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‘We found a charming alternative to touristy Bath’: readers’ favourite UK trips | United Kingdom holidays

A magnificent medieval cathedral in Somerset

“So this is where Officer Nick Angel [Simon Pegg] chased that swan.” As a fan of Hot Fuzz, I was excited to explore the cathedral city of Wells in Somerset, where much of the film was shot. This charming, compact and walkable city is awash with medieval architecture and magnificent buildings, such as the gothic cathedral, with one of the oldest working clocks in the UK (late 14th century) and the Bishop’s Palace and Gardens. Within easy reach of the Mendip Hills, Cheddar Gorge and the Wookey Hole Caves, Wells makes for a low-key alternative to tourist-soaked Bath.
Alison

Wild camping in the west Highlands

Sanna Bay. Photograph: Jox

The Ardnamurchan peninsula, which includes the most westerly point in mainland Britain at Corrachadh Mòr, is stunning. With my partner, I spent a night wild camping by the shell-sand beach at Sanna Bay, surrounded by the machair grassland and wildflowers. It was absolutely stunning. We walked to Ardnamurchan lighthouse, spotted some dolphins, and swam in the sea in cold but crystal clear waters. The simplicity of the trip and not having to check in at any accommodation was a plus. I would recommend it to everybody.
Jox

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Cinematic light and seabirds in East Lothian

A view of Bass Rock from North Berwick. Photograph: Westend61/Getty Images

North Berwick in East Lothian always feels like a proper holiday without needing a passport. Take the early train, walk straight down to the beach, then continue past the harbour towards the Scottish Seabird Centre, where the light over the Firth of Forth changes by the minute. If the tide is out, the views are cinematic with the sand stretching so wide. On clear early evenings Bass Rock turns gold and you wonder how somewhere so close to Edinburgh can still feel quietly remote.
Michelle

Rock-pooling and picnics in Devon

The beach at Beer. Photograph: Guy Edwardes/Alamy

I visited Beer in east Devon last summer with three friends, all of us women in our 40s, and our six children aged between four and 11. It couldn’t have been a better choice. We stayed at the lovely large YHA hostel, which was relaxed, welcoming and ideal for families. The kids were charmed by the stream running through the village and spent hours rock-pooling on the beach, discovering tiny crabs and sea anemones. We also enjoyed the clifftop walk to Seaton with its incredible views. Don’t miss Woozie’s Deli for fresh treats – perfect for picnics by the sea.
Tara

A cycling tour of the Northumberland coast

Dunstanburgh Castle. Photograph: Ashley Cooper/Getty Images

We cycled the Northumberland coast from Newcastle to Berwick over four days. We visited Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh, two of the most impressive castles in the country, the mining museum at Woodhorn and the RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh, and swam from huge, empty beaches. Cycling over the causeway to Lindisfarne was the highlight, an incredible place to visit and awesome watching the road disappear under the sea (after we’d made it back to the mainland).
Ian

Loch Èireasort on Lewis. Photograph: Nagelestock.com/Alamy

Ravenspoint community hostel on Loch Èireasort, south of Stornoway and home to nesting sea eagles and sea otters, feels remote even by Outer Hebridean standards. I shared the hostel kitchen with a father and daughter cycling the Hebridean Way, and a psychiatrist who seemed genuinely quite unsettled by the vastness of the landscape stretching all around. The hostel has a rich history – it is owned by the Co-Chomunn na Pairc, one of the original community co-operatives established in the 1970s, and the profits from it, the shop and tea rooms all go back into keeping vital services open for visitors and locals alike year-round.
Eleanor

Happy days in West Yorkshire’s Happy Valley

Hebden Bridge. Photograph: Kelvin Jay/Getty Images

Sharing my obsession with Happy Valley, my teenage son agreed to a long weekend in Hebden Bridge. Armed with a list of filming locations, we scouted around Sowerby Bridge and Hebden, getting a buzz from the scenes we recognised. We climbed up to Heptonstall to visit Sylvia Plath’s grave, caught a film at the independent Picture House, and hiked along the river and on to the moors beyond Hardcastle Crags. An early morning run along the canal and the best pizza in town topped it off.
Lucy

Cliffs, castles and chips in Ayrshire

Culzean Castle. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy

Ayrshire is beautiful, bucolic, full of family-friendly activities and often overlooked by Munro-baggers heading north to the Highlands. It has excellent local produce, coastal splendour and bountiful historic attractions. Start at Dumfries House with its marvellous gardens, enormous treetop adventure area and interactive water play (much of it free!). Visit the ruins of clifftop Dunure Castle, then stroll along the sandy Croy Bay to Culzean Castle, with its own gardens, play area and spectacular views of Arran and Ailsa Craig. Then pootle up to the Coo Shed for fab local ice-creams, before rounding off your day with some outstanding fish and chips from the Wee Hurrie on Troon harbour.
Dan Ashman

A village idyll in Snowdonia

Fairy Falls near Trefriw. Photograph: Alamy

My wife and I went for a weekend break in Trefriw on the River Crafnant in north Wales. It’s a peaceful village with lively pubs. We stayed at the Fairy Falls hotel, a perfect base for exploring the surrounding river and mountain walks, and for viewing the cascades.
Seamus

Winning tip: Hadrian’s Wall by bus and train

Milecastle 39 on Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland. Photograph: Stock Solutions/Getty Images

Exploring the Hadrian’s Wall area stands out for us among our UK trips, not only for the places we visited but also because we travelled by train, bus and on foot. This meant the holiday began once we’d boarded the first train, not just once we’d arrived at our accommodation. We stayed at the Sill youth hostel, arriving there using the AD122 bus from Hexham station. This bus stops at several Roman sites between Hexham and Haltwhistle – we used it to visit Housesteads, “Britain’s most complete Roman fort”. Another highlight was the Vindolanda fort and museum around a mile and a half from the Sill.
Sharon Pinner

