readers

Winning tip: an eerie clifftop castle near Aberdeen

Dunnottar Castle, perched on cliffs above the crashing North Sea, is one of Scotland’s eeriest places. The most haunting part is the Whigs Vault, where more than 160 prisoners were confined in dreadful conditions in 1685. Standing in that dark chamber, it’s impossible not to imagine their fear and suffering. With my Fraser ancestry, the castle’s history feels especially poignant. The names of multiple Frasers are recorded, their details written on the wall. The wind whistles through the stonework, the waves thunder below, and there’s a sense that the past hasn’t quite left. It’s beautiful, tragic and wonderfully spooky, especially beneath Aberdeenshire’s brooding grey skies.

Rosie

A Neolithic burial chamber in Pembrokeshire

My dad and I reached Pentre Ifan on a November evening, just before dark. The burial chamber defies explanation: 16 tons of weathered capstone, barely touching three sharp stone points, as though something unseen was holding it up. There was a low hum from somewhere; I hoped it was the wind spilling over the Preseli hills. As the daylight crept away, the chamber beneath grew darker than the settling dusk around us. My dad, who has an explanation for everything, stood silent. I think we walked back to the car a little faster than we had come.

Tom

Haunted by criminals in Somerset

My recommendation is Shepton Mallet prison, or “the Mallet” as it used to be called, back when it was used as a military prison. It opened in 1625, and you can still crawl through a wall into an original cell. The prison has three Victorian blocks and umpteen stories of past prisoners, including the Kray twins. You can have a daytime tour, or a night-time ghost tour, where you’ll hear stories of spooks and ghouls witnessed by many visitors and staff over the years. You can even stay the night in a real, cold, grim prison cell. The staff are friendly and all great characters, I can’t recommend it enough!

Charlie

Hollowed out tower in West Yorkshire

Perched high above Hebden Bridge in the historic hilltop village of Heptonstall lies the roofless shell of St Thomas à Becket church. Raked into ruin by a storm in 1847, this 13th-century structure was left to decay alongside its 19th-century successor, creating a rare site where two parish churches share a single churchyard. Gaunt, towering arches frame open skies, and the hollowed-out stone tower feels like the Tower tarot card made real. Expect goosebumps!

Finbarre Snarey

A pub night you won’t forget in Staffordshire

The Four Crosses Inn is the most haunted pub in England – and I should know: it was in my mother’s family for many generations! I grew up hearing about all the ghostly goings on. It was also one of the oldest pubs (it’s only open for tours now), and family lore has it Dr Johnson stayed there. On the edge of creepy Cannock Chase moor in Staffordshire, the scene of many murders, it has dank cellars and creaking attics for you to get really scared in.

Rob

Poltergeist stories in County Fermanagh

Cooneen Ghost House, near Fivemiletown, is one of Northern Ireland’s eeriest places. The abandoned farmhouse is private, but it can be glimpsed from the road, which somehow makes its old poltergeist stories feel even more unsettling. Nearby Crocknagrally Forest is perfect for a cold-weather ramble to make a day of it, especially on a misty winter afternoon when the tracks are wonderfully secluded and it all feels very remote and spooky. The kind of walk where folklore seems woven into the landscape: dark trees, lonely roads and an old haunted house just out of reach. There are loads of stories around this place that locals will share.

Christina Hawe

Romantic tragedy on Llŷn peninsula

The once abandoned quarrying village of Nant Gwrtheyrn, on Llŷn peninsula, lies at the foot of Yr Eifl, down a terrifyingly steep and winding road. On a misty autumn day, with the crashing waves below you and the unsettling presence of a wild goat peering down at you from the cliffs above, it can be truly eerie. The woods in the valley are home to the tale of Rhys and Meinir – a traditional prenuptial game of hide and seek gone awry, with the skeletal remains of a bride-to-be revealed by a bolt of lightning. The site is free to visit.

Sioned

Crashing waves and call of rooks in Aberdeenshire

On a cold grey day Slains Castle on the east coast of Scotland, north of Aberdeen, certainly has a spooky air. Although rumours about the castle inspiring Bram Stoker when writing Dracula are apparently untrue, the castle ruins bring to mind bats pouring out of windows and unsavoury aristocrats lurking around corners. It is precariously located on cliffs above the North Sea and the crashing waves and calls of rooks and jackdaws provide an evocatively eerie soundtrack to your visit.

