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‘Everything is golden’: readers’ tips for a great autumn day out in the UK | United Kingdom holidays

Gambling on sunshine at Loch Lomond

I love Loch Lomond in autumn. I’d start with a walk around Balmaha village and a stretch of the West Highland Way, pretending I’m there for the scenery rather than earning the right to eat something massive afterwards. Autumn is when it looks best: orange hills, cold air, dramatic clouds and the constant Scottish gamble of whether you’ll get sunshine, sideways rain, or both within 10 minutes. I finish, if I’m not driving, with a wee dram to properly round things off.
Pete

Cornwall’s wild autumn seas

The coastal path from Godrevy. Photograph: Peter Lane/Alamy

The rough beauty of Cornwall’s sea views appeals to me. A great autumn day involves walking along the staggered cliff edges between Godrevy and Portreath. The isolated nature of the coastal paths makes me feel as if the sea is singing just for me, while below the waves go wild, waiting to be admired. On this walk, you will be rewarded with the most breathtaking views, lone benches and burnt orange sunsets.
Oliwia

A hydro-powered house in Northumberland

Cragside was a technological marvel of the 19th century, with hydroelectric power and hydraulic gadgets. Photograph: Jonathan Ayres/Alamy

When I first visited the National Trust’s Cragside in Northumberland, a staff member at the entrance made the bold claim that it was “the best place in England”. In autumn you can really see their point. The estate’s 1,000 acres are covered with a huge variety of trees that transform the landscape into a mixture of reds, oranges and deep greens, contrasting perfectly with the often misty Northumberland weather. It’s a perfect autumn day trip for woodland walks, possibly stopping for a picnic at one of the many lakes or gardens, and visiting the extraordinary hydro-powered Victorian house with its pioneering gadgets.
Everly

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Bonita Philp

Deep in the forest in the Scottish Borders

Lichen on fir trees in the Glentress Forest. Photograph: Tom Richardson Scotland/Alamy

Glentress Forest in the Scottish Borders is hard to beat on a crisp autumn day. Start with a walk or mountain-bike ride through the forest, when the trails are surrounded by copper, red and gold, and climb high enough for brilliant views across the Tweed valley. Afterwards, warm up with coffee and something sweet at the cafe before heading into nearby Peebles for a wander along the river and around its independent shops. It feels properly remote despite being less than an hour from Edinburgh. And, whether you’re cycling or walking, autumn is when the forest is at its most spectacular.
Remi Lapeyre

Birmingham’s secret oasis

Winterbourne Gardens. Photograph: Michael Kemp/Alamy

Winterbourne House and Garden at Birmingham University is a wonderful little oasis in Edgbaston, just outside the city centre. A beautiful Arts and Crafts style house, set in stunning gardens, it is a lovely place for a wander and is especially beautiful on a sunny day in early autumn when everything is golden. See herons at the reservoir, talk to friendly robins by the walled garden and browse the bookshop. Have coffee there and then head into nearby Harborne for lunch or dinner.
Rachel

Rivers and ruins in a Lancashire valley

The River Roddlesworth near Darwen. Photograph: Walker/Alamy

Rocky Brook is the name given by locals to the River Roddlesworth, which flows through a wonderful wooded valley at the edge of the West Pennine Moors. The woodland, planted by Liverpool Corporation Waterworks, provides plenty of autumn colour. A network of paths allows exploration of the woods and the ruins of Hollinshead Hall and well house. There’s a public car park, cafe and pub (the Royal Arms) at Ryal Fold, and for those who walk north-west through the woods there’s also the Hare & Hounds at Abbey Village. Four buses a day run from Blackburn to the Royal.
Graham Dean

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Twisted oaks and fungi in the Peak District

Sessile oaks in Padley Gorge. Photograph: Septemberlegs/Getty Images

The Longshaw estate in the Peak District is perfect for an autumn stroll. Both Oaks Wood and Bolehill Quarry have a huge variety of fungi in their hidden depths. The twisted oak trees in Padley Gorge look at their most spectacular on early autumn misty mornings. It’s easy to explore pathways on the estate with the friendly free social walk every Wednesday. Finish a wonderful day with a treat in the cafe.
Katharine