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‘No reservations, no waiter, just great sea views, food and drink’: readers’ favourite beach bars in Europe | Beach holidays

Roll with the lobsters near Derek Jarman’s house in Dungeness, Kent

Dungeness is a place of wild beauty, a stretch of coast that knows fierce winds. Artist and gardener Derek Jarman’s cottage roof blew off at least once and the wind regularly wreaked havoc with his planting. Stubborn plants survive on this vast shingle beach and just as stubborn is the Snack Shack, with its opening times dependent on the weather, as its website says. On fair weather days it’s an ideal place to have lunch as you explore the peninsula. If you’re in luck they will not have run out of lobster rolls among other freshly caught seafood delights. Paying homage to Jarman and eating outdoors here replenishes the soul.
Charlotte

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Captain’s tables on the Brittany coast

Captain Marée, a 30-minute cycle from Vannes in Brittany, is a collection of mismatched tables and chairs beside two shacks on a shellfish farm on the Gulf of Morbihan. Here, you’ll find a simple menu featuring fresh oysters and mussels, all served by welcoming staff. The place offers wonderful views of the gulf and if you are really into your seafood, few places could offer better quality or a friendlier atmosphere.
Kelvin Atkins

Watch for seals on the Isle of Arran

Cladach Beach House is tucked away at the end of the strand in Brodick, on Arran. Outdoor cocktails (with a large dinosaur sculpture) if its sunny, a cosy fire inside the shack by the big windows if the weather closes in. It’s an adorable mix of homemade and glamorous as you watch for seals.
Clara

Select your fish from the daily catch near Narbonne, France

La Perle Gruissanaise. Photograph: Gautier Stephane/Alamy

La Perle Gruissanaise lies at the end of the reclaimed wild end of Chalets beach not far from Narbonne in the south of France. Select your fish from the daily catch, and it’ll be expertly cooked by the chefs along with a selection of homemade sides. Then, grab a carafe of local chilled wine and take your seat on the wooden benches. There’s no table service and no reservations, just great food and drink – and uninterrupted views over the Mediterranean to the horizon. Alternatively, they’ll put together a fantastic platter to take away and enjoy at home or on the beach.
Doug

A thatched classic in County Sligo, Ireland

Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Photograph: PR

The west of Ireland is a rugged place full of nooks and crannies. In one of them is the Beach Bar at Aughris head, Templeboy. Follow the handmade signs that direct you off the main N59 Sligo road. Eventually, the road peters out at the curving beach overlooked by the thatched Beach Bar. There you can enjoy a bowl of chowder, local seafood and meaty classics, alongside friendly locals. On a fine day, you can sit outside and take in the majestic view across the sea to Sligo and beyond.
Tony Moon

Watch the sunset over the Libyan Sea in Crete

Matala Beach at dusk. Photograph: Westend61 GmbH/Alamy

Perched above Matala’s legendary bay in southern Crete, Petra & Votsalo (on Facebook) is a gorgeous beachside taverna. Harris, the owner, greets everyone like family and sets an easy, unhurried tone. Two courses and a cold beer cost about €20. The terrace glows as the sun sets into the Libyan Sea. Order a starter of creamy, flaky tiropita cheese pastries followed by rich, tender stifado and an ice-cold Mythos. Finish with complimentary family-produced raki as waves roll in and light fades over the bay.
James Merriman

Cocktails in a medieval tower on the Adriatic in Croatia

Photograph: Matyas Rehak/Alamy

Massimo cocktail bar (on Instagram) is the place to experience sunset on Korčula, Croatia. Space is limited so get there early. And if you don’t like heights or struggle with steep ladders, give it a miss! Your drinks will arrive by pulley from the bar below and, as you sit at your table on top of the medieval tower, you can see for miles across the sea to the neighbouring islands. The margaritas are highly recommended but remember you have to get back down the same way, so best to stick to one or two.
Gill

A beach bar for all seasons near Lisbon

Photograph: Volodymyr Goinyk/Alamy

The Bar do Guincho in Cascais near Lisbon is that rare thing, a beach bar for all seasons. It’s perfectly positioned for stunning Atlantic views and combines a rustic, welcoming vibe with a lively atmosphere. I have enjoyed the sunshine and a cocktail on the terrace there after lazing on the beach, but I’ve also cozied up by its blazing log fire in autumn with a warming bowl of fish soup. It’s an easy day trip from Lisbon, too – there are trains every 30 minutes from Cais do Sodré and the journey takes 40 minutes. Then you get the regular No 15 bus or a taxi to beautiful Praia do Guincho, which takes about 20 minutes.
Nicoletta

Seafood shack on the Black Sea, Bulgaria

Where Bulgaria meets Turkey on the Black Sea, you’ll find the sleepy resort of Sinemorets. The place has an eccentric feel, but nowhere more so than the seafood shack Taliana (on Instagram), which sits right on the rugged coastline. Mussels are a must-try, but everything is as fresh as you’d expect from the location – and incredible value. After driving halfway across the country on a slightly ill-advised trek, we arrived a little desperate, bedraggled and starved so it was great to receive a warm welcome and probably the tastiest meal of our whole trip.
Tim Alderson

Winning tip: Puglia perfection, near Gallipoli, Italy

Lido Conchiglie. Photograph: Giuseppe Colasanto/Alamy

Visible from the wide sandy beach at Lido Conchiglie, near Gallipoli in Puglia, Scapricciatiello (on Facebook) perches on a rocky spur reaching out into the sea. With its plastic chairs and paper tablecloths (which double as menus), it could certainly never be accused of being all style over substance. Yet what it offers instead is hard to beat: delicious, fresh local seafood, enjoyed beside turquoise waters. Adventurous diners can follow local tradition and sample the cozze crude (raw mussels), while other choices include spaghetti with mussels or clams, followed by fritto misto or grilled swordfish.
Katharine



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Cool bars and friendly vibes: readers’ favourite city neighbourhoods in Europe | Europe holidays

