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‘A candelit spa, followed by an ice-cold plunge and a nightcap’: readers’ favourite European wellbeing breaks | Spa breaks

An art nouveau spa in Stockholm

Tucked away off a pretty shopping street in a beautiful art nouveau building is one of Stockholm’s oldest spas, Centralbadet where a day ticket costs from £23. As winter darkness descends, candles are lit around the pool and a quiet calm envelops you. Swimming by candlelight is a treat. Next a sauna followed by an ice-cold plunge. Afterwards a nightcap is in order so it’s a brisk walk in the cold crisp air to Fotografiska restaurant. It’s a great spot to savour one of Stockholm’s best views; the old town Gamla Stan and the twinkling lights on Lake Mälaren.
Sarah Rochfort

‘Completely timeless and immersive’: birdwatching in Norfolk

A misty evening on Salthouse marshes. Photograph: Ernie Janes/Alamy

Birdwatching at the Cley and Salthouse marshes in Cley-next-the-sea, Norfolk. The two bird hides are meditative and relaxed spaces. The windows open directly on to the pools of saltwater where many different species of birds obliviously wander around. It’s a place that is completely timeless and immersive. Your only job is to gaze out at the birds. It’s a very popular spot for birdwatching but the atmosphere is friendly and quiet. Someone even let us have a go with their binoculars. We particularly enjoyed watching a nest of baby swallows huddled in the corner of the hide. The marshes cover a wide area and are so important for biodiversity, providing an essential resting place for resident and migratory birds. You might even spot a spoonbill, which have returned to the UK from 2010 after being absent for hundreds of years. Well worth a wellness visit, even if you don’t really know anything about birds (like me).
Petra

Hampshire’s Scandi sauna huts

Hello Outdoors shepherd’s hut sauna. Photograph: Jason Ludlow/PR

A fresh ginger concoction, orange slices and a friendly sauna master greeted us at the Hello Outdoors shepherd’s hut sauna, which has a picture window overlooking the historic Lymington Sea Water Baths. The deep blue of the sky and water, Swedish sauna hats, the calming scent of our chosen essential oil, a soothing soundtrack and the option to ease the sauna heat with an exhilarating plunge in an ice-cold tub or more genial dip in the sun-warmed sea baths made for a very enjoyable and restorative couple of hours away from real life. We didn’t want to leave.
Claire Edwards

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Forest bathing in Croatia

The village of Radoboj. Photograph: Zvonimir Atletic/Alamy

For five days in Radoboj, northern Croatia, we forest-bathed beneath the trees, walked slowly, practised breathing and meditation and ate simple local food. No luxury spa, no expensive treatments – just nature and time. I wore an Oura smart ring throughout. My resting heart rate fell markedly and, by day four, the ring recorded four and a half hours of restorative time. More importantly, I felt profoundly different. It completely overturned what I thought wellness travel was. Sometimes the most restorative place isn’t a spa. It’s a forest.
Bex Hamilton

Bath time near Sofia, Bulgaria

The Bankya Central Mineral Baths. Photograph: PR

The natural mineral springs in Sofia mean bathhouses are a way of life. Bankya is on the outskirts of the city, so I travelled by bus to visit the Central Mineral Bath Bankya. This opulent bathhouse is owned by the Sofia municipality, meaning the atmosphere is a mix of the everyday council baths and extraordinary architecture from the early 20th century. You can visit from under €10 and, as well as the promised health benefits of the natural spring water, there is a thermal zone, a salt room, aromatherapy, saunas and steam rooms with an array of massages too.
Sarah Collings

The perfect spa and skiing combo in Poland

A winter landscape of Zakopane and the Tatra mountains. Photograph: Zoonar/Alamy

While skiing in Zakopane, Poland, we made a lot of use of Terma Bania, an incredible pool and spa centre right in the heart of the ski resort. There is something magical about watching the sun go down in blissfully warm water and surrounded by snow. There is an astonishing array of saunas, pools and steam rooms, surrounded by mountain views. We discovered there are also several thermal pool and spa complexes in the surrounding area, and ended up spending as much of our holiday in the spas as we did on the slopes!
Frances

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Simmer by the loch in Argyll

The sauna at West Coast Wellness. Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/The Guardian