A lime tree avenue in Nottinghamshire

Clumber Park’s avenue of trees is one of the longest in Europe. Photograph: Eye35 Pix/Alamy

Clumber Park is a must-visit at this time of year. The National Trust property features peaceful woodlands with golden leaf carpets, crisp lakeside views and an ornamental bridge. You’ll want to keep your camera handy as you enter a double tree avenue of 1,296 limes stretching three miles (one of the longest in Europe), which provides a gorgeous golden canopy. The walled kitchen garden is a favourite with its massive apple collection and seasonal displays. The apple juice I’ve tried here is some of the best I’ve tasted.
Asma

A Roman autumn at Hadrian’s Wall

Late autumn at Steel Rigg. Photograph: Donaleen Shiell/Alamy

My perfect autumn day is walking Hadrian’s Wall from Steel Rigg, when the moorland turns copper and gold and every climb rewards you with another enormous Northumberland view. Pack a flask, sturdy boots and something waterproof – the weather changes its mind even faster than I do. You only pay for parking, and shorter out- and

Winning tip: Steaming through north Wales

The Llangollen Railway. Photograph: Paul Weston/Alamy

My perfect autumn day out is a trip on the Llangollen Railway in north Wales. There’s something magical about travelling through the Dee valley on a steam train when the leaves have turned orange and gold. We start in Llangollen, grab something warm to drink, then climb aboard for the journey alongside the River Dee, watching the autumn scenery through the window. Afterwards, we wander around Llangollen, exploring the little shops. It’s simple, nostalgic and feels like autumn properly arriving – especially when you hear the steam train whistle through the valley.
Chelsea

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‘Gateways to heaven’: readers’ favourite trips in Europe’s mountains | Travel

All the fun of the funicular in Switzerland

No doubt your first thought on hearing the words “double-decker” is of a bus. But in the Swiss village of Stans, an old wooden funicular carriage ascends to the station, where a double-decker cable car awaits. Inside, a spiral staircase leads you to an open upper viewing deck. At the summit, the views back to Lucerne are superb, and there are alpine marmots to spot too. There was a wedding ceremony going on at the summit on our trip!
Martin

Liechtenstein’s Route 66

Looking across the Three Sisters. Photograph: GanzTwins/Getty Images

Steinbock, marmot and elderflower jam are in abundance on Liechtenstein’s Route 66 track – a  multi-day hike that is popular with locals, but little known to others. The route traverses the Drei Schwestern (the Three Sisters), where you’ll experience white knuckles and lush valley views. After an easy 5km hike, you land at the first mountain hut, where a succulent homemade three-course dinner awaits you. Befriend the other walkers over a game of cards, as golden hour lights up the mountains.
Inez

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Picturesque French Pyrenees

Luz Saint Sauveur is surrounded by tall peaks. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

Luz Saint Sauveur in the French Pyrenees is the gateway to heaven. Whether it be by bike, car, motorbike or on foot, stunning surroundings, wildlife-a-plenty and quaint French shops await you at this picturesque market town. Eat the local saucisson, drink the jurançon white wine, marvel at the blue skies in the shadows of the legendary Tour de France Cols, jump in canyons and be merry with the surroundings. Simply beautiful and fun for all ages.
Will

High on the hog in Donegal

Muckish is a flat-topped mountain to the north of Glenveagh national park. Photograph: Steven Granville/Getty Images

For mountain scenery without Alpine crowds, head to north-west Donegal. Errigal gets the attention, but don’t overlook flat-topped Muckish, whose name comes from the Irish for “pig’s back”. Drive the small roads around the Poisoned Glen and through Glenveagh national park, where each bend reveals another reason to stop. Allow far longer than the satnav suggests: our best moments came from pulling over for an unexpected view rather than racing between sights. Pack walking shoes and a picnic, then reward yourself afterwards in a cosy pub. Here, a mountain day can include Atlantic beaches and a well-earned pint.
Niamh Kerr

