reviews

Mar Hall Hotel and Resort near Glasgow underwent a £20m refurbishment and was voted in the top 20 resorts in Europe by Condé Nast Traveler readers – and I recently stayed there

Many tourists are drawn to Scotland for the Highlands, Loch Ness and whisky — not necessarily the outskirts of Glasgow. However, I recently discovered a charming corner of Scotland is just a stone’s throw from the baggage claim.

The phrase “airport hotel” isn’t one that ignites much enthusiasm. They’re more often a necessary inconvenience than a destination, but just outside Scotland’s largest city lies the newly refurbished Mar Hall Hotel and Resort. Let’s be clear, this isn’t so much an ‘airport hotel’ as it is a hotel near an airport. The five-star resort has recently undergone a £20million makeover under new management.

Despite being no more than 30 minutes from my flat, it feels like an escape to the country. Arriving at 3pm, which is sunset during the depths of winter here, the sun casts a golden hue over the Clyde and the gently rolling hills and trees beyond. Toto, I don’t think we’re in Glasgow anymore.

The new Mar Hall

At the grand old age of 180, Mar Hall has had several incarnations. Originally commissioned by the 11th Lord Blantyre as the latest Erskine house estate, it was later transformed into a hospital for soldiers returning from World War 1 with amputations.

Fast forward to 2025 and Mar Hall finds itself under fresh ownership once more. For Glaswegians such as myself, an evening spent in a lavish period property offers a welcome escape from everyday life. For those travelling from further away, it provides an exceptionally luxurious introduction to Scotland.

Despite the hotel’s new proprietors being Dubai-based — and its Instagram-ready aesthetic — Mar Hall’s makeover feels unmistakably Scottish. During a tour of the recently renovated establishment, Jim Hamilton from Graven, the interior design company behind the transformation, told me he grew up locally and still lives minutes away.

The quintessentially Glaswegian design house Timorous Beasties provided wallpapers and fabrics, while Glasgow’s Artpistol gallery sourced much of the artwork displayed throughout, including pieces from recent Glasgow School of Art graduates.

Noting how Mar Hall has transformed from “home to hospital to hospitality”, Jim said they aimed to maintain that sense of homeliness and care in its latest incarnation.

One of the callbacks to its Victorian roots is the potted palm trees flanking the entrance hall — a nod to an era when exotic plants were a symbol of sophistication and worldliness. The attention to detail extended to the very walls. A series of four large paintings depicting Scotland’s seasons, commissioned from Scottish artist Nichol Wheatley, are set within custom wall panelling, reflecting the style of the period.

The aesthetic is a bold mix of vibrant colours and patterns: it’s Victorian, but with a 2025 twist. Your gaze is constantly drawn upwards through the lofty spaces towards the stunning vaulted ceilings above. The overall effect is lavish and chic, yet inviting. Whilst it is a five-star resort, the staff are incredibly friendly, making me feel perfectly at ease.

The rooms

It’s nearing December and the hotel has been fully decked out for the festive season. The receptionist, who offers a typically warm Scottish welcome, pauses before the doors to the Gallery, clearly excited to show me the grand room at the heart of the hotel.

For a moment, I worry about having to feign excitement for this kindly lady, but when she swings open the doors, I’m genuinely taken aback. It’s even more impressive in person than online.

To reach one of the hotel’s 74 rooms, guests walk through the Gallery with its plush seating, fireplaces and marble bar. I’m handed the keys to the Erskine grand suite for the night, priced at £1,125 per night, kitted out with a regal sitting room and grand piano.

The sitting room and bathroom, featuring a rolltop bath, offer views over the golf course, River Clyde and picturesque woodlands beyond, in that order. The bespoke bookcases are so perfectly illuminated — as is everything in the hotel — that when I meet Jim, I can’t resist asking if he would design my flat pro bono.

The festive decorations extend to the rooms. I’m thrilled to discover a Christmas tree in the lounge, sparkling next to a handwritten note and dish of treats welcoming me to Mar Hall. It’s enough to make anyone feel warm and fuzzy.