The Lochside Sauna at West Coast Wellness (£17 for 2.5 hours) in Evanachan sits on the shore of Loch Fyne. Hidden away from the single track road, a 10-minute walk takes you to one of the most peaceful saunas in the UK. From the giant window, sit back and watch the water of the loch (keep an eye out for dolphins), slowly preparing yourself to make the short walk down and take a dip in between the heat. Alternatively there is a cold water plunge which if anything is colder than the loch! The centre also offers yoga and pilates sessions and there’s the delicious Inver restaurant just around the corner.
Lewis

Wild swimming and wildlife in North Yorkshire

Wild swimming at Pool Bridge Farm. Photograph: PR

Wild swimming at Pool Bridge Farm guarantees a wholesome retreat from the vibrant bustle of neighbouring York. Transformed from old fishing ponds, the sprawling site comprises four lakes and ample space for lounging and lunching. A revitalising dip is best paired with a stop in the sauna (£16.50), priming those brave enough for the raw, heady thrill of the next plunge. To top it off, head to nearby Wheldrake Ings nature reserve, one of North Yorkshire’s top wildlife destinations, especially for waterfowl. As the flood waters rise from autumn, so does the abundance of migratory birds. A serene natural scene to soothe the soul.
Fin

Sensory walk in the Black Forest, Germany

My two teenagers and I stumbled on a wellness experience for the mind, body and soul while we were wandering around the Black Forest near our holiday base of Freiburg last summer. A friendly German walker with a tree branch for a stick and a large husky for a companion told us to try a barefoot sensory trail at Park mit Allen Sinnen (park of all the senses) as we walked along together through the forest. So we followed his advice. It involved walking barefoot over grass, sand, woodchips, stone, mud and more while trying to tune into our five senses. We began by putting our hands into hollowed-out trees with our eyes closed to guess what objects were placed there. There were bright, colourful flowers, natural scents to imagine and huts to relax and sit in full of sounds and smells to immerse ourselves in with eyes closed. We repeated these walks for three days, heightening our contact with our own senses – and treating ourselves to rye bread and cheese sandwiches with forest fruits berry juice from simple forest cafe cabins as a reward.
Helen

Winning tip: County Donegal’s peerless sauna on the pier

A boat trip to the Sliabh Liag sea cliffs. Photograph: Christopher Hill /Scenic Ireland/Alamy

If you find yourself on the wild coast of south County Donegal, head to the Sliabh Liag Sauna at Teelin pier. After a day of hiking (and maybe one or two pints of porter the evening before), the small wood-fired sauna right on the pier was the perfect unwind. We followed it up by taking a sea dip in the bay just steps away. If you have plenty of time, combine the sauna with a nearby boat trip to the unforgettable Sliabh Liag sea cliffs towering 601 metres (1,972ft) above the sea.
Peter Henry

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I travelled all over the country on a €63 monthly rail pass: readers favourite holidays in Germany | Germany holidays

​Winning tip: History, buns and Italianate porticoes in Münster

In an often overlooked corner of Germany, near the Dutch border, Münster is an absolute gem. Covered porticos will convince you you’re in northern Italy, gothic churches will remind you you’re in Mitteleuropa and the buns from Zeit für Brot will insist you’re in heaven. Nature-lovers can take in the Botanical Gardens and relax by the Münstersche Aa river. Those of a historical bent can peek into the room where the Treaty of Westphalia was signed in 1648 and mull the report card of nation states in the nearly 400 years since. But really, it’s a great place just to drop-anchor and lose a few days.
Jeremy

Germany’s highest railway bridge, near Düsseldorf

Photograph: Hackenberg-Photo-Cologne/Alamy

In the verdant countryside near Düsseldorf, the 129-year-old Müngsten Bridge, the country’s highest railway bridge, rises 107 metres above the River Wupper. The impressive iron and steel structure is billed as Germany’s answer to the Eiffel Tower (yes, really!) and if you’ve got a head for heights, you can don a harness and make the exhilarating climb to the highest point. You’ll be rewarded with incredible views across the valley, especially if you steel yourself (!) for the nerve-racking walk across the narrow beam that spans the top of the bridge. Eat your heart out, Sydney Harbour Bridge.
Bex

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A wild North Sea island made for cycling