The quiet side of Italy’s Dolomites

Alpine hut Rifugio Agostini was the highlight of Ben Bryant’s trip. Photograph: Johannes 86/Getty Images

The Brenta Dolomites seem to go strangely unnoticed, while the main Dolomites heave with Instagrammers. We based ourselves in Pinzolo, an alpine town an hour north of Lake Garda, then took the lift from Madonna di Campiglio for a three-day hut-to-hut trek, tackling two via ferrata routes across knife-edge ridges and limestone spires. Rifugio Agostini was the highlight: a warm welcome and hearty mountain food after a hard day’s climbing, with jagged peaks filling every window. We descended into the town of Molveno for a well-earned aperitivo by the lake.
Ben Bryant

A spectacular climb in Kosovo

The Lumbardhi River in Prizren. Photograph: Engin Korkmaz/Alamy

After exploring Kosovo’s historic monasteries and wartime memorials, we escaped to the Sharr mountains national park, a 40-minute drive south of Prizren. The road winds through the spectacular Zhupa valley and follows the bubbling Lumbardhi river through its steep-sided gorge. At Prevallë, we left the car and began what turned out to be a strenuous climb over rocky paths and grassy slopes. We kept expecting the summit to appear, but every turn revealed another, until we finally reached our destination and were met with spectacular mountain views. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves at Hotel Krojet with coffee and a reviving glass of raki.
Roy Messenger

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Peaceful paths above Lake Como

The Via dei Monti Lariani passes close to Mount Bregagno.
Photograph: Mauritius/Alamy

This spring, my partner and I hiked the Via dei Monti Lariani, a 78-mile (125km) trail through the mountains on the western shore of Lake Como between Cernobbio and Sorico. Skirting the border between Italy and the Swiss canton of Ticino, the route passes through mountain pastures with views towards the Alps, and remote villages shaped by a history of cross-border smuggling. The accommodation is a highlight, ranging from Alpine rifugios to agriturismi, where we sampled regional specialities, including polenta uncia, polenta with local cheese and butter, and pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta with cabbage and potatoes. Quiet trails, excellent food and complex history made it an especially rewarding route.
Ross Cameron

Grand canyons of the Spanish Pyrenees

Santa Engràcia, high in the Pyrenees. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

This summer my family and I stayed at Fox House in the tiny village of Santa Engràcia in the Tremp valley, in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. Perched on a cliff edge, the beautifully renovated guest house has panoramic views, eclectic art and a warm homely feel. Laura and Carl were excellent hosts, creating a relaxed atmosphere and serving delicious evening meals. Days were a mix of poolside downtime and outdoor adventure, including rafting, mountain biking, canyon kayaking and swimming in crystal blue lakes.
Maria

Campsite with a view in Austria

Camping Grubhof is on the Saalach River. Photograph: APA/Alamy

Camping Grubhof, in the small town of Lofer between Salzburg and Zell am See, is simply beautiful. It’s an immaculate campsite, surrounded by mountains. Lofer (and the campsite) have direct access to a huge network of cycle trails as well as to the beautiful village swimming pool (free with the local access pass). Walking high in the mountains, surrounded by cows with bells is simply beautiful. Come the afternoon, there’s time for an apple strudel at a mountain hut and a glass of radler low alcohol beer. There is a camping meadow where you can pitch a tent and cabins to rent, as well as the best shower blocks I’ve come across.
Mark

Winning tip: Stars, sunsets and glaciers in Italy

Rifugio Bertone has commanding views of surrounding peaks. Photograph: Universal Images Group/Getty Images

The views over Mont Blanc from Rifugio Bertone in Italy are incredible, but it’s the whole experience that makes it special – great food, proper mountain atmosphere, and the Balconata Val Ferret has some of the best walking in the area. It’s also near Courmayeur, which is a lovely town. Arrive for sunset, watch the light move across the glaciers, then look up at the stars as Mont Blanc disappears into the darkness. A brilliant place to eat, walk, breathe and simply take in the mountains. And it’s very affordable.
Eddie Campbell