The bedroom, with its luxurious four-poster bed and impeccably luxurious bedding, lulls me to sleep shortly after I start watching a cheesy Netflix Christmas film. It’s a pity I can’t spend more time savouring a hotel room of this standard.

Mar Hall only reopened in May this year, but I hear Kylie Minogue has already stayed in these suites twice.

The food

Before dinner, I enjoy a drink in the Slàinte bar, which is delightfully cosy with a crackling fireplace and a Christmas tree. For dinner, smoked salmon, beef, and sticky toffee pudding are the mainstays of ‘fancy dining’ in Scotland and rightly so. I’m pleased to see all three on the menu.

Layering local smoked salmon on a bed of horseradish and a crunchy cracker was a real treat. The blade of beef was as tender as expected, with dauphinoise and honey-roasted carrots making for a perfect mouthful. The only critique I’d have is that the pudding could have done with more toffee sauce, as is often the case.

The unexpected highlight, however, were the warm fig bread rolls – they’ve been on my mind ever since. And all throughout, the service struck a good balance between being attentive and unobtrusive.

Breakfast in the Dining Room offers a continental selection with a variety of hot options including full Scottish breakfast, sausage egg roll, eggs Benedict, and porridge. I chose the ‘rise & shine crumpet’, a tasty combination of Argyll smoked salmon with scrambled egg.

Location and facilities

Mar Hall is set within a 240-acre estate, just a 25-minute drive from Glasgow city centre or a mere 10 minutes from Glasgow Airport. However, it’s not easily reachable by public transport.

The 18-hole Earl of Mar golf course is conveniently located just outside. Like the hotel, it boasts picturesque views of the River Clyde and the Kilpatrick Hills.

The spa features a swimming pool, saunas and steam rooms. Other amenities include a gym, games room and private screening room.

Final thoughts

Mar Hall’s new owners have invested millions into the hotel with the aim of making it a world-class destination. Resort director Andy Roger shared plans for a clubhouse featuring a second restaurant and a state-of-the-art indoor-outdoor spa.

However, it faces tough competition just an hour up the M8. This year, Mar Hall made it into the top 20 resorts in Europe as voted by readers of American luxury travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler. The number one spot on the list? Gleneagles. This iconic resort is a Scottish summer camp for the rich, offering seven eateries, three golf courses and a spa, along with horse riding, shooting, fishing, off-roading and more in the hills of the Perthshire resort.

While it may not be a full-service millionaire’s playground, I’m already excited about returning. Mar Hall tops my list for a pampering staycation with my husband or for afternoon tea with out-of-town visitors. Once the spa is refurbished, I know it’ll be a huge hit with locals.

The more time I spent at Mar Hall, the less I wanted to leave, and that’s the sign of a great hotel.

Booking details

Rooms and packages can be booked through Mar Hall’s website. Rooms start from £292.

When an LAPD captain stood up during a meeting this fall and asked Chief Jim McDonnell to explain the role of his most trusted deputy, Dominic Choi, other top brass in attendance waited with anticipation for the reply.

Multiple department sources, who requested anonymity to discuss the private meeting and speak candidly about their boss, said McDonnell’s answer drew confused looks.

Some officials had began to wonder how closely the 66-year-old McDonnell, who stepped into the job in November 2024 after recent work in consulting and academia, was involved in day-to-day operations. Choi is often attached to his hip, and McDonnell has privately advised other senior staff to go through the assistant chief for key matters, leaving some uncertainty about how shots are called, the sources said.

At the senior staff meeting, McDonnell joked about not wanting to talk about Choi — who was not present in the room — behind his back, and told the captain that Choi was simply his “eyes and ears,” without offering more clarity, according to the sources.

The awkward exchange reflected the uncertainty that some LAPD officials feel about McDonnell’s leadership style.

Over the last year, The Times spoke with numerous sources, from high-ranking commanders to beat cops on the street, along with recently retired LAPD officials and longtime department observers, to gather insights on McDonnell’s first 12 months as the city’s top cop.

By some measures, McDonnell has been a success. Violent crime citywide has continued to decline. Despite the LAPD’s hiring struggles, officials say that applications by new recruits have been increasing. And support for the chief remains strong in some political circles, where backers lauded his ability to navigate so many challenges, most not of his own making — from the city’s financial crisis and civil unrest to the devastating wildfires that hit just two months after he was sworn in.

