Richardson’s future on Waterloo Road confirmed after Jason Manford quit after just one series

JON Richardson’s future on Waterloo Road has been confirmed after Jason Manford quit the show after just one series.

The comedy star announced he was joining the show after an April Fools prank claiming he was retiring from comedy to become a teacher.

Jon Richardson in a dark suit.

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Jon Richardson’s future on Waterloo Road has been revealedCredit: BBC
Jon Richardson and Lucy Beaumont at the BAFTA Television Awards.

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The comedian split from wife Lucy Beaumont last yearCredit: Getty

He soon announced that was he was actually joining the cast of the school-set drama.

And now The Sun can exclusively reveal that he won’t be a one-series wonder like Jason who bowed out after his first year.

A source said: “There were worries by some that after Jason’s one series stint that Jon would follow suit but that’s not the case.

“He’ll be sticking around for the foreseeable and is really enjoying acting now.”

Read more on Waterloo Road

The star will play the school’s new media studies teacher, Darius Donovan. 

The BBC blurb teases: “With tons of charm, this new teacher knows how to put on a good show, and viewers can expect his arrival to stir things up at Waterloo Road.”

Last year Jon and ex-wife Lucy Beaumont announced their split.

Jon and Lucy tied the knot in 2015 after two years of dating.

The two share one daughter Elsie Louise, eight.

In April last year they announced that they had gone their separate ways.

Moment Lucy Beaumount joked about divorce from Jon Richardson a year before couple revealed split

A statement shared by PA news agency said: “After 9 years of marriage, we would like to announce that we have separated.

“We have jointly and amicably made the difficult decision to divorce and go our separate ways.

“As our only priority is managing this difficult transition for our daughter, we would ask that our privacy is respected at this sensitive time to protect her well-being.

“We will be making no further comment.”

Waterloo Road will return to BBC One and iPlayer on Tuesday September 23.

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Antiques Road Trip descends into bitter clash as expert abandons co-star

Antiques Road Trip descended into bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row that saw them split up at the auction house

Paul Laidlaw
Antiques Road Trip descended into bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row(Image: BBC)

Antiques Road Trip descended into a bitter clash on Sunday afternoon’s episode as an expert abandoned co-star during a heated row. The BBC afternoon favourite returned over the weekend with a previous instalment when Paul Laidlaw joined fellow expert Margie Cooper on the valuation programme, and the pair ventured from Lincolnshire as they set off on their way to the auction house in Harrogate.

With Paul behind the wheel as Margie set out on an expedition that would see her try to contact spirits from beyond, she warned him ‘not to start with all this war stuff’ as they made their way to the auction house.

Paul began: “I don’t know much about it, airfields! Lincs, East Coast. I’ve got to bring the war up.” Margie then joked: “Oh, don’t, you’re not going to start with all this war stuff!”

READ MORE: Antiques Roadshow painting gets ‘record-breaking’ value before sad twistREAD MORE: Antiques Road Trip expert issues warning after ‘falling over’ during chaotic deal

Margie Cooper
Once inside, Margie deliberately crept up on her co-star and he fumed: ‘Whoa, whoa, whoa! Are you familiar with the concept of trespassing?’(Image: BBC)

Paul shot back: “My tactic is… but you won’t. I’m sure this won’t upset you. I will just be hovering behind, ready to snatch. Is that the best you can do?”

Margie hit back: “Don’t you dare! Don’t you dare!” Paul, who was pursuing the purchase of military memorabilia and did go on to discover some rather interesting artefacts, joked to his co-star: “We may end up in the same shop this morning. I’m talking about militaria.”

Not quite satisfied with that stance, Margie shot back: “Sniffing around! Oh no! Please! You’re not still buying that old rubbish, are you?” and she suggested once they had arrived: “Shall we divide and conquer? I’ll just abandon you by the roadside!”

Once inside, Margie deliberately crept up on her co-star and he fumed: “Whoa, whoa, whoa! Are you familiar with the concept of trespassing? I thought you were,” but she fired back: “I am allowed to go where I want to! I was told!”

Paul, furious at this stage, ranted: “is this? An interrogation? You come in here and interrogate me!” Despite this, the pair still maintained a good rapport on screen for the rest of the episode and were on civil terms by the time the auction came around.