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‘I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine’: readers’ favourite foodie experiences in Europe | Food and drink

Simple sardines in the Algarve

Last August, the smoky aroma of grilled sardines drifting over the beach in Portimão woke me up from my sunbathing on the beach. Attracted by the aroma of barbecued fish, we found ourselves in the old port where, for €12, I was served two delicious sandwiches on rustic bread of sardines in garlic and olive oil, with a small cold beer. I sat down, ate and chatted with locals on benches at simple communal tables. The important thing seemed to be to enjoy food together. The next morning, a reenactment of the fishing boats arriving loaded with fish, as they once were, was a real spectacle – complete with guitar playing, drum-banging and excited seagulls whirling and wailing above in the hope of a feast. Later, concerts and dancing animated the town as the party for the sardine festival went on well into the night. Cooking demos and dishes including sardine-based soup and salads, added to the enjoyment. I never imagined such pleasure could be had from the simple sardine.
Joe

A family dinner in the Faroe Islands

Faroe Islands salmon. Photograph: Roberto Moiola/Sysaworld/Getty Images

My wife and I visited the Faroe Islands a few years ago, where we took part in heimablídni, a concept where traditional Faroese food is served in a home. We found it to be one of the best ways to experience the Faroes and a unique experience to share a meal with a local family. Homecooked dishes showcase ingredients from the surrounding sea and mountains. We were served smoked salmon from the host’s own smoker, lamb, potatoes and traditional specialities, all accompanied with great conversation about Faroese life and traditions. Sitting around a family table makes the experience feel personal and authentic.
Mike

A vegan feast in Sicily

Chickpea fritters in Palermo. Photograph: Randolph Images/Alamy

As a vegan who loves trying local cuisine, the combination of warm hospitality and a high proportion of locals with a lactose intolerance makes Sicily the ideal foodie getaway. Having hiked to the top of Monte Pellegrino in 35C heat, we popped into a small nondescript street-food shop (the only place that was open) and were delighted to find panelle – delicious crispy chickpea-flour fritters served in sesame bread. We ate them overlooking Palermo harbour. That evening, we tried Haiku, a vegan restaurant with reimagined classics based on dishes such as carbonara and tiramisu. It was so good we kept ordering more and more courses until we could barely move.
Esther

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Strong spirits and small plates in Greece

Tsipouro and meze in Volos. Photograph: Wirestock/Alamy

The city of Volos is famous for its Tsipouradika – tavernas that serve tsipouro, a strong spirit made from pomace, the stems, skins and seeds that are left over from wine making. It comes plain or infused with botanicals and anise, and is served with ice and water. Each glass you order arrives with a different small plate or meze. It could be grilled peppers, sundried octopus, a spicy cheese spread or smoked mackerel. You take pot luck as to what the patron fancies dishing up that day.
Barbara

The perfect snack to pair with Lithuanian beer

Every bar in Vilnius has its own version of kepta duona. Photograph: Ana del Castillo/Getty Images

In Vilnius, we came across the ultimate food pairing for the fantastic beers available there in the form of kepta duona – deep-fried rye bread with garlic and cheese. Every bar has a slightly different version – raw, roast or confit garlic with cream, melted or simply grated cheese. A heavenly snack that could easily become your main meal.
Natalie

Vegan delights in the patisseries of Paris

Land & Monkeys patisserie. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

Being an unfortunate combination of a foodie and a vegan, I was prepared for a weekend of staring longingly into patisserie windows when heading to Paris earlier this summer. I was not prepared for the unbridled joy awaiting me at the Land & Monkeys boulangeries/patisseries scattered across the capital. It began with an outrageously creamy raspberry petit gateaux from its Montmartre branch, followed by the unbelievable fluff and flake of a croissant aux champignons in the Marais the next day. A parting madeleine for the Eurostar on our last day was the pièce de résistance.
Elinor