The North Sea island of Sylt. Photograph: Westend61 /Alamy

Sylt is more than a North Sea island to us. My German grandmother met my British army grandfather, and Sylt became my mother’s childhood island. It feels made for cycling, with peaceful paths winding between grassy dunes, sweeping beaches and little villages. Spend the day riding, watching the surfers and eating warm Nutella crepes by the sea, before settling into a traditional hooded Strandkorb (hooded beach chair) to listen to the waves. Bike hire costs €8-€10 per day. It is wild, windswept and magical, somewhere our family history becomes real every time we return.
Fay

Tour the country for a month for €63

Photograph: Imago/Alamy

Get the Deutschlandticket! An entire month of public transport for €63 – buses, trains, trams, ferries … The only thing that isn’t included is faster long-distance trains, but you can figure out how to get from A to B using the Deutsche Bahn website, which has a special “Deutschlandticket only” filter; the need to change trains means you’ll end up discovering places you wouldn’t otherwise visit. It’s worth it just for a week, or, if you do want to travel long distances quickly, just for inner-city transport. Use the German public transport app Mopla to buy one at any time.
Joseph

Cologne’s world-class cocktails bars

Cologne’s famous cathedral dominates the skyline and tops most travel itineraries. But having visited for a day on a previous trip, we returned for a city break with one thing in mind: cocktails. The mixology scene here is world-class. The jewel in the crown is Seiberts (pictured), which often and rightly features in lists of the world’s best bars, but Little Link, Woods and Ona Mor all contend and offer different vibes. While not sat at the bar, you’ll find excellent 20th-century art, street art and a lifesized Milka cow at the chocolate museum.
John

Kite flying in a vast former airfield in Berlin

Tempelhofer Feld. Photograph: Nawintar Hengsrisuk/Alamy

On a warm autumn afternoon in Berlin, a friend and I rented classic Dutch bikes to explore the city. As the golden hour approached we discovered Tempelhofer Feld. Used as an airfield during a darker era, today it’s a vast recreational green space. Biking on the disused runway was enjoyably bizarre. Berliners and visitors alike were picnicking, kite flying, inline skating, lolling about on bales of hay, skateboarding, tightrope walking, birding … you name it. It is also an important site for rare flora and fauna and grazing animals.
Sarah

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An ebike adventure through the Black Forest

Photograph: Tanja Voigt/Alamy

Ebikes are the perfect way to explore the beauty and vastness of the Black Forest. Powering up gravel tracks that would be impossible on a push bike was so fun and a real hit with the teenager. Setting off from the astonishingly well preserved town of Gengenbach, we headed to the viewpoint at Moosturm observation tower and the Lothar Monument (pictured), where we were rewarded with a glorious 360-degree view of hills patterned with colour and wisps of cloud. On the way down it seemed churlish not to stop at the Naturfreundehaus Kornebene mountain hut and restaurant for possibly the best sausages of my life. A thoroughly deserved reward: ebiking counts as exercise, right?
Alex

500 years of architecture in Görlitz

Photograph: Albazil/Alamy

Görlitz, near the Polish border, merited more than just the day trip I had planned from Dresden so I returned later in my holiday to explore its delights. It’s chock-a-block with charming, colourful buildings, making it beloved of German and international film-makers. Strolling through the cobbled streets of the old town is like leafing through a lavish picture book of 500 years of German architecture, from gothic through the renaissance to art nouveau – don’t miss St Peter’s Church. Eat hearty Silesian sausages at beer houses and if you feel like a swim head out by bus to Lake Berzdorf, with views of the mountains from the sandy beach – or even the middle of the lake where I ventured to.
April

Take the family car around a racing circuit in Nürburg

Photograph: Xavier Bonilla/Getty Images

When my son turned 16 we drove to Munich so he could buy his first beer legally. Breaking up the journey we stopped overnight near the Nürburgring racetrack, to take the family estate car around the Nordschleife circuit. You turn up, pay €30-€35, and get in the queue. We were overtaken by everything apart from a coach full of Italian tourists and an ice cream van.
Tim