An ideal space for a flaneur in Berlin

When friends came to visit while I was studying in Berlin or I wanted to flaneur through the city, I would go to Maybachufer, a neighbourhood in the Neukölln district. Wander from U-Bahn station Kottbusser Tor in the direction of the Landwehrkanal and peruse the multicultural market taking place Tuesdays and Fridays. You can also attempt to haggle in your best German at the fortnightly Sunday flea market. Useful phrase: das ist zu teuer für mich (that’s too expensive for me). Stop for a bite to eat (or an Aperol spritz) alfresco at buzzing La Maison and spend the afternoon sat by the canal next to the Admiralbrücke historic wrought iron bridge, or at the nearby independent cinema Moviemento, which shows a wide variety of English-subtitled films. End the day with a döner kebap from one of the many takeaways or restaurants nearby and a trip to one (or more) of the local bars: Multilayerladen for its laid-back, homely aesthetic or Soulcat Music Bar for 50s and 60s music on vinyl.
Kitty

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A Glaswegian neighbourhood ‘packed with hidden gems’

Albert Bridge and the Gorbals waterfront. Photograph: Allan Wright/Alamy

The Gorbals is an often overlooked neighbourhood in Glasgow but has a fascinating history and is packed with hidden gems. The Southern Necropolis is a must visit – it’s lovingly preserved by dedicated volunteers and celebrates the lives of ordinary local people alongside the likes of celebrated 19th-century architect Alexander “Greek” Thompson. No two streets are the same, with many buildings incorporating artwork such as The Gatekeeper, one of the UK’s few permanent suspended public sculptures, as well as murals of local legends and award-winning architecture. Keep your eyes peeled for seals (and even otters) by the river, before heading to the Pig and Whistle’s hidden beer garden. End the day at the iconic Citizens theatre, where a beautiful Victorian auditorium and the UK’s oldest surviving stage equipment have been restored, showcasing the biggest names in comedy and theatre alongside community productions. One of the best ways to see the neighbourhood is to take a Women of the Gorbals Heritage walk.
Esther

Head out of Porto to the seaside

Foz do Douro in Portugal. Photograph: Wirestock/Alamy

To get to Foz do Douro from Porto it’s a quick journey on a tram from the riverside. The tram follows the beautiful River Douro, and you end up at the delightful seafront. There are sandy beaches, a 17th-century fort and a pleasant, shaded park. You can enjoy a stroll out to a picture-book lighthouse that sticks out into the Atlantic too. It is so close to the city, but allows you to melt into an entirely distinct, relaxed world.
Alexander

A peaceful corner of Rome

The Coppedè district of Rome is famous for its curious fusion of architectural styles. Photograph: Alexander Langauer/Alamy

My favourite discovery in Rome lay just beyond the historical centre in the Coppedè district. Named after its architect, Gino Coppedè, who built it between about 1915 and 1927, the area is a curious fusion of styles, all blended in a way that feels almost Gaudí-esque. It’s easily reached by tram or bus, and it really lends itself well to slow exploration. Spend a morning wandering its quiet streets, admiring whimsical houses, ornate palazzos and fountains, before arriving at the beautiful Piazza Mincio. It’s a peaceful corner hiding right under our noses.
Michael

Slovenian counterculture in Ljubljana

Metelkova Mesto art centre in Ljubljana. Photograph: Michalis Ppalis/Editorial/Alamy

Nestled just north of Ljubljana’s postcard-pretty centre, Metelkova, a former military barracks, has found a new lease of life as the heart of Slovenian street art and counterculture. By day, you can wander past graffiti-clad buildings, artists’ studios and small galleries; by night, explore quirky bars and a welcoming, laid-back crowd. The antithesis of the rest of Slovenia’s more polished, traditionally beautiful capital, it’s an ideal place to people watch and experience the raw, vibrant soul of the underground culture. It’s exactly the sort of place you stumble into by mistake and end up staying all afternoon.
Michael Kuipers

Grand villas and nostalgia in Zagreb

A street in Gornji Grad, Zagreb. Photograph: Todamo/Alamy

I lived close to the Tuškanac neighbourhood while studying in Zagreb. Slip off a street called Ilica – the artery running east to west – and you’re suddenly on quiet, leafy slopes between Britanski trg (British Square) and Gornji Grad (Upper Town), oddly calm for somewhere so close to the centre. Grand villas sit alongside crumbling houses, half-hidden in the trees. Sundays meant a wander round Britanski trg – antiques, trinkets, and a sense of Jugonostalgia (nostalgia for Yugoslavia) I have absolutely no real claim to. Or a mali macchiato before a long walk uphill, passing Kino Tuškanac and its outdoor cinema.
Louis Tomlinson

Haarlem shuttle

De Adriaan windmill in Haarlem. Photograph: Wiskerke/Alamy

Although it may be a prosaic observation, the public transport in the Netherlands really is fantastic. That’s how we found ourselves taking a 15-minute train ride to Haarlem while on a short break in Amsterdam. The centuries-old cobblestone streets, picture perfect canals and cafe-ringed squares were as lovely as you’d expect but my highlight was a tour of De Adriaan windmill. Run by enthusiasts, and half the price of some of the big-hitting museums, the guide gave a condensed social history of the Netherlands through the lens of a cultural icon.
Jane Thomas

The best Brussels neighbourhood

Ixelles in Brussels. Photograph: Bildarchiv Monheim GmbH/Alamy

Ixelles in Brussels has everything that makes a neighbourhood fun: characterful backstreets to wander through; friendly bars; multicultural restaurants; plentiful green space; and interesting architecture from many periods including the newly restored, art nouveau Maison Hannon. But better than all this, it is a genuine community where people look out for each other and are welcoming to visitors. I am looking forward to visiting next year for the long-awaited reopening of the Ixelles Museum (currently scheduled for 19 March 2027). It’s worth a detour.
Noelle