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Pasta with pears in Bologna

Tortellini with gorgonzola cheese and caramelised pears. Photograph: Caitlin McGraw

It was in Bologna, Italy’s self-proclaimed food capital, where I sampled the city’s signature dish of tortellini. We stumbled across Rosarose Bistrot, enticed by tables with red-checked cloths set in the middle of a cobblestone road. I enjoyed shells stuffed with tangy gorgonzola cheese and chunks of caramelised pears, a fruit I would usually avoid, but I placed trust in the regional delicacy. The fruit’s sweetness blended harmoniously with the strong cheese flavour; crispy and soft fried bread known as crescentine, was used to soak up the remaining sauce. It was only right to mark this culinary experience with a small tortellini keyring from a nearby gift shop, filled with various merchandise emblazoned with the pasta shell.
Caitlin

Catalonia’s ultimate slow-food festival

Catalan snails being cooked on a wood fire. Photograph: Nito 100/Getty Images/iStockphoto

Last year, I discovered the ultimate slow-food festival – the Snail Feast of Lleida (L’Aplec del Caragol), 100 miles west of Barcelona. Over a long weekend, there was music, dancing, cooking and feasting, all in celebration of the tiny mollusc. Entrance to the festival is free, and visitors can enjoy traditional snail dishes in tents, local restaurants or simply in the town squares. I had two helpings of snails a la gormanda, cooked in a sauce of spicy paprika and herbs. Since attending the festival, I have been treading carefully in my garden in case I harm what I discovered are delicate and delicious creatures.
Helen

Heavenly cakes in Slovenia

Bled cake is like a custard slice, but much better. Photograph: Varvara Kurakina/Alamy

Having travelled by train from Bristol down through the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, we reached our penultimate stop, Lake Bled. We’d been awed by the beautiful Swiss alpine scenery, but Bled took it up a notch. After a day of cycling from Bled to Lake Bohinj and back, we refuelled on the local delicacy, Bled cake, a sumptuously smooth set custard encased in the lightest of mille-feuille pastry and topped with whipped cream. Imagine an English custard slice, only a million times better. It was so welcome after a day in the Slovenian mountain air, we made it a holiday habit. A Bled cake a day until we had to come home!
Sara

Winning tip: delicious seafood soup in Spain

Sopa de pescado y marisco. Photograph: Gary Conner/Getty Images

Few meals linger in the memory like a proper Asturian sopa de pescado y marisco (seafood soup). After kayaking 10 miles down the Sella River, my reward in the town of Arriondas wasn’t a humble bowl of soup – it was a whole pan! Every flavour shone through in a broth packed with white fish, prawns and sweet crab claws, so extraordinarily rich it almost brought me to tears. I devoured it all, skipping the rest of the courses without regret. Years later in Gijón, history repeated itself. Even my soup-sceptical husband declared it the best he had ever tasted. In Asturias, fish soup isn’t a starter. It’s an obsession in a pot.
Oksana



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‘It feels like Italy with the volume turned down’: readers’ favourite (smaller) city breaks in Europe | City breaks

Renaissance art without the crowds in Italy

Ferrara in Emilia-Romagna won me over precisely because it feels like Italy with the volume turned down. I stayed in a small family-run hotel near Via delle Volte, where mornings began with quiet cobbled streets and the smell of fresh pastries. The Palazzo dei Diamanti was almost empty when I visited, giving me space to enjoy its Renaissance art without crowds. Evenings meant cycling past terracotta walls to tiny trattorias serving pumpkin cappellacci, a traditional pasta dish. It’s a city that lets you slow down, breathe and enjoy its beauty.
John