A spectacle of water in Kassel

Photograph: DPA /Alamy

The unexpected highlight of our German road trip was Kassel’s extraordinary Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe, a Unesco world heritage site. On water feature days, park below Wilhelmshöhe Palace (€8.50 per car, including bus travel for up to seven), ride to the Hercules monument, then follow the water downhill on foot. The free spectacle sends 750,000 litres tumbling without pumps through baroque cascades, waterfalls and a Roman-style ruined aqueduct, culminating in a soaring 52 metre fountain. Following the rushing water from one dramatic stage to the next was an adventure, and after the 2.3km descent, your car is waiting at the bottom.
Mary

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‘Everything is golden’: readers’ tips for a great autumn day out in the UK | United Kingdom holidays

Gambling on sunshine at Loch Lomond

I love Loch Lomond in autumn. I’d start with a walk around Balmaha village and a stretch of the West Highland Way, pretending I’m there for the scenery rather than earning the right to eat something massive afterwards. Autumn is when it looks best: orange hills, cold air, dramatic clouds and the constant Scottish gamble of whether you’ll get sunshine, sideways rain, or both within 10 minutes. I finish, if I’m not driving, with a wee dram to properly round things off.
Pete

Cornwall’s wild autumn seas

The coastal path from Godrevy. Photograph: Peter Lane/Alamy

The rough beauty of Cornwall’s sea views appeals to me. A great autumn day involves walking along the staggered cliff edges between Godrevy and Portreath. The isolated nature of the coastal paths makes me feel as if the sea is singing just for me, while below the waves go wild, waiting to be admired. On this walk, you will be rewarded with the most breathtaking views, lone benches and burnt orange sunsets.
Oliwia

A hydro-powered house in Northumberland

Cragside was a technological marvel of the 19th century, with hydroelectric power and hydraulic gadgets. Photograph: Jonathan Ayres/Alamy

When I first visited the National Trust’s Cragside in Northumberland, a staff member at the entrance made the bold claim that it was “the best place in England”. In autumn you can really see their point. The estate’s 1,000 acres are covered with a huge variety of trees that transform the landscape into a mixture of reds, oranges and deep greens, contrasting perfectly with the often misty Northumberland weather. It’s a perfect autumn day trip for woodland walks, possibly stopping for a picnic at one of the many lakes or gardens, and visiting the extraordinary hydro-powered Victorian house with its pioneering gadgets.
Everly

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– back sections make it manageable without losing the drama.
Bonita Philp

Deep in the forest in the Scottish Borders

Lichen on fir trees in the Glentress Forest. Photograph: Tom Richardson Scotland/Alamy

Glentress Forest in the Scottish Borders is hard to beat on a crisp autumn day. Start with a walk or mountain-bike ride through the forest, when the trails are surrounded by copper, red and gold, and climb high enough for brilliant views across the Tweed valley. Afterwards, warm up with coffee and something sweet at the cafe before heading into nearby Peebles for a wander along the river and around its independent shops. It feels properly remote despite being less than an hour from Edinburgh. And, whether you’re cycling or walking, autumn is when the forest is at its most spectacular.
Remi Lapeyre

Birmingham’s secret oasis

Winterbourne Gardens. Photograph: Michael Kemp/Alamy

Winterbourne House and Garden at Birmingham University is a wonderful little oasis in Edgbaston, just outside the city centre. A beautiful Arts and Crafts style house, set in stunning gardens, it is a lovely place for a wander and is especially beautiful on a sunny day in early autumn when everything is golden. See herons at the reservoir, talk to friendly robins by the walled garden and browse the bookshop. Have coffee there and then head into nearby Harborne for lunch or dinner.
Rachel

Rivers and ruins in a Lancashire valley

The River Roddlesworth near Darwen. Photograph: Walker/Alamy

Rocky Brook is the name given by locals to the River Roddlesworth, which flows through a wonderful wooded valley at the edge of the West Pennine Moors. The woodland, planted by Liverpool Corporation Waterworks, provides plenty of autumn colour. A network of paths allows exploration of the woods and the ruins of Hollinshead Hall and well house. There’s a public car park, cafe and pub (the Royal Arms) at Ryal Fold, and for those who walk north-west through the woods there’s also the Hare & Hounds at Abbey Village. Four buses a day run from Blackburn to the Royal.
Graham Dean

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Twisted oaks and fungi in the Peak District