Culture and leafy walks in Cologne

Salon Schmitz in the Belgian quarter. Photograph: mauritius images GmbH/Alamy

Away from Cologne’s soaring Dom cathedral, the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian quarter) is an oasis of leafy streets and parks, just a short walk from the majestic Rhine. Stroll along avenues lined with art nouveau mansion blocks, pick up an art book at one of the many independent design boutiques, including Siebter Himmel, browse unique finds at vintage store Sevenues and eat vegetarian plates at the uber-cool Hallmackenreuther on Brüsseler Platz. In summer months, locals pack out bars along Aachener Straße for kölsch beer and cocktails, and in winter the Stadtgarten hosts an alternative arts Christmas fair, while park venue Jaki stages experimental theatre and club nights.
Sophie

Winning tip: like being in a Strindberg play, Stockholm

Cafes in Rörstrandsgatan, Birkastan. Photograph: Michael Brooks/Alamy

Away from the centre of Stockholm where cruise ships drop large groups of passengers, try a stroll around the lovely area of Birkastan. I got off at the Sankt Eriksplan metro and immediately felt as if I was in an early 20th-century August Strindberg play as I explored cobbled streets with wooden houses and churches everywhere I turned. It’s a peaceful place where fika breaks (coffee and cakes) last longer and locals threw welcoming smiles at me as I browsed vintage clothes and record shops. The Rörstrandsgatan is its culinary centre and full of cosy cafes and cool restaurants serving cheap, filling soups with homemade bread – a perfect place to spend a winter’s day in Stockholm. Don’t miss the nearby Karlberg Palace and the wonderful walks in the area. Hire a bicycle to really get into the vibe of the district.
Helen

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Perfect Padua and a Greek theatre in Sicily: readers’ favourite places in Italy | Italy holidays

Padua – the perfect base for visiting Venice

When we visited Venice, we stayed in Padua. It’s half an hour to Venezia Mestre (Venice’s mainland suburb), trains are frequent and cheap, as long as you avoid expresses, and easy to book if you have the Trenitalia app. You’ll find accommodation and restaurants significantly cheaper if you are based in Padua and day trip into Venice, and Padua is worth exploring in its own right. There are also trains to Vicenza, Verona, Bologna and Bassano del Grappa – we found it the perfect base for a public transport trip in north-east Italy.
Fergal O’Shea

History in the mountains near Turin

The Arch of Augustus in Susa. Photograph: Jiri Hubatka/Alamy

On a recent break in Turin, we made the short hop to the mountain town of Susa. Situated in a stunning valley on the old Roman road to Gaul, Susa’s historic centre is a charming mix of medieval and Roman architecture set against classic alpine loveliness. We were astounded by the jaw-droppingly well preserved Arch of Augustus, built in the 1st century BC to demonstrate the loyalty of the local tribes to Rome. In typical Italian fashion, the modern road runs right underneath. Heading back to Turin, look out for the dramatic mountaintop abbey, the Sacra di San Michele, which was among the inspirations for Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose.
Peter

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Guardian Travel readers’ tips

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Escaping the Colosseum crowds in Rome

Casina del Salvi. Photograph: Fabrizio Troiani/Alamy

In Rome, take Metro Line C to the Colosseo/Fori Imperiali station, which doubles as a subterranean museum, showcasing ancient lead pipes and original Roman saunas for just a €1.50 fare. Afterwards, escape the Colosseum frenzy at the nearby Casina del Salvi. This hidden gem on the edge of Parco archeologico del Celio offers a stunning and tranquil sun terrace overlooking the Colosseum. It’s the perfect spot for an espresso or a sandwich, providing a peaceful, panoramic sanctuary just steps from the tourist trail. A true local secret for the price of a coffee.
Alice

Exploring the Cinque Terre by bicycle

A cycle path in Liguria. Photograph: Giovanni Saini/Alamy

The villages of the Cinque Terre are very popular – perhaps too popular? I suggest a stay in Levanto. You can easily do a train trip to the famous five towns, but I recommend hiring bikes in Levanto. Then you can cycle along resurfaced old train routes, called the Maremonti path, for about two miles, delightfully shaded from the sun, to Bonnasola. You can stop en route at beaches only accessible by foot or bike. Then cycle on to Framura and have a gorgeous lunch at the tiny harbour, where it’s also OK to swim. The joy is that it’s not only beautiful but quiet too. A real treat. I’ve cycled this path with a baby and a teen.
Kate

Sea kayaking off Sicily

Rocks off Vulcano island. Photograph: Irina Fischer/Alamy

The island of Vulcano lies in the Aeolian archipelago off the coast of Sicily. We were there for a kayak trip in the safe hands of our friendly guide Eugenio. He knows every little stone of the sea stacks, arches, coves and caves along the rugged coast. We played in the swells on the cobalt sea and dipped our toes in the fumaroles rising up on a volcanic black sand beach. One highlight was Eugenio’s abundant home-cooked lunch, which he had stowed on his kayak, including biscotti dipped in local malvasia wine – a well-deserved reward after a morning’s paddle. We went with Sicily in Kayak, which operates excursions from half a day to six days, some including hiking and snorkelling.
Phil Davis

Riviera vibes on the Adriatic

Grottammare beach. Photograph: Alamy

On Italy’s Adriatic coast in the Marche region, Grottammare has beaches that stretch the length of the town and beyond. The palm-lined lungomare promenade, dotted with bars and restaurants, has a classic Riviera vibe. In Grottammare Alta old town, the honey-coloured stone and medieval alleys packed with colourful plant pots explain why the place is listed as one of the borghi più belli d’Italia – the most beautiful villages in the country. From the Piazza Peretti’s loggia, there are incredible views across the town to the sea. Hop on a train to explore larger towns like Ascoli, Piceno and Pesaro, or simply enjoy Grottammare’s relaxed atmosphere.
Deborah

A peaceful archaeological park in Sicily

The third century BC Greek theatre of Akrai, near Syracuse. Photograph: Robert Harding/Alamy