One of Germany’s greenest cities

The Great Garden at Herrenhausen. Photograph: DPA/AFP/Getty Images

Next to flashy Munich or cool Berlin, Hanover in northern Germany has a reputation of being boring. It is totally undeserved: there are world-class museums, such as the modern art gallery Sprengel, one of the best-preserved baroque gardens in Europe – the Great Garden at Herrenhausen – impressive Victorian era architecture, 640 hectares (1,680 acres) of city forest (the Eilenriede, nearly double the size of New York’s Central Park) and a large artificial lake just south of the centre that you can travel on with a bus ticket (or hire a boat). Explore the city and its surroundings on more than 600 miles of cycle paths, find independent shops in the well-heeled art nouveau district of List or the multicultural Linden, and relax in a deck chair on Ballhofplatz with tea and cake at the Teestübchen.
Ulrike

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The Algarve’s city of crafts

The market in Loulé was designed in a neogothic style. Photograph: Cristina Arias/Getty Images

Bursting with Portuguese charm, Loulé is 10 miles inland from Faro, capital of the Algarve. The small city has a rich history of preserving traditional crafts, supported by Loulé Criativo, a network of community-driven artisans that keeps alive and celebrates the identity of Loulé and the Algarve. It includes the House of Weaving (Casa da Empreita) and the Watchmakers (Oficina do Relojoeiro) and Stringed Instrument Workshop (Oficina de Cordofones). In these vibrant spaces – where visitors can interact with artisans – the city’s heritage is preserved and passed down through generations.
Sue

Unesco sites in northern France

The belfry of the Hotel de Ville at Place des Heros in Arras is a Unesco world heritage site. Photograph: Aliaksandr Antanovich/Getty Images

Arras, 35 minutes on the train from Lille, has two Unesco world heritage sites: the belfry of the Hotel de Ville and the Vauban Citadel. Exploring the Boves, a 10th-century network of tunnels which played roles in the first and second world wars, is an amazing experience. Above are two magnificent large squares in the Flemish style with a wide variety of alfresco cafes, restaurants and indie shops. Arras also holds one of the biggest Christmas markets north of Paris, noted for its amazing range of international gourmet foods.
Bryan Boese

Artistry and cake in Sweden’s beautiful south

Points of View, the 2017 sculptures by Tony Craig, outside the free Malmö Konsthall arts centre. Photograph: Danita Delimont/Alamy

Malmö is easily accessible (being connected by bridge to Copenhagen) and very walkable. We enjoyed the free Malmö Konsthall arts centre with contemporary exhibitions and also the skateboard artistry in the square outside. The Western Harbour contains architectural gems, such as the twisted skyscraper Turning Turso, restaurants and swimming piers in a former industrial area. The cafe Hollandia offered classic Swedish cakes and a lovely atmosphere. The Disgusting Food Museum next door was an interesting cultural experience showing food considered to be delicacies in some countries, not so much in others. A sign shows the number of people who have thrown up (visit Hollandia first)!
Elisabeth

Brilliant beach and seafood in Sardinia

The beautiful sandy beach of Poetto. Photograph: S Parente/Best of Travel/RM/Alamy

If you can tear yourself away from Poetto – surely one of the prettiest city beaches in Europe – you’ll find a lot more to love in Cagliari, capital of Sardinia. The huge indoor produce market is a riot of glistening seafood, local pecorino and sweet, nutty Sardinian treats. The town centre strides uphill from the port, with the elegant bulwark of Bastione St Remy delineating the ancient Castello district and serving up epic rooftop and coastal views. We missed the renowned archaeological museum, but that just gives us the perfect excuse to go back. Cagliari’s affordable seafood was a definite highlight, and Trattoria Lillicu’s chargrilled bream and calamari is another tempting reason to hurry back.
Martha

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Stained glass wonder in north-west Spain

The windows of the cathedral in the city of León are simply breathtaking. Photograph: Around the Corner Pics/Alamy

In León, colours grab your attention and take away words. León cathedral completely wrongfooted me. This city seems to be under the British tourist radar. I thought I’d already seen stained glass that was worthy of heaven – this was another level. Coupled with this was how visitors were reacting. Everyone was using the free audio guide. No one was just marching round and ticking off the sights. People were learning and savouring the experience. The humble ninth-century San Isidoro church, one of the most important romanesque buildings in Spain, is a refreshing contrast.
Deborah