Antiques Roadshow
The pair managed to keep things civil after their initial spat (Image: BBC)

It comes just days after dealer Paul was gobsmacked after he stumbled upon a rare vintage camera in an antique shop. The camera later fetched a whopping £20,000 at auction.

Paul had snapped up the camera for a mere £60 and was left stunned alongside competitor Kate Bliss at the Bury St. Edmunds auction in Suffolk when the hammer fell at such an astronomical price, especially after watching the bidding increments soar.

The specialist found the camera while hunting for curiosities and collectables in Margate, Kent. The shop owner explained: “Three floors, the upstairs is mainly furniture, but there’s stuff everywhere. And on this floor, there are four rooms through, and in the middle, there’s a staircase which goes down to a room full of chairs and another room full below!”

Faced with the daunting task ahead, Paul joked: “Don’t send the cavalry, okay?” After spending a considerable amount of time rummaging through the treasures, Paul returned to the counter and proposed: “In your cabinet over there, optical instrument… £75 on that, I bid you £50.

“Give me £60 and I’ll shake your hand, but I’m not doing any better than that, I’m afraid,” the proprietor responded. “Shake my hand!” Paul retorted, and the owner added, “Good man, deal done.”

He then turned to the camera and revealed: “What do you get for your money when you open it up? That looks like a peepside and it is!”.

“I think this is a very early camera. If I’m right, that could be quite exciting. The photographic market is very much in the ascent, it’s a hot market, I think that’s a good thing.”

Antiques Road Trip is available to stream on BBC iPlayer.

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Road trips are getting cleaner and quieter as RVs go electric

Bob Anderson — physician, pilot, executive — is nothing if not a perfectionist.

He’s owned his fair share of recreational vehicles and disliked each of them uniquely. There was the Earth Roamer (anemic axles, in his opinion), the $350,000 Newmar land yacht (complex emissions technology) and a 25-foot Airstream trailer (lots of propane). Yet Anderson, 81, keeps buying camping rigs. And he’s hoping the next one will be his last.

This fall, he’ll take delivery of a Lightship AE.1 Cosmos, an RV as similar to an Airstream as a Tesla Roadster is to a Pontiac Firebird.

What separates the Lightship from the rest of Anderson’s letdowns is its propulsion system and design: The rig has two electric motors, so it can drive itself while hitched to the vehicle towing it, and the entire top half tucks down for better aerodynamics while underway. With these two hacks, the vehicle towing the Lightship will feel virtually no weight most of the time. On the interstate, Anderson’s hybrid pickup truck will theoretically get its standard 27 miles per gallon, rather than the 12.5 miles it manages with the Airstream behind it.

“It’s going to change everything in the RV world,” Anderson says.

This year may well be an inflection point for the RV industry, when serious alternatives are emerging to the gas-guzzling rigs chugging between national parks.

In addition to the Lightship, the Pebble Flow — another towable camper with an electric drivetrain — will hit the road. Meanwhile, a host of electric vans will finally be stamped out in high volumes, most notably Volkswagen’s ID. Buzz , the latest iteration of the brand’s storied bus. Even incumbent Thor Inc., which is to RVs what Apple is to smartphones, is putting the final touches on its first hybrid rig.

“It’s certainly a huge milestone,” says McKay Featherstone, head of global innovation at Thor Inc. “People can finally go and buy these things and experience this technology.”

Last year, Americans bought 637,000 RVs, many of which burned a gallon of gas every six to 15 miles traveled. These rigs will stay on the road for about 200,000 miles, belching copious amounts of carbon dioxide.

Electric RVs promise to make the summer road trip vastly cleaner, more convenient and quiet.

Among other things, electric models will help the RV industry shake off what the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association refers to as a “Covid hangover.” The group is forecasting a slight increase in total US sales this year, in part because of the growing number of electric options.

“The vibes, if you will, are good,” says spokeswoman Monika Geraci. “And there does seem to be an appetite there.”

In a Venn diagram of folks who love camping and folks who are climate-concerned, there’s quite a bit of overlap. That may partially explain why, of the roughly 58 million American households that go camping every year, only 12 million of them own an RV.

