I visited the retro seaside town with no loud arcades or rides
SEAGULLS glide peacefully overhead, waves lap gently on the shingle shore and locals natter as they stroll along, pulled forwards by their eager dogs.
This is everything the British seaside should be. But something’s missing — and I’m not sure what.
As I make my way up Aldeburgh’s promenade, soaking up the Suffolk sunshine, it suddenly dawns on me — there isn’t a pier in sight.
And where are the loud arcades, slot machines and screams of kids on fairground rides?
There is none. In fact, there’s only beautiful scenery, peace and quiet. And I absolutely love it.
I’ve always been keen to stop by this Victorian seaside town, drawn in by its rows of pastel-pink merchant houses and its pretty beach peppered with old fishing boats.
Unlike many coastal towns, where you have to dodge carts selling sticks of rock to get to the beach, Aldeburgh’s esplanade is protected as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
There are, however, plenty of souvenir shops, chippies, cafes, ice cream parlours and pubs along its high street.
The White Hart Inn is one of the best spots, pouring pints of Adnams, which is brewed up the road in Southwold.
There’s pub grub too, but if you’re after something a little more fancy, a short walk from here is local favourite, The Suffolk (the-suffolk.co.uk).
It’s consistently named one of the best restaurants in the country, with a menu that focuses on seafood, including whole lobsters and a catch of the day.
I opted for poached cod which came with chunky pancetta, mussels and chard in a delicious cider sauce.
My waitress recommended I wash it down with a Sea Buckthorn Margarita.
Apparently this drink is so loved by locals that there was uproar when it was removed from the menu.
Regulars demanded it be put back on and I’m grateful the restaurant obliged.
If you’re more of a gin lover, be sure to sample some Fishers Gin.
The spirit is produced locally and the family-run distillery offers regular tours.
The 90-minute experiences begin with an ice-cold G&T, followed by a tea-making session with botanicals.
Then there is a look at where the gin is created followed by some more tastings.
After knocking back all those drinks, I was grateful that I only had to walk a few paces to my hotel, The Brudenell.
This coastal retreat has a great spot on the seafront, with beautiful views across the water from its patio.
My room featured an enormous bay window and an adjoining balcony where I could enjoy the fresh sea breeze.
The breakfast is a real treat, too — fluffy pancakes, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and a classic fry-up with local produce.
If you’re keen to explore a little further, the neighbouring town of Snape is well worth a visit.
Here you’ll find Snape Maltings, a series of impressive buildings that were once used to process barley into malt for brewing beer.
The venue hosts Aldeburgh’s annual summer music festival as well as regular classical performances, jazz and lunchtime concerts.
It’s also a shopping destination and a prime spot to pick up house and garden supplies, plants, antiques and musical instruments.
For nature lovers, Snape Maltings borders the River Alde, and boat trips can be booked via Suffolk River Trips that will take you past some impressive points of nature, including the mudflats.
Or, if you fancy simply taking in the views instead, head up to the Snape Maltings cafe that overlooks the reed beds which are teeming with bird life.
After spending a few tranquil days in this neck of the woods, you certainly won’t be missing the piers and arcades.
GO: ALDEBURGH
STAYING THERE: One night’s B&B at The Brudenell costs from £210 based on two people sharing.
See thehotelfolk.co.uk.
OUT & ABOUT: A Fishers Gin Distillery Tour & Tasting Experience starts from £40pp.
See fishersgin.com.
MORE INFO: For more on what to see and do, go to thesuffolkcoast.co.uk.