Joel Rawlings

Unexplained screams on the South Downs

Chanctonbury Ring is an iron age hill fort ringed by beech trees, on the South Downs in West Sussex. Folklore claims that by walking or running around the ring seven times you’ll see the devil. Writer Robert Macfarlane certainly had an unnerving experience there while camping, as recounted in his 2012 book The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot, when awakened in the dead of night by terrifying human-sounding screams high above him in the tree canopy, which seemed to divide and converge before swooping down upon him. Accessible only on foot, who dares follow in Macfarlane’s footsteps to check out the myth?

Kirsty McHattie

Gothic atmosphere in Whitby

My favourite spooky spot is Whitby Abbey, perched high above the Yorkshire coast. Its ruined arches and weathered stone look dramatic in daylight, but imagine them at dusk, with mist drifting in from the North Sea and the wind moving through the empty windows. Whitby’s narrow streets and harbour add another layer of atmosphere, especially when the lamps come on and the town grows quiet. It is easy to see why Bram Stoker found inspiration here for Dracula. I would love to explore the abbey as the light fades, then wander down towards the harbour, listening to the waves and letting my imagination do the rest. The best spooky places are where history, landscape and legend meet – and Whitby has all three. Its magic endures.

Emilio

Free travel to a Salzberg gem

Bad Gastein is a relatively unknown gem. The Austrian state it sits in, Salzburg, offers free local transport (the guest mobility ticket) if you are staying in the state, so you can travel to the resort via train for nothing. The slopes are directly next to the station, too.

Rob Owen

Family fun in the French Alps

Puy-Saint-Vincent in France is a wonderful, small, child-friendly resort. Our grandchildren learned to ski each morning with great instructors on the gentle slopes under amazing azure skies. Three generations then made memories of a lifetime, skiing the wide quiet slopes together each afternoon. We enjoyed dog sleds and cosy hot chocolate in the slopeside cafes. A wonderful trip.

Barbara

A historic railway and superb skiing in Norway

Gausta, Norway, is such fun. Stay at Gaustablikk, the hotel built by Kirk Douglas’s stuntman, a wonderfully quirky piece of local history. Explore Vemork, the historic heavy-water plant where British and Norwegian resistance fighters carried out their daring sabotage during the second world war. For families, the on-piste skiing is friendly and accessible; while the cross-country trails are simply stunning. Then there’s the real adventure: an old US military train climbs Gaustatoppen, opening up spectacular off-piste skiing with views and terrain that rival much of mainland Europe. It’s a brilliant mix of history, skiing, scenery and adventure, and somehow remains a wonderfully under-the-radar destination.

Fiona

Markets and gluhwein in the Austrian Tirol

As a family of four, we loved St Johann in Tirol. It’s a comfortable Austrian village with Christmas markets, picturesque churches and gorgeous frozen valley walks – with little marmosets and weasels to look out for along the river. Wherever you stay, you can walk to a gondola. It’s really near to Salzburg airport, too. In Austria, kids get all-day lessons, which is a big bonus. Parents can just kick back or wander around and have a gluhwein or two. Prices were very reasonable in the Christmas holidays.

Nick

A locals’ favourite on the Italian border

Tarvisio-Monte Lussari on the Italian-Slovenian border covers 24km (15 miles) of skiable terrain interconnected across two main sectors: the historic and stunning Monte Lussari pilgrimage peak and the Priesnig area. Used by local people and those in the know, it offers sufficient ski runs and good value ski passes and restaurants, and is much cheaper than neighbouring resorts in Austria.

Neil

Magic in the air at La Rosière, France

Stay in the attractive resort of La Rosière in France, in the foothills of the Mont Blanc region. Enjoy the short forest walk to the village, with wind chimes and magic in the air, for an après-ski drink and a cheese fondue in a local tavern with the kids.

Oliver

Off-piste heaven in the Norwegian Alps

About 50km (30 miles) from Ålesund, Strandafjellet has excellent pistes, but also some of the best off-piste skiing in Norway. Strap on a pair of randonnée skis and you can use the lifts to access spectacular backcountry skiing in the Sunnmøre Alps. The views down to the fjord make this truly special. Pistes are illuminated for evening skiing.