At the same time, shootings by police officers have increased to their highest levels in nearly a decade and the LAPD’s tactics at protests this summer drew both public outrage and lawsuits. Some longtime observers worry the department is sliding back into a defiant culture of past eras.

“You’ve got a department that’s going to bankrupt the city but doesn’t want to answer for what it is going to be doing,” said Connie Rice, a civil rights attorney.

In an interview with The Times, McDonnell said he is proud of how his department has performed. He said his bigger plans for the LAPD are slowly coming together.

McDonnell rose through the LAPD’s ranks early in his career, and acknowledged much has changed in the 14 years that he was away from the department. That’s why he has leaned “heavily” on the expertise of Choi, who served as interim chief before he took over, he said.

“He’s been a tremendous partner for me coming back,” McDonnell said.

Dominic Choi, who served as interim LAPD chief before Jim McDonnell was hired, speaks at a 2024 news conference with federal law enforcement officials.

(Al Seib / For The Times)

McDonnell added that he has relied just as much on his other command staff, encouraging them to think and act for themselves “to get the job done.”

Retired LAPD commander Lillian Carranza is among those saying the new chief has failed to shake things up after Michel Moore stepped down abruptly in January 2024.

Instead, she said, McDonnell has lacked the decisiveness required to make real changes in the face of resistance from the police union and others.

“It appears that the chief thought he was coming back to the LAPD from 15 years ago,” she said of McDonnell. “It’s been a disappointment because of the individuals that he’s promoted — it just seems like Michel Moore 2.0 again.”

There are notable contrasts in style and strategy between McDonnell and his predecessor.

Moore, who did not respond to a call seeking comment, often used his pulpit to try to get out ahead of potential crises. McDonnell has kept a lower profile. He has largely halted the regular press briefings that Moore once used to answer questions about critical incidents and occasionally opine on national issues.

Unlike Moore, who developed a reputation as a demanding manager who insisted on approving even minor decisions, McDonnell has seemingly embraced delegation. Still, his perceived deference to Choi, who also served as a top advisor to Moore, has led to questions about just how much has really changed. Choi has represented the department at nearly a fourth of all Police Commission meetings this year, a task usually performed by the chief.

Former LAPD Chief Michel Moore attends an event at the Police Academy on Dec. 7, 2023.

(Irfan Khan / Los Angeles Times)

It’s telling of their closeness, LAPD insiders said, that Choi occupies the only other suite on the 10th floor of LAPD headquarters with direct access, via a balcony, to McDonnell’s own office.

Choi did not respond to a request for comment.

Mayor Karen Bass chose McDonnell as chief after a lengthy nationwide search, picking him over candidates who would have been the first Black woman or first Latino to lead the department. He offered experience, having also served as police chief in Long Beach and as L.A. County sheriff.

McDonnell has mostly avoided the type of headline-grabbing scandals that plagued the department under Moore. Meanwhile, homicides citywide were on pace to reach a 60-year low — a fact that the mayor has repeatedly touted as her reelection campaign kicks into gear.

In a brief statement, the mayor commended McDonnell and said she looked forward to working with him to make the city safer “while addressing concerns about police interaction with the public and press.”

Jim McDonnell shakes hands with Mayor Karen Bass after being introduced as LAPD chief during a news conference at City Hall on Oct. 4, 2024.

(Ringo Chiu / For The Times)

McDonnell has taken steps to streamline the LAPD’s operations, including folding the department’s four homicide bureaus into the Robbery-Homicide Division and updating the department’s patrol plan to account for the department being down fewer officers.

John Lee, who chairs the City Council’s public safety committee, said the chief is the kind of experienced and steady leader the city needs as it gets ready to host the World Cup and Olympics. McDonnell, he said, deserves credit for guiding the LAPD through “unprecedented situations,” while largely delivering on promises to reduce crime and lift officer morale.