Sessile oaks in Padley Gorge. Photograph: Septemberlegs/Getty Images

The Longshaw estate in the Peak District is perfect for an autumn stroll. Both Oaks Wood and Bolehill Quarry have a huge variety of fungi in their hidden depths. The twisted oak trees in Padley Gorge look at their most spectacular on early autumn misty mornings. It’s easy to explore pathways on the estate with the friendly free social walk every Wednesday. Finish a wonderful day with a treat in the cafe.
Katharine

A lime tree avenue in Nottinghamshire

Clumber Park’s avenue of trees is one of the longest in Europe. Photograph: Eye35 Pix/Alamy

Clumber Park is a must-visit at this time of year. The National Trust property features peaceful woodlands with golden leaf carpets, crisp lakeside views and an ornamental bridge. You’ll want to keep your camera handy as you enter a double tree avenue of 1,296 limes stretching three miles (one of the longest in Europe), which provides a gorgeous golden canopy. The walled kitchen garden is a favourite with its massive apple collection and seasonal displays. The apple juice I’ve tried here is some of the best I’ve tasted.
Asma

A Roman autumn at Hadrian’s Wall

Late autumn at Steel Rigg. Photograph: Donaleen Shiell/Alamy

My perfect autumn day is walking Hadrian’s Wall from Steel Rigg, when the moorland turns copper and gold and every climb rewards you with another enormous Northumberland view. Pack a flask, sturdy boots and something waterproof – the weather changes its mind even faster than I do. You only pay for parking, and shorter out- and

Winning tip: Steaming through north Wales

The Llangollen Railway. Photograph: Paul Weston/Alamy

My perfect autumn day out is a trip on the Llangollen Railway in north Wales. There’s something magical about travelling through the Dee valley on a steam train when the leaves have turned orange and gold. We start in Llangollen, grab something warm to drink, then climb aboard for the journey alongside the River Dee, watching the autumn scenery through the window. Afterwards, we wander around Llangollen, exploring the little shops. It’s simple, nostalgic and feels like autumn properly arriving – especially when you hear the steam train whistle through the valley.
Chelsea

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‘Gateways to heaven’: readers’ favourite trips in Europe’s mountains | Travel

All the fun of the funicular in Switzerland

No doubt your first thought on hearing the words “double-decker” is of a bus. But in the Swiss village of Stans, an old wooden funicular carriage ascends to the station, where a double-decker cable car awaits. Inside, a spiral staircase leads you to an open upper viewing deck. At the summit, the views back to Lucerne are superb, and there are alpine marmots to spot too. There was a wedding ceremony going on at the summit on our trip!
Martin

Liechtenstein’s Route 66

Looking across the Three Sisters. Photograph: GanzTwins/Getty Images

Steinbock, marmot and elderflower jam are in abundance on Liechtenstein’s Route 66 track – a  multi-day hike that is popular with locals, but little known to others. The route traverses the Drei Schwestern (the Three Sisters), where you’ll experience white knuckles and lush valley views. After an easy 5km hike, you land at the first mountain hut, where a succulent homemade three-course dinner awaits you. Befriend the other walkers over a game of cards, as golden hour lights up the mountains.
Inez

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Picturesque French Pyrenees

Luz Saint Sauveur is surrounded by tall peaks. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

Luz Saint Sauveur in the French Pyrenees is the gateway to heaven. Whether it be by bike, car, motorbike or on foot, stunning surroundings, wildlife-a-plenty and quaint French shops await you at this picturesque market town. Eat the local saucisson, drink the jurançon white wine, marvel at the blue skies in the shadows of the legendary Tour de France Cols, jump in canyons and be merry with the surroundings. Simply beautiful and fun for all ages.
Will

High on the hog in Donegal

Muckish is a flat-topped mountain to the north of Glenveagh national park. Photograph: Steven Granville/Getty Images

For mountain scenery without Alpine crowds, head to north-west Donegal. Errigal gets the attention, but don’t overlook flat-topped Muckish, whose name comes from the Irish for “pig’s back”. Drive the small roads around the Poisoned Glen and through Glenveagh national park, where each bend reveals another reason to stop. Allow far longer than the satnav suggests: our best moments came from pulling over for an unexpected view rather than racing between sights. Pack walking shoes and a picnic, then reward yourself afterwards in a cosy pub. Here, a mountain day can include Atlantic beaches and a well-earned pint.
Niamh Kerr