Graham

A charming village in Les Trois Vallées

Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, in the French Alps (Les Trois Vallées), is low at about 1,500 metres, so go mid-season. The single run ends smack in the centre of the village, which has retained its historical features along with small, friendly bars and places to eat. Plus, it gives access to the whole of the Trois Vallées ski area – absolutely amazing from one small but beautiful village. There are plenty of choices for accommodation, both expensive and cheap.

Russell Walker

Queue-free skiing for all in Italy’s Dolomites

Brunico is tucked away in the Dolomites, just a 90-minute transfer from Innsbruck. I had a great week at the beginning of March. Unlike bigger resorts, queues were nonexistent here. There are runs for beginners through to experts. Great snow and plenty of opportunities to use it.

Ian B

Winning tip: Bavarian charm and quiet slopes

Oberstdorf in Germany continues to be my go-to for a quiet and restorative ski week away. There are 130km (80 miles) of pistes for all levels, stacks of Bavarian restaurants, a wide variety of mountain huts, plenty of hotels for all budgets and family sizes, and the novelty of skiing into and out of Austria daily. Neuschwanstein Castle is a short hop away for a day off. Unbeatable value.

Daniel Stephens

Collioure is a Mediterranean dream

Last October, while I was cycling around south-west France, near the Spanish border, a tip from a local waiter led me to Collioure, near Perpignan. The town was like a Mediterranean dream, where the summer crowds had faded, leaving behind a peaceful, artistic haven of soft light, warm sunshine, cobbled streets, sandy beaches – and the Pyrenees as a backdrop. In the early evening, the still balmy autumn air was perfect for wandering through the quiet, pastel-coloured alleyways of the Le Mouré district to enjoy €5 off-season happy hour wine with fish tapas. I had planned to stay a weekend but ended up staying a week, seduced by Collioure’s perfect autumn cocktail of chilled Catalan culture and sunkissed seaside sensuality.

April

Peaceful Portuguese sunsets

Sitting outside in T-shirt and shorts on the deck of a boat gliding along the Tagus River in Lisbon, sipping a glass of crisp Portuguese wine as the setting autumn sun illuminated the pastel-coloured hills, is a lasting travel memory for me. October temperatures were still in the mid-20s, perfect for exploring fascinating areas on foot, or hanging out of trams as they rattled up and down the cobbled streets. In the evenings, I joined local people basking in the remaining warmth of the year at outdoor cafes or waterside tavernas like Ponto Final, enjoying coffee and pastries, or anchovies and beer, while watching magnificent sunsets without the summer masses.

Nicoletta

Wild times in St Davids, Pembrokeshire

My autumn escape is St Davids on the Pembrokeshire coast. Once the summer crowds disappear, it feels wonderfully wild and tranquil. We walk the coast path towards Whitesands, stopping to watch for seals below the cliffs, before heading back into tiny St Davids for something warm to eat. The beaches are often almost empty and, even when the weather turns, the dramatic sea and windswept coastline are part of the charm. My tip is to visit in early autumn; pack proper walking boots and layers, and embrace the weather – you get one of Britain’s loveliest coastlines almost to yourself.

Tess

Baroque beauty in eastern Germany

Görlitz makes for a fascinating autumnal base, with its location on the German-Polish border to the east of Dresden. The highlights were day excursions to Bad Muskau, where there is a wonderful baroque palace, and the Rakotzbrücke (Devil’s Bridge), reached by a narrow gauge forest railway (waldeisenbahn.de). It’s a part of Germany rarely visited, but those who go there will be rewarded with amazing photographs.

Martin

Bliss on a lesser-visited Canary island

The Canary Islands are well-trodden choices for autumn sun, but the island of El Hierro remains a wilder alternative to Tenerife or Lanzarote. The scenery is beautiful and bizarrely varied: from pine forests to black volcanic lava flows – most of which you’ll have to yourself. You can pass hours exploring the rugged coastlines, where volcanic swimming holes such as Charco Azul can be found. We spent a blissful few hours there, relaxing on the rocks and looking out at the Atlantic. There are no big resorts but plenty of guest houses and smaller hotels, and sunshine is almost guaranteed into November.

Leo Mark

Dramatic Devon walks

We stayed in Woolacombe, north Devon, with our three-year-old in October 2023 and the off-season suited us well. The three-mile beach gave us room for proper sandcastle engineering, and the Atlantic offered drama rather than deckchair weather. We watched the sunset turn the sea orange and purple from the hill above the bay. We could walk into the village, then use Woolacombe as a base for Mortehoe and the South West Coast Path. Pack waterproofs as well as sunglasses: north Devon makes no promises. But on a bright autumn day, those enormous sands feel almost privately hired.