Syracuse has an amazing amphitheatre. However, the highlight of our trip to the area was Akrai archaeological park about 45 minutes inland. It is on a smaller scale, but has an amphitheatre and catacombs around which we could wander freely. As it’s off the beaten track, it has few visitors, making it a beautifully calm place away from the larger crowds in the city. The nearby village of Palazzolo Acreide is also worth a wander and has delicious lunch options.
Dawn

Another side to Florence

The River Arno in Florence. Photograph: Kevin Britland/Alamy

There’s a different side to Florence in the summer, if you know where to look. Follow the banks of the River Arno east beyond the centre and you’ll come across a real slice of local life. Nestled among the trees, pop-up bars and food stalls appear, often with live music. This is where the city’s residents come to socialise at the end of the day. It’s relaxed, informal and a mix of generations. Start near the Ponte San Niccolò, then walk east towards Lungarno del Tempio. Grab a drink, stop for a pizza and hang out like a local. After a day’s sightseeing, it’s the best area of the city to unwind in.
Paul

A fascinating 1930s villa in Milan

Villa Necchi Campiglio. Photograph: mauritius images GmbH/Alamy

Italy is mostly associated with ancient architecture, but the high point of our recent trip to Milan was the 1930s Villa Necchi Campiglio. The Italian rationalist villa is a fascinating mix of elegant, spacious modernism and more elaborate 18th-century styled rooms – two radically different architects were employed at separate stages. The villa also boasts Milan’s first private swimming pool. Film buffs may recognise the house from Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love or Ridley Scott’s House of Gucci, yet it remains under the radar – my wife’s Milan-born cousin had never heard of it. What a pleasure then to introduce him to one of the city’s most striking hidden gems.
David M

Winning tip: a brutalist masterpiece in Trieste

Inside the Temple of Monte Grisa. Photograph: Stephen Bisgrove/Alamy

On a walking tour of Trieste, I spotted a curious building high up in the distance – the Temple of Monte Grisa, a brutalist masterpiece of a cathedral on the edge of the Karst plateau. It is accessible via a steep hike (or bus) through the village of Prosecco, during which you are treated to a magnificent view of the Gulf of Trieste. Inside, the architecture is breathtaking – a repeating M-shaped pattern of concrete and gigantic modernist representations of the Virgin Mary and baby Jesus. Go on a sunny day to make the most of the shadows and light.
Richard

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Dodgers Dugout: Readers show their love for Charley Steiner

Hi, and welcome to another edition of Dodgers Dugout. My name is Houston Mitchell, and the Dodgers keep rolling. When will the first bad stretch of games begin?

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Last week, I asked you to show some support for Dodgers broadcaster Charley Steiner, who battled cancer and has been heard infrequently on broadcasts since 2024.

And boy did you respond. We received over 1,000 emails from people who wanted to pass along best wishes. Obviously, we can’t run all 1,000 emails, but here are a selected few.

John Peterson of Pleasant Hill: I had the great fortune of meeting Charley Steiner in Las Vegas in the early ‘90s. At the time, I was an assistant athletic director at UNLV, and our men’s basketball team had played in three Final Fours (1987, 1990, 1991), so tickets to home games were super scarce in those days. Charley was in town to call a boxing match for ESPN, so he and Rich Rose, former president of Caesars World Sports, were desperate enough to sit in my staff seats (at least they weren’t in the balcony!). I was in total awe of those two giants of the sports entertainment landscape. We even took a photo together. I was already a huge Charley Steiner fan, but after meeting him in person, I became a fanboy for life, so when he became a Dodger announcer, I was over the moon. I will always remember how gracious he was — like any other fan who wanted to see for himself what all the fuss was about the Runnin’ Rebels. Have cherished the memory ever since.

Tara Elkinton: My husband and I are huge Dodger fans and it’s been said I Bleed Blue. We always enjoyed listening to Charley and Rick. Charley’s commentary was always honest, interesting, personal and made you feel like you were at the game. We love and miss him.

Steven Booth: Charley, thank you for bringing peace, love and happiness into our lives. Hearing you call games is like having a coffee or beer with your friend at the ballpark. We love you and are praying for you.

Darin Axel-Adams of Pendleton, Ind.: I was a teenager when he started at ESPN and always enjoyed watching him on SportsCenter. I was a budding high school radio broadcaster and Charley was one of the ESPN anchors I attempted (not very successfully!) to mimic. I also thought he had some of the funniest “This is SportsCenter” promos … it was pretty obvious that he didn’t take himself or his profession too seriously. Living in the Midwest, I haven’t been able to enjoy much of Charley’s time with the Dodgers, but when I do, I am reminded again of what a truly gifted broadcaster he is!

Kim Haack: My father was a Dodger fan for more than 50 years. He is the reason I’m a Dodger fan today. He died three weeks before the Dodgers won the World Series in 2020. We often listened to the radio in the car and enjoyed listening to Charley and Mo. The radio call from Charley at Game 6 of the 2020 World Series when the Dodgers won was absolutely amazing. Of course, I was sobbing when they won, thinking of my father. It was a balm to hear Charley’s familiar voice and I think he spoke for all of us when he said, “In a year like no other, when joy has been so hard to come by, tonight tears of joy, let ‘em flow …” Charley’s call of that game is something I will never forget for the rest of my life. Whenever I see that clip and hear Charley’s voice, I tear up remembering how much I appreciated his familiar voice when facing a bittersweet time in my life.

Kirk Stitt: Charley, I’m a 76-year-old Dodger fan since 1958. I know you value your privacy, I get that. You need to know that thousands of Dodgers fans everywhere are thinking of you and wishing you the best and hoping to hear you.

Donald Golightly of Russell, Ky.: Being an old Brooklyn Dodger fan myself, I can relate to Charley. While I don’t feel the connection to the new Dodgers, in recent years I really enjoyed listening to Charley and Rick on the internet. So here’s wishing Charley the best now and always! Keep your head up and keep smiling!