The quiet side of Italy’s Dolomites

Alpine hut Rifugio Agostini was the highlight of Ben Bryant’s trip. Photograph: Johannes 86/Getty Images

The Brenta Dolomites seem to go strangely unnoticed, while the main Dolomites heave with Instagrammers. We based ourselves in Pinzolo, an alpine town an hour north of Lake Garda, then took the lift from Madonna di Campiglio for a three-day hut-to-hut trek, tackling two via ferrata routes across knife-edge ridges and limestone spires. Rifugio Agostini was the highlight: a warm welcome and hearty mountain food after a hard day’s climbing, with jagged peaks filling every window. We descended into the town of Molveno for a well-earned aperitivo by the lake.
Ben Bryant

A spectacular climb in Kosovo

The Lumbardhi River in Prizren. Photograph: Engin Korkmaz/Alamy

After exploring Kosovo’s historic monasteries and wartime memorials, we escaped to the Sharr mountains national park, a 40-minute drive south of Prizren. The road winds through the spectacular Zhupa valley and follows the bubbling Lumbardhi river through its steep-sided gorge. At Prevallë, we left the car and began what turned out to be a strenuous climb over rocky paths and grassy slopes. We kept expecting the summit to appear, but every turn revealed another, until we finally reached our destination and were met with spectacular mountain views. Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves at Hotel Krojet with coffee and a reviving glass of raki.
Roy Messenger

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Peaceful paths above Lake Como

The Via dei Monti Lariani passes close to Mount Bregagno.
Photograph: Mauritius/Alamy

This spring, my partner and I hiked the Via dei Monti Lariani, a 78-mile (125km) trail through the mountains on the western shore of Lake Como between Cernobbio and Sorico. Skirting the border between Italy and the Swiss canton of Ticino, the route passes through mountain pastures with views towards the Alps, and remote villages shaped by a history of cross-border smuggling. The accommodation is a highlight, ranging from Alpine rifugios to agriturismi, where we sampled regional specialities, including polenta uncia, polenta with local cheese and butter, and pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta with cabbage and potatoes. Quiet trails, excellent food and complex history made it an especially rewarding route.
Ross Cameron

Grand canyons of the Spanish Pyrenees

Santa Engràcia, high in the Pyrenees. Photograph: Chris Craggs/Alamy

This summer my family and I stayed at Fox House in the tiny village of Santa Engràcia in the Tremp valley, in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. Perched on a cliff edge, the beautifully renovated guest house has panoramic views, eclectic art and a warm homely feel. Laura and Carl were excellent hosts, creating a relaxed atmosphere and serving delicious evening meals. Days were a mix of poolside downtime and outdoor adventure, including rafting, mountain biking, canyon kayaking and swimming in crystal blue lakes.
Maria

Campsite with a view in Austria

Camping Grubhof is on the Saalach River. Photograph: APA/Alamy

Camping Grubhof, in the small town of Lofer between Salzburg and Zell am See, is simply beautiful. It’s an immaculate campsite, surrounded by mountains. Lofer (and the campsite) have direct access to a huge network of cycle trails as well as to the beautiful village swimming pool (free with the local access pass). Walking high in the mountains, surrounded by cows with bells is simply beautiful. Come the afternoon, there’s time for an apple strudel at a mountain hut and a glass of radler low alcohol beer. There is a camping meadow where you can pitch a tent and cabins to rent, as well as the best shower blocks I’ve come across.
Mark

Winning tip: Stars, sunsets and glaciers in Italy

Rifugio Bertone has commanding views of surrounding peaks. Photograph: Universal Images Group/Getty Images

The views over Mont Blanc from Rifugio Bertone in Italy are incredible, but it’s the whole experience that makes it special – great food, proper mountain atmosphere, and the Balconata Val Ferret has some of the best walking in the area. It’s also near Courmayeur, which is a lovely town. Arrive for sunset, watch the light move across the glaciers, then look up at the stars as Mont Blanc disappears into the darkness. A brilliant place to eat, walk, breathe and simply take in the mountains. And it’s very affordable.
Eddie Campbell

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