Yet it’s not like RV drivers don’t care about the climate. “Obviously, these people love the outdoors,” explains Featherstone at Thor, “and that does translate into people who want a lighter footprint.”

In fact, some of the same people who long avoided camping rigs and their sizable clouds of emissions are now at the helm of RV startups. These folks could never find a camper green enough for their liking, so they set out to make one.

Lightship was launched by two Tesla alumni after a disappointing RV journey. Co-founder Toby Kraus says the company is getting plenty of interest from RV newbies who strive to keep a low carbon footprint, but the company has been surprised at the number of orders from everyday drivers and who don’t care about the climate benefits.

Anderson is one of the latter: He pays little mind to his personal carbon footprint. What thrills him is the idea of spending less money on gas and having an RV that doesn’t have to churn a combustion engine to run the air conditioning and refrigerator.

In that regard, Lightspeed is borrowing a page from the Tesla playbook.

“The reason Tesla was successful is not because it was sustainable,” Kraus explains. “It’s because the product was awesome. It was clean tech by Trojan Horse.”

With the glow of ambient light tucked behind ceiling fabric, the interior of the Lightship Ae.1 feels like the first-class cabin of a commercial jet. An induction cooktop is built into the counter, a heat pump quietly cycles air and everything on the rig is controlled by an app. Lightship plans to eventually sell smaller, more affordable models, but its launch vehicle costs a heady $250,000.

The Pebble Flow parks a little further down market with its founders edition priced at $175,000. Co-founder Bingrui Yang spent much of his career working at Apple on the iPhone and, aesthetically, the rig travels the same lane. With a bed that folds up against the wall and Starlink internet service, the interior is geared for Zoom calls as much as napping in nature, reflecting the rise of remote work.

“This is the right time for this product,” Yang says.

The market is also shifting in ways that may further favor electric models. Since 2021, the average age of US RV customers has dropped from 53 to 49, while the share of the market making more than $100,000 a year climbed from 29% to 33%.

“It’s not your grandma and grandpa anymore,” Geraci says. “It’s a different consumer, and they’re looking for more technology.”

While expensive, the new electric towables change the standard RV economics; because they can propel themselves much of the time, they can be towed with less horsepower and pair nicely with electric vehicles, machines for which towing has been Kryptonite due to range issues.

There are also alternatives on the horizon to the hulking, three-bedroom motor coach. These vehicles make up one out of every 10 RVs sold, yet they get some of the worst gas mileage of any non-commercial vehicle, hoovering up a gallon of gas every six or seven miles.

Thor is putting the finishing touches on a hybrid vehicle — dubbed simply “Test Vehicle” — that doesn’t look markedly different from its gas-burning products. But refinements in design make it about 20% more aerodynamic. The 210 kilowatt-hours of battery power under the hood along with a gas generator for charging give it somewhere around 500 miles of range.

On long trips, it will burn roughly half as much fuel as a similar-sized internal combustion rig and offer even better range on short jaunts. Thor will start taking orders in the fall and producing the vehicles by year-end.

Still, there’s a huge chunk of the camper market for whom even a towable is too much. Last year, Americans bought 8,300 camper vans as well as an untold number converted minivans and commercial vans to handle s’mores and sleeping duty.

These folks also have a bevy of new choices. In the first half of the year, Americans bought 2,500 ID.Buzzes. Many of those rigs will be pressed into minimalist camping service, and aftermarket shops are helping kit them out.

That includes Peace Vans in Seattle, which counts both Macklemore and Pearl Jam drummer Matt Cameron as clients. For the Buzz, the company built three different camping configurations. Owner Harley Stitner expects to complete about 1,000 retrofits in the next few years.

Sam Shapiro launched Grounded RVs after six months on the road in 2020 en route to a job at SpaceX. “Before that, I don’t think I’d ever even been in an RV,” he says. “There’s this irony of having this experience to embrace nature, yet you’re sitting there at a campground running a combustion engine, creating exhaust, making noise.”