Katharina Parsons

Coast, culture and cable cars on Madeira

Funchal on Madeira is my pick for an autumn escape because it still feels properly alive after summer. The seafront is made for slow walks in the sunshine, with cafes and gardens open year-round. You can browse the colourful Mercado dos Lavradores, ride the cable car for views over the terracotta rooftops and Atlantic, then cool off at one of the city’s lidos. The weather is pleasantly warm rather than overpowering, while the mountains and levada (aqueduct) walks are within easy reach. It combines coast, culture and dramatic scenery without feeling like a resort that closes down for winter.

Bernice

Clifftops and crab rolls in the Scottish Borders

If you’re looking for a cracking wee coastal escape, head straight to St Abbs in the Scottish Borders. My wife and I absolutely fell in love with its rugged charm and bonny views. First off, Marvel fans will know it as New Asgard from Avengers: Endgame, and taking a selfie by the official sign set the right tone. Beyond the film fame, the dramatic clifftop walk up to St Abb’s Head is brilliant, packed with seabirds and proper fresh sea air. Afterwards, grab a fresh crab roll down at the harbour cafe – nae hassle, just proper good cheer.

Craig

Nonstop sun in a Cretan haven

Autumn came brutal and early to Crete this month. But the ferocious northerly that drenched the northern coast got stuck on the White Mountains. And on just one tiny south-west speck of the island, the sun shone all and every day. Palaiochora is a year-round magic place anyway. No big hotels. Still proudly Greek. A place where the town’s rhythms are set by the comings and goings of the Loutro ferry. But this past week, while thunder stalked the mountains, we swam and walked every day. “We’re unique,” said the man at the cafe. “Please don’t tell anyone.” What have I done?

Kay Jones

Winning tip: Fiestas and feasts in Zaragoza, Spain

For an autumn city break, Zaragoza comes alive during the Fiestas del Pilar in October. We spent a week there, wandering bustling streets lined with people, many in traditional dress, queueing to lay flowers at the vast floral tribute to the Virgin Mary in Plaza del Pilar. Along the river, food stalls served Aragonese specialities, from chistorra (sausage) and stews to roast chestnuts and sweet wine. Between festivities, we explored the stunning Aljafería Palace and discovered tiny tapas bars tucked down side streets. The city felt wonderfully local, lively and full of surprises.

Carrie

An art nouveau spa in Stockholm

Tucked away off a pretty shopping street in a beautiful art nouveau building is one of Stockholm’s oldest spas, Centralbadet where a day ticket costs from £23. As winter darkness descends, candles are lit around the pool and a quiet calm envelops you. Swimming by candlelight is a treat. Next a sauna followed by an ice-cold plunge. Afterwards a nightcap is in order so it’s a brisk walk in the cold crisp air to Fotografiska restaurant. It’s a great spot to savour one of Stockholm’s best views; the old town Gamla Stan and the twinkling lights on Lake Mälaren.
Sarah Rochfort

‘Completely timeless and immersive’: birdwatching in Norfolk

Birdwatching at the Cley and Salthouse marshes in Cley-next-the-sea, Norfolk. The two bird hides are meditative and relaxed spaces. The windows open directly on to the pools of saltwater where many different species of birds obliviously wander around. It’s a place that is completely timeless and immersive. Your only job is to gaze out at the birds. It’s a very popular spot for birdwatching but the atmosphere is friendly and quiet. Someone even let us have a go with their binoculars. We particularly enjoyed watching a nest of baby swallows huddled in the corner of the hide. The marshes cover a wide area and are so important for biodiversity, providing an essential resting place for resident and migratory birds. You might even spot a spoonbill, which have returned to the UK from 2010 after being absent for hundreds of years. Well worth a wellness visit, even if you don’t really know anything about birds (like me).
Petra

Hampshire’s Scandi sauna huts

A fresh ginger concoction, orange slices and a friendly sauna master greeted us at the Hello Outdoors shepherd’s hut sauna, which has a picture window overlooking the historic Lymington Sea Water Baths. The deep blue of the sky and water, Swedish sauna hats, the calming scent of our chosen essential oil, a soothing soundtrack and the option to ease the sauna heat with an exhilarating plunge in an ice-cold tub or more genial dip in the sun-warmed sea baths made for a very enjoyable and restorative couple of hours away from real life. We didn’t want to leave.
Claire Edwards