Philip Nelson: The absolute best ESPN SportsCenter commercial is the Y2K commercial. Near the end Steiner is wearing his tie around his head like a bandana. War paint as if he is in The Lord of the Flies and says, “Follow me. Follow me to freedom!” (Note: You can watch that commercial here.)

Jim Carlisle: I have “followed you to freedom” for years and have greatly appreciated your integrity, personality, accuracy and humor on the air. It was so great to hear you on the air on opening day with Rick Monday. It was like having a reunion with an old friend. I’m hoping you’ll be able to return to the booth whenever you feel up to it. You have many fans who are hoping the same thing.

Stephen Knight: I’ve enjoyed your calls since, like, forever. As a cancer survivor myself with what I like to call unremission, the choice of how you deal with it is a personal one and is yours, and your family’s. And I just want to thank you for putting me inside the park for all of those Dodger games. You made me feel so alive, so connected with each call of every strike, ball, hit or miss.

Jimie Murray of Redondo Beach: One of my favorite memories was a totally random call about 10 years ago. A Dodgers runner slid into second base head first and got up after time was called to shake his belt and pants. Charley said, (Runner) is getting the dirt out of all the places dirt shouldn’t be.” It just made me laugh and now any time a player slides head first, I repeat it for my wife.

Tom Schulz: I’ve always been a Dodger fan, initially (and continuing so) because of Jackie Robinson. But I really became a fan in 2020 while living in Arkansas (now thankfully in California), and Charley and Rick helped me preserve my sanity during COVID. In the midst of that bizarre and unsettling year, Charley and Rick were voices of normalcy. Since then, I have caught at least part of every Dodgers radio broadcast. Charley and Rick became my friends.

Eliza Rubenstein: I’m a third-generation Cardinals fan living in SoCal, and it takes a LOT to get me to say nice things about the Dodgers. But I spent years listening to Dodger games on the radio in large part because I found Charley Steiner to be so completely and consistently delightful. His intelligence, his dry wit, his charming habit of saying “he’s been struck out” rather than “he struck out” … his rhythm and diction and humor have always spoken directly to my baseball-obsessed heart, and considering that I grew up with Jack Buck in my ear and high standards in my soul, that’s saying a lot.

Nancy Shattuck: Thank you for voicing joy and Dodger blue to this grateful fan.

Lydia Valenzuela: You’ve been missed. It was so nice to hear you on opening day. I’m sure I speak for all the fans when I say we can’t wait until you’re back again on the radio. I love to hear the banter between you and Rick. You both always bring a smile to my face. That warm soothing voice of yours is missed. Hope to hear from you again soon.

Howard Hancock: Thank you for being such a terrific part of my sports enjoyment for so many years. I greatly hope to hear you call many more innings in the future.

Scott Snyder: You have been the most underrated voice in my 55 years of loving baseball. Best of wishes to you.

Linda Seidman: We fans miss you and your calling the games so very much! Nobody calls a game like you, especially the home runs. The games just aren’t as good or as fun or as exciting without your calls, so please get back in the booth whenever you can!

Larry Oppenheim: What I love most about Charley Steiner is the sheer joy he brings to announcing the Dodgers. And his joy is contagious. A friend and I would text back and forth while listening to Dodgers games. I would say ‘did you hear what Charley just said’ and I would write it down in my text. Thankfully, I found these messages. Delving into my old text messages has brought back so many joyful memories. Charley, I miss you terribly.

Samuel Contreras of Chino Hills: Charley, we haven’t forgotten you at all. Dodger fans miss you and look forward to your return to the broadcast booth on a regular basis. My family’s life has been affected by multiple myeloma as my wife was diagnosed in October 2024. Thankfully, she’s doing well and I wish the same for you. Please know that Dodger broadcasts are not the same without you.

Keith Putirka: Charley Steiner is one of my all-time favorite baseball announcers and when I heard he was headed to L.A. to cover the Dodgers, I was thrilled. I grew up listening to Vin Scully and was clearly very spoiled. Until I moved to New York in the early 1990s, I had no idea how much of a gap there was between Vin and everyone else. But I still loved listening to baseball games, especially on ESPN, and I first heard Charley on the radio when he called the 1997 World Series on ESPN radio. He was terrific. He made the games come to life, conveying the environment, the stories and the excitement, in his own inimitable style. After that, I would always tune in to any ESPN-broadcast game so that I could hear Charley Steiner call the games. I’m 63 and I’ve been listening to and watching baseball for a very long time. Growing up in L.A. I heard a lot of great announcers, but my list for the top three announcers in baseball is an easy choice; it is in order, Vin Scully, Charley Steiner and Jon Miller. Thank you, Mr. Steiner, for making a great sport even greater to listen to.

Hoyt Adams: I used to work at the Genius Bar at the Apple Store in Santa Monica, and one day I helped Charley. He was so easygoing, funny and genuinely delighted to talk baseball with a stranger who was helping him with his computer.

When I told him the hard drive on his laptop was failing, he said in that wonderful radio voice, “So that’s your story and you’re sticking to it.” But he immediately lit up when we started talking baseball again. For one reason or another, I brought up how much I loved players like Jamey Carroll, who was getting a lot of time at shortstop that season. When I was driving home from work that night, I turned on the game, and Jamey Carroll just so happened to be having a killer night. Charley talked about him and even mentioned several beats from our conversation — it absolutely made my season.

Patrick Hennes of Corona: I have “worshipped” Vin Scully since I was one of millions of young fans that had my transistor radio under my pillow listening to my Dodgers, beginning in the early 1960s. No one could ever be better. But for this one night, I think Charley surpassed the GOAT. It’s always a good time to go back to this incredible game, when the Dodgers hit four straight home runs in the bottom of the ninth to tie San Diego. And to appreciate Charley Steiner as a fantastic announcer. (Note: You can watch and listen here.)