Norway’s art nouveau gem

The art nouveau waterfront of Ålesund. Photograph: Rudi1976/Alamy

Ålesund is one of Norway’s most beautiful stops on an already spectacular western coast, despite having been devastated by fire in 1904. We reached the small, rebuilt art nouveau city via the breathtaking winding roads of the Trollstigen (the “Troll’s Path”) and had our first sighting from the top of the panoramic Aksla mountain viewpoint. Exactly 418 steps lead down to the historic centre where museums, cafes, restaurants and shops cluster around the Brosundet Canal in renovated warehouses and ornate buildings. Kayaking, a rib boat ride or a trip to the stunning Geirangerfjord? We couldn’t choose so did them all!
Teresa Stansby

The French city with a bit of everything

Saint-Malo’s tidal bathing pool. Photograph: Sasha Samardzija/Getty Images

I spent five days in Saint-Malo this August. It has everything: a beautiful walled city with lots of history, a variety of beaches offering shifts in light and character throughout the day, a modernist tidal pool with a high diving platform. The city has so much pride, and the art inspired by its famous landmarks make for great souvenirs. My favourite thing, though? The wonderful cider at La Passage (on Instagram) with my sister. And despite the heat everywhere else, the temperature never got above 25C.
Sophie Amos

Winning tip: a watery Dutch master of a city

Leiden in the Netherlands is full of canals, squares and cafes. Photograph: Peter Conner/Alamy

Leiden starts badly. The walk from the station is grim. Scruffy bars and vape shops. And then, suddenly, this watery Dutch gem reveals itself. Canals shoot off from a boat-filled basin, each one lined with grand brick mansions tapering to elegant finials under the sort of blue lowland skies that typify every good (and bad) Flemish painting. Dig deeper into its narrow traffic-free courtyards and squares with cafes spilling out light and chatter, much as they did when Rembrandt trudged to the school that still stands here, just round the corner from his first tutor’s studio. He’d find it mostly unchanged if he walked back. At Christmas, an ice rink spreads across the main canal, and the smell of warm wine, cloves and crepes hovers over the market stalls.
Bill Jones



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‘Lapped by the turquoise, crystal seas’: readers’ favourite unsung European islands | Europe holidays

Winning tip: a bird’s-eye view of wild Croatia

Giant griffon vultures glided parallel with my bus as it reached the highest point of Cres, the least populated of the four main islands in the Kvarner Gulf at the very north of the Croatian Adriatic. Covered in scrubby heath, olive groves and lavender, with small towns and villages on its coastline, its wildness is its appeal. Some, like Cres town, are unobtrusively set up for holidaymakers; in others local people just quietly get on with the life they’ve lived since the Venetians ruled here. All are lapped by the turquoise, crystal seas Croatia is known for.
Rhiannon

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Swimming off the Kerry coast

The view across Valentia island and beyond. Photograph: David Lyons/Alamy

Earlier this summer, my sister and I took a road trip along the south-west coast of Ireland. Our favourite place was Valentia island, a small land mass slightly off the more touristy Ring of Kerry, accessed via a bridge to the south and a ferry to the north. Head for Glanleam beach, an idyllic secluded cove surrounded by rich vegetation, which looks out on to the mountains of the Dingle peninsula, and take a dip in the Atlantic. Like us, you’ll probably want to return the next day and do it again.
Ellie

Going back in time in Greece

Apella beach on Karpathos is one of Europe’s finest. Photograph: Straga/Getty Images

Between Rhodes and Crete, Karpathos slips under the radar: no package crowds, just goats, wildflowers and twisting mountain roads that cling to the cliffs. The remote village of Olympos feels frozen in time, its older women still in traditional dress, drying pasta-like makarounes in the open air. Apella and Achata rank among Europe’s finest beaches, with turquoise water backed by unspoilt pine-covered mountainsides. Hotel Lefkorama provides a spectacular valley-to-sea view and a breakfast feast of fruit, jams, yoghurt and freshly baked bread. End the day at a family-run taverna, sipping local wine as the sun drops into the Aegean.
Stephen and Luca