At its factory in Detroit, Grounded is essentially taking the chassis of an electric General Motors BrightDrop van, topping it with the shell of a Class B motorhome and adding its own solar array and battery management software. The rigs can travel about 300 miles on a charge. As with other electric campers, buyers will pay a premium: $195,000, nearly double what a gas-burning rig of the same size runs.

Last year, Grounded shipped 15 of its machines; this year, it’s aiming for 50. Roughly half of Grounded customers are RV rookies.

“They’ve been waiting for something like this to come along,” Shapiro says. “So many of our customers have said they never want to own a gas-powered vehicle again.”

Stock writes for Bloomberg.

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Prep talk: All-American Kami Miner visits alma mater Redondo Union

Kami Miner, an All-American volleyball player at Redondo Union and Stanford, dropped by her alma mater’s match last week before heading to Italy to play pro volleyball.

Coach Tommy Chaffins knew what to do.

“Hey, you want to come into the team room?” he asked.

“‘I’d love to,” Miner said.

Redondo Union players got a good pep talk before a win over Long Beach Poly.

“She loves Redondo,” Chaffins said.

Redondo Union is 13-1 heading into a competitive home match on Tuesday against Marymount, followed by a showdown against Mater Dei on the road.

Abby Zimmerman, a four-year starter and captain headed to Cal, has been leading the Sea Hawks.

This is a daily look at the positive happenings in high school sports. To submit any news, please email [email protected].

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On the Rize: a road trip to Turkey’s fairytale north-east | Turkey holidays

A rainy part of the world where locals’ tea-drinking habits verge on obsessive. That may sound familiar, but a shared love of tea is where similarities between Turkey’s Rize province and the UK start and end. In fact, this corner of the country feels more like a mythical land, a fairytale mix of mist-shrouded mountains and dramatically plunging valleys cloaked in impenetrably deep, dark forests.

Despite the dramatic landscapes, international tourism has never really taken off here. Running between the eastern edge of the Black Sea and the rugged Pontic Alps, just shy of the Georgian border, it’s been a tricky spot to reach, historically (a bus journey of about 19 hours from Istanbul – though an airport opened in 2022, which cuts this to two hours).

I became intrigued by Rize when researching a book on the world’s best road trips. I spent weeks cruising the globe’s highways, country lanes and mountain passes via Google Street View. When I reached Turkey, I noticed a long green belt running along its northern coastline and discovered a land of dense tea plantations, cliff-hugging roads, roaring rivers and wooden villages.

Curious to find out more, I convinced a friend to come on a road trip to the Fırtına valley, home to some of the region’s most spectacular scenery (as well as being its most accessible area – large swathes are serious wilderness and should only be visited with a guide).

Fog rolls over the Kaçkar mountains, which rise above the Black Sea coast. Photograph: Ali Eobanoglu/Alamy

Rize is the name of both the province and its capital city, an unassuming coastal hub. We decide to prioritise our time in deep nature, so head straight for the mountains in our hire car rather than lingering in town. As we head east towards the Fırtına valley, our route is lined by the shimmering turquoise waters of the Black Sea on one side and rolling tea plantations on the other, where the steep hillsides are dotted with workers gathering leaves into wicker baskets strapped to their backs. Rize has been Turkey’s leading tea-producing region since the 1940s. It is the country’s wettest region, but rain tends to dissipate quickly during the summer months, leaving thin wisps of mist trailing across the hilltops.

After about 20 minutes, we reach the mouth of the Fırtına River. The name translates as “stormy” and its waters crash along the rocky riverbed. The further along it we drive, the more ferocious it becomes; the valley sides loom over us, their steep slopes blanketed in dense forests (apparently home to a growing population of brown bears).

After half an hour, we reach Çamlıhemşin. The town skirts the riverbanks precipitously, cradled by towering, mossy cliffs. We wander along its main street as the sun sets, passing a few tea houses, bakeries and shops selling honey and local cheese.

Dinner is at the Çamlıhemşin cafe-restaurant on the river, where we feast on chargrilled chicken skewers, white bean stew in a rich tomato sauce, and hunks of bread. With the help of Google Translate, our waiter proudly tells us that the loaf is homemade.