George Martin of Virginia: Listening to Charley Steiner call a game is like a warm blanket on a cold and rainy day. Whatever your troubles, hearing him brings security, relief and joy.

Jason Hashmi: The line, “we’ll find out together” is the classic Steiner phrase for me. Will Freeman’s ankle heal in time for the World Series and will he be a liability on the bases if he does return? “We’ll find out together.” I’ve adopted the phrase myself, and often for things unrelated to baseball. I always give a wink to Steiner in my mind when I do. I wish him health and peace.

Kathy Pratt: In 2014 my husband and I drove up from Tucson to see a spring training game. As we were walking into Camelback Ranch Stadium we looked up and there was Charley Steiner. My husband asked if he could take a picture of him and his wife. Charlie’s reply was, “I always love to have my picture taken with a beautiful woman!” Charley’s kindness was so appreciated and it made our day.

Candi Hersch: I miss hearing you on the radio. You are much younger than my father, but listening to the game with you is like hanging out with my dear departed dad. It’s comforting and you always have great insight.

Doug Weber of Carlsbad: For every note you receive, please know that there are thousands more who wish you all the best. Thank you for everything and we’ll look forward to hearing from you soon.

Bill Walsh of Oceanside: I miss Charley’s voice on the radio. While working I always had the Dodger radio broadcasts playing behind my desk. Charley and Rick became my daily companions. I miss you greatly Charley.

Andrew Mounts of Clovis: You’re part of this wonderful thing we call the Dodger family. Your enthusiasm and love for this crazy game and the Dodgers is greatly appreciated and very sorely missed. Never forget your voice paints a picture of this game that we love so much. You and Mo put us in the ballpark when we couldn’t be there. Thank you so very much. Get well Dodger friend and may God bless you and your family.

Geoff King of Bakersfield: The Dodgers have been blessed with the best radio and TV broadcast personalities ever, with Vin Scully at the top of the list. But Charley was a great addition to the Dodger broadcast crew years ago. His demeanor, stories and mannerisms calling the game were like Scully. We went several years without TV because of the Direct TV dispute so we would listen to the games on the radio. Charley was a lifesaver of Dodger baseball for us.

Rich Mortimer: My family and I have enjoyed your Dodger coverage for many years. I am 73 and have been a Dodger fan my whole life and Charley’s reporting has made our viewing and listening so much more enjoyable. Thank you Charley. Please know that there are thousands of Dodger fans, Charley Steiner fans, who are praying for your recovery.

John Sotos of Leesburg, Va.: I have always been a Charley Steiner fan, from his days at ESPN to his time broadcasting Dodgers games. That ESPN commercial — no, not “follow me to freedom!” — but the one in which he has to hide under his desk while an angry Evander Holyfield, having been told that Charley disparaged his boxing, prowls the ESPN spaces shouting “Charley Steiner! Come out and get your whoopin’!” Still one of my favorites. (Note: You can watch that ad here.)

Ohtani out of the batting lineup

Much concern was raised when Shohei Ohtani wasn’t in the hitting lineup Wednesday when he was the starting pitcher against the Mets. Nothing to worry about. Ohtani was hit in the right shoulder by a pitch Monday, and the Dodgers were just being cautious. As Maddie Lee reported:

“If it weren’t for the hit by pitch [Monday], he would’ve been DHing and pitching tonight,” Dave Roberts said before Wednesday’s game.

“Just feeling what gives him the best chance to stay loose during the outing, feel good,” Roberts said. “There’s still some soreness in there. When he’s hitting, there’s a component that he’s in the cage getting ready to hit, and if we can take that off his plate and just focus on one thing tonight, we felt — training staff, pitching coaches, myself — we just felt it was the best thing for him. So, once I told him, he completely understood.”

Up next

Friday: Dodgers (Tyler Glasnow, 1-0, 4.00 ERA) at Colorado (Ryan Feltner, 1-1, 7.30 ERA), 5:40 p.m., Sportsnet LA, AM 570, KTNQ 1020

Saturday: Dodgers (Emmet Sheehan, 2-0, 6.60 ERA) at Colorado (TBD), 5:10 p.m., Sportsnet LA, AM 570, KTNQ 1020

Sunday: Dodgers (Roki Sasaki, 0-2, 6.23 ERA) at Colorado (Michael Lorenzen, 1-2, 8.10 ERA), 12:10 p.m., Sportsnet LA, AM 570, KTNQ 1020

Monday: Dodgers (*-Justin Wrobleski, 2-0, 2.12 ERA) at Colorado (*-Jose Quintana, 0-0, 4.15 ERA), 5:40 p.m., Sportsnet LA, AM 570, KTNQ 1020

*-left-handed

And finally

Charley Steiner on the 30th anniversary of his famous Carl Lewis call. Watch and listen here.

Until next time….

Have a comment or something you’d like to see in a future Dodgers newsletter? Email me at houston.mitchell@latimes.com. To get this newsletter in your inbox, click here.

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Lochs, bothies and burial chambers: readers’ favourite trips in Scotland | Scotland holidays

Winning tip: Bothies and a fogbow in the northern Highlands

After trekking in from near Oykel Bridge, our group stayed the night at Choire Mhoir and Magoo’s bothies (conjoined Mountain Bothies Association and non-MBA bothies, both free) in the northern Highlands. Emerging from the bothies come morning, a fog hovered between the mountains leading up to the summit of Seana Bhràigh, peaking out above, and Loch a’ Choire Mhóir below. As the sun rose, the fog steadily lifted, but not before creating a magical fogbow above the loch and bothies.
Rory

Stone age on two wheels in Orkney

Standing stones of Stenness. Photograph: Barbaraaaa/Getty Images

We took our bikes on the ferry from Scrabster on the mainland to Orkney (worth the trip on its own for the views of the Old Man of Hoy) for a spin round the island to take in some of the most impressive neolithic sites in Europe. Starting in Stromness, we headed north to Skara Brae, then looped round to Kirkwall via the must-see road sign for Twatt. The next morning we spent exploring the majestic Ring of Brodgar and nearby standing stones of Stenness. The setting, where the lochs of Harray and Stenness meet, is spectacular. These neolithics clearly had an eye for the dramatic! We finished with Maeshowe burial chamber before catching the ferry back to the mainland.
Matt Lunt