A car-free outpost off Brittany

The waterfront of the car-free Île de Sein. Photograph: Crystite RF/Alamy

After an exciting 60-minute ferry crossing from Audierne, which includes the Pointe du Raz where currents off the Breton coast create weird wave formations that carry bemused seabirds in opposite directions even when they are only feet apart, you arrive on the Île de Sein, an island mostly only 1.5 metres above sea level. There are no cars and you can walk the entire island in a couple of hours. We loved the cowrie shell-rich beaches and plants forming carpets over pebbles. There is plenty of history here, an impressive lighthouse and a handful of stylish cafes (we had crepes in Chez Bruno). We felt very jealous of those people who had bags to stay the night.
Miles

Castles and cocktails in Italy

Lipari is one of the volcanic Aeolian islands. Photograph: AP Photo/Alamy

Jauntily perched off the north-east coast of Sicily, Lipari has an energy to it that perhaps comes from its volcanic origins. It is the largest of the Aeolian islands and great fun to visit. Lipari town hugs the water and is dominated, Game of Thrones-style, by a brooding castle. The cathedral and the archaeological museum, with its ancient statues and artefacts, are worth checking out. My family and I enjoyed taking part in the evening passeggiata, sipping island-themed cocktails – the worryingly named Volcano, for example – or eating delicious gelatos. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is lined with restaurants down to the picturesque port of Marina Corta. We swam on the nearby beaches of Papesca and Porticello – the rocky white seabed and clear waters create a magical shimmering sea that enticed us in hour after hour.
April

Lanzarote’s quiet, tiny neighbour

La Graciosa pictured from Mirador del Rio on Lanzarote. Photograph: Rusm/Getty Images

Most visitors to La Graciosa arrive from Lanzarote for the day, but if you stay overnight it becomes wonderfully peaceful. This tiny volcanic island feels different from the rest of the Canaries, with sandy, largely traffic-free streets in Caleta de Sebo. Swim or snorkel in the clear turquoise water, walk or cycle among the volcanic peaks and enjoy fresh fish in the village. You can take a boat around the coast or simply find a quiet stretch of sand. By evening, the island feels a world away from the busy resorts of Lanzarote – exactly what an island escape should be.
Susanna

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Puffin-watching in Pembrokeshire

Puffins off the coast of Skomer. Photograph: WL Davies/Getty Images

My absolute favourite island trip is seeing the puffins off the coast of Skomer in Pembrokeshire. Arriving at an unassuming pier (and getting on a somewhat unassuming boat), we were slightly unsure about whether the planned family outing would succeed or flop. But, in fact, Dr Samuel Johnson’s quote should be amended: a man who is tired of watching puffins is tired of life. A few hours spent on the Welsh coastline watching potentially the world’s most joyful bird can cure many an ill.
Rosie

Medieval city walls and fossils in the Baltic

Visby is a preserved medieval town on the island of Gotland. Photograph: Makasana Photo/Alamy

Gotland is a magical island in the Baltic. Get there via a three-hour ferry from Nynäshamn, south of Stockholm. The main town, Visby, is a perfectly preserved medieval dream complete with wraparound city walls, cobbled streets and no cars. Take the bus and ferry to the island of Fårö, hire bikes and cycle to the famous rauks – massive limestone columns by the sea. It’s also a fantastic place for fossil hunting as the whole island was once a coral reef.
Gaynor

Walk around meteorite craters in Estonia

A crater lake in Kaali. Photograph: Tomasz Wozniak/Alamy

On the Estonian island of Saaremaa, you can walk around meteorite craters. The nine Kaali craters were formed when meteorites crashed into the island about 3,500 years ago. The area later became a cult site, with archaeological finds suggesting animal offerings, and has been linked to old Finnic tales of the sun falling from the sky. The tiny Meteoritics Museum costs just €2 (£1.70). Cosmic drama on a very Estonian budget.
Elina

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