A bakery in Çamlıhemşin. Photograph: Hester Underhill

After dinner, a staggering series of hairpin bends leads to our accommodation: Dudi Konağı, a towering stone mansion that clings to the valleyside. Once one of the grandest private homes in the region, it was built in the early 1900s by the Tarakçıoğlu family, who made their fortunes in Russia. Today it’s a 24-room guesthouse with restored timber panelling, carved stone fireplaces and rustic wooden furnishings. We’re ushered up to our room on the third floor, where we fall asleep to the sound of a nearby stream and the soft croaking of frogs.

The next day, we head off deeper into the valley, towards the lofty, snow-capped peaks of the Kaçkar mountains. We trace the course of the river, passing thundering waterfalls hidden within corridors of beech and chestnut trees, and stone bridges that date back to the early years of the Ottoman empire.

Our first stop is Zil castle, a 14th-century fortress that rises above the thick forest canopy. Historians believe it was constructed by the empire of Trebizond, an offshoot of the Byzantine empire that thrived along the Silk Road. For centuries, Zil castle guarded a critical mountain pass that connected inland routes with ports on the Black Sea, watching over caravans carrying spices and silks between Europe and Asia. Today, it’s a miraculously preserved masterpiece of medieval engineering, with sweeping panoramic views across the valley.

As we press on, we spot a colourful new addition to the landscape: rhododendron bushes. These plants, bursting with bright purple flowers in early summer, are responsible for one of the region’s more unusual delicacies, deli bal (or “mad honey”). The nectar of this native variety of rhododendron contains a neurotoxin that slows the heart rate, is said to pack a hallucinogenic punch and has aphrodisiac properties. The honey is among the world’s most expensive. With the land too steep and rugged for regular agriculture, beekeeping is big business here.

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The region is home to the Hemshin people, an ethnic minority who originated in Armenia but have been present in the Black Sea region since the eighth century. This relative isolation has helped keep its distinctive language, culture and traditions alive. One age-old custom is black hive beekeeping, which involves hoisting hives high into the branches of hornbeam trees, so they are out of the reach of greedy bears.

A young tea picker in Rize, which is Turkey’s leading tea-producing region. Photograph: Can Yalcin/Alamy

As we edge out of the Fırtına valley, the road turns to a rocky track and snakes upwards into the Kaçkar mountains. We head deeper into the clouds until we’re enveloped by thick mist. Our final stop, Elevit, is a small mountain hamlet, which perches prettily on a high-altitude plateau. People only live here in the summer months to tend their livestock, then descend to the towns when the snow arrives. It’s still quite early in the year and the village is eerily quiet. The mist adds to the mysterious atmosphere: shuttered wooden chalets appear ghost-like through the haze; a technicolour blanket of wildflowers has a thin, dewy sheen.

Behind the fog lie the high peaks of the Kaçkars. An extension of the Caucasus, the range extends 620 miles along Turkey’s Black Sea coast, making them more than twice as long as the Pyrenees. While it’s possible to hike here without a guide, it’s not advisable. The area isn’t properly set up for day hikers; paths through the rugged terrain aren’t marked clearly. Had we more time, we would sign ourselves up for a guided trek – offered by the likes of Montis and Two Ararat – to explore the untamed wilderness of lofty peaks, glacial lakes and mountain pastures. But with our road trip set to continue over the border into Georgia, our exploration into the Kaçkars ends in Elevit.

Much of the region has a surprisingly alpine feel. Photograph: Murat Nergiz/Alamy

We drive back to Çamlıhemşin with dusk casting an amber glow over the valley, the river below glinting like a ribbon of steel between the darkening trees. We end our day playing backgammon (or tavla) in a dimly lit, wood-panelled tea house that feels like a working men’s club. The clientele sip tea from tulip-shaped glasses as their wooden counters clack speedily across the board.

The proprietor asks us what we make of his region. “Güzel,” (beautiful) we tell him. He gives us a wide grin and nods. It’s easy to understand why this place inspires such fierce pride in those who call it home. Rize is not packaged for mass tourism, and that’s precisely what makes it worth exploring – a place that still feels wild, where ancient cultures live on, and the tea is always hot.

Accommodation was provided by Dudi Konağı (dudikonagi.com); rooms from €140 a night B&B



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