But among the rank and file, there is continued frustration with the department’s disciplinary system. The process, which critics outside the LAPD say rarely holds officers accountable, is seen internally as having a double standard that leads to harsh punishments for regular cops and slaps on the wrist for higher-ranking officials. Efforts at reform have repeatedly stalled in recent years.

McDonnell told The Times that officers have for years felt that the system was stacked against them. One of his priorities is “making the disciplinary system more fair in the eyes of those involved in it,” he said, and speeding up internal affairs investigations that can drag on for a year or more without “jeopardizing accountability or transparency.”

He said he’d like to give supervisors greater authority to quickly weed out complaints that “are demonstrably false on their face” based on body camera footage and other evidence.”

But the lack of progress on the issue has started to rankle the Los Angeles Police Protective League, the union for officers below the rank of lieutenant. The League urged McDonnell to take action in a statement to The Times.

“The way we see it, the Chief is either going to leverage his mandate and implement change, much to the chagrin of some in his command staff that staunchly support the status quo, or he will circle the wagons around the current system and continue to run out the clock,” the statement read. ”There’s no need to keep booking conference rooms to meet and talk about ‘fixing discipline,’ it’s time to fish or cut bait.”

Perhaps more than anything, the ongoing federal immigration crackdown has shaped McDonnell’s first year as chief.

Although McDonnell is limited in what he can do in the face of raids by Immigration and Customs Enforcement and other federal agencies, some of the chief’s detractors say he is missing a moment to improve relations between police and citizens of a majority-Latino city.

The son of Irish immigrants from Boston, McDonnell drew criticism during President Trump’s first term when, as L.A. County sheriff, he allowed ICE agents access to the nation’s largest jail. As LAPD chief, McDonnell has often voiced his support for long-standing policies that restrict cooperation on civil immigration enforcement and limit what officers can ask members of the public about their status in the country.

“I get hate mail from two extremes: those that are saying we’re not doing enough to work with ICE and those that are saying we’re working with ICE too much,” McDonnell said.

U.S. Border Patrol Cmdr. Gregory Bovino marches with federal agents to the Edward R. Roybal Federal Building on Aug. 14.

(Carlin Stiehl / Los Angeles Times)

Deputy Chief Alan Hamilton, who runs the department’s detective bureau, said McDonnell has to tread lightly politically and can’t follow the suggestion of some people that “we should use our law enforcement agencies to fight back against the feds.”

“He can’t come out and say, ‘We oppose ICE, get out of our city,’ like some of these other clowns are doing,” Hamilton said. “I mean, what, are you just trying to bring the wrath?”

But the LAPD’s response to the protests against Trump’s agenda has repeatedly led to bad optics. Officers have stepped in to keep the peace when angry crowds form at the scene of ICE arrests, which some said created the appearance of defending the federal actions.

During large demonstrations — which have occasionally turned unruly, with bricks and Molotov cocktails hurled by some in the crowds — LAPD officers on foot or horseback have not held back in swinging batons, firing less-lethal munitions and even launching tear gas, a measure that hadn’t been deployed on the streets of L.A. in decades.

Press rights organizations and a growing list of people who say they were injured by police have filed lawsuits, potentially adding to the tens of millions in the legal bills the department already faces for protest-related litigation from years that predated McDonnell.

Attorney Susan Seager, who is suing the department over its recent protest tactics, said that McDonnell has seemed unwilling to second-guess officers, even when confronted with clear video evidence of them violating court-imposed restrictions.

“I’ve never seen LAPD so unhinged at a protest shooting people,” she said.

An LAPD officer pushes back an anti-ICE protester during a rally on “No Kings Day” in downtown Los Angeles on June 14.

(Carlin Stiehl / Los Angeles Times)

McDonnell said that each use of force would be investigated thoroughly, and if necessary discipline would be imposed, but denied that his department’s response had been excessive.

What goes unmentioned by the LAPD’s detractors, he said, is how volatile and “kinetic,” protests have been, requiring officers to use all means available to them to avoid being overwhelmed by hostile crowds.

Reporters and others on the front lines should know the risks of being there, he said.

“If the journalists are in that environment, they sometimes get hit with less-lethal projectiles — as do our police officers who are in that same environment,” he said.