Forest bathing in Croatia

For five days in Radoboj, northern Croatia, we forest-bathed beneath the trees, walked slowly, practised breathing and meditation and ate simple local food. No luxury spa, no expensive treatments – just nature and time. I wore an Oura smart ring throughout. My resting heart rate fell markedly and, by day four, the ring recorded four and a half hours of restorative time. More importantly, I felt profoundly different. It completely overturned what I thought wellness travel was. Sometimes the most restorative place isn’t a spa. It’s a forest.
Bex Hamilton

Bath time near Sofia, Bulgaria

The natural mineral springs in Sofia mean bathhouses are a way of life. Bankya is on the outskirts of the city, so I travelled by bus to visit the Central Mineral Bath Bankya. This opulent bathhouse is owned by the Sofia municipality, meaning the atmosphere is a mix of the everyday council baths and extraordinary architecture from the early 20th century. You can visit from under €10 and, as well as the promised health benefits of the natural spring water, there is a thermal zone, a salt room, aromatherapy, saunas and steam rooms with an array of massages too.
Sarah Collings

The perfect spa and skiing combo in Poland

While skiing in Zakopane, Poland, we made a lot of use of Terma Bania, an incredible pool and spa centre right in the heart of the ski resort. There is something magical about watching the sun go down in blissfully warm water and surrounded by snow. There is an astonishing array of saunas, pools and steam rooms, surrounded by mountain views. We discovered there are also several thermal pool and spa complexes in the surrounding area, and ended up spending as much of our holiday in the spas as we did on the slopes!
Frances

Simmer by the loch in Argyll

The Lochside Sauna at West Coast Wellness (£17 for 2.5 hours) in Evanachan sits on the shore of Loch Fyne. Hidden away from the single track road, a 10-minute walk takes you to one of the most peaceful saunas in the UK. From the giant window, sit back and watch the water of the loch (keep an eye out for dolphins), slowly preparing yourself to make the short walk down and take a dip in between the heat. Alternatively there is a cold water plunge which if anything is colder than the loch! The centre also offers yoga and pilates sessions and there’s the delicious Inver restaurant just around the corner.
Lewis

Wild swimming and wildlife in North Yorkshire

Wild swimming at Pool Bridge Farm guarantees a wholesome retreat from the vibrant bustle of neighbouring York. Transformed from old fishing ponds, the sprawling site comprises four lakes and ample space for lounging and lunching. A revitalising dip is best paired with a stop in the sauna (£16.50), priming those brave enough for the raw, heady thrill of the next plunge. To top it off, head to nearby Wheldrake Ings nature reserve, one of North Yorkshire’s top wildlife destinations, especially for waterfowl. As the flood waters rise from autumn, so does the abundance of migratory birds. A serene natural scene to soothe the soul.
Fin

Sensory walk in the Black Forest, Germany

My two teenagers and I stumbled on a wellness experience for the mind, body and soul while we were wandering around the Black Forest near our holiday base of Freiburg last summer. A friendly German walker with a tree branch for a stick and a large husky for a companion told us to try a barefoot sensory trail at Park mit Allen Sinnen (park of all the senses) as we walked along together through the forest. So we followed his advice. It involved walking barefoot over grass, sand, woodchips, stone, mud and more while trying to tune into our five senses. We began by putting our hands into hollowed-out trees with our eyes closed to guess what objects were placed there. There were bright, colourful flowers, natural scents to imagine and huts to relax and sit in full of sounds and smells to immerse ourselves in with eyes closed. We repeated these walks for three days, heightening our contact with our own senses – and treating ourselves to rye bread and cheese sandwiches with forest fruits berry juice from simple forest cafe cabins as a reward.
Helen

Winning tip: County Donegal’s peerless sauna on the pier

If you find yourself on the wild coast of south County Donegal, head to the Sliabh Liag Sauna at Teelin pier. After a day of hiking (and maybe one or two pints of porter the evening before), the small wood-fired sauna right on the pier was the perfect unwind. We followed it up by taking a sea dip in the bay just steps away. If you have plenty of time, combine the sauna with a nearby boat trip to the unforgettable Sliabh Liag sea cliffs towering 601 metres (1,972ft) above the sea.
Peter Henry