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Total escape on Harris

Luskentyre beach in Harris. Photograph: Westend61/Getty Images

I had a child-free week last summer and for my first solo trip chose the Outer Hebrides. The adventure began on the ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway where I spotted minke whales and acrobatic dolphins. I stayed in one of Wigwam Holidays’ cosy shepherd’s huts on a croft in Harris, painted the colours of a Hebridean sky with rich tweed blinds and a wood-burning stove. Storm Floris hit while I was there and I had endless windy beach walks seeing otters, sea eagles, grey seals, my mind clear to write poetry and daydream. I have never struggled to return to normal life so much after a trip; a total escape.
Lynda Gairns

West coast campervan epic

Hannah on the path along Loch Morar from Morar to Port Tarbet. Photograph: Hannah

We did a campervan trip along Scotland’s west coast and ended up loving the quieter spots most. Kinlochewe, a village in Wester Ross, is stunning in good weather. I climbed 981-metre Slioch from there, which has incredible views over Loch Maree (with a bit of scrambling near the top). We then stayed near Gairloch and enjoyed the huge beaches and views out to Skye and the Outer Hebrides. My favourite stretch was near Mallaig: walking along Loch Morar to tiny Tarbet, then getting the boat back, it felt so remote. Ardnamurchan was also a highlight with Sanna beach, a quick climb up Ben Hiant on the drive over, and watching an otter one evening. Campsites were £10-£33 per night.
Hannah

Exploring Scotland’s longest peninsula

Moira’s photograph of Skipness beach on ‘wonderfully unspoilt’ Kintyre.

Last year we opted for Kintyre for our Scottish break and found it wonderfully unspoilt. As the country’s longest peninsula it has west coast island scenery all around, without the hassle of ferries. As well as the Kintyre Way coastal path, we enjoyed fish and chips at Tarbert harbour and explored the region’s whisky capital, Campbelltown. A final highlight was a peaceful picnic on Saddell Bay (location of Paul McCartney’s Mull of Kintyre music video), where Anthony Gormley’s GRIP sculpture now looks out over Kilbrannan Sound towards Arran.
Moira B

A city break in Glasgow

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Photograph: Robert Wyatt/Alamy

Arriving in the city for the first time ever at Glasgow Central, it seemed to me that’s exactly how a station should look. Off I went in search of the handsome Kelvingrove museum, Billy Connelly’s banana boots (currently at St Enoch shopping centre) and the small and thoughtful tenement house run by the National Trust for Scotland that tells the poignant story of an independent, single woman who lived there virtually all her life. Glasgow tells the history of its people as it is, and nowhere more so than the Barras flea market. The Mackintosh tea rooms proved an excellent pit stop. It’s so sad to think that Charles Rennie Macintosh died in obscurity and relative poverty at the age of 60 but his legacy is everywhere, including the Glasgow School of Art, diminished after the fire, but it will in time rise again.
Liz Owen Hernandez

Community-owned Hebridean island

Margherita climbed the hill Sgòrr an Fharaidh on Eigg to take this photograph towards Rùm. Photograph: Margherita

We spent an unforgettable week on the Isle of Eigg at Cleadale Bothy (£80 a night, two-night minimum). Cleadale is one of the most northern settlements on the island, surrounded by wild and windy beaches, views to the south of An Sgùrr (the island’s single peak) and the Mordor-esque hills of the island of Rùm, native bluebells everywhere, and screeches of manx shearwaters at night. The island, which is 12 miles off Mallaig on the mainland, is community owned and very welcoming – while we were there we were invited to a free film night. There’s a shop, a bar, a brewery, a tiny museum, and a watersport equipment and bike hire outlet (no cars can be brought on to the island by visitors).
Margherita

Rewilded Southern Uplands

Forest regeneration in Carrifran. Photograph: Nature Picture Library/Alamy

Carrifran Wildwood in the Moffat Hills is a landscape shaped by care and determination. Volunteers have returned native trees to the once-bare glen, and the scale of what they have achieved brought a lump to my throat when I first saw the valley open out from the viewpoint. It is a hopeful place, showing how collective effort can heal the land and create something enduring for future generations to experience. At the wood, there are paths and information boards for visitors, and nearby Moffat has independent shops, a museum and a park with a fantastic kids’ play area.
Hannah Price

Castles and lidos in Aberdeenshire

Dunnottar Castle. Photograph: Federico Rostagno/Alamy

Coastal Aberdeenshire might not be as popular as the Highlands and islands, but Stonehaven is a great place and one of my favourite Scottish seaside towns. A nice shingly beach, a (heated!) seawater lido and a fantastic seafront ice-cream shop called Aunty Betty’s are a few of the town’s attractions. But it’s nearby Dunnottar Castle that is the biggest draw for me. Views of the coastal medieval fortress are, for my money, some of the best and most dramatic in Scotland. Then there is Aberdeen, a 20-minute train ride away from Stonehaven, with its lovely art gallery and striking granite architecture. Some day, I hope to go up for Hogmanay to experience the Stonehaven fireball festival.
Emma R

Shelter from a storm on Tiree

Crossapol beach. Photograph: Wayne Hutchinson/Alamy

Camping on the island of Tiree amid Storm Dave, I needed an indoor activity to stay warm, so I went to Screen Argyll in Crossapol. This was the truest form of tourism; feeling like you’ve accidentally stumbled into someone’s living room where everyone knows everyone, and being welcomed in. As the snow storm raged outside, I laughed with 30 locals and watched a silly movie, for the price of a pint down south (£7.50). My outdoor adventures were cut short, but it meant I had the best evening of the trip.
Calum

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